Ancud-Castro

1053 At terminal. Woke up about 930 and it was really pissing it down. Got up about 945 and out of room by 10, cleaned teeth and left. Amazingly it was sunny by this time and the weather held all the way here. Passing that greengrocer from last night I dithered but went in for some fruit & veg and carried it with me, then stood on corner diagonally opposite terminal for 15-20 mins eating it (figured slightly more private than terminal itself, but close enough to leg it over if it suddenly started to rain). The 11am bus just pulled up, so I have an hour to wait but can't be helped. Actually, I think that is going to Puerto Montt. Been peering at timetable in ticket window but not very clear. There is only an 1100 bus to Puerto Montt showing on Sundays but evidently this is a PM bus and of course it doesn't matter, I'm just bored.

Slightly tempted to buy some food here at terminal but will try to resist; be much nicer to eat in Castro and I think the bus only takes 1.5 hours, so even allowing for the (unknown distance) walk to hostel and checking in, I could be having lunch by 2:30 with a bit of luck, plus of course I have just eaten.

Some little kid is whistling, it is a bit piercing.

1208 On bus, leaving few mins late but no matter. Double seat, yay!

1335 At hostel, all seems good, wifi works. Tempted to inquire re Valdivia ticket at terminal but it's still early and it's v near so didn't, good job as forgot is another terminal (also near) so need to check that to get best price/option.

Ancud, Tuesday

1254 At Balai again for lomo a lo pobre with coke zero. Only left hotel 10-15 mins ago, woke up some time before 11am alarm but then snoozed heavily before and after, got up about 1215. Actually not that bad out, hourly weather forecast says 1mm rain an hour which is tolerable, think it sounded and looked worse from my room. (I think it was raining harder and windier last night though.)

Not sure what will do today, perhaps wander up coast in opposite direction though don't want to go too far afield lest it really piss down. I got through all the main tourist stuff yesterday, I could have tried to arrange visit to penguin colony for today or done a tour of the island churches, but not desperate to do former and I will see at least one church in Castro and sort of seen one here and unusual and attractive as they are I think being dragged round on a tour in the rain might have grated a little.

Wearing long-sleeved shirt over yesterday's T-shirt inside out (washed ones not dry yet) under jacket, not sure this is necessary but equally it's not too warm.

1342 Food not bad. Bill 6800, think will head vaguely south along coast for half hour or so and see how it goes. Tipping 800 as given change. Anyway, let's go. Needed to call bank for some time and could have done this morning but didn't want to linger once got up in case missed lunch opening. No big deal.

1413 Back at hostel. Did walk along coast a bit but with the not-that-heavy-but-persistent rain being driven into one side continually by rain and my jacket not really being waterproof and my trousers definitely not figured I'd come back, may pop out again for fruit and possibly beer 5pmish. Throat hurts a bit, probably from cold. Did pop into nearby bus terminal and it seems to cater for coach-sized buses, so I really would have been better off getting my bus to Castro from there but what can you do? As long as it's not raining any more than this I can walk to the other terminal tomorrow morning without getting intolerably wet and it's all exercise...

1805 Just had Spanish lesson. Torn about going out. But I am inclining to just hanging around in my room. I wouldn't mind having some fruit, but I am not going to stand in the street and eat it in this weather, and if I do go out I want to go for a beer and I'm not lugging it into the bar with me. I wouldn't mind a beer (and the atmosphere that goes with it) but at the same time will I be able to relax if I'm worried about getting soaked on the way back or am a bit damp while I'm there?

1809 Fuck it, I'm going out, I can always turn back. Not going to be out long. No, as I write this it sounds like a bad idea. It's not that heavy. But it's just enough and I have only just stopped being damp from before and I don't want to fuck myself over physically and I might get massively soaked tomorrow morning anyway so don't want to overdo it. I also have plenty to occupy myself with here. I am a bit worried I might be dragged off to socialise or have to make awkward excuses if I stay here.

No, fuck it, I will go out, as I say I can always come back in ten minutes time.

