Manizales, Sunday

Sun 17th 1710 On roof terrace of hostel with 473ml can pilsen (got 3, 3300 each chilled at supermarket - honestly 4k for a 273ml can at hostel is a pisstake, or invites abusing honour system).

Quietly successful day of touristing, although slightly dull and if I'd be all out for excitement I might have felt short changed.

Slept better but not perfectly. Got up 830ish, breakfast (one woman, said "hola" , she replied) a pretty nice pair of fried eggs with an arepa and a small slice of cheese, and some poss-but-prob-not orange juice and milk for the free coffee.

Checked (as had done in bed) price on booking.com was same and asked woman at recep if I should book via bc or if they could match the price (I didn't try to angle for sharing the saving, rightly or wrongly) and she promptly said to do it direct and I paid 50.4k on credit card for another night.

I was very slow to get out of the hostel but as it turned out it didn't really matter.

Plan was to go to Ecoparque Los Yarumos. I got on the cable car and accidentally did a tour of both lines 1 and 2 and realised (and checked with a MoS) that line 3 (as shown on OM) is actually still under construction. So I returned to Fundadores and had essentially had a joyride on a single ticket - did wonder if gates would refuse to let me out but it was fine.

I then got bus on Av Santander (not quite the every 30s mentioned in gb, but still lots, and it is Sun) over to Cable. Wandered round, despite what gb says and afaict the cable car from there to park is closed (and - spoiler - I saw no sign of cable car up at the park) and I found both the "old" station (where I guess that cable car to park used to go from) and the new (linea 3) station under construction.

I wasn't super hopeful - and I also suspected park would not be busy given this lack of handy transport - but it's all exercise and seeing the city so I set off vaguely meandering towards the park on foot.

1900 Up on terrace, my new roommate (who I had just briefly hola-ed) came up and we had quite a long chat (Swiss guy),  and I also just had a chat with a prob American guy who was telling me all about Bhutan.

Based on speaking to both of these there is a 4hish round trip hike you can do in Salento and there are loads of tour companies there too. So I think I will go there next, if I leave early I can prob talk to some tour companies re multi-day treks the day I arrive and if not there is at least some decent solo single day hiking (fingers crossed in kind of busy-ish park env where dogs not a big concern). I am half tempted to go there tomorrow but I probably won't, tho we'll see.

Anyway, to return to today, I did more luck than judgement find Los Ywhatsit. First impressions were not great but I think I'd kind of sum it up as low key run down vaguely charming family-ish. All the trails seem locked off. There is some kind of canopy tour but it was locked off and I have no idea if it's free or paid but there was no obvious way to pay or anyone doing it. There is a big triangular pyramid which at first (not so sure) I thought might house a butterfly exhibit but when I went to go in a nice enough woman told me in English that I needed to go back to the building where there's a fire engine (which I had seen) and claim a (free?) ticket from the woman there then bring it back and I could come in, and I was already not that fussed and I decided I wasn't going to take part in this stupid charade. (If it's free, why can't I just *come in*?)

There is quite a nice bonsai (but bigger than the houseplant size I associate with bonsai, this sort of 10% scale instead) garden, and there are some children's play things like climbing frames and there were a handful of families around and it was as I say sort of low key charming but if I had had big expectations it would [roomate - Marco? - and another German speaking guy I haven't met who were speaking German after I got chatting with Carlos just invited me to join them for dinner but I said truthfully I'd already eaten] have been disappointing especially given the relative faff of walking there or if I'd gone to the expense of getting a cab. The park is probably huge but as I say the two trails I saw were both shut off and I really don't think there was any more than I saw.

So I walked back to Av Santander and got the bus back no fuss and had a nice cone-in-a-plastic-tub ice cream at heladeria la niña for 7.5k (expensive but better than top of La Piedra) and then - having had a mild desire for chicken and chips all day, which I didn't quite meet - had a half roast chicken (which came with a couple of potatoes and a couple of small arepas and was eaten wearing gloves, like than place in San Gil) and a coke zero and Pollos Asados Mario, then came back to hostel and did a soap wash of uw (three sets) in bucket in shower - noticing at this point the other lower bed in dorm was occupied - and showered myself and had a shave. And then I popped out to supermarket for the three beers and came back here and started writing this and then roommate turned up and we got chatting (mostly his initiative, I think, but at least I was available).

So I think that's that.

I am probably not going to rush off to salento tomorrow, but prob the day after unless (and am not optimistic) tour agencies come through. I am also severely underinclined to trog over to a thermal bath on a bus tomorrow - I will try to look at guidebook and/or push myself, but I'm not gagging, it's not swimming, and if I can find *something* else to do here tomorrow I may let myself off. We'll see.

I may go back to dorm and tinker around there a bit while roommate off at dinner. Had two of my Pilsen cans tonight, might also come back up here with my AA and some fruit tea or black coffee or something.

2200 Been chatting with Marco (roommate) and another Swiss guy called (maybe) Antonio (in another dorm). They have both gone off to bed and I am heading down soon.

Torn about leaving tomorrow but prob won't. May politely message agencies asking if anything on. M&A invited me to join them on an tour to a volcano the day after tomorrow and maybe I should have said yes but I truthfully said that if I wasn't counting the days I'd prob say yes but that as it is I really need to get onto Salento ASAP if my own tour doesn't come up tomorrow.

Manizales, Saturday

Fri 15th 2058 Incidentally the couple who took my photo by chiva during the planned break were on my minibus to Manizales. I didn't speak to them and they didn't speak to me, he also seemed to be falling asleep at points so it obviously wasn't just me. (I don't think I did sleep, partly as I had picked the single seat by the door for extra legroom without realising I'd need to keep moving my legs when people got picked up/dropped off en route. But TBF I half didn't *want* to sleep as even seeing stuff out of the window *is* still seeing stuff.)

Anyway, bed.

Sat 16th 1745 Not a bad day's touristing.

Alone on roof terrace with a 4k beer purchased from hostel's honesty system. I had thought this was pretty good but it turns out this is 4k for a 269ml (tho it says 269cm^3 which feels wrong) which is tiny and faintly insulting - I haven't seen a can this small before. Anyway. (OK, I checked with frink and indeed ml and cm^3 are the same. This still feels wrong, showing I guess what a poor intuition I have for volumetric measures.)

1753 Nearly finished beer.

Didn't sleep very well. Vague not nightmarish but disturbing ("I am about to leave on a major trip abroad and I haven't told work" being the vague vibe insofar as I can remember) semi-waking dreams. Anyway, got up about 830, a few people round breakfast table, said "hola" , cleaned teeth, rejoined them and staff brought me glass of prob papaya juice (there was also milk to go in the free coffee) and an omlette and some sliced banana and cubed watermelon. Not bad at all. Very litte chat. Everyone seemed to be Spanish speaking but mostly silent, with a certain couply vibe. Two German girls (not sure if same ones from yday; probably) turned up and were oddly giggly but didn't speak much even in German.

Went out to Ecosistema round corner; OM had outdated address, so I went to GM address next and tho it just seemed to be a hotel I went in and asked and they did seem to know ES and I ended up on a WA phone call with the hotel desk woman's phone to ES (which of course I could have done from my own hostel but all part of the experience I guess). Long story short they do a hike (3 days or 3 nights?) from here to Salento and 70yos have done it and it sounds fine, even if it's COP1m (£200ish), *but* a group left at 5am this morning and they have no other group. I think I am on a kind of candidate list. They also said they'd ask Kwhatsit who I had been planning on visiting (via cable car) so I decided not to; I did however message Kwhatsit on my own account an hour later while having arepa con carne (4k) and a tinto (1.5k) in a place near Fundadores opposite a mural of maybe-George Lucas and I think (and hopefully ES got this message across to them anyway) they have put me on a waiting list too. They do various tours but within reason as long as it isn't too "ffs I clearly can't handle that" beggars can't be choosers and anything will do.

I will keep extending here a day at a time up to at least 4 nights I think, I would prob have done 4 anyway but just have an eye on suddenly being away for a trek so not wanting to pay for unused accom.

Frankly I am not that optimistic but who knows and I cannot do any more than try, as I have done. Rationally or not I am rather liking Manizales, it is hilly but the climate feels interestingly variable between too damn hot and cool so it's comfortableish, it feels like a real Colombian city, it has real shops and lots of cheap bars and restaurants, it is big but not so big it feels overwhelming, people seem to speak Spanish even with me, it doesn't (fool's paradise?) feel dangerous, the cable cars are cool and while tiring the hills add to the slightly gritty charm. I could easily imagine myself studying Spanish here for a month - obviously not now, and I have no idea if there are Spanish schools here.

Finger break. I am also gonna go down and get a bottle of H2Oh toroncello (toronja+limon flavour) I got earlier and semi-sneak (prob no need; I think own alcohol is allowed, eg wine bottles in kitchen) a bottle of Aguardiente Antioqueña (henceforth AA) "green" I bought at supermarket earlier.

1808 So I wandered down towards Fundadores as mentioned (tho still haven't noticed the massive memorial iirc) and back up another street and along the "cliff" (nice views) to Torre del Chipre which looked closed (the "cerrado" sign on the ticket booth threw me) but wasn't and paid 35k to go up and do the sky walk (with a nice chap called Miguelito Angelo; I had a chat with him in Spanish on the narrow unfenced walkway nearly 40m above the street, tho of course we were strapped to a safety harness). The sky walk was slightly scary but not too bad (I felt most nervous when getting my phone out as I knew *I* couldn't fall but it clearly could, but there were 40m wax palms - he said they can grow to 100m - next to us and I thought I ought to get a photo of me on a level with their tops) and kind of fun. TBH 15k just to go up feels a rip off (gb says 15k to do sky walk), 35k for the sky walk feels a smidge expensive (esp when gb has set expectation of 15k) but not too bad.

Finger break.

1815 Sudden thought, quick poke on web for lang exch here but can't find one. Not tried meetup as have K1 with me and login is on O6, suspect there isn't one, may check later and if I miss one tonight that's life.

Toronchelo OK (tried straight) but not amazing, sadly. AA doesn't go badly with it but also not wow. May have some AA in black coffee and/or that semi agua panela type free "tea" later, perhaps making an improvised carajillo/canela-ish drink.

