Cartago/San José, Wednesday

Wed 29th 1914 In room at hotel. Fairly successful day of touristing, I think.

Got up 0705 despite not really wanting to. Got the 0805 train from Estacion Cartago, bought ticket from window but I also saw some people buying on train so obviously no big deal. No one standing IIRC. I was not carrying a bag and having checked weather forecast and seeing SJ still warmish (UK summer type temps, I think) I was wearing the black RS top (ie thin), and in the early morning chill I was a *tiny* bit cold on walk over to station from accom and in the aircon (I think) on train. Nothing terrible.

Emerged from Estacion Atlantico in San Jose and... was instantly not engulfed in a swarming horde of poverty and/or drug addled locals out to mug me. I had somehow (vague impression from guidebook, the Canadian father - who has travelled quite extensively over the years - saying SJ was "organised chaos" , probably a lot of my own imagination too) expected something like Main Bazar Road in Delhi. Instead the area round the station had a handful of pedestrians around, all non-threatening, and the street was clean and there wasn't much traffic.

I started walking and just kept going as I felt vaguely on edge and didn't like to stop and take photos, but really it was all fine. I sort of did a vague zig-zag all the way west along Av 3 (oh yes, SJ has *street signs*, so I didn't have to advertise my tourist status by peering at phone and whinging about GPS not syncing) to maybe Calle 2ish, then a block south, then back east to C17ish, etc. I didn't do more than about three such sweeps over the whole day and it wasn't perfectly regular, but that was the basic pattern.

Nearer the centre it was busier but not utterly hectic and almost entirely un-threatening. I (think I) avoided the iffy areas around the centre (north of mercado central?) vaguely remembered from guide book, and except for one only very slightly in my face street vendor I didn't really feel at risk at all. The streets passably clean everywhere I went, traffic not a big deal, some niceish architecture and even the more mundane architecture had quite a nice "Latin American town/city" familiarity. Lots of small sodas with very good prices, various shops, just felt like quite a nice city actually.

Obviously I was not out after dark, I didn't go to the area round the bus terminals and I didn't have to deal with any predatory taxi drivers and/or being stuck in heavy traffic with the meter ticking. But still, and maybe my very negative expectations made it feel better than it was, I was pleasantly surprised and actually quite liked what I saw. Jumping ahead, I haven't booked yet but I am thinking I will book a hostel (looked tonight and quite a few) in the centre for the two nights between Orosi and the last night of trip in Alajuela. This will allow me to see more of the tourist stuff in SJ without faffing with trains (esp an issue from Alajuela), *and* (touch wood) given that I think it would be fine walking between train station and a hostel in central area at 9am-ish as I was today, by avoiding the need to take two trains in the same day I don't have the painful rush my Orosi-C-SJ-A route would involve to get the morning trains done before they stop running or to do the whole thing in afternoon and maybe arrive in Alajuela after dark.

So I didn't really know specifically where anything was but just took what came my way on this zig-zag route. I came to mercado central and went in (not too busy, this was maybe 930ish) and wandered round and had a gallo pinto with nicely salty fried egg and the world's tiniest slice of plantain and a tortilla with black coffee at Los Gemelos 2 for 1800 (left 200 tip voluntarily), and I felt rather pleased with myself for getting food in such a "local" kind of place etc.

Then carried on walking my zig-zag, I got an empanada de carne (CRC900, served pleasingly in single-use plastic bag) at a small hole-in-wall place (both this and LG2 had other customers, so I figured quality prob OK) and ate it as I walked. Not sure if that was before or after going to post office, which I found in my walk and went in with half memories of a museum from guide book. I used their toilet for free, then paid approx 1725 to go into the museum (which I wouldn't have found if I hadn't had some idea it was there) and was given a postcard instead of a ticket which I luckily realised (and the asked to check) was actually post-paid. Guide book said entry to museum free with purchase of stamps, which sounds similar but different.

So I went round the museum - quietly enjoyable, nice to see a teletype, and I did turn the "ring handle" on one of a pair of wall-mounted old school phones and see/hear the bells on the one across the room go - and then borrowed a pen from the museum entry desk and wrote card to parents and (had to ask) slipped it into a wall slot rather niftily labelled "Europe/South America" (in Spanish) to presumably be delivered, probably well after I get home. It may be a bit of a gimmick, but I have to admit this "free" post-paid postcard along with admission impressed me and felt surprisingly cool.

