Sat 20th 2249 FWIW even though mostly o6 GPS works well (and not that I can easily check, but I suspect my every-5-mins GPS tracks are working), GPS tagging of photos it takes never seems to work, judging from spot checking some of them. Which is a bit shit but can't be helped.
(For some reason this morning it decided it wasn't going to work as I was trying to use OM (Organic Maps) round the town centre. But I rebooted it and it started to work again. Generally it has locked on near instantly when using OM.)
2306 Actually in bed. Was thinking this morning in town (v early, pre any "hike" disturbance) - as usual not for first time - about the "philosophy" of travelling:
- Need to not get hung up on media or guide book images of massive fun or "ought to visit everything" etc
- Yes I do want to meet people and do things, but I can't and don't want to meet people and do "big(ish)" things every day.
- Any little experience can be a memory depending how things go. Every day I'm just wandering round in town or making a tentative foray into nearby country with an eye out for dogs is still an experience - I'm seeing the everyday sights, experiencing the weather, seeing the landscape, hearing the language and music, etc etc etc.
- Vaguely tying in with the Aldous Huxley quote about boredom, at least the way I am doing things, I'm tempted to say that while I'm abroad, I don't *have* to do anything. But the flip side is that I don't get to fill my time in the easy habitual (whether "good" or "bad" habits) ways I do when I'm at home.
It's still earlyish days and I am not that "tired" and I have had relaxing-ish evenings in here in Tunja, but as I do become tired and/or as I encounter congenial spots (places, specific accom/people) I do need to allow myself to just have quiet days sitting around reading/watching YT/listening to music/chatting now and then. In moderation this is *still* an experience, even if not a "big" dramatic one, something I wouldn't experience (at least in the same way) at home.
2312 Actually going to lie down and read with intention to sleep. Alarm set for 0830 but may snooze on it, still don't want to be up super late on general principles. This feels like a surprisingly late night by trip standards.
Sun 21st 1902 Been back at accom for maybe an hour or two. Toyed with washing a couple of tops but the underwear from yesterday still not properly dry and I think I'm better off not lumbering myself with more potentially damp stuff tomorrow. Tops are also probably about the easiest thing to wash sneakily, especially if I just give them a water-only wash in a push.
Owner was in when I got back, I finally paid her and she apologised for not having had much time to see me, I said it was fine, etc etc. (It is fine. It has been nice to have some privacy, though I had also contradictorily hoped for a bit of a chat, and it would have been good to get some advice this morning re buses to terminal. But not like she owed me anything and I feel a bit less guilty in case I'd somehow been hiding away too much now.)
Slept OK, did wake before 0830 alarm but snoozed heavily and probably didn't leave until 11ish. I walked over towards the terminal, which isn't *that* far but looks a bit of a slog on rather windy roads. In the end I spotted a bus saying "nuevo terminal" while I was on avenida unversidades or something like that, so I waited a fairly long time and another one did come along and I got on (2.3k) and got to terminal fine. Spoke to a few kiosk staff and basically there's a minibus every hour taking about 4h for 45k. There are also probably coach services for same price but less frequently. (Minor linguistic snafu when I asked the company running the minibuses if there were "buses" (Spanish) and they said no, there were some-word-meaning-minibus. I will make sure to ask about "servicios" or something to try to be generic next time.) There is a possible coach at 1230 but frankly I will probably just go with the minibus option.
After that I walked back into town along calle 18 - there was a white and ginger cat meowing in a scrubby bit but although it looked a tiny bit tatty it didn't look actually bad, and a probably-Colombian couple were also there and paying attention to it so I walked on - it's not as if I had any food anyway, and in the (I hope) unlikely event it did need attention they probably had more chance of doing it than me. Not actually that far (although this is already much further south than my accom) and good to see the area I was photographing from av oriental on my first night. (Slightly scruffy but not bad and not threatening.)
Spent most of the day wandering round. Happening to pass it I got a 1.5k churro ("queso y bocadillo", I presume being the yellow and red things respectively) at the same place as other day. I wandered round a bit, sat on a stone in the main square for maybe 15-30 mins and no one hassled me and watched a little girl ride her scooter from her "papito" (sitting next to me) to the statue thing and back and watching some kids buy pigeon feed from an oldish woman (who was telling some people how her doctor had said she would never walk again; she demonstrated she could walk a bit, I am not sure how happy vs disappointed she was about this) and so forth. Vague irrational recollections of "I sit in the sun" from Salad Days at this point. The usual "what should I actually be doing?" feelings but it was generally quite pleasant sitting there.
