Fri 9th 2133 In bed. Lights on and people on laptops so fine to write this.
Quick poke online. Smugarse posts on reddit suggesting (from covid era) going up without a guide is crazy let alone doing solo. Mountain lions, freezing, yada yada. One guy who has done all sorts of things like everest base camp has a blog saying it is so so hard and he did it solo during day. Yet loads of people here (earwigging) have gone up in an unguided group and they don't make out it was agonisingly terribly awful or boast about how massively fit they are. I feel jittery and frustrated now.
Fuck it. If I *am* reduced to paying for a guide this makes me feel a bit better. Current thinking is I am willing to go with an unguided group if I can find one - tho it could be awkward if they all know each other and I'm a burden - but given other hikers are apparently not that friendly etc as trying to push on themselves, I am not gonna go solo and will pay for a guide rather than soloing or not doing it.
For nth time, just fucking chill Steve. What happens happens, you have limited but not complete control. One way or another this is probably achievable and if it's not it's not as if it's a deathbed regret kind of thing. And I can't beat myself up because I'm travelling solo and (if this is an issue) am old enough I worry about chatting to other people or especially foisting myself on them for this hike.
I was feeling OKish before coming to bed and reading that shit online. Now i feel vaguely "trapped" and scared and nervous and lonely. Feh.
On a larger scale maybe this is the damn Montezuma waterfall all over again. :-)
I had earlier seen someone on tripadvisor saying it was hard but not an enormous deal if you had hiking experience, prob mentioned that earlier but fwiw in case I didn't.
But ffs, sleep or at least reading. And fucking chill! :-) New day tomorrow etc etc etc.
Sat 10th 0952 On terrace, as there's space got chair at an empty table rather than the "bar" sat at last night to increase chances of accidental chat.
Slept OKish, woke up about 0440 after prob finally going to sleep 2300ish. Felt a bit more tranquil but struggled to get back to sleep. Wasn't cold cold but it would have been nice to have a blanket instead of just a sleep. Did get off to sleep eventually and woke 9ish after seemingly being in recursive dreams (dreaming about being awake) which were semi pleasant except for one where some unseen arsehole had tried to snap my phone in half to silence an alarm.
Lying in bed more tranquilly maybe 5amish I was thinking a bit straighter. In no particular order:
- It's a fact (with mixed pros and cons) I am travelling solo. Can't be changed. No shame in being solo either.
- My age probably isn't such a factor, but again it's simply a fact etc.
- Even if I was travelling with someone else(s), be they friends from home or these mythical people who hook up with you during a trip, there's no guarantee at all they'd have the same desire or ability (I am provisionally assuming I am physically capable) to do this at least mildly strenuous hike and if I was with someone it could just as easily hamper my ability to do it as enable me.
- I was thinking (again without being overly bitter about it) that I kind of "need" to do this Sat or Sun night because while I am here Mon, I would be getting back say 7am Mon morning and needing to checkout 11 and would need to move to another hostel. Prob not a killer - I infer from last night's earwigging various people were just staying awake before letting themselves go to bed, rather than going to be on their return - but not ideal.
- Plan for today was to speak to reception, ask on the offchance about extending and about laundry facilities and then go ask about tours.
So I got up and cleaned teeth - not had shower yet, bear in mind did have one midday yday and it's not as if I've been anywhere hot or done anything strenuous - and went to chat to reception and then got coffee and came out here.
I chatted with reception in Spanish - a different woman to yday giving me an excuse, tho might have done it anyway - in Spanish, partly for practice, partly to maybe make me feel slightly more sympathetically human and less touristy and partly to "show" I speak Spanish in case it turns out to matter:
- I asked about this tour. She said the path is v clear and I asked and there are no wild animals and it's safe in that sense and it's easy in that sense. I asked about soloing and she didn't absolutely say no but said it's better with a group.
- I said I was here on my own and asked about guides. She seemed to think there were no tours offering it on foot, only 4x4 - which incidentally I don't really want to do, it sounds both miserable (motion sickness) and expensive and lacks the challenge aspect (I can get motion sickness experience on the 4x4 taxi to the boat trip and the boat trip itself) and it's not as if I've never seen sunrise from top of volcano (eg Acatenango, which some ppl earwigged on last night had done but didn't compare difficulty, and of course Acatenango is shorter and you camp and it was 5y ago and I had been at Xela altitudes for 5+ weeks beforehand). Web seemed to imply otherwise but she may know better/be more up to date.
- I think she offered and I asked her "enthusiastically" to let me know if anyone else expressed an interest. Just have to wait and see what happens.
- I got here to show me the laundry area and it is free for hand wash and given I'm in no rush and would like to have eg red ss shirt salt free and clean as possible "undershirt" for hike I may do a bit of laundry after some more coffee before heading out.