Continued wandering, found Museo Nacional de Costa Rica and paid 6000 (USD11, so that seems about fair) to get in, breaking a 20k. In theory there were butterflies in initial bit but I didn't see any. Main museum quite cool, some of the historic exhibits of the building's history in the cell area were interesting, really did enjoy the pre-colombian stone carvings (one very nice piece with long-beaked birds that I am going to say were toucans stuck out, along with an actual genuine labelled "so now I have definitely seen on" Duquis (sp) stone sphere, although I couldn't make out the feline glyphs the label said were there), history of CR exhibits sort of interesting but descriptive texts inevitably larded with the typical academic liberal propaganda perspective which was mildly annoying. Nearly all text was bilingual, which was nice (as while reading the Spanish is good practice, in these kind of volumes of text it's nice to be able to read the English as it's faster). Garden also quite nice and although not labelled as such so they *may* be imitations etc, I think there were some more lithic spheres there, some arranged in increasing size in a line with a really tiny one at one end. Some of the spheres were notably more spherical than others, FWIW, though even the less spherical ones still quite impressive given the tools they must have been made with.

A few hidden-ish rooms with exhibits about some animals and regions of CR and the old barrack commander's house also nice enough. I hope I didn't miss anything, probably didn't. Some niceish views over adjacent plaza too, I only realised as I left at street level that the big metallic nested-sphere-ish sculpture/thing-to-sit-inside in the plaza has a lithic sphere inside.

I was a bit worried about getting stuck in a "milking it" state of mind in the museum but was mostly sensible, had a last extra look over the stone carvings before leaving and I did sit at side of garden for a few mins during my visit.

Continued my zig-zag and found large but empty restaurant Ave 2 (on Avenida 2, I think) and had very decent casado de bistec there with juice (didn't get a choice, something orange with a tang I vaguely recognised but couldn't name) for 3300, would have left a tip but they asked me for 300 in change to go with 5k note I was using and they gave me a 2k note back so didn't - also couldn't see tip jar - but it's not *expected* I guess. Could see myself going back there, as indeed to LG2, tho sure lots of other good cheap places.

I then carried on walking a smidge further from station along Av 2 before making a couple of 90 degree turns and heading back to station. I got a bit more confident about pulling out camera for quick snaps towards second half of day, but tried not to overdo it and spend ages setting up shots.

Got back to station just comfortably (tho I wasn't sure if it left 1600 or 1605 - it was the latter - so was a tiny bit edgy) in time to buy ticket from disorganised woman at counter (separate windows for Cartago and Heredia tickets!), have it checked as I went onto the platform and get onto the train a few mins before it left. Service more frequent at this point and would have been one half an hour later but since I had done my day's touristing and wanted to go to supermarket for snacks in Cartago it was good to get this one.

Busier this time, no one standing IIRC as we left Atlantico but people got on at the subsequent stops (heavily university-oriented, incidentally) and altho not rammed there were people standing. I had a seat and didn't feel need to give it up.

Back in Cartago went to supermarket, got too many snacks and some beer and came back and got into accom maybe 1730. YT+snacks, then went and collected clothes from line and had possibly-misunderstood conversation with owner woman (in Spanish - she speaks English so maybe should have tried that, I don't know how good her English is when it comes to complex stuff tho) about the fact I have two reservations and sometimes I get these "no show" e-mails from booking.com to try to head off problems (and to give her chance to ask me for full price for tonight if it's going to muck her about having to tell booking.com I did show up - she didn't ask). As I say, I am not sure she got my point but sod it, at least I tried.

Have put tomorrow's hostel coords on phones, prob going to have shower now, then maybe more snacks+YT and will have beer a bit later. Not packed yet but it isn't a hugely time-consuming job of course and tho I prob will pack tonight I could do it tomorrow morning as don't really need to be off super early, Orosi is close etc etc.

Hoped to get cheap deodorant at supermarket as the small one got at Pali a while back is empty, but Megasuper only had expensive ones. I will do without for tomorrow and maybe (with backpack not ideal) pop into Pali tomorrow morning on way to bus for one of their cheap ones or there is apparently a Pali in Orosi so may try to get one there tomorrow.