1853 At Retro Pub. It's not that bad out at all. Serendipity threw small greengrocer's with covered outside at me so I bought and scoffed some fruit/veg. CLP2500 here for a schop, I thought the guy said it was a half litre but that would be mega pricey and rough finger measurement and calculation suggest it might be a litre. Can't remember what a pint looks like, despite drinking them in Bariloche.

1938 Nearly finished. Definitely not stopping out, though don't regret coming either. Fingers left hand bit stiff, prob from water on them as washed fruit from bottle of water in street and the cold, hope nothing too serious or aging stuff. Florence and The Machine playing, some live video. Anyway, finish beer and back. Not v busy in here, about three other tables occupied. Not staying out cos of curfew and cold and wanting to pack and have a shower and just generally not majorly in the mood and after relative excesses of last week good to pull down average consumption for a bit.

2224 Uploaded some photos and milling about in room. Few notes on yesterday's barbecue. About seven or eight of us in total. Food pretty good, chicken, pork, chorizo, some possibly potato based grilled bread and an apparently Chiloe-specific variant on that with chorizo in called something like (making the spelling up) mikow IIRC. About three visiting Chileans, a couple of Spanish women (one may have had some German connection but was fluent in Spanish, both lived in Madrid), an Italian woman and (a few people came and went at times, I doubt this adds to seven) a couple of other Chileans who might but not sure have been relatives of owner chap. His mother I think did the cooking but she didn't eat with us. There were also some huge dishes of local (I asked) mussels and similar shellfish; I took one of these and it was OK but always a bit dubious about seafood. Conversation all in Spanish; I didn't say much but a bit, and I could more or less follow (sometimes just at a 'get the gist' level) all of it, which was something if not as good as I'd have liked. Conversation generally was slightly stilted but it was OK and it was a nice gesture, especially for free (look on it as compensation for the 1000 change I didn't get - I probably said half-accidentally at the time it didn't matter - when I paid for the room, mainly joking there as wasn't fussed and the meal was worth way more viewed from that narrow perspective) and I am glad I didn't avoid it.

If not already said BTW was at Hospedaje Lemuy in Puerto Montt.

Will have to pack - I always seem to act as if it's a huge chore not a five minute tops job - tomorrow morning as clothes washed yesterday still damp. Tis OK. Being really slack about reading guide book to see where I might go after Castro so I can book accommodation or what there is to do there or stuff generally.

2244 OK, forced myself to look at guide book. I had seen some mention of a ferry off island which had some interest. This is to Chaiten, which for the moment I assume is acceptable at least and from which I could get a bus northwards. There is a boat from Quellon which both the guide book and the owner chap here (may be called Roberto but not at all sure) say is dangerous. It leaves on Thursdays at 3am. Yeah, right. I fancy hanging around somewhere dodgy and getting to the port at 2am. OK, I could get a taxi and I'm sure it would be fine. But anyway, I am in Castro Wed & Thu nights and I don't intend to prolong my stay on Chiloe another week after that. It's cool and I may well stay a few days more but I don't have forever, plus it seems to me the sort of place where serious outdoor wet weather gear is desirable, especially if you want to go off walking etc. Possibly somewhere to come back to from that perspective on a shorter, more focused trip carrying more specialised gear.

Anyway, they also in high season (now) do a boat from Castro, but that leaves Sundays at midday. Now I suppose I could possibly consider that; would need to check but I suspect there are things (including daytrips further afield) I could occupy myself with in Castro for an extra two nights. But the question is, are there any free seats? Oh, both trips take 5h approx.

Yes it seems they do, the website even seems to handle foreigners and it's an affordable CLP12000 for the trip. Let's have a quick check on hotel availability in Castro and Chaiten before probably booking.

2300 OK, that's not happening. My hotel in Castro has one cheap room free til Sunday, but my usual web sites can't do any better than £88/night (for a quadruple room, with I think no option on sharing) in Chaiten and the guide book also says accommodation is scarce. Buses seem local-ish and require connections elsewhere to get on the main transport routes. So given my rough plans for this trip, I don't think that's a good idea. That's cool but doesn't help me decide if or where I need to book for Friday night.

Anyway, I should move towards a shower before it's too late. Let's try to reassemble the mess of disturbed sheets on the bed so I can get in ASAP after and then I can always continue to look into this/surf slackly from in bed.

