Bariloche, Thursday

1206 In queue at post office to send postcards, going up to some skilift thing up mountain nearby afterwards. Was half planning to anyway but chap I met last night (Colin) raved about it. Woke up about 9 and went for slash then back to bed. Didn't feel too bad all in, got up about 1030 or 11 IIRC and then faffed hugely in hostel having shower and surreptitiously washing some underwear in sink and dithering about bringing a bag out (I haven't but have my jacket, I can carry it and it may be worth having up there). Only one of the three bathrooms had any toilet paper. Also I left my phone charging while in shower and the fucking thing decided my charger wasn't compatible and disabled charging to protect the phone, so I got no boost. It has done this a little bit before when the charger has struggled to maintain power because of dodgy sockets and/or plug adapters but was far more stroppy today. I did manage to get a couple of percent into it (up to about 67%) more to prove it's not totally broken than because it's any use.

Queue is quite big and not moving that fast but will stick it out.

Will note down while I remember Colin recommended bar called Alamo in Buenos Aires.

1220 There seem to be two independent queues for more than two ticket windows. No doubt I am in the wrong one. Mine also moves way slower. This is probably the queue for some sort of document processing. No obvious signs of course. No plastic windows separating staff from customers, btw, they are just sat behind a counter.

1226 ARS20 for each card!

1353 Cunt of a bus driver.Trying to go to Cerro Campanero or a rely on getting someone to pay for me if i get off anxd wait for another bus back, i now have to stay on this one all the way into town, buy another ticket at the ticket office and then come bac out again. i am sure the driver did it deeliberately, what a fucking bastard.

Cerro Campanario is the name. This is different from. Cero Otto I assume which is the one with cabin in main street and which was the one I would have done if Colin hadn't told me about this, though I thought it was the same one when he was telling me about it.

1411 to be scrupulo9usly fair of course i didn't ring the bell. i do still believe the driver was being a deliberate arsehole about it by not stopping anyway. writing sans cfaps ass bashing out on phone but caN hard read screen in this light and just wanted to get it down however badly.

1543 At top. View is spectacular but come into cafe, bit pricey but I am hungry.

1918 In reception at hostel charging phone.

Knackered (all that standing on bus and at my height it's a bit of a stretch to hold onto the handrails). When got back into town bought a 1.5l bottle of diet soft drink. Guzzled it all, feel a bit loaded. The enormous sandwich I had at the cafe at CC left me feeling really full. May go out and buy fruit and some peanuts for bus when phone charged. Not sure about having dinner as a proper meal.

Oh, I think I got stung by a wasp twice in the cafe. It was crawling on my coat and I somehow (bit of a blur) touched it and I got this sharp prick kind of sensation round base of right thumb. I then somehow got the fucker on my T-shirt and it stung me through that as I brushed it off. On the other hand, it was not really painful after it had happened and there doesn't seem much residual pain. Did wonder if it was a yellow spider but I saw a wasp on the floor afterwards which would perhaps be a bit of a coincidence otherwise.

Anyway, views very good, lakes and mountains all the way round 360. Took Colin's advice and didn't look back from chairlift up so as not to spoil it. Bit disturbing how they made you lift the barrier on your chair yourself while still in air about 10m before getting off. Views did lack a slight initial 'wow' factor just because I was so hungry and still slightly hacked off from all the tedious bus travel. It was very cool though, and you could see Bariloche from one side.

Anyway, last night I was sat at the bar and this other chap was at there on his own. I studiously ignored him and read book on phone for first pint but on second figured I'd take a punt, addressed him in Spanish and it turned out he was English. We had a good old chat til closing time at about 4am, I am probably meeting him again there tonight, which may not be super wise given bus but otoh I felt OK today and being on the bus isn't too stressful (tho suspect will be no bog, and bit worried it will leave without waiting for my non-Mercosur customs process which is presumably slower than for locals, but presumably that doesn't happen).

Colin is 52 yo London taxi driver (lives in Essex), travels a lot as his work gives him lots of flexibility.

Am thinking would be good to get somewhere 'nice' (en suite, ideally a fridge) for say three nights after Puerto Montt. Be good to chill out a little. Incidentally there weren't any hostel dormitory type beds available in PM IIRC, all the options seemed private room with shared bathroom at worst. Don't think coping too badly with hostel but am a bit sick of the queues for the toilets and the continual locking and unlocking of lockers/bags etc. Actually *sleeping* in a dormitory isn't a big deal, it's the complete lack of privacy and 'trust' which really wears me down. Even as it is someone could in principle nick my camera out of trouser pocket as I sleep, I should prob lock it in locker but man it's such a fricking faff. Oh, and the fact you get people knocking on the door when you're in bathroom. Anyway.

2116 At El Chiringuito. Having trucha al limon with mashed potatoes and a sparkling mineral water. Bit stuffed but seems smart to eat, also this will be slightly healthy I guess. Popped out to a supermarket (La Anonima on same street as El Chiringuito) just before and bought bottle of water and some peanuts, so I have basic supplies for tomorrow. Daypack is lying on bed stuffed with lowish value shit, remnants of some other bottles of water included. Main thing is to have water for tonight/tomorrow morning, can buy water anywhere tomorrow.

