Tuesday, 4 March 2025

San Cristobal-Campeche and Campeche, Monday

Sat 1652 At terminal. bus goes 1730.

Didn't sleep super well but to be fair I was probably asleep not long after 10 so waking up about 5ish and then struggling to get back to sleep is not necessarily that bad.

Got up about 0730 I think, ended up having a bit of a chat (mostly listening, as it touched on politics and naturally I didn't share my opinion) with owner Sergio and a 60ish Canadian guy over breakfast.

Was hanging round a bit waiting to say goodbye to Max, Cafecita, Lewis and the two French guys (Laurent and Simon?) - bit awkward as it isn't as if we're bosom buddies but i did want to and it was ok. I guzzled some Mani garapinado and booked bus and hostel (went for cheapish dorm option, partly to keep costs down and partly for social and maybe tour reasons) and after saying goodbye I finished packing and left bag at reception, was allowed to keep key during the day. I asked Sergio and he said el mirador aka MontaƱa Don Lauro was maybe dodgy "in the afternoon", I took the o6 with me instead of p7 just in case.

Incidentally o6 charging port is struggling to retain either of my cables, I suspect a dust or dirt build up which I am not likely to be able to get cleanss out while on trip.

I got a bit lost and mildly whiny trying to find the start of the path but I asked and also during walk up I got a bit confused and was worried some random dog or irate farmer would have a fit but it was fine. I maybe didn't see the perfect lookout point as on way heading down I went off to one side a bit and then changed my mind but some locals (who i spoke to briefly about route down) were sitting on top of a big rock. Still, I did go, I did see the view (albeit only spent about 15 mins there, after maybe 2h getting there) and maybe will go again with less stress another day in future. (Also has it not been for hanging round to say goodbye and checkout/onward booking stuff, I could probably have headed out an hour or even two earlier.)

I guzzled more Mani garapinado at top and on walk back onto town I started to feel a bit of stomach ache which has come and gone during remainder of time. I did have a diet coke on walk and eventually had a couple of white coffees and a pizza. I didn't buy an emparedado de chocolate as I had half planned. My stomach feels a tiny bit funny now which isn't great but fingers crossed this is just a mild bit of overeating or poor diet and nothing like last time. I don't feel that bad, there is maybe an element of slight worry about it being bad making it worse.

Hostel checkin is nominally 10 so that may somewhat ease the night bus pain given I think we are due in about 7.

When got back into town I tried to go to Pachamama but no tables, went to kukulpan for coffee but no tables. Had a coffee in Pizza Da Tito then went back to hostel and swapped phones (o6 nearly dead) and went back out and had pizza at Pachamama and coffee at Kukulpan and then back to hotel where had brief chat with woman I'd met Thursday night briefly who had been to see carnival at San Juan chamula (no signs of carnival in San cris itself btw) and got key deposit back and cleaned teeth inc flossing and used toilet and headed out to terminal.

Not looking forward to it maybe being mega hot in campeche and rest of trip but it will be sort of nice before returning to maybe coolish London and I wouldhope there will be aircon generally and I think the dorm is supposed to be.

Perhaps a bit perfunctory but I think that more or less catches me up.

1707 was feeling a bit sad but also a bit stressed sitting in kukulpan. But usual wafflings apply.

I have mani garapinado but also bought some of the roles de canela at super mas on way back to hostel second time to get back, so I do have snacks if desperate.

My bus is waiting outside, final destination merida.

Some sort of Karakte kid cobra kai spin off on TV here, as it may have been last time.

1715 Bus just called.

1722 on bus. I had to put my main bag in the boot but fingers crossed I have got everything I need. And this is maybe better WRT risk of theft overnight.

Feel a bit head-ache-y but I suspect this is mainly getting worked up a bit.

With a little bit of luck this is the last really long bus and the last night bus of the trip. Some film about a genie is on and slightly too loud.

(I might have preferred to pay the very small extra for the ado gl bus, but iirc it left earlier and got in earlier so wasn't as convenient. This is an occ.)