GP storage filled up last night. I may actually take their promo offer of 100GB for 39p/month for three months up - I don't like the idea of giving them money, but it's negligible, and I already decided my holiday photos are not a privacy concern and I do value having them backed up, so I could do this for one month and download them all when I get home and cancel. (There is also some value in GP doing auto panoramas and its own version of HDR from my HDR components etc, so by buying extra space I can continue to upload everything and get these auto versions for the entire trip.)

Anyway, having talked to MA and also looked at map on phone I trogged over to Ecoparque Los Alcanzares Arenillo (sp? have photo) - which is a bugger to get to given the way the roads all double back on each other. Oh, on the way I spotted a small Juan Valdez at the water park and J having recommended their granizado the other day I went and had one (12k, but I'm on holiday) and it was very nice. Water park small but quietly cool.

Ecoparque was kind of fun but hard work - lots of downhill then uphill, the tower was sadly closed, path signage rather poor overall and I did get lost (near, I think, the "bamboo cave", which was a load of bamboo making a rather dark shady area which I did go into and which was kind of cool) and felt slightly panicky as I knew I'd come in on a clearish track but couldn't find it again - trails on OM only very loosely related to reality - but while I didn't see any birds and had no idea what I was looking at plant-wise it was all exercise and nature and while quite tiring and sweaty wasn't a bad afternoon.

Oh, I tried to get a homemade cone type ice cream at heladeria ecoparque before going in, but despite extensive Spanish discussion with the woman there I was unable to get the idea across or she just didn't have any. I got a Polet frutos (not frutas, need to look into that) del bosque for 5.1k at a small shop after I finally got out of EP and was heading back towards hostel (with plans to go to supermarket and get AA and some soft drink). I found myself passing JV again so went and had another large granizado - same size, but this time it cost 12.5k for some reason - and slightly milked watching the fountains (which are obviously computer controlled).

I then went into supermarket where by chance a woman was promoting AA green and I got a free sample and I did buy AA green as a result, tho tbh the stronger traditional (with sugar) and without sugar variants at the same price might be nicer, but I figured I would at least try buying the green. I am (and was eg last night) thinking I might buy some AA at the airport airside, where I assume/hope I will be allowed to take it home in my carry on baggage.

Came back to hostel, sneakily washed trousers with soap in bucket in shower (rolling them in my Packtowl in shower to help dry them) and had a shower myself, went back to room and changed fully and went out to El Palador Paisa on Carrera 23 which had spotted on walk back from JV and had an arroz paisa personal and a jugo de lulo, I asked for leche but I think (and they did seem to check and concede this when I paid) it was actually in water as it was OK but not that great, APP was quite nice tho. Had been feeling a little gut-achey, probably just aftermath of massive sandwich overload last night, so this was probably a decent sized "dinner" (esp on top of breakfast and arepa con carne etc).

And then I came up here, so I think we're caught up.

Vague plan for tomorrow is to extend after breakfast (could try tonight, but v slim chance tour agency will call say 9pm saying there is a tour tomorrow) for one more night and then go over to the park on the other side of town. If nothing turns up re tour tomorrow I will again extend for one night and try to daytrip out to one of the numerous thermal bath places nearby on Mon - mixing things up might suggest doing this tomorrow, but I am assuming it will be quieter on Mon. After that we'll see, I won't rule out a fifth night here but it may be excessive.

I am slightly worried semana santa is going to screw me over on accom/accom pricing but can't do much right now. I should perhaps be thinking where I want to be in Bogota (a hopefully sociable hostel in La Candelaria, or somewhere "safer" to go out at night?) and booking that, ideally w free cancellation, soon-ish.

1843 OK, went down, put rest of H2Oh in fridge for tomorrow, got myself a black coffee and have laced it with AA. Nearly too dark to see up here except for phone. Checked meetup while down there and brought O6 and headphones up to maybe listen to music or watch YT - there's nothing in person at all on meetup in Manizales for "any day" , so at least I checked. It doesn't feel like people are socialising all over the hostel and I'm just too shy/unskilled to join them, so might as well just enjoy myself solo.

The AA-laced coffee is not bad, if not "wow" . Maybe I'm just not in a "wow" mood.

As per sketched out plan above, I will barring sudden trek prob spend four nights in Manizales. That is roughly what my "plan" says to do anyway and I think it's easily worth that and this doesn't automatically preclude a multi-day hike from somewhere else, though time is getting tight-ish and it would prob need to be starting from whichever town I go to next.

1848 Into the lining. Just went to sign up for the 100GB GP trial thing and it turns out I can pay using my £0.88 GP balance from (ages ago) doing the surveys, so I don't have to give them my credit card and can spend this practically useless balance. (Way way back I was vaguely hoping to get enough to buy Ultralingua Spanish dictionary without giving Google Play my credit card, but the app/company disappeared long before I had enough and I just kept doing the odd survey here and there and my balance kept expiring in dribs and drabs.)

I wish I hadn't deleted a handful of "large" videos last night now. They may be in the bin, if so I will restore them. If not they were *prob* taken on O6 so I prob have them on there (I am fairly careful to copy O6 - main photo and daily carry phone - to K1 so it is another backup and gets backed up to GP, I am very lax about backing up photos/video from K1 to USB or O6).

1908 OK, that was oddly emotional. Was sitting - not particularly dejectedly - in the dark corner listening to Caledonia (the Dolores Keane version, of course) and on a whim I brought my coffee over to the edge of the roof terrace and looked over and saw all the bright lights in the street and the traffic and people milling around and it all just felt so much more lively. Probably some kind of metaphor for life and/or morality tale to be drawn from this. :-)

1918 FWIW altho MA warned me, the last bit of the sky walk just as you're about to go in the "sled" above holding the safety rope has a tendency to run on ahead and a bit sideways and while of course it was fine this was actually perhaps the scariest bit.

1922 Just been down to get a sugary water tea thing. Youngish woman presumably guest sitting on her own writing on sofa in large common area, elderlyish woman ditto in kitchen playing on her phone, one guy came up stairs. Said buenas tardes to them (except youngish woman). Really doesn't feel like there's a party and I'm not invited; there's just no party. Which is a shame (obv party is an exaggerated word) but outside my control.

Yeah, maybe I just put a lot in but this sugary whatever the hell it is tea plus AA works well. I only had one so far (had eye out but not seen anything offered lately) but it does take very vaguely canela-ish.

1929 Oldish bloke just came up and had a look over the edge. I took one earphone out and said buenas noches, didn't try to push conversation and he's gone. Meh.

1938 I think - not checked - this AA green is "only" 24% and the bottle is 375ml. So not that I'm going to, if I drank the lot it would "only" be like having a bit over 3 pints at 5%. So the fact I might have got through a quarter of bottle already is not a big deal.

1948 Just been down for another fruit tea thing (took photo of bag) and two guests staring at phones in common area.

Hostel is huge and (presumably) pre-pandemic or maybe during higher season here (semana santa, I guess, if it attracts Colombian tourists as presumably it does) it must be heaving.

Two ppl just come up but they are speaking German. Prob just come up for a smoke, I shall keep headphones off but not obviously intrude.

2010 Despite poss appearances to contrary, I am *not* gagging for social interaction at all costs. It would be nice, it's just that I want to be sure I'm not hiding away or otherwise being shy or not stretching my comfort zone and wasting opportunities, to put it overly seriously.

BTW on random note you do occasionally see someone wearing a mask, but - I think this has been true everywhere, not just here - despite (of course) outdated mandatory mask signs and social distancing signs everywhere, I'd say 99% of people are not wearing masks.

2128 Back in dorm, which I still have to myself. Persistence pays off! On returning upstairs with another cup of fruit tea (they are all different btw, so photo is just of one) I met a guy - Sebastien (sp) from Cali - who is a professional drone pilot who has just got into rc car racing and is here to participate in Caldas 27 tomorrow. He did invite me and I just may go over but it looks like a mare to get to, but we had a very nice chat (in Spanish, with him throwing in a little English). He has stayed in this hostel before, he says it has been much busier recently (I was vaguely unclear why it isn't busy now, maybe because we're in between ferias but that is not a high confidence statement) and the clientele is mostly international not Colombian. He was waiting for a pizza and the conversation came to a friendly enough pause so I made my excuses and left him before his pizza arrived, but may see him tomorrow night.

Will prob hang out on my own in dorm a little bit before cleaning teeth etc. He recommended thermal baths in general to me but when I said I intended to go Mon as would be quieter than Sun he said that was sensible and that they are open all week, indeed apparently some are open late into the night and poss all night.

I have prob drunk 2/3 of the bottle of AA - I would have offered Sebastien some but he was drinking beer and didn't have a glass and I also was leery of over-extending things and running into his pizza. Don't feel particularly drunk, as I guess I shouldn't after the equivalent of maybe 2 pints over a fair length of time plus that tiny beer earlier.

2312 Music pounding from a nearby club, very bass heavy and rhythmic. But it's actually softened just enough by distance that it's kind of welcome.

Jardin-Manizales and Panama City-Capurgana (part 5)

Fri 15th 0722 Sitting in entrance of El Fin del Afan. Two other people waiting.

Didn't sleep that well. Getting up early anxieties probably didn't hurt. A few bits of blood on white sheets from cuts, fingers crossed no one kicks up a stink - it will probably be fine and *if* they do I will say I cut myself slipping on the tiles (I have photos of the cuts just out of interest) and thus semi-blame them and hopefully that will get them off my case. (I am not interested in trying to blame them for this - on the one hand a mat might have saved this, OTOH I could have been more cautious - but I also don't think a few bits of blood from the cuts on the sheets should be my problem.)

Vaguely tempted to eat something here. Had a banana back at flat this morning. Not actively hungry and not eating would be no bad thing really. (I am still on the same tightest notch of my belt as when I came out, but that doesn't mean my gut can't have grown slightly or that muscles can't have degraded etc.)

I may get a coffee and see if I can use their toilet.

Yeah, getting a tinto and they have a toilet. Did squeeze a bit out back at flat so a coffee may provoke something pre-bus. 2k, bit small too (but tinto *is*), but fine. Paid now and didn't tip as don't feel it's massively expected.

0749 OK, on bus - a chiva, "La Negra" (snapped photo). Bag is in row behind me, I am probably not going to try wearing headphones. I may get my - yes, I just got it and have it under my seat, was going to take daypack out and put main bag back in informal luggage area in row behind me but felt better to just shove it under seat, then I can get water or headphones if I want and in a pinch (it is buried quite deep) I can get my fleece out if it is a smidge chilly.

