San Cristobal, Thursday

Thu 1950 back at host prob heading out on vague hope of seeing pink Floyd covers at nearish bar soon.

Bit earlier went out for walk and bought a new razor just after dark and group was playing poss mambo in bandstand kiosk type place and I realised you could go up so I went in and watched for a bit and that was quite cool.

Got up a bit early with view to going over to el arcotete but I was a bit slack and thought I did get up earlyish at 0815ish I also hung around having coffee after so didn't head out until 1015ish. I wandered over to where guidebook and organic maps showed colectivo to el arcotete and although it wasn't super promising I did spot a minibus for past as I was wandering around and flagged it down and got it over there no fuss. 25 for entry to ea ans no differential pricing. It was small but quite nice, I wandered the trails and pseudo medirated a bit and got slightly lost. The caves (15 pesos, but included in the 25, I got two tickets for my 25) were actually super cool and easily the highlight of the park. I didn't see any actual option to do the ziplining or go on a lancha but I wasn't too upset about either of them.

I then came back and had not bad but tbh slightly disappointing butter chicken and jeera popadoms at Madhava? And then I think I wandered around a bit more and came back to hostel and extended for another night.

I did during my evening walk head over to coffee bean ho(s)tel as mentioned on posters in this one and it does look kind of cool and I just may head over there eg tomorrow night and check the bar out.


2004 very very enthusiastic nonstop talking canadian woman talking about "peoples reset" conference which this hostel seems to be promoting a bit in kitchen and while I only like 10% agree with the kind of stuff being discussed to be fair it doesn't sound entirely wanky but this was (conversation has stopped now) somewhat annoying.

I think internet is down but never mind.

Fri 0031 that worked out almost insanely well.

The bar (jacks) with the maybe pink Floyd band was shit. They clearly didn't want solo people like me. I was offered two tables, neither good, and when I asked the music was on at 10 and it was about 845 at this point. Beer also about twice sane price. I wanderd over towards coffee bean but it seemed shut so went in Jules next door and had some nice artisanal beer and some peculiarly 60s esque pink Floyd weirdly independent music feelong music and they also played Smith's "panic" and I got chatting with barman Aziz (sp?) From aguascalientes who grew up in Georgia but spoke to me on Spanish and met a guy a year older than me from Oregon and was recommended a bar (el paliacate?) Near-ish centre and @lao it turns out Aziz worked here at my hlstel for a couple of months and asked me to remember him to people. And I walked home and it was fine and guzzled last of many garapinado before coming to bed and in short things all worked out amazingly serendipitously well and I almost feel like I have been granted freedom of San Cris and this hostel.

San Cristobal, Wednesday

0941 at breakfast table. Couple prob owners talking in English, possibly French couple of poss guests with a laptop, some woman doing something on floor. Breakfast was just dry toast with maybe an option on some iffy looking porridge but there is decent hot coffee with milk and for the money I am not complaining. Will probably see if I can get another coffee and then maybe go for a wander.

Not spoken to anyone but it doesn't feel like anyone else is speaking to anyone they don't know, so to speak.

Slept pretty well, woke up about 4-5am for a piss and didn't feel super sleepy afterwards but not in a terribly bad way. Bed capsule is big enough and in particular tall enough it feels more cost and vaguely "kid playing at house" than claustrophobic.

I will probably ask about staying another night but I will see how I feel after a wander.

0952 come up to roof with second cup of coffee. A dew people up here who may be guests, French-ish woman talking in English with a bloke, some solo bloke sitting at another table. Quite warm and sunny.

1025 just finished reading goodbye Mr chips which I only started last night, very short. Not bad actually. I has somehow expected chips to be either a figure of fun or living in poverty after retirement and sort of nice to see either was actually the case. I suspect it is a certain vague sneering quality in the odd mention of it from smug right on comics and other media figures that made me expect something like that.

Vague digital nomad stuff in guide book makes me feel slightly jelaous but also kind of not, after all I am *not* here to work. It would be kind of nice to have some sort of interaction with someone but we will see how it goes. I just might check for a meetup type event here, it feels vaguely like the kind of place that might have one.

1032 OK nothing physical on meetup and as usual the online events turn my stomach with their various vaguely self love right on self centredness.

Couchsurfing really wants a login and I justmay sign up later but apart from one or two people wanting to meet up I didn't see much in way of events when I tried to web search direct to a relevant page without logging in.

A vague "OMFG I am just *so* interesting and I can't wait to meet all the other travellers and talk breathlessly about indigenous cultures and rights and equality and omfg Trump " atmosphere (I exaggerate, of course) pervades all these kind of sites and with less of a current affairs tone the guidebook has it too and it is just vaguely sickening and I need to try to stop possibly reading this tone into everything when it may not be there.

I have checked out a rough walking tour in guise book and will probably go for a wander in a bit but if there is more milky coffee on hand I will perhaps go have one more first  yes lazy but I am on holiday ans while a smidge solo (just one other guy, Maybe a digital nomad or artist or something worthy like that, up here) it is also sort of cool.

Reading huck Finn internittently which I alaobsownloased (that is on-screen keyboard-ese for "also downloaded", because b for space breaks auto correct) last night.

1048 got another cup coffee with milk and put some sunblock on and left fleece in dorm, so probably nicer up here now. This is maybe a bit lazy but I am also supposed to be experimenting with slow travel and although it is a bit lonely it is also kind of cool and I am in no rush.

Maybe I am imagining it but the male guests (or are they staff? Reqlly hard to know but the way some of them talk they might be) here seem to run a good deal to very tall and thin 30ish pseudo surfer looking types with longish hair in a sort of top knot. Sure I am not describing that right and maybe it is just one or two but it feels a bit odd.

1134 OK finished coffee. Kind of don't want to but let's go out for a walk.

1934 up on terrace. Lots of staff and long term resident types chatting and feeling a bit odd bit not too bad. Has my second can of dos Equis from first night up here earlier and was similar.

Went out and got some snack (Mani garapiñado) at supermarket and bu chance there was spme vaguely marimba music in bandstand in square so I stayed and listened a bit.

Spent today wandering around and going to the churches up stairs at roughly either end of town and also down to the arch and has an ice cream in street and some bread snack cake stuff and also an expensive and I mahbe for confused with whether I paid with 100 or 50 note coffee while killing time towards end of day. Not a bad day but a bit dull and very aldous Huxley excessive freedom quote stuff.

Need to see if I can find somewhere suitable for a solo day trip tomorrow. I couldn't extend on booking the hoatel seemed to not be listed any more but asked at reception and paid 123 for an extra night.

Also found an Indian restaurant today which looks quite good and cheap and may go tomorrow.

Main meal today was borderline OK pepperoni pizza at Pachamama, i found the attached place but didn't feel up to faffing and suspected portion would be tiny etc.

Quick lopkbat guidebook suggests there is a 30 min hike up Cerro de Don Lauro here which might be worth considering.

1944 OK some half decent colectivo type options nearby. Maybe el arcotete parque ecologico might work well. Don't much like sound of no camera rule at San Juan chamula but maybe also a candidate another day. Mixed feelings about staying at this hostel, maybe I am not quite making the best effort to join in chat but it does also feel like everyone is ataff or long term guest (talk about renewing visas etc just now) and it just might be worth trying another hostel in town. We will see how it goes.

The town feels half empty in a way. It is buya and there are clearly tourists but eg there are fake trams etc doing toirist trips and they never seem to have any custom.

2204 bit weird. Been ultra on fringe of concversatipn ans feel ultra bnm but since I don't smoke and I'm not inherently interesting like everyone else difficult to know what to do. At least I haven't actively hiding away, even if I have been mostly invisible from a few metres away on roof terrace from everyone else. Staff type guy Max? Has been mildly encouraging at least.

2213 "they just burnt down LA" ffs, whatever you might believe the real cause is, isn't it fuxking wildfires? Fuck knows. Not my business. Privilege being bandied around by the few people left up here. Having a superior beer which is cheapish. CBDC being mentioned amazingly enoighm

2221 yeah, three guys left and a surprisingly 95pc savvy conversation about tor and vpn is going on. Albeit surfshark is being mentioned so meh.