Lowish on Argentinian cash, have extracted 300 from my zipped belt and stuffed 200 of that into hidden belt. In total I have about 500 on me, probably 600 taking smal bills into account. Should easily see me through tonight and tomorrow morning, and though I will virtually certainly be back in Argentina (BA for flight back even if Patagonian loop plan falls through) I am reluctant to risk being stuck with a lot of depreciating Argentinian pesos. Also if I withdrew a wodge now I'd have to carry it round and risk losing it, and if I withdrew less than 1000 the fee would be even more outrageous. This waffle is a bit out of date as I had an idea I had maybe 200-300 which would have been sailing a little closer to the wind.

Forgot about buying fruit at supermarket but bit pushed for time and I'd still have wanted to eat a cooked meal here and was bit bloated so it's OK. I am doing my best with the five a day and that's that.

2145 Food not bad, feel bit bloated and not touching the bread. Guess this will hopefully slow me down drinking :-) and as long as I don't feel sick tis OK. The bread calls to me and I have a feeling the whole basket will just be slung in the bin but going to resist, and after all it's just as wasted if I eat it unnecessarily. It's not really the waste, it's the fact I am a lardy git and I like bread.

2152 There is a hotel called Venezia just down road from my hostel. Every time I pass it I get the Hombres G song in my head. That would have been a good thing to write on my postcard to Z instead of the waffle I did write. Oh well.

2154 Bill 83, might be slightly more generous tonight as been here three nights in a row. Not mega generous but let's make it 93. Anyway, will finish water and head off to South Bar and see what happens.

0326 Bed. Hostel bit livelier than last night, poss due to their birthday party or cos is earlier or cos is Thursday. South Bar definitely busier than yday.

Bariloche, Wednesday

0904 In queue for bathroom. I need a piss but of course I have to wait while someone showers and then probably while the guy ahead of me in the queue showers. Crock of shit. Woke up wanting to go some indefinable time ago but not wanting to disturb people I decided I could hold it and got back to sleep. Fortunately I am not absolutely bursting even now, though this is a bugger because of course world+dog all want to have a shower at this time of morning.

Didn't sleep too badly at all all things considered. Feel a tiny bit hungover maybe but not sure. Did drink a bit too much last night but no major harm done, I am a little worried about what to do tonight but sod it, I can always lie on bed and read or something.

0908 OK, first person has emerged from bathroom, one more to go. I wasn't going to shower at this instant but I might; my towel is super-conveniently locked away inside my bag inside my locker and I don't want to go get it lest I lose my spot in queue (no one else is waiting visibly, but someone might turn up if I go). I suppose I can dry myself on my shirt or something. Maybe

0951 OK, that guy in queue ahead of me obviously just wanted to use bog so I got in sooner than expected. Just had slash then went and got towel to have shower, no queue. Took my time as charged phone (got about 18% into it, was at 37 IIRC) while doing it. Now waiting outside bathroom door again to have a shave; this is not mega necessary but it's a chance to get a bit of extra charge and frankly I'm up so early time may hang heavy on my hands. Perhaps I will end up drinking a lot of coffee today. Once I shave plan is to go out and find somewhere for breakfast (don't intend to try the hostel breakfast, I perhaps should but not today) and have read of guide book and then maybe just wander a bit if there is nothing overly pressing to do, perhaps go to bus terminal to book onward travel, let's see how it looks once have read guide book.

1109 At  Sant's Bier for empanadas and coffee. Walked down to lake, v nice but feeling at bit of a loose end. Need to read guidebook. Lack of power sources is getting to me, the idea of scavenging for power here and there for next couple of days is not attractive. Can't be helped I guess.

1149 Read guidebook. Feeling dazed, confused and ill prepared. Not going to waffle just yet (also, ffs, I fear burning through my juice)

1614 At bus terminal. I'm going to Puerto Montt in Chile on Friday. Been losing the plot a bit but basically I spent the morning seeking out and eventually finding an internet cafe to follow up on guide book reading. Basically there is a hard to book bus service from here to El Chalten taking two days with an overnight in Perito Moreno. That is like 12h a day on the bus. Guide book says you need to book a month in advance in El Chalten! There is limited availability for a couple of days time on internet, but it is tight. I went to the sort of office though maybe you have to phone here in Bariloche; am virtually certain was right place and got address off web but seemed heavily not open. I dithered massively and started to get really worked up. Strongly considered at this point going to PM and down to Puerto Natales then maybe back up to Bariloche; the bus seems more easily bookable northwards, I could book accommodation ahead and there is less chance of getting 'stranded' as El Chalten and El Calafate probably have a half decent daily link and El Calafate is probably easy to-from Puerto Natales. Went back to hostel for stealth charge and also a second time to pun sun cream on as burning badly. Anyway, when got here saw one company doing a bus to El Calafate but you have to book 2 days in advance (possible) and it is a 27h15m journey via Rio Gallegos. Not doing that. One company couldn't get me on a bus to PM before Mon 21, fortunately there is another company which happens to do Fri and Mon and I just happened to want to go on Fri. Could have got 8am bus but instead went for midday. ARS240. No idea what acommodation situation is in Puerto Montt, will walk back into town and go to net cafe again. Not using laptop in hostel, logistics of charging it a nightmare.