The tinto had the desired effect anyway.

This is kind of cool really, and a bit more of an experience.

Looking at guide book it is *v* brief and not that helpful on tipping but tbh I am starting (rather late, of course) to suspect that most places a tip is not expected (fancier restaurants will add it to the bill), esp if there is no tip jar. But I don't want to be mega stingy but I also don't want to overpay or be paying unnecessarily and they think I'm weird/a sap. Meh.

I forgot name of place (Riosucio) when asking if this was my bus and just ended up saying "para..." and the guy looked at my ticket. But I am hearing lots of other people say Riosucio too so it is right.

1118 Some sort of obstruction in road (?) and we may be held up an hour (? not sure anyone knows). Handful of Colombians on bus (mostly tourists) relaying info from driver. Feel OK. Surprisingly enjoyable journey in its way. "Toughed out" the minor chill earlier, then we stopped after about 2h at Paraje (?) Peñas Blancas and went for welcome but not desperate piss and got an empanada and a coffee (3.5k) and got someone to take my photo by bus (copying them - incidentally it was 99% sure the bloke of the couple who happen to be by the wooden highish building I snapped who took the photo of me by the bus) and it feels vaguely exciting and adventurous.

Felt warmer after food and coffee and possibly the weather has also warmed up and/or we've gone lower - we have passed through 2900m-ish altitudes earlier. Scenery very nice, weather cloudy and lots of mist on distant green mountains etc (tho naturally the active appreciation fades over time and I have been seeing this kind of scenery for a while now).

1139 Got out to take a look. Big plastic pipe across road and a tractor thing with a bucket on the front not doing much. Few other vehicles waiting. Road in general is not "bad" but v windy etc. I suspect this is not the same road we came into Jardin on from Medellin.

Overheard one bloke is going to Salento and there's one bus a day and if we are delayed more than an hour or so he will miss it. Also overheard another French couple who are going to Manizales. Not actively worried - actually being very chilled about all this - as I think there are quite a lot of buses Riosucio-Manizales.

I was and still am thinking I'm going to get bread and ham and gorge on sandwiches at the hostel this evening, unless the environment/kitchen is somehow uncongenial. And I will probably have a quiet night in, sit in common area (again unless somehow uncongenial) and if I chat to someone great and if not I will write stuff up here etc. Will casually eye up any tours offered by hostel and go out tomorrow and generally see the city while trying to visit some tour agencies. Not going to pressure myself to see or do anything outside hostel tonight.

No Movistar reception here so for better or worse am spared temptation of browsing web to kill time.

1153 K1 batt at 42% (didn't start full as had it in bed) but let's bash out some more of boat trip.

FWIW memory maybe fading but if I didn't already say I think we were woken up by someone wandering round with a bluetooth speaker playing:
day 2 - Nora Jones sunrise song
day 3 - Mana, En El Muelle De San Blas
day 4 - Caledonia (not the Dolores Keane version I knew, some bloke who may actually be more known for singing it or perhaps even the original singer)

I am standing on road in front of bus, little fear of it running off without me here or anyone stealing my bag.

Day 4 after breakfast - oh, pipe has moved and tractor JCBish thing coming out so gonna get back on bus. It is 1154.

Took some extra photos of chiva from various angles including experimenting with low angle and also took photos of wood truck stuck behind us btw.

1156 Sitting on bus. It's cooler on here, not tremendously cold, but it was really pleasantly just slightly warm off the bus. It is cloudy.

Anyway, day 4 after breakfast iirc we gave two of our passport copies in to staff and we got on boat to go to puerto obaldia (this is actually mentioned in colombia guide book and once we got there we were effectively doing the "get into panama from colombia" stuff in reverse), went to a bakery where we could get snacks and there was wifi so I was able to check on family etc (and nothing had happened, and I had generally been pretty relaxed about it) and we went over in small groups to immigration office and I got my passport stamped out and was photographed and had to give my fingerprints (all of them) again.

We then got back on the boat (oh, there was a resumption of Green Glass Door game which Lane had introduced during a wait on our boat on day 1 - I think there was general incomprehension with this, including on my part, and I *suspect* - I haven't actually checked the "secret" online - from my side it's because I was one of the people for whom it was more or less obvious but because you sort of can't just say "the rule is X" and other people weren't getting it I found myself wondering if it was deeper than it was - oh, and on day 4 I did experimentally ask some questions expecting to get a "no" answer to see if I got a "yes" answer which would refute my guess at the rule - which I think is "anything with a double letter pair" ) and went - we got the dual flags at the sea border pointed out - over to Sapzurro in Colombia where we docked and walked a short distance to beach where we had ceviche (v good and just how I'd "expect" with no weird sauce, I haven't had chance to eat any ceviche since but I am now v open to it in Colombia) and tamales (huge) and could buy beers on a tab and we also had a coconut milk based local ice cream (the style I also had at top of La Piedra and must try some more before trip finishes).

Gave a tip (USD20 as recommended) and paid the tab and luckily they accepted my Balboa coins and then handed the remaining 70 cents in (with an apology/explanation) as an extra tip - after all, otherwise I'd just be lugging them round Colombia and they'd sit in a drawer in my flat for ever. We said goodbye to Kuna crew at this point and got a frankly rather iffy looking local boat (I didn't get a life jacket either) from Sapzurro round to Capurgana, was sitting next to Shane and Emi (sp) for this as think I already noted. I decided in the event of capsizing I'd grab my mostly empty 5l water bottle and use that as a float.

In Cap we went to the SBA office, there was apparently a queue at customs (oh, while on iirc atidub on prev day Lane had said customs had said they had power - remember there is intermittent mains in Cap - and she WAed/e-mailed photos of passports through to them which may have speeded them up) so we were kind of pointed out where we could buy sims etc and this is when I wandered round to my accom and had (I need to check another day if I already wrote this up) the discussion about the price and had to faff and free cancellation and so on. I then came back and rejoined rather straggly group and we walked round corner to immigration and went in 2-3 at a time and it was super fast, literally a minute and maybe faster.

Never had one of these situations where I'd been stamped out of old country and then stamped into new country several hours apart, and we were (incidentally we are still sitting here, so I was premature getting back on bus, but it is not a big deal and I'm sitting on bus as I write this) in Sapzurro without formally having entered Colombia. I guess this is just accepted but it still felt slightly odd.

We were given a bottled cocktail outside immigration (also a first for me, never had a cocktail at immigration before) and then we drifted off to reconvene for dinner that night (not paid as part of trip, and as prob already noted I didn't eat as the pre-booked food was lasagne) and I went to hostel and paid and emptied my bag out onto the spare bed and despaired/marvelled at the chaos and had all that really fit in my bag and just how many fucking bin bags and smaller plastic bags there were. I ate a packet of mani garapinado and showered and changed and deeted up before going out to dinner.

Very long table and it was slightly awkward but luckily G/J opposite so spoke to them a bit. Afterwards we went on to a bar down by the beach a few mins walk out of town and then we moved over to another adjacent bar and I think this was the night there was that weird business about it closing and some people went on to dance and drink on the dock and I walked back with Lloyds who was leaving next morning and I prob already wrote this up.

I want to write some general notes on the trip but I will stop here. I need to check if there are any gaps in my chronological write up but it will be easier to do that once I have wifi and more battery.

1221 Just sneaked off behind the second of the two wood trucks to get some privacy and have a sneaky piss at side of road. Not desperate but was welcome.

I was on the winning team for the final night pub quiz btw, though I don't think I was particularly responsible and the whole thing was probably a lot of luck etc. I did enjoy the quiz more than I expected given the subject matter tho.

1230 Just checked and we are actually only 5km straight line from terminal in Riosucio.

1235 General waffle re boat trip...

I think I got on OK with most people, there were some subgroups I hardly spoke to (perhaps age/sex/language reasons, but not sure) but in general this was all fine.

I didn't feel enormously "in" with anyone. This is probably just me, and although I don't say I would have or would maybe have wanted to fit in with the more "rowdy" group (eg they were quite big into the beach volleyball as well as drinking), the fact I was feeling a little rough even the first day (and thus being careful) and then the second day just naturally kept me apart and even without any "do I need to be careful wrt drinking when I'm going to be on a boat etc" issues restrained me from drinking that much and being that social (two related but distinct aspects). I did as I think I already noted feel slightly BNM on the first island stop but this was perhaps in my head and or perhaps illness related etc, plus obviously it takes time to feel like you know people etc. I didn't do too badly overall.

I really over-prepared for water damage to bag, especially given I had my bag with me between my knees not wrapped up at front all the time. Putting the K1 and any other valuable (eg USB stick with photo backups) electronics inside plastic bags inside a dry bag would have been fine but I went overboard.

It was a nuisance not having a single bin bag big enough for my (rather bulging - remember it had my shoes in) bag. It *might* (tho my daypack is fairly small and generally this is good) have been better to try to fit everything I actually needed in daypack and give my main bag in for "no access during trip" transport.

It would also have been good to try to pack all the stuff I really needed (eg one change of clothes, toiletries, towel, powerbank) somewhere super accessible (eg the two lid compartments of my main bag) - as it was I found myself scrabbling round and packing/unpacking a bit more than I'd like with increased hassle and risk of losing stuff. This is the stuff I'd have wanted to squeeze into daypack if I had decided to let other stuff go in "checked baggage" for the trip. It *might* have fitted - basically what I listed above plus maybe some extra medicines and some extra uw and maybe a spare top just in case. Oh, and tho I don't think I used or needed it, fleece might have been smart in daypack if I didn't have main bag (where it would have been ok to have it buried but accessible at a push).

As it was I often found myself scrabbling desperately in poorly lit rooms to eg get my toothbrush and toothpaste or to find my towel or whatever and stuff was all over floor etc.

In terms of clothing I wore the flip flops (if didn't already mention it toe strap on one broke in Sapzurro but they did last the main trip and are still just usable and I am taking them home and they may be gluable, tho in hindsight the cheaper USD4 pair might have been more repairable) all the time or slipped them off for comfort eg on boat. I wore swimming trunks and red ss top during the day, in evenings I put my trousers on and wore a blue RS top, I'm fairly sure I wore the same trousers+blue RS top+uw every evening, but it is just possible I changed the uw at least once (given I was only wearing them for say 6ish hours a day the idea of wearing same uw every evening was not out of question and I may have done this) - also bear in mind the uw was not including socks as wore flip flops on bare feet all the time.