2337 OK. I noticed when looking at Castro on booking.com that apart from the place I had already booked Wed/Thu night, the next cheapest option was... not cheap. Details in a bit. Anyway, having noticed there is a bus to Valdivia taking about 8h from Castro while browsing guide book (Santiago is about 16h) and having looked at Leslie's recommendations from Friday night and seeing it contains Chiloe (ie here), Valdivia and Concepcion (also Pucon, Villa Rica and Puerto Varas, which I will probably omit on this trip but who knows) and checked locations on map, I inclined to extending in Castro for one night (I don't want to assume the bus out will be overnight, so I only have 1.5 days/two nights with previous booking) as it looks fairly interesting even if I don't do any tours (as I say, Chiloe is perhaps to be revisited with more appropriate gear, though this taster is nice anyway), then taking bus to Valdivia. Concepcion is north of there (as Leslie said, but wanted to check not mistaken when noted down or whatever) so I may stop there also en route to Santiago. Anyway, for now the plan is an extra night in Castro then bus to Valdivia and 2-3 nights there. Not booking that yet as have a day or two in hand plus want to see what bus arrival times are so as to know whether the first night there has a first day of activity or bus preceding it. This itinerary might (it's bit loose due to unknow bus details) also see me arrive in Santiago on a Thursday or Friday, which would be handy. I might or might not stay in Santiago quite a while (4-5 nights) but we will see.

Anyway, I got the last single room at the same price as previous booking in my hotel in Castro. That is £18/night. Same place has a double room at £36/night which is tolerable I guess. Then the next cheapest *seemed* to be several hundred pounds a night, but I forgot to order by price (not that it made any difference to what I booked). I normally notice this but because I had already booked somewhere there it came up first in the list without me having to sort by price instead of by recommendation. There is another place with double rooms at £22/night, for example, so it's not as 'phew, I got that room' as I thought. But obviously better to be in same place all three nights (even if I don't get to keep same room, though can't see why I wouldn't) to minimise hassle and maximise free time.

Anyway, may surf a little as not tired but that's the next little bit of the trip sorted out anyway. This also probably sees me at Santiago having only been in Chile two weeks, so if I only do Calama (for the mine I missed last time, though maybe the distance will force me to stop off a couple of other places) in the north that is about right to spend three weeks in Chile which was my rough plan (plus having dropped the Patagonian exploration idea, I think I was only in Argentina about two weeks, which was about what I originally planned before the Patagonian plans suggested I might spend three weeks there).

I should perhaps look into that mine tour a bit ahead of time in case it's only certain days or I need to book but not doing it now of course. If I can't do it not the end of the world, though by same token if I can't I may take a different route up towards Peru, though probably not. Could even fly. Anyway, now definitely not the time for this.

Ancud, Monday

1145 Weather forecast is showers today and rain tomorrow. Oh well. Might save me washing my trousers...

1154 Asked chap, he tried lock and I've been switched to a different room (double bed this time). Seeing the lock work on this door, it locks automatically on shutting and the button inside is nothing. I can't help but wonder if the other lock is simply one of those where you push the button inside before going out and closing the door, but he's the owner/manager and I assume he knows how his own locks work so certainly not going to argue.

1224 Bit grim out but not totally soaked. Found cafe place open, having lomo a la plancha with french fries and diet coke, then will head out to a museum. Do wonder about this barbecue tonight, most of hotel rooms seem to have doors open and be empty, otoh booking.com said I got the last room - possibly the last (and only?) single room. Anyway. Will aim to be back about 7 and if no sign of anything can head out again.

1309 Food OK. Here and now I think about it elsewhere the papas fritas have been more like proper chips than french fries; I just always mentally translate papas fritas as french fries.

1314 Bill 6000, shortage of change - don't have note smaller than 2k - means compelled to tip 510, oh well. Off.

Outside, place is called Balai.

1359 Just been round Centro de Visitantes Inmaculada Concepcion. Quite interesting, building itself pretty cool.

1656 On beach. Looking at guide book I could probably have got ticket to Castro from bus terminal just round corner from hostel, instead of the 'old' one some way off. Oh well, as long as it's not pissing it down it's not a major problem.

