Arequipa, Monday

1446 At Chifa Taiyuan for chaufo con pollo. Wrote a few paragraphs earlier but lost. Got up about 11 but milled round in room til about 1. Bought ticket for Cusco for tonight, have to change voucher for tkt at terminal which is a faff but less so than schlepping over there and back just to buy tkt. Got to be there 730 for 830 bus and doubtless have to arrive super early to allow for uncertainty re taxi; will ask hotel to call me one but can't assume they will. Bit of a waste to have paid for room tonight and not use it but not big deal. Went back to hotel after buying tkt and booked hotel in Cusco for three nights, may extend but don't want to overcommit to start with esp if may want to overnight near Macchu Picchu (sp). Come out now for food, will then perhaps wander to some park near the convent, not getting too hung up on seeing anything specific. Will get fruit and go back and pack 430-5ish.

1952 At terminal. Not a happy bunny.

Walked up to Puente Grau after food but couldn't really bring myself to do anything else with pre-departure jitters, went back to hotel. Surfed a bit then packed (didn't want to). About 630 went out of room and yay, as I had noticed 20 mins earlier but hoped would change, owners obvously gone out as stairway to office locked off. Simultaneously a reminder came up on my phone about a loose SD card (well, in a plastic case) in my bag. I suddently remembered not seeing it when packing and wondered if had dropped out. Went back into room in joint panic over that and taxi and tore bag apart and searched floor (shining torch under beds etc) and completely failed to find that SD card (which had all first day and a bit of second day of Colca Canyon tour on). Also thinking about having to get taxi off street and risk of being mugged as a result. Losing the plot at this point. About 645 going on 7 I repacked and have probably managed to lose something else as a result of all that frenzied searching and legged it out to plaza (bag contains 2 litres water just to make it heavier). Got a taxi from recommended firm from web and it was OK but was nervous. Locked both back doors as advised by someone met Sat night. Fare quoted was 7 but paid 10.

I can only hope that SD card is languishing somewhere in my bag inside something else when I have time to unpack carefully.

Anyway, at terminal queued for probably 20-30 mins to get voucher converted to ticket. I could swear one woman pushed in front of me and then two tourists behind me asked if they could jump the queue as their bus went in 20 mins (at 8, mine 830) and tho I dithered I let them.

Because I feel compelled to follow advice from web (or gide book?) about not taking valuables in hand luggage I have had to put my main bag in 'boot'. Here you check it in airport style instead of handing it in when you get on bus. Fortunately not too much of queue for that. Then had to queue again, fortunately quick moving, to pay the PEN2 terminal departure tax. Then I thought I needed a shit so paid PEN0.50 for the bog and of course I didn't. And now I have no idea where to board the bus, there are two departure gates but no screens or any indication on ticket.

Oh, and although I got an aisle seat I am in a double not a single, I think. Didn't get to see seat plan when bought tkt but suspect bus nearly full as was booking late.

Most of the shit has resolved itself but not happy about losing those photos and still in a bad mood from all the fucking stress so far. Not just the taxi, ticket queue was so slow was worried would miss some deadline for checking bag in etc.

2015 OK. I just queued up again to ask where the bus went - some cunt behind me couldn't wait *two seconds* while the fuckers ahead of me left the counter before I started speaking to the woman on the desk and (probably) asked if I was waiting to buy tickets, but I'm so hacked off I couldn't understand and waved him ahead. Anyway, it's neither of the departure gates, a chap (who said he was called Steven as well, meh, dubious) checked my passport (so had to dredge out hidden belt) and then let me through into this lounge area behind desk. In theory I guess this is nice but I had no fucking idea it was here and I'm still worried I'm going to miss the bus as there is no screen and fuck knows how many buses they run. Anyway, on the upside, I discovered the missing SD card in my hidden belt, so that's something and once eg I get to Cusco and am safely in the hotel everything will be OK again.

2021 OK, on bus, it was waiting outside lounge. Ticket checked twice but I guess that's OK. Asked about security when bought ticket, woman at travel agency said the direct buses which don't pick up random people en route are safer, and while I don't much like being checked up on etc I am worried enough about security that I guess it's good if they are checking the tickets to be sure who gets on. Presumably potential robbers aren't willing to just purchase a ticket. Anyway. I am sort of recovering my equilibrium and let's crank some HMHB up and try to relax. Will send this (or at least leave it in outbox) and start new entry for journey, tho prob not write much given we arrive at 6am. Oh, I am travelling with Cruz del Sur and modulo all the queueing none of this reflects badly on their service (so far). I was staying at Hostel Arequipa, Consuelo 606, and apart from them not being there all the time the place was cheap and reasonably comfortable and generally OK. Shared bathroom but never saw any other guests (tho oddly sometimes had people outside waiting to be let in on bell, but never saw anyone inside). Place in Cusco is private bathroom but still cheap, 29 quid for three nights.

Arequipa, Sunday

1853 At El Colorado for quarter chicken and chips. Alarm at 3pm then went back to sleep and only got up a bit before 6. Have come out for food then will go back for shower, I am I think meeting someone I met last night at Brujas at 10. Will go over and if I don't then no harm, will have early night Will write more on last night later.