I wore the bandanna and prescrip sunglasses on boat, in evenings I switched to cap and regular glasses. A solid glasses case to protect the non-worn pair would have been good but perhaps a bulky luxury in general. Wearing prescip sunglasses and not being able to trivially switch to regular glasses was a bit annoying at times eg when going into dark accom or when talking to people and having to remember they couldn't see my eyes and it may have looked rude (tho probably didn't given the beachy type env).

1255 It looks like motorbikes may now be able to get through.

Vaguely tempted to open my packet of mani garapinado but I am not really hungry, we may be on the move soon, it would be good to have a nice appetite for sandwiches once I get to hostel and depending on timings (I don't want to miss a bus onward) there may be a chance of some kind of snack at bus terminal in Riosucio.

(Eating en route is not necessary but in moderation - eg the empanada and coffee this morning, esp after letting myself feel a bit cold - it can be quite an enjoyable part of the experience.)

Left arm still hurts a bit, not too bad but if I put mild pressure on it (eg having it on my lap and it bounces against leg) it does hurt a bit more - I suspect it may be a bit bruised (internally?). Fairly sure it will be OK in a day or two and it's not terrible even now.

There are actually two JCBish things.

I didn't put any sunblock on today as I expected to be under cover all day. I am sure it's fine - I have not been out that much and I do have some base tan and wearing long sleeves - but do need to be a little mindful of this.

1304 Back on bus. FWIW it's very high and climbing up while not hard is not trivial and would be hard without using the handles.

My ticket actually has an assigned seat number (5, oh fwiw I was in room 3 at accom in Jardin) but I don't think anyone cares. I am noting that the banks of seats are numbered, I am in row 7 so maybe I technically should be two rows forwards but as I say I don't really think it matters, unlike some buses where sitting in the exact seat seems to be a big deal.

1306 Bus engine just restarted.

1348 On minibus waiting to leave Riosucio for Manizales. 26k tho not paid yet. Bit of a free for all of drivers calling out "Manizales" but fairly sure not being massively ripped off.

In hindsight I could and maybe should have spoken to people on the bus, or at least during the 2hish delay, but I also did feel kind of nice being sort of alone but "with" the group as a whole.

1944 On lower terrace of hostel.

Bit tired and sleep and hot at times on drive to Manizales. Manizales itself has quite impressed me - albeit we got here lateish, it is cool temp ish, the cable car from bus terminal to Fundadores was cheap and fast and fun, the long but not crazy walk from F to hostel was along a pleasantly bustling street. The hostel itself also seems pretty cool, and I want to stay longer than 2 nights (but I am gonna go see about some treks tomorrow - there are two companies in guide book, one of them might do a medium difficulty 2 day hike to lake otun, see what happens tomorrow). It is pretty empty and I do currently have 4 bed dorm to myself. (Given this, despite lack of private sink in shared bathroom, I may water only wash a top and maybe some uw and leave them to dry on end of bunk overnight.)

I went out and got mortadela and pan integral and stuffed myself silly on sandwiches. Two young German speaking women in kitchen and eating at table with me - I said "hi" in kitchen and they responded but otherwise we politely ignored each other. An older G speaking woman spoke to them briefly as they were eating. There was a bloke on upstairs roof terrace (quite nice) when being shown round but not seen him since. free coffee but it has run out so having free aromatica type "tea" and tbh prob going to move towards bed soonish.

no surcharge for ccard so paid hostel with that and apparently not charged vat so 108k COP which isn't too bad. Also paid in supermarket for mortadela, bread and 50ml toothpaste (18kish all in), as the current tube (which I think I bought here after my two sample sized tubes from home ran out) is nearly empty and prob won't last the trip. Toothpaste prob 3kish.

One of the two tour companies only seems to offer a single day hike, the other have several but all are either single day or "high" difficulty which puts me off but we'll see how it goes tomorrow.

Breakfast 730-10 so try to be up earlyish esp if go to bed early. Depending how tours go there is some tower nearish hostel you can go up and walk round on the external ledge wearing a safety harness which sounds kind of cool but borderline within comfort zone and actually not dangerous. Also various parks and stuff and lots of local junk-ish food options on eg that street I walked over to hostel along and I could see spending two+ days in Manizales touristing it up being fun - but depending on what's possible I may go off and do a multi-day (if only two day) trek first.

It is Fri night so maybe the other people are out partying but it really feels like it's me and the hostel owner type guy here and that is it, unless ppl are in bed. Mildly annoyed at having to fill in a Google form with my details on checkin but not a huge deal (I should have deliberately mistyped some stuff, eg passport number, but I did do it from mem and it may be wrong anyway, tho not sure - not a huge deal as I say). Otherwise v impressed with hostel, just a shame it is not that busy.

There is a big table covered in tourist material by reception desk but having looked at it all (covers, not opened everything) it mostly looks like fluff or single day activities etc.

1957 Beers available on honour system here but I am resisting v mild temptation - this will at least be one day off alcohol. I really do feel a bit tired and nothing is doing and maybe I'll finally sleep well and I do want to try to get round a bit tomorrow (not pushing myself) so I'll finish this tea and go have shower and do sneaky laundry etc and go to bed.

May buy a bottle of aguardiente tomorrow to take round with me and have the odd nip of/share out, wrote about this (sort of thinking Old Parr) before and didn't do it so if I do it now I won't be massively over-consuming during remaining time.

2048 OK, in dorm alone, did shower and water only wash one top and one set uw (there was a bucket in shower, I could prob have used it with soap, but didn't - won't wash tomorrow unless I am extending another night due to drying times). Shower nice and hot (bit wussy but fuck it) after I let it run for a bit while rinsing clothes. Faffed around copying today's photos to thumb drive/K1 (GP nearly full but it may last the trip) in case of accidents. Have set alarm for 830 and going to bed now.

When I was being shown round I asked and guy said tap water was fine to drink (we spoke Spanish BTW, he may speak English but I don't know) so I am drinking it. Got a chilled bottle of tap water I put in fridge with me, not as cold as I'd like and toilet is a long walk away but still, nice to have some cold water.

Going to bed. Bed seems pretty wide, almost 1.5-person width maybe.

Jardin, Thursday and Panama City-Capurgana (part 4)

Thu 14th 1535 On balcony at flat (which I still have to myself judging from keys), having last can of Pilsen.

Didn't sleep great again. Got up OK, went over to tour place and waited to start. About 9 of us on tour, the others in pairs (but not nec relationship couples) - think there were a German speaking couple and the rest were Colombians. All in Spanish. Guide spoke a bit "confusingly" (probably quite colloquial) but I got the gist of everything.

Ride there and back in back of jeep with benches down side - I got a spot at the back so could see right out, except briefly on way back when we gave three people a lift and they stood on board at rear - was perhaps actually coolest part.

We were given a bottle of water and an energy bar and (as it turned out) a small fruit pate type sweet at start. When we got off jeep (incidentally it rained heavily but briefly towards end of this, luckily as I hadn't brought fleece or rain jacket it stopped and I got away with it) we walked 5ish mins to a cafe/hut type place where they gave us a cup of (poss) hot sugar cane drink, a small empanada (German woman gave me hers, which was nice of her) and a possibly arepa with a big chunk of possibly panela on top, which was quite nice. We then walked maybe 30 mins down a trail (rough-ish but well maintained and with wire or hose-over-wire hand rails most of the way) to the cave.

To be frank my initial reaction to the water gushing through the ceiling hole was "is that it?" I had half expected to wander several minutes into a cave to get to it for a start. To be fair it was quite cool and I did enjoy it, I just don't feel it was quite worth the faff of getting to and the cost etc. If I'd hiked 3-4h to get there (which you can do, modulo dogs etc, and pay 20k to enter iirc - no obvious sign of "only 40 people" stuff in guide book) it might have felt a bit more "what a nice end point" .

Four or five people went into the water - spoke to some afterwards, mild teasing about me not going in. Apparently it was cold but not freezing, prob up to about breast height except maybe right under fall but you can't go there as it might be dangerous and/or you get pelted with small pebbles in the water. Half wish I had done it but not a massive regret. I did put hand in water near edge and I'd say cold but not freezing was fair.

We were there ages (I ate the snacks for something to do) then trekked back up - I had a bit of chat (all in Spanish) with a Colombian tour guide (not our guide) - and we were given a fruit juice and a small piece of cake and then got jeep back to town. Other people were tipping guide as we got out of jeep (he was in my jeep, we had two though) and I felt obliged to give 5k but wasn't super happy. It's not that I didn't like him or think he did a bad job or anything, it's just the tour as a whole was expensive-ish for what it was and this felt a bit OTT for not a huge amount of work, but whatever.

Finger break.

Just figured out the "43% mas pola" on beer can - web searching had failed to turn up "pola" . But I thought about the "cola y pola" and thought maybe pola is a Colombian (?) word for beer and on inspecting the asterisk on the 43% bit it says compared to 330ml size, so yes, I think pola=beer (maybe a specific type of beer for all I know, but prob not).

1550 When we got back I walked down to the bus "terminal" (more a garage) and spotted a manizales sign in "el fin del afan" restaurant doorway (it looks a somewhat nice down to earth place but unlikely to eat there) and paid 28k for a bus to Riosucio at 8am tomorrow. Apparently it takes 4h!? (Guidebook says 3, and is otherwise accurate about times.) There is a direct Manizales bus at 645 taking 4h30m (! way faster) but 645 is arse o'clock, it was 68k-ish and I'd just rather go via Riosucio. I asked and also did some web searching yesterday and I suspect there are plenty of buses R-M.

I have WAed accom to say I need to leave 715 and ask if I can just leave key in door.

I then wandered down to the teleferico Gwhatsit (OM is on other phone) on the offchance it exists and it does! It looks a little scary - the single car appears to ride on one cable either side with some plastic wheels just riding on the cable without being captive, maybe I missed something - but I figured it's prob OK. 5k each way, I asked for a return but was luckily told had to buy return ticket at other end. Short but vaguely cool ride. Two oldish women from this morning's tour were there, one jokingly accused me of following her.

When we got off they said they were walking back and I looked at map and ended up following/joining another middle-aged-plus-ish Colombian couple (having one eye to dogs; some barked in gardens but nothing in street) to walk the shortish hike down and back round to the suspension bridge just south of the "nice sunset" place I went to on first night. Wasn't exactly scared to do cable car a second time but the variety was nice. Chatted with them a bit in Spanish, couldn't get everything but did OK - they were from Envigado.

