Friday, 27 February 2026

Santa Cruz, Wednesday/Thursday

Tue 2128 screen has been glitching a bit. But in the browser and it is generally still much better. Fuck knows. Writing this seems fine.  I also just turned the screen sensitivity down now there is no screen protector to compensate for and maybe that needs a reset or something to kock in. Just have to wait and hope. This does still feel like it is so much better than Iit was that I cannot see how the screen protector was not the primary cause.

2136 I rebooted, it does not feel right but it does feel much better. I am half wondering if this horizontal strip 2/3 down the screen has been iffy for absolutely ages - it is sort of not always noticeable (and I may have developed odd habits because of the iffiness over last few days and longer term things to work around the screen protector) and am only noticing it now and it is exacerbated by my having lost feeling for how to use the phone because of all the recent glitxhing. I dunno. Bottom line is I suspect the phone is knackered but it may not be new and while sucky it may not be a huge deal in practice. And typing this is basically fine, or as fine as an osk get,a, but the problem is not the screen responsiveness. The number and preddictd word rows were often dead (roughly where the 2/3 down bit is) before hut now they seem to work fine despite the slightly iffy scroll and drag behaviour and the way the touch app still shows that seadness.

Anyway it is what it is, it is more usable than it was and there is a slim chance it is fine or that the remaining adhesive or whatever rubbing off over time or getting an alxogol wipe on the go would fix it EV|n if it is not fine.

But not too upset, as I say it is mostly usable at least for typing and we don't seem to be getting phantom touches in general. Bed anyway.

Wed 0842 as now usual didn't sleep that great but not terribly. Eyes feel a bit bleary. Typing this on p7 osk and it feels fine, I suspect somehow the Deadish strip across the screen is real but mostly manifests itself in slightly shitty and 80% unnoticeable ways during some Swiprs and scrolls and I continue to suspec tit has been there for months and was (and is) not quite bad enough to really be sure it existed and wasn't just general shittiness of design or the screen protector wearing sensitivity generally. This does raise the annoying spectre the problem justnight have been there long enough that it could have been claimed under the 12 month refurb warranty but maybe not and in any case I missed it. Lesson there is perhaps just to play with a touch detector app intermittently or if things feel a bit off as a sanity check.

While sucky the keyboard is totaly usable (as much as an osk ever is) although it is possible the glitchiness would kill swipe typing, which I don't use but maybe would as maybe this glitch was what was killing it when I tried it but I haven't experimented just now and this is borderline ok.

The now known glitch is annoying and mainly manifests when swiping between home and app overview and app list but while slightly shitty I suspect I will rapidly train myself to swipe on the bits of the screen that do work and almost stop noticing this. I am not exactly happy but by the same token the phone is legit 95% usable for stuff like blog writing etc and photography and to repeat I am not happy and not claiming otherwise but although well see how things go over the next few days and weeks I suspect this is a fault at the level of mild annoyance which I can live with without feeling comellled to buy a replacement or risk repair bills or hone surgery on without it being a massive "why the fuck do I put IP with this" level of crap.

I am vaguely nervy about the lesson but not too bad. It does feel like a lot of money and it also feels like a slightly waate of time to have been hanging around here for it but really a) this is exactly why I like having long ish if not epic trips, so as not to be at the mercy of random no ones fault glitches b) worthwhile r potentially worthwhile things are worth waiting and paying for as appropriate in moderation C) I did in fact have a half decent if low key day yesterday and it has eg opened up the possibility of a low key but to someone with my 10 mins of cumulative experience potentially both fun and long term beneficial kayaking experience.

But let's get dressed and have breakfast, probably at the hostel.

0917 at breakfast quite a few people about (oh and Noam outside room on terrace, had quick chat), antipodean woman waved at me she seems to be brrakfastinf with some blokes and there are three to four possible Germans (three guys and a woman in a hammock), I did speak to two German guys briefly yesterday on returning to dorm and possibly part of this group. Ordered gallo pinto, hostel guy asked me if they could clean my room and I said yes and mangled the Spanish really badly  there are some socks and uw hanging over the shower rail but they are mostly dry and I honestly can't see them getting upset. (Actually looks like the hammock woman at least somewhat knows the antipodean woman and or her friend, rather than being part of the group with the three probably German guys.)

As if any of these details matter but I am also trying to keep some sort of eye on general social dynamics for educational/confidence building type purposes.

Ftr on a practical point I noticed Noam had a coffer and asked if he made it himself, he said you can ask for hot water, but I think that is about it. I asked and the cup is his own, so in practice I will not be making ny own coffee, I am not desperate but wouldn't be averse to buying some instant but I don't have a cup and don't really want to start lugging one round with me (and even the most compact lightweight clever yravel version bought in advance of a trip but be very unlikely to justify itself in general, even right now the idea is no more than an "it would be slightly nice to be able to make my own coffee")

Oh and btw during brief chat yesterday antipodean woman said she had done the volcano top camping at La Union and she also said there is a restaurant etc and it sounds cool and not too scary (she also drove up there, the road sounds very much like a shorter version of that one on the Boquete volcano) and I do fairly strongly intend to look onto this when I pass back through la union now someone else has turned me about jt. She didn't see a lit of soldiers up there though, just fwiw.

0928 just dashed back to room thinking I had left a shitty white plastic cattier bag with the 160 USD for kitsurfing lying around and the cleaner might toss it. I found it safely inside my black day-pack but I couldn't quite remember where it was and was a bit jittery. I explained to her (she had been quite reassuring about not throwing anything out) and I don't think it looked like I had been worried about her stealing it (I primarily wasn't, I suppose the risk existsed, but I was more thinking "there is USD 160 in an innocuous non transparent plastic bag maybe looking like rubbish in a pile of other bags").

I hardly need coffee now I've had my morning jolt like this.

AP woman is doing kitsurfing today based on overhearing but I think she is at least moderately experienced(ie she may be basically competent or she may be world class, but it is something she can do solo) and would just be doing it as an activity not as a lesson so I am unlikely to have to worry about her being around all day, and it is a one on one lesson anyway.

0938 breakfast as yesterday not bad. No coffee yet and I suspect they have forgotten but in many ways this is fine as it will likely be nicer to drink the coffee hot after the food. I will go chase it up in a minute or two. I nearly asked about it when the guy brought food and then a minute or two later the knife and fork but didn't want to appear over demanding or impatient.

I think the three German guys have a big 4wd thing, I noticed yesterday a sign in window saying "fake taxi, 3 bros no hos" made out of cardboard.

I have noticed today is 25th 5x5 which may if I feel superstitious be a promising coincidence for first lesson.

Probably already said but if as the syllabus leads me to expect there will be no actual water contact today, that means the scope for absolutely hating it is limited - yes I may despise the instructor or whatever but probably won't, I may find the concepts of wind and kite beyond me (but fingers crossed this is fine) etc, but what it was thinking might make me say "omfg never again" was some sensation (making this up as I obviously have no idea what it is really like either as a complete beginner or a skilled kitesurfrr)  of smashing into the water or feeling like I am drowning despite the life jacket because of lack of breath or whatever. I don't strongly anticipate these happening but they (or some analogus awfulness) clearly could, which is why I've been saying it will probably be at least three days but may not if something really bad shows up. But if the first day has no water contact, it feels like most of this potentially interest killing stuff won't come up until day two anyway.
 
1010 if I didn't say yesterday, by walking down to that cafe on the shore near La Serenita, I did effectively walk across the neck of the island (the narrow bit between the two volcano lobes), given I was at santa cruz beach that morning. And I did touch the water at the cafe beach fwiw.

Feel slightly lonely sitting here on own but also really don't want to talk to anyone ahead of lesson.

1032 back in room. Had chat with couple of hostel guys when paid for breakfast. Sunset at el pital is supposed to be good, also playa mango (but that is even further than I walked yesterday down towards merida), also el defin (azul?) In balgue. I asked about safety, guy said it is safe to walk at any time but I clarified I meant dogs not people and he said it would probably be fine, carrying a torch helps and that is also good so traffic aees you (and indeed as prob noted I did this on my walk over to local beach last night). I may or may not so this but I might. I did ask about taxis and he said there aren't many. Still while not perfect my spabish wasn't too bad here and it is all practice.

The right ball of foot big toe think yesterday which I forgot to mention seems to have been an improbably tiny amount of sand under the insole of the shoe.  I still hurts a little but very much less and that may be the aftermath.

1113 mostly ready to go out. For the record my left foot heel feels a bit odd (probably just all the walking) and my left knee feels very slightly sort of "twisted", without me having done any unusual exercise or activities. Bit nervous but not massively so. Just need to try to keep a positive attitude and do my best to actually learn stuff instead of feeling shit about not knowing how to do it. There is no fundamental reason I shouldn't be able to learn this stuff of course, which also isn't to say it will be easy.

1536 back. That was actually pretty good. I have booked another class probably early tomorrow as wind is dying early tonorrow, fingers crossed. I checked booking and it looks like the private room here is 25 USD tonorrow even with the genius diacount but I don't believe they are seriously busy and I went and asked at reception with a 20 in my hand (minor psychological ploy on offchance it is helpful) and asked and (as usual) the guy phoned someone and they said yes and no price was mentioned so I just assumed it was the usual 19 and that's what I paid.

I could and might move hostel and or move into a dorm here but while I am cost sensitive this is all relatively minor and tbh it feels better to avoid psychological or practical disruption (especially if the lesson tonorrow is very early) by doing so.

Gonna loosely sort stuff out and (definitely not kayaking today, I realised prob this morning that by time lesson was over it would be rushed) go get probably more sunblock and have a beer from ocean market on the beach and then some food.

1643 not had food yet unlss you count 400g of plantain crisps on beach. I have come back to hostel to sit on terrace with a 600ml coke zero, Noam is in hammock and two girls are chatting, I do wonder if one is the antipodean but not 100% sure. I said hey and feel a bit BNM but at least I am neither hiding away nor forcing myself in.

I am dithering but I may go to el pital for sunset in about half an hour. It is about half an hours walk and slightly edgy about getting back (but on that balgue road not too worried and it may be pricey or just not let me in but we will see what happens. Tbh I always wonder if I need to eat in a comedor before but I also suspect I could eat something at one of the conedors like restaurant relax fairly easily as late as 8pm or whatever, it isn't like I will be utterly out of options.

I don't necessarily intend to write the kite surfing lesson up in massive details, I might save the syllabus off the site for reference. Instructor was a tall dutch guy called rudi who was heavily tattooed and probably about late 20s but was actually really nice guy.

We did as expected do a bit of stuff on beach and I felt a bit awkward but not too bad but we then did go into the water (just not with a board) to do the kite flying practice. I was getting quite knocked around by the waves and at times later on eg was actually managing to fly the kite while getting knocked off my feet and sort of floating intermittently. I asked and this is normal, not just because I am too short.

On the whole I don't think I did too badly, not amazingly but not too bad at all.

There was a dead turtle on the beach which I almost trod on when coming back from my beach site just now. It was about two size 9  shoeblong.

The two girls and the antipodean girls gay friend are having a mildly stupid conversation about dating and what is attractive but it isn't actually too annoying but also it makes me feel better about not being in the conversation as it feels more group of mates.

While not super  helpful it is interesting to hear her saying stiff like this guy was so hot with his perm but without his perm he was ugly. The idea that that might make so much of a difference is kind of odd. Not that I take it too seriously but still. (X was hot but had a shit personality or was so boring is not new and makes sense. But somehow this relatively minor personal appearance tweak tipping things completely feels odd.)

1 737 at el pital on niceiah table on over water platform. Ordered a kombucha which is in menu u for 100, actually costs 150 (I queried this politely and was told it now comes in a bottle!?) And has tax on top making it 165. But wth. Quite a nice area and borderline affordable and cool to have come etc and maybe a way to mark the special ish day (first lesson).

Far from sure p7 is good but it is borderline usable and can't do anything and need to avoid committing foolish economies on basis of this.