Two youngish English women and an English bloke are sitting near me. I hope they don't talk too much as for no good reason I may find them annoying.

A tiny bit stressed about "health" but not too bad. Plus of course in terms of any mental health wobbles I am at least heading towards home and will be flying back in about 10 days.

Will put nc headphones on when bus goes, though with this fucking super loud film even those plus music is going to struggle. I guess they will at least turn the fucking film off about midnight.

Obviously I could be feeling healthier and this would be less stressful but fingers crossed I don't feel that bad and short of flying (which is stressful in its own way) I have to do this bus or something very like it to get home. I could eg have gone via palenque but that is about 8 fuckkng hours and the bus got in at about 6pm so more or less dark and I don't really desperately want to waste a couple of nights in palenque right now.

This film is a fucking musical and that really doesn't help with the high volume.

1732 bloke has got on and is sitting next to me but not end of world. Bus seems pretty full.

1736 off.

1738 fwiw "Cruz de navajas" was playing when I went into kukulpan for that last coffee.

Do feel a bit edgy but it isn't as if I haven't been on a bloody night bus before or even recently. And I don't feel overly ill.

1757 fwiw there was talk about the planetary alignment last night. Most people seem to be a bit mystical astrological spiritually inclined. I didn't say much.

1833 film finishing. Might be Disney Aladdin. Will Smith was in credits but I didn't recognise him.

1852 at Tuxtla. I went to bog and opened it and a woman was in there. Just been again on grounds it is nicer to go when bus isn't moving. Mildly disgusting in there.

Not feeling too bad, mild gut "ache" but touch wood nothing major. Not really churning or anything. Just a piss by the way and since we aren't moving I stood up to avoid getting whatever is all over the floor on my trousers, I changed to the fresh grey ones last night BTW. The Velcro pockets on right knee and back right suck but otherwise I think these are looser and more comfortable than black, if perhaps not quite so "smart".

Mouth feels a bit sticky despite having cleaned teeth once flossing before leaving hostel and not eaten anything since.

1904 driver might have ibspected toilet and some woman just got on with a mop. Maybe someone complained or maybe this is normal. Mind you, she has already done her mopping in the time it took me to write this.

FWIW saw a woman wearing plastic leather-ish trousers on walk over to el mirador trail, and then later a woman wearing a dress of similar material in centre of town. Just coincidence or could there be some connection? Not massively shocking or weird but unusual enough two on one day struck me.

1911 can we just go? Anyway, bloke next to me got off when we got in but a woman just got on.suppose really am in no rush. In some loose way it would be nicer to be off the bus on case I get Ill and even on general grounds, on the other hand I can't check in any earlier so on some sense getting in an hour or two late (not that I think we will) is almost no bad thing.

1914 some vendors on, vaguely tempted to buy eg a cold coke but tbh I still have water, I don't really want sugar or phosphoric acid all over my teeth all night if i can help it.

Not a novel observation but fwiw I eat way more sugary junky snacks and drink far more sugary and/or artifically sweetened soft drinks (as well as kind of more beer, at least more often) on holiday. Not that big a deal but FWIW.
Obviously being out in heat plays a part but in theory I could buy cold water or just make do with warm. There is naturally an "I am on holiday" feeling, plus things like pastries at a bakery feel vaguely affordable here in a way they don't at home.

1923 driver just counted heads. Maybe we are going soon.

The video system on the bus appears to be running windows XP. There was a shutdown sequence for whatever reason when we got in to tuxtla. That was so long ago XP was probably still in its support period. Badoom-tish.

1926 we are moving! The driver said 10 mins here when we pulled in BTW. Not really complaining, just saying.

2103 jersey boys been on for a while. Just might have watched it but it was actually a little low volume ironically enough and it was painful to listen especially on Spanish. We have stopped for a document check (on bus, as usual).