- I then asked about extending for another night and notwithstanding lack of booking.com last night I paid USD15.40 for an extra night and I can keep the same bed. This gives me an extra night (and vastly increases the utility of Mon) to find some way to do the volcano hike if I need it. If I don't need it I'm sure there is other stuff to do, modulo the shoe thing this hostel seems pleasant enough (and I may get some chat in as I get to know people/settle in and it feels like it's on the tourist routes and I may get some good tips etc even if only earwigging tho be nice to join in) and the town ditto and there are probably cheap-ish other things to do if I want to fill a day and just puttering round is probably quite nice, and staying this extra night also gets me through the last night of carnival if that matters. I didn't get a receipt (general paranoia even without this weird fucking law) but it should be fine and I didn't and generally don't want to appear distrustful etc, I didn't ask for paperwork when extending that night in SC and it was fine and generally has been fine.
So I'm feeling mildly optimistic. The thing is to do what I can to make this hike happen and if I do that I may be a bit "sad" at not managing to do it but I know I tried. My intention is to take it easy over a few free coffees, do some laundry and - I'm not starving but could eat something - go and see if I *can* find any walking tour options as a fallback and get something to eat and see the town a bit. I can't be too forceful/desperate but it does become more important than normal for me to do my best to (nicely) get chatting with people and make my desire to find a hiking partner(s) known so as to increase my chances of finding someone (eg X says to Y who expresses an interest "Oh, that old guy over there was looking for someone to go with" ).
Notwithstanding my own general shyness/reticence/etc, I do feel random groups may well be unwilling or might do it to be nice but would not prefer not to have a random stranger (esp an old-ish one) joining them. There's an element of taking responsibility for each other. The other people's fitness matters and can fuck your experience over. It's not just a 30 min chat on terrace, it's 12+h together and the experience might be spoiled. It's one thing to have to hang back cos your mate Tom who you've known since you were 16 or who you've been travelling with for the last three weeks pulled a hip muscle, it's another thing for the rando you agreed to let go with you to cause the same problem. And you know Tom is reasonably fit or at least comparable to you whereas this little old guy is an unknown. etc etc.
Of course some people may also feel safer with a larger group (eg 3 vs 2 is quite a big difference) and it may well be - eg given the apparent (tho talk is not the same as internal state, I suspect there is not a huge difference in these cases) relatively carefree attitude people take to this hike (and don't come back expressing shock at how hard it was compared to that) they might see (rightly or wrongly) little extra risk (to their enjoyment) of having a rando tag along.
Just have to see, try to be open and make contacts etc.
I noticed this morning dorm has lockers, so may leave K1 charging in one when I go out. Thumbs tingling so take a break. FWIW that long term painful right finger joint still hurts but it is perhaps better than it has been for a while, maybe the keyboard/mouse break is helping.
1019 If not clear the reason above I thought it might be important to show I speak Spanish is in case a Spanish-speaking non-English speaker(s) express interest in doing the hike. Probably not an issue, but this way that woman on reception does know I speak broadly passable Spanish and could communicate with them.
If didn't say at time I spoke with Colombian guy at hostel in VdL (which feels an eternity ago) who said he hadn't done lost city hike near Santa Marta but had spoken with (paraphrase) "normal girls who had done it and not said it was insanely hard" - I guess the point being these were averageish young women, probably not massively overweight or out of shape but not overtly athletic "oh yeah, I climb at least one mountain a week and cycle 20 miles to and from work every day" types. I might hope given the stuff I've been earwigging on that this volcano hike is similar rather than the emotional and physical rollercoaster eg that blog post made it out to be.
If I *do* find a walking tour on offer I will try not to book it today unless it is ultra rare in some way (only once a week on Mondays etc) as I would like to give myself time to find a group to go with. But it is I think worth asking round so I at least know.
1033 OK, one somewhat smugarse company does have a website saying you can book this for USD75ish. No idea if they actually operator or have availability. Another requires min 2 persons.
1106 Right, pre-rinsed ss shirt and bandanna in cold water to try to get salt out, washed (sep) 2 tops and 2 sets uw, remembering to take off my "slightly dirty" current uw+top and put fresh ones on, otherwise would only have 1 set each to wash. Apart from the automated machine starting to drain into the cold water sink I'd been using and having to switch to adjacent hot water only sink for rinse of uw, all went smoothly and stuff is on line to dry. Fingers crossed this will give a luxuriously clean feeling from line drying (albeit not right out in open air).
Having another (black) coffee. I don't really want to deal with tour agencies but it is all (maybe) Spanish practice and I don't have to go crazy doing it. No absolute rush. Gut feeling is I am gonna have a coffee or two before I go out, maybe do one or two tour companies then have lunch if I can find somewhere nice and perhaps do one or two more. If as is likely I have spare time I may walk up that 20mish trail to get the view over town this afternoon.