Went to 'city museum' (pretty good, some nice mithological straw figue things and the whale skeleton and replica boat interesting) before wandering round the fort and on the beaches around there. It is warmish when the wind briefly stops; quite pleasant anyway in a strange way.

1755 Oh, it stopped raining a good few hours ago BTW. Back at hotel. The owner chappie is fixing the lock on the door of my other room so I can move back into it. Not too gutted at losing the bigger room but a minor faff all the same with the shifting. No obvious signs of preparation for this barbecue. I think I will loiter in my room (loads I want to/can do anyway) and see if anything obvious happens and maybe head down about 715-730 and if nothing is visible will slope off. Maybe it's not tonight, I might have not been paying attention when he told me. Frankly I'm not that interested but apart from not wanting to be rude I feel it's probably best 'in the long run' for me to attend social things like this.

Anyway, let's charge phone while loitering and waiting to be told to move room. Occurs to me that might be something which prevents me leaving 715-730ish, anyway, let's see.

Oh, I went to supermarket and bought some fruit/veg. Ate some in street and brought an apple and a peach back with me.

1828 Swapped rooms. Owner chap just came and knocked on door and said they're preparing the table and he will let me know in 15 minutes. I hope this is nothing too overly formal or long.

2035 Back in rom. Not bad if not great, will write up after, made my excuses and left on grounds (not sure I needed any, was sort of breaking up, but more later on this) wanted to call parents and nearly midnight there. This was half true though I didn't *have* to call (I spoke to them briefly earlier, for one thing). Anyway, let's actually call.

2334 Wifi went off during call to parfents. Showered, washed clothes (other way round). It being coldish went to bed, sort of half expectedly fell asleep and woke up maybe 15 mins ago. Probably sounds worse than it is but major rain and wind noise here in room. Not getting up again, have cleaned teeth with brush without any paste and had swig of water and that will do for tonight. Wifi back on, will send this and write up barbecue tomorrow. Based on chat over barbecue plus my own weather forecast examination earlier I may just be holed up in room here tomorrow anyway. Obviously is somewhat satisfying to hear all this while warm in bed but still.

Puerto Montt-Ancud

0759 At terminal. Serious shit-feeling on 7 alarm, major snoozery, dragged myself out of bed 730, left hotel about 745 (owner woman let me out), been here maybe 5 mins, no departure screen so have to keep watching buses and hope. I suspect it is coming from a way off so could be late and loads of anxiety about missing it but let's see what happens.

0819 On bus. Been stood in front of it for last 10 minsish wondering if could and should get on it. Got my aisle set, is a chap sitting next to me but is OK of course, and he's not fat. Still feeling somewhat crap (pain behind right eye especially) but better. Anyway, some music.

1036 Ancud terminal. Journey way too quick. Dozed most of it though bus terminates at Castro so was worried would sleep through. Dredged jacket out of bag just now, grey and bit cold here. Perhaps 'should' have got out of bus on ferry but my jacket was in my main bag (tho that was only in overhead racket) and it looked cold and I was sleepy. Anyway, let's trek over to hotel.

1043 Showing remarkable foresight have just bought a ticket to Castro on Wednesday (midday), so at least don't have to trek back over here later. Let's head for hotel now.

1131 In hotel. Seems quite neat and clean. Curfew of midnight which wasn't mega obvious when booking but in reality is not likely to be a problem. It's grey out and spitting with rain but not cold in T-shirt and jacket. Wifi seems to work. Guy who showed me room told me not to push the button on the handle when going out (but I asked and I can do it when I am sleeping), which seems to suggest it is not possible to lock the room when I am away. He explained this is slightly ropy English, I suspect he meant "don't do it and forget your key" but I will have to go find him and ask again as I can't risk somehow jamming the lock if it is dodgy. He has invited me to some sort of barbecue at 7pm which I would have rather not go to but can always turn up and plead tiredness after an hour or so. Anyway, will go to bog and find bloke and then go out for lunch and read guidebook there. Will take my cap out.

Puerto Montt, Sunday

1112 Didn't want to get up but managed it. Changed rooms, in new one now. Largish single bed but if anything perhaps a slightly nicer room, with a sort of wardrobe nook.

