Iquique, Wednesday

1224 Sprang awake about 0830 wondering WTF I was. Drowsed heavily til about 1120. Had a shower, sorting clothes out for laundry and then will go out.

La Camisa Negra playing below.

1254 Guy at desk told me where there was probably a laundrette. Just dropped clothes off, CLP2300, and can pick up at 7 tonight (they're open til 8). They are closed tomorrow but can pick up day after if necessary.

American guy at desk politely commented on my Spanish accent and gave me a tip while asking helpful chap about laundrette. Feeling a little off kilter so hope I didn't come across as rude.

Probably not doing paragliding; quick look at guide books suggest you don't just walk into an office off the street and book it, you need to phone or go to web sites. Also heard some SYTs who I think were discussing doing it on terrace as I left hostel.

Muscles still hurting from the sandboarding, amazingly enough.

Anyway, gonna wander down the coast road and just browse around. Are some museums and the like here but nothing astounding so let's give serendipity a chance. Feeling a bit down and could do with some kind of boost.

1307 Well, thanks serendipity. Wandering down the street and saw Purovuelo paragliding place (Baquedano nr corner Riquelme). Just been in and had a chat with the fairly nice English speaking chap and they're picking me up at hostel 10-1015 am tomorrow. CLP35k and I pay after. I can take pictures in the air apparently, though not too sure about that. (I can see myself dropping the damn thing even if nothing else.) Apparently you fly for about 25-30 mins. Have a light breakfast (I shall have nowt) and don't eat milk or cheese. They don't offer insurance. I think I am probably already covered on my Trailfinders policy but gonna go back to hostel now and check.

1427 FFS. TF policy covers parasailing and parascending explicitly, not paragliding. Web searching follows. Lots of cover available but most of it seems aimed at people who plan to do it solo. Also seems like most of it has to be taken out before you leave the UK.

So hunted out a call centre and called TF. Just gone 5 in UK so insurance company not available to confirm. Guy on phone helpful, gonna email me when he calls them 9 tomorrow. He is also going to automatically pay any extra premium up to £50 on my credit card. Could have done without uncertainty but hey.

Bit worried after reading about risks but I think a lot of it is based on solo stuff and people pushing things. Suspect I am not running an enormous risk.

Quarter chicken, chips and rice for CLP2500 (plus 500 tip) at La Cantonesa, corner Ramirez and Zegers.

1722 At Restaurante 680 on Ramirez nr corner Tomas (?). Basically a bar. Walked miles along sea front and back. Expected to find a bar or cafe but nothing except the odd kiosk. Had a bottle of diet coke. Feet killing me and this schop slipping down almost too well.

Bit worried about tomorrow but trying not too. I am obviously just focussing on all the possible shit outcomes (broken leg or neck) regardless of how likely they are, as always. Wondering if I'm with a reputable company, but they at least claim to be a member of some relevant looking organisation and the guide books didn't go on about the importance of using only recommended companies. Rough Guide doesn't seem to harp on how dangerous it is.

Ignoring actual risks, I expect to be scared shitless for the first few minutes, then relax and enjoy it. I fucking hope I don't spend the entire time scared shitless... I assume you land on the beach and although I'm sure there's sand and sand, I was impressed at how relatively soft the stuff was while sandboarding. So I guess breaking something on landing (my inexpert guess at the most likely source of injury) is less likely than doing a parachute jump or similar in the UK when you'd be landing on (I assume) grass.

Obviously can't risk much if any beer tonight. Time may hang a bit heavy but sure it will be fine. Do at least have internet access. Need to be up early (say 7am, ie 10am UK time) to check e-mail and if necessary try to sort out alternate insurance. Must say I half expect it to be included given they include parascending/parasailing, and the bloke on the phone seemed moderately confident that if there was an extra premium it wouldn't be as much as £50. If I can't get insurance I am not doing it, even if it means wasting the CLP35k I will owe the company. I'd like to do it, but that *would* be stupid, I think.

1751 Just got another. Will nurse this a little then go pick up clothes and go back to hostel.

Waitress just asked where I was from and we had a little chat (in Spanish). She's Colombian.

1809 Mana playing. Angel de amor I think.

1841 Paying. CLP2200, will make it 2500.

On corner of *Thomson* and Ramirez.