While it would be good to know what might happen wrt volcano hike, it does feel surprisingly good to feel relatively unhurried (a further 4 nights here and only one "must do, insofar as my best efforts allow" thing) and even doing the laundry in an unhurried and unfurtive way felt quite satisfying.
I checked forecast and temps today are supposed to rise up through mid teens to about 25C mid-afternoon IIRC. This all feels super comfortable.
For my own ref the woman on reception I spoke to is short-ish, mid-dark skin, slightly rotund (but not insanely so), mid-brown hair in a ponytail. There is a similarish (bearing in mind my poor attention to faces, I *may* remember who I spoke to from face but may not) woman but she has black hair in a bob. Round-ish face on woman I spoke to IIRC.
Oh, saw (not first one in Panama IIRC) enormous government billboard going thru David saying (from memory) "La lucha contra covid-19 nunca/no termina" . Wish I could remember whether it was nunca or no but can't be sure. It *looked* fairly fresh (rather than as is apparently traditional with covid notices having been put up when it applied and then left up forever, because why not?) but who knows.
1132 FWIW I annointed myself with sunblock from the 50ml bottle today. Just a *tiny* bit awkward getting it out (ie it's not sufficiently full it just comes out trivially) but not a big deal. (I note this just in case I ever want to try to work out how much sunblock I use daily etc. Once the bottle is empty empty I will prob refill it from the big 180ml tube.)
Maybe one more coffee and then I'll head out. Key thing to remember is to do what I can towards goal here and if it doesn't happen at least I tried.
1139 Another coffee. Earwigging. Mention of Pipekline hike which had seen mentioned online. I think this is a relatively easy thing. If it can be done solo I may do it (eg tomorrow if it isn't epically tiring etc), but anyway, just a note so I don't forget this.
Random observation: did notice eg in dorm in SC that at least some people (young people at that) are still bringing physical copies of guide books with them. I am slightly surprised given existence of electronic ones and so forth, but can also see the attraction (browsing experience vastly better with paper). Not blaming or praising, just thought this was interesting - would be easy to assume "everyone" goes electronic or simply doesn't bother with a guide book these days.
Guide books are clearly less useful than they were say 20 or probably even 10 years ago given proliferation of travel info online, widespread wifi, smartphones and things like booking.com. They could have a niche in being actually up to date in post-pandemic era but despite claims they are I don't find this tremendously true. But while they are probably on a downtrend and may or may not be dying, they are cleary not dead yet. And I do get some limited value out of my electronic one. Tho it does also pose a minor "mental health challenge" - over dramatic phrasing - by waving all this "look what a hypothetical cool active confident energetic social young urban spaceman backpacker could be doing, you're such a fucking loser Steve" stuff in my face.
1153 Fuck it, let's head out. At least serpentining the streets looking for tour agents will mix well with checking out the food options.
1719 On hostel terrace, prob back for the day now.
Fairly productive day. When got back to dorm prior to heading out two guys were chatting and it was fairly natural to join in. Got some tips on volcano from one (Juan, who did it other day) and the other guy (Bruce) has limited mobility (hip problem) but we chatted for ages and went for a shortish walk into town. Spotted a couple of hostels over the day which i may or may not nerve myself to go ask in tomorrow if necessary (really not sure how this would work). Have at least made J and B aware I am looking for someone to go with so they may mention this to anyone else who expresses an interest.
Went to a (non-Baru) supermarket with Bruce, we came back and I left him putting his stuff in kitchen. Had a coffee or two, went back out to eat - I found a localish place on main street which wasn't super clear how price worked but looked cheapish and I got rice with beans, beef and some lentils plus white coffee for USD6 which isn't too bad - and to buy some non-perishables life caffeinated energy drinks (Juan said he took coke, but I got these) and peanuts and a litre bottle of water (still have untouched gallon, but wanted a second litre bottle to be able to take) and some bananas (of which I ate three today) so in the unlikely event I unexpectedly get invited to go out to volcano tonight I am semi-prepared. Given time I may try to buy bread and ham and take some sandwiches but as it is I could probably get by.
Came back to hostel and sat on terrace and ate some bananas, hardly anyone around and decided that although Juan had advised doing as little as possible the day of volcan hike, I have to strike a balance as I can't assume I will get to go at all, so about 1630 I decided to go over to that lookout on the east side of town. Passed bar/restaurant under bridge with live music on and had brief listen from bridge along with some other people. Then up to the lookout along a cool covered walkway with houses off to the sides - slight wrong turn at start which I caught on OM - but otherwise easy to follow the covered walkway. Views from top very cool, I might well go back before I leave - if nothing else it might be nice to go up there in morning when sun will be "behind" you (maybe) instead of "in front" and the light will be different.
