Thu 8th 0751 On terrace. Cooked some pancakes badly. Coffee supply seems v low and there's no supply for me to make my own but I got the dregs out of the pot after eating first and hoping some staff member would sort it.
Didn't sleep super well, kept waking up in anticipation of "don't really want to" getting up early. Did get up 0715.
Tides actually kind of suggest not rushing. Also my current thinking is I'm gonna "forget" (if anyone complains) stuff in my locker but am gonna leave my bag with reception. That way I don't have so much need to rush back and I can go and ask about new room more "openly" when I do get back.
Shuttle has confirmed for tomorrow and they are having probs with electronic payment (there was nothing about payment last night, website doesn't ask for ccard details, I might guess they had intended to e-mail me some sort of payment link) and want me to pay driver in cash. This is fine. Them advertising an ex-tax price does continue to mildly annoy me. (To be clear, I thought it was "certain" after booking yday and getting the email of my order. But terminology and what ifs aside, they sent a confirmation email this morning.)
I feel a bit weird. The room change disruption does interrupt the tranquility of today. But they day also stretches ahead of me with not that much to fill it in a slightly intimidating way. I am also half dreading and half anticipating swimming. It is what it is. I would still love to finally get some sense of "temporary settlement" in Panama - so far it's been 2 nights, 2 nights, "2+1" nights.
1238 At hostel on lower terrace. Bed not ready but they let me take my bag up, I do have lower bunk (5 again, but in dorm 2 not 1 - on random note was in room 11 in PC hostel, so let's see which room I am in next term) and have chained bag to it and moved my stuff over to locker in new dorm.
Still wearing beach stuff plus shoes, tho have changed bandanna for cap. Don't feel overly ridiculous, I may look ridiculous but probably no more than usual and probably no one cares and I probably shouldn't care if they do etc etc. Plan is to hang round here 30-60 mins, then stash K1 back in locker and head down to town beach for meditative staring and maybe intermittent snacks before coming back here for shower 5ish at which point will put my "normal" clothes on.
Before I forget:
- there are presumably those crabs I saw in CR which live in holes on beach and emerge for forays which leave fractaly flower patterns on the beach, judging from some (not mega common) sightings of those patterns, but not seen those crabs yet
- there are hermit crabs here, though only seen a handful at a time
- yday while at town beach post swim a woman came up and spoke to me in English, said she was from Barcelona and said they were hiring a boat across to beach on the island (which may or may not SC island) and did I want to share the ride. I was a bit taken aback/suspicious but politelyish declined. I did see her and friend get into a boat a bit later so quite poss genuine. Scope for one of those "missed opp" feelings here, but I don't regret it - I had no water on me, virtually no money (short of raking out emergency supplies from trousers in bag) and was genuinely about to go back to hostel and had no real desire to spend hours "trapped" on a beach on island wondering how and when I'd get back.
I asked guy on desk and it's carnival here - all over Panama - this weekend (until Wed), same as in Brazil (I did mention Colombia being earlier but he wondered if it was pre-party or something, maybe, or maybe Barranq *is* earlier). So fingers crossed I can get accom Tue-ish but maybe things will ease off after this. I may have to make a special point of booking eg an extra night in Boquete sooner rather than later.
Did go swim. Tide I think a bit lower and there was a slight side current (though main thrust still towards beach) and because it was lower the shelving beach hit an inflection point relatively close to shore - it would be "waist+" deep and then heading an extra metre or two out would make it tiptoe neck deep (depending on waves passing over). I therefore perhaps didn't swim as far each time but who knows. In water for about 45 mins and did front and a bit of side (tho was worried I kept getting turned by current/own incompetence doing that) and also tried floating a bit to see if I could feel the waves passing "over" me - the latter not super successful, in part just due to bad luck with waves during briefish interval I was trying it and also due to vague worries about somehow accidentally floating too far out. Still, reasonably satisfied with the effort I made.
Went and got some snacks and a can of non-alc malt drink at ms near town beach and had those on town beach before coming back here.
