Santiago, Sunday

1358 Didn't get up til about midday, had bad dreams for some reason. Bit slack but in a sense good to take advantage today since I have to check out tomorrow morning. Going to go out (I know where but can't remember name, will mention it later) in a bit but thought would try to Skype parents first and no answer so will hang round bit more.

Finally forced into wiping camera lens on some nylony bit of clothing as specks on lens are spoiling a few photos. One bit of dirt was quite stuck on and had to dislodged with fingernail. Took some daytime photos off balcony as test and in case not already done, fingers crossed I have therefore not scratched the lens as they look OK.

1722 At some cafe near Bellas Artes metro. Went to Cerro Santa Lucia, then being accosted by a chap who gave me lots of tourist advice on street afterwards and who claimed to be a student of anthropoligy (who I gave a handful of change probably out of manufactured feeling I should reward him for his time) and who told me the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes was free today I went over there. I had been before - I remember the main hall - but it was pretty good, interesting to see a banner which had been displayed in a protest against the military dictatorship in Trafalgar Square in 1974.

Place is La Vuelta Resto-Bar. I am not getting any attention from any waiters.

1735 Going to try Pastel de Choclo, if I hate it I can always eat something else later.

1817 Not quite what I expected but not bad, and surprisingly filling. Not something I would want to eat all that often but glad I tried it.

1833 Got bill (I loitered a bit, service not that bad), 7300 plus suggested 700 tip. Not too bad if not mega cheap. Taking opportunity to break a 20k, then home via (if possible) chemist for sun cream and a shop for some water and possibly a snack for later.

1900 Got sun cream and drinks and some ice cream (lardy, but couldn't pass up opportunity while I still have a fridge/freezer, do wonder if should have made more of it, still) at place next to flat, since I learned yday I should tip the person who puts stuff in plastic bags there wasn't one in there, probably a first. This was not the other supermarket across the road, the one on same side as flat. They had Estrechez de Corazon playing most of the time I was in there.

Wrt to something I wondered on day I arrived, there *is* a floor 13 in this building.

0132 Should be moving towards bed soonish. Bummed around in flat all night, in some ways a waste but nice views over city and it being Sunday night no enormous lure to go out and in a very real sense it seems reasonable to enjoy this relative luxury while I have it. Have uploaded some more photos and done one or two minor chores. Checkout is midday but since it is 'nice' to be in the flat and I have half a pomelo in the fridge to eat tomorrow and I perhaps need to do a small bit of washing up would be good if can be up by about 10. We'll see I guess...

0228 In bed. Not too bad an effort I think.

Santiago, Saturday

1641 Only just left flat, been shockingly lazy but meh, I suppose if I'm enjoying myself it's OK not to be haring around. Woke up about 10-11 feeling bit rough but not too bad, actually got up more like 12. Off to Quinta Normal.

0414 Bed. Not a bad night.

Santiago, Friday

1425 Fucking hell. I'm at the fucking bus terminal trying to buy a fucking ticket to fucking Vallenar. It is fucking queue central. I just spent at least half an hour in a queue only to be told 'go to window 6 over there' when I got to the front. It is fucking impossible to compare prices with this kind of queueing. That was a Pullman Bus window so I'm now in a huge queue to enquire at Tur Bus on principle. Northern Chile is fing expensive, I am going to Vallenar in part as I could get a room for 'only' £32 a night. Calama (for the mine) is 22 hours by bus which is a stretch, so want to break journey. I am hoping there is an overnight bus Mon 3rd but fuck knows. I have a freely cancellable reservation for Tues 4th night but not for Mon 3rd, if there is no overnight bus I might buy a ticket (given the hellish queues coming back is prob not an option) for Mon and hope. I emailed the mine tour people (guide book says to do it a week in advance this time of year) asking for a slot on thu or fri next week. If I don't get on I will probably bypass Calama as it too is super expensive. I looked into flying but on Mon Santiago-Calama would be 240 quidish and on Tue 170ish, not that Tue is any good. Given I can't assume I will get on tour esp not if got to Calama by Mon on plane, and it would be super expensive (and dull) to spend four or five nights there I think the broken bus journey is best option. This is all taking a little more time than I hoped but sod it. From Calama I hope to be able to get a bus across into Peru, but not looked into that yet.