It is a bit annoying - not that I'm super optimistic I will get to go, but still - to feel I'm constantly "on standby" with a slim but non-zero chance of a sudden opportunity to do the hike. But it's fine, can't be helped.
I got pretty much everything done I planned today - thanks to deciding to go up to that viewpoint and just deal with the minor extra tiredness if I do get to go up tonight, tho I suspect that's unlikely. I didn't go into any tour agencies but I have at least identified a few. We'll see how things look tomorrow morning and I'll decide to what extent I need to "panic" and start asking tour agencies etc.
Notwithstanding lack of any actual concrete hike opportunity yet, I have also spoke to more people today than I did over three days in SC and it does kind of feel like I'm getting to know a few people which may make it easier to edge into conversational groups eg this evening. Obv I have one eye on the volcano but it is nice to socialise generally and I am also interested in any info anyone can give on eg BdT and this lost+found jungle hostel.
FTR - not that this is a new strategy - I am trying not to make a "thing" out of my age. It is what it is but I'm not trying to mention it in an excuse-making etc way in random conversation.
I didn't drink that Bamboo mojito can or the beer last night. I may have one tonight but we'll see, while not huge deal I would rather not drink one then suddenly find myself able to join a hike.
Woman from bus is sitting opp with a laptop. She came into dorm when I was up there getting K1 out of locker, I said hi but she didn't really respond. It is very borderline awkward with her there but it's not as though I'm ignoring her so I think it's fine.
TBH the prospect of loitering around on terrace for the next 3.5h-ish feels vaguely intimidating/boring but it's fine. Maybe some pleasant chat will crop up (but I hope no politics - Bruce's politics are not mine and he has thrown out the odd comment I don't agree with but I've simply tried to not get drawn and he seems fine with that - but I hope no politics in general) and if not at least I'm out here etc etc. Plus modulo feeling awkward I may get to eavesdrop on some useful info.
It could be awkward if I hear a group talking about doing the volcano because I do not want to force myself on anyone but I also don't want to pass up an opportunity. Just have to play it by ear.
I withdrew another USD250 from a Banco Nacional machine before "dinner" , I had hoped this would be a 5 fee but it was 6.50. Still, this replenishes my cash supplies which were running a smidge low (given I have a certain amount stashed away which I am trying not to touch).
1742 Just replaced funds in Starling account so card is ready to use again another day. (TBF in an emergency the fact I keep approx GBP300 in there - the card daily limit IIRC - but am only allowed (I did try more again today) to wd USD250 at a time means there is some cash left over even after a withdrawal.)
1745 GP reminds me this day in 2020 I was doing the three day hike from Santa Marta. Obviously that was still a while ago but this is vaguely reassuring that I've done "strenuous-ish" stuff recently, Acatenango and the Xela-Atitlan hike being 5 years ago now. I have got older of course and maybe I've crossed some threshold without being aware of it, but broadly speaking I think I'm at least as fit now as I was back then.
1827 Just realised haven't had a shower or shave yet today. I just got another coffee, I may do that after this.
1944 Had shower+shave, bit of chat with Bruce upstairs outside dorm, also asked other receptionist (one who checked me in yday) about hike and she seems to think there might be an Adrian in room 11 who wants to do it but not really sure if I am supposed to go randomly knock on door or what. I think it would prob be tomorrow not tonight anyway. I guess word may get round and I asked her to mention it to him if she sees him so maybe.
I *may* have my beer in a bit. Sitting back out on terrace, fairly quiet, couple of people on their own fiddling with phone (as am I of course).
While it may be no bad thing (and I slightly have, I guess) to shift to a later sleep cycle if this hike may come off, I may still go to bed 9ish unless there is any chat prospect.
I had a look in guide book and unless I'm missing it there is no mention of lost+found in there, FWIW. Wrt BdT v quick scan of guidebook suggests "Bocas town" is probably a reasonable entry point, I suspect shuttle (which includes boat transfer) goes there and there's lots of accom and booking for a few nights there before maybe moving on to this quieter island recommended to me which I noted name of (Bastamento??) might be a reasonable and easy way to get started.
2007 Brief chat with Swedish guy I spoke to in dorm first night. I think I might have that beer - in the super unlikely event it turns out I am doing the hike tonight one beer is not gonna be a killer.
2010 Beer.
2015 Beer is nice enough but it's not "omfg that's good" . Which is maybe no bad thing, probably reduces temptation to drink too much.