Plan is to head out soon, not a lot to see but there is a lookout point shown on map hotel gave me so may try that.

Cleaning out pockets found receipt for drinks I bought at the bar I went to with Ricardo and where I later went with the other three; 7000 for two pitchers of beer, place was Resto Bar Moe awwat C. Matriz Egaña 121

1824 At Cafe Plaza again, food was good yday and wtf. Went up to Mirador Manuel Montt, pretty cool views. Then walked round towards coast (via supermarket for lashings of fruit/vegetables) and after dithering a bit got a boat over to Isla Tengo. Wandered round there a bit, there was a sort of fair on with some guys performing some (to me) vaguely traditional Latin American music, watched that for a bit, got boat back and wandered over here.

1833 Food completely different to yday. Portion way smaller and third of plate wasted on some slices of avocado and tomato. Sigh.

1859 Not bad all the same. Getting the bill - 6000, need change from 10k. Short on coins and only 1k notes in change so tip has to be 1k. Tis OK but - as it it matters - seems a shame to tip more today than yday when food better yday. Anyway, back to hotel via shop for bottle of water and a cash machine, I have a fair amount on me but don't want to make assumptions about cash availability on Chiloe, though suspect it's not a problem.

2139 Been back at hotel for a while. Booked a fairly cheap single room with shared bathroom in Castro for Wed & Thu nights (after Mon & Tue in Ancud). Seems a good balance between trying to be totally flexible and being shafted with expensive accommodation; there are two more rooms at that approx price (£36 for two nights) at a different place, then the next available is about double that. Being slack and surfing instead of 'preparing' but not too bad. Gut feeling is that I may end up spending about a week on Chiloe and then zooming up to Santiago (about 17h nonstop from Ancud) with just one or perhaps two brief stopovers en route. My travel style very much seems to be to see new stuff but not go into huge depth trying to see everything in a given region as I can always go back and see a different subset of what's there in future.

0110 FFS, I'm not very good at this going to bed lark am I? Still, I am stone cold sober so should be OK to get up 7amish for 830am bus, it's only about 15 mins walk from here.

Anyway, v briefly what happened Fri night. Was in Cafe Real after eating when chap at next table made conversational overtures. Joined him at his table for Fanschop (sp), beer with Fanta (or a knock off of same), which was surprisingly OK. He was Ricardo, probably late 40s or early 50s. We went on for a walk round centre - I was super explicit about not going anywhere isolated etc. We ended up in that bar whose name I mentioned earlier today. I paid for two pitchers of beer, but fairly cheap. I had intended to just have one more beer after we left Cafe Real but atmosphere was quite nice so wtf. They had karaoke but it was tied in with a slightly cruel 'show' (too formal a word), very few people actually sang, I would have done a Prisioneros song given chance but anyway. Ricardo had obviously been a little drunk to start with but in there he was continually asking me if I liked the place etc. He had said he'd help me find my colectivo when we left. I sounded him v thoroughly before getting second pitcher to see if he wanted to leave. Towards end of it he was almost asleep sitting opposite me; I actually went and spoke to a waiter to ask about possibility of having a taxi called for him if necessary. Also asked group at adjacent table what time was dawn with view to possibly not having to go home in dark; it is midsummer here and gets dark v late so was moderately plausible, but they said 6am.

Anyway, I left with Ricardo and he, after sort of hanging around a bit dopily, left me to get his cab across the street. I lingered and asked a passing woman about taxis. Anyway, at this point a chap - Marcello IIRC - who (though I didn't recognise him til he told me) was the chap from next table who I'd asked about dawn and who had come out for a smoke (Chile went UK style a year or two ago) spoke to me and invited me to join him and his girlfriend Francesca and another woman called Leslie; the latter came out to join M as we were talking and I of course assumed she was his gf. Anyway, after being super solicitous that it was OK I joined them. None of these people spoke English, so good practice and fairly chuffed with myself. Spent most of time inside talking to Leslie, who was at university in IIRC Concepcion training to be a large animal vet, as M&F were outside a fair bit, and it was too noisy to speak as a group even were my Spanish up to handling a group conversation of native speakers (which it isn't). Bar shut at about 4 but we (mainly me & L from my point of view, though others rejoined us towards end) stayed to drink up. I bought couple of bottles of beer (one of which never got touched) but they basically treated me from their pitcher, not that I was drinking hugely. I don't think Ricardo was on the scrounge, he was just a bit drunk and seemed basically a nice chap and I didn't mind paying for drinks in return for the experience, but it was nice how the others were. We all got a cab back afterwards, they dropped me off first and wouldn't take any money. Oh, it was Marcello's birthday (night, ie his birthday was the previous calendar day given I met him about 2-3am).