Got up about midday when aroused from doze by towel delivery. Did research on mine and breaking journey then, also had some fruit/veg. Day seemed half gone but what can you do? Obviously buying this ticket will take all afternoon, esp if need to go back to flat immediately to look for hotel for Mon night. Came over here on Metro, this is where I arrived by bus other day but wasn't going to waste time walking it today, bit of a slog even by Metro TBH.

This queue is at least moving moderately fast. Nearly at front.

1444 Fucking hell. I asked if there was a bus in Spanish and the chap summoned an adjacent bloke to talk to me in English. Anyway, it was 36k - thirty six fucking thousand - for cama on a 235x bus arriving 0915 next morning. Could have had semicama but felt best not. Cama premium was 56kish! Pullman Bus had a price list up and their cama was 27kish iirc, but with the queues from hell and the uncertainty around affordable hotels if needed to stay in Vallenar Mon night I didn't want to risk leaving it while I queued up again for Pullman Bus only to maybe find they were full or had no night bus. Maybe I could have looked on their websites to check prices but I felt pushed for time and also assumed it would be easy to do so at terminal.

Oh, bus fnal dest is Copiapo, don't think is on ticket.

Been over to adjacent terminal (where I arrived) to check where left luggage is as given the 'office' non hotel aspect on my flat accom don't expect nwould be able to pick bag up at 10pm at night even if they would let me leaveit as office prob only open during normalish working hours.

Booked Spanish lesson for 8pm which was poss stupid. Anyway, feeling quite hacked off, bit irrationally much but anyway. Will go get food I think.

2217 At 'A Otra Puerta' on Pio Nono. Somewhat pricey at 2.5k for a 750mlish bottle of lager, but meh, there was a free table outside (which is rare) and it says something about live music so we will see. Minimum per person of 4.something, ffs. Needed cash machine as well as table so did circuit, Crazy Bar doesn't seem to have live music and all else being equal better to try somewhere else. I feel a touch self-conscious

Oh you fuckers. It is a 355ml bottle. I obviously didn't hear properly or assumed. And I've got to buy another one to meet their minimum. I'm not staying here after these. Cunts. Three fucking quid for a pissy little bottle. Robbing bastards.

I'm tempted to just neck it, but that would be stupid. If anything I'm more likely to get a table somewhere else a bit later as some of these drinkers probably piss off to a club around midnight. Seriously not happy about being taken for a ride on the beer.

I wouldn't have come to Pio Nono but it's fucking impossible to find any live music on web. Guide book mentioned some bar but apart from sounding poncy as fuck I checked their poncy-as-fuck website and they have two DJs on tonight.

While I'm having a fucking miserable time might as well write today up. Went for food (had a beer with it, since it was included) at Jerry's at bus terminal (definitely been there before, either in 2010 or 2011 before getting a bus out northwards), then as per plan went over to (from memory) Salvador Allende Solidarity Museum, but it's closed until April. Walked back to hotel to see bit more of city and see if serendipity would throw some gig for tonight at me, called in at National History Museum right by plaza de armas (this is the history of the nation, not *natural* history) which was OK though four of the rooms upstairs were shut and I wanted a (soft) drink and was feeling bit rushed by Spanish lesson but was OK.

Oh, got email from mine people while in metro stn, first avail slot is 17th feb! I can go on a standby list but I need to decide if I am still going to super-expensive Calama if I only have a chance (no idea if slim or not) of doing this mine tour. Sooner reply better but prob make no difference now it's the weekend. Guess prob no downside to going on list and just not turning up. May reply to them in a minute and then it can send when get home.

Prob will go to Calama esp if I can get an international bus from there, but I might just stay the one night. I've been before and it's OK but really nothing special and only the mine was drawing me back.

2258 A woman is singing inside, may be live but not sure. Not v rock-y so not enough to tempt me to stay after this second beer. May well not stay out mega late if mood doesn't improve. Quite enjoyed Spanish lesson, perhaps cos it gave me a chance to moan a bit about today's minor but persistent shittiness. ;-) I don't speak to anyone back home on 'phone' except parents and that's v different not to mention heavily dominated by seeing Z, who however is pretty well in appearance but essentially apparently on borrowed time.