Guts actually feel 95%+, touch wood don't jinx it. Lips and maybe teeth still feel illogically sticky.

2106 off again. Route according to spot OM observation seems rather long way round.

2305 Villahermosa. Not sure but toilet on bus might not be working, but it might. Got off and used free toilet at terminal.

Vague nagging "oh, I did X wrong" doubts floating round my head but nothing too major.

Guy selling coke and cold water and snacks on bus but resisting temptation, on teeth and possible toilet concern grounds.

2325 still here. Ultra loud comedy suddenly started playing over speakers for some reason. (No video, monitors are folded up.) The Friends theme music played (in English) and I wonder if this is a spanish dub of an episode.

Bum hurts a bit from sitting.

No huge plans for Sunday except staying awake and wandering round a bit. Vaguely fantasising about food and cold drinks.

Screen protector on p7 increasingly fucked.

2336 driver counting heads. I think one of the English girls asked him to stop the friends audio a few mins ago BTW. It certainly did stop.

2337 off

2247 having a few Tic Tacs. Feeling vaguely hacked off but in that general night bus misery way, not mh wobbles. I suppose at least I am "riding some bus" as ff3w puts it, even if in paper this is way too luxurious.

Sun 0301 ciudad del Carmen, on that little island I half wanted to visit. Thought we might come through here. Nothing to see at 3am of course.. Been asleepish. Not feeling amazing but not tterrible. Woman selling coffee but I hope to drift back to sleep.

0332 driver counting heads. Woman next to me got off when we got here and no one is in that seat yet.

190km as crow flies to Campeche City so we probably will arrive vaguely 6ish (ticket doesn't show arrival time, I think) as I expected, maybe 645 if I had to guess what the website said when I bought it. So it should be daylight.

0358 island looks OK afaict. Maybe on a future trip given it is in the main bus route. Some carnival signs in town. Hope I am not going to get accidentally shafted wrt accom during next week. Will probably try to go back to sleep.

0631 pulling into Campeche. Bit of a womb situation bit not too bad and at least it is daylight.

0814 at luan for coffee and to use toilet. Bit expensive but been standing outside hostel since 0715ish, there is no bell and no response to my whatsapp message. I am not AFAIK "entitled" to 24h reception so I can't hold this against them but it is annoying. Not too worked up tbh. Guzzled some Mani garapinado while standing outside. It is 80ish for a large latte here but wtf, I am paying for toilet and somewhere to be as much as the coffee.

V quiet on walk over from terminal, I guess it is both early and Sunday.

English women and probably bloke too didn't afaics get off bus here, so I assume they were going on to merida (next and final stop iirc)

0822 got admittedly fairly big latte (I did order the largest though and it is not elephantine) and the courtyard is quite nice and I feel slightly chilled etc.

1050 been for a walk. Back at hostel. No sign of reception. Another guest let me in again. Ffs. Toppkng up phone then will go out.

It is hot. Atmosphere in town (historic centre) is a bit weird, relatively few people about although maybe getting busier. Walked along malecon and almost deserted though was one guy throwing a net in to fish. I feel hot and sweaty but in part this will be having been on bus and not showering, not just local climate. Town is sort of attractive, very mixed feelings.

Bus mildly warm and sweaty all the time, except about 5am it did feel a bit cold and I put my fleece on.

1128 at fresh n green for a cappuchino because the price is listed (50) and why the fuck not. Then will go see if I can eat somewhere. It all feels not massively gringo oriented but expensive ishly Spanish speaking touristy with a touch of English in some menus.

Staff guy turned up about 1045 or 11. tbh don't like his attitude. He didn't apologise even slightly for being late. He told me check in was at 3 and when I showed him the booking. Com email he said (in Spanish, not quite sure) something to the effect that yes you can check in from 10 - no you can't, no one was there - but you can't get a bed til 3. This all feels like a load of made up shot. If you can't get a bed til 3 maybe dair enough but I am not sure that qualifies as checking in at 10 and it damn well doesn't if there is no one at reception.