So that was all quite nice. As I say, nothing super exciting but since I write this mainly for Future Steve wanted to note down what happened whether or not it's a particularly exciting story to anyone else.

Have sort of packed, bag contents somewhat in turmoil post dormitory and not yet repacked properly as too busy/lazy. Hopefully sort it out in Ancud at some point. Hargely a huge chore but stil needs a tiny bit of effort to get round to it.

Not tired but should probably try to go to bed soon-ish...

0205 Finally in bed... At least I got my photos all sorted up to and including today (correlated with GPS tracks, copied onto multiple SD cards, camera card empty, selected ones uploaded to flickr).

Puerto Montt, Saturday

1710 Wandering in town, write more later but I found the cafe I went to for dinner last night, it is Cafe Real in Rancagua.

1916 At Cafe Plaza in Guillermo Gallardo for churrasco with french fries and a diet coke. Had my head shaved (3500, made it 4000) at place next door before coming in. Bought some fruit/veg at supermarket earlier and guzzled it on quiet part of seafront. Wandered generally, some live 'rap' (not quite but that'll do) on in (probably) plaza de armas which watched a little bit, walked along seafront quite a way and also sort of following a short 'cultural walk' round centre on map hotel gave me. Place seems OK really.

Got up mega late, not really that hungover from last night (of which more anon) but I've been out late(ish) for the last four nights and after three of them I 'had' to get up early (the dormitory thing) so in part sleeping super late was a welcome luxury. Was awake on alarm from about 11 but snoozed/dozed heavily and finally got up about 2 IIRC.

Leslie last night recomended some places to go to, I may well ditch my 'circuit round through Puerto Natales' plan. In any case I am going to Asomething can't remember this instant in Chiloe on Monday for two nights. Booked hotel when got up, spoke to hotel owners and staying here another night (got pretty good price) though have to change room tomorrow (I booked a twin as that's what they had but I am currently in a double bed+singled bed room) and went to bus terminal to buy ticket before wandering.

Looked at guide book re Chiloe before going. Also slightly tempted by this Navimag cruise (I saw one of their boats arrive as I was eating fruit on seafront) but it's super expensive in decent class and the lowest class sounds a bit intimidating in guide book and then I'd be in Puerto Natales (I think) and back on the circuit (having skipped intervening bit of Chile on shore) and I am inclined not to. Going to Chiloe doesn't rule it out, as it's only 2h from here, but inclination is to save it for the future. Also no idea if they would be booked up or not, but if wanted to could look on web.

Waitress has given me a big rolled up poster thing. I am guessing (it's elastic banded, not opened it) this is a free calendar. A nice gesture though not sure if it wil survive in any fit shape in my bag. I will take it away with me though, I am only going back to hotel via shop to buy cold water and soft drinks anyway. Slightly tempted to go out tonight but I have to be up 10-11ish to change room, I want to sort out photos etc after not being able to do it at hostel in Bariloche and I can surf etc and it has been a touch non-abstemious lately.

1952 Food pretty good. While I remember, I was at Hostel Rodinia in Bariloche.

Bill 6k, since I have about 60 in coins I will 'have' to tip 1k, but that's OK, still pretty cheap. Ah, they gave me coins in change, so tipped 800. Bit stingy but meh, it all adds up and that's well over 10%.

0316 Stayed in but doing photos took ages and been surfing. Not yet written up last night but should happen tomorrow, not that it's unduly fascinating but still.