2318 Getting bill. Bit dubious about getting table elsewhere but no big deal, I don't mind doing a circuit or two, something will probably turn up - I can always go inside, most people want to be outside - and if worst comes to worst just go home. Bill taking forever to turn up, but it all gives time for the clubbers to leave. Midnight is sort of early according to guide book but I think there will be a slight exodus starting around then.

2323 I asked for the bill before I made the previous entry. Am I still required to fucking tip? Sod it, going to ask again. Was same waiter, he pointed at another guy. I understood it didn't matter who you asked. Maybe he is going to get round to me eventually. Shitty.

2327 Getting seriously pissed off. I am sober, I am going to go in and ask for the bill.

2332 Paid, was 4532 with 10% tip, paid 4550. At some place oppositeish where some guys just left table, dunno if will get any service but meh. There was a woman singing inside but not interested (and not just cos of bill glitch). The first beer I had was actually only 1650 despite what it said on menu but still pricey for 355ml. This place is opposite Kiko Schop but as my table is some way off the actual frontage of this bar can't see the name.

Accosted waiter clearing a table (I always feel bad doing that) and it's 2k for a litre of Escudo so ordered that. Don't fancy chances of making any acquaintances tonight but you never know and I am not really in the mood; if it happens sweet, if not no problem at all.

2338 Chap just came and asked if he could take a stool from table (I have a chair, but two of the four seats are stools). I was slightly thrown as I couldn't *see* the stool he was pointing at on the opposite side of table to me, but I managed.

2341 All three other seats now gone. No sign of my beer yet, but at least it's cheap here.

2347 Fuck me, has it really been fifteen minutes since I asked for that beer? Perhaps my fault, though FFS how many ways can 'un litro de escudo por favor' be misinterpreted? Let's try again.

Just said 'disculpe' to some waiter and he held up a palm in a kind of 'patience' gesture. No idea if was same one as before or not. I must say things don't seem to be going well tonight. I'm definitely not pissed - as if they'd care, unless I was *seriously* drunk. OK, let's wait another 15 minutes and see what if anything happens.

2351 Waiter (a waiter, dunno which one) just came and asked me what I want. They don't have Escudo (out of stock? putting language issues aside, I see other people have litre bottles of Escudo on their tables), but a litre of Cristal is apparently 1500. Have ordered that but won't be astounded if I get a 300ml bottle after all, that would be totally in keeping with tonight's vibe.

0002 Fan fucking tastic. Some woman just came over. Despite the fact there are no more seats at this table, I think she wants

0106 OK, I misinterpreted, she was inviting me to join her and her three friends. They just left, we had a nice chat (mostly in  Spanish). Turns out this is a gay bar, being outside and no one being overly affectionate and no rainbow flag I didn't notice. Will finish this beer and try somewhere else on this street.

Got bill before finishing, 2.5k but maybe I mishead, still ok, made it 3k.

0113 OK, now at Crazy Bar (outside), not because I particularly wanted to come here but you know, old assocations and there was a table free so WTF. Having a litre of Escudo, may have another after but play it by ear. I thought that woman wanted my table instead of inviting me over, hence earlier annoyance; to be fair I did wonder if she was inviting me over but with the linguistic uncertainty I assumed the contrary. She and one of her friends spoke a little English which eked my Spanish out nicely. No sounds of karaoke or live band (tho lack of musical instruments on stage visible through window earlier meant already suspected latter) from inside so no harm being outside. Already vastly exceeded my socialising expectations tonight so still not desperate to meet anyone but if anyone does care to speak to me obviously cool with that and not pissed yet so it would be OK.

0130 Music coming from inside which sounds as if might be live. I asked chap on door and is 3k to enter, which is fine, but I can't take my litre of beer in, and there is a sign which I misinterpreted before saying they don't sell litres of beer inside. This seems a bit silly, and I also don't fancy paying through the nose for smaller quantities of beer. I guess I am going to finish this beer outside anyway - damn well not so desperate I am going to leave a nearly full bottle - and see how I feel after and if there is still music. By that point I won't want much more (at least, not rapidly) so if I have to pay more it's not so bad, but maybe the music will be off by then. Vamos a ver. To be honest I can hear it well outside and while nicely rock-ish it's not insane and with the smoking ban loads of people are ouside. I do find this 'no litres inside' thing a bit crazy though. I hope I can still go in for a piss, but fortunately had one at the gay bar so can wait until I finish this before mulling that aspect over.

