Valparaiso, Tuesday

0031 Unfortunately no socket near bed so can't charge phone while I sleep. I expect to fall asleep fairly quickly so probably really ought to read Yes Man in bed and let phone charge but not going to. Will at least charge laptop overnight, on offchance I ever get wifi, so I can sit in lounge with it.

For first time am using the Howsarlock I brought with me to secure the door, in addition to the bolt. Not entirely sure why but I figure since the door is not going to be trivially openable from outside due to the bolt, and thus if I have a heart attack in the night I'm kind of fucked anyway, I might as well be as secure as possible.

Battery at 46%. This does suck a little. I really should charge the phone overnight but fuck it. I can give it a bit of a boost tomorrow morning.

OK, bed is extremely primitive. Appear to be two blankets and no (count 'em) sheets plus the counterpane quilty thing on top. I did actually bring a sleep sack or whatever the thing's called (basically a silk sleeping bag with no insulation) with me but I don't know if I will use it. (I bought it in a fit of enthusiasm after reading onebag.com; nowhere I've ever been has insisted I use one, and the website for this hostel made no mention of there being no sheets on the bed.)

On the heart attack front I guess I'm overly paranoid about not locking door so it has to be opened from inside in general. I mean, back home I am totally fucked if it happens, and it's not likely anyone would hear me here anyway, even if the door were totally unlocked and they could get in.

Anyway, battery at 51% and it's not gonna get that much higher if I wait. Will put in airplane mode overnight so at least battery won't be running down once I go to sleep.

0041 Accidentally pressed "power off" not "airplane mode". No prompts, are you sure, fucking thing just does it. No data loss but annoying. Anyways...

1210 Woohoo. Third person I asked gave correct wifi password. Precached map onto phone (at 81%, not too bad). Finally leaving hostel. (Still no key, but bag chained to bed so probably OK.) Carried bag of laundry with me, hope can find somewhere. May ask woman who gave me wifi key (might even be the one from yday, not sure).

1247 Did ask, she said there was a cheap one in Anbal Pinto but I have no idea where that is. Just dropped off at Lavaseco Ingles on Pedro Montt; laundrettes seem thin on ground here, fortunately I had looked this up in guidebook. Can pick up from ten tomorrow so may walk over here then get taxi to bus terminal. Not cheap, guy just weighed it in his hand and said 4k but not in a position to argue. He asked me where my name came from; I said I was English.

Anyway, wander a bit.

1516 At some small restaurant near port. No menu except that outside so on bife a lo pobre again. ;-) Got haircut in some small place near laundrette, slightly on a whim. 2k plus 250 tip.

Then got metro (train thing) to port, which cost 1.5k cos I had to pay 1.2k for a sort of Oyster card. Oh well. It's kind of a souvenir and maybe I won't have lost it by the next time I come back.

Wandered, went up one funicular, walked what seems like miles uphill then back down again somewhat at random to here. Might have a beer or two after this if I can find somewhere nice.

Oh, dunno what this place is called but sign over door says (IIRC) oldest restaurant in port, 1897.

Quite a lot of cats here; lost count of how many, whereas normally I might see one every other day. Three kittens - aww ;-)

2006 Well that was random. Will waffle later but just got back to hostel, at least two of the three Ses and a charge for the phone.

2146 OK. At some deserted bar in that stretch near hostel. None seemed great (one local-looking bar had Pink Floyd playing, but no free tables) and this place does a litre of Baltica for 1k (I paid at bar and tipped 100, big spender baby!) So I figured WTF. May pick up later, if not might move, no big deal. Drinking too much but fuck it, only four nights left.

Fuck, this is 5.8%. Tastes OK.

Oh, stopped off in a shop on way out. Guy behind counter asked if I was British/English (can't remember). Vaguely shocked. I mean, sure, my accent, while excellent, lacks the fine details which deceive the locals. But to guess I'm British is a little odd, especially as I gather Brits are not super-common here in Chile.