Will probably stay here another night as don't really want to be going to Cusco tomorrow night if not had much sleep. When go back will see if can extend for another night, I just might 'discard' that night if I feel OK tomorrow morning and book a bus tomorrow morning for tomorrow night but we will see. Won't be a total waste as would at least then not be homeless during the day. In some sense this is wasting time but really I think it's just going with the flow and not sticking rigidly to a plan even when circumstances have changed. Be silly to 'spoil the fun' here by rushing off overly precipitately, and I certainly don't want to be knackered when I travel to Cusco.

1923 OK, paid for tomorrow night. Incidentally if didn't already say was at Hostal Le Prince in Tacna.

2205 At Brujas, managed to get seat at bar, quite busy. Richard Cheese's "Creep" is queued up on the TV showing the playlist. Not really in mood for being out tbh but did say to Gloria this morning would be here at 10 so I am. Don't see her. May not stay out v late if no one turns up.

Streets bit dead round hostel but was OK, bit concerned about going home but we'll have to see.

2343 Nearly finished second beer, will go after this. Bit of chat with Reina (woman who runs place) but I have been reading on phone, I just don't really want to make the effort to strike up conversation tonight (I sated my appetite for company last night), as said earlier am here because I said I would be. No point forcing things when I'm not in the mood. Not tired as such but bit worried about walk home and all in all best not to push it.

By no means dead or deserted in here but not rammed and people keep drifting out.

0002 Back at hostel. No problems on walk back though was a bit on the alert (possibly pointless, not sure). Gave 20 when paid for the two beers (bill 14) and didn't wait for change.

Oh, there were one or two people in plaza. Cathedral v attractively lit up.

Arequipa, Saturday

2055 At Brujas. Sat at the bar, all tables (at least in front) occupied, besides might get into chat, might not, tis cool. Guidebook and web have shitted me up re personal safety late (11pm-midnight) and apparently fake taxis where other people get in and rob you are the common scam. I have names of couple of safe firms (but 'beware of fakes'!) but frankly I will prob try to go home by about midnight and I am inclining towards walking. Apart from my peace of mind the only valuable posession on me is my phone. My uninformed-but-what-else-to-go-on opinion suggests that is the lower risk strategy.

This taxi risk strikes at the very core of my travel drinking strategy. By sound of it it's not as bad as Mexico City but still.

Oh, various places offer the dynamite tip 'get your hotel to book you a taxi'. Because naturally people only ever need taxis *out* from the hotel, or they just leave the taxi on the meter outside all night. FFS.

It's PEN7 for a 620ml bottle of Ariquepeña. Not tipped as paying as I go, whether need to or not I don't know. May leave tip on bar, we will see. Feel smidge awkward sat here at bar but sod it, no one cares.

2202 Towards end of second beer. Busy in here now. Some oldish chap sat solo next to me at bar, some other people chatting. Was feeling bit edgy but it's going. Probably not for the best to be reading Dashiell Hammett when I have this 'wild west' feeling from the fucking advice. But really it's OK, it feels OK in here and not deeply worried about getting home. Will do my best to try to get a hostel in Cuzco a nice short walk from bars. Prob be an overnight bus but will see tomorrow, may try tour operators rather than going over to bus terminal, they seem to offer bus tickets and I can pump them re advice. Get impression from web night buses are significantly safer than they used to be. And even risky things often turn out OK, of course. My peace of mind is highly valuable but not so valuable it's worth hiding away forever to protect, and I'm unlikely to lose anything else whatever happens.

2212 Don't Stop The Party playing. Reminds me of Playa de Carmen last February. Que no pare la fiesta!

2222 Apart from Union flag (yeah, bowing to the pedants) they also have a Greene King Abbot Ale towel stuck up on wall. Place seems to be emptying slightly. Given 5am start and slight nerves re walk home I don't think I am haring off elsewhere, let's see how the night goes here. Besides in 2010 I left here and came back as better than other places I found.

0920 OK I guess that was a cool night but I am knackered. I think I will stay here an extra night but anyway let's go to bed and see how it goes.

Colca Canyon tour, Saturday

Fri 2157 In bed but naturally not sleeping. A couple of 'look on the bright side' things for the post-trip living-in-London phase. Good things about that:
- not having to juggle with bottles of water when I clean my teeth
- not having to keep my toothbrush, toothpaste and floss in a slightly damp, icky plastic bag

(I deliberately do not use a 'proper' toiletries bag as I know it would just get ultra-disgusting yet I'd feel obliged to keep using it instead of throwing it away. I use a plastic bag on grounds of easy disposability and replacement. Yet I always seem to gravitate to using the nice resealable transparent airport security plastic bags, and those are sufficiently scarce and precious that I tend not to disguard them too easily. It's *still* better than a proper plastic or cloth toiletries bag, but I am sure I could do better.)