0141 Just went for irrationally needed piss and to case inside out. Is indeed a band. Tables free or could sit at bar. Got free shower from some not quite clear sprinklery quality at urinal, also a v drunk guy in corner half drooling and half vomiting. Might go in after this litre but not rushing, getting pissed would not help and not super bothered.

0221 Just went and asked the guy on the door what time the live music stopped and didn't understand a word he said, but given the time might suspect not much later. Seems a bit of a shame but I might fuck off, unless my terminal visit to the bog (and maybe asking someone inside) suggests otherwise. Is already quite late and want to be fresh for tomorrow. I might walk home though. Actually that sounds good. Given legal bars shut at 4 probably not likely to be much longer. Chap just came up to me, said 'una mas' and disappeared immediately. Hope he is not fetching me another beer. Didn't realise so late but of course that is cool in its way. Been mulling oddly over 'shipping out' and thinking should send an appreciative email to author, must be pissed.

0235 Spoke to waiter, he said music til 330, paid outside bill and 3k to come in and now inside. Karaoke lyrics on screen which do not match the music playing. Not at all sure what's going on but meh. Queue for bogs as old woman cleaning up.

0242 Front and back bars obviously different, karaoke up front. Asked to sing Por Que No Se Van. Paid 2k for schop. Meh, not as if any reason to be embarassed.

0246 Sung. Seemed a bit shorter than thought but meh, did it. Oddly proud. Some people made supportive gestures.

0330 We've had some karaoke in Spanish and English but seems to have ended now in favour of live band at back. Don't feel pissed but the thing about karaoke is you end up reading lyrics on screen and I had a bit of double vision. While not rushing home I am being a smidge cautious. No, we seem to have more karaoke now, I do think the double music sources is a bit imprudent but meh, if they can live with it so can I.

0334 Certain closing up table gathering by staff. Honestly I'd half love to bit invited on to an after hours (unlikely, I feel) and I'd half love to just go home, so as to be fresh for tomorrow.

0339 I do feel just a smidge - no more - drunk and the double vision on the lyrics doesn't help. In some ways fuck invitations, I want to see the night out. On other hands, I don't want to be knackered tomorrow night so sticking on here is arguably a bit silly. If I had met after hours friends I'd probably have done so already. But I do hate to leave before thrown out. Tension!

Woo, Juan Gabriel's Querida now. But it changes nothing. If I had nothing planned tomorrow night would definitely stick on regardless of possibilities. As it is I feel possibilities are slim and don't want to fuck tomorrow night over for them but also don't want to pass them up.

0344 OK, I am leaning strongly to just leaving. It grates to leave any kind of party semi-sober but tomorrow night is important and this isn't great, even if they are doing a La Ley song I half recognise. If I could gorge on fried chicken on  way home would seal the deal. Maybe I will walk home, it might help compromise and re tomorrow walking home is still sobering up. More than half of this beer left but yeh, I'm mature enough to leave it. Totally sober enough to stay out but it's not fun enough to compromise tomorrow over. Doubt will get any food on way home but will still try to walk back, slightly bad for tiredness but only slightly.

0355 At place had fries Wed night, woman who took my order speaks basic English, hope am getting a plain hamburger and fries for 3k. (I didn't speak English to her, she obviously decided to pick up on my foreignness.) I should prob just get cab home but meh. Tables in other bars still busy as left but a) I think 4am closing these places is legal requirement b) given want to be fresh tomorrow silly to stick on, also being just a smidge (no false anti-exaggeration) pissed even were it possible not ideal to try for another beer in a random bar.

0425 At flat. Walk home totally cool, and irrationally or not felt as safe and like walking home through City back home. May book a night in Calama before bed but let's see.

0436 OK, I have reserved a room (private, shared bathroom) for the two nights 6th and 7th in Calama for £16/night. So assuming I can get an overnight bus from Vallenar on the night of the fifth, I am semi-laughing. I can turn up at the mine office on both sixth (admittedly a bit strung out post bus, unless I can check in early) and seventh, and I can try to book a bus on to Peru when I arrive, so all hunky dory. This robs Calama of the 'it's fucking expensive' aspect which had shitted me up. If I can 't get on the mine tour now, no big deal. Calama is I think [not checked) a big bus hub so prob great place to try to book international bus, and if it isn't I can go on from there to Iquique or Arica and cross border from there.