I just may try to swim off town beach - leaving almost everything at hostel, ewhatsit beach feels relatively deserted but town beach just feels a bit smaller and more theft prone - tomorrow morning, if I'm up 8ish I'd likely have tonnes of time before 11 checkout and in reality given there are showers which aren't inside a dorm and I doubt they are gonna make a full I can prob just pack before I head out and leave bag chained to bunk and valuables in locker and even if I were back after 11 it would be OK, and in reality I'd be back by 11 and might just eg take my bag into bathroom to shower and change etc post 11.
1343 Longish chat with parents. Got a feeling I may have a "strip" of sunburn on left forehead but maybe it's sand friction from cap or something like that. I didn't appear to burn significantly yesterday so no reason to expect major problems today. Anyway, I think I'll go stash K1 in dorm and go to beach with a fresh bottle of water and maybe get a snack later. Plan is still to be back here for shower 5ish but I may or may not stay out all the time til then.
1945 Back at hostel. Got bottle water at ms out front.
Do have a "strip" between eyebrows and where bandanna would come to which is burned. Meh. No idea if from today or yesterday. The "sharp" edge does at least suggest the bandanna is having a significant blocking effect, though I have been putting sunblock under it to be safe, but maybe that's not necessary. Can feel it now but not agonising and fingers crossed it won't get worse. Lesson learned anyway. I can't help feeling back of neck is slightly burned despite always putting block on it, and I think right lower arm is a big. Nothing (fingers crossed) major.
Hung around hostel for a bit, went out to town beach mid afternoon - got bag of 5 cinnamon buns, had 3 (and had had 1 during post swim snack) and have so far saved other 2 for tomorrow. Came back from town beach and hung round hostel bit more then shower and back out for sunset - had can of malt drink (quite nice, not sure if had it before) during post swim muse, and got another two for sunset. Then to place (took photo of menu) been to last two nights for puerco asado (not a "steak" this time, but good) and french fries and back here.
I was *not* in a bad mood but have a feeling I was unintentionally brusque at restaurant. Oh well. I wasn't actively rude or anything.
During mid-afternoon visit to town beach *just once* I looked up and about 5-10 fish were leaping out of the water near the shore. Pretty cool to just catch that. I didn't see it happen again. (I am not staring out at water constantly, I dunno if it's glare or what but doing that feels vaguely painful.)
Will be vaguely sad to leave but also be nice to move on.
I have said hi to a few people in dorm etc but - again I am *not* in a bad mood as such - I haven't always done it and since I don't recognise anyone and I don't know whether I should say it every time I go in and someone is there I haven't always said it so some people might think I've been "rude" or shy or something. It's fine. Maybe I'm just feeling a bit run down or something, or (irrationally) as I'm nearly out of here I'm feeling it's not worth somehow making an effort to magically recognise people. (In all seriousness, I do need to at least try to study people's faces quickly when I first see them.)
I have definitely eaten too much junk today (but no alcohol). If it's readily available might be nice to eat some fruit in Boq.
2014 Net gone out again. Am having a look at reserving for Capurgana post-trip. Gut feeling is gonna go with the cheap place (not "official" trip hostel - it is either not on booking.com or it is sold out) which is right near the official hostel as it should be easy to find, some other places do show as having aircon and this place just has fans but it's probably fine, and by the sound of it the electricity goes off half the time anyway. Not saying aircon wouldn't be nice but the location being practically on the dock counts for a lot. I honestly don't expect to be seeing anyone from the trip in Capurgana - but who knows - but I should not deliberately put myself miles away straight off.
2019 Power gone out. Dramatic.
The official one *is* on booking.com but they want GBP63 for two nights, have one room left (this is a room) and I suspect they have dorms but those are booked up (not that I want one post boat). I will double check once the power comes back on and I have wifi on K1 but I want privacy but I am not paying those prices - the USD40ish for two nights other place with a private room with a fan will do me fine. *If* (poss won't given malaria risk and/or - power back - general time constraints) I want to hang around the area a bit I can always book something else then, the point is to lock something in so I can print it pre-trip to satisfy Colombian immigration and to have a private room to sort myself out in etc post-trip.