0540 FFS. I drag myself out of bed and clean my teeth (additional look-on-the-bright-side for being back in London - just having a cleanish towel in the bathroom to dry hands on without thinking about it) and no one else is up for breakfast yet despite me being ten minutes late. It's freezing. I am tempted to put my long-sleeved shirt on between T-shirt and jacket - I have it in my daypack for just such an eventuality. Fuck it, I see no food on the table yet, let's.

Oh, I woke up about 0230 with serious 'slept on it and now it's gone to sleep and tingles like a bastard and oh shit is it paralysed' feeling in left arm. Tis OK and thinking about it I used to get this quite often but this is first time for ages.

0555 OK, had two bread roll things (funny sort of bread) with probably margarine and having cup of anis tea. About 7-8 people here. Still feeling cold. Didn't expect sumptuous breakfast but still.

So cold in room swimming shorts which had left on back of chair had not dried properly overnight. No big deal, they weren't sopping wet to start with (I squeezed them out after getting changing) and just tied back in carrier bag but still.

Despite no wifi, phone has decided to try to download an update to one of my apps so I can have the animated 'download in progress' icon in status bar all day; there is no way to kill this afaict. Crap.

0616 On bus. Still bit cold. Daypack seems super light and small but it's cos swimming gear and towel and long-sleeved shirt not in there today, plus I have consumed a good chunk of the water in there.

0652 In some small town, just leaving after 10-15 mins in square. Old women with tame eagles and llamas for photos, some kids dancing round fountain before school (ffs, it's quarter to seven, I hope the poor sods are volunteers). Went in church briefly. Frankly felt a bit too long here - it's so touristy it hurts - yet also since not sure exactly how long we have I rushed round church instead of dragging it out. Couldn't bring myself to hand a couple of sols to old woman to stroke llama or whatever it was, felt sort of patronising, yet not paying a fucking fortune for privilege. Not *that* fussed about it.

Think place was Yanqué.

0716 Just stopped briefly by side of road, v nice views over valley (though no river at this point), still, v cool. Two old women, one with llama one with alpaca, guide said again iirc one is multicoloured other is all one colour but right at this moment can't remember which, think I had it right yesterday.

0750 Just finished 10-15 min stop some other small town. Had glass of freshly blended fruit which didn't catch name of but looks a bit like kiwi fruit, the fruit itself is spherical and covered with small spines which they have to take off. It is same fruit as in a colca sour, though with amazing restraint I just had the fruit blended with water not a colca sour.

Dog I will call a beagle but f knows wandering round with horribly red eyes, wonder if it was blind. Also a beggar chap, I mean, come on, surely you can come up with some schtick, it's not as if the average tourist can be that demanding. Chap from tour offered to take my photo by church so wtf, I did, though doubtless squinting v badly as was facing sun. I do wonder if I 'should' be going out of my way to get myself into pictures, but ffs, I know what I look like and I just don't see the point, it's not like I have anything to prove (eg that I was here)

Sancayo is name of fruit, modulo spelling, guide is telling us.

Guide just gave me a bit of raw fruit, nice but bitter. ISTR the guy mixed sugar in with it when blending the drink.

0958 Back on bus, we walked along part of a trail alongside canyon to lookout point. V impressive views, not many condors however.

1037 We are leaving some other lookout point can't remember name of, but truly stunning view and also good chance to see a condor flying. Tho is hot hot hot and sunny this is the rainy season and apparently they don't fly so much now. Jul-Sep is peak condor spotting season.

1057 Another lookout nearby, also excellent views.

1224 Buffet lunch at different place in Chivay. Great ceviche de trucha (something I could never order from a menu, as I'd worry it would be mixed with some foul sauce), stuffed peppers too. I'm full. 28, wonder if should tip but I didn't yday so meh.

1250 Weather has changed, overcast and spitting slightly. Not complaining, once get back on bus be much more comfortable, and I don't think we are doing any more sightseeing so we got the good weather for that this morning. Could get on bus now but don't see any point cramping myself up even slightly any earlier than necessary. Not that cramped but it's not as spacious as regular semi-cama on long distance buses. Tis OK, it's only about 3h to Arequipa and we will probably stop somwhere for bog en route. I took advantage of the surprisingly nice outdoor bogs at restaurant just now.

1621 Back at hostel. Spoke to owner chap about coming in late, he said it's fine, he won't bolt door but I should when I come in.

Slept part way on bus, think other people did too. Bit hot but OK, sun came back out and although people kept opening and closing window above my seat in the end it stayed shut.

Colca Canyon tour, Friday

0800 Dragged myself out of bed 0745, managed to just get ready in time, currently lurking inside hostel door. Not sure if any other guests, I keep hearing things but never see anyone.

Feel bit knackered but not too bad, woke up independent of any alarms about 0630 then went back to sleep and drowsed/snoozed on alarms from about 0715. Bit of rush to dash sunscreen on and clean teeth and go to bog but managed it.

Probably not get to write much of this during day but you never know.

Have stuff for today in daypack, rest locked up in main bag, on basis they may want to shove that on roof or in boot or whatever. I half hope we get to our hotel before we do the thermal baths as can then drop off my most theft-sensitive items at hotel, but we'll see.