2307 bed. Bit of a shitty but interesting night. I can't help feeling there is some kind of lesson about how I should have been bold eg a day or two ago and just spoke to people even though they were smoking. But it does kind of feel like everyone her is a long term resident and they all know each other. And then maybe the odd cool couple turns up ans obviously they are welcome to join in. But I dinno, just maybe even if I fucked up I am edgong closer to feeling I can speak to some people here.

Anyway, let's send thia. Try to be up earlyosh for breakfast tomorrow and maybe get in a nice day-trip and then maybe an Indian meal after and just possibly will try to extend for another say and maybe speak to some people tom{rrow noght. I loce predoxfove onscreen keyboards, so great. My forte is definitely more hac{ng one on one chats with people who are also obviously alone not this everyone knows everyone massive group vibe.

Must be nice to just be able to assume/know that other people like you and that you are interesting though.

Palenque-San Cristobal de las Casas

Tue 0812 down on lower terrace with free coffee. Raining. Checked at reception and checkout is 12, though probably don't want to be around that long. Not checked booking but still intending to go to San Cristobal today.

Woke up V briefly (didn't even get up) maybe 2-3am and then again for a piss about 0450 but that is already a pretty solid nights sleep - I probably did go to sleep fairly soon after going to bed.

Rain during night but sort of cool to hear it through open insect screened window next to bed.

Was mostly awake in bed from perhaps 7am but I think this was more that I just wasn't tired any more rather than that I couldn't get back to sleep. I did read a bit and it was aemi pleasant but also a bit uncomfortable with vague muscular pains and struggling to hold slippery phone at angles to read etc, hence getting up.

I do feel the tiniest bit homesick and some general background mental wobbles but not too bad and the fact I fly home for better or worse in six weeks' time somewhat reduces the impact of the short term homesickness type concerns. Of course six weeks is still a long time and I can and will do lots of fun stuff between now and then.

0823 just had a look on booking and my somewhat preferred hostel has maybe 2 out of 6 because occupied in one dorm, another 6 bed dorm possibly unoccupied (tho this may be a xonfusing listing) and 1 bed occupied in a 4 bed dorm. So while it may be a bit too quiet, it may be OK, it may be nicely just social and of course it may fill up but it ought to be possible to get a lower bunk and not to feel overly crowded. I think I will finish this coffee and maybe get another one and check in more detail at reception than I have before where I can get a colectivo to San ceistobal then book it. It is slightly a shame to leave here but aa I say I am likely to be back and some of the wanky hotelness about it is not entirely to my taste and while my actiey unfriendly it feels big and sunloungerish enough that it doesn't feel like other people are actively meeting each other, not just me. Not that I have been trying hard given I kind of wanted a day or two to chill.

1819 so I spoke to teception woman and shebsaid that as there were a lot of curves on road it was safer to go earlier!? So i hastily booked two nights in hostel and packed and headed over to colectivo place as indicated by reception woman.

Long story short the journey was fine but interminable. I has to change  (but had prepaid - 230 total) in much bigger than I expected Ocosingo and was a bit dozy about getting a good seat on Ocos-San Cristobal bus but got away with it. The Ocos-San Cristobak journey felt intermonablw, at many points there seemed to be a speed bump every few metres. The whole journey took about 6
hours and at times it felt like it would just never end.

Walked over to new hostel and got checked in no problem. Good first inpressions of San Cristobal. Hostel feels slightly weird but kind of nice, I am up to roof terrace with a beer to sort of watch sunset, might be a couple of guys smoking in corner (well, there are) but it is fine. It is pretty chilly and have fleece on and was cold in street earlier after I popped out for dinner maybe 530iah. Will have a good look roind town tomorrow but while maybe a smidge touristy it seems very attractive and feels quite real and so on.

Bed is a bit capsule but it has a light and a socket and is probably no worse and probably nicer than the bed at lost + found in Panama so we will see how it goes.

I may pop out for a brief solo wansed with my fleece on after have this beer and see how sunset goes.

I think town is over 2000m above sea level which probably accounts for the coolness but tbh this is probably very very pleasant during the day.

1937 went for wander into town from 7. Streets near hostel a amisfe quiet but not too bad. Centre quite busy and lots of locals,  esp considering it is a Tuesday. somewhat of a Villa de Leyva vibe.

Sitting at table with a free coffee. People around. Feel slightly awkward/bnm but not too bad. At least am putting myself out. Just a bit shocked at the nice dog (cafe?) Suddenly nuzzling my ankle.

Despite quite liking the nominal vibe here there are various rather political cartoons on the walls in places including some "climate justice" and "smash the patriarchy". Someone is watching a slightly stupid political sounding film too.

Dog (female) is "cafecita". Was told this in check in aa the guy himself told me his name but forgot because I was a bit flustered, not great but not terrible.

2011 just had the 70g packet of takis fuego I bought iirc in that little shop on Bacalar just before I got ill. I has been meaning to eat them this morning but on discovering I had to rush off I didn't. I am glad I did get off early though, given how long the journey was.

Still having coffee. While a bit weird there is a vague pseudo friendly vibe here and it is somehow (perhaps just in my head because it is coldish out) a tiny bit like the finca I went to on the paramillo del quindio hike.

2023 I think they are going to watch "Jones Plantation". I have has a quick look online and I am not interested. It may not be excessively preachy but despite not being pro slavery I expect it is going to be annoyingly metaphorical and smug.

I may take a coffee up to the (probably closed) bar. Sitting at the table is uncomfortable as the bench is super low compared to the table.

2028 up in bar. Feel slightly loserish but at the same time I really don't want to end up hearing the film and that very low table was super uncomfortable. poster on wall advertising microdoses!

I did bring a fresh coffee. It is super strong tasting in a probably over-stewed way and not super pleasant but it is free and it isn't that late. There is free water here too.

I did enjoy the takis fuego but also given their relative brittleness (and the poppable nature of the bag) I was sick of lugging them round every time I moved so it is good to have eaten them.

I haven't has a shower yet tonight and I probably won't. I don't feel that sweaty and will probably push it until tomorrow early evening. Plan for tomorrow is just to wander rouns and see the place, have free hostel breakfast, maybe some coffee or cakes at points, seen somewhere doing arrachera chips and rice at a half decent price and may have that for lunch etc. I can then think about extending here or elsewhere and also look into whether there are any tours I want to do either with an agency or if possible solo, or perhaps some day trips out by colectivo to nearby towns or whatever. If I like it here I am in no rush and as long as I am mostly doing "stuff" I am happy to stay here a week or more.

2141 jeez, this coffee really is not very nice, especially now it's gone cold. But nearly finished it. I may then have a glass of water and move towards bed. I do feel a bit odd up here in bar on own but also kind of nice and peaceful. Wearing fleece still and it is borderline comfortable verging on just slightly chilly.

People come through to toilet once in a whole but no one seems bothered about me being here.

2156 went and got water. Glad I am not downstairs, film is a bit hard to avoid. It may or may not be objectionable but not interested. When it finishes will go get tooth cleaning stuff etc and move towards bed.

2236 cleaned teeth etc, about to go to bed so will send this.

Palenque, Monday

Mon 0929 on deserted upstairs terrace by kitchen having lime juice in sparkling water. There is a stupid rule which I am not sure is enforced which suggests I can't take my plastic tumbler away from kitchen. But it is quite nice up here especially solo.

Was probably in bed about 2200 and actually got up 0845. Did wake up a few times in the night (sort of but not quite for piss etc) but overall didn't sleep too badly, albeit at about 0645 felt a bit wobbly and did stay up a few mins and went back to bed and was drifting in and out very lightly. Still, I did obviously fall asleep to some extent given I was awake in bed getting up 0830ish.

Muscles still aching a bit - including unusually my *left* hip, perhaps due to sleeping on other side more somehow - but not too bad and obviously not unexpected after ruin stuff, which is not usual exercise for me even when I am exercising.