Bariloche-Puerto Montt

1146 On bus. Despite choosing my seat from a seat plan on computer screen and explicitly asking the woman at the ticket office if it was aisle, the seat number on the bus doesn't match the plan and I'm in a window seat. Happy happy joy joy. Not as bad as on a plane and if I'm really lucky seat next to me will be empty.

Got out of bed just before 10, having been up for queue-then-piss at about 8. Only four pints last night, I was tired and Colin a bit pissed, still a good chat though. Walked over to terminal, had three empanadas at terminal. Went to bog but didn't need to go, had to tip 50 as attendant was super attentive preparing cubicle. Think is bog at back of bus anyway.

Given immigration and customs forms as got on bus, relatively clear and unwanky. Some chap has borrowed my pen.

1201 Naturally a group of three seemed to pick my seat area to sit when they booked, one next to me. Fortunately the bus is largely empty at back so have shifted to one of several empty double seats. However we still haven't gone so it is possible other people will turn up. I don't know if we stop anywhere en route. Fuck it, worst case is I move back.Anyway, pulling out now and so far I'm golden.

As getting on ticket checking bloke asked how long I had been in Argentina (not just making conversation). I wonder why it matters to them. Maybe if I had overstayed my visa it would somehow come back on them, but then again he didn't check my passport so I could have lied if I'd overstayed and so I am still a bit unclear. Doesn't really matter I guess.

1414 Been through Argentinian border control, back on bus waiting to cross no man's land into Chile. No problems though as always paranoid I had been given a bit of paper on entering country which had lost; I hadn't of course, and I knew it, there was no bit of paper. Followed a couple of 40something tourists of indeterminate nationality through but it wasn't too intricate. As always I expect entering to be harder than leaving, but it's OK. There's just something about border crossings which is always a tiny bit stressful and a tiny bit exciting.

1533 On bus waiting to drive off after entering Chile. Surprisingly long if scenic gap between two border posts, but I was getting seriously drowsy. Had to leave bags on raised bit at one side then they ran sniffer dog down as we queued for passport check etc. Queue a bit long and slow as only one counter but no trouble. Is a bit warm on bus, maybe that's partly why was drowsy.

1704 Pulling out of Osorno. Still got my double seat, not the one I booked half of. People got off here but no one seemed to get on. Place seems slightly shabby from brief glimpses from bus. Anyway, it's Puerto Montt for me today...

2208 At some cafe waiting for (of course) lomo a lo pobre. Hotel OK, walked it. Showered, surfed a bit. Came out about 930. Male owner (as opposed to his wife) outside having fag. Tells me all sorts of confusing shit in a mix of Spanish and English. Asked if was a restaurant nearby. He tells me its dangerous. Then questioning suggests it's not dangerous in the direction of the centre. Then he starts chuntering on about cars back. Turns out I think he means the taxi colectivos. But he gave me a three digit number I didn't memorise when he was first chuntering, then when I asked for the number again he said 3. And also gave me some jawbreaker of a name. What it is the name of I don't know. He kept going on about a parallel street (in English). What the fuck *about* the parallel street I don't know. I am consequently in a state of palpitating funk. There were a couple of inoffensive but still dogs on walk in. I also suspect there is no such thing as an ordinary taxi here, and no fucking way do I want to try handling a colectivo. I'm likely to end up stranded in the arse end of nowhere without a clue how to get anywhere.

When I came in this cafe waitress sort of asked me what I wanted before I sat down. I had checked menu outside but surely she didn't expect me to order. I asked if I could sit down. This is probably just because I'm on fucking hot bricks. I thought I might have food and a beer or two and that plus laziness is why I didn't come out earlier (it has sort of only just get dark).

I was thinking about staying here a third night given I didn't really get to do anything today but if I can't even go out at night I might fuck off. Super unhappy.

Bloke did say when questioned it was safe to walk back but not v confident. He even came out onto street with me, though frankly not sure what he showed me if anything.

0508 Back at hotel (have cleaned teeth already, in bed). That was an odd but good night. I am tempted to write up now but it can wait, I should get to bed. I am pleasantly not pissed despite having had a few beers. Anyway, sleep. I probably will ask about staying here another night, even if I don't go out tomorrow night I would like to see the sights and tonight shows the place isn't too dangerous (while I am advised a certain caution is required). Sleep.