Feeling bit like am rushing too much again. Completely failed to do anything touristy here yet. Tried to call company (number from web) who do a tour of cavernas del viejo volcan but inevitably calling a foreign number (from skype at hostel) didn't work, I obviously don't know the magic secret sauce to turn the number from  the web into one actually dialable. Phone is being really slow and occasionally freezes as I am typing.

Anyway, let's go back.

2032 At hostel. Sat in reception writing postcards and then reading a book while phone charged, fortunately I snagged a handy socket. Felt slightly awkward but not too bad. So anyway battery now at 100%. Waiting outside basement bathroom to wash hands before going out.

Went to internet cafe and booked a private room with shared bathroom (all the cheapish stuff had shared bathrooms) for two nights for about £25 a night. Not fantastic but cheap as I could manage. Two nights may be cutting it a bit short (my usual problem) but there's probably not a huge amount to do, I can probably stay on another night if I want and if I do circle round via Puerto Natales-El Calafate-El Chalten-Bariloche I may well spend at least one more night in Puerto Montt before heading north. Guide book doesn't make it sound great but says some people like its working class charm or something. Who knows? With luck might get some live music as there Fri/Sat nights.

This wait for bathroom is annoying but I really am in no rush, it all kills time. I probably shouldn't drink tonight but I will, will try to start late even if it means walking round for the hell of it and not have too much. I have been relatively abstemious of late.

Gmail app on this phone likes to periodically jump up to the top of the email and let me continue typing in the 'to' field. No fucking idea why but surely sooner or later I will accidentally email a blog entry to some random person in my contacts.

2128 At El Chiringuito for bife de chorizo with french fries and sparkling water. Wandered, checked out couple of bars mentioned in guide book, couldn't find one, another had some SYTs lounging outside but fuck 'em, will see what turns up after dinner, as long as I can get a table don't care. Some git lounging with a mate asked me for money, naturally told him no. Happened to me this afternoon too. This is first place in Argentina anyone has done that. Guys a bit shabby but not exactly destitute looking.

Am sat outside, it is a smidge windy but it was like a bloody oven inside. I tried to find Los Tehuelches, a cheap place mentioned in guide book, but no obvious sign of it. Wind naturally picked up a bit, it's OK.

2218 Food not bad, got two steaks one on top of the other. ARS83, will try to make it 91 with tip. Got bread as well, guzzled lot of that.

2229 Sat at bar in South Bar. Two pints for 40 (til 2330), was wondering about getting a table but I am not averse to sitting at the bar tonight, and also don't want bar staff to 'forget' they owe me a pint. Wonder if it's a dick move sitting here as it blocks access, and I don't like it when people do it in London, but other people are sat at bar so WTF.

Blonde is not too bad, not sure if it is a lager or not but it's OK. They do a red and a black as well. Oh, they took a 50 note the cashier at the supermarket declined earlier.

0449 Bed. Details tomorrow.

Neuquén to Bariloche

1003 Hotel owner woman is preparing breakfast for me; hope it's edible since she appears to be doing it just for me. Didn't got to bed til about half hour or hour after last post, still, got up OK and prob felt no more shit than normal this morning.

2 croissants and coffee, that's OK. This is just bonus food to help keep me going til I can eat tonight in Bariloche. Will ask if they can call me a taxi to terminal after; there is loads of time but it is too far to lug my bag.

1132 At terminal. Taxi driver talked to me a bit, I didn't understand him a lot of the time which was awkward but guess it will come with practice. Tried to get cash from the sole machine at the terminal; Lloyds card with new PIN never tried before gave some nondescript error (probably something about an invalid operation, after going through the entire interaction), fuck knows, Metro Bank card 'worked' but the machine seemed to be upset at me asking for ARS1000. I am not absolutely desperate and there will probably be a machine at Bariloche terminal and I'm not paying the 40 fee for any less than 1000 if I can help it, it's bad enough as it is. There was a queue so I didn't experiment to see how much it would let me have (the message of course doesn't say "must be X or less and a multiple of 100" or anyting, that would be too helpful, and for only four quid a pop you can't expect top-notch cutomer service)

Taxi driver said to be careful in Bariloche; we didn't talk much about it and of course language difficulties but I think he means pickpocketing kind of stuff. Oh, it was ARS60 for that taxi, which is at least consistent but fuck it, I think that's pricey. Didn't tip either time, Fernando told me no need to and the drivers didn't seem obviously upset.

1146 Waffling boredly. I am red this morning but not too sore or anything, head skin hurts a little if touched, actually so does arm but a bit of a delayed action. Not really that bad. Will doubtless peel like mad in a day or two. Badly overdue for a haircut but not found anywhere yet and should probably leave it a day or two now.

1204 Terminal seems enormously oversized. There are at least 44 bays; I am not sure Retiro has that many. Last time I looked the monitor showed no departures in the future (ie not even five minutes into the future). We get an announcement periodically but I don't seem to catch the platform. Oh well, come 1225ish I will look at the screens and/or wander. Not overly concerned.

Oh, while I was at Retiro in BA did occur to me that if I am going home from there and am in vaguely reasonable place it may be possible to do the last leg to BA by train from eg NW Argentina. Not worth looking into until a few weeks beforehand at earlier, I think, certainly not going to let that overly influence my plans.

1219 Ah, the 44 (actually 45) numbers refer to ticket offices, not platforms. The terminal building is nevertheless v long and feels excessively large for the number of buses there seem to be.