2029 Nearly finished beer.
Not sure what I'll do tomorrow. If somehow the
2352 Bed. Been chatting with Bruce.
Quick poke online. Smugarse posts on reddit suggesting (from covid era) going up without a guide is crazy let alone doing solo. Mountain lions, freezing, yada yada. One guy who has done all sorts of things like everest base camp has a blog saying it is so so hard and he did it solo during day. Yet loads of people here (earwigging) have gone up in an unguided group and they don't make out it was agonisingly terribly awful or boast about how massively fit they are. I feel jittery and frustrated now.
Fuck it. If I *am* reduced to paying for a guide this makes me feel a bit better. Current thinking is I am willing to go with an unguided group if I can find one - tho it could be awkward if they all know each other and I'm a burden - but given other hikers are apparently not that friendly etc as trying to push on themselves, I am not gonna go solo and will pay for a guide rather than soloing or not doing it.
For nth time, just fucking chill Steve. What happens happens, you have limited but not complete control. One way or another this is probably achievable and if it's not it's not as if it's a deathbed regret kind of thing. And I can't beat myself up because I'm travelling solo and (if this is an issue) am old enough I worry about chatting to other people or especially foisting myself on them for this hike.
I was feeling OKish before coming to bed and reading that shit online. Now i feel vaguely "trapped" and scared and nervous and lonely. Feh.
On a larger scale maybe this is the damn Montezuma waterfall all over again. :-)
I had earlier seen someone on tripadvisor saying it was hard but not an enormous deal if you had hiking experience, prob mentioned that earlier but fwiw in case I didn't.
But ffs, sleep or at least reading. And fucking chill! :-) New day tomorrow etc etc etc.
Sat 10th 0952 On terrace, as there's space got chair at an empty table rather than the "bar" sat at last night to increase chances of accidental chat.
Slept OKish, woke up about 0440 after prob finally going to sleep 2300ish. Felt a bit more tranquil but struggled to get back to sleep. Wasn't cold cold but it would have been nice to have a blanket instead of just a sleep. Did get off to sleep eventually and woke 9ish after seemingly being in recursive dreams (dreaming about being awake) which were semi pleasant except for one where some unseen arsehole had tried to snap my phone in half to silence an alarm.
Lying in bed more tranquilly maybe 5amish I was thinking a bit straighter. In no particular order:
- It's a fact (with mixed pros and cons) I am travelling solo. Can't be changed. No shame in being solo either.
- My age probably isn't such a factor, but again it's simply a fact etc.
- Even if I was travelling with someone else(s), be they friends from home or these mythical people who hook up with you during a trip, there's no guarantee at all they'd have the same desire or ability (I am provisionally assuming I am physically capable) to do this at least mildly strenuous hike and if I was with someone it could just as easily hamper my ability to do it as enable me.
- I was thinking (again without being overly bitter about it) that I kind of "need" to do this Sat or Sun night because while I am here Mon, I would be getting back say 7am Mon morning and needing to checkout 11 and would need to move to another hostel. Prob not a killer - I infer from last night's earwigging various people were just staying awake before letting themselves go to bed, rather than going to be on their return - but not ideal.
- Plan for today was to speak to reception, ask on the offchance about extending and about laundry facilities and then go ask about tours.
So I got up and cleaned teeth - not had shower yet, bear in mind did have one midday yday and it's not as if I've been anywhere hot or done anything strenuous - and went to chat to reception and then got coffee and came out here.
I chatted with reception in Spanish - a different woman to yday giving me an excuse, tho might have done it anyway - in Spanish, partly for practice, partly to maybe make me feel slightly more sympathetically human and less touristy and partly to "show" I speak Spanish in case it turns out to matter:
- I asked about this tour. She said the path is v clear and I asked and there are no wild animals and it's safe in that sense and it's easy in that sense. I asked about soloing and she didn't absolutely say no but said it's better with a group.
- I said I was here on my own and asked about guides. She seemed to think there were no tours offering it on foot, only 4x4 - which incidentally I don't really want to do, it sounds both miserable (motion sickness) and expensive and lacks the challenge aspect (I can get motion sickness experience on the 4x4 taxi to the boat trip and the boat trip itself) and it's not as if I've never seen sunrise from top of volcano (eg Acatenango, which some ppl earwigged on last night had done but didn't compare difficulty, and of course Acatenango is shorter and you camp and it was 5y ago and I had been at Xela altitudes for 5+ weeks beforehand). Web seemed to imply otherwise but she may know better/be more up to date.
- I think she offered and I asked her "enthusiastically" to let me know if anyone else expressed an interest. Just have to wait and see what happens.
- I got here to show me the laundry area and it is free for hand wash and given I'm in no rush and would like to have eg red ss shirt salt free and clean as possible "undershirt" for hike I may do a bit of laundry after some more coffee before heading out.