I wandered down to rock garden from N side of bridge - saw it in OM but in hindsight, though I misunderstood at time - the guy from the couple had told me about it as we drifted apart on bridge (I was taking photos) - but it was closed. No big deal. Niceish little walk down there and there was a horse sticking its head out of a stable high over the steep path.

I then went to El Ganadero and had a beer (wasn't going to, but it was hot and I figured I'd kind of earned it with my dynamic morning of modest chat and the bonus teleferico+walk circuit) and a white coffee and booked dorm in hostel in Manizales for two nights (judging from "only x left" stuff on booking.com, at that point I was the *only* guest, we'll see - I suppose if I do get dorm to self at least I'm not really worse off than if I'd got a similarly priced private elsewhere). Came back to accom to do overdue exercises (not a euphemism, btw!) which I won't be able to do in dorm even tho really didn't feel like it and then came out onto terrace for this beer from fridge as "reward" .

Been drinking too much lately - not massively but most days. Prob fine-ish healthwise but it's becoming less special, I need a break but it's difficult with eg having been lugging that rum round and "oh, it's my last day here" etc. It's fine.

I think from Manizales I will see if I can do *some kind* of trek - doesn't have to be Lago del Otun. Colombian tour guide woman is doing some single day trek to top of a 5km mountain, she says she is acclimatised to altitutde etc, but I suspect (despite what I thought at time) this isn't the one I thought it was, as guide book says even experience people prob don't do this in a single day. Still, as i say, I have vague hopes of finding some multi-day trek in Manizales (tour guide woman said there are lots of companies, but also said to search on web, so dunno if there will be shops, we'll see) and that would be a good "big ticket" ish item to finish the trip. I am open to liking Manizales and spending a week there (tho some of that might be off on treks) if it feels appropriate.

Fingers hurting. OK, thumbs mostly to be pedantic.

1603 Just seen on WA chat from San Blas group that G/J are here in Jardin! Given they were going to Cartagena and had plans to go to the northernmost point of South America (which does sound cool, maybe something to combine with lost city hike on a future trip) I am surprised to find they've already been through Medellin and are here. (First night here I did see people sitting outside the bars round the square and really felt like I *ought* to just bump into them, given they always seemed to be sitting outside with a beer when i bumped into them. But I suspect they only got here today.) Sent them a message on offchance they fancy a beer. This would work well, beyond needing to be up earlyish I don't have major commitments tonight. Wrt food I am toying with getting a bigger-than-personal (as the personal is small and proportionately cheap) pizza at the place I went to on first night.

2107 Back at flat finishing coke bought first night (finished rum yday as prob said).

G/J were having beer on square so I hastily went to join them and had one before joining them to go see the cock of the rock birds down by (as it turned out) the "beautiful sunset" place/yellow suspension bridge - I saw one from a distance (they had some binoculars so I could take a closer look) - then someone mentioned the rock garden and we went down there and it was open (15k) and you could see the birds right up close (I did have a quick look with binoculars but you hardly needed them). We didn't wander the gardens as I might have done on own to get value but still pretty cool and I wouldn't have seen this if hadn't met them.

They then went off for dinner and I suggested we meet at El Ganadero after. I went and had a one-size-up-from-personal pizza (carne this time) for 28k plus 6k for jugo de lulo en leche and 3k (lack of change) tip (prob not expected to tip, no jar, but who knows), came back and had a shower. I then went and got myself a raw carrot (bought yday), rinsed it in sink in my bathroom, and slipped over barefoot on the slippery tiles before I could get back to the bed and sit down. Horrified. I have a nastyish long scrape down my left arm and also a separate skinned patch nearer elbow, I think the impact may have resulted in some bruising as it was hurting quite badly for at least half an hour and tho much better I can still feel it now when i think about it. I was obviously worried I'd broken it and was testing it to reassure myself. In hindsight a mildly stupid thing to do but otoh I was hardly off my face (two beers and I hadn't drunk for at least half an hour) and I was only walking around, maybe I just let my guard down, or maybe having something (even if just a carrot - which I did drop, but re-rinsed and ate anyway) in my hand made me less able to recover my balance. Time seemed to slow as I feel and I think I was thinking "oh shit" .

Anyway, did go and meet them at EG, they only had one beer, I had two. Amicable enough. Slim chance I will see them in Manizales (it may be too soon even if they do go there, and they may just pass through - they are heading somewhere south of Salento for some archaelogical ruins, having decided to ditch beach-y stuff when they were in Santa Marta, they flew to Medellin, booked without realising it a hotel in Parque Berrio - bad part of town at least at night - and only stayed one night and got the bus here today and are here for 2 prob extending to 3 nights) or some possibility in Bogota. Cool to see them again anyway and I wouldn't have seen the cocks of the rock (which are - not all over - an amazingly vibrant red) if I hadn't met them like this.

2156 I also have a scrape on right arm, tho this is less noticeable wrt pain.

Have 95% packed. Fingers crossed don't get up late and can check round unhurriedly. Accom said on WA I can just leave key in room door, so barring problems locking electronic street door I should be OK to leave when I want.

Let's bash out a bit more of the boat trip. After showering and not staying to play with the kids, we went out into the town again and a local dance school put on a display of dancing for us - someone has a video of this, but I didn't bother and I may try to download it but not done any of the other people's stuff yet - which was actually more enjoyable than I'd expected.

We then went to a local restaurant (and could buy drinks on a tab - I had a mojito 8%ish at iirc usd3) where we'd pre-ordered food at lunch, I had the fried chicken, which was OK if not amazing. There was a very nice bold little cat which kept coming up on the table, I had basically finished eating but it did come up on my knee and onto the table at one point and got the remains of my chicken in its mouth. Quite a few photos/videos of this, albeit prob poor.

We then went back to tourist accom and altho we'd been warned it was a 10pm curfew it turned out today was one of the days this just didn't apply after all. We had a "pub quiz" (three rounds, one on each of Panama, Colombia and San Blas islands) which went on til past 10pm. After that we were drinking including some of the Kuna guys and this is when I had that chat with the guy about smoking (in Spanish) and he was also telling us a different story of the three times chicha fuerte is made/drunk compared to earlier guide (first guy said birth, first period and then first period again but a bit later, this guy said iirc birth, first period and gah I've forgotten but maybe it was before fp and maybe after but it was "distinct" ) - I could understand his Spanish but Lane was with our small group at this point and translated for the others.

There was some "horse racing" (with cards) and people playing music on Spotify and esp as I'd been in bed prev night I made most of it while not getting insanely drunk - the beer ran out and I switched to water rather than rum - and altho people drifted off and I wasn't absolute last to bed I did go to bed iirc 130ish. Towards end of evening someone suggested jumping off the dock and we went out and someone was saying it was a bad idea and they were wasted and it was dangerous and I agreed but it did also seem kind of cool, and Lloyd, Michael (who was pretty drunk in a good way and was perhaps heart of party) and *maybe* Rob (Martin's friend) but far from sure right now of third guy did jump in. I was very slightly tempted, not exactly peer pressure, but it's not like I'm a great swimmer, I was wearing "normal" clothes not my daytime swimming gear and had phone in pocket and even if I'd undressed I could see my stuff falling off the dock and the moment passed - don't really regret this, though it might have been nice and sort of fear-facing if I had done it. We were nicely asked by Lane to turn the music down at maybe 1ish but not a big deal.

I didn't feel too bad the next morning. I happened to wake up iirc 645ish when we were supposed to get up at 7 - something like that - so I went and had a shower (ie poured water over myself using a bowl floating in the water bucket in toilet) to freshen up and then maybe went back to bed for 30 mins or however the timing worked.

Breakfast on day 4 was OK, fruit and muesli with greek yoghurt - something I eat rarely enough I *always* think it feels weird and vaguely disgusting (vs using milk) when I encounter it but I try it anyway and realise it's nice (and in this case at least wish I'd added more yoghurt). I could go on but that's us on to day 4 at least so I will stop here and move towards bed. I suspect I'm not going to sleep that well but fingers crossed. Not exactly looking forward to two buses etc tomorrow but fingers crossed will all be fine and it is also not exactly a "hard" day.

Bit sad to be leaving here and that trip is coming towards an end but a) it will also be nice to get back home and try to get on with my "normal" life and my ongoing goals and eat semi-sensibly and enjoy luxuries like practically free coffee ad lib just from walking into the kitchen etc etc b) I still have enough time I'm not actively thinking about getting back to Bogota/getting to the airport.

Oh, if I forget, Garry turned 65 last month and Joanie will be 60 this month.

I do still have the flat to myself btw.

FWIW the floss I brought out (99% sure it was new for the trip) from home ran out probably not last night but the night before - iirc I just had enough at the end of the reel to do my teeth the first night here. I have probably flossed pretty consistently once a day, not saying I've never missed but generally fairly good about this.

2239 Been idly skimming photos. Bed.

Jardin, Wednesday

Wed 13th 1618 At accom, having rum and coke on terrace. Didn't sleep that well, not sure why. Had set alarm for 8 but snoozed and got up somewhere after 9 and prob left accom 945-10ish.

Walked over to tour company for La Cueva del Esplandor and booked for tomorrow at 9am (70k), have to be there 845. It's 40 mins walking iirc, not walking there and back - minor shame but only one company allowed to do these tours so can't be helped. I asked and there is no crawling or climbing or deep water and I can wear my regular "tourist" clothes no problem. All this in Spanish and guide is Spanish speaking too - I have to say Jardin seems fairly good for speaking Spanish, I guess it gets a lot of Colombian tourists.

Jumping ahead, I've been mulling and I think I am not extending here. A quick poke on guide book and a think at cafe by Cristo Rey suggests that I either extend here at different accom in hope of meeting hiking partners to do some of the various longer hikes here (general safety, but for me esp wrt dogs) *or* I move on, prob to Manizales which sounds quite cool and may (it's super unclear) be somewhere I can book a three day hike to Lago Otun (sp) and maybe generally outdoorsy. I have done the stuff I really wanted to do here (assuming cave is OK tomorrow) and given I am coming to end of trip and staying longer may jeopardise poss of things like this three day hike it feels a bad bet to go to some random hostel - it may be virtually empty and even if not I'd then have to meet someone *and* they (sing or plural) would have to be up for hiking. I could see myself coming back here with more time and seeing if I can hook up with someone like this but right now it feels like a bad bet.