1233 Stood watching monitors. Platform numbers do go at least as high as 43, though I don't know if they start at 1 and are numbered consecutively.

1239 Several buses showing and announced but not mine. Not worried yet but getting to point where I will be concerned about missing it if not announced soon. If it's late not a big deal but if I don't know that I can't distinguish that from somehow failing to notice information on boarding.

1313 Bus seems massively late. No announcements and not on any monitors. Run around in a 25% panic like a fool, asked various people and some offered advice unsolicited. Couldn't understand most of them due to time pressure induced lack of concentration. Why the fuck it can't be shown on monitors as late I do not know. I hope a) it is late and I haven't missed it b) it is not too late, I am not too tight for time but I do hope to be able to go out and dine when I get there, plus if (fat chance; not checked) terminal not too far from hostel it would be nice if it felt safe/light enough to walk instead of taking a taxi.

1335 Still no sign of the bus or any announcements whatsoever about it. I am a bit worried I missed it but I did do a hasty sweary tour of the platforms a bit before departure and didn't see anything remotely probably it, plus a couple of the people I have shown my ticket to definitely acted more like it was late than as if I'd missed it. Some fucking information would be nice.

1404 Hmm. A bus to Bariloche by another company has now appeared on the departure board showing time *1130*. While I have no idea where that bus started or where mine started, possibly there is a general delay and my 1255 bus will be here equally late, ie I still haven't missed it. I find the lack of announcements - and I am damn sure I'm not missing any, I understand enough to know if they pertain to my bus - appalling.

1426 On bus, turned up couple of mins ago. Origin is Buenos Aires. Moderately full upstairs and seems rather sleepy - not surprising if all these people got on in BA as I might guess - but at least for now I have a double seat to myself, though be surprised if that lasts all the way. Bought some (not much) chocolate at terminal about half hour ago (and ate it), also some Halls Colors (sic), but hope I get food. Not holding breath though.

2106 At hostel. No (count 'em) electrical sockets in dormitory. Not that they've all been bagged or my bunk doesn't have one, I can't see any. I am having an illicit 10 minute charge in bathroom before going out for dinner and beer. Will write more later but might as well do this while waiting. Oh, I get a top bunk, superb. They ought to let you pay a bit more to choose a lower one.

Got taxi from terminal, which cost 44. Sorely tempted to walk but given we were in late I was  a bit edgy. Been out to get cash and paid. Reception slightly abrupt (they switched to English when I didn't understand 'dime?' after they faffed with the loud music and then didn't actually turn it down). Town (not just/especially hostel) is apparently overrun with SYTs, feeling bit overwhelmed. Does look v attractive by lake but will go check it out properly tomorrow. Plan is food, couple of beers and try to be in bed by about midnight. Sign for parascending (40secs freefall!!! xtr3me!) in reception, not doing that, will look into paragliding in guide book or in town tomorrow. Fairly sure guidebook did say paragliding in the mountains. (Though IIRC old Trailfinders policy covered parascending automatically and not paragliding, so maybe despite this scary sounding stuff it is much safer and I should consider it. Don't fancy idea of shitting myself in terror, but we'll see what pans out.)

Wifi works anyway, Skyped parents briefly from reception/common area but was sadly abrupt with them. Skype phone app apparently automatically and irrevocably switches to speakerphone mode if the other party turns video on, presmably on grounds you can't see it while holding phone to ear, but what a super way to be embarassed in public by something you don't control.

2129 Losing plot a bit. Want beer and food. OKish bar near hostel but tiny and only seats at the bar. For all the fact I'm feeling intimidated and a sad loser by all this shit, I really really don't want to sit at the bar and feel awkward and/or scrape aquaintance with someone. I want some food and I want to sit quietly and have a couple of beers to take the edge off :-) before I go to bed.

Not sure I am hungry but I am starting to feel a bit irrational and although I had some peanuts on bus etc probably a good idea to eat properly before beer.

I hope things will look better tomorrow, more than likely they will after food. I think I'm just being swirled around in the current a little bit and the dormitory thing means I haven't been able to consider myself 'settled' for a few minutes as I normally would once I get to hotel. Bit worried about phone battery but I have the spare - I brought it out with me - and at 51% and I may 'meditate' rather than read or write over food/drink plus I can prob loiter in reception for an hour or two at some discreet time tomorrow while I charge it.

Having churrasco with french fries and water with gas.

I really honestly am not particularly craving any kind of company, the hostel thing just makes me feel so fucking alone, it's massively irrational and I have done it before and it is fine and I'm just in a fucked up kind of mood right now and also I guess the more you do anything the easier it gets. I am there because it's a damn sight cheaper than a hotel; if I only stay tonight and waste the money paid for the following two nights I would still only be slightly worse off than if I'd just stayed in a hotel all three nights anyway.

2153 Food not bad, virtually inhaled the steak. 76 and adding 8 for tip. Probably be back here... Beer. Place is El Chiringuito.

2158 At delightfully deserted bar not far from hostel, 40 for a litre of Heineken which isn't too bar.

2205 Crash Test Dummies' "Afternoons and Coffeespoons" playing, makes me smile somehow. I really am the only person here, except for the two bar staff.