0449 OK, so that's a nice conclusion to a day which started shit and improved. I really need to be sound tomorrow, in bed now so fingers crossed for sleep.

Santiago, Thursday

1551 Only left flat ten mins ago, woken up about 1030 by the two women from office bringing me new towels, got up about 12 and dithered around the flat heavily. Sort of relaxing but obviously sort of waste of time. In some strange restaurant with no menu, no water, no diet coke, having chicken with rice because that is what they told me when I asked for the menu, and a bottle of peach nectar. Half regretting this but WTF.

1614 Food not bad though not mega substantial and do feel bit hungry. 2500, made it 3k. Place is El Mismo, tho name very faded outside.

1752 Bought local SIM and came into Museo Chileno De Arte Precolombina. They shut at 6 and I only went in about 4:55 but think I saw most of it, if bit hurried, though I think I did miss some temporary exhibitions on the ground floor.

2130 Went back to flat, loitered, not sure about coming out as didn't want to drink too much. Anyway, quick web search for live music led to Lonely Planet website and I am at La Chimenea in Principe de Gales off Moneda. Walked here, maybe 25-30 mins. It's fing expensive - wasn't going to eat, but I do wonder if you have to (I didn't ask) and would like something so having lomo a lo pobre at a slightly high 8.2k but that is one of the cheaper options and most of food is a bit fancy for me. Anyway, the menu doesn't give the volume of the bottled beer but I bet they are 330ml, so the cheapest beer is draught Stella Artois at 2500 a half litre. So this is London prices, basically. The place itself is not too poncy but it's more restauranty (all tables) than the sort of gig venue I might have expected and would have preferred, though OTOH it is nonthreatening, except for the prices. Still, I will have a restrained evening and it's an experience and maybe tomorrow night I'll go somewhere cheaper or more lively or both if I can find somewhere and feel brave enough. It's not insanely, OMFG expensive, it's just pricey compared to eg Crazy Bar (and I assume most places on Pio Nono are similar). I do sort of wish I'd done more web searching but OTOH this is OK and how could I know what it was like without coming and I might have an amazing night. It has a bit of an unfortunate 'live jazz at Pizza Express' quality which is a big turn off for me, but I should put my prejudices aside.

You'd think they might run to giving me some bread at these prices. I have a dish of pico de gallo and a little plate with nothing on and a knife and fork and that's it. Oh, it was at least free to get in, tomorrow night there is a cover charge of 3kish.

2158 Food OK, steak tender if rather rarer than I generally prefer, though portion of fried onions decidedly small and possibly for the first time ever there was only one fried egg. But OK, as I say.

2219 Band setting up, I have a table facing stage and by luck it has only one chair so not occupying space someone else could be using.

At museum earlier was a plaque up about the Wayuu who  nowadays live in La Guajira Peninsula (Colombia/Venezuela). Apparently (this was in English as well as Spanish) even now they bury their dead, then disinter them, surgically remove the remaining flesh from the bones before placing the bones in somewhere or other (ie the bones are the 'valuable' bit). This is apparently a big family celebrationy kind of occasion. Yes, respect blah blah, and it clearly does no harm so my own pragmatic attitude is 'none of my business', but this freaks me out slightly when I picture the scene. I dread to think if there is video of it available, I am resisting the really-not-that-strong-because-I-think-it-would-turn-my-stomach urge to look.

2246 Band seem to be coming on. Got a second beer. Feeling a bit tired, which is a bit odd but still.

2344 Band either finished or on a break. Probably latter. They are good - though I don't know the word for the style of music - but I'm just not 'feeling it', I am inclined to get bill. Yes, jnust asked. Band might be packing up actually and quite a few people left even while band were on. 13500, 14850 with suggested 10% tip. Yes, they are packing up anyway. Not absolutely my cup of tea but not bad, as I say just not feeling it and now they've finished going home is a no brainer. Bit tired, be good to get up earlyish tomorrow, conserve my alcohol allowance for another night, etc. Inevitably going to be paying 15k, I suppose if I happen to take long enough to finish beer I may get change but they haven't even collected my 15k yet and it is only 150 extra which is nothing and while by no means stellar the service has been OK, it's just the place is fing pricey. Frankly not a great night but it has been OK and probably better from a long-term having memories and experiences perspective than just having a quiet night in.