Anyway, this afternoon. Already waffled about this on (nearly) full-sized netbook keyboard back at hostel to Rab and JR but let's write it here again.

As I was finishing up bife a lo pobre, guy (late twentiesish) at next table asked where I was from in English. Shortly after invited me to join him and his two friends. All cool.

After he offered to take me to a bar to hear Chilean music. Figuring a) it was broad daylight b) I was sober (I got a litre while taking to them, but shared it round a little) and c) I'd already had my fill of walking and sightseeing, I decided to roll with it. His friends didn't join us and I wonder if he'd just met them.

He was obviously a little drunk in the restaurant. He spent the walk over to the bar (he kept popping in places to ask if there was a certain type of bar nearby) talking to me loudly and repetitively about how it was heart and friendship that was important, not money.

On the way over he tried to drunkenly (*not* Mr Smooth) chat up two women stood outside some shop handing out leaflets. Embarrassing.

He quietened down in the bar, though we shook hands about once a minute on average. He ordered a litre of beer and appeared to pay for it, which surprised me. (I fully expected to be in the chair, but I figured if the expenses were moderate it was worth it for the experience.) I got a pitcher after that - I had to insist I would pay, he wanted to - and when I did pay it turned out he hadn't paid for the litre, he had just got change for the jukebox. Cost me about 4k for the litre and the pitcher.

He kept putting Chilean songs on the jukebox and telling me to listen and explaining the lyrics. That was sort of cool. According to one song, Valparaiso is 'el hoya (sp) del pacifico', the jewel of the Pacific.

(Oh, I double checked at hostel about not needing a key to get in after midnight. Don't plan a late one but nice to know I don't have to be super paranoid.)

The somewhat odd bit was that about 25% or less into the pitcher, he wanted to go to the bank before they shut at 7 because he had no money and his ATM card was lost. I offered to guard the pitcher while he went, but he was quite keen for me to go with him. So I did. The staff agreed to keep the pitcher for half an hour and - as Douglas Adams pointed out, stress being a major problem these days - I shall point out now that, amazingly they did.

He kept asking everyone for directions to the right kind of bank. En route he asked for change to buy a snack and I gave him a big handful (probably 1-2k tops). We eventually got to the bank. He was an amiable drunk idiot in the queue. Surprise surprise, they wouldn't give him any money. At this point I was mainly anxious to get back before the pitcher was lost, and we did get back OK.

In the bar he asked me for money. I had already taken the precaution of saying I'd like to lend him some (we were mates, after all) but my card was back at the hostel. He wanted 5k but I said (and except for what I had hidden, and that was just 10k plus ultra-emergency 20k in zipped trouser belt) I only had 2k and did give him that.

We finished the pitcher and on the way out he had the gall to remind me to tip the waiter for keeping the pitcher. (To be fair, I had intended to do so but forgot.) I gave him a disposable yet genuine e-mail address on a napkin and he took me over to a taxi rank opposite. I had cried off on pretext of being drunk and wanting to sleep (I wasn't; I had maybe 2 litres over 4-5 hours). I also said I had no more money and he said he had. Err, whatever.

Taxi driver very nice and chatty, though I guess I had also just had the edge taken off my inhibitions by the beer and minor adrenaline rush. Had to dredge out the reserve 10k to pay but I knew I would have to and the guy changed it with a slight protest (I did explain, I hope comprehensibly, how I didn't know the guy who had accompanied me to taxi and how he was an amiable drunk and I'd paid for everything) so all cool.

SS and then used free wi-fi (very speedy, actually, though I guess it's domestic broadband shared between one guest, me) to upload all the photos I hadn't got round to and e-mail a couple of mates.

Perhaps shouldn't have come out tonight but as I say, I am on holiday so sod it. Time to (go back to) restraint once I am back home.