2215 Was some quite attractive if slightly desolate lake scenery from bus. Snapped several pictures. Got a slight Puerto Natales vibe from it. Did find myself wondering if I would have done better just to fly BA-Bariloche but even if that would have been better, hindsight is 20-20. It was slightly cool to see Viedma and Neuquen anyway, but for all I know they could in some way have been great, then I'd have missed out on that by flying direct to Bariloche. Besides, I do kind of like my 'guideline' to avoid flying when I can go overland, it makes the geography and the distance a bit more real somehow. Even the views from the bus today, while not amazing, were something I'd miss out on flying. Yes, I would have saved time but that probably isn't the right way to look at it.

2220 Acoustic version of The Cure's Boys Don't Cry (by The Cure, not a cover)

2234 Oh, the hostel did forget to allow the 10% hostelworld prepayment and also forgot to give me 50 of my change when I paid, but apart from the fact we were doing this in English I was super alert to getting it right. I don't think there was any tricky intent there, but who knows?

Oh, I was at Hostal Liberty in Neuquen (a small hotel, despite the name - had a private ensuite single bedded room). And if I forget to say was Hotel Austral in Viedma.

Some people are coming into the bar, I oddly resent them. This is my sullen (not feeling that sullen now, but still) drinking den, keep out!

2243 They had no cash and they don't take cards, they have gone to get cash.

The English speaking woman at the hostel (maybe there's more than one, but when I failed to understand 'dime' I was punted over to this other woman) intermittently fails to understand me. Maybe it's my non-US English - "cash machine" drew a blank - or my accent or maybe because I am a bit edgy I am speaking quickly or badly or something - "when do I have to be back by?" as I left threw her too. Not doing it on purpose. Shouldn't feel smug about that but maybe it kind of turns the tables (albeit on a different person) on the situation where I don't immediately understand their Spanish and they switch me over to English. (I was fairly sure is 24h reception and it is but wanted to ask.)

2252 I was hanging around at reception desk before came out trying to find someone to ask about 24h reception, seemed to be a bit ignored and usual problem with hostel where hard to be sure who is staff and who isn't, I don't even like to take 'popping behind the desk' as evidence. Also feeling I've been labelled as English speaking I am irrationally inhibited from speaking Spanish.

I did sort of drowse on bus but not all the time. Wasn't a bad journey but I felt overwhelmed by a lot of uncertainty (for purely practical reasons not going into here Ziggy being ill has implications, nothing to do with it being upsetting) and the delay in arrival etc and worries about onward plans made me a bit over concerned. I have some idea it might be desirable to try for a sort of tour to take me south to El Chalten or on further to Calafate (where I shall head over to Chile) via RN40 but although I will check guide book (prob not tonight, tomorrow) I think I may simply try to get to El Chalten for a few days once I leave here. I would need to check I can get from El Chalten to Calafate before doing that, should be OK. Not a problem for tonight. If I need to stay here an extra night or two for whatever reason no problem, at least there is lots of accommodation here.

2301 Oh, this place is "NYC's". It is not exactly spit and sawdust but it's not particularly fancy; mainly a little minimalistically stylish if anything. Tis OK. Live music or something would be nice another night but in a way I'd prefer that somewhere a bit less touristy. Still, no reason not to enjoy it here if I find somewhere it can be had.

2323 Few other people here now BTW. Literally a few. Cure's acoustic version of can't remember name but "Go on, just walk away" playing.

2326 Acoustic version of "Learn To Fly" playing (Foo Fighters IIRC, not Pink Floyd!). Somehow reminds me of Eat & Drink and raises a smile. Not feeling particularly sullen any more, though not exactly flying on wings of joy or even alcohol.

2329 As if it matters, the "no cash" party has not returned yet.

2340 It's an acoustic Cure fest! Two more tracks. I have a greatest hits album with two CDs, one original and one acoutic, I wonder if this is what they are playing. Think have heard quite a bit of Cure here, wonder if they are popular in Argentina. Probably not.

2355 On second litre btw. Not really drunk in a good or bad way but though a third is slightly tempting under circumstances no. If nothing else I will probably be out every night while here since I can't quietly bum around in room so best not go insane on the daily alcohol consumption.

0029 Obviously I am an alcoholic/a twat/a fallible human being/someone who enjoys a drink now and then and has a fertile mind and a phone loaded with books who can enjoy himself alone (I am flicking betwen meditation, a Python tutorial and J K Jerome.). Not having a third litre but got a pint of some local artesanal stuff for ARS25. I do wonder why they serve pints, it must be some historical quirk. Tis OK. The situation I mean. The beer is OK too, that is slightly faint praise. It isn't bitter but it isn't lager, it has some body. Was super careful to ask if I had time for another, though no signs of closing (honestly, of all the cultural scars I bear, the deepest is the WW1 closing time) and guy was sweet. I won't stay after this, I am not exactly embarassed but given I have to ring for entrance to hostel then collect daypack off bed to clean teeth and swig water then get undressed in there and climb up into bed I don't want to be off my face. But I am an experienced toper and it will be OK. This is effectively five pints, albeit probably at 5%, on top of food and hardly an insane pissup.

0050 Quite a few people here now, probably locals. More evidence for the late culture I have intuited elsewhere eg in Viedma. Try as I might to appreciate this, and FFS it's not as if I've never left the UK before, this always freaks me out and confuses me. Not so much that people are out late (and maybe drink slowly) as that they *start* so late.