He told me no lower beds but then I think I have got one since I didn't need to have it now but could wait for it to be made up. I don't have a key or a locker but have brought passport out with me and will ask about a key when I go back.

Except for saying mostly I'm passing when he asked how I had got in - his manner wa s not angry but broadly unhelpful - I said I had been waiting since 7 (not in a massively indignant way) and had come back at 10 and someone had let me in. (You are not supposed to let other people in and there are stroppy signs, this is basically fair enough but I didn't want to get anyone in trojble5 for helping me out.)

A few other guests loitering round courtyard, maybe that is the thing to do here. I am not exactly hacked off but I am probably in a funny mood and feeling uncomfortable and sweaty and I don't really know what to make of the hostel or the town but am trying to withhold judgement.

I was already fairly sure the place was going to get no review rather than a good one  at the moment I am teetering on the brink of actually leaving a mildly bad review but I am probably still in the "just leave no review" camp. See how it goes.

I generally did my beat to act friendly with the reception guy and eg thanked him when I left. No point burning bridges.

Some sort of remix? Of Alphaville forever young coming from inside.

Guts oscillates between feeling fine and vaguely slightly "sore". Probably generally fine.

1155 wrt prices I probably need to remember this is a boggish city and also that I am no longer in Chiapas, which is supposedly relatively cheap.

Laura Brannigan self control playing inside.

Finished capuccino, not bad. Had look on Google maps earlier and probably going to go for lunch at a Chinese express place inside a bit supermarket. I suspect it will be air conditioned, and then I may come back into historic centre and go onto one of the museums I saw earlier and perhaps risk a taco from a cheapish looking place I saw as a bonus bit of food, but not as my main meal.

1614 on Terrace. Bit discombobulated.

Another guest has given me door entry code, no sign of arsehole staff guy and I still don't have a locker key or (if I need one) door key. Tbs guest said he was out late night for carnival and I am a bit worried I am going to get shafted accom wise wrt carnival. I don't see much obvious sign of it round down unless you count vaguely partyish junk on street on malecon but that could be from any Saturday night.

I have clean bed and a sheet and have charged phones a bit. Fucking hating on screen keyboard. I cleaned teeth but haven't had a shower yet, waiting for nearer sunset.

I did go over to that Chinese before I came back to hostel, it was OK. I saw a burger place very cheap which was rammed so thought I might go back, I went there to  a walk after my teeth cleaning but it was shut. Got a couple of cans of superior at an oxxo and put them in the fridge for post zhowef.

I saw an Olympic swimming pool earlier but you need a swimming cap to swim, it is only open weekdays (and not from  12-3, despite having a sun shade roof),  you need two photos and a medical certificate to join and there is a membership fee and an insanely high charge for a membership based high many times you want to swim a month. No sign of a simple payg option, plus there is the bathing cap issue. I just may wander over there tomorrow and see if I can talk to someone.

Museo Palacio closed, Maya architecture muaeim was open (free to everyone Sundays except us scumbag foreigners, who have to pay 75) and it was quite bad, I thought you weren't allowed to take photos due to a confusing icon which probably just meant no flash but in a way it was a relief not to be trying to snap everything.

I have no idea what to do tonight or tomorrow. The city is kind of sort of nice - I saw a local market on way to Chinese, outside walled city - but it is hot as hell (as am sure Cancun and Valladolid and Merida will be) and I am not sure there is much to do and the idea of trying to dick around with daytrips out of town on collectivo especially to a cenote with theft of gear concerns and maybe carnival /public holiday on top is not appealing.

Screen protector is increasingly fucked.

I dont have to decide today. Best to sleep on it.

1705 had shower and V bad shave, despite blade only having one use in it. Didn't remember I had been given a towel so used my lacktowl. Do feel better but still a bit "wtf to do". I guess tonight I will go out for a wander shortly after dark and see and probably aim for an early night. Tomorrow I can think about tomorrow. Quick check on booking suggests dorm bed here for tue night is a bit cheaper than I am paying so maybe carnival not an issue.