1957 Back at hostel. Bit of chat with the owner (?), new staff (owner said she was training them up) and new French guest at reception when they saw I had my parcel of laundry.

Phone was nearly dead, in part due to taking GPS track of today's wanderings. Been charging it and sorting out photos to upload. (In part in case I drop the camera tomorrow.)

Been over all the paragliding entries across continent in Rough Guide. None say it's dangerous, and I also re-read the description of the Potosi mines and the tours therefore, which puts the wind up me even now, to put things in perspective. It also says that Iquique has '*soft*, extensive dunes' (my emphasis) so I think I probably shouldn't worry too much. I just hope Trailfinders do come through OK one way or another on insurance.

Am a little worried I will physically shit myself or something but I guess a) I probably won't because b) most people presumably don't and c) if I did, it's nothing compared to a broken leg. A little temporary embarrasment. Will probably have one or two beers tonight but nothing insane. Not going to eat again before I do it so I might hope there will be little available to come out of any orifices unbidden. As I said earlier, assuming I am allowed to and don't bottle it at the first hurdle (I assume there is some kind of running off the cliff edge business), I expect several seconds of panic and then it will probably be fun. Yeah, you keep telling yourself that Stevey boy!

Gonna leave laptop uploading and pop out to buy some water, then will maybe go out for a drink in an hour or so.

2029 Been to supermarket. First time been in proper big foreign supermarket since Buenos Aires, I think. Got two bottles of water, bag of crisps and some biscuits. The latter two may be a useful snack tomorrow morning or tonight, though I do hope not to be eating too near the time or too substantially.

Do feel a bit sweaty but I had a shower this morning and it seems a waste to change my clothes now, or to have a shower and not change my clothes.

2141 At a bar on corner of Baquedano and err dunno. Next door to the somewhat heaving Ronny Tequila; this is practically deserted. Got table out with schop (looks like a pint glass, probably Cristal) and free popcorn. No tables free at Ronny Tequila and this may be better for tonight anyway.

Went to check out Vampiros Motorcycle Club at Thompson 104 (Bradt guide). Rather seedy street and it's either not there any more or it's one of those low key bars which don't have their name outside and it's not open yet.

A few bars in Baquedano (which, along with the plaza, is quite elegant; must bring camera here tomorrow) so come here. Felt a bit lacking in choice but it's earlyish and only Wed. Maybe tomorrow night will be better. Rough Guide pointed out one bar just south of hostel which would have been more convenient but wanted to explore a bit. Beyond that RG just mentioned bars near sea front and as per earlier blog I couldn't see those (even closed) earlier.

At least western part of town has signs saying things like 'tsunami risk zone' and 'tsunami evacuation route'. Joy. ;-)

2158 Going to wear contacts tomorrow. Believe will keep passport with me in hidden belt but not sure. Will probably leave phone at hostel though; I think they are going to take me back there after.

Am a bit nervous but also sort of looking forward to it; I do hope TF don't throw a spanner in the works. Despite soft sand do have slightly nasty visions of leg being caught in an odd orientation on landing and smashing unpleasantly, but I guess it's not likely; for all I know the speed on landing is pretty low.

I guess in principle there could also be an accident on launch or during the flight but I somehow am not quite so worried about that.

I do wish I didn't even think like this; I am sure the average SYT wouldn't. Still, I am a lot better than I was before the sandboarding (not that there's any evidence, thanks to that post getting lost).

Really don't want to be haring round trying to phone TF tomorrow at 8am here. I should maybe look into Skype for a future trip, though the Skype app seems a bit dodgy on my phone these days (dropouts; it used to work perfectly six months or so ago). It might be the answer to the sheer nuisance of needing to phone back to the UK; I guess their rates are likely to be at least as low as call centres and the convenience is better. OK, you won't always have wifi in a hostel and they may (guessing) block Skype or just be too slow for it, but it would be a valuable extra option (if, as I say, the app worked). I suppose I could look into installing it on my laptop.

Not hungry but I could eat something. Trying not to eat more than one main meal a day so probably wouldn't even without paragliding tomorrow. Will probably scarf down those crisps when I get back; spike that salt intake, baby!

Assuming I survive paragliding intact ;-) vague plan for tomorrow is to wander round (taking in Baquedano and the plaza with camera) and take what comes, a bit like today except not on the sea front. Not going to go out of my way to any museums but if any fall in my way may go.