As I think I said earlier, I sort of suspected it was a bit of a scam but as always I don't mind as long as it's minor, and I reckon it cost me CLP10k tops. It's worth it for the chat and experience, and as long as I go into it with my eyes open I don't feel exploited after. Sometimes it's nicer than others; as I think I said, what was nice about those guys in La Serena on Sunday was they didn't seem to be taking advantage.

I do have a lingering suspicion the guy this afternoon (he told me his name but I forgot; he called me 'London' or 'Londres' all afternoon) was not a complete scam; he seemed quite genuine in a way, though doubtless there was a strong sponging element. Still, all cool.

Would be embarrassing to bump into him now but I think it's very unlikely. Besides, if I do, I have had my sleep and fancied a beer. Also not giving him any money, if he did say anything I would say 'surely you got some, or how can you be out drinking?'.

Still only person here. Not a big deal, it's not like I'm busting for chat after this afternoon and there was like one other customer in the corner in Matiz (sp?) last night. I expect I shall be out in lively places in Santiago. Only question is whether I will go elsewhere after this litre just on offchance. Hardly touched it so far due to writing all this so no rush.

Ooh, a guy just walked in!

I am lurking in dark corner behind door. As solo customer I might be a magnet for random people but maybe that's OK and probably not.

2215 Guy was a wandering vendor who just tried to flog me some purses. Saw him off OK anyway.

"I want to be forever young" playing. Hmm....

Oh, I have an idea I overheard the barman telling vendor chap I was British. Maybe not. But this is freaky. I might be a gringo but I can't understand why my nationality is suddenly being pinpointed so precisely.

2230 Weird medley of old English language hits. We just had a bit (sadly not the whole thing) of "Safety Dance" (complete with video on tiny TV in corner). Couple of guys come in. Owner/barman went and stood on street leaving me in here solo for a while. Resisted temptation to steal a short. :-)

Might well stick on here. At the rate I'm drinking (and with IIRC 11 or 1130) checkout one more litre will do me. It's cheap, quite nicely down at heel and I'm not looking to meet anyone. Just don't like being only person in the place and we seem to have met that objection. "Staying alive".

2241 Music is like "greatest (English language) hits of 80s and 90s for people with ADD". My tastes are naff enough to like it, but I'd rather hear the full songs. The one consolation is I didn't have to listen to much of "Let's talk about sex", which I have always despised. Such naff rhymes, such lack of content.

Maybe 4-5 other guys here. Place is basically a somewhat bare room maybe 4x10m, with tables. Tis cool. Feel a bit odd here on own but I am lurking right in the corner and I feel fine really.

2248 Almost wondering if will have time for another. Guess at this price can leave half of it.

Been thinking how to describe this place. It might be like Prague (though my memory is hazy) and it reminds me of a photo I saw of Tallinn. Lots of streets hilly as fuck. Stairs on the pavements.

Between here and hostel is a proper distinct stairway off the street which cuts off some of the horizontal distance followed by the snaking road. Went down it this morning and on way out tonight but will probably follow road up. I suspect it's fine but I don't know how well lit the stairway is and even if it is well lit, it would be a prime site for a robbery. I don't think that's actually likely but why go out of my way to invite trouble? On the proper street I can keep away from dark doorways and so forth, there is room to move away from anyone I don't like the look of, etc. Of course if push comes to shove will hand wallet etc over. Wd cash to top up reserves earlier so annoyingly do have my cash card (the most valuable thing, not directly - it's worthless to a criminal - but in terms of access to cash) in wallet, along with 100k. Just might switch card and most of cash back into hidden belt in bog before I leave.

Few more people coming in. Really kind of hope no one does talk to me but probably not likely and guess you've got to take it as it comes.