Wearing flip flops, trousers and red short sleeved shirt. Cooler now there is no real sun at least here in courtyard and stretches out wear of long sleeve tops and socks.

Quick web search says carnival runs to 4 Mar, which is Tuesday. So I guess I am prob OK, and I may extend tomorrow morning if I can and sleep OK. And maybe this is good as it may mean some lively stuff on street tonight and tomorrow and tue if I am here so i can tourist it up without having to work too hard.

P7 takes fucking forever to charge and I haven't got it any higher than 30% despite leaving it to charge on bed earlier and during shower.

There is only one table table on the big terrace

Mon 1648 round back of hostel on quiet terrace, front one is fairly busy. I have this vague ill-defined sense of guilt for I think no really good reason.

As I was writing that last night a Scottish guy (Mark) sat down and said hi and then an English woman (Ella) heard us talking and realised we were both British and joined in and long story short we went out for drinks with an American woman called I think Donna and I ended up having quite a long intense conversation with M&E (Donna went off to some dance thing earlyish)  and towards end of evening we got chatting to some Mexicans at next table and they invites us to go on to some place but we didn't as Ella had to get a 3am bus so we went back to hostel and stayed on terrace chatting and she was packing and I hope we didn't keep anyone awake but no one has said anything.

This morning I woke up and phone has (as it turned out) fallen off bunk and so I could see it was daylight but had no idea what time it was so I was sort of crawling around all over the bed trying to find it. I did  a bit later woman in top bunk asked me nicely enough if I could stop (can't remember word) shaking the bed as it was making her want to vomit and I thinking it was something I was doing in my sleep said I would try but I couldn't consciously control it and then a bit later I realised she probably meant the crawling around looking for phone and I asked her a bit later when she came back and she said yea I had been doing it then not in middle of night so I said oh sure, yes sorry, I was looking for my phone and I sis t realise it would have the best and I can stop doing it. (Ish) But I think this is contributing to a vague sense of disquiet and feeling awkward.

I had a chat with Mark when he came out of his dorm and that was all very amicable yet again I have this horrible feeling I was an arse last night even though I probably wasn't.

In course of chat with him we discussed where I night go next and he said there is a cenote in centre of Valladolid and I thought I would go there but it turns out there is no direct bus (he looked, I haven't double checked yet) so I might go ans spend two nights in Merida then go on to Valladolid. My gut feeling after talking to him is J silk maybe do a quick check of buses and accom tonight but try not to be up too late and book it tomorrow morning after sleeping on it. This is only a couple of hours on the bus I think.

I vaguely hung around hostel wasting time and then finally dragged myself out to walk over to the fort. I saw kn organic maps a few metres from hostel it was closed but was too lazy and stupid to go back to hostel to check kn web, so I walked over and it was shut. no explanation at actual site but OM says shut Monday. I did half expect this but I had nothing else to do and it was exercise. I then walked rouns to the Bateria San Luis,that had a closed gate which was slightly ajar and not locked so I could have gone it but I didn't dare. I then walked back over to the Chinese place I ate in yesterday (filling and aid conditioned) and came back to hoatel.

I did a quick cold water wash of red t shirt in a sink round the back here before heading out to fort and it is already dry. I was wearing it and flip flops yday post shower when talking to m&e and kept it in to go out, but I did go put shoes on.

I didn't go over to the pool to talk to them.

Gut feeling is I am leaving tomorrow. There is this weird feeling I am actively unpopular here/have done something wrong which it would be nice to leave behind, I am not so desperate to go into the fort that I really want to try again tomorrow and there isn't really much else I am desperate to do. And since I am now probably going to both Merida and Valladolid it probably makes sense to not waste a night here when I am against the clock with my upcoming flight. Carnival does not seem to be much of a thing so missing it here on Tuesday night is hardly a big deal.