2028 The maps on booking/GM are fucked for Capurgana. The "official" hotel, address "muelle", shows as a bit inland. It also FWIW does not list aircon on booking.com.
2053 OK, sod it. Booked the accom I think is right by the official one for what after taxes is prob about USD20/night. Free cancellation but somewhat annoyingly only up to 19th Feb, but that's better than nothing. Reviews contradictory about whether mosquito nets are provided or not so I've requested one, can't hurt to do so politely and may help.
Some other accom *might* be nicer but I think convenience is key here. Plus I think the official ho(s)tel has a public bar so if I do want to see anyone after the trip I guess meetings will be in those open-to-public common areas. Also while trip is not cheap it is a bit of a budget thing and I could actually half imagine most people not staying at the recommended place given how expensive it seems - tho as I say maybe it has dorms and it is just booked near full because of other people on trip.
Considering it's arse of nowhere the sheer number of hostels in Capurgana at all price points on booking.com feels bizarre, after being in actual " popular" bits of Panama and it feeling like there's next to nothing.
Oh, there are generally lots of condors (my term) around in Panama, quite common to see a few soaring around which is cool. This afternoon one landed in tree you can see from covered area of hostel terrace and both the hostel cats were lying on the terrace floor and were staring raptly at the condor. I have some poss not v good photos (used digital zoom just to try to avoid it getting lost) of the condor in the tree and sep photos of the cats staring at it - timestamps/filenames would obviously correlate these.
Do feel bit BNM as a few people chatting at tables but for all I know they came together etc (the hostel is also advertising the "pool bar" out front, tho I suspect quieter upstairs terrace is guests only). Broadly feeling OK tho. Will see how prospect of swim appeals tomorrow morning. Did just yawn. (It's 9pm.) Will be slightly sad to leave, both town and hostel. It isn't super clear everyone else at hostel has been meeting new friends left right and centre so I don't feel too bad about hardly speaking to anyone, I have had some minor attitude problems (plus the 8 bed dorms and general larger size of hostel - it's not huge of course - do perhaps tax my face recognition skills further) and I guess changing dorm hasn't helped either. It's fine.
Despite knowing I had to leave tomorrow I was also feeling a bit bored just today. The swim was kind of fun but it's over by 11-12ish and then the afternoon hangs heavyish. And while no Tamarindo, this is a very "rural tourist" town - there are no ordinary cheap restaurants, no ordinary big supermarkets, no cheapish coffee shops - and while it's nice enough to visit it isn't all that "comfortable" if you don't want to be paying tourist prices etc. I don't say eg staying at that hostel on beach next two nights might not have been fun in a vague "playing at Robinson Crusoe" way and just "relaxing into" the nothingness etc, but it's also probably no huge loss to be moving on. I suspect/hope pretend-RC stuff is an option in BdT anyway.
Have formed vague plans to be more organised and sort various kinds of personal shit out and get stuff done when I get home. We'll see I guess. :-)
Yawning again. I am vaguely tempted to go to bed.
While at beach for sunset a nice "stray-ish" (tho for all I know it is owned by someone in town and just allowed to wander - looks in superficially good condition) tan dog I think I've seen before was being friendly with a near-twin dog with its owner (mildly miserable looking local woman and her kid) and the owner was shooing the other dog off, but I noticed them playing together all over the beach a few minutes later. Actually have some video from a little bit later of those two dogs together.
Yawning again. In an utterly silly way it feels vaguely weak/foolish to go to bed while "everyone else" (ie a handful of people, probably two tables of 3ish, literally) is still up. It's not that I have the least expectation or even much desire to chat with any of them. I'm not drinking today and I really don't want a beer, I feel vaguely bloated on junk.