Guide book says is 26h by bus to Santiago, so I guess I shall aim to stop off midway, maybe at Copiapo (about 16h). Need to look into that and maybe buy a ticket tomorrow; I want an overnight bus, but I bet they all are.

From memory comparing with earlier itinerary, not going to Antofagasta as no cheap online bookable accommodation there. May or may not make Vina del Mar/Valparaiso simply due to lack of time. Think I got most other stuff in and think I've done a fairly good variant on that itinerary (if it's not too soon to judge) and it was just a rough plan and not meant to be a straitjacket.

2217 Muscles still sore from sandboarding, including arms and wrists. I am perhaps a little weak there but I assume all I need to do tomorrow is hold onto some straps across my chest. I do remember failing to do that and flailing my arms like buggery when taking off on that glider flight way back when. I hope I won't do that tomorrow. I guess the sensation may be different. It occurs to me (hope springs eternal ;-) ) that we just may not take off from a substantial precipice. I guess you need a bit of altitude before you can catch a thermal though. Occurs to me just now that it may well be a case of taking off from the top of/starting to run down a steep dune; that is superficially plausible and would be a lot less scary too (if the takeoff fails, you just tumble down the dune). We shall see, if the insurance comes through.

Bit of a breeze all of a sudden and very slightly chilly.

Oh, bowels been behaving themselves for last day or two. Will take an Immodium tomorrow morning just on general play it safe grounds. One thing about having to throw toilet paper in the bin is you get a good look at your work afterwards. :-)

Still coughing a bit and blow crap out of right nostril 2-3 times a day or so. Think it's improving and is probably just the last phase of a slow-burning chest infection or whatever.

2227 Getting another. Will see how it goes but might have one more after this then home.

Occurs to me it might be cool (though doubt it's an option, even if you can take a camera, which I still find odd but probably will do) to have phone on me tomorrow and take a GPS track of the flight. However, I don't trust the altitude reported on my phone (apparently I went 18m below sea level today on my walk...) so that would spoil things. Probably best all round to leave it at hostel; as waffled about pre-sandboarding, it would be a real pisser in the unlikely event it got nicked from the bus.

More free (salted) popcorn.

Intermittently rereading Three Men on the Bummel BTW.

Accidentally left Yes Man in bathroom earlier but happened to spot it just before I came out. I need to register it on bookcrossing.com and write the number in the front in case I do lose it. Might even deliberately leave it in a bar in Santiago at end of trip. My limited experiments so far with bookcrossing.com never led to anything but you never know.

Musing inevitably more on tomorrow, while I have this unfortunate tendency (which, I suppose, I am working on) to imagine the worst, I don't think I'm significantly more cowardly than average when it actually comes to the crunch. To take an example, while I was scared shitless of going into the Potosi mines - which definitely played with some more fundamental personal fears than paragliding - I held up pretty well while down there, and the actual 'crisis' was totally unexpected.

Keep saying it but I really hope the insurance doesn't fuck this over. It would be an 'out' but I don't want one really. If I do bottle it somehow at the time then that's my business. It would be a shame to have an external factor get involved. I suppose I could maybe have another go at doing it the day after if I just need time to sort out insurance, but would be a bit crap, since I would then be doing it the same morning I have to check out, which would be additional stress.

Some almost spoken song just played. Didn't really understand but kind of liked it. Bad lyric quote so I can maybe Google it later: "Sonrisa... Mona Lisa... Todo lo que... Por ti..."

2301 Just got one more; waitress didn't hear my attempts to attract her attention (possibly distracted by watching a fat guy try to squeeze into a chair with arms). Maybe it's the sweet brown (golden, really) liquor but feeling fairly good. In some sense would probably like to make a night of it but more would be imprudent. Will - subject to not being in hospital - indulge a little more tomorrow, all else failing in that little bar I went to the first night. Still seriously baffled by the extreme yet temporary intoxication. I guess it shows the weird mental element involved (qv people getting drunk on alcohol-free beer if they don't know it's alcohol free - though logically I should have thought 'this is four 'pints' so I am not drunk') in intoxication.

No free popcorn this time. No matter. Not actually hungry and 120g of 'American cut' salted crisps await me at home. This is, as have said, contrary to my 'no food' plan, but I guess the main thing is to have nothing in my stomach by 10am tomorrow. I am a little worried about the 'practical', non-injurious aspect but I do think it will be a short period (double digit seconds) of panic followed by relaxation and enjoyment.