0108 OK, nearly finished pint. Is slightly tempting to stay out just cos atmosphere is nice but I'm slightly pissed, maybe tomorrow night if I can somehow stay at hostel til then, be good to come out about 11. But I need to head back now, battery 27%, next entry probably be feeble from bed in hostel worried about disturbing people. Have no fucking idea if dormitory be full of people sleeping or if I will be first back.

0119 English speaking woman and some other woman ouside smoking as returned to hostel. Got daypack from bed, in queue for bathroom with some half dressed chap. Tis OK but I am thinking, as I walked brief route back obvioujsly still early at night and this is a first. But this is orthogonal to fact I am in hostel. I hoped to find BA lively but it wasn't when & where I was. (Woman Daniella and friend Noella, I think/hope, she apologised for not remembering my name, as if I care.) Here prob because is v touristy is partyish even Tue night, but that is semi independent of being in hostel. Looked like couple of bodies in beds in dorm as picked up daypack. Feeling quite mellow tbh. Tomorrow night would be good to not go out til 11ish and maybe take a chance speaking to random group of people in a bar, maybe NYC.Anyway, tomorrow night's question is how to loiter in hostel til 11pm, for now quick destroyer tactics phone charge in bog and clean teeth and bed. Irrational but in a good way I feel sort of less like a sad outsider simply because I am returning here at 0125. Fuck it all, rational or otherwise.

0132 Stood in bathroom door stil charging phone. Battery 34% but every little helps. Would rather not touch spare and yet no matter how tomorrow as a whole pans out will doubtless be up late and even ignoring any social issues would prefer not to spend even ten minutes loitering in hostel getting a charge.

0137 In bed. Notwithstanding bonhomie of prev entries feel bit crap. Anyway, let's try to sleep.

Neuquén, Monday

1356 At terminal. Massive walk over, could possibly have got a bus but it's all exercise and I see the town. Lots of buses to Bariloche, just paid ARS262 for semi cama at 1255 tomorrow, takes about 5h (ticket in pocket, not getting it out). I figure if checkout is 10ish that maybe gives me time to walk over (tho it's so far may take taxi) and will get me into Bariloche with some prospect of walking to hotel from terminal and time (modulo Skyping with parents) to have a wander and get food after arriving.

I was distracted (think I was looking at a building and wondered if it was a Falklands memorial) walking through central park earlier and walked right through a sprinkler, as did some old woman walking just in front of me. Dried off pretty quickly though, v warm here.

Anyway, let's head back. Quick look at guide book first just in case want to try for any museums but perhaps best get back to hotel (at least an hour's walk) and see if parents are home and so on. Also while moderate availability of hotels and especially dormitory beds in Bariloche probably smart to book ASAP which also indicates direct return to hotel. I may stop for a cooked meal en route if somewhere is open though. Not looking at guide book, don't want to tempt myself with anything interesting which I may not get to see. There's always next time.

1526 At some restaurant in centre of town, getting bife de chorizo with french fries and mineral water. Got two bananas and an apple on walk back from terminal then a 500ml bottle of diet coke elsewhere. Heading back to hotel but figured food a good idea.

Probably getting serious sunburn on head, had some couple of days ago but seem to be having trouble keeping in shade. Am figuring to a certain extent best to let it get a bit burned then it will probably be less sensitive for rest of holiday.

1615 Food OK if not outstanding. Bill 95, made it 105 with tip. Let's go back to hotel via supermarket mentioned last night if possible. Place is called Moscato.

0139 FFS. Surfing up a storm, taking advantage of privacy while I have it. Severely red all over head, arms and hands. Mostly packed, will go to bed soon, honest. Had Spanish lesson on similar privacy grounds.

Neuquén, Sunday

Monday 0026 Surfed a bit, did some laundry, had hot shower. Need to move towards bed. Incidentally both here and in either BA or Viedman, hotel staff looking for the photo page in the passport seem to get 'tricked' into finding the Indian visa page and this usually results in them asking me my nationality a bit later on...

Have uploaded some more photos, I kind of have too many of BA but WTF, who cares? Not done many of Viedma yet, just the ones I have off the camera. Will probably do rest tomorrow if all goes OK.

0050 OK, bed. Check out the accent in the post title. Not bothering generally, but wanted to show I know it's there. I hope I'm pronouncing the name of the place right.

Viedma-Neuquen

1049 Felt shit this morning of course but got up, Skyped parents and checked out at 10. Had breakfast at hotel, currently lurking there but about to trek over to bus terminal. Have a feeling I may not have the aisle seat I asked for as my seat no is 35 but can't be helped and even semi-cama should be better than a plane.

Will hopefully waffle later to fill in details yday. Right now not happy I am heading to a hotel which I am paying through the nose for (I expect it to work out at about 45 quid a night) and which doesn't offer wifi except at USD2/hour in public areas.

1126 At bus terminal. Bit sweaty but walk not too bad and it's fairly cool in here.

1132 OK, let's start to waffle about yday. Not going to harp on Ziggy being ill, except that apart from probably altering my mood in ways I am not quite aware of, that makes me less inclined than ever to stay in a dormitory and makes wifi availability for Skype more important than usual. Normally it would be OK if not ideal to not have wifi for a few days, especially if there's a chance of access in a cafe or something.