Yawning like mad. Fuck it, let's at least go clean my teeth. I am gonna send this now. Jesus I am really yawning seriously. Genuinely surprised but not exactly bad thing.
Didn't sleep super well, kept waking up in anticipation of "don't really want to" getting up early. Did get up 0715.
Tides actually kind of suggest not rushing. Also my current thinking is I'm gonna "forget" (if anyone complains) stuff in my locker but am gonna leave my bag with reception. That way I don't have so much need to rush back and I can go and ask about new room more "openly" when I do get back.
Shuttle has confirmed for tomorrow and they are having probs with electronic payment (there was nothing about payment last night, website doesn't ask for ccard details, I might guess they had intended to e-mail me some sort of payment link) and want me to pay driver in cash. This is fine. Them advertising an ex-tax price does continue to mildly annoy me. (To be clear, I thought it was "certain" after booking yday and getting the email of my order. But terminology and what ifs aside, they sent a confirmation email this morning.)
I feel a bit weird. The room change disruption does interrupt the tranquility of today. But they day also stretches ahead of me with not that much to fill it in a slightly intimidating way. I am also half dreading and half anticipating swimming. It is what it is. I would still love to finally get some sense of "temporary settlement" in Panama - so far it's been 2 nights, 2 nights, "2+1" nights.
1238 At hostel on lower terrace. Bed not ready but they let me take my bag up, I do have lower bunk (5 again, but in dorm 2 not 1 - on random note was in room 11 in PC hostel, so let's see which room I am in next term) and have chained bag to it and moved my stuff over to locker in new dorm.
Still wearing beach stuff plus shoes, tho have changed bandanna for cap. Don't feel overly ridiculous, I may look ridiculous but probably no more than usual and probably no one cares and I probably shouldn't care if they do etc etc. Plan is to hang round here 30-60 mins, then stash K1 back in locker and head down to town beach for meditative staring and maybe intermittent snacks before coming back here for shower 5ish at which point will put my "normal" clothes on.
Before I forget:
- there are presumably those crabs I saw in CR which live in holes on beach and emerge for forays which leave fractaly flower patterns on the beach, judging from some (not mega common) sightings of those patterns, but not seen those crabs yet
- there are hermit crabs here, though only seen a handful at a time
- yday while at town beach post swim a woman came up and spoke to me in English, said she was from Barcelona and said they were hiring a boat across to beach on the island (which may or may not SC island) and did I want to share the ride. I was a bit taken aback/suspicious but politelyish declined. I did see her and friend get into a boat a bit later so quite poss genuine. Scope for one of those "missed opp" feelings here, but I don't regret it - I had no water on me, virtually no money (short of raking out emergency supplies from trousers in bag) and was genuinely about to go back to hostel and had no real desire to spend hours "trapped" on a beach on island wondering how and when I'd get back.
I asked guy on desk and it's carnival here - all over Panama - this weekend (until Wed), same as in Brazil (I did mention Colombia being earlier but he wondered if it was pre-party or something, maybe, or maybe Barranq *is* earlier). So fingers crossed I can get accom Tue-ish but maybe things will ease off after this. I may have to make a special point of booking eg an extra night in Boquete sooner rather than later.
Did go swim. Tide I think a bit lower and there was a slight side current (though main thrust still towards beach) and because it was lower the shelving beach hit an inflection point relatively close to shore - it would be "waist+" deep and then heading an extra metre or two out would make it tiptoe neck deep (depending on waves passing over). I therefore perhaps didn't swim as far each time but who knows. In water for about 45 mins and did front and a bit of side (tho was worried I kept getting turned by current/own incompetence doing that) and also tried floating a bit to see if I could feel the waves passing "over" me - the latter not super successful, in part just due to bad luck with waves during briefish interval I was trying it and also due to vague worries about somehow accidentally floating too far out. Still, reasonably satisfied with the effort I made.
Went and got some snacks and a can of non-alc malt drink at ms near town beach and had those on town beach before coming back here.