2255 Just checked still have torch in pocket and found CD-case style (I think) calendar thing guy this afternoon gave me shortly after met him in restaurant as a present. He did also try to give me a ring when we were in the bar (before we went to the bank) but I refused it as politely as I could, saying he had already given calendar. He may just have been drunkenly friendly but a) I didn't want the damn ring and b) I am aware of the reciprocity principal in social conformance and didn't want to be put under obligation, if he was consciously or unconsciously (and my cynical side leans to the former here) trying to exploit it.

2309 Still not finished this litre. That's a bad thing to say, I guess. Not out to get drunk. Am gonna buy another, probably after a piss - no risk of losing table tonight - but may not finish it. Had shower earlier and will have one when I get to apartment in Santiago (which I hope is as nice as expedia site makes it out to be; I do like a nice pseudo-home-from-home in a big city, though doubtless a hostel might be matier - still, I am sorted in that respect in Santiago anyway). So just need to get up, one S in the morning and be out by 11. Pick up laundry and get random bus to Santiago. Guess I will be checked in and all sorted by 2-3pm. First time I will have arrived in Santiago by bus and if the local buses from here are like the long distance ones, will be an easy metro trip to the apartment.

2316 Oh, should say chat with guy earlier was probably 80% Spanish. I keep fucking my tenses up enormously but in general sympathetic people can understand me (call me "Comte de Frou Frou" ;-) - I love that quote) and also, in hindsight, the guy was hardly listening to a word I said. I remember he asked me for my phone no and I started explaining about crap roaming rates and temporary SIMs and somehow I just ended up stopping after about a minute and it never came up again.

That was cool really, and that aside, Valparaiso is very cool. I am a sucker for heights and views and the hilly streets are romantic as fuck, never mind the trolleybuses and the funiculars (of which I saw only the one I used, though there are apparently maybe ten or so). Would definitely come back here another time.

Guy this afternoon said Vina del Mar is like Miami (he has a brother there, if I believe it). So probably not my sort of place.

"99 red balloons" in the original German has just taken its place in the ongoing medley. (Cheers Patty for teaching me to recognise it. :-) ) "Don't get me wrong" now.

Fuck, I am gonna be here late if not careful.

"Walk like an Egyptian". Fuck, I wish they'd play the proper songs. Jive Bunny or what.

Pictures of the Beatles and John Lennon on wall.

"Ballroom Blitz" now.

2326 Had piss (transferred card to hidden belt, tho no cash as no lock on cubicle and tho bar is almost empty preferred not to fuck with that) and got another litre. Aware, and have been for a day or two, that I have a Spanish problem right there. "Otro litro de baltica". Cerveza is feminine, so is otra cerveza. But 'litra' doesn't sound right, yet not sure 'litro' is either, and yet that forces me into the masculine. A minute with a dictionary would sort me out. Suspect 'Otra litra de baltica' is better but not sure. (Even if don't say otro/a, same issue with un/una.) Ah, I'd like to be fluent but am further off than was a year or so ago. WTF. Two steps forward, one step back. Maybe I will do that A-level style study over Christmas and finally do the two steps forward.

Don't want to be out super late but don't want to go home. Wondering if would be rude to tip guy who let's me in 1k. Have never tipped in hostel yet for anything, doesn't seem right, but still. I suspect I genuinely am the only guest right now. I could have paid even less for a dormitory (given I have no key to room, I have to act like am in one, and in dormitory I might at least have a locker to use my padlock on instead of just a chain) and been equally comfortable. Still, the hostel is hardly pricey (under CLP10k a night) and if a tiny bit creepy (less so now I am used to it) its faded elegance is quite appealing. It's the sort of building I half dream of buying and emigrating to, while at the same time being so large I would be scared shitless to leave there on my own.

Ooh, four young women just came in. I do suspect I am out far too early. In Santiago I know better; meeting a friend at 10pm tomorrow. Here I am sure it's the same but my own 'lifestyle' (hostel, bus) made me inclined to come out earlier. It's only Tuesday but still, I think I have just enough exposure to the local culture to know this isn't a Liverpool St kind of place. (Meet 5-8pm, drink, off by 11.) And I came out kind of knowing it was early but also knowing I didn't feel equal to trying for local hours. If/when I come back here (ideally with full permission from hostel - I don't want to fuck anyone over) with more time, I would naturally gravitate to local hours.