Had intended to have coffee at the place I got the white coffee in lieu of tinto the other day but it was locked up every time I passed.
On a whim I went into a Pasteleria Dino or Pan Dino (looked like the pet from Flintstones) and had a couple of white coffee and (after some linguistic difficulty) a couple of rather nice bun things. Wandered round a bit more. Somewhat irrational craving for pizza, perhaps on "won't be available/smart for ages given tourist-orientation+temperature concerns" and having vague irrational fears about new hostel and the trip tomorrow and blah blah. Long story short, after trogging round quite a lot in an attempt to exercise, I went into Comboy pizza (they gave me a fridge magnet thing when I left) and despite asking to see the sizes of the different pizzas I stupidly ordered a "small" (yes, they use English on the menu for this, despite it being a Spanish menu - I guess this is like Starbucks and their "venti" or whatever) instead of a personal pizza (30k vs 17k) because the personal looked tiny.
I always make this mistake. Always. Back home I order big takeaway pizzas, but a) I haven't been gorging on churros and buns all day b) I eat them over multiple hours, reheating them on demand.
I struggled manfully with the pizza, which was quite nice if a smidge bland. I was acutely aware I have a long bus trip tomorrow and in the end despite taking it pretty slowly I left about half of the last slice, which I hated doing but figured it would be foolish to force it down. JUST ORDER THE DAMN PERSONAL NEXT TIME, STEVE! It's not like I couldn't have had further snacks or whatever if I wanted after.
I did wander round (not for first time) to main square after that thinking I would have that aguardiente coffee thing at the place I'd been to before the 1pm tour yesterday. It was open but as it had had an hour or two before there was a vaguely nightclub-ish yellow rope/chain across the front and I saw them let one guy in out of a group of friends, who then came out again. Maybe it was closed for private hire or something, I really don't know. I decided I didn't want to be fussing if they weren't simply open to the public.
I had a last look at the square and felt a bit irrationally sad to be leaving (but as always better that than glad etc etc) and then walked back. No big problems, a couple of guys in suits started to ask how I was at one point on walk back and I was "standard city brusque" with them (sort of replying nicely but keeping on walking), they were probably selling something or charity types or something and I fractionally wish I'd engaged them in chat for practice but at the same time I felt stuffed and I wasn't in the mood for being buttonholed or cajoled into donating etc etc.
Called in at Frutimax for a few more apples (which I really quite enjoyed; had some this morning before heading out too) in an attempt to partially compensate for the pizza.
I think that's everything, can always fill in any recollections later. I need to exercise and repack back but no immediate rush. Been reading a bit on phone since got back and drinking chilled water and I may have an apple or two and watch some YT for a bit.
Intermittent irrational fears as I say about tomorrow, the travel and getting to new hostel and dorm etc. But this is just normal. I was jittery before I came here. Especially when the photos and the general description of the other hostels give me this vague "party" vibe in San Gil, I get this irrational feeling it's going to be an absolute bear pit. The reality is it's going to be busy and I feel a bit lonely-in-a-crowd at worst, and frankly I wouldn't be surprised if the hostel and San Gil in general are not absolutely heaving and if anything it's all fairly low capacity like the hostel in VdL was.
2240 Just had shower. I repacked earlier, need to actually pack properly (half dry clothes, bathroom stuff, water) in morning. It should be fine, I want/need to be off earlyish to allow time for contingency etc but it isn't super critical as I don't have a specific bus ticket. Will aim to be up at 9, earlier if natural but will force it at 9.
FTR when I came to reception at this apartment complex they did ask me to write my passport number in their visitor book thing, though no one checked it. And when I checked in at VdL hostel the woman was super keen to see my passport, though as nearly always the credit card sized copy was accepted with no fuss.
Will be a bit sad to leave. Also as prob leaving keys on table usual kind of stress about forgetting something and it being locked in and me being locked out. Just have to not rush and be careful.
Did force myself to do exercise so that's something.
Dog is sleeping in darkened hallway outside my door, I popped out to get a bottle of cold water from kitchen fridge and almost trod on it, but luckily I noticed the black shape on the floor just in time.
I feel broadly OK, physically and mentally. Since I picked SG based on guide book a weekish ago I have little idea what specifically is there. I just need to relax and not get worked up about what I "should" be doing.
I do hope to resist "I'm on holiday" temptation to snack and over-eat for a few days.