So I went over to the bus terninal the first time, which is a fair old trek, and all the ticket offices were shut. I checked the opening times on lots (bus terminal not huge but might be 5-10 scattered around) and anyway they didn't open til 5. My preferred company based on guidebook had a timetable on their office showing daily bus to Bariloche taking 14h overnight.

By the time I walked back into town there was only an hour or two before it was time to walk back to the terminal. I wanted some food but nowhere was open except Cafe del Sauce as blogged yday. I didn't really have time to try going across the river to Patagones of course.

Anyway, when I got back to terminal, the preferred company didn't have a seat (I asked, and though I was dazed and confused, I am pretty sure there were departures every day, also it said that in writing on the timetable) until Tuesday, ie two days after I wanted. Apart from not wanting to waste time, it is fucking expensive here and there were no obvious hostels I could try walking into off street. I had checked availability of my hotel here (which was Hotel Austral) earlier that day and they had a room Sunday night at 42 quid IIRC.

Anyway, I tried other windows. One other company had a bus taking 16 hours but next bus or free seat was Monday. Wandering the terminal desperately I looked at maps and other available destinations. Of course I didn't have most chapters of my guide book on phone. (The ones I just bought I got one file per book, which is better.)

There seemed to be a lot of buses to Bahia Blanca but that was the wrong direction. Also I did look back at hotel later out of curiosity and I couldn't find any cheap hotels there either.

So I saw a company with a bus to Neuquen. I was sufficiently flustered by this point to struggle more than usual with language and I bought semi cama ticket for ARS290 figuring it was at least taking me towards Bariloche. This is the bus I am waiting for now.

1150 Keep taking break as frustrating to write, poss not used to phone kbd yet.

1213 On bus. I am in an aisle seat. No one next to me yet and top (semicama) deck mostly empty but we aren't due to leave til 1220 so not counting my chickens (plus we stop a number of places en route to final destination Neuquen).

1219 Should say drivers in Viedma quite often seemed to stop to wave me across road. Also, saw quite a few (ie not that many, but a noticeable quantity of) Citroen 2CVs and lost dog posters.

1436 Still got double seat. Let's write paragraph or two more re yday.

So went back to hotel to book Neuquen hotel. Fuckety fuck. booking.com has 200+ properties but says 90% booked. expedia has about four. hostelworld lists Neuquen but shows 0 properties, I assume it has one or two only and hence lists name but all full. Tried random web searches, including some wanky Argentinian aggregator which said some place had rooms at USD42 but it didn't when you tried to book. Tried phoning couple of places from guide book (got up to date phone nos on web) via Skype, didn't even get hrough. At this point I checked Bahia Blanca hotels to see if worth just throwing Neuquen tkt away and going there, but as said earlier just as pricey there if not more.

1449 Was losing plot a bit at this point. Wanted food too. Was a single hostel with dormitory bed at about ten or eighteen quid a night but for reasons noted wasn't up for that. In hindsight if it had proper wifi might still be better than the hotel I did get. Anyway finally had to suck it down and book this place for two nights via not-going-to-say.com; price is quoted in dollars and I expect I am going to get shafted on the exchange rate, which rankles when ngts.com quote prices in pounds using an exchange rate they *know* is not realistic. But they were best of a bad lot, so had no choice. [Filled in later: this was OK actually, see below. Which makes me wonder what happened with the BA hotel, and also how to interpret prices in future.]

Cos I am only there for two nights I am going to be rushed there and also worried when I go to bus terminal tomorrow morning to book to Bariloche might have problems. Though it is close enough I hope are lots of buses. Cos it is so expensive and not particularly tourist-attractive (so I'm paying a lot for a little) I am only staying two nights. This continues the 'hurrying around and frankly doing little except sorting out onward travel' feeling I already had a bit in Viedma.

1513 I had planned to see Patagones either yday after buying ticket or today before getting bus at 7. Obviously neither panned out. Hotel was right next to guide book ferry pier but I went on there about 6pm yday thinking I might spend an hour or two over there and saw no sign of ferry despite guide book saying every few mins til 1030pm. Then went to try to find food. Serious shortage of restaurants.

Wandered futilely. Looked at guide book on phone. Only listed a few places and most sounded shit. Tried best of bunch, La Octava or something. Open. Took ten minutes to get menu *after waiter asked me what I wanted*, not ten minutes from sitting down. Main dishes were all 'avec', pizzas were priceyish. I just walked. Found La Sozzia's pizza place which was still a touch pricey but cheapish for beer and I was getting seriously desperate (nearly went back to Bucanero), had a large ham, cheese and pepper pizza and a litre of Quilmes which IIRC was ARS108+12 tip. Didn't quite finish pizza but had 7/8s. Bit bloated and forced last of beer down. Was getting late and apart from minor dog worries after dark (I had one fucker get a bit stroppy in broad daylight with loads of people round by river earlier, I possibly showed too much fear but the cunt did follow me a bit, anyway, it was fine last night) and wanted to try to surf a bit and also had to pack.

1920 Dozed a bit earlier. While I remember guide book says the world's longest kayak race (500km) takes place between Viedma and Neuquen along the Rio Negro, ie the journey I am currently making overland.