Didn't get to sleep til maybe 0130 or so despite being tired but that's life. Finished Arthur C Clarke's Garden of Rama which was good but ending a bit annoying. I nearly always think that about books though.

Hope I get a half decent seat on bus and it's not too rammed. I console myself with the thought not individual stint on it should be too long, I think here to Chivay is 'only' about three hours and except possibly on the way back I think we would probably stop off at least briefly several times during that kind of journey. Fingers crossed anyway. Not too worried about altitude right now, this is relatively gentle and I've done everything I can to help myself so if it goes wrong it goes wrong. (It could, ISTR one woman had problems after we drove from San Pedro de Atacama to El Tatio geysers, which is approximately the same as this.)

It's 0810.

0817 Not picked up yet. Always hate this pre-tour wait, especially when staying in obscure hostels. Never gone wrong or been scammed yet, but still, always a first time.

0827 Still waiting.

0833 Still waiting. Apropos of nothing, when went up to 'reception' first time yday and no one was there, there were several boxes of 'video recording glasses' lying around. They looked like cheap sunglasses but presumably have a little video camera in them. I didn't know this existed as a consumer thing outside Google Glass, though I suppose it's hardly surprising now I think about it.

0840 Still waiting.

0844 Still waiting. Taxi just went past with ad for my tour company on side, for second wondered if it was here to pick me up and take me to join the bus. I have been picked up way later than this before so not deeply worried but still, would be good to get the uncertainty resolved.

0859 Still waiting. Starting to doubt a little they are going to turn up. But I can hardly risk charging off to their shop in Plaza de Armas even though only about 5 mins away as I might then miss being picked up. This is not so late it's totally implausible, eg the SpDA pickup was iirc an hour late and that was more time critical as we were racing against dawn. Not sure what I will do re staying another day to do this tour tomorrow if they don't turn up. I might go and see if I can find and persuade hostel chap to call them in a bit but don't really want to.

0906 Just been picked up, no one else on bus yet...

0911 OK, if I understand correctly we are now waiting somewhere in town for another bus to turn up and I will change to that one. Fingers crossed for a half decent seat. Not likely to keep up this as-it-happens account of these rivetting events once other people around but who knows?

0938 OK, we are on a big slightly cramped coach, I estimate 32ish seats, all full, I was last on but meh. Have window seat which is sort of good sort of bad. Tour guide made us all introduce ourselves, stupid re names but interesting re where from. Vast bulk are Peruvian, nearly all those from Lima, one from Peru and quite a few Ariquepeños. A few French, one Dutch chap and think I am only Brit, no US or Canadians. We stopped at a small shop, guide says we don't spend enough time at altitude to get sick, is largely psychological, breathe through nose as gets more oxygen to brain, have glucose (eg chocolate), chew coca leaves. We have stopped at a shop, bought small bar of chocolate and some coca leaves. Not sure latter do any good but I never tried them properly before so want them for the experience anyway - I never bought any but on mine tour in Potosi someone gave me some, but I didn't realise you were supposed to chew them with a little piece of iirc alkali. Not trying them now as nowhere to spit in bus, but may help psychologically if have them later if do feel funny.

Guide says everything in Spanish then English. Quite good in way as I get to check my understanding. She speaks pretty clearly, I get 90%+ of what she says. Will guzzle chocolate now.

0958 Guide just explained how to chew leaves, so having a go. Pretty much as I recalled but hadn't done, four or five leaves with a small bit of the 'stone' broken off and wrapped in the middle, chewed for maybe an hour. There are different kinds of 'stone', but some are prepared from ash, basically I think it is an alkali but she didn't say that, apparently it speeds up the effects.

She didn't say but I recall the mine tour guide in Potosi saying it takes something like a cubic metre (or was it a kilogram? a lot, anyway) of leaves to make a gram of cocaine.

1009 Dunno if I overchewed or didn't put enough in but those leaves have largely disintegrated in mouth. May swallow remaining dregs as I must have swallowed the rest in passing. I think guide said it's harmless to do so.

1013 Yeah, as I continued to chew they sort of naturally got swallowed. We just passed Jura (sp) cement factory which makes cement out of the surrounding volcanic ash from eruption in iirc 1600. Also 11km off was the naturally carbonated Socobani (sp!) spring.

1112 A single track railway runs roughly parallel to road. Guide says it is from Arequipa to Puno & Cusco. Apparently today it only carries minerals to/from Arequipa, though there is a passenger service between Puno & Cusco. I am not intending to go to Puno on this trip, I have been there, I didn't like it very much and while I might well return at some point I see no need to waste time going there on this trip, I am almost certainly going on to Cusco from Arequipa, so I will go by bus.

1127 We just got off briefly to take photo of some vicuñas in the distance. Could swear walking about made me a little bit breathless, no idea if psychological or not. GPS says altitude 4071m (tho I have read and also from experience believe GPS altitude is nowhere near as precise as its lat/long readings).