I then walked up to Cristo Rey, asking some local guy after I went through a mildly private looking gate if it was OK. I went wrong after the bridge, realised and go back OK, at which point a random dog appeared (lucky it wasn't on the private bit I needed to retrace my steps on really) and while it didn't quite go for me it seemed agitated by my presence and I felt (but wasn't, tho it did disappear and then reappear below me) chased up the steepish hill on the CR side of the bridge and this shitted me up slightly.

There was a couple who had been behind me who got ahead of me due to my wrong route and I intermittently saw them. They pressed on past CR and having seen a mirador on OM I semi-followed them. V hot BTW. The mirador was OK, I then saw the start of cross hike 1km down the road and figured I'd go have a look. Trogged over there, no dogs and the odd tourist, bicyclist or tuktuk. Some web searching on phone turned up loads of hikes but most sites didn't mention this cross hike, but I found https://cataintheworld.com/2021/02/22/el-camino-de-la-cruz-a-great-trek-in-jardin-colombia/ which was very detailed but a) tbh I was scared of dog possibilities, the one potentially lurking at bottom of cr hike was already making me jittery b) she says 3-4h, it was 1130 at this point and the weather was oscillating between sunny and misty and I had no rain jacket or anything and I got a bad feeling and decided not to do it. I then decided I'd maybe stroll a bit up the trail (I knew I was in right place as I was right by the "this is a place of prayer not fun" sign she has a photo of on her blog) and a dog in the garden of the house at base of trail (which prob couldn't get out) started barking and I just turned tail. Kudos to Cata if she did the hike on her own. This feeds in to the hiking partner waffle above, which logically belongs here but I wanted to write that above.

I then walked nearly back to top of "post CR" trail near mirador, then decided maybe I ought to take the windy road down into town shown on OM so walked the 1kmish for the third time, then tried that iffy looking windy road and it appeared to peter out immediately at the house under construction and walked the 1kmish back to top of trail near mirador for fourth time. Trogged down to CR, went into the finca cafe and had three very nice cafe espumado (I asked, and this was milky) for 6k each (20k with tip), had big dump, then hung around for as it turned out 40 mins waiting for someone, anyone, to be heading down the trail so I could ask if I could join them. I did ask a group coming up if they'd seen a dog by bridge and they said no.

In the end a nice young couple on a daytrip from Medellin (we engaged in some moderate chat towards end of hike down, in Spanish) went down and I asked if I could join them and said about the dog (probably spoiling their peace of mind) and they let me go with them and of course - I even had a rock in my hand - the dog was not there. But hey, while I could have done better, I did at least chat with them in Spanish. I was tempted to invite them for a beer or coffee but I didn't, partly as I didn't want to waste their time and partly as there was some linguistic uncertainty on my side as we came back into town about whether they were going to a mirador on the other side of town or whether they were asking if I'd been to some mirador or if they were inviting me to join them and I should probably have clarified but anyway I didn't - tbh they didn't seem desperately keen to stay with me (our chat had been OK but a little awkward-strangery) so probably no lost opportunity.

I then went to El Ganadero and had a beer and a large coffee with milk and then figuring I was milking it a bit popped round corner to the restaurant doing pad thai and tikka masala and asked and they didn't open til 5 (it was 1615ish) so I came back to accom ("hostel", but it isn't a hostel, but I should write that if I want) and had this rum and coke and wrote this.

I am lowish on cash - I need to count up tonight or tomorrow afternoon - and may wd some tomorrow. I don't want to be stuck with loads but prob worst case is I get stuck with a hundred-ish quids worth which isn't as bad as 2020 and isn't too much exposed to inflation and I am quite likely to be back in Colombia within the next few years anyway. [On checking later I found I had more cash stashed away than I thought. I need to keep an eye on this but I don't think I have an imminent need to withdraw.]

I will prob book for two nights in Manizales so I can see what it's like (it may be activity kind of place) and I may extend but in case I can do a three day hike from there (far from clear) I don't want to be stuck with accom I am not using. By not extending here and bearing in mind nowhere on my draft itinerary is a must do I prob have time to engage in multi-day hikes if I want to without feeling too pushed for time. It is prob less critical than in hindsight it was here but it would be good to be in a proper hostel, tho if I can get a decently priced private room at a hostel that's great.

1928 Back at accom. Pissing it down. Got back just before it started. All other three rooms have keys in door so prob just me here. Gonna have shower and do laundry then go have a beer on balcony.

Went out to restaurant didn't get name of and had chicken tikka masala. Actually not bad but "garnished" with cut up bits of tortilla with (I asked) "balsamico" drizzled over them, so had to leave them and that slightly ruined it for me. Also supposed to be 36k (with limonada de jengibre, which I'm glad I tried but which was neither nice nor horrible) but seemed to get v little change from 50k, I didn't count it, I just kept the 10k as I'd planned and left the smaller-than-I-expected change on counter as tip. Not really "bad" but the whole thing just felt slightly crap and I had been toying with going there tomorrow for pad thai but probably won't now.

Wasn't going to go to square tonight but compromised (seems a "shame" to kill time in room/accom more than nec) and went back to El Ganadero for a couple of large white coffees, then came back here. Had quick poke on phone while at EG and it looks like there is a half decent (but poss mostly empty) hostel in Manizales which may also arrange some kind of tours (incl mentions of 3 day hike, no idea where but maybe good and maybe Lago de Owhatsit). Annoyingly dorms there are about ten quid a night and privates are three times that, whereas I could have a perfectly decent private for ten quid a night at loads of other places - but I guess I will go for the dorm (and, tho it would kind of be counterproductive, I may have it to myself anyway) given it would be good to meet people in general if poss after this lonely-ish stretch post boat trip/Capurgana and also wrt poss tours etc. Not booked yet tho.

Really pissing it down, at least judging from sound on roof.

2012 Had shower, did laundry. V slightly creepy here on own but out on balcony over street and loads of people about incl in adjacent houses so feels much better. Having beer.

Can see cross and Christ on hill straight opposite balcony. If not clear earlier the reason it being 1130 when at start of cross hike mattered (on top of the other stuff) is that for a 3-4h hike I would definitely prefer to be starting earlier in the day.

I have actually used my travel clothesline to hang stuff up to dry in bathroom. As usual (not always) I have been too lazy to roll stuff up in my packtowl and squeeze it to get some water out that way - tbh this may in part be why esp socks tend to never get properly dry, I should (but aren't now for this lot) perhaps just make a point of doing this for uw or at least socks. Tops tend to dry pretty well anyway.

Incidentally for weeks now my green soap bar has disintegrated into a soap slurry, probably but not sure a side effect of me pouring water into the bag containing it to dissolve some soap into it then tipping that into sink to wash - I have done that before no prob, but I guess at some point I left too much water in. Something to at least be careful with on future trips, maybe just take the soap out and rub it in the wash water directly and/or perhaps cut the green soap into smaller chunks so I don't "lose" (I am still using it, but it's a bit sucky) the lot if this happens to one chunk.

2102 It stopped raining a while ago BTW. Maybe 2/3 through this 473ml beer, I *could* have another (my last) but I'm not desperate, I can prob have it tomorrow or take it on with me and it would probably be better to maybe watch a bit of YT and try to get to bed earlyish given the (not mega early, but still) tour tomorrow.

Pleasantly warm out on balcony with a very light breeze.

2107 It is a little bit of a shame to only have one day left here (both this accom, esp when I have the balcony to myself even if it is v slightly creepy, and the town) but a) I *do* still have a day b) better than being keen to leave c) I think it's the right decision, I may well return but there are other cool places to visit and possible fun encounters etc and with time being a little tight (tho 2 weeks out of an 11 week trip is not nothing) it does seem smart to leave my options open when there is nothing pressing/reliably achievable (finding hiking partners is heavily luck based) here.

Medellin-Jardin and Panama City-Capurgana (part 3)

1012 At hostel.

Didn't sleep very well again, prob not swimming nerves but who knows. Couple of guys presumably from hostel chatting in street outside room at 3am, dunno if they woke me or I just heard them while I was awake.

Did get up 720ish to go swimming. Had fucking messages from Jardin accom demanding 50% payment to a Colombian bank account. Naturally booking.com emails vague as fuck - there is a 50% prepayment mentioned but it is far from clear if this is taken by credit card or whatever. They also demanded my ID details and similar wank. All this in Spanish. Flipped out a bit, replied in Spanish just saying sorry I'm a foreigner so can't pay Colombian account and not offering any other suggestions or alternatives or anything. I did comply with the ID demands so hopefully this gives an appearance of non-stroppiness. Fingers crossed. Push comes to shove I can probably get alternate accom without too much fuss judging from plenty of availability last night and then argue the toss via booking.com/ccard chargebacks at a push if the accom is stroppy. Or, you know, they could just wait less than twelve hours and get their money in cold hard cash no fuss.

Phone GPS decided it wasn't going to lock just cos I was hurrying over to swimming pool and that got me chuntering to myself as well.

When I got to the pool it was surrounded by and full of 60ish yo women (all in hats or bathing caps) who - hard to tell, and I felt vaguely pervy peering in through wire mesh and equally didn't take photo - might have been having swimming lessons (I saw some noodles) or perhaps were playing a beginner level version of some water sport - the pool *might* have been divided in two, hard to say. There is a second pool which looked unused but judging from the giant swan waterfall-ish thing I suspect it was a shallow kids pool. Given all this I didn't go in and speak to anyone at the booth - the pool was so full and even if it wasn't reserved for something specific at best i'd have felt extremely uncomfortable and struggled for space to swim and been worried these old women would get arsey about my not complying to the letter with the dress code etc. I *didn't* flip out about this - perhaps it was a slight relief (tho seeing all these people there and it being daylight etc made it seem much less intimidating) but more to the point I'd made an effort and I couldn't have done more.

I wandered round and had quite a lot of coffee (tinto and with milk), ham and cheese croissant, some sweet pastry thing and a freshly fried rice and meat empanada at a place nearby (have photos - corner calle 87 iirc, but may not) and quite enjoyed being up early and watching traffic and passersby. For second time in Medellin (first time at masapan?, not sure - yes, think it was) I got far too much change back and was honest and reported it (maybe I'm a sap, but my position is (inner OvB :-) ) if people play fair with me I play fair with them, and when people don't play fair with me I kick up a stink and/or may consider screwing them in return if I can).