Oh, band is La Color, one of them has a T-shirt with it on and that reminds me what it was from website/poster (ie this is not like me saying the band is AC/DC because one of them is wearing an AC/DC shirt).

V much a packing up atmosphere, anyway, let's swig last mouthful and walk home.

0012 Back at flat. Not (m)any bars etc on the route to La Chimenea anyway but fairly dead on way back. Streets by no means deserted (and not at all scary) but not v busy. Passed couple of 'girlie show' places (I think; didn't want to hang around to read the virtually identical scrolling LED signs), one on Plaza de Armas (which, incidentally, is being tarted up and the centre of it is all boarded up with solid wooden panels (ie not peer-through wire), that one offering a 'continuous show'. Not tempted. :-) Am sure eg Crazy Bar and Pio Nono generally probably in full swing but not looking for anything more tonight as per earlier. Let's move towards bed. City views from balcony quite nice, tried to take photos last night so not going to faff now, not sure how successful they were (think new camera only allows manual shutter speed settings of 1s upwards, which is bit of shame), may take some more another night.

Santiago, Wednesday

1207 Cool, I asked (not making a big deal about it) and they let me swap from 2313 on 23rd floor (ground is 1, dunno if there is a 13) to 2014 on 20th floor which does have a (narrow) balcony. Naturally I started to wonder if was better being an extra three floors up, but apart from the fact it's not a huge deal anyway, I think having the balcony and the attendant floor-to-ceiling glass doors more than compensate for being a bit lower. Location on side of building virtually same, there is another building whose roof dominates the view more from this lower height but also in part because having floor-ceiling glass makes it more obvious.

Been out to buy some fruit/veg and a big bottle of cold drink and some eggs which I hope to hard-boil to take advantage of luxury of fridge (and freezer) and small kitchen.

1938 Been working myself into a really worried state. Should I have gone out this afternoon instead of bumming around flat? Health worries. Etc. Anyway, let's go out now.

Valdivia to Santiago

Tue 2207 On bus, currently have downstairs to myself. No overhead rack for main bag but it fits under seat so tis OK. Phone being mega arsey and slow so have to reboot it, great use of power. Bus perfectly decent, like all cama, I have a single seat (no 6).

0830 Chucked off bus few mins ago. Been awake for last hour or so. Didn't sleep very well, I either had pins and needles in hands or dreamed I did. My knees hurt. How the fuck is that possible? But I did sleep. Anyway, some chap just asked me someting incomprehensible so let's move. Hotel is about 4km from here, obviously loads of time to walk but want to see if can buy card for metro anyway. Battery 36%. Oh, huge gap in GPS track, fuck knows what's wrong with fucking phone. Maybe not its fault. Anyway.

0942 At "18 Restaurant" somewhere probably on Libertador. Got bip card at station then decided to walk to hotel; let's at least try to drop the bag off. Stopped here primarily to use bog but food also welcome. Was going to have grilled chicken & rice but they are only doing breakfast which means sandwiches; after quizzing waitress that it really doesn't have any other crap, getting 'churrasco solo' ie beef sandwich with nothing else. Oddly the menu uses Spanish names for food items then describes them in English only. It also says stuff like 'served with rice or pure, french fries 600 extra' in English only. Odd.

Sandwich here, bit small and sorry looking for the money but meh, it's at least as advertised.

1022 Loitered, aided by lack of staff attn. Got bill, 3910 which is insane for what it is and this is not a fancy place but can't be helped. Tipping approx 500, anyway, off.

1109 OK, I am in the apartment, which is nice. I am a bit hacked off that there is no balcony; I specifically chose this place because it said it had one. I don't know whether to mention this or not; it doesn't look like anything in the building has a balcony, maybe I will just make a quiet 'please fix the listing' complaint to expedia. The wifi seems to work and they let me in early which in some sense compensates. None of the other places were obviously better than this, and it did also have one of the better locations (I would have preferred Inmoba, partly for location, but this is good too, just a block from plaza de armas).