As a tourist the late culture suits me down to the ground - I am not a morning person. I do wonder what it's like for the local with a job.

Not directly related to previous paragraph, but despite being a tourist and around at various times during the day, I always find it odd when I see someone in a suit. Yes, I am asleep during morning rush hour but never noticed much during what must be evening rush hour. Maybe I've been in the wrong places. Or maybe it's relaxed, in the same sense IT in Canary Wharf is.

Will - WTF - say that it has occurred to me, if not for first time, during trip that I am, despite my own feelings, actually a surprisingly successful person. I earn a relatively large amount of money (even by London standards, never mind locally), I have been able to take six weeks off while working, I had that time off last year. I am not strapped for cash like the SYTs sometimes are, even if I don't like to waste it. I am envious of their youth but I've done OK and I am not sure I'd care to go back to their age and work my way back to where I am now. I won't say it's been gruelling but I've put my time in, earned my position (albeit with a little luck), I'm pretty good at what I do and now I can take it a little easy (before my job is stolen by outsourcing ;-) ) and have a bit of fun. And if I'm a bit less stressed about money than the SYTs, so be it. (And I am paying, not my parents.) I've paid the price, done my time, put my hours in and they have that all to come. Thank fk it's not 40yrs ago and I have the chance to take advantage of my position rather than being compelled to stick it out until I retire.

Probably a drunk passage but WTF.

2346 We just had a snatch of 'borracho y loco'. I've got to buy a copy of that.

0001 Feeling a bit pissed suddenly. Gonna leave shortly. Might add have seen a few Pink Floyd ads around, I think a local tribute band might be playing shortly but date was no good for me. Shame, would have been a cool thing to have seen. If memory serves is called 'Brain Damage', braindamage.cl.

Feel bad about getting back. Bad for self image. Must admit, naff as it is, I love walking the streets here (in Chile/Latin America, not just Valparaiso), especially in the evenings, I feel very cosmpolitan and have a stupid pride in my poor language skills. And I would love to be either the relaxed but sophisticated traveller having a quiet beer, or the cosmopolitan guy mixing with the locals. Tonight is not that, primarily cos it's not the latter and am too disturbed about being a git at the hostel (and with the bus tomorrow). Ah well, I do OK.

0007 Just gave bottle away on genuine grounds of having to get away. Feel a bit stupid but at least it's not going to waste. Still have rest of this glass. Feeling oddly drunk but am sure am not that bad, will probably sober up on leaving and hey, as long as I get up, who cares.

0259 Fuck fuck fuck. Just got back. The beer hand-off resulted in me meeting two Chileans. That would be cool except they both asked me for money for something I shall pretend I don't know about. I had a beer or two with them and I reckon I gave them 9k over the course of three occasions and I DON'T KNOW WHY. They were very nice and excepting that cool but how they came to have the balls to ask for money and why I gave it to them I do not fucking know. I am not normally a total twat nor was I desperate for companionship. I feel, while it was my choice, far more played than I did this afternoon.

I am somewhat pissed but by no means off my face and I really don't understand what I just did. I should have told them to fuck off.

Got into hostel OK, gave guy 1k tip and he was reluctant to accept it but I said something along lines of how I'd just met some shit guys and 1k was nothing. Asked him and he said I had to checkout at midday. Was a bit drunk climbing stairs and checked time with him. Will aim to leave earlier alll the same. Feel genuinely played and I do not understand, drunk or not, why I was such a compliant twat.

Fuck fuck fuck. Anyway, am a little pissed now - I had some beers with those guys and except for the 'donations' would be cool - so best go to bed. But man do I feel fucking annoyed and played.

Gotta say it again. FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK.