Vallenar, Wednesday

0848 I must be fucking nuts, I'm sat in the plaza (Plaza O'Higgins) waiting for the 9am chimes.

1201 Captured chimes on video (why oh why can't the camera have a sound-only recording mode like the Casio I used to have? The video is 700MB and I feel compelled to keep it, but that's a big chunk of storage when I'm not at home. I also recorded on phone with Smart Voice Recorder but figured quality would be better on camera. I might recompress the video later on, the camera inevitably can't afford the CPU time to do a decently tight encoding). Went back to hotel, decided not to go back to bed, fiddled with that video a little (xz lossless compression didn't help, not much surprise), showered, packed. Chap let me leave bag at hotel when left just now. Going to have pizza then walk over to other side of town where OSM shows a bridge, WTF, nothing else to do. Bus 2240, said I'd be back at hotel 9ish. Fruit mid-afternoon and perhaps lard out on chicken, rice and chips this evening. Eating too much but meh.

Oh, am seriously leaning towards getting an earlyish bus Calama-Arica (say 9am) then I'd probably be in Arica 3pm ish and could feasibly cross the border to Tacna without feeling too rushed or adding stress by doing it at night. I could then spend two nights in Tacna giving at least one full day and maybe most of the following day depending on bus out. That would save 'wasting' a night in Arica, the place is perfectly nice but I have been there before and this journey up through northern Chile has swallowed up quite a bit of time already and probably be better to press straight on to Tacna. Will probably mull this over and try to book something in Tacna once I am at hotel in Calama. No emails from mine tour people to tell me if am on waiting list or not, but I am going to Calama now anyway and I've done all I can and I will just turn up and hope.

1412 OK, had pizza and diet coke and then nursed a large espresso but time to get bill, have slash and go for a walk.

Bill 7250, making it 8000.

1912 At place came last night, Billboard on Prat. Having 1(.2) litre of Cristal and no food; I am not hungry having had pizza and fruit earlier, so silly to eat. Walked over to other side of valley, quite nice views and sort of cool to be seeing something a smidge obscure (from a tourist perspective). Then over past bus terminals partly to be sure I could locate TurBus tonight and to see if the old railway station had anything interesting to look at; if it did I missed it. Then wandered a bit, got fruit and water and 1.5 litre diet ginger ale and stood in street for ages eating and feeling slightly bloated and musing over stuff. Then into square for brief sit and use of free wifi for mail before coming here. In square hearing church bells play some tune didn't recognise for 7pm felt slightly sad to be leaving and probably never coming back, but while pleasant and sort of relaxing the place is a bit dull and as I always say better to be sad to be leaving that pleased.

2059 Still got bit left but paid, 2.5k, make it 3k but didn't want to say that to waitress so she will have to trog back over with change which I will leave on table.

2133 At terminal. Left bar 2115, had bag by 2125. Walk over bit dark but loads of pedestrians plus ended up following group of guys anyway so no worries. Two guys in a van asked me for advice, say I was a tourist but would help if I could but they dismissed me. Noticed earlier but again just now there is small shop near terminals called 'Quinta Estacion'. Didn't notice early an oil-painted-ish sign about 'nuestro patrimonio' or something pointing out notable buildings in town. No major details so not a huge touristic loss but still. It mentions the old train station; honestly. the building on the site looks like a small doctor's surgery, I wonder if you can go inside it but it was fair from obvious and I didn't try.

Wish I was at the main terminal not this tiny TurBus one, especially after feeling badly treated when bought ticket here, but meh. Will definitely not rush into buying with TB on arrival in Calama, even if they aren't at a shared terminal there. Touch wood etc but I have two nights there and I would hope therefore that even if I postpone buying my ticket til tomorrow night (not that I intend to, unless I am pushed for time to drop bag at hotel and go to mine tour office for 1pm) I won't be stuck for a bus to Arica on Saturday. Plus I plan to go during the day so semi-cama is super acceptable, clasico also no problemo.

Battery 33% so think wil switch to spare. Recharging both is a minor hassle but probably worth it.

2209 Unusually for me have dug headphones out and am listening at terminal. Half Man Half Biscuit's "Surging Out Of Convalescence" continues to cheer me up (not that I was feeling so down) and has to be a strong contender for personal best song ever.

Vallenar, Tuesday

1514 Had shower and done some illicit laundry. The wifi does work at least.

2109 Had Spanish lesson at 5, came out 830ish with hope of recording church bell version of Piano Man at 9 but it played something else. I may get up early tomorrow to try at 9am. Somewhat lardily I am at the place I failed to get food at this morning for chicken with rice *and* chips and a litre bottle of Cristal (which I am hoping is weaker than Escudo).

FFS in a good way. It's a 1.2 litre bottle, though it's 'only'. 4.6%.

Oh, I wanted to try the ca[sz]uela de ave but it isn't on. That is kind of how I was justifying a second 'proper' meal to myself, on grounds I was trying something new. Oh well.

2214 Not quite finished beer but getting bill, 5.5k. Got to look into cross-border buses from Calama when get back, bit of a drag, also need to check F&CO website etc. Tipping 600. Food pretty good. Also need to mark hotel & mine office on OSM in Calama. Need to be aware re buses so I can try to book one (modulo a major rush to drop bag off and go to mine office) on arrival in Calama. I emailed mine tour place this afternoon to see if I am on waiting list - think already said they never replied to my email saying I wanted to be put on - but not had any response yet.

This is a bar kind of place but it's just me and the owner/waiter/whatever here. Was one other chap in before. I suppose it is only Tuesday and perhaps it's also a bit early. Not a problem, just an observation.

2228 Forcing this beer down a bit as want to get back before too late re possible curfew plus things need to do. TV weather reminds me somewhat oddly that one of the boys I met on cruise in Valdivia said the moai in La Serena is *not* an original (contrary to my belief it was the only one not still on Easter Island) but that the sole such non-EI-resident original was somewhere in England. I suspect he is wrong, but who knows, worth researching at some point.

2243 Back, owner (presumably) chap gave me a tray with teabags and thermos of hot water and couple of biscuits, which is nice. Not going to name hotel on blog, will try to give balanced review if is on tripadvisor but do feel nature of 'private' bathroom highly deceptive and (even without the possibly-only-honest-hotel or possibly-exploitative tax issue) I do feel it's fing expensive for what it is. Maybe Vallenar is expensive, but for this I am paying only a smidge less (CLP40k vs CLP38k/night) than I paid for a fucking apartment in Santiago a block away from the Plaza de Armas. Anyway, less ranting, more getting research etc out of way.

2317 OK, it looks like there is probably no bus from Calama to Peru, so although I will see what it's like at bus stn I probably need to go to Arica. Tacna, Peru (just across border) now appears to have semi-cheap online bookable hotels, so I may spend a night or two there. F&CO not too scary wrt Peru through need to check before going on to anywhere. They do make the crossing from Peru directly into Colombia sound a bit dodgy (limited police presence, stay in groups) so although I always assumed I would go up through Ecuador anyway that suggests more so.

I am *not* intending to try to visit Macchu Pichu, unless it is an easyish daytrip from Cusco. If I ever do the Inca Trail it would make sense for MP to be new to be, and if I do the IT I feel it would be prudentish to do it on a shortish holiday (eg while I have a contract) when I could travel with appropriate gear and perhaps 'train up' a little first. Obviously will play things by ear a little but rough plan is something like couple of nights in Tasca (one night if nothing to do there, maybe), onto Cusco (I have been to Arequipa and Puno and Nazca) for a few nights, on to Lima for a few nights then push up towards Ecuador, probably stopping a couple of nights in one place to break journey up. Very roughly (calling it four nights each in Lima and Cusco and shoving in overnight buses) that is a bit over a fortnight. I would be leaving Peru approximately 24th Feb. That would give me about five weeks for Ecuador and Colombia, assuming I either fly back from Colombia to BA or do an intense bus trip across to BA and without allowing any significant time in BA (not a problem in itself, already spent 4 days this trip, but obviously I need a buffer).

Am I spreading myself a little thin? Possibly. But no harm in that, it's not as if I am going to say 'I've been to (eg) Ecuador, not going back' so if I only see a few places it is a taster. The only thing is, by stretching myself am I spending too high a proportion of my time on buses? Somewhat arbitrarily looking at Lima-Quito, that flight is £315. The road distance according to Google is 1812km or 1 day of driving, so on my 'I value my time at £100/day' approximation it is probably prudent to hop that direction by bus doing up to three overnights, as long as the places I visit on my way are at least interesting enough to justify 1-2 nights there on their own merits. If I don't get bent out of shape about getting as far as Colombia, they probably are. Were the hotel cheaper, even Vallenar has been kind of cool to see for 1-2 days/1 night; in a silly way the Piano Man church clock is one of those charmingly obscure discoveries which will be a memory to look back on. (Also Quito is north edge of Ecuador, so naturally if you were bussing it in this south-north direction you would *want* to break the journey at least once or twice so as to see more of Ecuador than just Quito anyway. Ecuador is also not that huge, not to say there isn't plenty to see but for a taster I suspect the amount of travel within the country needn't be hugely time consuming, depending on state of the roads.)

Perhaps (assuming I like Colombia/Ecuador) on a future three month trip to Latin America I might fly into Bogota, head south through Ecuador into Peru, spending most of my time on those three countries, then blat down to Santiago (frankly I wonder if the 22h-ish bus journey would be tolerably un-hellish if you went cama and allowed a night to recover in Santiago) before flying home from there. Of course I also want to do central America and Mexico again. But *as long as I enjoy (most) of the journey and don't get totally focussed on getting to Colombia ASAP* I think it's reasonable to do roughly what I am proposing.

Incidentally a flight from Bogota (though I might want to fly from elsewhere, of course) to Buenos Aires at the end of March weighs in at £360 right now if you pick the right day, though none of those are direct, they generally require a change in Lima and some in Cali as well. There are no direct ones regardless of price. I need to let my subconscious grind over the implications of this, if any. Should I fly up from Lima to Bogota then make my way by bus back south? Does that make any difference? Can't think straight right now and it doesn't alter my plans for next few days.

Looking at map you could maybe do an interesting bus trip Colombia-Brazil-Paraguay/Uruguay-Buenos Aires but it would take weeks if you stopped anywhere en route and if you don't it would be pointless, and I don't want to visit Brazil with my current language skills. You could potentially do Lima/Cusco through Bolivia and Paraguay down to BA (I kind of did the Paraguay-BA bit of that in 2010) but for the sake of £360 and the tiny tiny dissatisfactoriness of not completing the circuit entirely overland I don't think it's worth it. I am sure there's good stuff I haven't yet seen in Bolivia and Paraguay, my travels in both have been limited (especially in Paraguay) but at the same time I'd much rather have a taster of Ecuador and Colombia than do that.

Do need to avoid booking the X-BA flight too late on but I certainly don't need to decide now. I think the main thing is that I don't do too many one or two night stopovers just to allow myself to cover distance; I need to be aiming at three or four in most cases. I will perhaps sketch out a more detailed itinerary based on actually reading guide book in a day or two. But for tonight the lesson has to be that I probably can't get a bus to Peru from Calama so I probably want to go to Arica (during the day; it's about 6h) and either go early enough to be able to cross to Tacna same day or stay one night in Arica, but if I can get a bus somehow I now also know Tacna/Arequipa (worth it if it was direct)/Cuzco would be worth it, Lima would probably cause me to 'skip' Cuzco and that would be a shame.

It's now 2353...

Oh, and frankly I'm probably not up for the Galapagos Islands this time round. Not entirely sure, will see when read guide book, but suspect they are expensive and not entirely my bag and might be better on a future trip. But let's not make any commitments now, wait til read guide books, I vaguely hope to have a dull night in one or both nights in Calama to sketch out an itinerary.

Anyway, let's move towards bed and go clean teeth etc.

Santiago-Vallenar

2249 At bus terminal. Slight doubt over exact location of platform but an hour to go yet so no super worried. Withdrew cash and picked bag up. Tried to send previous blog entry on wifi at Universidad de Santiago metro but all of a sudden it requires web authentication with RUT (Chilean NI number) and won't take my passport no (despite the web page saying 'this is for everyone' not 'this is for every Chilean'). No big deal.

Three I think a bit drunk guys at next table spoke to me not long before left that bar. I was a bit nervous (the need to get bus rather than just being out for night in need of no more than cab home and cab fare in pocket with all time in world didn't help) plus of course the short introductory kind of questions are super-colloquial and to a naturally uninformed third party suggest I speak far less Spanish than I do. Not at all hostile but bit awkward and annoying. Big presence of (silent) fire engines as I walked down to Republica and felt smidge jittery on streets based on what guide book says about Barrio Brasil but got metro no problems.

Battery 31%, think I am gonna switch and then if other one is weak I at least know I need to conserve power. I definitely need to make a point of having a beer at bars more often, just for the potential social contact, don't have to stay out late or get pissed. Anyway, bouncing phone.

2258 Tis OK, other battery at 97%. Just need to remember to recharge it in Vallenar (though it's heartening just how rarely I need to switch to spare battery, today has been exceptional with so much lurking reading on phone with this super late bus, and even today I might well have managed without switching).

2308 I was on Pullman Bus side (semi knowingly) and they shut the gate between this and 'main stn' side, had to go round via street, no big deal but good job not rushing. My bus not showing on TurBus monitors despite showing many later buses, I checked with a woman at one desk and she said it goes from here. Do wonder why not on monitors but meh. Could do w piss but not busting, will go on bus rather than pay, also give me chance to put hidden belt away after got it out to wd cash at UdeS metro and also extract ticket for left luggage.

2318 Incidentally noticed this morning lots of companies offering buses to Lima, Peru. Vaguely tempted to enquire if they stopped in Calama, but didn't. Dunno if Lima is nearest place in Peru or where I want to go, so didn't want to rush into it (and a lot of them said 'direct' so may not stop anywhere). If I can't get a ticket in Calama because it's just not a route or I am not booking sufficiently in advance I will just go on to Arica or somewhere like than and cross border from there. Something to look into maybe tomorrow and worry about when I get to Calama. I do intend to buy a ticket on to Calama tomorrow morning when I am at bus terminal in Vallenar.

I forgot to fiddle around and mark the hotel in Vallenar on OSM or Google Maps but it will be OK, I am arriving in broad daylight, OSM is semi-searchable offline and I am in no huge rush, I also think hotel is fairly near terminal and push comes to shove can get a taxi.

2323 Moved a bit nearer platform 4 where my bus is supposed to go from. Bag a smidge heavy, in part due to excess carrying of liquids; I had about 2l left in flat, but I generally have a 1.6l bottle. Maybe I should make a point of discarding surplus and only bringing 500ml with me. OTOH, in reality the amount of lugging it round I've done has been small enough the extra weight has not been a huge factor, just annoying, so perhaps silly to waste it and also compromise on the comfort of knowing I can hydrate myself silly on bus if I wish. (Though as a practical matter even when I wake up feeling shit with mouth like bottom of birdcage I virtually never take even the smallest swig from my water supply, not to preserve it but because dredging it out seems such a huge effort...)

Am also thinking I need to look into putting the various 'loose items' in my bag into some kind of container. There are not that many but enough that it makes packing (when I need to empty it to strap clothing bundle in) just a smidge more effort in reality and a disproportionately larger amount in my mind.

2330 I see there is a bus to Temuco showing departure time of 2240. Nice. I don't mind if mine is as late, except that I am going to be worrying I have missed the damn thing, which is a non-trivial concern. I am pretty sure I am in the right place but still.

2344 On bus, as per seating plan have solo seat right at front of bus. Curtains drawn so no view alas. Must set alarm as Vallenar is not final destination, though think staff may alert me when we get there, don't want to rely on it.

2358 Not left yet. Not busting but piss be nice, waiting til we pull out to go. We are just leaving now so... (Paranoia about someone grabbing my bag and jumping off bus.)

0824 Slept but not great. At Vallenar terminal. It's misty and a bit damp and cold. Yay.

0832 Fuck me. TurBus naturally have their own terminal and being here I thought I'd ask about Calama bus before wandering across road to PullmanBus terminal saw as came in. Some unpleasant barking woman served me - there was no queue. She seemed hugely unresponsive to my questions, the display showing service class was unreadable with shitty abbreviations. Because she mentioned one CondorBus service and partly because the one salon cama service she deigned to offer me had one seat free (part of a pair, sigh, though at least it was aisle) I thought I ought to buy it. 35.9k. It also arrives about 11am IIRC (TurBus don't seem to like to print this on their tickets, you just have to remember what they said when you bought it) which is a smidge tight with dropping bag off at hotel if permitted and getting to the mine office to see if I got a standby place (they never replied to my e-mail accepting their offer to go on standby list). Fucking hell, I am developing a real loathing for TurBus. To be fair, maybe they are no more expensive than the alternatives, but I'll never know now. I nearly pretended I needed to go get some cash as a way to back out of ticket purchase but as there was only that one seat (in cama on that service; for all I could get out of barking woman there might have been a trillion seats free on other cama services, and definitely no shortage in semi cama) I said 'oh no, it's OK' and paid. As she sullenly got change I wondered about the arrival time and asked if there was an earlier bus but she waved the ticket at me so I said it was OK. Still, you don't expect good service just because you pay top price for it.

0904 Loitering in plaza to read guide book - I either need to fart or shit and daren't risk trying the former and wasn't going to pay to go at bus terminal. The church bells appear to play Billy Joel's "Piano Man" before the chimes...

Oh, there was at least a slightly scraggly but friendly grey kitten at the TurBus terminal.

1024 OK, found hotel, left bag, used bog, come back out. Spotted couple of potential food places though no source of fruit/veg yet. Went into plaza to record church bells, this time played Roll Out The Barrel. Walked up some stairs to street on hills on one side of valley, not bad view, can see the road bridge which I think guide book mentions as bypassing the town so most tourists driving themselves don't stop here.

Place is a bit dull but it's OK, it was deliberately chosen as the cheapest spot I could find to break journey to Calama. Will try to have a Spanish lesson tonight if wifi works.

Was at Apartments CL, Monjias 744 in Santiago. Lots of different companies seem to do apartments in same residential block, but FWIW that was the company I went with. Their web presence seems limited to being on expedia.

1124 At Il Boccato for lunch, went into some cheap bar type place which took my order for steak and chips then a chap came over and said something about kitchen, evidently not possible. Having pizza española here, after checking it doesn't have mayonnaise on. BECAUSE SOME OF THEIR FUCKING PIZZAS LIST MAYONNAISE AS AN INGREDIENT. I THOUGHT I WAS SAFE FROM THE FUCKING STUFF WHEN EATING PIZZA. (This makes me wonder about the white saucey stuff I have occasionally found on some slightly less than delectable pizzas. But I think that was something else, I did look it up and found a name though it has slipped my mind.)

1159 It's Billy Joel day. We just had a snatch of "Don't Ask Me Why?" on the radio in here. Pizza (ham and chorizo) fairly good, portion reasonable if not leaving me absolutely stuffed. Bought a single green pepper and bottle of water at shop earlier, that's the best I've been able to do on fruit and veg so far. Lingering a little over my diet coke as I still have at least an hour before I want to present myself at hotel (checkin is 2). It is warm and sunny now and has been since at least my visit to hotel, the mist obviously went fairly quickly after dawn.

1229 Nursed that coke, going to get a large espresso and sit it out here, it's pleasantly 80sish with the radio and it's not as if there's anything else to do. Will probably loiter in room once get it if wifi works, after all I will be forced to wander the town after checkout tomorrow so no point overdoing it today, may go out for more food later. I really could do with some fruit/veg, maybe will find somewhere on way back to hotel.

1315 Coffee OK, not that I'm any connosieur, I can't even spell the word reliably. Getting bill then will use bog and see if I can find fruit before going to hotel, if I don't get it sorted out now I will have to come out again 'early' (before shops shut) instead of when I feel like it (which may be never, we'll see) or let it slide.

Bill 7400, not too unreasonable, breaking a 10k and will make it 8100. Battery at 34% but have been reading heavily.

1413 What a fucking crock of shit. It's USD53+19% tax. Admittedly technically it always says this on booking.com but I think this is the first time anyone has charged me the 19% extra. And I have a private bathroom *which I have to go out into the corridor to get to*. Because obviously my main desire for a private bathroom is my fear of cross-contamination from another person's germs, not the convenience of not having to get partially dressed after I have a shower or when I want to go to the bog at 3am. Fuck a doodle do. I did 'argue' about the price but he said it was the tax and I couldn't argue then, despite it being a misleading situation. I tried to keep things as polite as I could - no point being rude and I hope to leave my bag here tomorrow - but I can't deny I was feeling extremely ripped off (it is already fucking pricey and then there's the bathroom shit) and it probably showed on my face/body language.

Santiago, Monday

1258 In queue at 'Custodia' at bus terminal. This is OK but where bought ticket yday still heaving. Quite busy with a general doddering quality, maybe more noticeable cos I am less mobile with bag.

Naturally got up about 1130 after drowsing (tho quite pleasantly) in bed, no problems. They came with the towel cart dead on midday (checkout time) but said just to leave key on kitchen counter, fortunately this allowed me those critical few extra minutes to take a dump...

Got metro over here, thought was surprisingly busy but may be my reduced mobility again.

The luggage store has prices for things like vehicle engines and washing machines (both 4500 a day), unless I am completely misreading the sign.

Not sure what to do today, will probabily somewhat stupidly go to Jerry's for a cheap if not super luxurious bife a lo pobre after this and then look at guide book.

1315 Done, 2000. Some stuff said to me just didn't understand, should have though to turn voice recorder app on beforehand. Still, sorted.

1325 Yeah, at Jerry's, waiting for food.

1400 Looking at guide book, a lot of museums etc are closed on Mondays. So I think I might go over to Cementarios on the metro and have a wander round the cemetery, then time permitting try La Moneda (not sure if have been in there before or not).

1655 OK, just tried to get into La Moneda but I asked one of the guards and it is only open to public Sat & Sun, contrary to what guide book says, tho I am pretty sure it was La Moneda I was at and not the wrong building. I went to the cemetery earlier (almost inevitably had Cemetery Gates by The Smiths stuck in my head the whole time), was surprised to find it had (quiet) roads through it, found the monument to victims of the military dictatorship.

1847 At Restobar Litro's just off (I can see it) Plaza Brasil. Not sure about getting waiter's attention but going to have a beer.

Went to Iglesia San Francisco and (Escudo is cheapest at 2k a litre, I asked, so let's have that) then wandered round small barrio Paris-Londres behind it, saw the plaque at Londres 38 (on floor) but associated 'museum' closed, perhaps no bad thing as today has already been just a smidge on the interesting but morbid side.

Was going to go in some museum next to ISF but it was 1k to go in and it was shutting in half hour so decided not to.

2053 Nearly finished this litre. Tempted to a second. Drinking a bit for sake of it - since I have time to kill - and also bit worried about getting bag etc, but I have three hours till bus goes and I don't have to finish the second litre. I really don't want to spend two or more hours at the terminal by leaving now. Am running phone battery down reading but do have spare, assuming it is still charged - I really should have made a point of switching at some point just to build confidence and give both batteries a periodic top up but to late for that now. (Also once on bus I have my Nook, plus in reality I will probably just put music on phone and not read anything, and playing music is v power efficient.)

2102 Got second litre. Irrationally I immediately start to feel drunk. The damn stuff is 5.5% but even so, two litres (and I've only had one so far) over several hours is hardly a bender of insane proportions. I think this is psychological.

2130 Woo. La Camisa Negra. I am sat outside but music clearly audible out here. Getting bill, not leaving yet but leaves departure open and no way am I having another bottle (still loads of this left).

Bill 4.4k, I think the 400 is 10% tip, that's OK. Will pay it exactly therefore.

Santiago, Sunday

1358 Didn't get up til about midday, had bad dreams for some reason. Bit slack but in a sense good to take advantage today since I have to check out tomorrow morning. Going to go out (I know where but can't remember name, will mention it later) in a bit but thought would try to Skype parents first and no answer so will hang round bit more.

Finally forced into wiping camera lens on some nylony bit of clothing as specks on lens are spoiling a few photos. One bit of dirt was quite stuck on and had to dislodged with fingernail. Took some daytime photos off balcony as test and in case not already done, fingers crossed I have therefore not scratched the lens as they look OK.

1722 At some cafe near Bellas Artes metro. Went to Cerro Santa Lucia, then being accosted by a chap who gave me lots of tourist advice on street afterwards and who claimed to be a student of anthropoligy (who I gave a handful of change probably out of manufactured feeling I should reward him for his time) and who told me the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes was free today I went over there. I had been before - I remember the main hall - but it was pretty good, interesting to see a banner which had been displayed in a protest against the military dictatorship in Trafalgar Square in 1974.

Place is La Vuelta Resto-Bar. I am not getting any attention from any waiters.

1735 Going to try Pastel de Choclo, if I hate it I can always eat something else later.

1817 Not quite what I expected but not bad, and surprisingly filling. Not something I would want to eat all that often but glad I tried it.

1833 Got bill (I loitered a bit, service not that bad), 7300 plus suggested 700 tip. Not too bad if not mega cheap. Taking opportunity to break a 20k, then home via (if possible) chemist for sun cream and a shop for some water and possibly a snack for later.

1900 Got sun cream and drinks and some ice cream (lardy, but couldn't pass up opportunity while I still have a fridge/freezer, do wonder if should have made more of it, still) at place next to flat, since I learned yday I should tip the person who puts stuff in plastic bags there wasn't one in there, probably a first. This was not the other supermarket across the road, the one on same side as flat. They had Estrechez de Corazon playing most of the time I was in there.

Wrt to something I wondered on day I arrived, there *is* a floor 13 in this building.

0132 Should be moving towards bed soonish. Bummed around in flat all night, in some ways a waste but nice views over city and it being Sunday night no enormous lure to go out and in a very real sense it seems reasonable to enjoy this relative luxury while I have it. Have uploaded some more photos and done one or two minor chores. Checkout is midday but since it is 'nice' to be in the flat and I have half a pomelo in the fridge to eat tomorrow and I perhaps need to do a small bit of washing up would be good if can be up by about 10. We'll see I guess...

0228 In bed. Not too bad an effort I think.

Santiago, Saturday

1641 Only just left flat, been shockingly lazy but meh, I suppose if I'm enjoying myself it's OK not to be haring around. Woke up about 10-11 feeling bit rough but not too bad, actually got up more like 12. Off to Quinta Normal.

0414 Bed. Not a bad night.

Santiago, Friday

1425 Fucking hell. I'm at the fucking bus terminal trying to buy a fucking ticket to fucking Vallenar. It is fucking queue central. I just spent at least half an hour in a queue only to be told 'go to window 6 over there' when I got to the front. It is fucking impossible to compare prices with this kind of queueing. That was a Pullman Bus window so I'm now in a huge queue to enquire at Tur Bus on principle. Northern Chile is fing expensive, I am going to Vallenar in part as I could get a room for 'only' £32 a night. Calama (for the mine) is 22 hours by bus which is a stretch, so want to break journey. I am hoping there is an overnight bus Mon 3rd but fuck knows. I have a freely cancellable reservation for Tues 4th night but not for Mon 3rd, if there is no overnight bus I might buy a ticket (given the hellish queues coming back is prob not an option) for Mon and hope. I emailed the mine tour people (guide book says to do it a week in advance this time of year) asking for a slot on thu or fri next week. If I don't get on I will probably bypass Calama as it too is super expensive. I looked into flying but on Mon Santiago-Calama would be 240 quidish and on Tue 170ish, not that Tue is any good. Given I can't assume I will get on tour esp not if got to Calama by Mon on plane, and it would be super expensive (and dull) to spend four or five nights there I think the broken bus journey is best option. This is all taking a little more time than I hoped but sod it. From Calama I hope to be able to get a bus across into Peru, but not looked into that yet.

Got up about midday when aroused from doze by towel delivery. Did research on mine and breaking journey then, also had some fruit/veg. Day seemed half gone but what can you do? Obviously buying this ticket will take all afternoon, esp if need to go back to flat immediately to look for hotel for Mon night. Came over here on Metro, this is where I arrived by bus other day but wasn't going to waste time walking it today, bit of a slog even by Metro TBH.

This queue is at least moving moderately fast. Nearly at front.

1444 Fucking hell. I asked if there was a bus in Spanish and the chap summoned an adjacent bloke to talk to me in English. Anyway, it was 36k - thirty six fucking thousand - for cama on a 235x bus arriving 0915 next morning. Could have had semicama but felt best not. Cama premium was 56kish! Pullman Bus had a price list up and their cama was 27kish iirc, but with the queues from hell and the uncertainty around affordable hotels if needed to stay in Vallenar Mon night I didn't want to risk leaving it while I queued up again for Pullman Bus only to maybe find they were full or had no night bus. Maybe I could have looked on their websites to check prices but I felt pushed for time and also assumed it would be easy to do so at terminal.

Oh, bus fnal dest is Copiapo, don't think is on ticket.

Been over to adjacent terminal (where I arrived) to check where left luggage is as given the 'office' non hotel aspect on my flat accom don't expect nwould be able to pick bag up at 10pm at night even if they would let me leaveit as office prob only open during normalish working hours.

Booked Spanish lesson for 8pm which was poss stupid. Anyway, feeling quite hacked off, bit irrationally much but anyway. Will go get food I think.

2217 At 'A Otra Puerta' on Pio Nono. Somewhat pricey at 2.5k for a 750mlish bottle of lager, but meh, there was a free table outside (which is rare) and it says something about live music so we will see. Minimum per person of 4.something, ffs. Needed cash machine as well as table so did circuit, Crazy Bar doesn't seem to have live music and all else being equal better to try somewhere else. I feel a touch self-conscious

Oh you fuckers. It is a 355ml bottle. I obviously didn't hear properly or assumed. And I've got to buy another one to meet their minimum. I'm not staying here after these. Cunts. Three fucking quid for a pissy little bottle. Robbing bastards.

I'm tempted to just neck it, but that would be stupid. If anything I'm more likely to get a table somewhere else a bit later as some of these drinkers probably piss off to a club around midnight. Seriously not happy about being taken for a ride on the beer.

I wouldn't have come to Pio Nono but it's fucking impossible to find any live music on web. Guide book mentioned some bar but apart from sounding poncy as fuck I checked their poncy-as-fuck website and they have two DJs on tonight.