1151 We've stopped for '10 minutes' for coca tea (slightly herbaly but perfectly pleasant) and photos and toilets. Some sort of 'rock forest' if I heard guide correctly on one adjacent mountain. Walking around makes me feel just the tiniest bit breathless but nothing too serious.

Didn't really ned toilet but squeezed what I could out on 'go when you can' principle, only PEN1 on honour system so meh. Feeling relatively tranquil, may write more on that later, anyway, let's see.

1159 More like 20 mins, natch. Chap offered to take my photo, we spoke a very little in English, he is from Arequipa.

1317 We just stopped for 5 mins at some lookout at 4900m. You can see eight volcanoes from here which is cool but in a way because it's moderately flat and high they are all 'on the horizon' and don't loom as impressively as they would viewed against a valley. Still cool. Loads of little stone piles which are quite cool en masse, apparently originally built as offerings to gods, now traditional. Also a couple on mountain bikes, FFS! I could *maybe* handle a trek (quick flick through a leaflet I got other day half implies the walking is mostly downhill) but I know I could not do that, after what I did in Chiloe at sea level.

1430 Just guzzled three platefuls at lunch buffet. Thanks to not being a connosieur I can say it was great, particularly liked the stuffed peppers. Fairly healthy quantity of rice, salmon and vegetables consumed.

PEN30 for buffet (didn't tip; it's a buffet) and a coke zero, not too bad. It was 70 (as expected) for the park entry, this is differentially priced, Peruvians get in for 20 and though it wasn't on the sign I think the guide said 'South Americans' get in for 40. Meh, it's not so expensive and at least I'm not being continually gouged as in India.

Oh, I deliberately accumulated as many smallish bills as I could prior to this tour to avoid needing change, eg the guide collected the park entry fees off us and bought tickets so having exact money was handy.

1505 At hotel, basic but perfectly OK, pivate bathroom, twin beds. We are meeting in plaza at 1530 to go to thermal baths so will stop writing this and prepare to leave stuff behind etc.

1832 Back at hotel for second time. Meeting to go for dinner (with traditional dances; hmmmm) at 7 but will start write up now while have time on hands.

Decided to leave phone, camera, passport etc in hotel when we went to thermal baths as didn't think would be lockers. I was right. In reality most people took cameras and I half wish I had but the main thing is to experience this not take photos of it.

Went to plaza at 3ish or whenever, ended up walking round for a bit due to delays. Quite attractive if bit overcast and just smidge chilly. Atractive stone church with a cross 'shaved into' the greenery on the mountain behind it. Fountain. An Irish Pub.

Thermal baths adjacent to Colca river. Truly impressive views over the river from where we pulled up, a genuinely disturbing rope bridge to cross and a bit further along a stone bridge which went somewhere else. From the thermal baths great views of the valley sides and in the distance terraced slopes of the hills/mountains. Wish I had had camera but meh.

Was a sort of crude changing room (which I used tho lotsof people just seemed to change by the pools) but no lockers, left bag by pools like everyone else. Water v pleasantly warm, apparently it comes out of the ground at 89C, runs along the ground (probably been channeled) and enters the main square concrete bathing pool at one corner. It then trickles out of one adjacent and the diagonally opposite corner to feed two other pools. (Two further pools a bit further off presumably fed by some other means.) They said the water temperature in main pool was 39C, I could believe that but it varied with proximity to corner at which hot water entered; that was steaming, I didn't dare touch it but putting hand underwater near that corner you could feel the heat. Being in the water near that point there was a perceptible temp difference between one side of both and other. Came up to about my belly button standing which, new if useless fact, means it came up to my neck if I knelt down. Spent most time in that pool, though did try one of the two slightly cooler ones fed from first pool's run-off towards end.

We were perhaps there 1.5-2h, then came back to hotel. I grabbed my stuff and popped back out to take some photos of plaza, now back at room.

The 'rope' bridge was suspended from what looked like steel cables wrapped loosely in wool presumably for comfort, but it did sway seriously alarmingly and they didn't let too many people on it at once. It wasn't 'oh shit' scary but I didn't enjoy walking across it much, though I fully accept this is irrational.

Been intermittently chewing the coca leaves, dunno if they help but generally feel fine, perhaps just a touch short of breath on occasion but not sure, maybe what I think of as my sinuses ('above' nose) feel slightly funny for last hour or two but who knows. Quite like the taste when start chewing the leaves, though they never seem to last me very long.

We breakfast at 0530 tomorrow and leave at 0600. FFS! I did sort of know this and it will be OK but still.

Oh, ticket for thermal baths says Tambo Thermal Baths. Obviously no GPS trace there as didn't take phone.

There are tuktuks in the plaza; some just seem to do circuits. At least some appear to have enclosed sides, presumably in deference to the weather.

It has been overcast since we got to Chivay (where hotel is), there was a light sprinkle of rain while we were in the thermal baths but nothing more yet.