I just may try to swim off town beach - leaving almost everything at hostel, ewhatsit beach feels relatively deserted but town beach just feels a bit smaller and more theft prone - tomorrow morning, if I'm up 8ish I'd likely have tonnes of time before 11 checkout and in reality given there are showers which aren't inside a dorm and I doubt they are gonna make a full I can prob just pack before I head out and leave bag chained to bunk and valuables in locker and even if I were back after 11 it would be OK, and in reality I'd be back by 11 and might just eg take my bag into bathroom to shower and change etc post 11.
1343 Longish chat with parents. Got a feeling I may have a "strip" of sunburn on left forehead but maybe it's sand friction from cap or something like that. I didn't appear to burn significantly yesterday so no reason to expect major problems today. Anyway, I think I'll go stash K1 in dorm and go to beach with a fresh bottle of water and maybe get a snack later. Plan is still to be back here for shower 5ish but I may or may not stay out all the time til then.
1945 Back at hostel. Got bottle water at ms out front.
Do have a "strip" between eyebrows and where bandanna would come to which is burned. Meh. No idea if from today or yesterday. The "sharp" edge does at least suggest the bandanna is having a significant blocking effect, though I have been putting sunblock under it to be safe, but maybe that's not necessary. Can feel it now but not agonising and fingers crossed it won't get worse. Lesson learned anyway. I can't help feeling back of neck is slightly burned despite always putting block on it, and I think right lower arm is a big. Nothing (fingers crossed) major.
Hung around hostel for a bit, went out to town beach mid afternoon - got bag of 5 cinnamon buns, had 3 (and had had 1 during post swim snack) and have so far saved other 2 for tomorrow. Came back from town beach and hung round hostel bit more then shower and back out for sunset - had can of malt drink (quite nice, not sure if had it before) during post swim muse, and got another two for sunset. Then to place (took photo of menu) been to last two nights for puerco asado (not a "steak" this time, but good) and french fries and back here.
I was *not* in a bad mood but have a feeling I was unintentionally brusque at restaurant. Oh well. I wasn't actively rude or anything.
During mid-afternoon visit to town beach *just once* I looked up and about 5-10 fish were leaping out of the water near the shore. Pretty cool to just catch that. I didn't see it happen again. (I am not staring out at water constantly, I dunno if it's glare or what but doing that feels vaguely painful.)
Will be vaguely sad to leave but also be nice to move on.
I have said hi to a few people in dorm etc but - again I am *not* in a bad mood as such - I haven't always done it and since I don't recognise anyone and I don't know whether I should say it every time I go in and someone is there I haven't always said it so some people might think I've been "rude" or shy or something. It's fine. Maybe I'm just feeling a bit run down or something, or (irrationally) as I'm nearly out of here I'm feeling it's not worth somehow making an effort to magically recognise people. (In all seriousness, I do need to at least try to study people's faces quickly when I first see them.)
I have definitely eaten too much junk today (but no alcohol). If it's readily available might be nice to eat some fruit in Boq.
2014 Net gone out again. Am having a look at reserving for Capurgana post-trip. Gut feeling is gonna go with the cheap place (not "official" trip hostel - it is either not on booking.com or it is sold out) which is right near the official hostel as it should be easy to find, some other places do show as having aircon and this place just has fans but it's probably fine, and by the sound of it the electricity goes off half the time anyway. Not saying aircon wouldn't be nice but the location being practically on the dock counts for a lot. I honestly don't expect to be seeing anyone from the trip in Capurgana - but who knows - but I should not deliberately put myself miles away straight off.
2019 Power gone out. Dramatic.
The official one *is* on booking.com but they want GBP63 for two nights, have one room left (this is a room) and I suspect they have dorms but those are booked up (not that I want one post boat). I will double check once the power comes back on and I have wifi on K1 but I want privacy but I am not paying those prices - the USD40ish for two nights other place with a private room with a fan will do me fine. *If* (poss won't given malaria risk and/or - power back - general time constraints) I want to hang around the area a bit I can always book something else then, the point is to lock something in so I can print it pre-trip to satisfy Colombian immigration and to have a private room to sort myself out in etc post-trip.