No idea where to go or what to do and tbh feeling a bit homesick. I am sure it will be fine, and obviously no reason to expect this to be permanent given I felt fine a few days ago etc. I may go out and get a coffee after (touch wood) collecting laundry it is not inplauaible some mental wobbles are caused by a somewhat cold turkey accidental withdrawal from coffee, since it hasn't been free of late and it hasn't always been convenient or natural to buy some. There is a slightly boutique looking coffee shop just round the corner and I may go there.

Let me have a banana anyway.

0945 tiny chill up here, sort of nice but still. Could go get fleece but rather not. Some slightly annoying music coming from a guest phone on lower terrace but not too bad.

Need to remember that while yet I would like to try to form some onward plans today I don't have to rush. I could probably extend here a night despite minor annoyilanxea it is relatively comfortable and there are other options nearby including a whole apartment very cheap which might be a bit solitary but night also be what the doctor ordered right now. No rush whatsoever. It is only 0947!

1030 been slowly drinking lime water. Quick poke at guise book. There seem to be some chilled kind of places on the road to the ruins here which night be tempting at some point. However, fit feeling is that San Cristobal de las casas looks interesting in itself, I have never been there, it is maybe well placed for activities around and while there are some very nice and tempting cheap hostel dorms which I may well try first, there are also some affordable privates including in some hostels. So I am strongly leaning to going there and booking in a dorm for a day or two and playing it by ear and if I need or want a bit of a break I can maybe try for a private after. I could imagine hanging around a while in scdlc itself if I like it and right now I do have a lot of time left and that may all work well.

Everything looks tolerably emptyish judging from booking.com too, not deserted and may book up last minute but still, suggests eg dorms would not be heaving etc.

I don't have to decide about this right now of course.

As I think I said I am not ruling out doing stuff in palenque and returning but it would be natural to be here for a Guatemala loop but given I am ruined out etc it would probably be good to be doing that very approximately 4 weeks before end of trip. It sounds like I might be able to enjoy some urban vibes (music, coffee, streets etc) around sans Cristobal and maybe get some nature exposure in which isn't ruin-oriented.

Yes urban vibes is a wankyish thing to say but gets point over and it is hard esp writing on  onscreen keyboard.

1116 Laundry still damp apparently. Come to Cafetos for a latte. Broke a 500. Staff perhaps a touch odd or maybe I was weird hanging around for my coffee instead of taking a seat. There was some woman soloist with good but mournful voice on stereo and it was chewing at my mental wobbliness. We now have some slightly honky tonk country on which is technically sad but also slightly lively and feels better.

"Now the years fly by just like an eagle... Take me back to the woods where she left me"

I was feeling a bit upbeat about prospect of San Cristobal but wobbles came back a bit. Mixed feelings right now. It is fine, I think the predominate element has to be homesickness and that should take care of itself eventually, be that in a hour or a few days, and a new hostel tomorrow may also help somehow.

Wearing short sleeve top as it is the only one I have and also flip flops and feel a smidge cold, not entirely unpleasantly but still. Half wish had brought fleece out. Not end of world.

My hostel is actually mentioned i n the guide book.

1155 got Americano. Will go check laundry after. Mind oscillating between wobbles and "how cool is it sitting here in the warm with this breezE and I'm in Mexico baby".

Staff seem a smidge surly but maybe I am being unfair. But  they seem massively overstaffed and compared with the much "poorer seeming" atmosphere in that place I has the quesadillas yesterday the same there seemed to have a kind of hardworking but not servile cheeriness. Meh.

1415 I picked my laundry up and checked it right there and it was all there and it was no joke extremely satisfying. Put a long aleeved clean top on and felt surprisingly good. Went out for food and got some brea and ham and carrots and have had some up here in kitchen. I also spoke to woman on reception at some point and there are frequent colectivos to San Cristobal for about 100 taking a couple of hours or so.

I am blowing hot and cold about whether to see if I can stay here an extra night here. It is sort of nice but there is also something vaguely oppressive about it. And it isn't as if I can't or won't come back quite naturally later on.

I am being a little inconsistent, one minute from a homesickness POV thinking how long it is until I can go home and at another thinking I need to make the most of my time.

I also saw a little local chicken and chips type place on way back from getting my supplies at supermarket and an half wondering about going there.

1702 had tiny wander round LA Canada and back at Cafeteros.got another two litres aparklong water earlier. May try jacuzzi for not missing out sake when get back. Still vaguely dithering about staying or going. But tbh probably as well to go, I can then have a day or two quietly puttering round San Cristobal and I am likely to be back here pre Guatemala loop anyway. I may be stupidly reluctant to go just cos I have a single bed by the door in the dorm (something they nominally charge a stupid premium over a regular dorm bed for on booking)  but that is hardly a reason to stay.

The idea of another dorm in San Cristobal is not mega tempting but it may be OK and if not I can switch to somewhere with a private. And while I am not exactly gagging to socialise it may also be nice and this hostel doesn't feel right someone - it is kind of too big somehow. And I do at least have a full-ish complement of clean clothes which is good wrt dorms and I should take advantage.

1906 Spent over half an hour in jacuzzi from a bit before 6,  to maybe 1835. it was off at first but came on about 1803 on presumably a timer and stayed on untl I got out. Slightly cold at first and not super warm but not bad. Milked it a bit. Not super enjoyable but also kind of fun, I had it to myself and at least I did it.

Then had super long shower - the hot water here is very hot, which is nice - and got dressed into ss top and flip flops and collected fleece from locker and put power bank on to charge in room. Was going to have some sandwiches but kitchen is a bit rammed and will wait a bit. Had my last banana and got my reusing bottle of water.

I think I am going to sleep on it but gut feeling is I will go to a dorm in San Cristobal tomorrow - I will book it when I get up. I expect to be up around 9 at the latest and check out is 12.

I realised while in the jacuzzi that I fly back in six weeks' tomorrow. This is in some ways a bit of a shame but it also maybe puts the vague homesickness feeling into a bit of perpective. I certainly don't need to rush but as I may have already said it would in some ways be nicer to be bumming around in novel city SC instead of here.

2045 just done bloody Duolingo.

Had remaining sandwiches and carrots, two girls had spread laptops and shit out over all the kitchen terrace seating area so I had to sit in kitchen and eat. It is a mess in sink because of scrotes but never mind. I also squeezed my second remaining lime into bottle of carbonated water and have brought it down with me to drink in sun lounger. Slightly annoyingly cocky and noisy Spanish speaking guys in the jacuzzi.

2214 Started to piss it down about 20 mins ago. Just about to go to bed. Not mega tired and a bit bloated but not feeling too bad.

Xpujil and Xpujil-Palenque

Sun 0718 in Xpujil, waiting for 8am bus to Villahermosa which I am taking to Catazaja and changing to Palenque from there.

I have a big gap but I am going to have to start writing now and fill the gap in after, a bit like San blas trip.

It has been chaotic with little free time since leaving Bacalar. On the whole it was good but I am a bit exhausted. Last night Iwas struggling to find how to get on froXpujil and in the end asked reception who got me to mrssage owner who told me avout this. Fingers crossed as if this doesn't work out the options are a bit thin and I already paid for a dorrm in palenque, which appears to have few cheap or even generally social options.

I did ask a chap sitting here about trt bua at 8 and he seemed to think it was from here but I am a bit leery.

Last night while packinng I notices my tube xube, which I had left locked around cable on floor right next to maim bag, was soaked. I had and have no idea how this happened. I emptied it out and towelles off the contents and the cube itself (stamping on it in a towel) and thanks to luckily having put most stuff inside plastic bags inside it for organisation I have probably got away with it. Some ashesive sreasings are maybe toast. Lessons learned are probably to make use of sealed plastic bags a formal part of packinf strategy for tube xube and not to leave it outside main bag if I can help it, though wrt the latter I guess if the main baf had mysteriously got soaked the tube xube might have stayed dry.

I got up at 630 after waking up constantly in night wondering/dreading of it was time to go. If I can get on this bus OK most of the stressy bits of today will be over and just a question of grinding through.