I need to be booking the boat trip and associated flights to/from Panama soon. I will trust this won't sell out and leave it til tomorrow, as rather not be wrestling with it while in transit tomorrow. Gut feeling is I want to time it so I land in Colombia with at least two and probably more like three weeks before my flight. That allows plenty of contigency, a day of two of recuperation if desired and then (while I'm sure there will be some unsatisfactory feeling of rushing) a relatively leisurely probably bus trip back down to Bogota.
(This is a downside of doing boat P-C - had I done it C-P, I'd maybe have some time pressure now but as soon as I landed in P the time pressure would be mostly off - I could if i wanted have simply scheduled the P-C flight for a couple of days before my flight home.)
Having to decide on a date for that and (not a huge issue, as prob cancelling it) flight back from P-C for immigration reasons and try to decide where I'm flying from in C to P and when and how late I can leave booking this is a bit on an ongoing stress and to some extent the sooner I sort it the better. I do feel I'm slightly more stretched than I'd like with not quite as much time in C or P as I'd like, but as waffled before I do want to "try" Panama, and although it may be a year or two the flights to C are cheap enough and direct so it will naturally be tempting to come back here at some point. While I suspect it's unlikely on "life balance" (not particularly financial) grounds, there is of course also a theoretical prospect of a trip later in 2024 as well.
It feels kind of odd to be thinking about end of trip when I'm about 1.5 weeks in. It's fine but this is why a) making a careful decision but b) making it soon and committing and booking things that might sell out or go up - both wrt boat trip and Panama flights - is probably important, as I can then mostly stop thinking about it. The big short term "deadline" will be getting to wherever I book the flight out from on time, which is why it will be tempting to play games and book this late to increase flexibility or to maybe fly from somewhere before Cartagena to eg avoid a long overnight bus just to get to C. Utter no-map speculation but hypothetically if I flew from Bucaramanga and thus skipped Mompos on way out, I could potentially call in at Mompos on my way south from Cartagena at end of trip. But I should move towards bed, even if I watch a bit of YT before trying to go to sleep, instead of thinking about this right now.
2327 Been watching YT, set alarm on O6 for 9 and K1 (which will be reading on in bed) for 830. I hope I don't drag tomorrow morning out too much, do want a solid sleep and do want to shave (forgot today) and pack carefully and eat my remaining apples/banana, but don't want to get to terminal excessively late and ultimately get to new hostel late - ideally I will check in, get my lower bunk, maybe shower and then pop out for a meal before dark.
(For some reason this morning it decided it wasn't going to work as I was trying to use OM (Organic Maps) round the town centre. But I rebooted it and it started to work again. Generally it has locked on near instantly when using OM.)
2306 Actually in bed. Was thinking this morning in town (v early, pre any "hike" disturbance) - as usual not for first time - about the "philosophy" of travelling:
- Need to not get hung up on media or guide book images of massive fun or "ought to visit everything" etc
- Yes I do want to meet people and do things, but I can't and don't want to meet people and do "big(ish)" things every day.
- Any little experience can be a memory depending how things go. Every day I'm just wandering round in town or making a tentative foray into nearby country with an eye out for dogs is still an experience - I'm seeing the everyday sights, experiencing the weather, seeing the landscape, hearing the language and music, etc etc etc.
- Vaguely tying in with the Aldous Huxley quote about boredom, at least the way I am doing things, I'm tempted to say that while I'm abroad, I don't *have* to do anything. But the flip side is that I don't get to fill my time in the easy habitual (whether "good" or "bad" habits) ways I do when I'm at home.
It's still earlyish days and I am not that "tired" and I have had relaxing-ish evenings in here in Tunja, but as I do become tired and/or as I encounter congenial spots (places, specific accom/people) I do need to allow myself to just have quiet days sitting around reading/watching YT/listening to music/chatting now and then. In moderation this is *still* an experience, even if not a "big" dramatic one, something I wouldn't experience (at least in the same way) at home.
2312 Actually going to lie down and read with intention to sleep. Alarm set for 0830 but may snooze on it, still don't want to be up super late on general principles. This feels like a surprisingly late night by trip standards.
Sun 21st 1902 Been back at accom for maybe an hour or two. Toyed with washing a couple of tops but the underwear from yesterday still not properly dry and I think I'm better off not lumbering myself with more potentially damp stuff tomorrow. Tops are also probably about the easiest thing to wash sneakily, especially if I just give them a water-only wash in a push.