Then came back to hostel and have 95% packed and am going to head out soon but letting water filter through me. Had big dump on getting up so feel fairly sure I won't need to go again today.

Fairly sure I need terminal de sur and it's 2km+ walk from nearest metro. Bus line 1 goes there but I am far from clear where I could get it. Given I have backpack I am going to get a taxi. I think - esp as *will* have K1 with me to receive texts on UK num at a push - I may experimentally try to book an Uber via web on O6 and if that fails I will ask reception if they can call me a taxi.

Slightly edgy I won't be able to get a bus but in reality it should be fine. r2r says there is an hourly service, it says north terminal but given my subsequent poking around while it's utterly unclear I am fairly sure gb is right and it will be south terminal for Jardin.

1035 Last piss. Kind of don't want to go but no point hanging around and the sooner I get to the bus terminal the sooner I get on a bus and the sooner I'm there and can deal with any accommodation shit with more daylight on my hands. Prob end up paying for piss at terminal anyway just to be safe but we'll see.

Gonna hand key in then book Uber from reception.

1117 At terminal sur. I was gonna book Uber but then it popped up with the fucking "lease" shit so I cancelled and booked a taxi via Uber instead - only a smidge more expensive and I paid cash (22k, within price range quoted) and no fuss, made sure we did the "closing handshake" before I got out of car jic. Paid 40k for a ticket on 1200 bus to Jardin, asked and it will prob get there 1530-1600. Tempted to wait but I guess I will message accom asking for the code now.

OK, done that. Fingers crossed they are not gonna piss and whine about the prepayment, the place in Monteria didn't and it does smack of boilerplate but this is a bit of an "unattended" homestay type place not a proper ho(s)tel so who knows. I need to remain calm whatever happens - *absolute* worst case is I get shafted by booking.com despite complaining and they take a charge on my credit card then I have to pay for some other accom, which would be a pisser but we're looking at maybe thirty quid down the drain so no point getting worked up esp when we're nowhere near arriving at that point yet. I suppose absolute worst case is there is *no* other accom in Jardin and I'm left sleeping in the street or desperately hopping on an overnight bus if there is one just to have somewhere to stay, but this feels extremely improbable.

Tempted to snack or get coffee but probably not prudent on toilet grounds plus I am not remotely hungry after this morning's snacking at that cafe-bakery type place.

It's annoying to pay 22k for the taxi here when the ticket all the way to Jardin only cost 40k but can't be helped - it's not a lot in absolute terms and given the lack of metro connection and my unwillingness to experiment with bus routes here semi-against the clock and lugging my main bag it is what it is.

1134 Moved seat as was getting intermittent smell of dogshit. I really hope it's not me but given I can't smell it now and I don't think I've trodden in any and my shoes are dirty from all the mud weeks ago but not obviously having anything in the tread fingers crossed it isn't.

1151 On bus. Really don't need a piss and I asked driver before getting on and he said there will be a break halfway, so that should be fine (fingers crossed). Not much but rather not pay 1100 just to dribble out a tiny bit of piss here.

Brought main bag on, *just* managed to squash it into overhead rack. Have daypack with water (just for emergenices) and headphones at feet. Will prob listen to music en route unless anything diverting turns up. I asked for and got an aisle seat when buying ticket btw.

1623 In room, WAed from street and got details. Waiting to hear when they are going to come and collect payment before I go out. Still, all mostly OK and no apparent bad blood between us.

Was hot as hell for part of way on bus (just after rest stop), I suspect engine heat or misconfiguration or something on aircon. It feels warmish but not insane. Some v cool views from bus, earlier on there was an almost perfectly triangular mountain silhouette.

Seems quite a nice but maybe touristy place. Feeling some self-generated pressure to "do a lot" . I may try to extend a night or two if all goes well but don't need to get worked up.

2013 Back at hostel. Had a few beers at El Ganadero (not "El Ganador" as I at first read it) on square, also a white coffee to start (3k large coffee, 5k beer).

On initial wandering I was feeling a bit down and paradoxically hacked off at only having two full days here but also kind of hating it. Genuinely unsure what to do re food and beer or no beer etc. In the end I went and had a pizza (personal, smallish but nice) de la granja at Pizza Gwhatsit (have photo - Geraldino?) which maybe helped, then went and bought some beers and coke (minor and prob genuine addition error in shop's favour which I caught) and dropped them off in fridge and came back out (struggling and whining out loud to get electronic lock to lock) and went down to spot on OM just south of town (which had checked out during initial wander) to see sunset but v cloudy so didn't stay. Wandered round square (as had done before going back to accom briefly) and picked El Ganadero as looking unpretentious and having tables outside and I asked price of white coffee and then beer and they were fine so had coffee and then three beers - was gonna have two, but for first time in what feels like years the guy handed out bowls of free popcorn so I had a third.

Dark out here - sign says not to turn light on - and there's only this one table with three chairs but it's fine. Is prob one other poss Eng speaking couple here but have only seen the woman briefly in kitchen.

During first wander found D1 supermarket as recommended by Diana staff woman who turned up to collect the money (no fuss, luckily I had 137k to pay the 136k and a bit bill as she had no change) - the worst chain in Colombia, probably, and they sold no cold beer and only two brands I hadn't heard of. Apparently tap water here is drinkable (Diana said so, and a quick web search seems to agree that water in Colombia often is) so didn't buy any water - not that D1 had any, of course (I think).

I did spot a smallish local but walk round supermarket down by the sunset view place so that's good, if I need it.

Felt better after food and while meeting ppl etc would be nice I did try with some success to appreciate sitting outside EG looking at the square (church v impressive at night, also shoved my head in briefly during day wander) etc and having a few beers and listening to the Spanishish ranchera??ish music etc.

Plan for tomorrow is to try to be up earlyish, maybe go over to the one tour company allowed to do hikes to nearby cave and talk to them (if there's availability and no spelunking I may book) and then maybe hike up to Christ statue and/or do some other local hikes. I *may* extend here a night or two - here or in other hostel - depending how things go, just cos coming up to end of trip it's silly to rush off if I am enjoying myself.

Fingers hurting so break.

2025 Hearing noise reminds me that there was at least one and poss multiple guys (at different times) practicing some sort of dressage (? horse walking with a very tight sort of tap-dancing gait) in the street in town.

Let me waffle about day 3 of boat trip.

As I think I already said, felt much better at breakfast on day 3. Water not terribly rough but no trouble anyway. Think this day I ended up at far left of boat (2nd row from reary where there is a lot of spray (I think left way more spray than right, due to direction of travel and currents etc), but I half sheltered behind a life vest and it was fine and sort of fun.

Day island was Atidub (Ati's Island iirc - a Kuna guy who apparently bought it for USD50 a while ago) which was quietly touristic-ish but nice. As I think I already mentioned there was "easy" snorkelling here but I ditched the group snorkel after lunch sharpish as I just couldn't keep up with everyone else and then I started to get leakage and this was the day Severin mentioned the bandanna ruining the seal. Bit hacked off at my continued failure but the fact is I *didn't* do this as a kid or teenager and I can only keep trying.

I mostly lay around a bit but did I think have a beer or two and also watched the beach volleyball (some people got quite into this during the trip) a bit and didn't feel too BNM.

We were told on leaving island we were going to go on cayucos (Kuna canoe type things) to Caledonia (about 3 mins away in motorboat) - it turned out (contrary to my assumption) we were rowing ourselves (two to a canoe, except one - not mine - with three). They told us to sit on floor to reduce chances of tipping and we put *all* our stuff on main boat to go over. I deliberately hung back and got in last canoe with an Irish guy who I'm ashamed to say I didn't know the name of - not having any special "friend(s)" I didn't want to force myself on anyone. It was hard but kind of fun and I think I did OKish - we did make it, and despite setting off last we weren't last in. And - luckily given we didn't have lifejackets (which I kind of liked in a free-and-easy no H&S type way) - we didn't overturn, unlike the last boat in (Poz and Leyla (sp)) - I was genuinely impressed how unpanicked they were at ending up in the water. I asked Lane how deep it was and she said "not very" and Poz (who was however a pretty tall guy) did say he could touch the bottom when I asked (tho I didn't get to really probe this so we may have been at cross purposes), but this was near-ish the dock and who knows what it was like midway.

Some neighbour has turned ther light off and it is nearly pitch black out here except for phone screen.

We got small numbers of beds per room here - I think I ended up sharing with the guy from my boat (who didn't speak to much, not in awkward way, it just happened as he went to bed way before me) and third bed free. Had a beer or two and G/J showed us their seaview room and Noa pointed out the drop toilets over the sea near their rooms (more "concealed" pipe into sea toilets near my room - I didn't use the over sea ones) and then we went for a walk round the town. Intrigued - and to jump ahead I asked a drunkish Kuna guy in Spanish that evening about this - to see that practically all signage in town in Spanish and that cigs were openly on sale (signs on side of shops would show price for packet and carton in Spanish) despite cigs and booze apparently not being allowed, and the Kuna guy told me that they all primarily spoke Spanish there (iirc) and that while you weren't supposed to smoke as such (paraphrasing here) it wasn't exactly forbidden if you did it in your own home without anyone seeing. (Beer was not iirc openly sold in town; I think based on asking Lane and general vibe that the Kunas more involved with the tourists and maybe their friends can and do semi-openly come for beers and even at a push rum in the tourist "compound" but most Kunas would not be allowed/would not want to, and I kind of infer that it's maybe a kind of open secret that the tourist-associated ones do have beer etc there. I am probably getting the details wildly wrong here but this is the vibe I got.)

At end of tour we could stay to play (Duck Duck Goose, I think) with some of the (adorable) local kids - who were on last day of their 3ish month "summer" holiday - but partly as I didn't know how to play and partly as I wanted to shower and partly as most people were also leaving I didn't, which was maybe a bit of a shame but not a huge deal. Joanie did say and told me about it later, sounded fun but also like it kind of degenerated into a bit of a nice-but-chaotic free for all.

Fingers hurting so break and may not write more of day 3 tonight. Feels weird sitting out here in dark but will prob finish beer then go back to room for YT and hopefully an earlyish night.