Valdivia, Tuesday

1235 At cheap restaurant Super Gavila, being a fat bastard and having churrasco a lo pobre - 3800 with a diet coke, you pay up front and hand ticket in. Will leave tip on table. Could have had chicken & rice but meh.

Bought and drank 1.5 litre bottle citrus drink earlier so as to avoid feeling thirsty when having meal, the service in the pharmacy I bought it in was ultra slow. It was a take a ticket system, I honestly think I might have been waiting half an hour for them to serve about 10 people ahead of me.

Got up super last minute (about 1045) but OK, left bag at hotel.

1328 Food not bad, lingered hugely over coke, feel bit bloated. Leaving 600 tip, hope they have a bog here.

1348 There's a huge Foucault pendulum by the river. Currently swinging on bearing 339 degrees. Let's see what it shows if (most likely) I come past later. I saw the building housing it yesterday but didn't notice the pendulum somehow.

1424 Pendulum now at 334 degrees. Wandered, saw sealions etc. Hanging around in part to see if can get ticket to do submarine tour when ticket office opens 3pm. If not may do some kind of hour long boat trip, let's see. Quite nice if bit dull, weather v sunny and warm, have put cream on but bit worried might burn head anyway, oh well.

1504 OK, queued up to buy ticket for submarine, managed to get in at 1730. Not sure exactly what to do in meantime but still. The psychological effect of ticket scarcity has made going into the submarine seem very desirable. ;-)

1509 Pendulum at 325.

1554 Wandered a bit, went past the little tower, at Moro Cafe Bar for cafe cortado and will use their bog before leaving. Was tempted to have a green tea but went for this lardier option.

1642 Finished coffee, quite good, also free open wifi so Skyped parents, getting bill then slash and will wander a bit before going back to submarine.

Bill 1500, made it 1700, fk knows if that's OK.

1707 Pendulum at 303.

1728 Lurking by submarine. Was at Hostal San Francisco here BTW.

1819 Pendulum at 289. Will write about submarine later. Bit miffed to see GPS failed to lock since about 4pm so my GPS track will have a big gap. Meh, can't be helped. Screwed around a bit with phone and it seems to be working again now.

1948 At Cafe Moro again. Getting jittery (so obviously a coffee will help!). Anyway, a coffee should fill time until I go back to hotel at 9 to get bag and that gives me a bit over an hour hanging around at the bus terminal but that's not too bad. Went for slash before acquiring table, no one said anything. Got some fruit and veg at supermarket earlier, didn't see the weighing station so after waiting in interminable queue at checkout had to go back to get stuff weighed then queue again. But it's not as if I'm in a huge hurry really. Got some peanuts and water as well (for bus).

Wondering if I should have done the brewery tour or gone there to sample the beers (not necessarily today) but I wasn't desperate, it might be silly (in fact I think it is) but guide book says they give you a glass on the tour and I didn't want to have to leave it behind or lug it round with me for next two months. Also somehow the idea of going to the apparently heaving bar on my own and drinking during the day didn't appeal. I guess I'm leery of daytime drinking (not counting the odd one with lunch etc, not that I do that much), it's different when you don't just go to bed after.

2003 OK, I'll have a small cafe cortado then, despite definitely asking for a 'normal'. Could have argued but maybe I got it wrong, though frankly I'm fairly sure they did. Was going to tip 500 this time but not going to now. Oh well.

Getting a serious mental malaise on. I feel super dislocated and even if nothing goes wrong I am not looking forward to being left hanging around, almost certainly with my bag, til 3pm tomorrow. I can tell I'm feeling bad (as if I didn't already know) because my discontent over this small coffee is simmering, even though I know it doesn't really matter.

2035 Fuck it, I can't hang on here any more, will get bill, have another slash for look then bus terminal via hotel, might as well lurk there.

2113 At terminal. Battery 57%, do have spare but hope not to need it. Not sure Nook is well charged, it warned (at 20% iirc) on bus in here and I only gave it a brief charge off netbook (not mains adaptor) last night. Still, not the end of the world if can't read anything except paperback, though hope it won't come to that.

Looking at ticket see the official price is 44.9k, the 18.9k is a promotion. You'd think they might have advertised this, it was sheer luck I asked that company (Condorbus).