1940  At restaurant. Tempted to have beer but altitude, early start, nagging medical establishment and plans for tomorrow night all suggest no, so having a coke zero. Tourist menu is 20 PEN (+3 for drink), so having crema de champiñones to start then bistec de alpaca, having checked the latter is without sauce. Think I've had alpaca before (in Uyuni, 2010) but not sure. Not seen cuy on menu anywhere yet, guide book mentions some places in Arequipa but a) reluctant to seek it out specially b) reluctant to go to any recommended restaurant in guide book as I suspect will be wanky (the guide book raves about how Arequipa has great food blah blah; sod it, I have my little quirks re food - and the surroundings in which it is served - and frankly I'm happy with them, but anyway it does make me reluctant to take gushing advice from foodie-esque author).

Place is Restaurant Peña El Horno.

2030 Service dog slow. Finally got soup, had a bit but not raving - nothing wrong with it, but I'm not raving, never been that keen on thick soup (well, it depends, I guess) and it's a smidge cold due to copying lead of other woman who ordered it by waiting for other people to get food before giving up after 5-10 mins since obviously it would have been stone cold by time other people got food. I am not bothered, had some and I basically had it as the tourist menu made it 'free' compared to ordering just bistec de alpaca (assuming I don't get a smaller portion to compensate). No sign of my coke zero, most people don't have drinks yet except the tea drinkers.

Music/dance OK if bit hokey, though earlier they spent about five or ten minutes asking us to applaud for various nationalities in the audience, not even refraining from doing same country or city multiple times, tedious as fuck.

2036 Woman to my left is having a quick game of 'Wonder Zoo' on her mobile. This is OK and not really tied but given how long this is dragging out I think I am going to be back at hotel later than would like. Meh.

2049 I reordered coke a second time when got food but still no sign. Food OK, I have very poor sense of taste never mind lack of vocabulary but fwiw the alpaca had a slight tang to it which reminded me of gammon, would say it tastes a bit like halfway between gammon and chicken. Was a white meat, like pork or chicken. Came with a few chips, some rice and apparently miraculously undressed 'salad' of green beans and carrots.

Did remind me that after lunch was a girl (about 12) with a young alpaca (it was all one colour so assuming alpaca based on what I remember guide saying earlier, could easily have been a llama for all I know) which she was feeding from a baby bottle and letting people feed it. I should probably have seen if I could stroke it but didn't think at the time, main thought was had obviously no interest in feeding it. She was able to pick it up, but it was nearly as big as her. Then later an old woman brought one onto the bus as we waited in plaza to go to hot springs. Yes I did feel a bit bad for eating alpaca but not much, why should cuteness count?

2054 Just got coke zero as finishing the above. Should be more in moment but meh, it's not great and wanted to get this down.

Oh, all my loose change has (I hope) fallen out of trousers into daypack when got changed at baths, I certainly have none in pkt. Annoying as therefore nothing smaller than 10 note so didn't put anything in when music chap came round minute ago and may end up massively over-tipping on my presumably 23 PEN bill. It is busy and don't want to be stroppy twat by not tipping cos service dead slow but at same time rather not tip 20% by making it 30. Still, it's 50p, wtf if can't get any change.

Meh, virtually whole group has left while distracted by writing that. Bill actually 25 (5 coke), she gave me a 5 coin change but will leave it as tip, wtf. Wondering if should go. Think know where hotel is but didn't record GPS coords as expected to be with group, ditto don't know address as such as I didn't book it explicitly.

2111 Back at hostel. I was right, it was about 20 metres away - we drove (for some reason) in the bus but it was a comically short ride and that plus managing to orient myself wrt plaza on OSM map (I knew how to get from plaza to hotel) did the trick. Not sure if group had left, we were sat at a long table down both sides but it wasn't big enough for 30 odd people I think. Recognise a few people in group but not many. Music was still going on but I wasn't really enjoying it and felt bit awkward couldn't pay anything (but not so awkward was going to throw 10 in). Obviously bit sub-optimal to have been blogging earlier rather than 'being in the moment' but the mere fact I was doing it suggests I wasn't really that absorbed by what was going on, as a general rule I don't let the blogging usurp what's actually happening.

No wifi here, well, two wifi networks with names not like hotel's. I could have asked but frankly I was half embarrassed and half determined not to be too desperately 'over-connected'. I have mobile reception (tho still on Chilean SIM so vaguely possible I am unreachable from UK) so if anything super important had happened I would probably have been told, plus in reality even if something horrible has happened, do I really need to know *now*? It's not like I can get out of here until tomorrow morning anyway. I mean, it would suck, but would it really suck any more for having been out of touch, not that I am anyway qv mobile reception.

Anyway. Yes, change was loose in daypack. Shower then bed I guess.

Was thinking about earlier (triggered by what if thermal bath damages them somehow) and I appear to be travelling without a spare pair of glasses. I think I may have lacked a lightweight soft case and evicted them (consciously) when I was desperately trying to lose mass prior to flying out to Bangkok. Bit crap but not end of world, and I do have five or ten days worth of contact lenses and of course I could get some glasses here if need be.