Ditto actually he private room and my mullings re what to do if I couldn't eztent at 19 USD. Yes there are valid considerations of economy and social stuff about dorma and different hostels but for the sake of a few dollars a day over a few days it is silly to rock the mental and practical boat when I am spending all this money on the kite surf lessons.

The straw is a hollowed out green plant stem which is kind of cool but I'd rather it were cheaper. :-)

The chat group on balcony left just before I intended to head over here so no issues here. I don't feel I did anything wrong or shy there.

Although it was mostly action and getting pounded by waves etc, the lesson did have brief lulls when I noticed there were two fucking volcano (one, the one I can see from hostel balcony, a touch more iconmically volcano shaped than the other) on opposite sides of horizon and it did feel a pretty fucking cool place to be having a lesson. I  think I said but they gave me a very loose hooded (didn't have hood up) lyrcra long sleeve top to wear so o didn't need to wear my red tshirt  or waste sunblock on my arms (though I had). I was soaked but I wasn't really noticeable significantly cold despite maybe 2h in the water.

The place eis slightly fancy and the prices a slight piss take but not as bad as I expected and they do have a sign for "jungle dorms" and I think it is a hostel, albeit a perhaps pricey one, and while I probably have other things to try first (and therefore not neck doing it on this visit) it is vaguely possible the slightly higher pricing (I assume) might skew the xliebtele slightly older than in other dorms, but pure guesswork.

The usual disclaimer type stiff to sign before the lesson gave me slight pause as well as it saying kitsurfing was an extreme sport. Maybe it is. But it feels to me like an extreme sport is something like base jumping or parkour or xliff diving. Like I am sure you can get hurt kite surfing especially if you ate an expert/pro and pushing yourself, but it does feel like things of different types are being limped into the same classification. I obviously don't know.I don't feel this is to flatter the xliebtele, not in the waiver. It did have something about "I am an open water swimmer" which makes me think of 4 miles swims in reservoirs with a buoy tied to your ankle, bug I really wasn't and aren't worried in pracite here - as I discussed with that woman the other day (who did remember me when I saw her today) the realistic case here is you are wearing a life jacket thing (whatever the technical term is - and I was floating up the huge eaves and off my feet at times) and it's a few hundred metres offshore with the wind at your back.

Incidentally a random query about something else yesterday suggests there are technically bull shakrs in the lake but the last attack was in 1940 and they have been overfished massively and you would almost count yourself lucky to see one.  No one even mentioned this at the kite surf place. I suspect they like deep water anyway.

About half the tables here are empty. So I am not going to feel guilty occupying space and just having a kombucha. I am a smidge worried about the walk back and getting food but neither need be a major deal and I may have a coffee or something before I go, we will see.

1757 ftr the photo I just took looks insanely more orange on phone than real life. The actual sky is very pale blue with greyish clouds which practically hide the volcano almost completely.  The lit from below loose clouds were orsngey earlier but they are not now.

1821 actually mildly cold in all the wind. I think the volcano is the hill on the right not the one of the left. Doh. No harm done, hard to tell with the cloud but also kind of obvious in hindsight

1825 going to go. Finished drink a while ago, no one is hassling me, but the sky is going to just get darker and we already have volcano and cloud silhouettes with no detail and I don't think it is that different now to what have seen previous nights and I do have the walk home.

Fairly cool to have been here all the same and depending on length of stay may come back another day.

1857 at Maria's for food. Surprising number of people seem to be here in a hostel quality, she seems very interesting and a character and probably quite nice but it would make me nervous she remembered me though and said my sslad like yesterday when I asked

Walk back fine, used phone as torch and certainly helpful in simple steetches (and to make myself visible to traffic) but not absolutely essential  shocked and impressed  by a big toad (?)  Hopping in the dark side road up from el what's it to the main road. Must be the life version of those I have seen squ@hed by the main road.

Will probably go get beer at local mini market and have it (sllo or otherwise) on terrace outside room after this then an earlyish bed.

1930 back at hostel, solo on terrace with a beer a few people hanging round in main xommon area and I accidentally seemed to say hola to one of them when I was actually acknowledging the dog I was citting past and the guy replied, but I think they were like a group of friends and it would have been inappropriate for me to try to join them and I suppose in theory I could have sat at another table out there but I hasn't been intending to so out of inertia if nothing else I didn't.

Genuinely surprised how many people seem to be staying at Maria's as guests.

Actually you know if may go have my beer on that main terrace. I just came back to drop something off  right? I don't expect chat but as an experiment and not being intimidated etc.

1934 I queried surf lesson time as hadn't heard anything and they said 9am. Fingers crossed that does give time for a 3h lesson but anyway while slightly early not absolutely insane, I may even have time to have breakfast a thousand, I'd not I have some rather smashed up by now raisin bread cake stuff.

2108 back in room. I asked and breakfast starts at 7 so if I want to I can eat before the lesson.

I think I will do a quick wash of two tops, have a shower and maybe a shave and then go to bed.

2114 oh, I took a bad photo of it, but with the A06, I don't know if it'll come out, but on the walk over to the school this morning I did see a price list in the sort of blackboard of the other school and they want $190 for 3 hours. It's possible that their sort of bulk packages were cheaper than the school I'm at, but basically it feels like I got cheaper the two, no idea which is best but I felt pretty satisfied today tbh. It also had something like $25 for 2 hours rental of equipment or something, so while I don't want to get ahead of myself, it does kind of feel like there's potential, you know, if I can get the basics down, that in the future this isn't such an insanely expensive activity to do intermittently, you know, when you're not paying for instruction.

I have no idea what happens if you're on your own, I mean this is one of the things I was hoping to talk to that Antipodean woman about, I haven't had the chance, because she went kitesurfing this morning based on talking to her yesterday and overhearing her at breakfast, and it's like she's with friends, but it's not particularly obvious that they're kitesurfers, so like can you do it on your own? I know the instructor today was saying in certain ways it's not good to do that, but if there's like a surf school there and you're hiring your gear, can you do it on your own and they provide sort of basic support and help you launch and stuff like that, I don't know. Anyway, just an aside.

2152 okay, done all that. There's a fairly small either spider or molted skin on the back of the door. I've taken a couple of photos. It is not green as it appears in those photos. It's a sort of dull grey black. It's not in good shape. If it's alive one, it's got five legs. I've not touched it obviously. I'm just gonna leave it there. It's fine, but just a quick note. So I've done all the stuff. I said I was going to do, you know, the laundry and everything and I think I'm more or less packed for tomorrow morning and I do feel a bit tired. Not too bad. I mean, I don't know if I'm gonna feel really beaten up tomorrow, but I mean the knee doesn't hurt like it did. That was just that random thing this morning and the foot's basically okay. So maybe I'll get a new load of aches and pains tomorrow after today's activities, but we'll see. So I'm more or less ready for tomorrow. I'll try and be up to have breakfast and we'll take it from there.

Thu 0727 didn't send this last night. Just ordered breakfast, a smidge late but I think ok. Didng sleep great but not terrible. Tiny bit nervous about class but sort of looking forward to it as well.

I did feel a bit achey about 4am but right now I am not actively aware of anything major.

P7 screen continues fucked but it is super unclear just how fucked and whether it mostly works, indeed it seems to be behaving itself now, if nay depend very precisely on the keyboard setup and height so the dodgy strip falls somewhere where it works ok by falling either side. There is also some iffiness re scrolling and dragging which affects more of the screen. Yet it is definitely better than with the screen protector in. I currently lean towards this being a relatively recent fault although who knows. I don't use the on screen keyboard that intensively when not travelling and maybe the screen protector got worse but the existing fault was there but just about tolerable and or felt like shitty design rather than a glitch for ages. Flip flopping.

It is not all that windrh right now and rather overcast, though not actively cold.

Of course I am not usually up quite this early here.

0800 back from breakfast. Did chat with antipodean woman, she said hi as I was paying for breakfast. (I do rexognise her but not confidently enough to have said anything.) Anyway I asked her about the kite surfing solo and she is on her own in that sense (no friends with her hlwho do it), she says people will generally help each other launch, sometimes there is a sort of gadget (a fake person to clip the kite onto) to help you launch yourself, and if you rent the gear they will usually include this kind of helping out in the rental. She said it is 60 dollars for 2 hours though, but still, this is potentially affordable as an intermittent holiday axfivity. And she said the last time she did it before the current 2-3 day streak was a year ago, for her it had been like riding a bike, she was a bit unsure about putting harness on at first but it came back. This is all reasonably promising and suggests things are possible and they don't refuse to let you rent if yo u are not 100% confisent and certain.

But let's get ready to go.

1826 just watching sunset on terrace (no one else here) bit heading out to dinner in a minute  will write up day later but fwiw (not that I had any reason to doubt her) the other kite school didbindeed list 65 not 25 for 2h rental on looking this morning. I dunno what the price is at my school and it may be cheaper but still this does make the actual ibstruction feel better value, albeit mixing schools so not a fair comparison I am basically paying 110 or maybe slightly less pro rate with bulk discounts for 2h ibstruction so less than twice the pure rental fee.

1835 at marias. Hey, it's my ometepe place,  they know me here.

The 5 legged or whatever spider on back of room door has gone, so it must have been live not a moult I guess.

1915 back on main terrace, Germanish group around, just having a coke zero from mini market outside hostel before going to room.

Will do write up in room using voice typing.

2009 bit of excitement. A snake a metre or two long just spotted off side of main terrace. Owner chap says not dangerous, it eats rats and stuff. I asked and he said it's a constrictor, and it is presumably not big enough to do anything to a human. Pretty cool watching it lift its head up and climb stairs etc.

But finished Coke, p7 keyboard and screen still shit and inconsistently so, but let's head back to room.

2027 found a scorpion in sink after (!) Cleaning teeth. Came out to tell staff and found them posing for photo with Germans with the snake. I did stroke it but no photo, felt very firm and cool (kind of as I would expect but still interesting). They say the scorpion might be dangerous and are going to look, not sure if they are there now or not.

2035 the two hostel chaps just came and discussed it and picked it up live in a tissue after doing something with a wooden stick. Had a bit of a chat with them, it is not lethal but would apparently have a very unpleasant sting, so I don't feel bad about getting them in to deal with it. I asked and the spiders aren't dangerous. I think I came across as reasonable and interested and not flapping., which to be fair I am not. Albeit I don't fancy a chance encounter with one of those scorpions!

2046 okay so I kind of want to go to bed but let's dictate this. So the lesson was basically okay it was emotionally a bit rocky to be honest I got a different instructor a Portuguese chap called Pietro I was a bit annoyed just at changing instructor full stop he seemed okay but I didn't feel quite as good and his sort of style was very much like not quite telling me off but it felt like that and it was I'd sort of fight down a certain amount of irritation and it didn't seem to be going all that well and it was a bit frustrating I mean it's very early days yet so don't get too worked up about it and I did kind of warm to him a bit towards the end anyway and anyway we'll see how it goes

The lesson was only two hours. I didn't query that when we were out in the water (we didn't actually do any boarding, the closest we got was a little bit of body drag which I wasn't doing very well but I did sort of kind of get it going right at the end of the lesson) so it was only two hours. I didn't query that when we were out there but when we got, I thought it might be about the weather or it might be some judgment they'd made on my competence or something. I wasn't acting upset and didn't feel that upset but when I got back I asked if I could do three hours tomorrow. Did I say weather because anyway. And they said yes but essentially it transpired that two hours is the normal and recommended amount and I'm not going to push that. It's just the way their pricing works in three hour packages and stuff confuse me a bit and the first lesson was three hours because there's a theory bit on the front. Anyway, it's fine and I think the way the pricing works is actually better than I thought and basically it's almost sort of a tiered structure and the more I pay the cheaper it gets and they just express it slightly confusingly as if you have to buy a bulk package of so many hours up front. Not that it's a huge  deal because the discounts aren't massive but anyway I paid basically $110 for the two hours today.