The whole roast chicken in the supermarket did tempt me. But under the circumstances not to be thought of. Did also think this afternoon a grapefruit juice would have hit the spot, and did look for it in supermarket, but the selection of juices didn't run to it. Oh well. Something to look forward to when I get back to the UK. (Not that I drink it there regularly, but it's available.)

Oh, earlier down at south end of beach, came across a tree full of black birds. No idea what they were but they made the most extraordinarily guttural noise. Took a video of them not because they were moving a lot but to record the sound. Tried to upload it to flickr earlier but no joy; it's on my netbook if I do lose my camera tomorrow and I shall try to remember to upload it later.

2322 "One Love" (?) playing in English.

2328 "Ordinary World" Waitress just offered me more popcorn by picking up dish and making thumbs up sign. Clearly has v poor opinion of my Spanish. Asked where toilet was and she led me there.

Seriously tempted to have one more. Felt a tiny bit drunk on walk to toilet but I am not. I might be weak. I am not going to be drunk tomorrow morning and I'm not gonna sleep any better for going back super early. Really the only consideration is my bowels. Feel weak but may do it. Still half of this beer on hand anyway.

I mean, one more is like four pints (the two I had this afternoon obviously count, but not in terms of being drunk or hungover).

2348 Hostel is 750m away by GPS. (Not that I think I need it, just an observation.) Gonna have one more. Might be stupid but fuck it. It feels a little insane to be worrying after having had three 'pints'. I hope this place isn't a rip off. Fair number of probably locals and clearly native speakers here.

Yeah, just ordered. FFS, can't be any worse than yesterday. Besides (paranoia) I might be paralysed this time tomorrow and never drink again. Also, especially after the last week or so, though I would never boast of my prowess at Spanish, I do wonder if the staff think I'm more incompetent than I am. I do wonder in part if the odd pseudo-drunkenness is because I'm used to drinking standing up. Whatever.

2356 Just asked how much - places have been in lately seems inappropriate to ask for 'the bill' - and the guy is bringing me the bill. Not leaving that soon but want to have the freedom to leave when I finish without hanging around. Fingers crossed not gonna be a con. Fairly sure is not, though it may be expensive. (Still can't believe was only 1k a schop at place last night.)

Maybe this is actually a good thing, being out late-ish I mean. Modulo the insurance issue, treating the paragliding as no big deal. Bill is 5200 for four schop; not too bad. Paying 6k which is slightly generous but fuck it, at least it's not 20%. Still curious as to whether staff regard me as a drunk foreign idiot or just foreign or what. (Waitress just brought changed and said it was the tip.)

0003 "Difficil de creer" song playing. Do feel a little pissed in an odd way. Ah well, I know I'm not really. Oddly reluctant to go in for a piss but will do so as I know if one thing will make the walk home crap it's wanting a piss. Hope my beer will still be here when get back but if not it will be fate. ;-)

0007 Been. Beer still here. Felt fine on walk to gents. I think the issue is in part that I am convinced the staff think I'm a drunk fool and that disconcerts me. I know I am waffling but it's odd. I haven't felt significantly drunk on four pints since I was about 20 and it's not like it's a massive amount even for anyone. Don't see why I feel paranoid here, in fact I feel pretty comfortable (modulo paragliding, which is an issue tonight but wasn't yesterday). What the hell. Not too worried about walk home tonight and also not going to appear half off my face when get to hostel, unlike last night. (And I wasn't lying, I felt so OK five minutes after I got in. Maybe it was partly doubt about getting home OK. Who knows?)

Just realised didn't get receipt (might have been in wallet thing I waved away saying change was tip). Sure it's fine but if they do cut up rough I might be fucked. No reason to believe that will happen though, just my paranoia coming through.

0018 Perhaps stupid but shall MP3 it on walk back. A bit of Chas and Dave for that London feel. Can't understand this nervousness, which I don't think is about tomorrow. Have faith Stevey boy, todo bien. ;-) Certainly feel less drunk than last night and the walk home should do me proud. Don't think it's dangerous here and it's not like I haven't walked the streets of Latin America at this time of night.

Yet am gonna send this before I go, just in case. :-)