2130 Fuck me. The room is cold, the shower could only be called lukewarm if feeling charitable. Need to sort out clothes for tomorrow before go to bed but may have to get in temporarily to warm up first.

2148 In bed. May not get to sleep too soon but still.

Arequipa, Thursday

1216 At El Cheff (yes, double f) Corazon, cheap Chinese place nr Plaza de Armas for tallarin con lomo saltado and to drink a glass of 'chicha de maiz morado'. Woke up 10-11ish but stayed in bed til about 1115. Could be worse. Will go to Museo San Andino or whatever after this.

1220 The drink is a dark red/purple lukewarm concoction which does taste faintly of maize (reminds me of maize tea I got at a 7-11 in Thailand) and doesn't taste ridiculously sweet. Interesting anway.

1239 Food not bad, noodles with bits of not super high quality beef and some tomato and with some rather 'soggy' chips half mixed in. Bill is 8 so pretty good value, so far Peru is shaping up to be tolerably cheap which has to help keep my average daily spend down. Think as yday I have to go to till to pay, so may not tip, depends how it works. No, chap just took the money I left on table as wrote last sentence, so will make it 10 with tip. Tempted to make it 9, more for 'getting coins as change' than tightness, but will resist.

1304 Portion was huge btw. Back at hotel. San Andino is super arsey and you can't *enter* w camera or phone. They provide lockers. However, they also suggest a jacket so come back to hotel via fruit shop to pick it up and will drop camera and phone off here. Might be a tour in English at 1325 so dashing off, not that is v far. It's 20 and then you have to tip the guide after, fing pricey, if I understood the guy's English they are showing a different preserved body than Juanita, as if it makes that much difference to me really. Anyway, let's pop off.

1736 OK, I ended up on a private tour (ie just me) but still, quite interesting. Probably about 55 mins altogether, first 20 or so being a National Geographic video. Felt obliged to tip guide 10 but meh. Then back to hotel to drop jacket off, recollect phone/camera, eat some fruit, Skype parents, then out about 4 to see Casa Moral, back via cash machine and supermarket to hotel. Went up to see if could book for Sat/Sun night but no one there, will try again later.

Casa Moral stirred my usual 'I wish I could live in a house like this' feeling followed by equally usual 'no I don't, it would be a bit crap even if I had the money'. Interesting though.

Santuario Andino video etc kept going on about how sacrificial victims were nobles chosen at birth and how it was an honour and they would have been scared but proud etc. Maybe. But I can't help wondering if they were fucking terrified and reluctant but no one likes to say that. Probably they are right. It was indeed not Juanita on display, it was another victim, guide said Juanita is on something like Apr-Dec then they switch as the light is damaging. There was something slightly solemn and a smidge ghoulish about staring at this frozen corpse in a triple-layered glass box (ie box inside box inside box) but it was interesting all the same. Can't remember name they gave to this one, v poss something remotely like Sora Sora and meaning something to do with corn but not at all confident, suppose hardly matters when it is just an after the fact 'nickname'. The museum did seem to downplay Zarate's (sp) role in discovery compared to what guidebook says but what do I know.

2002 Cool, just paid for Sat/Sun nights, guy said I can keep the key with me so while don't intend to could probably leave something in room while away (tho I am not paying for Fri night). Obviously slightly worried might lose key but not v likely I guess (tho there is a visit to some thermal spring or something and I do intend to go in as long as it's not a swimming kind of deal). In some sense 5 nights in Arequipa is overdoing it but OTOH I did some stuff today plus it was potentially helpful to acclimatise a bit and I hardly want to be haring off to bus terminal when I get back Saturday and then I want Sunday to sleep off Saturday night and go book a bus and hotel for Monday, so it's all quite logical and not as if I'm sticking on here out of laziness.

Do feel a smidge tired which is bit worrying but meh.

0044 Finally in bed.

Arequipa, Wednesday

1138 Heading out. Bit jittery re altitude (am fine now, re Colca Canyon) but basically lots of places I am going are highish so tho need a degree of caution can't just avoid it. Minor scare from guidebook re malaria but NHS website suggests I am OK anywhere I might go except possibly NW Peru, so not worrying about that for now and when in Cusco/Lima may look into need for future destinations and try to buy some tablets there if required. Generally I get idea you either suffer altitude or malaria risk, not both simultaneously. Anyway, out.

1227 At Le Paris Resto Grill for lunch. Been into three agencies and engaged in a torrent of Spanish about my physical limitations and lack of altitude acclimatisation. Basicaly they all seem to offer virtually identical two day one night tours, only thing that varies is the price (the company recommended in guide book for proper trekking was way more expensive, the other two were random companies on plaza de armas) and how dead-fish like the tour agent was. Irrationally I am leaning towards the first company simply because the agent seemed somewhat animated, even though they are 10 PEN more expensive than cheapest (prices 70, 80 and 115 respectively, mostly for guide+transport+hotel (private room and private bathroom, no one even offered dormitory) so in all cases about 150 worth of extras). I asked all three about altitude sickness and special clothing and they were generally reassuring, I can buy a poncho in Chivay if necessary, they have oxygen on bus (the 70 tour didn't say that but I didn't ask, the 115 tour did have it but I had to ask) and tho web suggests is ineffective they all say they give you coca tea. Expensive tour suggested taking aspirin, will make sure I have some tho totally uninformed speculation on web someone said better not to mask the symptoms.