So I've signed up for the two hours and I have a class at 8.30 tomorrow morning and I need to be there five or ten minutes early to get ready which is fine you know I should be able to have breakfast and if I can't I've got snacks I'm not too worried it is a bit early but just give me the rest of the day free anyway let's not jump ahead one of the things I was thinking about this is that having discovered that the basic thing is two hours and it's probably not smart to try pushing that although the total sort of training budget doesn't change the time budget and the associated accommodation budget does since I'm obviously only getting two hours of time in towards whatever competence qualification level is needed you know or giving up because I've given it a fair try and it's not working I'll need to be here longer to clock up any given number of hours I reflected on this a little bit I checked on booking I thought well I'm definitely staying tonight anyway and the price was $19 effectively on booking so I went to the reception and extended it and that's no problem oh by the way I also found out from talking to that woman this morning I saw already knew this from known but it wasn't quite clear they will actually give you a cup of hot water and a spoon so on the way back from the lesson I went and bought a packet of some cappuccino type coffee sachets and I got them to give me some water and I had one of those when I got back from the lesson so that's a small saving very very tangential that

So on reflection my inclination is I don't want I need to be careful not to go sunk cost fallacy and overdo it But you know I want to give the kitesurfing a fair shot. It is kind of nice to be here It's quite nice that this little sort of goal stroke project has organically arisen out of nothing You know I've not got anything specific I need to do or want to do except la union volcano not a big deal because it's right on the way back anyway And it will only take a day or two whatever and it's not absolutely bucket list of course. so I have four weeks left well maybe not right as I write this but basically four weeks I have time I can afford time budget wise to spend another two weeks here if I want it is kind of nice I'm starting to get into it. I may change to another hostel in a dorm or a private for some sort of social experimentation But I want to get the lessons at least a bit on the way first even if I carry them on after I change I Think it's fine. I mean also to some extent if you want to look at it as like future It's like I had nothing special to do It's much better if the story (even just for myself) for this trip is "oh Yeah, that's when I spent two weeks on omatepe learning to kite surf" rather than " oh well I was doing that but it seemed to be taking a bit too long so even though I had nothing else to do I cleared off so I could vaguely bumble around Nicaragua and maybe find a nice beach somewhere or maybe have some cool stuff happen That I didn't really know what I was looking for" and actually what I don't want to walk away from something Which has sort of dropped in my lap as a thing to do and a challenge and blah blah blah

So obviously with the lesson being relatively early at nine, I got back to the hostel and I've been thinking about renting a bike, a pedal bike, so I asked at reception after I'd had my cappuccino from the hot water and they said they recommended a place around the corner, I went there and there was no one there. I wondered up and down the road a bit and I was thinking I'd maybe wander towards Balgate and see if there was anywhere, because I was sure I'd seen somewhere with an actual sign which there wasn't at the mi ranchito place that the hostel recommended. The owner sort of chap from the current surfing school drove past on a moped and pulled up and said hi to me and I thought oh I'll ask him and he said the same mi rancheeta place and as I was planning to anyhow I went back and there was a guy there and I sort of grabbed him. Long story short I paid 180 cordobus for three hours of rental, he wanted me to leave an identity document with him but I would have been reluctant, it's not like I'm hiring a quad bike or a scooter but I gave him my photo copied and rather dog-eared and delaminating mini passport copy and he took it with a bit of hesitation, he asked which hostel I was in and stuff.

The bike, not that I'm an expert, was not in super condition, it was some sort of basic mountain bike. I could not get the gears figured out and not that I'm terribly familiar with these two shifter derailleur types, but I'm not sure it was working, maybe it was. I bodged around and sort of clutched it into having a high and low and made do with that. I didn't have a helmet, didn't really want one, but I didn't have one or a puncture repair kit, not that I would have known how to use it. I basically cycled up through Balgate and just kept going and I was getting a bit knackered, but it was kind of fun and I think basically I got nearly to Potrerillos and I stopped at a mini market. It turned out I actually passed a few without noticing it, but this one was on Google Maps for some reason, so I stopped there and I bought, I was very thirsty, I'd stopped to have a bit of water on the way. I had like a 2 litre bottle of coke with sugar in and I drank about half of it there and I finished the rest off on the ride back. If there was very steep hills I got off and walked, I did do some moderate hills, bear in mind I don't know what I'm doing with the gears apart from the fitness, and I walked up more hills on the way back. I was a bit worried that I would crap out or that the bike would crap out or I wouldn't get back in time, but I think I did basically do according to organic maps, just looking at the route, 14 kilometres out and maybe that back, or maybe it's 12 kilometres out, I can't remember, I think it might be 14, but obviously you could look it on GPS route or whatever. I didn't do too badly considering obviously sweating like a bastard, I gave my trousers that I'd put on I think back last Sunday in Leon, I gave them a hand washing sink and I've switched to the laundry, the grey pair, I'll maybe keep those hand washed, is a proper washer, so I'll maybe keep those black trousers for activity for the next day or two because I'll probably hire a bike again at some point.

On a completely random note that I should have mentioned earlier, I had my prescription doggle sort of on around my neck during the kitesurfing today but I didn't actually put them on because they tend to hurt my eyes if I were wearing them for too long and it's not super convenient what with the helmet and the cap I'm wearing under it to shield the sun because the shirt is abetian and although that might account for the problems, to be honest it didn't feel like it was that big a deal, I didn't really feel that I needed perfect vision, I mean I had them there to put on if I did, so anyway that's just a buy the buy.

So when I was in Balgue which is nearly back and all the hills much further on than there, oh by the way once you get past Balgue a little bit it's like the road is even quieter and you stop even seeing tourists on scooters basically it's it's locals on scooters and a few trucks and buses and assuming I had some basic lesson like they were giving in the street out front of the Santa Ana Hostel I think on a practical level I wouldn't really have any qualms hiring a scooter and riding it on the roads here the traffic levels really are so low there are virtually no forks in the road most the time it's like it would be fine I don't think I would do that given all the myriad legal and general so on implications of motor vehicles and accidents and insurance and leaving your passport with the rental place and what if it gets stolen I mean like these things can happen with a pedal bike but it's a much lower stakes proposition right but nonetheless the traffic level it's like in Santa Ana it was not just nerves or practicalities about you know insurance and stuff the traffic levels like at least in the town would have been higher not necessarily a big deal but you know you'd have had to be going across intersections and stuff like that to get to and from the hostel whatever it was like out in the country whereas honestly here it's like I do feel it would not be actually particularly suicidal or dangerous for anyone else for me to be driving around cautiously on a scooter despite my general lack of driving experience.

Anyway, so when I was in Balgue, I think I pulled up outside someplace, but I was due of pulling up a lot to stop and rest and walk up hills and have a drink, and also the traffic gets a little bit thicker at Balgue and I would sometimes stop or whatever, but I pulled up outside this little, not quite shack, it was an icish little building, and there was a really nice chap there actually, and it said outside they were selling fresh coconuts, but it was all something out, Ilado Stolece, and I said, oh have you got them, and he said, yeah, yeah, yeah, and I said how much is it, and he said, oh it's ten cordobers, and I said, oh great, I'll have one then please, I mean probably taking a risk, but it was nice, and he just brought me this little plastic bag full of sort of frozen, I think it was strawberry and milk that had been blended up, and it was fairly solid, and I sort of tore a hole in the bag and sucked at it, and you know probably got all sorts of contamination off the bag, and I'm standing there eating it with the bike propped up, and he says, and he comes back and he says, oh no, no sorry, it's only five, and he gives me the five cordobers, I mean the ten was already nothing, and I gave him the bag afterwards, and he said, oh yeah, thank you, thank you, take that, because you know, to put him in the bin, and so a bit further down the road, I was having another rest and drinking my coke, and moped pulls up scooter, whatever it is, and I think he was French guy, the one I chatted to back in Rick's hostel, and then who turned up at the hostel the next day, he was there, he had a friend on the back of the bike, he didn't say anything, we were speaking in English, I don't know whether his friend was someone I met before, but he reminded me who he was, but I did recognise him after a little bit, we had a bit of a chat, and he said he'd maybe seen me crossing the Maxi Pali car park in Granada, where there was the chicken place, not necessarily that day, he wasn't sure, it could have been me, but he might not have seen me, anyway we didn't chat that much, but you know, that was that was nice, a couple of minutes chat at the side of the road, and a nice little coincidence.

Oh going back when I started off riding the bike I was like super cautious and like fortunate there's no forks in the road well there's one fork like by the hostel it was that was no not a big deal exactly yes I'm on the right side of the road literally and figuratively but I'm still feeling really kind of nervous and like I'm doing something wrong or something's gonna go badly wrong and I don't know how it happened but I think in hindsight I had the kickstand out because at one point about five minutes in maybe going through probably ten minutes in maybe going through Balgate some guy sort of shouts I think who is he going at me and I sort of ignore him and maybe he's just talking to a friend but I feel a bit guilty in case I've done something wrong and I think in hindsight he was trying to warn me about that because about 15 minutes later I'm on a much quiet stretch of road and there's a local woman on a moped and she calls at me and she tells me in maybe Spanish maybe English she said the word kick or something she points out that the thing is down and I go oh sorry and I put it up I didn't rip the end off or it wasn't abrading I think it was just down and maybe a bit unsafe or people just noticed and wanted to let me know don't know how I started off with it like that but you know for what it's worth I started to feel less nervous as time went on I mean I was a bit worried the bike would crap out or that I would crap out or I get puncture or something or that there'd be a dog but I want there was less traffic on the road and I was getting a bit more convinced cur confident and like I was probably overly riding on the brakes going down the hills because it was very gravelly and like it's not super steep but there's you know enough up and down it's like I'm not super confident I don't trust myself I don't trust the bike I'm not wearing a helmet so I was trying to keep it really slow and I was riding the brakes a lot you know but it's fine

So I got back and dropped the bike off fine, and I think I went and got myself a drink at Ocean Market and brought it back to the hostel. Yeah, I think I did, and I sat on the terrace a little bit, and then I went into my room and did the laundry and faffed around a bit. And then I went back out onto the terrace, which was deserted towards sunset, and I think that's where I already written up to. So that's probably the basic gist of the day, if I didn't miss anything.

I'm not super keen to go overloading every day with activity, but given the very early lesson tomorrow, if I feel basically okay, I'm a bit worried I'll be stiff after the bike ride, but I think it'll be fine. I had a shower if I didn't say when I got back and was in the hostel room before going out for the sunset. Tomorrow I'm thinking I might do the kayak thing, probably walk down to where it was, maybe WhatsApp the guy first, but it might be a bit awkward because my shorts will be wet from kitesurfing, but I might walk down to where I was the other day and have a kayak for an hour or two and maybe a coffee and then come back. I could get a bike, but I don't think I need it. And then I'm kind of thinking that maybe another day, perhaps the day after, depending on lessons and stuff, I might hire a bike and see if I can ride round to the track. I think it might be at San Ramon, which is a 40-minute hike because the guy I met who was on the moped, the guy I met at Santa Ana, he was telling me about this. There's a 40-minute hike up to the waterfalls, I think not to the lake at the top of the volcano. That's probably, although I need to research it a bit more involved. But there's a 40-minute hike up to some falls on the volcano, the eastern volcano, I think it begins with an M. And I could probably, having looked at organic maps, the ride I did today was probably about the same length, maybe the road's hillier, maybe it's not. The ride is about the same length to there. So in theory, like if I had a longer day and I hired the bike for longer or whatever, maybe it was a day when the lesson was cancelled, I could cycle to there, leave the bike at the bottom, do the hike up and cycle back. So, you know, compensating for not having a scooter or something. I have also thought that I could try and circumnavigate the volcano. That would be about twice the distance I did today because there wouldn't be the there and back, it would just be a circuit. And I think, you know, if I hired the bike for the whole day and I was prepped and I could buy some bits and pieces at some shops on the way, that might be quite cool. But I think it's probably a bad idea to mix that in with doing a volcano hike, you know, so not with the waterfall hike. So maybe that's the thing to look at first. And then if I have time, because I may be hanging around here for a week or more, you know, maybe then another time, I will consider doing the whole circuit around the volcano, the eastern volcano. There are the two, you know, I think it's the eastern one.