2148 At hotel. OK, credit where it's due, while I have nothing in writing if I remember what the girl on desk said and what I handed over and the change they only charged me ARS556 for the two nights, which suggests a 'fair' dollar rate (I had calculated it would be nearly 1000). On the other hand, the taxi from the bus terminal cost (on the meter; maybe he put me on some scam rate or it's night prices) ARS62. I asked at desk and there is no restaurant round here open now (possibly not at all); she said I'd have to take a taxi into centre but I said I couldn't afford it. I think she offered to phone for delivery food but I was slightly (only slightly) brusque about that. There is a little shop just down the road, which I went to. A big packet of crisps was ARS33; no, thank you. I got a packet of biscuits and a bottle of H2Oh Citrus and a bottle of water for ARS45. I think this is phenomenally expensive but am not sure. Maybe this is late night Sunday only place open getting away with it. Or maybe Neuquen exists only to suck money out of the pockets of tourists. I should chill a bit, the hotel using a sane rate of exchange makes it pricey for what it is but not too insane, I have kind of lowballed myself by getting super worked up about the hotel, that rage has spread and exists even now the hotel price has been OK. I do stll think the taxi and the food are expensive, but it could be worse. If breakfast is included I may try to get up for it. Then I will walk the 6km or so (says 3.5km on web when booking; no fucking chance, GPS says something like 5km from bus terminal and that's in a straight line) to the bus terminal and enquire about Bariloche buses.

It is warm here, not intolerably so (good job, as airconditioner in room is inacessible and I suspect but don't know only usable on payment of extra fee to get remote) but bit of a contrast from the bus (which was fine but not fiercely a/c; I didn't wear my jacket).

Glad I didn't pay extra for cama, the bus was mostly empty and I had a double seat all the way and for a daytime journey that was perfectly adequate. I am getting really worked up about the cost lately, the (loose) budget feels like it's being blown madly. But this perhaps ties in with my not quite finished rant yday (tho all factual bits re yday written) and might write it later.

2205 There is a secured wifi network called Hotel. I expected a wanky system like in the Chandigarh hotel. I might go ask about wifi as despite the 2USD/h claim on website I don't see how that could be enforced with a normal network, unless you need a password just to log on to get to the wanky system.

No one on desk, I could go ring the doorbell but will wait. No sockets in room btw unless you count the one for tv way up on wall, there is one in bathroom fortunately.

2214 Middle aged woman owner (girl is her daughter) came to desk, v helpful actually. Got wifi password, it's free, breakfast is included and is till 10 or half past ish. She said there is a supermarket 8 blocks down road open 24h; I wouldn't have liked to try that tonight but worth remembering for tomorrow. Feel a bit churlish now things have worked out a bit better than I expected, meh. Will send this now anyway.

I am in room 101...

Viedma, Saturday

1536 At Cafe del Sauce by river. Going to have an expensive 650ml bottle Quilmes at ARS38+tip. Everywhere is shut, maybe this is a sleepy town or maybe it's siesta. Left hotel about 2pm, walked 30 mins to bus terminal, ticket offices all shut til 5pm. Walked back into town, food would be nice but nowhere open. Fortunately had four bits of fruit in hotel room bought yday but that hasn't filled me. After this beer will go back to hotel to pick up passport jic (prob not necessary but hotel is near and sign at some cargo ticket office (I think) said you had to have identification document, anyway better safe than sorry) and trek back to bus terminal then hopefully can get food. Might pick up packet of mints while in hotel room, though I did pass a newsagent type shop open so could have bought some chocolate or something if wanted to.

Hotels in Bariloche are 70% full on booking.com and cheap private rooms are nearly gone, but can't book that til get bus ticket. If push comes to shove should be no problem getting dormitory bed. Might have done that anyway but with Ziggy situation would prefer some privacy to Skype etc, anyway, have to see how it goes.

In hindsight might have been smart to check ticket office hours when arrived at bus terminal yday but that's borderline, it's just one of those things.

Lots of people swimming in river, there are some sandbanks visible with people on, also picknickers on grass banks.

Streets not quite deserted but damn near on way to terminal, even in more 'central' bits. Maybe siesta, fuck knows. Warm but not unpleasantly so.

Food here not good, expensive and mostly sandwiches which would probably be riddle with mayonnaise. Tempted to order a portion of chips but at ARS33 fuck it. I am not starving, I have snacking options and within reason dinner will be all the more satisfying for being hungry, though I suspect that is going to go beyond the point of reason, especially if I feel I need to go back to hotel to book accommodation in Bariloche after returning from bus terminal and before eating.

1605 Prince Royce 'Corazon sin cara' playing. Raises a big smile, reminds me of Santiago.

0132 It's all gone a bit shit. I exaggerate a bit but not super happy. Anyway, been too hungry/busy/lazy/whatever to write about it tonight. I am on the bus tomorrow from midday to 9pm ish so will try then. Bullet points to remind me:
- no bus availability to Bariloche (Tuesday one company, Monday another)
- Neuquen instead
- expensive/crappy hotels in Neuquen with no proper wifi (not really any hostels, was one, but not chancing dormitory with Ziggy situation)
- because it's expensive just two nights, things feel like they're continually a panicked rush, not helped by failure to get bus wanted due to this
- not seen Patagones over river, though not end of world and also saw no obvious sign of the ferry mentioned in guide book despite going onto pier outside hotel to look
- struggled to find somewhere to eat