I really really want a day or two with no requirement to get up early or rush round and a comfortable bed. I am not planning to charge round palenque like mad partly as I was there in 2010 but obviously don't remember that much but mainly because it is quite likely I will be back at least once and? Maybe more druing this trip, esp if I do the Flores etc loop  I may so palenque ruins at some point but I am ruined-out right now and a gap seems desirable, likewise I also really don't want to do Flores etc loop right now.
Feel a bit annoyed as I am going to Palenque not cos I want to or cos it is an obvious gateway to somewhere I do want to but because I has to to get out of Xpujil. In hindsight I could have gone to Villahermosa but didn't know that til I started asking about palenque and it turns out this bus has villaheemosa as its destination. Same principle kind of applies though. I suspect I am going to feel very dunneles by buses and available hoatela on bo{king in terms of onward travel rather than ezcitingly exploring a broad range of options.

But let's just get to palenque today.

0735 aha, there are taxi colectivos to escarcega. This is probably a solid fallback. There is iirc an ado bus esc-palenque, the last one probably leaves 1330 but if (touch wood) I miss this 8am bus I should have plenty of time to get to ESC before then.

I checked trendy Maya last night and couldn't see any tickets on any day but this may just be something I am doing wrong.

0749 on bus, paid 400 for ticket. It says crucero de playas but I saw a sign earlier talking about crucero de playas de catazaja so reasonably optimistic. It was actually here and waiting hidden behind some ado buses but luckily I went for a brief wander.

Day-pack feels slightly damp but not quite sure how. Unless one of my tiny near empty water bottles leaked on top. Not a big deal. Spoke to American? Couple in brief queue to ask if they had a ticket and they said you had to buy on bus, as I did. They are having some sifficulty getting to some small place and I talked to rhe woman a little bit about how I am going to Palenque. Her destination sounds more interesting. :-)

TBH I suspect poorlyish documented taxi collective services and maybe local buses are the key to seeing slightly off the beaten track places, though for overnight stays you need axxxom on somewhere like booking, but there may well be places you can use as a base to explore the surroundings via colectiv o with luck.

Bag does fit in overhead rack nicely anyway.

I saw and atrokes breakdown little kitten from the other night out here - I can see the Six I bought the beer in through bus windows, we are right in front of it. Not written any of that up yet of course.

I left over half a big bag of tortilla chips in Accom this morning to save carrying them and half wish I had them now. Not end of world. I am not actually hungry and I have other snacks too and doubtless chance to purchase some. Albeit while it is hard to be sure I looked at myself in mirror last night and felt my gut looked way bigger than normal. Diet has not been great, though otoh I also didn't think I had eaten huge quantities of anything healthy or unhealthy in general.

Used lifestraw for first time in anger yesterday, did work reasonably well.

I was finally able to find time to wd some much needed cash yday afternoon. OK I did haveny reserves but I really didn't want to touch them and although of course there is theft risk it does feel good to actually not be constantly worrying about not being able to pay for stuff.

0800 fwiw ado buses have gone so I might have seen this bus even if I has stayed waiting around in that not quite right spot earlier anyway.

0811 engine started.

0813 moving!

1040 been drowsing. Arriving escarcega. Throat dry but reluctant to drink too much.

1046 on way.

1819 On lower terrace at hostel, a couple are hanging around and the woman has a laptop, we said hi but no more. Been charging around due to losing stuff due to lack of recent experience with dorms.

To resume the journey and without going into too much detail, I stared to feel a bit mentally wobbly after a bit. I did just about keep it together.

Got off at Catazaja no problem and straight into a waiting colectivo minibus. Unfortunately I ended up sitting next to a weird young Mexican guy who insisted on talking to me in mildly incomprehensible English, although I suspect he may have grown up in the US and his incomrehensibility was mainly due to his mental state. He kept going on about Trump (I don't know if he thought I was American or not) and about drug gangs and their weaponry and don't go "over there" as he waved his arm unhelpfully. I tried to make noncommital comments. I dont know if he was trying to scare me or not - I was slightly, but only to the extent that I assumed I'd have to deal with him when I got off the colectivo. Luckily he got off way before we got into Palenque so I was spared that and I instantly felt better.

Jumping ahead, I just last minute decided to take a load of laundry into the HITW laundrette next door - min 4kg/100 pesos but not too bad. (Given my bag with water weighs about 7kg I am likely hitting the min price, but can't really be helped.I have taken a chance and taken four full sets of clothes and underwear in and have taken my grey trousers off and swapped to black ones for first time on this trip. There are some laundry machines here in the hostel but no privacy to hand wash or hand dry and the hostel machines are min 4kg too and price probbably same or worse, and I asked and woman at HITW said she would wash at low temp and dry in sun.

Fingers crossed I dont regret this but hand washing trousers is always a bit unsatisfactory and if as I suspect I am going to be in unpropitious laundry circumstances for a while it is a good idea to get them done professionally while I can. (Technically the private bathroom at the cabin in Xpujil would have been great for laundry, but the basin water flow was just a trickle and it was practically stuck to the wall with chewing gum. I did IIRC do a tiny bit of water-only washing of one garment at a time in the shower to eke things out, but of course this is always a bit unsatisfactory.)

I got colectivo to drop me just round corner from hostel and it's quite a swanky looking bit of town, although when I popped out later for a wander if you go a block or two north it gets quite gritty. Still, apart from one super amiable and harmless beggar no one hassled me.

Back to the hostel, I checked in. It is all a bit semi-fancy with but with an annoying hotel vibe - there is a stupid wifi code you have to enter rather than them just giving you the wifi password, and I have to wear a wristband. That said, it is super clean and the groud are pretty big and nice and there is a kitchen with a fridge.

I managed to get a single bed in the dorm. It showed signs of only one other occupant when I arrived but I think it has been filling up.

I drank loads of free water and called parents from kitchen then (all this rather dithering TBH) went out for a walk and food. Lots of expensive restaurants but I found a local-seeming place up in the grittier bit and had a couple of large and pretty decent quesadillas with arrachera and a mango juice. I also went to supermarket(s) and got some bananas and some sparkling water, the latter I will try to have with some lime in a bit.

My feet are itching - I am wearing flip-flops, partly to save laundry - but I suspect it is more after-effects of dirtyish sweaty socks all day despite having had a *very* hot shower (and doing a redundant, since I took it into laundry after last minute decision to use it, water wash on one top) than mosquitos. There are some hanging round though so I may go and put some repellent on feet.

1836 Jesus, it is an epic trek between back terrace and my dorm.

So I came back and had a shower and as I say took laundry next door and I am now sitting out here. I feel slighty BNM but TBH I am really not desperate to meet anyone. (I did wonder a little if the slight mental wobble on bus was a reaction to having been with people so much lately and hen suddey feeling lonely, but who knows?)

I was dreading it would be like an inferno here while getting stressed out on the bus but TBH even wandering around while warm it was not horribly so. Quite pleasant out here at night of course.

Not super happy to be in a dorm but I think it will be fine. It always has been in the past and I dont think my mental wobbles are too bad now. (Possibly a silly phrase, butas this is a public blog and I don't want to go ito too much detail it will do.) Also after getting up at 0630 and not really sleeing that well (I had two blankets on against it being relatively cold from the previous night, but I was also sweating a bit despite it probably actually being cold, and I was maybe a bit worried about waking up in time and getting the bus etc) I hope to sleep fairly well in a proper bed, and although I don't know if people will put it on or not there is also aircon. I have a window with an insect screen that opens by my bed FWIW. Unfortunately socket is on wall and too high to charge phone on floor, but I can work round this with power bank and overall it isn't bad.

1843 So let me revert to Thursday morning and start to fill in the gaps. I don't expect to get it all done tonight.

I didn't sleep amazingly well IIRC but perhaps a little better. I got up pretty late - take all this with a pinch of salt given it was now several days ago - and had breakfast at hostel. I then overhear Youri (as it turns out it is spelled) talking to someone about Xpujil and I wandered over (rather dynamic of me). Long story short, Youri was willing to drive a car and they were thinking of hiring one and apparently it was only 15 euros a day and they were looking for people to share with them to go to Xpujil. I dithered but did essentially (and I am gong to try to avoid complete blow by blow stuff here) decide to go and as I'd already paid for Thursday night at the Bacalar accom I did ask and although I couldnt get that money back they did refund me for that day's breakfast, so I effectively got over half back.