2104 OK, had shower and did soap wash of today's top and underwear in sink (which has a rotating plug!) on general "destroyer tactics" grounds (keep supplies topped up as much as possible).

Have booked a dorm bed for two nights in San Jose. Paid slightly over the odds to be near the station but it's a few dollars a night and probably worth it. I have free cancellation for a couple of days too. Could have had a private room further out but given vague security concerns in SJ and fact I am on the last bit of trip and not gagging for privacy etc didn't seem a good idea. "Costa Rica Backpackers" hostel very cheap and pretty good location and the individual USB sockets and lockers and IIRC curtains on dorms did sound nice, but I sort of get the impression it's huge and I therefore kind of feel that hurts my chances of chatting with anyone (not that it's guaranteed anywhere, or an enormous deal, but still) and it's not *quite* as close to the station as the place I have booked. I could also have had free breakfast for same money as place I've booked in broadly decent location, but given my train-oriented strategy and limited time I am prioritising being near the station to really minimise risks of stuff happening to me while I'm in transit with my backpack. If I might be staying in San Jose for 3-4 nights there'd maybe be more value in other things, but as I only have 2 nights (unless I happen to cut Orosi short using my flexible fourth night cancellation option, but I suspect I won't want to) doing it this way seems best. Ultimately a few dollars and/or a few free breakfasts aren't going to make any long term difference to my memories of the trip etc, so it doesn't really matter. Meeting people might, but that's largely down to luck and as I say the main factor there is simply feeling Backpackers is so big it may make it harder/less likely I will socialise.

Have mostly packed, will finish/check round in morning. Think I'll have beer now.

2122 Sitting on terrace outside room mostly in dark with beer. Orion low in sky (sideways on), twinkling like mad, Betelgeuse very noticeably red. Slight chill in the air - wearing orange wool top FWIW - which is borderline pleasant but not entirely. I could dig fleece out but reluctant to bother. Might not have whole beer out here, we'll see. Vaguely melancholy "last night here and trip ending" type thoughts, but broadly speaking everything is fine. Incidentally no sign of any other guests here since Canadians left.

I still have one week left and of course some people might come to CR for just two weeks and do one of the stressful itineraries in the guide book and for them a week is a long time. And I do expect to see/do some moderately cool stuff over the next week. It's just that the luxury of "yeah, what the hell, stay an extra night here" type stuff has mostly gone. I am *not* super rushed in Orosi with four nights and prob 3.5 days, but I don't really have the luxury to stay longer if I like it, unless I give up my time in SJ, etc etc.

Obviously more time in SJ might be nice etc but it's not as if I actively regret how I've spent my time. I always knew I could choose to be more aggressive and charge round a bit more and avoid rest type days etc and push myself a bit harder, but the slightly more leisurely style I've adopted (still perhaps fairly "active" by standards of some people with open-ended trips) has its advantages (just not visible in terms of "where did you go?" type conversations) and I also don't know if I'd have the stamina to keep up an aggressively touristy pace for 11 weeks (as discussed in F33W etc) - even if I had, I suspect it would have been a bit miserable.

So I'm not complaining etc, just reflecting.

While in SJ this afternoon I did maybe wonder if I ought to make an effort to travel again later in 2023, eg before Christmas. I don't have unlimited travel budget and I do quite like autumn in the UK, but at the same time while (touch wood) I'm not expecting to die or be incapacitated any time soon, I am (just like everyone else!) not getting any younger and I did miss out on my "planned" travel in 2021 and 2022 (and had my 2020 trip cut short) so I should maybe dig into my savings and try to make up for lost time a bit. Fingers crossed CV restrictions such as Nicaragua's will fade away and not be replaced by anything equally crappy.

Incidentally not heard anything from the hostel that sent me the stroppy message accusing me of lying about being there the night of my "extension" booking. I dunno whether my "I was there, talk to X" long e-mail did any good (never got an apology if it did) or not.