Okay, I'm sorry this is all just stream of consciousness, but it's the voice dictation. I want to bash it out. Obviously, if I really care in the future, cross-referencing some of this with the GPS logs might be instructive, assuming they survive, which they probably will. Anyway, I'm gonna send this now. I think I forgot to send it yesterday, so I'm gonna send this and then I'm gonna go to bed.

Wednesday, 25 February 2026

Santa Cruz, Tuesday

Tue 0830 okay, so voice typing surreptitiously on the hostel terrace, didn't sleep that well, and pisses a bit yellow, I'm wondering if I'm slightly dehydrated. I'm trying to get breakfast here, I maybe should just have gone out to one of the places nearby but it's probably about the same price and about the same quality. A bit nervous about today but also sort of looking forward to it, there's a bit of a breeze and I've got ooh I'm going to be cold feelings but of course there's no real reason to worry about that.

Put a touch detector app on the phone, there's a strip about two-thirds of the way down the screen across it where it's sort of jittery Could just be the screen protector. Of course. I haven't taken it off yet I've tried sort of pressing it down and rubbing it with cloths and clothes and it hasn't really helped But who knows could be a hardware fault which would suck but such is life Might be repairable economically. I mean it might even be a economically repairable over here, but I don't know I mean, anyway, it could very well be the screen protector. So I just haven't taken it off yet. I'm just making a note

I've probably already said, but the kitesurfing just feel quite expensive, really, at 160 a day, basically, for three hours of classes, but it is what it is and it probably is worth doing. I mean, yeah, it's going to add up. You have to kind of assume, given that I'm planning to do the basic three days, which is what they recommended at a minimum, unless it's awful or horrible, so it's quite likely to be three days' worth at three times 160 and maybe a day or two more, depending how it goes, you know, if I'm slow or if it's going all right and I want to sort of cement it or get a bit more in, but it's fine. I can afford it. It's only a two-month trip not a three month which while I don't have a formal budget could be agued to free some budget up. It's an experience. I did want to do it, blah, blah, blah. I'm just saying it is quite a lot of money, yes.

It is a bit weird having primarily dollars and constantly thinking am I getting screwed on the exchange rate when I ask for change or when I spend them. I've got some local cash and I do get local cash when I spend the dollars, but given the potentially very large expenditure on the kitesurfing and that that's dollar denominated and their exchange rate, I asked, they were very honest, they said it was 36 and the market rate was like 36.7 or 36.8. In my head maybe I got it wrong, that's like a 2% premium, so it was worth paying the 1% premium at the cash machine to get dollars, well I had to pay that to get local currency anyway, and you know I'm probably not getting that stiffed on other stuff, but since the bulk of the spend is going to be the dollar spend on the kitesurfing, I had to default to that. It's fine, obviously, I'm just waffling and making a note, but it is still slightly odd to be spending dollars more than I normally would if it hadn't been for this withdrawal.

0924 back in my room doing the voice typing, not sure what to do with the screen protector, I might take it off later but I'm not taking it off before the lesson I've been in this slightly awkward time-killing zone, I've come back into my room it's like I need to get slightly changed but I'm mostly ready and I'm a bit nervous and I'm sort of a bit excited but you know I don't know what to do so I'm just making a note about that and then I'll probably try not to keep waffling forever about it

1202 le#on cancelled to due too strong winds. Just one of those things. I have extended here another night and there isnt much I can do. To be fair I walked along beach road and sat on beach and maybe it is the power of suggestion but it does seem windy. I noticed there is actually another kite school slightly nearer hostle which ibhasnt seen before but I am not xhopping and changing  also while diaappointong this seems quite professional of them, they could have given me a shit lesson and charged for it just to get the money etc.

Actually most annoyed at all the sunblock I wasted on my arms and legs that I now no longer need. I am not out but I don't have tons. I did look in at ocean mart and while they have some mega expensive stuff, they do have 90g of factor 50 at a whisker under 300 or about six quid which is still eye watering but basically ok. I have not bought any, I strongly suspect I have enough for at least one fullish body application and if I don't I would have time to buy some at ocean before the class to orrow and if the class goes well and I expect to be doing at least 2-3 more days the expense of buying this becomes less significant and more juatifiavle.

Not quite sure what to so with the day. I do have some slightly pain in ball of right foot near RBIG toe, not sure it is a blister, but not ideal. Gut feeling is I will
Maybe  walk down towards merida as I did towards balgue and take it easy. I may also go for dinner or lucnh or a drink at a reataraunt or bar in some other nearby hostel by way of checking it out in terms of maybe staying there. I had a look at booking from the beach and there are nearby hostels with dorm beds and some do have privates but the privates are not as cheap as here and the dorm beds are not insanely cheap. I am open to a dorm and or a change of hostel for social stuff (although I do have some low key potential here and I don't feel too left out which i s perhaps main thing) and maybe paying for an expensive private to smooth things over or maybe going dorm *but* I think right now I would like to avoid any possible mind fuck or just extra stress before I ag least start the lessons. And given baed on the sullabua you probably don't get into the water until day 2, quite frankly I could see an argument for avoiding a hostel move until at least after day 2 of lessons, and depending how things go and whether I am forced to move, it might be smart to stay here for the duration of the lessons however long that is and then if I want to make a separate experiment staying at a different hostel.

Noticed today flight is on 25th so about a calendar month left. But that is fine, I do still have a lot of time, I am (trying) to do stuff etc. At least the cancellation today is just annoying and I am not down to a few days and maybe won't have enough time etc.

It does feel a waste of a day but in moderation a bit of wandering a bit of maybe experimentation at a reataurant or bar or a bit of a walk might be low key fun and although it is enforced it also is something I sort of wanted. Trying to squeeze in something big or semi big like an after oon kayak tour (making that up, no idea if it exists) feels like a bad idea in terms of burning up willpower and maybe body/muscle strength etc - I don't want to be sore going into the lessons etc.

1438 getting second coffee at Mirador del Concepción. Hope it doesn't rain. Walked over here, very quiet. Tried to go to la sirenita on a whim but a dog decided last minute to get a bit stroppy but managed to get down here. Owner chap had a brief chat, they do kayak rentla for inept two people at ten dollars an hour (and despite every single person I see not wearing one) this includes a lifejacket, or the guy said he would do me a deal of a guised tour at 20 dollars for two hours plus two hours of kayak rental so o guess 40 all in, he said normally it would be 30 for the guide. Anyway, he has given me his number (name Gabriel) and while the tour may be a touch expensive it might be interesting to come and hire a kayak for an hour or two another day.

I really hope it doesn't fucking rain  but I suppose an hour walk back in the rain wouldn't kill me in these temps and it probably won't.

Ok gabfel aac5aly out me on wifi and just checked weather, rain seems unlikely, but I note it says strong winds tonorrow too and something about them aubaiding thudsday.  Just have to keep my fingers crossed I guessed. And while annoying I so have time and to a limited extent waiting around for ok weather is kind of part and parcel of this sort of stuff I guess

I am not sure it isn't going to rain tbh. But what can I do?

Been slightly melancholy but nice here anyway and the second coffee has raced down and I do feel a bit down and maybe the weather worry etc isn't helping, albeit not crjppling. I think I will not neck it but it has nearly gone and not nurse it either.

2029 so I'm back in my room voice dictating this I walked back no problem it didn't rain I came back to the hostel did a bit of poking around on the web I think at that point they'd sent me a message saying midday for the lesson tomorrow maybe that turned up later anyway I replied and I made a little joke about fingers crossed for good weather and they did come back saying oh we're expecting to be there tomorrow so yeah fingers crossed when I got back yes I was messing around room a bit I thought I would go out and get something to eat and maybe have a look at some of the other hostels nearby with firstly because I needed to eat anyway also with a view to checking them out for if and when I decide to move somewhere else.

Whenn I hewded out Noam speaking to this Antipodean girl and I said hi and he shook my hand and I had been going to leave them to it but that sort of invited me in and I chatted for a few minutes before saying I was going to get dinner and maybe see them later.

So I went to huellitas and that looks quite interesting it almost looks well quite rural but there's a lot of places here are quite rural anyway I did went in and I was having sort of a look as I went and I spoke to a guy there and he said no no no we don't have a restaurant so I left but that does actually look kind of interesting I just want to read reviews. I then sort of tried to go into El Zopilote which was just super confusing they seem to have two locations both of them were kind of dead this was about quarter to five I think I was speaking Spanish I really didn't think I was speaking that badly but the basic idea that there's a restaurant at either location despite signs in the street saying restaurant vegan vegetarian food it was like I just asked them I don't know something crazy I mean they weren't saying oh it's too early sorry or oh sorry guests only I don't think it is guests only it was just like it's not sir this is a chemist this was the kind of gist anyway it's fine I mean they weren't rude just to be completely clear I was stone cold sober at this point so no question of anything like that being an issue but yeah a bit weird maybe it's a collective farm based on what I've read but it's still supposed to be hostile and they say you'd think the staff would say oh sorry the restaurant's not open yet or I'll come back later and it's like no no no it's like they definitely didn't say that there was no massive Spanish issue at that level anyway.

But that left me feeling really quite confused, not really a social issue, except for the apparent absolute lack of any other guests loitering around, but maybe they were all round the back or something. Anyway, I headed back towards Santa Cruz proper, and I came across Maria's hostel and Comedor or restaurant, or whatever it's called, and it looked a bit unpromising at first. And I went in and it did feel a bit weird, but I asked, and I got a meal, and although she did not recognise me saying the word aderezo, I did clarify - I was speaking Spanish, I don't know if they speak English in there, they probably do - I managed to get n undressed salad. I asked about the bistec Encebollado, they didn't have that, but I... she offered Pollo, and so I got Pollo Frito, and it was actually, to be fair, very good, and it was 200 and another 30 for the Coke, and she was quite cheery when I paid. Yeah, it was nothing like special, fancy, you don't like fancy anyway, but yeah, it was really well done, the portion was decent, it was like a flat chicken breast coated in breadcrumbs or something, and fried, deep fried, I don't know, but really nice actually, and I did get the salad undressed, and that was really surprisingly good actually, I might very well go back there, it's not cheaper than anywhere else, but it did feel better value.

So I came back and I can't remember exactly how I basically know him and the girl were sitting outside on the balcony, terrace, and I sat near them and I chipped into the conversation a little bit and I think it was okay and that was quite nice and I recommended Maria's to her when she asked her somewhere to go and eat so I hope she had a nice time. She went and so I finished my beer, oh I went into the mini market just opposite the hospital to get the beer first and then I thought oh well you know I'll go and get another beer at Ocean and drink it on the beach so I did that, the streets were dark at this point, it was probably about half six. No problem, I did put my torch on my phone as I was walking over because a couple of bits were very dark but it is quite a main road and there were no real problems with any dogs. It was windy as hell at the beach amazingly so I wondered if I was a complete nutter although there were a couple of locals I think maybe at a restaurant or at the Comedor just up above that slightly so maybe not. It was kind of cool but also a bit weird, I don't know if it was just the wind blowing something around but there was a thing on the beach that seemed to be like a jumping insect or spider. I tried to have a look at it but I lost it in the not quite full dark but you know very twilight-y dark. I was sitting on some rocks didn't actually worry me too much but I had the beer and it was okay and then I came back home because there was no point staying out later.

So I came back and the terrace was empty, and I sat in the hammock, and looked at stuff on my phone for a little bit, and then I came in here and that's about where we are. I think I was going to say something general about the other day. Oh, when I actually headed out to go to the beach, a spider, very much like the one that was in the room the other night, was scuttling across the terrace, and I did take a photo of it when it settled down, I'm not saying it was the same one, but it was very similar. I don't think I took a photo of the one that was in the room, so that's very similar.