- I then asked about extending for another night and notwithstanding lack of booking.com last night I paid USD15.40 for an extra night and I can keep the same bed. This gives me an extra night (and vastly increases the utility of Mon) to find some way to do the volcano hike if I need it. If I don't need it I'm sure there is other stuff to do, modulo the shoe thing this hostel seems pleasant enough (and I may get some chat in as I get to know people/settle in and it feels like it's on the tourist routes and I may get some good tips etc even if only earwigging tho be nice to join in) and the town ditto and there are probably cheap-ish other things to do if I want to fill a day and just puttering round is probably quite nice, and staying this extra night also gets me through the last night of carnival if that matters. I didn't get a receipt (general paranoia even without this weird fucking law) but it should be fine and I didn't and generally don't want to appear distrustful etc, I didn't ask for paperwork when extending that night in SC and it was fine and generally has been fine.
So I'm feeling mildly optimistic. The thing is to do what I can to make this hike happen and if I do that I may be a bit "sad" at not managing to do it but I know I tried. My intention is to take it easy over a few free coffees, do some laundry and - I'm not starving but could eat something - go and see if I *can* find any walking tour options as a fallback and get something to eat and see the town a bit. I can't be too forceful/desperate but it does become more important than normal for me to do my best to (nicely) get chatting with people and make my desire to find a hiking partner(s) known so as to increase my chances of finding someone (eg X says to Y who expresses an interest "Oh, that old guy over there was looking for someone to go with" ).
Notwithstanding my own general shyness/reticence/etc, I do feel random groups may well be unwilling or might do it to be nice but would not prefer not to have a random stranger (esp an old-ish one) joining them. There's an element of taking responsibility for each other. The other people's fitness matters and can fuck your experience over. It's not just a 30 min chat on terrace, it's 12+h together and the experience might be spoiled. It's one thing to have to hang back cos your mate Tom who you've known since you were 16 or who you've been travelling with for the last three weeks pulled a hip muscle, it's another thing for the rando you agreed to let go with you to cause the same problem. And you know Tom is reasonably fit or at least comparable to you whereas this little old guy is an unknown. etc etc.
Of course some people may also feel safer with a larger group (eg 3 vs 2 is quite a big difference) and it may well be - eg given the apparent (tho talk is not the same as internal state, I suspect there is not a huge difference in these cases) relatively carefree attitude people take to this hike (and don't come back expressing shock at how hard it was compared to that) they might see (rightly or wrongly) little extra risk (to their enjoyment) of having a rando tag along.
Just have to see, try to be open and make contacts etc.
I noticed this morning dorm has lockers, so may leave K1 charging in one when I go out. Thumbs tingling so take a break. FWIW that long term painful right finger joint still hurts but it is perhaps better than it has been for a while, maybe the keyboard/mouse break is helping.
1019 If not clear the reason above I thought it might be important to show I speak Spanish is in case a Spanish-speaking non-English speaker(s) express interest in doing the hike. Probably not an issue, but this way that woman on reception does know I speak broadly passable Spanish and could communicate with them.
If didn't say at time I spoke with Colombian guy at hostel in VdL (which feels an eternity ago) who said he hadn't done lost city hike near Santa Marta but had spoken with (paraphrase) "normal girls who had done it and not said it was insanely hard" - I guess the point being these were averageish young women, probably not massively overweight or out of shape but not overtly athletic "oh yeah, I climb at least one mountain a week and cycle 20 miles to and from work every day" types. I might hope given the stuff I've been earwigging on that this volcano hike is similar rather than the emotional and physical rollercoaster eg that blog post made it out to be.
If I *do* find a walking tour on offer I will try not to book it today unless it is ultra rare in some way (only once a week on Mondays etc) as I would like to give myself time to find a group to go with. But it is I think worth asking round so I at least know.
1033 OK, one somewhat smugarse company does have a website saying you can book this for USD75ish. No idea if they actually operator or have availability. Another requires min 2 persons.
1106 Right, pre-rinsed ss shirt and bandanna in cold water to try to get salt out, washed (sep) 2 tops and 2 sets uw, remembering to take off my "slightly dirty" current uw+top and put fresh ones on, otherwise would only have 1 set each to wash. Apart from the automated machine starting to drain into the cold water sink I'd been using and having to switch to adjacent hot water only sink for rinse of uw, all went smoothly and stuff is on line to dry. Fingers crossed this will give a luxuriously clean feeling from line drying (albeit not right out in open air).
Having another (black) coffee. I don't really want to deal with tour agencies but it is all (maybe) Spanish practice and I don't have to go crazy doing it. No absolute rush. Gut feeling is I am gonna have a coffee or two before I go out, maybe do one or two tour companies then have lunch if I can find somewhere nice and perhaps do one or two more. If as is likely I have spare time I may walk up that 20mish trail to get the view over town this afternoon.