I asked last/expensive tour if it would be better to stay an extra night in Arequipa [you just cannot get diet soft drinks in restaurants here] to acclimatise more and the woman said yes. So I think I will do that, I have little fear of finding *somewhere* and can prob stay where I am so not haring back to hostel to extend, I can then mull a little further and go book a tour to leave Friday morning tomorrow morning.

Maybe I do tend to put limits on myself by avoiding trekking etc, but at least in this case given the altitude business it seems foolish for me to throw myself into something requiring hours of walking when I am completely unacclimatised.

NHS web site and/or guide book (ie semi trustworthy) say physical fitness is no protection against the serious altitude sickness, it is less clear if it helps avoid relatively minor discomfort or if there is any distinction. Anyway, I'm being as sensible as I can and fwiw I am probably in better shape now than I was in 2010.

1749 OK, got fruit earlier, came back to hostel, Skyped parents, booked Spanish lesson for 8, went back out, booked with the 80 sol tour company for Friday morning, went to Iglesia de la Compañia and the rather impressively painted adjacent Capilla de San Ignacio and then out via (as guide book says) v fancy shopping mall in courtyards off to one side, then to cathedral (large and sort of impressive but strangely meh considering the size) then back here, have paid another 33 for another night here so I'm now good up til about 3pm Sat when return from Colca trip. Will probably book here for Sat & Sun as it's cheap and now a known quantity but not worrying right this instant.

May go out for beer after Spanish lesson then circumstances will keep me alcohol-free until Saturday night when hope to go out again. Bit jittery re only 7 weeks or so left but not waffling about that now and what am I going to do, just rush round like crazy in some futile attempt to avoid that fact? Just going to spoil things.

2127 In Brujas on San Francisco. I came to this street as LP guide said bars here. This place mentioned and less clubby than some others. But I came in and fuck me, I could swear I came here in 2010. Keep meaning to re-read old blog for multiple reasons but not done it yet.

Had Spanish lesson at 8, was and am feeling a bit tired (altitude? easy excuse - also bit short of breath walking up hill from hostel, but could be imagining it) but come out anyway. The little bit of street on hill near hotel v deserted but prob OK.

2213 Second beer, only 620ml bottles though. Paying as go as suspect that is what they expect, that means no tip, dunno if that is out of order, meh. PEN8 a bottle (Cusqueña), not too bad price if not fantastic. Place definitely filling up compared to earlier, though is quite small and in any case not heaving. I am virtually certain I was here in 2010, even the TV over the door showing the upcoming songs looks familiar.

Oh, I see from guide book and a leaflet from one of the companies went to this morning that you can do an ascent of some volcano, the leaflet isn't clear if it's one day or not. That would be super cool and apparently it's not particularly difficult for its height, but I do feel that it would be the height of folly to attempt something like that without acclimatisation even were I generally fitter than I am (and honestly I actually don't think I'm that bad, if not great).

2250 Seriously torn about a third beer but I *am* a bit tired for whatever reason and I am a smidge dubious about street by hotel and I can go out Saturday night and probably be a bit more relaxed and so barring an unexpected friendly encounter I think I am going to head back when finish this one. "Bat Out Of Hell" (not noticeably remixed) on now.

2310 Back at hostel. Sorely torn (didn't help that place across street was playing Laura Brannigan's "Self Control" as walked past) about staying out but it's only Wednesday, I was tired even before 8pm and any beer and much better all round to savour the anticipation of Saturday night. I might be tiredish given super early start Saturday morning but can't be any worse than am now.

2334 Just checked out old blog, I absolutely was at Brujas before in 2010, not super clear but I may have gone, left, gone back, met some guys there. I was only in Arequipa slightly over 24h (I did remember being in a rush to get down to Santiago for Easter Island flight), mentioned the canyon I am doing Fri/Sat and also the train museum in Tacna (all from guide book) as things I could maybe do in future and how I had just scratched surface of Peru (this makes me feel better about possibly spending more time here now and not haring off to Ecuador/Colombia). I did do the museo historico nacional (which I did this afternoon, may have forgotten to mention that) and the convent, I evidently didn't do the place with the ice maiden so will probably do that tomorrow. Tempted to say MHN a smidge familiar but I may have imagined it.

I need - not first time thought or blogged this this trip - to recover a little of my barfly persona from previous trip, yes health, yes not always being hungover but you do meet people, locals and tourists, in bars. Anyway, as already planned, makes perfect sense to be paragon of virtue until Colca canyon trip over and maybe I will cut a little bit loose this coming Saturday. Anyway, bed, it's 2340. Old blog amazingly atmospheric, I guess that's what it's there for. Hope am doing as well this time round tho sometimes feel is a bit perfunctory. Meh, if it triggers memories that is the main thing.