Owner was in when I got back, I finally paid her and she apologised for not having had much time to see me, I said it was fine, etc etc. (It is fine. It has been nice to have some privacy, though I had also contradictorily hoped for a bit of a chat, and it would have been good to get some advice this morning re buses to terminal. But not like she owed me anything and I feel a bit less guilty in case I'd somehow been hiding away too much now.)
Slept OK, did wake before 0830 alarm but snoozed heavily and probably didn't leave until 11ish. I walked over towards the terminal, which isn't *that* far but looks a bit of a slog on rather windy roads. In the end I spotted a bus saying "nuevo terminal" while I was on avenida unversidades or something like that, so I waited a fairly long time and another one did come along and I got on (2.3k) and got to terminal fine. Spoke to a few kiosk staff and basically there's a minibus every hour taking about 4h for 45k. There are also probably coach services for same price but less frequently. (Minor linguistic snafu when I asked the company running the minibuses if there were "buses" (Spanish) and they said no, there were some-word-meaning-minibus. I will make sure to ask about "servicios" or something to try to be generic next time.) There is a possible coach at 1230 but frankly I will probably just go with the minibus option.
After that I walked back into town along calle 18 - there was a white and ginger cat meowing in a scrubby bit but although it looked a tiny bit tatty it didn't look actually bad, and a probably-Colombian couple were also there and paying attention to it so I walked on - it's not as if I had any food anyway, and in the (I hope) unlikely event it did need attention they probably had more chance of doing it than me. Not actually that far (although this is already much further south than my accom) and good to see the area I was photographing from av oriental on my first night. (Slightly scruffy but not bad and not threatening.)
Spent most of the day wandering round. Happening to pass it I got a 1.5k churro ("queso y bocadillo", I presume being the yellow and red things respectively) at the same place as other day. I wandered round a bit, sat on a stone in the main square for maybe 15-30 mins and no one hassled me and watched a little girl ride her scooter from her "papito" (sitting next to me) to the statue thing and back and watching some kids buy pigeon feed from an oldish woman (who was telling some people how her doctor had said she would never walk again; she demonstrated she could walk a bit, I am not sure how happy vs disappointed she was about this) and so forth. Vague irrational recollections of "I sit in the sun" from Salad Days at this point. The usual "what should I actually be doing?" feelings but it was generally quite pleasant sitting there.
Had intended to have coffee at the place I got the white coffee in lieu of tinto the other day but it was locked up every time I passed.
On a whim I went into a Pasteleria Dino or Pan Dino (looked like the pet from Flintstones) and had a couple of white coffee and (after some linguistic difficulty) a couple of rather nice bun things. Wandered round a bit more. Somewhat irrational craving for pizza, perhaps on "won't be available/smart for ages given tourist-orientation+temperature concerns" and having vague irrational fears about new hostel and the trip tomorrow and blah blah. Long story short, after trogging round quite a lot in an attempt to exercise, I went into Comboy pizza (they gave me a fridge magnet thing when I left) and despite asking to see the sizes of the different pizzas I stupidly ordered a "small" (yes, they use English on the menu for this, despite it being a Spanish menu - I guess this is like Starbucks and their "venti" or whatever) instead of a personal pizza (30k vs 17k) because the personal looked tiny.
I always make this mistake. Always. Back home I order big takeaway pizzas, but a) I haven't been gorging on churros and buns all day b) I eat them over multiple hours, reheating them on demand.
I struggled manfully with the pizza, which was quite nice if a smidge bland. I was acutely aware I have a long bus trip tomorrow and in the end despite taking it pretty slowly I left about half of the last slice, which I hated doing but figured it would be foolish to force it down. JUST ORDER THE DAMN PERSONAL NEXT TIME, STEVE! It's not like I couldn't have had further snacks or whatever if I wanted after.
I did wander round (not for first time) to main square after that thinking I would have that aguardiente coffee thing at the place I'd been to before the 1pm tour yesterday. It was open but as it had had an hour or two before there was a vaguely nightclub-ish yellow rope/chain across the front and I saw them let one guy in out of a group of friends, who then came out again. Maybe it was closed for private hire or something, I really don't know. I decided I didn't want to be fussing if they weren't simply open to the public.
I had a last look at the square and felt a bit irrationally sad to be leaving (but as always better that than glad etc etc) and then walked back. No big problems, a couple of guys in suits started to ask how I was at one point on walk back and I was "standard city brusque" with them (sort of replying nicely but keeping on walking), they were probably selling something or charity types or something and I fractionally wish I'd engaged them in chat for practice but at the same time I felt stuffed and I wasn't in the mood for being buttonholed or cajoled into donating etc etc.