The car price turned out to be a bit higher than advertised of course and there was insurance too. But anyway the three of us - the other being a German guy called (sp?) Mischa - probably left about 2-3ish. The Spanish guy from hostel said it was his day off the next day and he might go over and we swapped numbers but he never got in touch.

Anyway, we ended up having to go for food as we walked along trying to find the collectivo place which ate up some time. We then managed to find collectivo and go one over to Chetumal as we needed to hire the car at Chetumal airport. We had to faff around getting dropped in Chetumal and then getting a taxi over to the airport as there is some stupid pricing in effect.

There was one guy ahead of us in the queue which took forever and then it took forever for us to get dealt with too. Mischa - who speaks good Spanish by the way, better than I do or at the very least more confidently - had gone outside for fresh air but Youri speaks fairly good Spanish and I was able to step in and help with a bit as necessary.

M had been saying stuff at various points about how we ought to take the car back to Bacalar or stay the night in Chetumal and that he didnt want to go in the dark or that it would be boring in Xpujil etc. Luckily I got to chat to Y during the car hire phase and Y felt like me and although M  wasnt happy we did manage to talk him round. (FFS, we paid for two nights for the car. Why write one off going back to Bacalar? And I wrote off half my pre-paid accom there. And it would have been a massive time sink, as I think he finally saw the next day.)

We did drive in the dark and it was fine though there was a certain amount of joking about people pulling us over with guns or whatever and I must admit I (sitting in the back) was quietly edgy at times and was glad when we arrived.

I got slightly shortchanged at reception to the tune of about 70 pesos and with the others there and a certain flustered quality I had to sort of let it go.

The private cabin was OK, the bed was nice enough with a mosquito net, the private bathroom small but with a suicide shower (so warm water at least) and although the sink was wobbly it was not bad. The cabin was not sealed and there were quite a few air holes or bits of plants growing through.

We met a German-Austrian couple (maybe just "best friends", hard to say) who had been let down with their transport to ruins (poss due to needing a third person) and it was suggested they join us to share the hire. We all went out to dinner together - M fell asleep after one beer and went back to the accom sightly ahead of the rest of us (he was sharing with Y), so so much for all that "oh it'll be boring in Xpujil" stuff as if he planned to stay out and party all night.

Couple were Lars and (not completely sure about her name, sadly) Miriam. Both very nice. Lars is a filmmaker of some kind and she makes ceramics (on the last day at B*, to describe later, we saw some big spiders and she said she had some like that roaming around in her studio back home). Y and Mischa both did geology at university BTW, Y works in that field, Mischa has an ebay business selling all sorts of stuff he has accumulated over the years but he isnt happy with it as people are always complaining now.

Chap from couple at table just commented on my bt keyboard setup and we exchanged a few words, they have gone off to dinner. Nice of them to say hi though.

You can imagine a vague low grade worry about having enough physical cash for the duration of this whole trip with those guys. I did have my reserves but didnt really want to touch them. To jump ahead, I did finally withdraw some cash on Saturday afternoon in Xpujil after they all left to drive back to Chetumal and that was a big relief.

1901 Gonna take a little break.

1941 Watched a video. Bum hurting a bit from not super comfy seat.

Anyway, we agreed to meet up at 630 in the mornng but we didnt go to bed too late so although I was a bit edgy it wasnt too bad. Considering I had been ill I wasnt and havent feel feeling too bad and perhaps to some extent the sudden road trip has kind of kick-started my holiday.

Incidentally except for Youri who is late 20s, all the rest of us were in our 40s, though I was probably the oldest by at least 3-4 years.

Fair old drive over there but not too big a deal. In an extremely frustrating way there are three different admission fees to pay in at least two and maybe three different places. Given my general cash concerns this was all a bit stressful.

We were expecting a dirt road down to Calakmul itself but it is a super nice modern tarmac road. We saw a few animals on the way, though being in back I didnt see that many - not a huge deal.

It was sort of spitting with rain a bit at times and fairly overcast but on the whole we got pretty lucky with the weather - it was basically dry and we werent there in blistering heat or anything.

I saw most of the site, although was a bit hurried towards the end and some of the signage is pretty bad. We might (photos/GPS tracks would be definitive) have got there about 10 and agreed to meet up at 3 to come back. We started off somewhat together but not all that much (it wasn't just me) and in the end we mostly split up.

It was pretty cool to be there and climb up the various structures. It was quiet enough you often had the smaller ones to yourself and never really that busy. Reallt hard to take photographs which show the scale of the place and I wont try to waffle badly about it but I will say it was pretty nice.

On the way back I managed to locate the "bat volcano" place on Organic Maps and we went there and that was pretty cool. TBH it wasn't quite the absolute thick black swarm of bats coming out that I had hoped for (despite I think seeing a video of it on the bus down to Bacalar, along with the tarantula courtship stuff) but it was pretty impressive. They told us we'd need to cover our noses and mouths because of the smell (ammonia etc) but no one stood near me seemed to have a problem with it.

Our group was the last subgroup to leave the little tour - by chance (thanks to Mischa suggesting we get a move on) we got there just in time to pay 80 each to join the organised group walking down the short trail to the cave.

After that we went back to the accommodation and went out for some excellent quesadillas and (not quite my favourite but OK) gorditas at a very friendly little kiosk near the taxi rank and then we went and had some micheladas at a little kiosk and there was a bit of a party atmosphere. Mischa left first I think and then Youri and Miriam and Lars and I stayed for a last one.

Calakmul and that evening ending with the little party was Friday.

We arranged to meet at 930 on Saturday to maybe go somewhere else to take advantage of the car before they all went back to Chetumal. Lars and Miriam were heading towards Cancun airport to get flight back in a week, Youri was crossing into Belize that night (he sent me some photos he took of me and i asked him and he had made it across but it was a bit of a nightmare and he was apparently stuck in Corozal, hopefully only for the day because it was Sunday or something) and I'm not quite sure where Mischa was going but I know he had Guatemala as a target.

Anyway, didnt sleep great but not too badly - half wish I hadnt had the extra michelada, these were great big ones with gobs of sticky goo round the rim by the way -  and we met up and went to Becan. This is where we saw the big spiders.

To be honest, in some ways this was actually cooler than Calakmul. It was if anything even quieter. The weather was borderline a bit warm at times but then Id find some breeze and it was quite nice.

Lars and Mischa went underneath one of the structures down some narrow stairwell and aparently it was alternating these little narrow passageways with big open spaces (probably structural) the whole length.

We left about 1 and drove back to Xpujil and they dropped me off and we said goodbye etc. Swapped email addresses with Lars who says he may have some photos of me.

I then went back to accom and no one was at reception so I faffef around and eventually maybe managed to save a few pesos by booking the nights accom direct with them. I then went off exploring for a cash machine, and then also trogged over to Xpujil ruins which I had pretty much to myself. I was feeling pretty knackered but they were small and gven the difficulty of getting to X I figured it would be a shame not to see them when they were right there.

I spent the evening faffing trying to find how to get out of X as already I think noted.

So while I have probably missed some details, that is probably the broad outline of the missing stuff. I can always make little random notes as stuff occurs to me in future, if it does.

Back is hurting a bit. Legs also from all the walking and climbing on the ruins. I need to try to decide where I am going next, maybe even Catazaja if there is accom - it looks like there are super cool lake(s) there on the map. If the dorm is OK I am willing to extend a night here in order to just hang out and try to relax a bit.

Not blaming them but none of those guys from the Calakmul (I am probably getting name wrong but not checking guide book or map right now) trip are doing slow travel. I too wanted to be on and doing with the ruins while the chance was there but I also now need to relax a little bit.

I do feel a bit headachey but I suspect it will improve with relaxation and sleep and maybe yet more water.

Pacing around yawning a bit. I dont really like wearing the reading glasses ut they are best for this sort of typing.