The girl did also mention that her friends had suggested that they go over to the karaoke at Raindance afterwards. They'd been out on some tour today, which is why they weren't with her, just mentioned that in passing with regard to Raindance. I don't know if she did go or not, but I'm starting to think maybe I will give it a try later on as somewhere to stay. Although I don't know, huellitas look kind of interesting, but that's all by the by, not an issue right now. I'm going to stick with this place at least for tomorrow and maybe for the day after, unless they're actually full. As I say, I don't think I'll get into the water on the first day of the kite surfing, even if it does go ahead. So it would probably be good to avoid any kind of disturbance or mental static or whatever by changing accommodation at least until I've done day two of the kite surfing.

I'm seriously thinking about taking the screen protector off the P7. It isn't getting any better, it does kind of feel like it might help. I had a chat with an LLM this morning, I don't know if it's full of shit but it did kind of agree with me, but it's not like I'm being convinced by that. I'm sort of saying this to make a note for myself, because I'd been talking about it on this blog over the last few days. I'm just kind of reluctant to be left with the phone screen naked, even if it does fix it, but I could maybe get a screen protector I may take the screen protector off later so I'm saying this now just to document that, yeah, I have been talking about it for a while, it's still not getting better, and I think there's a chance it'll fix it, and the downside is probably limited anyway.

It has been kind of warmish today because I mean the breeze does get blocked obviously or just doesn't exist quite so much away from the beach Although it's very windy near the beach, but it's not it's not horrible It's warm, but there's generally a bit of a breeze and it was kind of overcast at points And it's not I can generally sitting around sweating. It's it's sort of warmly tropical with variations But it's generally quite nice and not for example like being in Granada where it mostly during the day felt awful Of course, maybe that's my psychology or me getting used to it, but for what it's worth

2100 washed 2 sets uw and done some exercises. Vaguely tempted to snack on some crisp things I have left over from yesterday but will try to be strong.

I did wonder about not having any beers today but what with one thing or another I thought I would I mean two is hardly insane is it they weren't as enjoyable as I might have hoped but it was only one day off and both of them were in slightly strange and awkward circumstances you know with the group on the terrace and then on the beach so it's fine yeah

I am slightly tempted to watch from YouTube as well, but to be honest I also feel a tiny bit tired. There's obviously nothing doing socially tonight, not that I'm tremendously up for it anyway, except on general grounds, but not specifically. So I do feel a bit tired, and although I don't have to be up particularly early, I think I might have a shower and do my teeth and go to bed. It's like it's not that early, it might not hurt, it might help things generally. I feel broadly speaking, okay, today hasn't been too bad in many ways, I've not done too bad with these interactions at the hostel, and I didn't flip out about the lesson, and I've maintained a mostly positive attitude, and likewise at the cafe by the lake and keeping open to the kayaking possibility, which I've got my eye on. Anyway, so there you go.

2108 just taken screen protector off. The touch sensitive showing app which shows a dot under fingers doesn't seem improved, but this actually seem a to be working *way* better. The touch showing app is every old and there may be a weird old android incompatibility glitch which causes that bizarre strip of jumpiness.

But yeah thinks like swiping up from the bottom of the acreen to get back to the launcher are now working reliably. So fingers crossed the screen protector was basically the cause of the glotch8ness, time will tell, but that is sometime. I don't think I could get a screen protector here on ometepe but I amf randomly quite IP for experimenting with running the phone e naked, it my be one thing I get tout of this trip longer term is realising just how subtly crappy having a screen protector in is (at least ton this phone) even before it went najorly tits up over the last few days.

I will have to be extra cateful about trying to keep eg sand off the p7 but it does already have its own dedicated pocket with no keys (and back in UK too) so with a tiny bit off extra caution this may well be a worthwhile gamble. As I say it may still turn out to befaulty but initial signs from typing this are promising. Of course eit isn't perfect because it is on screen keyboard with predictive text but the utter chaotic randomness that tkocks in at times and has to be temporarily averted by turning screen off and on seems to have gone, touch wood. And the screen doesn't even feel notably sticky despite just peeling the protector off without any tools or (more to the point) using any ipa type screen cleaner after.

So phew  probably.

2119 okay, I've had a shower and done my teeth. Just for the record, the shower here is just cold. I think that's just par for the course, probably for the island, probably for most of Nicaragua. I can't specifically remember what Leon and Granada were like, but unless I wrote otherwise, I would guess they are cold only showers. Not really a big deal in this climate. I mean, the wind's howling outside like Arctic, but it's still slightly warm in the room. I haven't got the fan on at the moment, but I will put it on. It's not painfully warm, but it's definitely warm, you know. Was there anything else I was going to say?

Not to say I won't feel nervous tomorrow but in some strange way I think having the kitesurfing put off has kind of diminished some of the fear. I don't know, it sort of feels strangely and irrationally a bit more routine because it's been put back like that. I don't know, maybe I'm just making shit up as I talk but anyway, thought it's worth. I think I'll probably send this and go to bed because I did yawn a bit while I was cleaning my teeth. There's nothing specifically to stay up for and we'll see how it goes. Hopefully I get a bit better sleep tonight. I'm not sleeping terribly, it's just not quite right somehow. I don't really know why.

I just remembered I was thinking about cutting my fingernails tonight, but they're not particularly bad, and I think they can easily wait. And of course, in general, I have no convenient way to soak them before I cut them, even if I have a shower. Unless it's a hot shower, I'm just not going to be in there for the 10-20 minutes that would probably take. I don't have any cups to really dunk them in, I suppose in theory I could bodge something up in the sink. But anyway, not a big deal.

I am also just slightly overdue for a haircut only on my general let's try and keep it short principles I don't really think I've seen a hairdresser around here and it's certainly not terrible if I spot one I might do it but otherwise I guess when I get back to the mainland just a note

2124 I was sure there was something else but it can't be that important. Let's send this now and go to bed.

Tuesday, 24 February 2026

Granada, Saturday; Granada-Santa Cruz and Santa Cruz, Monday

Sat 21st 0805 been awake for at least half an hour, having breakfast (pancakes). Fwiw someone, probably several people, were snorking like crazy (albeit just about bearable) n the night. Perhaps because of that and perhaps coincidence b got up for a piss about 0230 and the hostel was busy, all the toilets I tried at first were occupied. I thought treehouse went out til 3 at least but maybe a lot of people came back earlyish.

0809 I feel ok. Not I'll but a tiny bit heavy with the food somehow. I suspect more just a touch of hypocrisy and general nerves about today (it is not exteeme but there is water and swimming and UV and maybe kayak and I will either be phoneleaa or will be at risk of losing my phone and I won't have normal clothes with me and tomorrow is a travel day albeit probably a fairly easy one with the shuttle and a probably ly simple if annoyingly pricey boat and maybe taxi to the accom.

I did/do feel a bit rough, presumably from the beers last night, even though it wasn't insane. Nothing major. Will have two or three cips of coffee and I may have my remaining sandwiches in a hour or so. Need to pack/change for the apoyo tour but not leaving til 10

I got the grey trousers included in the wash I handed in yesterday, I had only put them on the day of the volcano boarding so they really didn't have much wear in them but I figured if it really is a dollar a pound (weight) and given how sweaty etc I have felt lately I would get them properly washed while I had the chance.

0829 overhearing a few fragments of conversation about treehouse. Some guy saying they were on the first shuttle. I think people enjoyed it but at least so far (maybe those guys are still in bed hungover) seems to be absolutely omfg raving about it.  (Not sour grapes, just noting. Tbh I suspect I could go if I had really wanted, but I have been feeling pretty low lately so probably smart not to do it just on silly checks boz grounds. I think it is probably good and mildly iconic but not actually omfg best thing ever totally unique and aepxial experience.)

1755 waiting for free drinks. Today actually not bad. No chat but didn't expect any. I did swim for about half an hour early (11) and half an hour late and I also did 10-15 mins (prob nearer 10) solo kayak about 2pm before swimming again 245pm. First swim more back and forth breast and bit of front, second had some of that but did a few jumps and dives off the floating raft platform thing and also got an inflatable ribber ring thing and floated about on that a bit. Kayak was not as difficult as I expected but I wasn't sure about benign vs legal straight and was a bit edgy about tipping myself over, albeit despite modest waves oen the lake it didn't really feel very likely. Nain thing was the physical effort required,  but to be fair part of this was legal hurting due to awkward positioning and I assume the legs aren't doing the work really, and my stomach was hurting but was this effort or just tension? Still for (f we ignore tiny slightly weird experience during San Blas trip) a very first ever kayak and first ever solo kayak not too bad and J had a go and it is a starting point etc.

Went out for food after shower when got back, couldn't find any comedor or anything, wandered a bit and ended up having a chicken breast at the Quick Pollo food cart outside Maxi Pali. living the dream baby.

No idea whether I will go out tonight or not or whether I will have a beer or two. Hostel has a pub crawl but I really am not interested especially when I have to travel tomorrow  and I also suspect after last night maybe a lot of people won't be that up for it but who knows.

Dutch couple from volcano boarding are at next table. I should probably say hi.

1804 ok did have tiny chat with bloke at the bar getting free drink, he wasn't rude or stansoffiah but not very chatty. It is his birthday today and they are out tonight so may account for it  but I die at least ask about last night. He chatted a bit with bar staff about it. Aapparently the music is quite mellow for techno, one of staff said because people who aren't really into texhno go because it is the treehouse party it is toned down a  bit (paraphrasing). Some woman came up showing aignup for the pub crawl, it is 5 USD but I also felt a tiny bit like she wasn't actually talking to me, but that is probably over sensitive but more to the point I really don't want to do 5 shots tonight and I am sort of in this weird slightly (bit not massively) annoyed at not chatting to people but also not desperately keen to make a last ditch effort at this hostel mood. Really I am not absolutely averse but it could be awfully isolqting, I am not huge on shots, if I wasn't travelling tomorrow maybe I would feel different, also I am drinking albeit not to excess a lot and I am having the free rum and Fresca no\ and may even have some beers later and I may have a beer watching the sunset from the garden of hostel on onetepw etc tomorrow so while none of this is mega abatemioua and equally I'd I was really tempted by the pub crawl I would probably do it but all in all I thinkot.

Dutch bloke was saying the tree house was cool but he wasn't going omfg it was amazing.

Fwiw the street leading down from oen end of hostel street towards the bridge with the (dry season I guess) very dirty low flow lots of rubbish river is sort of vibrantly markety but also has a decided poverty stricken third world kind of vibe (that is probably overatating it but still). Maybe I am just a bit prejudiced but leon didn't feel quite like that and not did even the poorer bits of el Salvador that I have seen so far.

To be scrupulously fair except for the small risk of getting run over, at least at this time of day (5pmish, before sunset) it didn't feel actively threatening or dangerous.

I am slightly annoyed about the pub crawl. But this is more me making a somewhat sensible decision than self excluding on shyness or age or whatever grounds. If it was a few beers that would be different but shots and a possibly late-ish night, no, the timing is not right. I could spend that metaphorical alcohol budget elsewhere.

- [x] Ftr iirc (but pretty sure I have photos) the beach club resort place included in today's apoyo apoyo apoyo tour was coco bay. I was briefly tempted by the 290 buffet for lunch but it wasn't an all you can eat type buffet, just a comida a la vista thing very similar to what you might get in a comedor at about twice the price and I just wasn't that fussed. I had had four sandwiches to finish my supplies before heading out after breakfast. I also360 resisted the temptation to have e a beer partly because of swimming/kayaking so I didn't actually spend any money there.

1914 got laundry, seems ok.

At tierra MIA on calzada. Nominally 60 for a tona. I feel slightly pissed or vaguely woozy from the three free ones at hostel in an odd way. Probably shouldn't be drinking but will have a low key couple, people watch a bit and then an early night I think.

1925 I think I have modest sunburn on back. And the p7 screen is acting up badly, I hope it is bettermow, I simply a tony  it of water or alcohol (likely just condensation dripping off glass) during free drinks at hostel and it may be that. To be fair it is working now.