While I'm having a fucking miserable time might as well write today up. Went for food (had a beer with it, since it was included) at Jerry's at bus terminal (definitely been there before, either in 2010 or 2011 before getting a bus out northwards), then as per plan went over to (from memory) Salvador Allende Solidarity Museum, but it's closed until April. Walked back to hotel to see bit more of city and see if serendipity would throw some gig for tonight at me, called in at National History Museum right by plaza de armas (this is the history of the nation, not *natural* history) which was OK though four of the rooms upstairs were shut and I wanted a (soft) drink and was feeling bit rushed by Spanish lesson but was OK.

Oh, got email from mine people while in metro stn, first avail slot is 17th feb! I can go on a standby list but I need to decide if I am still going to super-expensive Calama if I only have a chance (no idea if slim or not) of doing this mine tour. Sooner reply better but prob make no difference now it's the weekend. Guess prob no downside to going on list and just not turning up. May reply to them in a minute and then it can send when get home.

Prob will go to Calama esp if I can get an international bus from there, but I might just stay the one night. I've been before and it's OK but really nothing special and only the mine was drawing me back.

2258 A woman is singing inside, may be live but not sure. Not v rock-y so not enough to tempt me to stay after this second beer. May well not stay out mega late if mood doesn't improve. Quite enjoyed Spanish lesson, perhaps cos it gave me a chance to moan a bit about today's minor but persistent shittiness. ;-) I don't speak to anyone back home on 'phone' except parents and that's v different not to mention heavily dominated by seeing Z, who however is pretty well in appearance but essentially apparently on borrowed time.

2318 Getting bill. Bit dubious about getting table elsewhere but no big deal, I don't mind doing a circuit or two, something will probably turn up - I can always go inside, most people want to be outside - and if worst comes to worst just go home. Bill taking forever to turn up, but it all gives time for the clubbers to leave. Midnight is sort of early according to guide book but I think there will be a slight exodus starting around then.

2323 I asked for the bill before I made the previous entry. Am I still required to fucking tip? Sod it, going to ask again. Was same waiter, he pointed at another guy. I understood it didn't matter who you asked. Maybe he is going to get round to me eventually. Shitty.

2327 Getting seriously pissed off. I am sober, I am going to go in and ask for the bill.

2332 Paid, was 4532 with 10% tip, paid 4550. At some place oppositeish where some guys just left table, dunno if will get any service but meh. There was a woman singing inside but not interested (and not just cos of bill glitch). The first beer I had was actually only 1650 despite what it said on menu but still pricey for 355ml. This place is opposite Kiko Schop but as my table is some way off the actual frontage of this bar can't see the name.

Accosted waiter clearing a table (I always feel bad doing that) and it's 2k for a litre of Escudo so ordered that. Don't fancy chances of making any acquaintances tonight but you never know and I am not really in the mood; if it happens sweet, if not no problem at all.

2338 Chap just came and asked if he could take a stool from table (I have a chair, but two of the four seats are stools). I was slightly thrown as I couldn't *see* the stool he was pointing at on the opposite side of table to me, but I managed.

2341 All three other seats now gone. No sign of my beer yet, but at least it's cheap here.

2347 Fuck me, has it really been fifteen minutes since I asked for that beer? Perhaps my fault, though FFS how many ways can 'un litro de escudo por favor' be misinterpreted? Let's try again.

Just said 'disculpe' to some waiter and he held up a palm in a kind of 'patience' gesture. No idea if was same one as before or not. I must say things don't seem to be going well tonight. I'm definitely not pissed - as if they'd care, unless I was *seriously* drunk. OK, let's wait another 15 minutes and see what if anything happens.

2351 Waiter (a waiter, dunno which one) just came and asked me what I want. They don't have Escudo (out of stock? putting language issues aside, I see other people have litre bottles of Escudo on their tables), but a litre of Cristal is apparently 1500. Have ordered that but won't be astounded if I get a 300ml bottle after all, that would be totally in keeping with tonight's vibe.

0002 Fan fucking tastic. Some woman just came over. Despite the fact there are no more seats at this table, I think she wants

0106 OK, I misinterpreted, she was inviting me to join her and her three friends. They just left, we had a nice chat (mostly in  Spanish). Turns out this is a gay bar, being outside and no one being overly affectionate and no rainbow flag I didn't notice. Will finish this beer and try somewhere else on this street.

Got bill before finishing, 2.5k but maybe I mishead, still ok, made it 3k.

0113 OK, now at Crazy Bar (outside), not because I particularly wanted to come here but you know, old assocations and there was a table free so WTF. Having a litre of Escudo, may have another after but play it by ear. I thought that woman wanted my table instead of inviting me over, hence earlier annoyance; to be fair I did wonder if she was inviting me over but with the linguistic uncertainty I assumed the contrary. She and one of her friends spoke a little English which eked my Spanish out nicely. No sounds of karaoke or live band (tho lack of musical instruments on stage visible through window earlier meant already suspected latter) from inside so no harm being outside. Already vastly exceeded my socialising expectations tonight so still not desperate to meet anyone but if anyone does care to speak to me obviously cool with that and not pissed yet so it would be OK.