Called in at Frutimax for a few more apples (which I really quite enjoyed; had some this morning before heading out too) in an attempt to partially compensate for the pizza.
I think that's everything, can always fill in any recollections later. I need to exercise and repack back but no immediate rush. Been reading a bit on phone since got back and drinking chilled water and I may have an apple or two and watch some YT for a bit.
Intermittent irrational fears as I say about tomorrow, the travel and getting to new hostel and dorm etc. But this is just normal. I was jittery before I came here. Especially when the photos and the general description of the other hostels give me this vague "party" vibe in San Gil, I get this irrational feeling it's going to be an absolute bear pit. The reality is it's going to be busy and I feel a bit lonely-in-a-crowd at worst, and frankly I wouldn't be surprised if the hostel and San Gil in general are not absolutely heaving and if anything it's all fairly low capacity like the hostel in VdL was.
2240 Just had shower. I repacked earlier, need to actually pack properly (half dry clothes, bathroom stuff, water) in morning. It should be fine, I want/need to be off earlyish to allow time for contingency etc but it isn't super critical as I don't have a specific bus ticket. Will aim to be up at 9, earlier if natural but will force it at 9.
FTR when I came to reception at this apartment complex they did ask me to write my passport number in their visitor book thing, though no one checked it. And when I checked in at VdL hostel the woman was super keen to see my passport, though as nearly always the credit card sized copy was accepted with no fuss.
Will be a bit sad to leave. Also as prob leaving keys on table usual kind of stress about forgetting something and it being locked in and me being locked out. Just have to not rush and be careful.
Did force myself to do exercise so that's something.
Dog is sleeping in darkened hallway outside my door, I popped out to get a bottle of cold water from kitchen fridge and almost trod on it, but luckily I noticed the black shape on the floor just in time.
I feel broadly OK, physically and mentally. Since I picked SG based on guide book a weekish ago I have little idea what specifically is there. I just need to relax and not get worked up about what I "should" be doing.
I do hope to resist "I'm on holiday" temptation to snack and over-eat for a few days.
I need to be booking the boat trip and associated flights to/from Panama soon. I will trust this won't sell out and leave it til tomorrow, as rather not be wrestling with it while in transit tomorrow. Gut feeling is I want to time it so I land in Colombia with at least two and probably more like three weeks before my flight. That allows plenty of contigency, a day of two of recuperation if desired and then (while I'm sure there will be some unsatisfactory feeling of rushing) a relatively leisurely probably bus trip back down to Bogota.
(This is a downside of doing boat P-C - had I done it C-P, I'd maybe have some time pressure now but as soon as I landed in P the time pressure would be mostly off - I could if i wanted have simply scheduled the P-C flight for a couple of days before my flight home.)
Having to decide on a date for that and (not a huge issue, as prob cancelling it) flight back from P-C for immigration reasons and try to decide where I'm flying from in C to P and when and how late I can leave booking this is a bit on an ongoing stress and to some extent the sooner I sort it the better. I do feel I'm slightly more stretched than I'd like with not quite as much time in C or P as I'd like, but as waffled before I do want to "try" Panama, and although it may be a year or two the flights to C are cheap enough and direct so it will naturally be tempting to come back here at some point. While I suspect it's unlikely on "life balance" (not particularly financial) grounds, there is of course also a theoretical prospect of a trip later in 2024 as well.
It feels kind of odd to be thinking about end of trip when I'm about 1.5 weeks in. It's fine but this is why a) making a careful decision but b) making it soon and committing and booking things that might sell out or go up - both wrt boat trip and Panama flights - is probably important, as I can then mostly stop thinking about it. The big short term "deadline" will be getting to wherever I book the flight out from on time, which is why it will be tempting to play games and book this late to increase flexibility or to maybe fly from somewhere before Cartagena to eg avoid a long overnight bus just to get to C. Utter no-map speculation but hypothetically if I flew from Bucaramanga and thus skipped Mompos on way out, I could potentially call in at Mompos on my way south from Cartagena at end of trip. But I should move towards bed, even if I watch a bit of YT before trying to go to sleep, instead of thinking about this right now.
2327 Been watching YT, set alarm on O6 for 9 and K1 (which will be reading on in bed) for 830. I hope I don't drag tomorrow morning out too much, do want a solid sleep and do want to shave (forgot today) and pack carefully and eat my remaining apples/banana, but don't want to get to terminal excessively late and ultimately get to new hostel late - ideally I will check in, get my lower bunk, maybe shower and then pop out for a meal before dark.
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