While it would be good to know what might happen wrt volcano hike, it does feel surprisingly good to feel relatively unhurried (a further 4 nights here and only one "must do, insofar as my best efforts allow" thing) and even doing the laundry in an unhurried and unfurtive way felt quite satisfying.
I checked forecast and temps today are supposed to rise up through mid teens to about 25C mid-afternoon IIRC. This all feels super comfortable.
For my own ref the woman on reception I spoke to is short-ish, mid-dark skin, slightly rotund (but not insanely so), mid-brown hair in a ponytail. There is a similarish (bearing in mind my poor attention to faces, I *may* remember who I spoke to from face but may not) woman but she has black hair in a bob. Round-ish face on woman I spoke to IIRC.
Oh, saw (not first one in Panama IIRC) enormous government billboard going thru David saying (from memory) "La lucha contra covid-19 nunca/no termina" . Wish I could remember whether it was nunca or no but can't be sure. It *looked* fairly fresh (rather than as is apparently traditional with covid notices having been put up when it applied and then left up forever, because why not?) but who knows.
1132 FWIW I annointed myself with sunblock from the 50ml bottle today. Just a *tiny* bit awkward getting it out (ie it's not sufficiently full it just comes out trivially) but not a big deal. (I note this just in case I ever want to try to work out how much sunblock I use daily etc. Once the bottle is empty empty I will prob refill it from the big 180ml tube.)
Maybe one more coffee and then I'll head out. Key thing to remember is to do what I can towards goal here and if it doesn't happen at least I tried.
1139 Another coffee. Earwigging. Mention of Pipekline hike which had seen mentioned online. I think this is a relatively easy thing. If it can be done solo I may do it (eg tomorrow if it isn't epically tiring etc), but anyway, just a note so I don't forget this.
Random observation: did notice eg in dorm in SC that at least some people (young people at that) are still bringing physical copies of guide books with them. I am slightly surprised given existence of electronic ones and so forth, but can also see the attraction (browsing experience vastly better with paper). Not blaming or praising, just thought this was interesting - would be easy to assume "everyone" goes electronic or simply doesn't bother with a guide book these days.
Guide books are clearly less useful than they were say 20 or probably even 10 years ago given proliferation of travel info online, widespread wifi, smartphones and things like booking.com. They could have a niche in being actually up to date in post-pandemic era but despite claims they are I don't find this tremendously true. But while they are probably on a downtrend and may or may not be dying, they are cleary not dead yet. And I do get some limited value out of my electronic one. Tho it does also pose a minor "mental health challenge" - over dramatic phrasing - by waving all this "look what a hypothetical cool active confident energetic social young urban spaceman backpacker could be doing, you're such a fucking loser Steve" stuff in my face.
1153 Fuck it, let's head out. At least serpentining the streets looking for tour agents will mix well with checking out the food options.
1719 On hostel terrace, prob back for the day now.
Fairly productive day. When got back to dorm prior to heading out two guys were chatting and it was fairly natural to join in. Got some tips on volcano from one (Juan, who did it other day) and the other guy (Bruce) has limited mobility (hip problem) but we chatted for ages and went for a shortish walk into town. Spotted a couple of hostels over the day which i may or may not nerve myself to go ask in tomorrow if necessary (really not sure how this would work). Have at least made J and B aware I am looking for someone to go with so they may mention this to anyone else who expresses an interest.
Went to a (non-Baru) supermarket with Bruce, we came back and I left him putting his stuff in kitchen. Had a coffee or two, went back out to eat - I found a localish place on main street which wasn't super clear how price worked but looked cheapish and I got rice with beans, beef and some lentils plus white coffee for USD6 which isn't too bad - and to buy some non-perishables life caffeinated energy drinks (Juan said he took coke, but I got these) and peanuts and a litre bottle of water (still have untouched gallon, but wanted a second litre bottle to be able to take) and some bananas (of which I ate three today) so in the unlikely event I unexpectedly get invited to go out to volcano tonight I am semi-prepared. Given time I may try to buy bread and ham and take some sandwiches but as it is I could probably get by.
Came back to hostel and sat on terrace and ate some bananas, hardly anyone around and decided that although Juan had advised doing as little as possible the day of volcan hike, I have to strike a balance as I can't assume I will get to go at all, so about 1630 I decided to go over to that lookout on the east side of town. Passed bar/restaurant under bridge with live music on and had brief listen from bridge along with some other people. Then up to the lookout along a cool covered walkway with houses off to the sides - slight wrong turn at start which I caught on OM - but otherwise easy to follow the covered walkway. Views from top very cool, I might well go back before I leave - if nothing else it might be nice to go up there in morning when sun will be "behind" you (maybe) instead of "in front" and the light will be different.