2028 The maps on booking/GM are fucked for Capurgana. The "official" hotel, address "muelle", shows as a bit inland. It also FWIW does not list aircon on booking.com.
2053 OK, sod it. Booked the accom I think is right by the official one for what after taxes is prob about USD20/night. Free cancellation but somewhat annoyingly only up to 19th Feb, but that's better than nothing. Reviews contradictory about whether mosquito nets are provided or not so I've requested one, can't hurt to do so politely and may help.
Some other accom *might* be nicer but I think convenience is key here. Plus I think the official ho(s)tel has a public bar so if I do want to see anyone after the trip I guess meetings will be in those open-to-public common areas. Also while trip is not cheap it is a bit of a budget thing and I could actually half imagine most people not staying at the recommended place given how expensive it seems - tho as I say maybe it has dorms and it is just booked near full because of other people on trip.
Considering it's arse of nowhere the sheer number of hostels in Capurgana at all price points on booking.com feels bizarre, after being in actual " popular" bits of Panama and it feeling like there's next to nothing.
Oh, there are generally lots of condors (my term) around in Panama, quite common to see a few soaring around which is cool. This afternoon one landed in tree you can see from covered area of hostel terrace and both the hostel cats were lying on the terrace floor and were staring raptly at the condor. I have some poss not v good photos (used digital zoom just to try to avoid it getting lost) of the condor in the tree and sep photos of the cats staring at it - timestamps/filenames would obviously correlate these.
Do feel bit BNM as a few people chatting at tables but for all I know they came together etc (the hostel is also advertising the "pool bar" out front, tho I suspect quieter upstairs terrace is guests only). Broadly feeling OK tho. Will see how prospect of swim appeals tomorrow morning. Did just yawn. (It's 9pm.) Will be slightly sad to leave, both town and hostel. It isn't super clear everyone else at hostel has been meeting new friends left right and centre so I don't feel too bad about hardly speaking to anyone, I have had some minor attitude problems (plus the 8 bed dorms and general larger size of hostel - it's not huge of course - do perhaps tax my face recognition skills further) and I guess changing dorm hasn't helped either. It's fine.
Despite knowing I had to leave tomorrow I was also feeling a bit bored just today. The swim was kind of fun but it's over by 11-12ish and then the afternoon hangs heavyish. And while no Tamarindo, this is a very "rural tourist" town - there are no ordinary cheap restaurants, no ordinary big supermarkets, no cheapish coffee shops - and while it's nice enough to visit it isn't all that "comfortable" if you don't want to be paying tourist prices etc. I don't say eg staying at that hostel on beach next two nights might not have been fun in a vague "playing at Robinson Crusoe" way and just "relaxing into" the nothingness etc, but it's also probably no huge loss to be moving on. I suspect/hope pretend-RC stuff is an option in BdT anyway.
Have formed vague plans to be more organised and sort various kinds of personal shit out and get stuff done when I get home. We'll see I guess. :-)
Yawning again. I am vaguely tempted to go to bed.
While at beach for sunset a nice "stray-ish" (tho for all I know it is owned by someone in town and just allowed to wander - looks in superficially good condition) tan dog I think I've seen before was being friendly with a near-twin dog with its owner (mildly miserable looking local woman and her kid) and the owner was shooing the other dog off, but I noticed them playing together all over the beach a few minutes later. Actually have some video from a little bit later of those two dogs together.
Yawning again. In an utterly silly way it feels vaguely weak/foolish to go to bed while "everyone else" (ie a handful of people, probably two tables of 3ish, literally) is still up. It's not that I have the least expectation or even much desire to chat with any of them. I'm not drinking today and I really don't want a beer, I feel vaguely bloated on junk.
Yawning like mad. Fuck it, let's at least go clean my teeth. I am gonna send this now. Jesus I am really yawning seriously. Genuinely surprised but not exactly bad thing.
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