2044 Considering it was cold when I bought it and it's been in the fridge and it's borderline pleasantly warm out but I haven't been out that long this beer is not really very cold and it's slightly unenjoyable as a result.

I am having to shine my phone screen on table to see beer can and glass. There is a sofa inside and the other couple are afaict watching TV in room, I am out here a) so as not to just be hiding away in room b) as I thought it would be nice to be out in open air (the "garden" is a walled in but large courtyard, frankly more tables would be nice but maybe they don't really want it used given don't turn light on sign), so I am not not using the sofa because I'd feel in the way etc.

2051 I do feel slightly drunk. Which reminds me - I don't think it was beer related (only had 3x330ml out, and prob 2 of those at this point - and then this 473ml can back at hostel) - I looked round the square with glasses off at one point and it was actually kind of cool, esp the church being a blurry massy of lights. But interestingly I noticed my brain/eyes doing something a bit like when a camera autofocuses - I'd be staring at something (the church or the clusters of four globes at the top of the streetlamps) and the focus would intermittently shift and slightly improve briefly before reverting back (presumably given my eyesight defects it cannot focus perfectly, tho it is odd it didn't seem to stick at the best focus possible). I did try closing each eye alternately and tho that has a weird inhibiting quality on my ocular comfort, I don't think that completely killed the effect.

I don't feel drunk drunk now or anything, just sort of very slightly unpleasantly aware I've had a bit to drink. It's also not entirely unpleasant, maybe sitting here in this very dark high-walled courtyard and staring at phone screen just slightly makes it uncomfortable.

I got 2 small packs of some sort of (as it turned out) sweet-ish bread with a kind of fruit jam in them on for 5k on bus post toilet break (700 pesos, btw - first time not free on bus iirc, but at least cheap) - one for 2.5k - as I'd been feeling slightly stomach achey (poss also stress re accom etc), doubtless due to eating junk a lot lately eg this monring - and they were surprisingly nice. Still have one pack left as I showed some restraint and may try to save it for hiking tomorrow.

There is a place nearbt which does tikka masala and pad thai and I may indulge in one of those tomorrow - prices in the 30k iirc, not terrible. Did also see a few "menu del dia" at 20kish places, so while I'm sure you can pay through the nose here it isn't *that* bad - it may be oriented more to local tourists than foreigners. The not huge (which worked well given I had snacked this morning etc) but nice enough pizza tonight was only 17k, plus 6k for a jugo de lulo en leche and I tipped approx 2.7k (2k note plus some misc change as I didn't have enough to make it 3k).

When I stop looking at phone screen eyes adjust rapidly and there is just enough light to see my beer glass and can on table and the bottom of the courtyard.

2329 OK, bed. Will set an alarm for 8 and see how it goes. All else being equal it will be cooler to eg hike up to statue earlier, but I also do want a half decent night's sleep. I hope - whatever the cause - I sleep better here than I did in the Medellin hostel.

Medellin/Guatape, Monday

Mon 11th 1951 Not a bad day overall.

Got up a bit after 6 despite feeling shit. Pleasantly cool out. Got Metro over to Caribe - minor fuckup changing at San Antonio and it seemed the only way to "fix" it (I followed the crowd and ended up on the wrong direction platform heading S instead of N towards Nuqui) was to dash through a B train which was just about to depart, but I did make it.

Got ticket last-ish minute at terminal norte (20k), made it OK and it wasn't really that last minute. Bus was nominally 715 but it actually left 725ish. About 2h to La Piedra (incidentally it is prob called this or El Peñon, sometimes with further adjectives, I have been calling it El Peñol but that is one town near it - and I didn't visit that town btw), asked driver to let me down there but prob unnec.

Walked up the steps/access road to carpark. Mildly needing piss I stupidly paid 1.5k at a restaurant at bottom only to find there are free toilets at the top. Meh. 25k to go up, not too bad. Quite a nice walk up, I did also want to test my fitness and did it in under 15 minutes which I think wasn't too bad (and I did sidetrack to look at "shrine" part way up and was following other people a bit). Bit cloudy/misty but views still very nice.

Definitely started to get busier over time, hardly deserted when I got there 945ish but fairly quiet and I am glad I went early.

I treated myself to a michelada de mango - nice enough but insanely priced at 12k, no idea if this is "top of EP price" or if it would be that expensive anywhere else. Also had two seemingly pricey "chunky frustum" style ice cream things - a bit like the one we had on last day of boat trip in Sapzurro - at 10k each.

Milked it a bit up there but it wasn't too excessive and it was quite cool. I kept telling myself not to get worked up about rushing back for swimming, in the end I checked the INDER website from the top and indeed the pool "near" hostel is closed Mondays, so I am going to make an effort to go tomorrow 8am. Oh, when I came into hostel tonight chap on desk was all chatty, told me hot water should be on in shower (I had no idea there was supposed to be any), said they hadn't seen much of me and I confirmed checkout 11.

Fingers hurting so have a break.

2002 Was trying to sort out accom for tomorrow and do Duolingo but network seems to be done.

I am incidentally a bit sorry to be leaving Medellin (but I still have a maybe-swim to go), but as always that's kind of good. It does feel right to be leaving now though - I am towards end of trip and rightly or wrongly don't want to piss time away, the social scene here seems (maybe I'm just missing it) to have died since early 2020, I've got the two things I wanted to do done and as it's very much the kind of place I am likely to come back to, it's good to have left a few things (like maybe a daytrip to Santa Fe) for anothet visit. I quite like the city as a city, albeit it's still a smidge warm for me during the day (but not terrible), but without all the social stuff from 2020 it isn't the same.

View from top is cool and the amazingly fractal-ish lake with all the islands is strangely charming.

I walked down - interestingly on a different parallel staircase which feels a little subterranean and damp at points - and then down the other route to the road where I'd been dropped off and got a bus to Guatape (3k) no fuss. Guatape is attractive and colourful (though it's a bit grim on the shoreline, perhaps due to low water level in the lake) but at least the central bit seems massively touristy. I wandered a bit, saw cannabis beer on sale (but enquiries/sneaky menu reads before I came home showed all craft beers - not just this one - are like 20-25k for a 330ml bottle in the two bars I tried, so fuck that - when I can have a pint in BBC for 16kish this feels like a pisstake, and I'm seriously not that bothered about trying the cannabis beer, the taste might be interesting but that's all, I'm pretty sure it has no effect other than regular alcohol as otherwise I'm sure it would be illegal and if it *did* have an effect trying it before a 2h bus trip and then metro probably not ideal), was toying (despite pizza overdoes) with going to Luigi's as guidebook made it sound good and cheap but afaict it's no longer there, but I had a pretty decent casado-ish menu of the day at El Rosal for 20k+2k tip, and I used their toilet on general destroyer tactics basis.

I then meandered down to malecon and the whole boat trip thing felt decidedly unappealing and "where the fuck is it and where is everyone?" but a tout approached me and told me 20k and showed me some pictures and in the end he pointed me over to the muelle and I walked over myself across the dirty-ish exposed pseudo-sand and joined a tour (all the others seemingly colombians) which spent an hour on the lake and had various houses of celebrities I'd never heard of and ex-Pablo Escobar and his mates properties etc pointed out but it was kind of cool (and we got to see La Piedra from the lake and the cross which I think guide said marks the spot of the old church, and the nearby doctor's house who was murdered by one of his 27?? children for his inheritance but it turned out none of the children were registered officially so no one inherited anything, or something like that - tour was in Spanish and I got the gist but it wasn't easy with noise and driver's accent).

I then wandered round and asked about beer but didn't have one and got bus back. I bought a ticket and didn't give ID, turned out there's enough demand my ticket was for the next bus not the one waiting (only 5ish mins in it) but a young woman called Charlotte wanted to wait a bit so the guy who was checking tickets swapped mine with hers and I got on that bus (I asked if the fact it say Charlotte - no surname - on ticket would be an issue and guy said not, makes a change from my usual alias Steven British anyway) and semi-luckily got seat 19 which was up front in the passenger seat in the driver's cab. It was cool to see out of the front but it also lacked legroom and by end of 2h15mish journey my knee was hurting a bit. I also fell asleep a bit during the first hour, perhaps due to it being warm up there or just general tiredness. (If I had had beer, cannabis or otherwise, I would doubtless have blamed that, but the only alcohol I'd had all day was the michelada at 11ish and that wasn't very big, tbh I rather doubt I even got a full 330ml bottle of beer given the smallish plastic glass had big chunks of presumably mango in, which I did eat using the cocktail stick in the one huge chunk.)

Traffic bad-ish but we did get into bus terminal maybe 1800ish and I got metro back (had to top card up first) as I did on arrival. Would have been nice to try electric bus line O which goes direct between terminal norte and Floresta but I had noticed when eating phone battery had declined rapidly (bad luck? lots of photos? no idea) and it was like 10% at this point and it was getting dark and I wanted to get back so I didn't fancy hunting it out in terminal norte or risking ending up somewhere unknown at far end.

I had a tinto and a slice of marble (?) cake at Masapan - the place by Floresta metro I've been a few times - as a pseudo farewell. I spent ages in Vaquita dithering about buying snacks and/or soft drink for tonight but in the end I was strong and realised I wasn't hungry and still had a couple of bananas left and walked out without buying anything, then came back to hostel.

I will write about onward travel later once i've booked something, fingers also massively pins and needles from writing this. well, thumbs mainly.

2126 OK, finally booked something in Jardin. Got a private room in a small apartment for with luck COP135k inc taxes for three nights. Cheapest dorm was about 90k. Some dorms were 135k. I do slightly worry this will be bad for socialising but tbh a lot of the hostels seemed to have suspiciously large amounts of dorm availability for tomorrow; there may have been literally one or two beds sold in some of them, if that. And I couldn't pass up the private room with excellent reviews and it is possible I will be able to meet people somehow. As I say just because something is a hostel or a dorm doesn't automatically guarantee meeting people or even people *to* meet.

2231 OK, moving towards bed. Not packed as such but at a pinch I just need to shove everything in and make sure I don't leave anything behind. Vaguely edgy re swim tomorrow (is it gonna be cold? will I drown? etc) but ffs ignoring temperature it has gotta be less stressful than the sea swimming/snorkelling I've been mucking about with more recently.

There's some crap re asking for an access code for new accom when I'm "nearly there" but meh, half expected something like this and I do have a local SIM and can prob message from the bus etc.

Will send this now.