2006 Had three bananas over course of evening and feeling absolutely stuffed. Which seems odd given that apart from those two quesadilas I just had a handful of leftover small orange cookies on the bus. Maybe a side effect of poor diet lately. Or maybe the quesadillas were more filling than I quite realise. Have three more bananas but will probably put them in kitchen for tomorrow. I may also try to buy and eat some different fruit tomorrow as part of misc hanging around strategy.

2018 on sunlounger in astroturf garden. Gotr my bottle of fizzy water. Kitchen pretty busy with cooking so didn't try to slice up the limes and use them, left them in a cupboard with bananas and maybe be able to use them tomorrow.

If I didn't say they do have free drinking water here.

2122 watched a video. Was yawning and half falling asleep at points. Will probably move towards bed in 15ish mins.

2134 it is and has been a bit chilly out, put fleece on. Throat feels a tiny bit dry. Just had piss and water in bowl looks quite yellow, though I think less so than it has done at times (when even the stream has looked visibly yellow). I suspect I may still be far from perfectly hydrated but I suspect things will improve over time if I am careful. Slight headache as I write this.

Vaguely edgy about going to bed but it should be fine. I feel pretty tired and I have bed by door and nothing stops me getting up in middle of night if I want.

Black trousers maybe not as comfortable as grey but then again this is the first time I have worn the black trousers in anger. They may well loosen up a bit with wear and they are not that bad. Nothing stops me wearing the grey nearly all the time if I really want to, though will try not to do that without giving the black a fair trial.

2142 OK, going to move towards bed. I plan to charge this phone in locker off power bank overnight so will post this now.

Bacalar, Wednesday

Wed 1024 Waiting for breakfast.

Didn't sleep that well. Woke up very sweaty and maybe a bit feverish quite a bit. Clearly not doing something as "faffy" as trying to get to chac. This sucks but if I am feeling under the weather that can't be helped. On plus side whether down to echidnea or not I don't obviously seem to have a cold.

It feels like forever since I've been well but of course it has been two nights and one full day. I can't help wondering if I'm getting "too old" but that is probably ridiculous and just the emotional shittiness of being ill.

1045 had breakfast. Forgot to say yday that "owner chap" is Spanish, had lived in Brighton for years and probably isn't owner as he is apparently just working here for the winter as he lives in a Gruyere-cheese 150 year old family house in Spain and it leaks like crazy. He was talking with us for part of the time last night.

I have fleece on BTW. I don't feel terrible right now. I think I may have been a bit hungry before. Right hip hurts a little but it does sometimes and that could easily be in part the tent mattress.

Left wrist hurts a bit and I do feel a slight but persistentish tension in chest.

FWIW just checked and there are no Tren Maya services from Chetuaml (airport, but I think that is the only Xhetumal stop) to Xpujil tomorrow, and I am guessing other days too but not checked, so using it as an alternative to buses with crappy after dark arrivals is not an option.

1119 checked booking and I probably could extend here another night. On one hand this is feeling a bit silly. OTOH I am mildly ill and need to hole up somewhere and I am here and at least it is cheap. I do wonder if the tent is making it worse but maybe not and it is at least private and I can shuffle and sweat and get up in the night etc without disturbing anyone.

Stomach feels a bit rough, don't know why. Coffee is not sitting very well. I was going to have a shower but I kind of can't face drying odd with never properly dry viscose towel - stuff is just not drying well in this climate with no real sun, I guess.

Trouble is that all the remaining stuff I maybe want to do here like chac and ixcabel is "hard" /stressful enough that I don't want to do it feeling shit. I half wonder if i ahould eg go on to chetumal and get an aircon private with a proper bes and maybe wander round the town a little bit which is probably not so big a deal while feeling under the weather, then maybe come back here. But would I come back here? And would I have the balls to do these "hard" things? Also it feels like just maybe -though I have not mentioned it, since I am not sure I am well enough -I might find someone here to split cost of a taxi to ixcabel or something.

1306 have extended another night so now leaving Fri. This in some ways feels like I am wasting time but if I am ill I am ill and at least it is cheap. I hope being in the tent isn't making it worse but it probably isn't. At least it is private. Had rather crappy phone call with mum asking her opinion on this and got mostly platitudes about how it is nicer to be in a room etc, she clearly has the wrong end of the stick about where I am (acting like it is the middle of nowhere). She did seen to think being in nicer surrounding might help me get better quicker but was hardly very definite. And I also suspect she imagines it to be harsher here than it is. And I do at least have the shared fridge and quite nice gadden which I wouldn't have in a hotel or something.

Going to go for a bit of a walk.

I do also kind of wonder if somewhat irrationally I am going to be bored/sick of Bacalar by the time I am better and not want to stay and faff with these possible excursions. I
maybe can't spell it but I couldn't find anything about Ixcabel on web.  But then the other night when sitting on public pier I was thinking it would be good to stay an extra night and go for another swim and so on before moving on.

1636 Back after lying on bed. I went out for a little bit of a wander. I took my fleece with me. I've had it on. I was feeling a bit cold. I wandered down to the Muele Munisipal, which is next to the other public pier. This one just had a muddy path down to the small area at the side of the lake. It's practically next to the other pier, but it only costs 10 pesos to go into this one, although it's not as nice. Anyway, I did it just for something to do.

I actually started to feel warm at this point, so I took the fleece off. I wasn't sure what to do. It started to spit slightly, so I thought I'd maybe go and get some fruit or something. Actually, what I kind of thought was maybe I could get something healthy-ish to eat, but that was going to be a bit satisfying. If it wasn't too much fuss, I might cook myself some rice, but I really don't want to get into that. Anyway, I went down to Darleny and I thought, Well, buy some bread and ham and have some sandwiches, but there were no prices on anything. So I trogged down into town to one of the supermarkets near El Valiente and I got some there, I broke a 500, trogged back to the hostel and have had a couple of sandwiches. Walking into town and back wasn't agonising but it felt like an effort. So I guess I'm definitely not 100% and yes it probably isn't a good idea for me to be going trying to get off to Chac or whatever.

I am feeling a bit fed up, but as I've probably said, endlessly, I've only actually been sick for a day or two, it just feels like forever. There's no reason to think I won't be feeling better soon, maybe even tomorrow, who knows. And there's nothing I can do about it.

Did notice earlier - I have a photo and a video - that was actually a kind of little lizard hiding inside one of the outer bits of the tent structure. The fabric must double back on itself to make a sort of tunnel, perhaps around a pole or something. I'm not sure. And you can see from one side there's the shadow of this lizard, but it is inside because if you look around the other side it's not there at all.

1928 on terrace. Had shower and cleaned teeth. Decided not to change top or socks. Since I only have one dirty top I am not going to wash tonight.

Not feeling terrible but stomach vaguely bloaty. Yes had 8ish sandwiches but still, not ideal. Some loose bms but really solid one first thing this morning. May go to bed in an hour or so.

2215 Back in the tent, I was just intending to sit on the terrace and read for a little bit with some water and then go to bed early, but I ended up speaking to a German guy who's off back home tomorrow. He has spent a lot of time in Guatemala and I'm seriously tempted - it's something I'd sort lf considered anyway - to do maybe a two-week loop from Palenque through Flores, Tikal and Yakche?. I haven't got forever but you know there's probably time for that if I ever start feeling better. I feel a bit headachey but maybe talking with people has distracted me. I'm blowing a bit hot and cold on it anyway, we'll see.

I also spoke with the Dutch guy from last night, whose name is Yuri, and anyway, he's off to Belize tomorrow. He was telling me about Rapidos de Vacalar, and he cycled down there, which I don't think I would really want to do, but could maybe get a taxi, and apparently you can put life jacket on and float down the rapids, or you can hire a kayak apparently, it's only 100 I mean obviously if I'm not feeling very well blah blah blah but it's a possibility although I can almost kind of feel myself just wanting to get away from here if I start to feel better or that's a bit irrational.

He also said there might be a collectivo from here to Xpujil. So maybe I should ask a reception about that tomorrow.