Gut xhurning a bit but I think it is a sort of nerves and slightly poor diet and vague irratitation/stress kind of thing. Mariachi's performing at next table.

1933 second beer  like the first it is so cold it has ice in it from presumably having been frozen, but atlctally doesn't feel all that cold

While warm it was more pleasant at the lake than in granada. And to be fair last tonight it was a bit cooler too.

The lake water btw would fluctuate wildly every few m between cool and warm. I wore ny bandanna all the time, but swam topless (presumably hence back burn, I had put some sunblock onmy shoulders before leaving hostel) but did have t-shirt (red short sleeve of course) on during the kayaking but my legs were sun lockless and potentially at risk of burning, albeit the short 10ish mins probably highly mitigates this.

Water rwas pretty deep pretty quickly btw but was pretty chill about it which is good.

Incidentally that brief exchange tonight does show that despite being uncertain I did in fact recogniae the Dutch guy correctly when he said hi to me yesterday, which is also good.

It is by no means dead but also not super lively and rammed. The two middle aged local couples at the next table who had the Mariarchis are kind of cute in their way though. they are dancing in the street (I am sitting outside as are they, o one rlis really inside)

It is sort of cool to e here and see the cathedral in the mid distance and there eis a coolish strongish breed. I am tbh not in love with  granada but maybe my lack of fun or discomfort has been randomness plus perhaps an accidentally bad hostel choice but it isn't terrible. And I may be back here depending on what I decide to do after ometepe. Which may or may not be a shirt or long stay, if I like it is certainly have the time budget to put a week in there.

Fellow tourists walk past occasionally but it does feel like the small quantity of clientele here is local.

Fwiw while there is sure of hell no shortage of motorbikes in nicaragua, it does feel like the chances of being run down by a pedal bike are non zero and this feels different from el Salvador.

I did use my phone  little bit (on WiFi though my own data is still working mostly) at the last, but during my high uv breaks I did mostly just ait and think and stare at the view etc.

Local vibe aside  the giu at the table behind me looks like he might be an expat. But even that is kind of cool, and different from the 20 yo backpackers who seem to be dominating my mental perspective lately.

Wet not finding anywhere to eat earlier, I suspect all the comedor s shut super early as in el Salvador. I have no idea what low budget locals do who want to eat in the evening. I was thinking about comedor pa mi gente at the lake and struggled a bit but after an initial "oooh, I could go there tonight before drinks" I remembered it was in leon.

Sudden random and probably Weird thought that to should ask one of the itinerant vendors I am constantly (exaggeration) saying no gracias to to accept 50 cordobas and act as verbal prostitute and chat to
Me for Spanish practice for 5 minutes.

Fwiw while I fuss the non trivial and maybe vnt highly dominant vs tourists locals here are relatively well off, this street does not feel like it is for Reich foreigners only or like all the locals are in poverty. But yes that strip down towards maxi pali and some of the other streets do have that vague kind of vibe, albeit it isnt quite that bad and I am not describing it that well.

Incidentally on shuttle back from lake a you Gullah woman who seemed to be vaguely digital nomad and *might* be at my hostel was saying she had a private room but no aircon and the fan just didn't have enough airflow and it was so damn hot. Not judging or anything, seems a reasonable le comment and she wasn't being overly whiny and no more smufbthwn is inherently implixitbin all this, not posing, I just found it interesting.

Yeah, it is warm now Tonight but borderline nice and tropically interesting and exotic not absolutely stifling. As I think I already said it does seem to vary a little day to day, some days and some nights are stickier than others  even based on small amount of time I have spent here so far.

I feel better than when I left hostel and perhaps oddly (unless the rum was creeping up on me - except for the first drink, the measures look fairly generous and casual at the hostel, but the drinks always taste weak) less drunk than when I came, albeit not sober. Will probably have a fourth and just maybe a fifth and then home for early bed. I do feel a bit tired for whatever reason, maybe lingering from recent days or today or who knows. Incidentally there is a lingering muscle fatigue which I notice in bed, possibly from volcano boarding and the tumbles (though they were not painful and given I survived them kind of fun actually) or maybe from other general axitivty or just randomness.

The music here is generally smoother and softer and classic pseido vaguely ballroom dancier and (very loosely] we have very slightly rocked it up with a prince Royce style song playing now, not like the classic latin rock last night at the other bar.

2032 wow just asked way to bog and there is a huge inner courtyard and quite a few people in here, albeit not in an ultra classy way (sort of nicely run down unpretentious), but I think it is nicer and cooler sitting in the streets

2035 just ordered a fourth. Not pissed but unless I am enjoying myself massively (and I might be) this will probably be the last  this is only like 3ish pints I guess.

Fwiw I went in via the tierra mia entrance and emerged apparently from the same internal structure via q doorway labelled galerias la calzada, but I assume it is all the same place not some weird bar complex.

Quite: a lot of friendlyish street dogs around.

Harvey just walked past. No recognition, he was with a couple of mates  but oddly cool to see him.

2046 we have broken out into English rock. "Monkey business on the floor" and now something vaguely rnb/rap remix of staying alive.

I should probably have called out to Harvey but i also feeling a bit of a mild downer and an leaving tonorrow, but you know, it sort of feels like the title what a confident person would have done, renewing the casual acquaintance and maybe inviting something to happen.

Bit torn. One beer at the margin makes nobsifferenxe.  But it does add up, and (I have about half this one left) while this isn't a terrible night, it also (woman from next table just asked for napkins from my table) isn't amazing (remix of ring my bell playing) and I hope to have more fun and friendly and memorable nights and despite not hating it as per earlier, it will frankly be nice to be the hell out of this hostel and Granada and have a freahiah start modulo any lingering mental stains and stirred up shit.

OTOH I like here and 5 350ml bottles is not going to make tomorrows modest shuttle a living hell and while I am an observer there is still something kind of cool about being here.

Ot3h some vague bitterness coming through. It feels like I am settling a bit. Ot4h finnof whatever kind nomattwr how mild is where you find it, and while I don't expect or even want it (travel tonorrow), random unexpected shit has happened to me before from just being out etc. L

I am piase of I burned my back and maybe I should have just swim in my red tshirt bit I sort of didn't want to temporarily ruin it. And it is nicer to swim without. And fingers crossed the damage is modest and the pain low.

Menu says this is akaraoke bar. Not really in mood and I fucked up quite badly even by my lowbstandards other night in leon and I suspect not tonight anyway but fwiw.

Still deeply torn about fucking off vs not. But I! Some level we are just over four weeks in, while far from perfect I haven't done too badly so far and it would be good to just move on from  the mood swamp of granada and this hostel  and actually have some genuine untainted-ish fun somewhere else. It isnt like Granada is the last fun place in the country or world. Jee, I'd be fucked if it was, given how little fun I have had here in a sense.

And while this isn't the pub crawl, the fact is that I am travelling tomorrow and I am not mega feeling it even if there is something (and something localish) to the vibe here, it isnt like this is the sort of light where (while i would welcome it) i would absolutely welcome a random social contact with fully open arms. I am a bit ground down and I want a fresh start andmaybe (trite but trueish) a bit of a nature reaet and some quiet contemplation (with beer, yes)  of a volcano sunset at a hostel where I don't feel like an utter invisible outsider etc etc.

2108 third left. And yes I hate osk. O think I lean towards leaving. It is late enough and I am tired enough I could sleep, just maybe buy some tortilla chips to gorge on at home, get a half decent aleepz moge on tomorrow and try to start fresh on all sort of ways.

2110 got bill, an honest and square 240 (60 each) and seems to be a very modest 20 tip, handed over 3p0, have beer and will see of I get change and if I do will leave a little.

Ok got 40 changes left a 10 under the menu, it is nothing bit a 30 tip overall feels nicer and what the hell, not acting lord bpuntifil pressing it onto his hand. Much nicer than last night.

Sun 1028 phine screen playing ip. Just paid moat of my remaining 500 notes to settle bill here. Went out to cash machine and it worked for two other people but rejects ny chad card almost immediately and two attempts on Barc rewards semi worked but then gave no cash at last minute. Also it was hanging for five mins saying take reciept after every successfuly wd and it was really busy. So I got no fucking cash and now I feel a bit vulnerable. There was sa shitty bank machine next to it and there probably are on ometepe but not the free ones and I am pissed off. I do have a lot of dollars and a fair amount of smaller Cordoba bills and I should be fine but I feel a bit vulnerable and pjssed off. This is maybe why it is smart to do big withdrawals anyway. I should really have gone yesterday with more cards and more time to wait (not that I expected it of course) for the fucking thing to reset and to keep rewueuing for more attempts and so on. For all I now maybe I picked one of the wrong meaningless options (Barclays vs Barclaycard visa?!) The machine offered me and with enough retries it would work but I didn't have time because I had to be back to pack and get the shuttle. Maybe try to learn the leason next time. As I say, I do have dollars and a fair amount of cordobas and it should be fine but I am likely to get stiffed for 6 to 10 dollars in fees and I feel more stresses out than idea.

The hostel bill was within about 200 of what I had eyeballed it at so it is probably right. But it does grate handing over this big wosge of cash last minute. They don't take credit cards here. I could have paid in dollars but fuck knows what exchange rate is and probably ly best to spend cordobas prefer tially. I don't anticipate huge problems spending dollars if I really need to.

Lessons:
- do not leave cash withdrawals until a day with a deadline (but to be fair yesterday I was saying just 5000 as a top up, not a necessity, but in hindsight - and partly because of the semi-forgotten big wosge to spend today plus dorm shit esp upper bunk making it even less attractive than usual to go xount my xash stash - I didn't absolutely need it but I wanted it more than I thought)
- it is smart to withdraw a big wosge when I can and keep it topped up and not let it get too low
- don't get blindsided by accumulating cash-only "tabs" (if I could have paid card I probably would, but not an option here even with a surcharge, and I wouldn't pay a surcharge unless more desperate than I am)

Just a minor glitxh really but not ideal and I feel probably irrationally this hostel and Granada are just bad medicine and the sooner I can get the fuck out maybe the better.

I am also a bit sick about the clasp on trousers not saying shut because they are too loose. How can I be too fucking thin after Christmas?

In a bit of a mood as you can probably tell. Not spiralling into despair or anything but fucking hell I want to get the fuck out of here and try to get my head together.

I didn't see an itemised hostel bill and do wonder if there is slim chance of a rip off eg not getting the 25% discoint (but I did ask when I extended) for the third night, but this is more bitterness and general diatrust talking and as I say the amount was about what ibexpecredm. As the kids say.

I love l{looking like an illiterate moron, on screen keyboards are the best.

No credit on local sim, had I not been so pushed wothbxash machine and dicking round in bed and at hostel I might have toped it up but I have the p7 international sim at a push, I don't strongly need it unless I need to do emergency WhatsApp with hostel for which there is the p 7 and I am absolutely sure that I will be able to top it IP on ometepe and if I couldn't it wouldn't be the end of the world, I doubt I am going to need Uber much on the island.

To e fair I was and am slightly amused by some of the hostel stools which have "you are here" arrows on them. Can't find it now to photo though, just maybe it is in some other casual anap.

Although I really haven't got on with this hostel, I do feel a general lesson here is that I have been just slightly rushing round and although yes there was only the walking tour my first full day I could have done with more of an "I am just taking it easy and not rushing round especially with this fucking heat and humidity" vibe. Not quite sure where this has come from. I don't feel super short on trip time left. Maybe it is just part of the bizarre internal emotional train crash sparked by this hostel and perhaps set in motion by all the emotional atatix about the fucking volcano boarding beforehand.

1059 ok I fucked up the chase pin which doubtless didn't help. But the Barclaycard should have worked, this was a small atm in a shop, fuck knows. I didn't have a reminder of the chase pin on phone and I guess I was feeling stressed despite making some effort to memorise all pins before trip.

Actually I am not sure the machine even asked me for the pin on the chase xars but it probably did.