0130 Music coming from inside which sounds as if might be live. I asked chap on door and is 3k to enter, which is fine, but I can't take my litre of beer in, and there is a sign which I misinterpreted before saying they don't sell litres of beer inside. This seems a bit silly, and I also don't fancy paying through the nose for smaller quantities of beer. I guess I am going to finish this beer outside anyway - damn well not so desperate I am going to leave a nearly full bottle - and see how I feel after and if there is still music. By that point I won't want much more (at least, not rapidly) so if I have to pay more it's not so bad, but maybe the music will be off by then. Vamos a ver. To be honest I can hear it well outside and while nicely rock-ish it's not insane and with the smoking ban loads of people are ouside. I do find this 'no litres inside' thing a bit crazy though. I hope I can still go in for a piss, but fortunately had one at the gay bar so can wait until I finish this before mulling that aspect over.

0141 Just went for irrationally needed piss and to case inside out. Is indeed a band. Tables free or could sit at bar. Got free shower from some not quite clear sprinklery quality at urinal, also a v drunk guy in corner half drooling and half vomiting. Might go in after this litre but not rushing, getting pissed would not help and not super bothered.

0221 Just went and asked the guy on the door what time the live music stopped and didn't understand a word he said, but given the time might suspect not much later. Seems a bit of a shame but I might fuck off, unless my terminal visit to the bog (and maybe asking someone inside) suggests otherwise. Is already quite late and want to be fresh for tomorrow. I might walk home though. Actually that sounds good. Given legal bars shut at 4 probably not likely to be much longer. Chap just came up to me, said 'una mas' and disappeared immediately. Hope he is not fetching me another beer. Didn't realise so late but of course that is cool in its way. Been mulling oddly over 'shipping out' and thinking should send an appreciative email to author, must be pissed.

0235 Spoke to waiter, he said music til 330, paid outside bill and 3k to come in and now inside. Karaoke lyrics on screen which do not match the music playing. Not at all sure what's going on but meh. Queue for bogs as old woman cleaning up.

0242 Front and back bars obviously different, karaoke up front. Asked to sing Por Que No Se Van. Paid 2k for schop. Meh, not as if any reason to be embarassed.

0246 Sung. Seemed a bit shorter than thought but meh, did it. Oddly proud. Some people made supportive gestures.

0330 We've had some karaoke in Spanish and English but seems to have ended now in favour of live band at back. Don't feel pissed but the thing about karaoke is you end up reading lyrics on screen and I had a bit of double vision. While not rushing home I am being a smidge cautious. No, we seem to have more karaoke now, I do think the double music sources is a bit imprudent but meh, if they can live with it so can I.

0334 Certain closing up table gathering by staff. Honestly I'd half love to bit invited on to an after hours (unlikely, I feel) and I'd half love to just go home, so as to be fresh for tomorrow.

0339 I do feel just a smidge - no more - drunk and the double vision on the lyrics doesn't help. In some ways fuck invitations, I want to see the night out. On other hands, I don't want to be knackered tomorrow night so sticking on here is arguably a bit silly. If I had met after hours friends I'd probably have done so already. But I do hate to leave before thrown out. Tension!

Woo, Juan Gabriel's Querida now. But it changes nothing. If I had nothing planned tomorrow night would definitely stick on regardless of possibilities. As it is I feel possibilities are slim and don't want to fuck tomorrow night over for them but also don't want to pass them up.

0344 OK, I am leaning strongly to just leaving. It grates to leave any kind of party semi-sober but tomorrow night is important and this isn't great, even if they are doing a La Ley song I half recognise. If I could gorge on fried chicken on  way home would seal the deal. Maybe I will walk home, it might help compromise and re tomorrow walking home is still sobering up. More than half of this beer left but yeh, I'm mature enough to leave it. Totally sober enough to stay out but it's not fun enough to compromise tomorrow over. Doubt will get any food on way home but will still try to walk back, slightly bad for tiredness but only slightly.

0355 At place had fries Wed night, woman who took my order speaks basic English, hope am getting a plain hamburger and fries for 3k. (I didn't speak English to her, she obviously decided to pick up on my foreignness.) I should prob just get cab home but meh. Tables in other bars still busy as left but a) I think 4am closing these places is legal requirement b) given want to be fresh tomorrow silly to stick on, also being just a smidge (no false anti-exaggeration) pissed even were it possible not ideal to try for another beer in a random bar.

0425 At flat. Walk home totally cool, and irrationally or not felt as safe and like walking home through City back home. May book a night in Calama before bed but let's see.

0436 OK, I have reserved a room (private, shared bathroom) for the two nights 6th and 7th in Calama for £16/night. So assuming I can get an overnight bus from Vallenar on the night of the fifth, I am semi-laughing. I can turn up at the mine office on both sixth (admittedly a bit strung out post bus, unless I can check in early) and seventh, and I can try to book a bus on to Peru when I arrive, so all hunky dory. This robs Calama of the 'it's fucking expensive' aspect which had shitted me up. If I can 't get on the mine tour now, no big deal. Calama is I think [not checked) a big bus hub so prob great place to try to book international bus, and if it isn't I can go on from there to Iquique or Arica and cross border from there.

0449 OK, so that's a nice conclusion to a day which started shit and improved. I really need to be sound tomorrow, in bed now so fingers crossed for sleep.