Check out here is 12, I dunno how frequent Orosi buses are but prob fairly frequent. Check in at new place is 1400, so there's maybe a case for leaving here 1130-12 so I get there round about check in time. OTOH the earlier I get there maybe the better my chances of a lower bunk and it also might give me a bit of extra time to wander round town and see it before maybe doing tours/buses out to nearby places on other days, and if I stay here I'm just going to be sitting in kitchen prob solo drinking coffee or in room. Gut feeling is I'll maybe aim to leave here 1030-11ish, perhaps try to be up earlier for an unhurried pack of last bits and pieces/check round and maybe some free coffee if kitchen not busy with family etc.

If memory serves, pronunciation of this place is Car-TAG-oh - it was eg announced on the train by automated system. I think I have been managing to say this correctly after initial mistakes when round San Isidro but never sure.

(Not an issue as haven't been there, but in my head I think I keep mispronouncing Heredia. Right now I can't think what's right, but just FWIW. It *may* have an accent on to clarify things, but regardless I have a feeling I've been internally mispronouncing it. A bit like "Liberia" being a minor struggle to get the emphasis in the right place.)

Just wrt hostel choice wafflings, worth noting that in Quepos the "obvious" (and eg Rosemary spoke highly of it) hostel choice would have been Wide-mouthed Frog, which I didn't stay at primarily on "it has a pool" grounds (perhaps silly, but anyway), and by chance it worked out well for me as I really felt quite at home at the hostel I actually stayed at instead and met some cool people. This sort of thing is just random, probably even super-social people have some degree of randomness there. Maybe you can give yourself the best chance by trying to pick smart (eg maybe if you're super social, a big hostel means more people so more chance to connect , but then again it takes a certain amount of time to bump into everyone and maybe even an ss person might - if they felt the need to bother - prefer somewhere smaller, and I'm *assuming* smaller is better for me and inferring on weak evidence my booked hostel is smaller than the Backpackers, but maybe I'm wrong, maybe even with only two nights there a larger crowd means more casual contacts and more chances to hit it off with someone - or maybe it would mean place is full of large pre-formed cliques - ultimately it's very difficult to know and so not worth really worrying about too much, I think vaguely choosing whatever seems best as I have is OK but definitely shouldn't get bent out of shape about it. Punctuation went all to pot in that last sentence and brackets never got closed but meh, this is all rough and ready journalling-ish stuff written on a painfulish phone keyboard and not meant to be super polished.

2152 Just ducked head and saw moon is in sky just hidden normally by terrace roof. If I'm correcting for latitude right (rotation of moon is "odd" here compared to home), I think it's first quarter.

There's a palm tree in the garden and (it fooled me this morning too) when the wind blows the leaves rustle against each other and it sounds kind of like it's raining.

2159 Incidentally the sticky camera lens cover *might* have fixed itself at some point today. Of course, it might also un-fix itself in a day or two as a bit of grit shifts around. The crack on the back screen has grown increasingly large but the screen seems unaffected and in practice it isn't an issue (the long term scratches on the front lens are the real "going to kill it" problem), I do wonder - it's been on for years and I cannot remember, maybe a search of old amazon orders would answer the question - if it has a tempered glass screen protector (as opposed to soft-ish plastic film) on and it is the screen protector which is cracking.

I am hoping most photos taken with the camera are usable but I do take (not today) some with G5 to mix things up, and even if some photos are crappy due to lens scratches and/or not quite getting lens cover open enough even with manual fiddling (as I have been doing), the photos should still be good enough (if not ideal) as memory joggers to look back on etc.

On a random note, I "should" probably speak direct to staff when I want to stay an extra night instead of going via booking.com or whatever site I booked with. However, the general "it's slightly busy and they might not have a room/bed if you leave it too late" feeling with CR argues against this to some extent. And of course (and bearing in mind I have IIRC so far only cancelled one booking, and that was because I *couldn't* extend due to booking.com weirdness) booking.com second bookings to extend sometimes come with a free cancellation option which is kind of valuable (rarely exercised, but nice to have).

2301 Bed. Not super tired but a bit and it was an earlyish start.

Had packet of Taqueritos chile toreado earlier (when got in) - nice, but perhaps Takis Fuego are nicer. TF were quite a lot more expensive in Megasuper tonight though (1400ish vs 900ish, *maybe*), and maybe I only think TF are nicer because I had them a couple of nights ago after not having this style of crisps for weeks.