I have an almost comically large wosge of low value bills mixed in with some 100s and 200s in my pocket. I guess I shouldnt worry cos my wallets fat.

If I wasn't already clear I would have likely got a lower bunk here if I hadn't been so massively dithery and trying to keep my options open about booking here after volcano boarding. Absolutely my fault. And to be fair the upper bink isn't ideal but hasn't been too bad and isn't really responsible for the general shitiness here.

1326 jeez. On ferry. Absolute dithering doddering hordes of tourists making everything seem slow. Like I bought ny ferry ticket in about 5 seconds, but somehow other people were engaging in epic discussions.

People not moving down the benches, they want backpacks at the back in a big pile but I have mine between my knees.

Still, we did seem to make the 130 ferry. No idea what will happens about trbasport to santa Cruz but this is a larger scale tpurist and local operation than I thought, I had visions of it being me and a handful of other tourists and me desperately asking if anyone wants to share a taxi. I suspect it will be chaos and expensive ripoff chaos at that but I guess it will be ok and should be plenty of options.

Not feeling terrible but not exactly  hipper, this feels unadventurous yet also incredibly tedious and disorganized.

45 yo Canadian chap from volcano boarding is here and I said hi to him.

I wouldn't 1p0% swear I don't recognize a few other people but I am sufficiently jaded after the isolation of the last hostel I dont really trust myself.

They sell beer? Not sure  some people seem unable to survive this epic crossing without snacks too.

1450 oh my god what a fucking shithole. I just spoke to a actually nice security guard and it is unfair so there eis no bus to santa Cruz or there is but it will turn up at some indefinite time. A super fucking unhelpful guy on some minibus I asked just said no. The ferry was interminable, the whole area round the dock is a tourist shithole. I wish I hadn't fucking come. Extra class coming on sunday.

Anyway let me try to keep my eurbopen for a bus. Oh there was a us schoolbus edging away when I got off the ferry but although it was going about walking pace I never got round the front to see where it was going and the driver had zero interest in stopping. Anywhere else I am sure there would be minibises all calling "santa Cruz" but not on fucking ometepe.

1517 ijust wa andered uto to a random kiosk renting quad bikes and bikes cos it it that kind of place and he says about 30 fucking dollars for a taxi to santa Cruz.

Last boat back at 530. I might end up just writing off the first night and staying in a hostel here in Motogoya or whatever the fuck the place eis called.

1653 fucking hell I hate this place  I guess I just have a bad attitude. Managed to squeeze into a shared taxi and got dropped outside hostel, checked in, place is deserted, I am not sure there is a guest fridge, I have rushed out for food before it gets dark, the place feels rip off a shell, I have ordered a 230 bistec encebollado lus eztra for a drink at a small extremely down at heel restaruant, it doesn't call itself a comedor but here comedor seems t mean just expensive local shit or "we don't actually have any food at all visible and no one will event ry to talk to you when you look into" but I may be hangry and in any case cannot risk not eating. There are at least mini supermarkets so I may subsist on Diana jalapeno tortilla chips after today.

Fwiw the other clients here are a very aged local looking family group. Wind and sand sears my face at the open air table. To be fair it is at least not fucking stickily hot.

I would have benefitted from local sim at the dock but the international sim plus hotspt to the A06 for me out of a hole. There was one shop advertising top ups but no one was there and I was worried about missing the bus, which my accom has assured me doesn't run Sundays via the wa message I sent then. I called out for people o share a taxi when the next ferry got in and despite no one knowing where santa Cruz was I managed to look up eg raindance via hotspot and nearly got in one group then it filled up and I was left out and can't blame then but felt a bit shit and then I flagged my way into another with the driver and don't know if I was welcome or not, though turns out the group of 5 or 6 was actually two or three smaller groups and to be fair no one was rude, but I kept myself to myself and didn't speak unless spoken to given they all seemed relatively cha[y and ha perhaps at least met a few minutes before I turned up so knew each other somewhat. Though to be fair while keeping it together I was in no sparkling form anyway.
And they were also mostly speaking Dutch but for some reason without it being for my benefit they would intermittently switch to English, I half wonder I'd there were some Germans mixed in. All young women except one tall dude who sat right up front. The group who semi kicked me out of their forming taxi crowd (admittedly this taxi was probably better as it went past my door) might actually have been at least in part the Israelis from the post volcano boarding.

I think I will be able to get a bus back when I leave as long as it isnt Sunday. Trying very badly to keep an open mind. Let's just eat and ask the hostel about a towel and a fridge and if I can buy a beer and if I can't buy a beer there I will pop out and get one at the minimalist (minimarket) right opposite which should be dog safe.

I will try uto fond a cash machine tonorrow.

The ferry over was a nix of the young backpackers I have come to irrationally despise, some older than me chunky looking Americans who have appeared out of nowhere (expat community?), some locals and one technically nice enough but very loudly talkative 35ish year old us dude who was telling his entire fucking life story to a Slovenian woman he had obviously just met and giving the rest of us the benefit of it at the same time.

I feel like I have fetched up at a rather desolate spot, which is also simultaneously full of young backpackers having more fun than me and being able to rent scooters without any fear,  and oveprriced to boot. There is an element of worst of all worlds. But I suspect my outlook is just negative as hell.

I did at least pull ymfinger out to the extent of getting a shared taxi for 190 and I clearly did not do the research before coming here, people told me it was good, it was clearly on the tourist trail here, I had no idea the freaking idea of running a bus on Sunday was beyond the wit of local man or that the shared taxi minivn types would be sufficiently retiicent I wouldn't  have them waved in my face and I didn't really know how the transport was supposed to work. To be fair, I am not sure how I would have found this sort of stuff out these days.

And if I can get over the mood and the alight "family hanging round and it feels weirdly inposing" quality the hostel is sort of sesolately majestic (despite being right off the main road) with chickens running round (as there are here, I am kind of glad j ordered beef) and may well have great views for sunset etc, I am just feeling rather short-changed by life again. But maybe it is just the moderate streas of the day and needing food and being at the mercy of the fucking young backpackers crowd in order to just get here after thinking I had shaken that off in Granada.

I hope my food is coming. To be fair it is sufficiently busy in a low grade rural tourist exploiting way @nd a short walk I don't deeply fear dogs or muggers walking back an hour after dark should it come to that.

Oh, this place is restaurant relax. Tk be fair to them, the owner-ish chap seemed low key friendly once I finally got my presence acknowledged, one of the kids took my order in a sort of "on the job training" way and was quite smiley, their food prices are probably not worse than anywhere else and as per above I am not in my sunniest mood.

My back is burned and sore but not agonisingly so, a bit of modest discomdort in bed last night and today with brief walks with backpack on but not terrible and I suspect to mostly got away with it and it will rapidly improve/peel but maybe I do need to be stricter about wearing t shirt when swimming unless it is closer to dawn/dusk than it was at the lake yesterday.

Also tona is listed at 60 here so while I might prefer a beer at the hostel coming here is an option.

One of the locals is unpacking shit from beach bag with London underground logos.  an unofficial bootleg I hope.

1723 the other group of about 7 locals doesn't have any food yet. I think it is a polystyrene container kind of place. But this doesn't bode well for me getting anything soon. My hands feel sticky as fuck - I could have eashed them at hostel but didn't think as was in a rush to get tout and eat - and I am reluctant to ask to wash them here.

1734 although I could eat something and am alert to prospect of low blood sugar type mood issues, I am not actually actively feeling hungry otherwise.

1737 washed hands. No soap or towel. I don't mind rustic and primitive but when I am paying high prices it grates. But I am being a bit unfair of course.

I assume they are cooking ny dinner and that I have ordered and it is just slow. I am fairly sure. But there is some tiny lingering doubt ad I don't want to ask because it would probably look rude.

1740 just taken off the wristband I have been wearing since checking in at the fucking hostel in granada. Maybe this metaphorically symbolise a new phase of the journey.

Ooh, real plates of food are being delivered to the other table. Moderately promising.

1835 food not bad though salad was dtrssed. 230+30 for coke.

Walked back got two beers at mini market and a towel at reception. I think every single person who has shown me a price since I arrived has done so by showing me a calculwtor screen. I think one or two have read it out as well, but the general idea seems to be that fuck, it's a tourist, just show em the figures and don't waste your breath.

Watched sunset over one of the volcano's from west facing tetrace of room and still sitting out now (warm but windy, but it is not hot and sticky so great).  View is nice and some of the sunset colours pretty cool. But I do still feel a bit fucking shit.

I will have the other beer and probably have an early night and try not to put too much pressure on myself tonorrow in terms of hiking or anything or going to the beach (which I saw from the road by reagaurant, it is tiny and very local).

1931 phone screen still intermittently playing up. Intermittently tempted to anap it in half. If this keeps up I might risk taking the wcreen protector off

A likely french guy came sat out on terrace, I said hi and he said something incomprehensible back and at there eating but I don't think it was really rude and I didn't move or try to force w conversation, a couple of dogs also came round and I stroked one a bit, they are presumably used to guests and seemed quite friendly. Might still worry about coming back at midnight but frankly that is not something I expect to happen here

Plan is still to take tonorrow very easily, wander round casually, try to get some cash  try to get my head together. I can stay on here or somewhere else if I want, I do not have to rush to decide if I want to go up either volcano. (The woman with the hot room I mentioned on bus back from apoyo, iirc, was talking about q volcano hike and you get q choice of two and she *must* surely have been talking about ometepe? But she said one people often don't make it to the top as they can't go because of wind (I am sure he is not talking about Santa ana) and she said she started at 530 with her guide (just the two of then) and it was so humid, and I just cannot believe it is like that here, albeit I haven't been here in the morning.

Fwiw neither volcano here is mega high (1500mish?) And maybe you start from? Low down but I wouldn't naively expect either to be tremendously hard. Maybe she was talking about somewhere else. And I don't think she has a warped idea of humid, given she was in fucking granada when she was telling this story, maybe someone might come here first and think it is humid and then get to granada and recalibrate, but it didn't sound like that. Maybe she did mean somewhere else.

That aside, which I could research, do I want to do a volcano here even if my head is together? I have been up volcano's. I do rather intend to so the one in La Union and maybe even try to camp at the top (retninf a tent). Yes I want to push myself and do memorable things but if the volcano here is not a major challenge and not exceptionally beautiful (maybe it is) should I burn willpower on it? Just as with random wanky hostel activities, you cannot just blindly climb every climbable volcano that comes in your path. And if it is challenging, that is tempting but also maybe I do or don't want or need that kind of challenge now. Genuine questions not related to any lingering bitterness or headfuckery.

2059 in hammock. French guy came back and played a little ukulele, not bad in a practice casual kind of way. There is a painy mark which I tired to photo on the underside of the roof which looks very much like a sort of santa claus/bearded elf, and did even before two beers.


2228 moving to bed. Shower first.  Rules of hotel in English only on back of room door are ultra weird and kind of mangled. They're not even arsey. There is stuff in there about danger of contagion and notifying the competent authorities. Not even obvious mistranslations (albeit "host" is maybe used consistently to mean "guest"). Just a sort of weird almost dissociated press type version of a hotel rules sheet.

2236 just had shower. I had glases off, turned water on and a big spider (not a tarantula, but big UK size maybe, chunkyish) started to run out of the shower. I did shriek, but yes, the surprise never goes away. I finishes the shower after I put my glasses on and had a look. I am not exactly happy it's there but not the end of the world. This is vaguely a repeat of the Mexico waterfall lodge thing. I will just have to leave it there in the bathroom tonight and hope it keeps away from me, which to be fair it probably will. Let me dry my glasses off (I accidentally wore them into the shower during the putting then on and observe phase) and have a bit of a squint at it properly.

Yeah, it's on the bathroom door frame where (I am not going to) it would get partly squashed or maimed if I shut the door. I don't like it much but yeah it's OK really.