Although it feels a bit of a shame I am kind of thinking and some of the conversation tonight has sort of reinforced some of my existing thoughts that you can only see so many ruins and whilel maybe seeing some of the more off the beaten track ones might be more exciting it's not worth getting bent out shape trying to see everything. I'm potentially going to see something near Xpujil and maybe Tikal and also while the can't find details anyway "new" Ixcabel might be cool, chac itself is only off the beaten track for me here as a non driver - it is frequently and trivially accessed by cruise passengers on tours from the cruise port.

Anyway, bed. If I do feel 90%+ in the morning I will probably toy with rapid more than an excursion to chac but we'll see how it looks in the morning.

Bacalar, Tuesday

Tue 1023 On terrace waiting for breakfast. Feel a bit fragile. I didn't sleep that well. Kept waking up and rolling over and feeling sweaty yet cold. At one point knew I ought to drink some water and take aine ibuprofen but it too( ne maybe minutes (maybe longer) to summon the energy. I don't say I could not try a solo trip to chac but I am not feeling great and it just feels stupid to push it. It is a shame to be having a eest day so early in the trip but it might be nice tovputter round and hopefully feel better. I may also be able to sort laundry out given last night's shower and not washing anything threw me out a bit. 1357 On terrace with bluetooth keyboard. I feel crap but I think better. Right now I feel hot and sweaty, wearing just ls top. Earlier I was sat here wearing fleece and feeling a tiny bit chilly. Weater forecast shows tems like 27-29C. I atebreakfast very gingerly while listening to three Spanish speaking women (one from Barcelona) and the owner chap talking. I felt the tiniest bit BNM byt there were talking about politics - two are anthropologists, the other studied it, they were moaning about the "rise of the right" and how their president (Millei? Spanish president?) was trying to cut money for sociology type stuff and chuntering generally about indigeous protection policies and so forth and while it was sort of cool that I could understand them I had not the least desire to join in, especially as I was feeling fragile. I had shaved and showered before breakfast. After I decided to go put sunblock on and maybe walk down to the public pier but serously mustering the energy to do that was an effort. I genuinely felt like I was tottering around. I was and am struggling to remember that yesterday afternoon I felt happy and healthy. I went out for a walk and bought a sugary soft drink at corner abbarrote but it started to rain and I did not want to get wet again so i turned bac before i got to public pier. I then sat on the terrace with my fleece on and drank my Fresca Toronja feeling vaguely shit. It is fine, I a intellectually aware that my low mood is because I feel /unwell and it is unlikely I will coninue to feel this bad. It could be all sorts but I have to assume for now it is an after effect of the cold and semi-not eating yesterday. My muscles feel sore as fuck. I took two ibuprofen after having Fresca Toronja. I extended for another night. I havent been out to try to tal to the woman t that booth near fort about tour to Chac, I do not want to risk feeling like shit tomorrow. if I feel good i can try for a self tour, if not I guess I will just have another day bummng around. I am not exactly counting, but I think I need to put today down to the "rest/illness/recuperation" rather than "visiting Bacalar". It is a shame but it is what it is and it would be stupid to push myself too hard when I feel crap right near the start of the trip. It was slightly cool to be sitting here with the rain dripping off the roof earlier, albeit a shame I am not choosing to do it voluntarily. I got a change of sheets and then stupidly got dirt on them off my shoes while changing them. Woman at reception offered to do it but there is so much crap all over floor I thought it best to do it myself. I really need to be more diligent about taking shoes off before going in to tent despite how faffy it is when not wearing flip flops. I stayed on in tent as i didnt want to miss out (booking suggests they may be relatively short on tent spaces) and it does at least offer privacy if I need to toss and turn in the night. booking suggests the dorms are near empty and prices are similar and if I really wanted I suspect I could swap to a dorm for tomorrow night (or even tonight) for free or a nominal cost, but haven't asked. dorm beds might be more comfortable of course Went out for fruit and got some limes (which I am going to have in a minute with some chilled sparking water) and bananas and apples. I still have the half pizza from yesterday and I think I wll be able to eat that later. Obviously this muscle achey stuff could be any or a mix of things like: - old age - this weird "illness" from getting cold - "uncomfortable" mattress in tent As I say I dont feel super right now but I probably am feeling better. Woman at reception offered me a blanket when I got a change of sheets which may be handy. Given how funny I felt I genuinely wasnt sure if I was hot or cold at parts during the night but I did put my fleece over me as a sort of blanket at one point and I think that helped. I am dithering - and havent looked online at booking etc yet - what to do next. Arguably if these days are just written off to sickness not "Bacalar", it would make sense to stay here an extra day past however long it takes me to feel better to try a self tour to Chac, given that was my plan. On the other hand (and no ideal what accom is available) if I could get a cheapish private room in Chetumal (a nice short one bus hop, though maybe a bit enough place getting from bus terminal to accom is a faff) or in Xjwhatsit (a double bus hop, but probably not too hard) maybe with aircon for some affordable pseudo-luxury after this time in a tent that might be nice. Or even a comfortable dorm might be nice if I am feeling better. I could maybe see the appeal of the "urban" charms of Chetumal (museums, wandering round parks) instead of trogging off to archeological sights and doing tours at Xjwhatsit - ie would maybe do Chetumal then go on to Xjwhatsit. But I have no idea what Chetumal is like and it may not be very appealing and if I am feeling 95% recovered a double bus hop is not a huge deal. Wrt the slow travel, I would like to not race round too much, but I would also like to see Chiapas and Tabasco which may be cheaper and less touristy and I do see some value in doing *relatively* long bus trips between my relatively long stays in each place. 1421 Had an apple. Not feeling great but better enough I am toying with the Chac tour. However - and it isnt really about the money - it would be more of an adventure and good experience for future similar situations to do a solo attempt. And that hedges my bets wrt feeling shit tomorrow. It is odd, as I say I am very much not 100%, but I am starting to feel much better. 1425 Just had a slice of last night's pizza, which has been in the fridge. I didn't absolutely wolf it down but did eat it with a lot more zest and comfort than I remember eating last night or breakfast this morning. I could imagine (hope) waking up tomorrow feeling so much better. 1433 Having some sparkling water with freshly squeezed lime. Vague idea the vitamin C may help. If I didnt already say in bed this morning I was kind of thinking "I suppose I maybe could do the self tour attempt today" but I think I had pretty much decided I wasn't going to. And really I think the way I was tottering around the hostel on getting up and when I went out for that abortive walk to public pier earlier means I did the right thing. The self tour vaguely scares me but it did before and that is not illness related. No way am I swimming today. I just may wander down to the public pier weather permitting for a wander. I am still wearing the bracelet from the first day and am curious to know if it is still valid. Earlier the idea of eating tacos sort of appalled me, but I am now sort of feeling 50-50 about maybe doing down to El Valiente, albeit perhaps for just a couple. It may be that poor diet has been a factor in feeling bad today. I dont know. But today I guess the fruit is something and the hostel breakfast is probably not that bad. 2223 So I met a Canadian chap called Rob, who's on an open-ended trip, and has just recovered from Dengue, which was quite interesting. We chanted for a bit and then he went off to get find his old towel, and I went down to the public pier to just wander, not trying to swim. Woman at desk was a bit suspicious when I showed her my brace look but she asked me in Spanish if I'd been in that morning and I said si so , and she didn't make a fuss. Rob says the bracelet colour is the same every day. I then wandered down into town. I wasn't going to eat, but El Valiente wasn't open. I mainly wanted to break a 500 at supermarkets. I bought a bigish bottle of sparkling water. I wanted to make sure I had plenty of smallish bills to try and head off problems with change if I do do the chat trip tomorrow. Also remember to use a few of accumulating coins for the non round part of price. I came back, had a shower, did some laundry, before the shower. Feeling a tiny bit chilly and maybe a tiny bit sick but not too bad. I sat on the terrace and was just eating I ate some pizza and finished it. I met Rob again and a Dutch guy whose name I don't know and we had a bit of a chat. I was getting a tickle at the back of my throat and Rob said, There is a cold going round and before we went to bed and he said to do it after I cleaned my teeth he gave me some echinea. Fingers crossed. I had been assuming that the tickle at the back of the throat was maybe a dehydration from yesterday but who knows. He also told me about Ixqabal, which is apparently as near to here as anywhere else, so I may end up staying on here longer to see if I can go there, though apparently it's another taxi deal. It only opened to the public in January this year apparently. Throat feels a bit funny. I'm just going to have to see how it goes tomorrow. Obviously I can only wait and see how I feel in the morning and play it by ear, no point running myself down and getting overly stressed out. I had a quick look about onward trips. There are only two buses a day from Chetumal to Xjpil. One gets in at like 1.40 in the morning, the other one gets in at 7.40 at night. I'd probably have to take that one. Maybe if I can see Ishkabel, then I decide not to do xjpil. I think I'd probably stay in Chetumal for a day or two, given the awkward departure time, although given checkout's gonna be before then, maybe it's not great. Anyway, I guess it's just something I've checked out, so... And maybe this would be a worthwhile opportunity to use the Tren Maya if it has been times. Or, as I say, maybe just not go to Xjpil.