1829 on deserted terrace where was sitting last night. Was bhaier earlier but not now. Vague paranoid ideas everyone else has gone out to see something carnivalish and I am missing out. But this is inconsistent given I kind of want to avoid everyone insofar as I have this feeling I have pissed people off a bit.

Wasn't going to have a drink but I have one can of superior left from day and will have it since I am probably leaving tkmorrow.

There is a direct train here to Valladolid but only 2 a day at slightly crappy times and it is expensive (I expect) and the stations are probably not super convenient either so I will probably stick with bus to merida.

Did a water only wash of couple pairs socks and a set of uw and a top a bit hastily after shower. Better than nothing and with luck they will dry ok overnight and/or in whatever sun is around tomorrow morning.

It did feel hot today but either in reality or due to psychology or bodily adaption it didn't feel quite as awfully stifling/sticky as it did yesterday.

I will observe that although a smidge earlier in the day yesterday, this terrace was also deserted yesterday when mark came and sat down and talked to me.

Tue 1001 Just booked a hotel private room in Merida. I'm doing voice typing on the hospital terrace. I met Mark again last night and we went out while he ate and I just had a soft drink. I did drink a beer on the terrace because I had it in the fridge and I wanted to use it. Oops, I'm probably leaving tomorrow but I didn't otherwise drink. We then went on to see some carnivlish and performing at the conference centre. I will paste it later. I do have a photo on Mark's phone of one song recognition he got off Spotify, so that will have that in if I forget to put it in.

Went to bed, probably about 11-ish, fell asleep relatively quickly. I think I might not slept too badly, but then I woke up in the night and it was a bit air-conditioning cold, but I didn't want to get up. Maybe I just went to bed early and so I was waking up earlier. And then, you know, could have or should have got up.

So I had a bit of a chat with Mark this morning. I've gone and collected the clothes I washed. I've done a tiny bit packing. I'm charging up my headphones on the bed. I'm currently thinking I'm going to get the one o'clock bus to Marida gets in about half three. The checking at the hotel is three so it's probably about 15 minutes walk so I'll be there by four and then you know that gives me an hour or two to wander around and I'll have the whole day there tomorrow and I can do a bit of admin type chores like booking the flight seat with the private room and so on.

I did toy with doing a hostel mark, told me one he stayed in, and he said it was very quiet, but nice enough. It would have been about half the cost. I'm paying about $800, $900, probably more like $900 for this while on a hostile for about $400, but it would be nice to have a private. It would also be nice. I'm not that excited to meet more people that's been going well lately, but a bit of quiet time would be nice, maybe not drink for a day or two.

I also found that I heard a pop when I pushed something into my bag the other day and I think fingers crossed it turns out it was a pan canella which I just found loose fortunately intact but not in any plastic bag in my backpack while I was packing a bit so I guzzled that and hopefully there's not too much mess in nothing like the life straw bottle popped and I will probably take advantage of the private room to empty out the backpack and just check it's not dirty in there with grease or anything

I haven't booked the bus yet. I might do that before I go. I'm not going over to the fort. Even if I'd got a bit earlier, there wouldn't really have been time. It would have been rushed and unpleasant. And as it is, I'd probably just get there in time to turn around and come back. I'm not desperate. It would be nice to go inside, but I will do it on another visit. And if I don't do it, that's fine. I did have a go yesterday. It's fine. Given the time constraints and the fact I fly back a week today, I can't afford to just go throwing extra days in here and there.

It's been far too long since I actually posted this. I'm worried about losing it because the sync to my serrver is just, I think, it's never going to catch up with the videos. It's taking forever to sync all the videos I took at the falls have really bloated my storage. So I really want to get this sent because otherwise the chances are it might get lost if I lose the phone or something. So I may send this now and start a fresh one.

Perhaps stating the obvious, the reason it never got posted is things like the night bus and then the last two nights i have been out. It's all good right, it's good reasons stuff to be happening but it just has meant that I haven't got this posted so let's send it now.

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