Mon 0820 been awake a while. Still in room. Didn't sleep great, not terrible. Spider has (ho ho) legged it. Probably for the best, the chances are I will never see it again, if I do I will deal with it and I really didn't like the idea of sitting on the bog with the risk of brushing against it on the doorframe (ditto shaving, cleaning teeth) and setting it on the move again.

P7 screen continues to be intermittently weirdly shit. May be a hardware fault. Maybe be some weird dampness lurking under screen protector in a moleular way that will fix itself. I could and will if necessary take the screen protector off but of course I cannot replace it while on holiday so there is downside. I have has a fairly amount of use out of the p7 but it still barring this kind of shit has life left and is expensive so I don't want to trash it. (Yes in theory it is a mainstream enough model to buy a screen protector from a random kiosk. But since it has a fucking curved screen I know from prior experience a random cheap screen protector, especially tempered glass, is likely to render it unusuable through phantom or missed touches anyway, and while I could probably get something I am reluctant to go down this path if I can avoid it.

Eyes feel a bit bleary. Genuine unsure what to do today or tomorrow. I probably need to avoid rushing into a decision. Go for a walk, eat an overpriced breakfast, try to get cash. I have frankly mixed feelings after Granada but in the absence of any strong inclinations otherwise I probably ought to find the right kind of hostel (and ideally one with few people I already met) and go there while I spend more time on island, not so much as I an desperate for nice social contact but as I am desperate to avoid feeling shit by avoiding stuff etc, but also because maybe it will be a differently congenial spot to hang around mostly solo than here (I do feel better now the spider has gone - I toyed with asking for a glass to get rid of it but even doing that feels weak, it would suck if someone came and got rid of it for me, plus it was in a super inconvenient place and I have no card - and the mixed blessing ruralness of the accom here and the relative peace is not the concern it night otherwise have been) or it might do bike rental or suggest tours or I might pick up (even if only via earwgligging) some ideas on what to do. Because I sort of came here on vague nature tourism grounds and to get the hell out of granada, but although I could read up on it etc without being at a hostel which may push tours, as I think I said last night I am still deeply unclear if I really want to or should push myself to walk up one of the volcanos. It isn't quite the same but I am also frankly not over keen to go swim at the beach here, I mean I might and it would probably be safe and it would be exercise (albeit swimming for exercise feels incomparible with being on holiday and being in slightly intimidating natural encironmwntw where depth is a concern but also waves fuck me up and there is worry about losing stuff) and a minor "hey  I did that" but I also kind of feel honour is mostly satisfied there for the moment after cap Morgan and apoyo.

I could maybe see if I can hire a pedal bike. But even if that might be low key fun, I really don't fancy it today. And yet time feels like it is going to hang extremely heavy today somehow. Maybe the fact the imminent decision on where to go tonorrow is looming makes it harder to just relax and walk a bit and sit in my room and maybe finally repack my bag cleanly or watch a bit of yt or just sit on the balcony and listen to music. I do feel the trip remaining is short and after the last few days I have I think genuinely irrational feelings the trip is now a bust and a failure but on the other hand I don't feel any immense time pressure either. Part of this may simply be that I am feeling lazy (whether for good-ish relax/chill/recharge/not forced to do anything and something will oxcur to me or bad lets-withdraw-from-the-world kind) and disinclined to push myself.

To be clear it does feel like the shittiness of eg granada was mostly a sort of meta shittiness in my head. Nothing really bad happened, I felt a bit out of place but not really for any solid reason or because anything happened or even because I took a mild social risk and it failed or anything. I kind of mainly feel shit about feeling so shit on so little real provocation, a bit like I smashed myself up falling off my bike *on a flat dry road in the middle of summer*. To some extent time and/or action will probably efface this and maybe I can/have learned some incidental stuff from it. Yawning. Maybe this has little to do with me feeling kind of aimless and a bit lost right now and not entirely happy with it.

I think fuck it, I can come back here and do quiet private room and nice view kisten to music whatever shit later, for now it would be productive to get up properly and clean teeth and see if I can find a cash machine and have some kind of breakfast or at least coffee, I am not actively hungry but it might be good for my mood and or for somehow stimulating my brain into reflecting on stuff or doing stuff.

The spider having gone does remind me of Jim(?) Story in an episode of that new York taxi show from the 70s? Where he says he woke up one night to find a tarantula on his chest and someone asks what he did and he says he went back to sleep and it was gone when he woke up and thats that. I mean it is sort of silly and funny but obviously I can't maintain an inventory on every spider migrating around my environment and it came from somewhere it wasn't inponging on my consciousness in the slightest way and statistically it has like returned to another such place.

Getting ready to go out does feel a chore. Sunblock, cleaning teeth, etc. I don't think this is a depression type thing and it certainly isn't new. Having a private room eases this somewhat but it is still a minor tediousness even at home.

1149 just signed up for three hours of kite surfing lessons tomorrow! Serendipity at play, I think. I went for a walk along the beach after failing to get cash at the nearby machine partly for something to do and partly as there is another cash machine at north end of beach. And I saw people kite surfing and I thought that looks cool and felt a bit pissed off I couldn't do it. Then I sort of noticed it looked like people were having lessons and then I came across the actual school and felt a bit weird but went in and spoke to someone about it, who assured me there is no upper age limit and answered various questions and I went off for a walk and didn't get wny cash but had a coffee at hotel at north end of beach and mulled and walked back having pretty much decided I would do it, and I just confirmed via whatsapp. I will extens here for another night if I can.

I also saw a small but quite attractive browny snake on the beach in the walk north. 99% sure it was alive but I luckily didn't tread on it and since I am not an absolute moron I didn't poke it with a stick or try to touch it to see if it was alive.

1857 power cut. I also have a feeling my snake picture didn't get taken, but who knows.

Got 500 dollars out at local atm, had to pay 6 fee bit couldn't be helped, starling chase and Barclaycard all had the same in that machine. Picked dollars as kite surfing is a better price in dollars and it is the basic charging unit. While I am only committing to one day right now, if it goes basically ok and I don't hate it, I do intend to try three days despite the expense.

I came back and extended at hostel for a night for 19 dollars, before doing that I popped round to outside dorm to check price on booking.com ans the giu from last night was there and I chatted with him a while, turns out he is not a French guy with a ukelele, he is an Israeli guy (Noam??) with a chart to, a Bolivian/Peruvian ten stringed (five pairs) instrument.

Went and extended, called parents, went out for lunch at comedor pa malinche (asked for undressed salad, toughish but decent bistec de res with salad and rice and patacones  and a sugar coke and then a black coffee) at wl280 all in then decided I would wander over to value and back which I did, lots of tourist businesses on the road, no stress with dogs. At the far end by Sol y Marea resta<rant inner onto the little beach, stepped down and out my hand out to catch myself on a tree and it turned out to be one of those apiky [rres I think I has pointed out to me on a tour a few years ago and I got some modest puncture wounds in left hand, touch woos nothing serious.

Came back and had a pricey but wtf kombucha (130) at pan de mama then to ocean mart again for excessive amounts of snacks, I won't eat them all but wanted some for tonorrow etc. And I have managed to resist the modest temptaion to drink alcohol today so watched sunset from hammock with Noam strumming his non-ukulele (we didn't chat but felt companionable enough) with a warmish bottle of diet coke and ha e come into room and was going to have a few snacks while watching yt and then prep for tonorrow and cut toenails and that is still the plan but the power cut has put this on hold as I pace the room typing this with the p7 torch on. I did also have a shave before going out to watch sunset.

I think that is the basic gist of everything so far. I am going to re-dress and go with outside given the power cut.

I did top up my claro sim this after oon, no fuss, so I so have modest internet access even with the power cut if I really need it but don't want to waate it on yt.


1911 back in hammock.  Lights do seem to work out here. But maybe they are solar and wifi isn't working so I suspec tit isn't just my room which has lost power.

P7 screen continues shitty for touch but it may be getting slowly better and while frustrating as fuck (particularly scrolling is bad) I haven't ripped the screen protector off yet

I sat at the beach tables at la malinche. Very strong onshore constant wind as had noticed earlier andlresunabky why this is a good spot for kite surfing. It was not too cold and sort of nice albeit a bit odd just how constant and strong it was. I do wnder if tonorrow being at for three hours with this wond, no matter how warm the water, will be an issue but presumably if other people manage so will I and cna only wait and see. I have deliberately not done any significant reading up on kite surfing beyond a token search for reviews of this school, which are minimal but generally good if perhaps not truly independent etc.

It is what it is and the whole thing is about the serendipity f being at this hostel and seeing it and dirk gently ish almost#t being unaware of the thing and passing through wanting and then having super rapidly and kind of calling my own bliff on the "why can't I do that?" Thoughts when it turned out that technically I could.

I don't know if the kite surfing will work but I hope to maintain a good attitude and just trying it will be something. It also aaprt from the nice serendipity angle feels like something which is taking advantage of being here on ometepe and is something I wqnt to try and which appeals more than eg a volcano hike or some random kayak thing, which I may do if I feel like it but which now feel less "necessary" since the kite surfing attempt whether it sicceeds or fails ticks the box for having done something "notable" here, and you can't do everything etc

I may go for a late lunch or a recent at some of the other rhostels eg down the balgue road tomorrow and then I will maybe have some idea if j fancy staying at one eg after kite surfing or if I can't or don't want to stay here. Within moderation it does feel like eg if I am doing kite surfing for three days it is quite nice to be staying here and not forcing myself into a hostle env,  this place eis well located for the kite surfing and it gives me a nice feeling of sort of camping here as a base while I do the lessons.

Lesson is at 11 by the way, they had confirmed tonorrow much earlier but only told me the time when I was back here at hostel just before sunset. I just may have breakfast at the hostel (150ish)

Cicadas or whatever they are going on. Occasionally a bout of heavier similar noise starts up.

It is hot here during the day when not exposed to the breeze from the lake but overall it is a touch hot but not stifling and sticky like granada was

2025 power blipped on a few mins ago but then went again. Tbh I may go back into room anyway and snack by torchlight if it doesn't come on soon anyway.

2115 power came  back about 2050. Been gorging on snacks and watching dled yt, couldn't find actual torch so (and also thinking about battery, albeit yes it is approaching expriu) got the led head attachment and put it on the power bank to get some light in room while watching until power came back.

Feel a bit stuffed and oddly nervy about tomorrow as a result, as if mils overeating of junk tonight has a serious bearing on anything.

I can see the snake photos on A06 so they should have copied over to the p7 via the ish and maybe they have but eg shitty scrolling with screen trouble stops me seeing them or something. Had anotherlook and I think I can now find them on p7 too so that is good.

2133 do feel oddly and quietly nervy. Prob won't have shower tonight but do it tomorrow. Let me cut toenails anyway.

2143 fingernail clippers are not the right tool for the job but I have done my best. Probably irrelevant but also probably due anyway and either tomorrow during lesson or in general may reduce chances of a nail catching or smashing on something. Not done fingernails, they are maybe borderline due but not really I think.

Fwiw I do have my aa powered torch, and I did roughly know where eit was,  I just gave up looking for it when I decided the power bank and torch head was likely a better call here anyway.

If I forgot to say earlier I picked up almost a complete set of broken bits for a mobile phone on the beach on the walk back south. Currently sitting on  table here in room and do have some photos.

2200 ok so I have kind of packed for tomorrow. Ftr while I plan to wear prescription goggles I have switched to my single vision lenses tomorrow just in case I somehow need them and if nothing else they are less valuable than the varifocals. I am definitely getting some general use from the single vision pair on risky or adventurous activity cases.

well I will say that I didn't sign up for kitsurfing in a wave of bravado. While it may be ndefinably scary oor horrible okr dangerus in some way I don't forsee, I was not massively concered at the rik of getting seiosly hurt. Screen o s fucking @iind bigibis eg jumpiinfanomdly bad a nab e née rally acing lke i am swipig when i am no an in shit fucking te time as i. Yay uay] at yay..

2216 going to bed. Feel okish. Will send this now as well overdue.