It is a bit annoying - not that I'm super optimistic I will get to go, but still - to feel I'm constantly "on standby" with a slim but non-zero chance of a sudden opportunity to do the hike. But it's fine, can't be helped.
I got pretty much everything done I planned today - thanks to deciding to go up to that viewpoint and just deal with the minor extra tiredness if I do get to go up tonight, tho I suspect that's unlikely. I didn't go into any tour agencies but I have at least identified a few. We'll see how things look tomorrow morning and I'll decide to what extent I need to "panic" and start asking tour agencies etc.
Notwithstanding lack of any actual concrete hike opportunity yet, I have also spoke to more people today than I did over three days in SC and it does kind of feel like I'm getting to know a few people which may make it easier to edge into conversational groups eg this evening. Obv I have one eye on the volcano but it is nice to socialise generally and I am also interested in any info anyone can give on eg BdT and this lost+found jungle hostel.
FTR - not that this is a new strategy - I am trying not to make a "thing" out of my age. It is what it is but I'm not trying to mention it in an excuse-making etc way in random conversation.
I didn't drink that Bamboo mojito can or the beer last night. I may have one tonight but we'll see, while not huge deal I would rather not drink one then suddenly find myself able to join a hike.
Woman from bus is sitting opp with a laptop. She came into dorm when I was up there getting K1 out of locker, I said hi but she didn't really respond. It is very borderline awkward with her there but it's not as though I'm ignoring her so I think it's fine.
TBH the prospect of loitering around on terrace for the next 3.5h-ish feels vaguely intimidating/boring but it's fine. Maybe some pleasant chat will crop up (but I hope no politics - Bruce's politics are not mine and he has thrown out the odd comment I don't agree with but I've simply tried to not get drawn and he seems fine with that - but I hope no politics in general) and if not at least I'm out here etc etc. Plus modulo feeling awkward I may get to eavesdrop on some useful info.
It could be awkward if I hear a group talking about doing the volcano because I do not want to force myself on anyone but I also don't want to pass up an opportunity. Just have to play it by ear.
I withdrew another USD250 from a Banco Nacional machine before "dinner" , I had hoped this would be a 5 fee but it was 6.50. Still, this replenishes my cash supplies which were running a smidge low (given I have a certain amount stashed away which I am trying not to touch).
1742 Just replaced funds in Starling account so card is ready to use again another day. (TBF in an emergency the fact I keep approx GBP300 in there - the card daily limit IIRC - but am only allowed (I did try more again today) to wd USD250 at a time means there is some cash left over even after a withdrawal.)
1745 GP reminds me this day in 2020 I was doing the three day hike from Santa Marta. Obviously that was still a while ago but this is vaguely reassuring that I've done "strenuous-ish" stuff recently, Acatenango and the Xela-Atitlan hike being 5 years ago now. I have got older of course and maybe I've crossed some threshold without being aware of it, but broadly speaking I think I'm at least as fit now as I was back then.
1827 Just realised haven't had a shower or shave yet today. I just got another coffee, I may do that after this.
1944 Had shower+shave, bit of chat with Bruce upstairs outside dorm, also asked other receptionist (one who checked me in yday) about hike and she seems to think there might be an Adrian in room 11 who wants to do it but not really sure if I am supposed to go randomly knock on door or what. I think it would prob be tomorrow not tonight anyway. I guess word may get round and I asked her to mention it to him if she sees him so maybe.
I *may* have my beer in a bit. Sitting back out on terrace, fairly quiet, couple of people on their own fiddling with phone (as am I of course).
While it may be no bad thing (and I slightly have, I guess) to shift to a later sleep cycle if this hike may come off, I may still go to bed 9ish unless there is any chat prospect.
I had a look in guide book and unless I'm missing it there is no mention of lost+found in there, FWIW. Wrt BdT v quick scan of guidebook suggests "Bocas town" is probably a reasonable entry point, I suspect shuttle (which includes boat transfer) goes there and there's lots of accom and booking for a few nights there before maybe moving on to this quieter island recommended to me which I noted name of (Bastamento??) might be a reasonable and easy way to get started.
2007 Brief chat with Swedish guy I spoke to in dorm first night. I think I might have that beer - in the super unlikely event it turns out I am doing the hike tonight one beer is not gonna be a killer.
2010 Beer.
2015 Beer is nice enough but it's not "omfg that's good" . Which is maybe no bad thing, probably reduces temptation to drink too much.
2029 Nearly finished beer.
Not sure what I'll do tomorrow. If somehow the
2352 Bed. Been chatting with Bruce.
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