2223 Sending this now and then I'll try to go to sleep.

Bacalar, Monday

Sun 2145 Just done bloody Duolingo after seeing reminder e-mail. (I dont have the app on either of my phones and am using the web browser version.)

Anyway, lets leave terrace and go clean teeth and go to bed etc.

Mon 0737 In bed, I hadn't slept up brilliantly, kept waking up every few hours, not in a really bad way but just did keep waking up. I thought it had rained at some point and I didn't really think and then a few hours later I woke up and I thought it rained some more. So I got up in middle of the night and I went to the toilet after taking down the underwear from the line outside the tent. I don't think it had rain, I suspect it was like dry leaves falling on the canvas above the tent or something.

I had the fan on a bit during the night for the novelty as much as anything it wasn't tremendously hot anyway it was sort of nice I couldn't really angle it but in such a small space the breeze bounces around I thought it might keep mosquitoes down it's not like I'm seeing a lot of them but I do feel I've got a few bites and I thought it might help I don't know.

Forgot to say yesterday there is actually a Limones-Chachoben station on the Tren Maya. I haven't actually checked the timetables yet but I think I had a quick look at where the station is and yeah it is in Limonos so it's like it's an additional option compared to going by bus but it doesn't necessarily help that much because if there's nowhere to stay in Limonos and I couldn't find anywhere then so what and I don't think the train is going to run so frequently or so absolutely reliably that I really want to be getting a taxi (I assume) over to the station here in Bacalar, doing a day trip to Limones and then getting a taxi both ways to and from Chachoben. Maybe something to check up on again later.

As I say, I'm still in bed and I don't really want to decide now, but I'm kind of leaning towards the camping five kilometers outside town. It's a bit of an adventure. The sunrise might be nice. It might be a bit captive audience for food. Food might be a bit problematic given how picky I am, but it does sound kind of cool. Of course, going to either of the places here isn't incompatible with trying to do something to see Chachogan, but I'm kind of thinking, although I might look into Chachogan a little bit more, I'm losing a bit of faith that I can do it, and in any case, going to one of the places here, probably the one five kilometers out of town, is obviously fairly easy from here, and I can still, if I find something out or talk to someone, I do some more research or have a brainwave, I can always try and get to church open afterwards.

I think you can probably see these last few paragraphs have been very slack with voice typing. I'm not making such an effort to go back and put punctuation in or fix the spellings of places or whatever and they're a bit waffly. But this is just a quick note from bed and I thought better to get this out even in a slightly crappy form than to forget to mention it again later on or something like that.

0811 I should probably get up. I'm kind of lying in bed and it's not super enjoyable. It's kind of nice but not great. You know, I'm feeling a little bit what to do exactly blah blah.

On the bus here, as I think I said, there was that superhero eternals kind of film. And then there was some trolls film about a boy band. I did sort of half-watch that as well. This is playing on a screen at the front of the bus and the sound is on the bus speakers. And I was actually very well positioned to see the screen, including the subtitle. It's all in Spanish, but dubbed in Spanish and subtitled in Spanish. Actually, it's not all subtitled. I think it's subtitled in Spanish when there's English or foreign language text on screen or something so maybe most of it is just spoken, because there were one or two bits I didn't catch and that's probably why, whereas if there'd been subtitles I probably would. I can't actually remember now.

Anyway, after that was a film about Mexican wildlife that I didn't really watch very much, but I did see there was some footage of tarantulas doing a sort of courtship dance thingy, and it was actually quite interesting.

I should probably not try to give a blow-by-blow account, but maybe it will help my thinking if I just say this. I'm kind of wondering if probably not today given it's not late but not super early, I should maybe check the bus timetables and or the train timetables and go over to Limones. And then get a taxi from there over to the ruins and back maybe try an Uber or something like that. I'd need to check that Chachoban was actually open that day. I hope there's an official website for that. I'm flip-flopping, on the one hand, it's like, as long as I know I can get back to Baccala where my accommodation is, I might waste the day travelling and burn, you know, double digit pounds on buses and most likely on taxis. But maybe I'd get to see Chachoban and it would be a bit of an adventure. On the other hand, especially if there is no accommodation there I find it only too easy to see myself getting over there and getting stranded or being at the pyramids and not being able to get back to limones in time because I'm struggling for transport because no one goes who isn't on one of these cruise oriented tours from Costa Maya.

0929 on terrace. Looking re chac. https://www.locogringo.com/things-to-do/mayan-ruins/chacchoben-ruins-costa-maya is clearly old with its 2015 update, but it makes it sound a bit like the site will be overrun with cruise groups.

Haven't found an official page about the site at all. ADO has a terminal in Limones near the train station, the train ticket booking site seems to be down so I can't check the timetable.  I suppose I could look at ADO timetables and see the feasibility of popping over to Limones to see how the land lies. I am not likely to be going today.

It is quite grey and pleasantly cool but a tiny bit miserable looking and it may rain - not checked forecast but did see it yesterday when checking UV before I went to swim.

Looking at weather.com forecast, it looks like it could well be pretty cloudy for next day or two, which is obviously not great wrt seeing sunrise I guess.

Right hip hurts quite badly for first time in a while. Maybe the swimming or maybe I slept on it badly.

0949 right, ado site shows no seat availability today or tomorrow to Limones. I suspect this just means there is no bus between here and there. There is a bus from here to Xpujil (sp) but it leaves at 2355 and gets in at 1 or 2 am. There are regular buses from here to Tulum all day. (The big fucker with the onscreen keyboard is that the autocorrect will just irreversibly destroy meaning by turning Tulum into Tokyo or MXN150 in a price note into some random word if you don't watch it like a hawk.) I think there are no buses from here to Campeche.

I am feeling I may have painted myself into a bit of a corner in terms of onward travel  it isn't the end of the world, worst case is I have to waste time and money going back to Tulum and on from there. Maybe Tren Maya will help.

I think rather than being down some of these sites are just blocking my VPN in an unclear way, which isn't helpful.

1001 OK, there are loads of services to Christmas, which is what I meant instead of Campeche. ADO have loads. So *maybe* that would be a good next stop or I could change there for a service to Xpujil. R2r says the only direct services here to Xpujil are late night and I'd really rather not do that.

Breakfast not bad.

Seriously torn about just trogging over to bus terminal now and seeing if I can get a bus to Limones and see what happens as a day trip. But it feels horribly rushed.

1006 if r2r is to be believed - and this is a n obscureish route - the next bus to Limones is 1240 today. There are (again if it is correct) buses back quite late, including after dark (tolerable at a pinch - push comes to shove I could get a taxi or uber right to hostel door if dogs are a problem).

If I pretend - and this is a way over-simplified Ott version of my dont hate round idea and taking vague inspiration from slow travel mocement (I am not "one of them", I just read some stuff when trying to find philosophy etc)  - I have all the time in the world, it feels a bit like I ought to stay here Tue night (given I don't rate chances of sunrise in next day or two, negating a lot of value in the two alternate hostels nearby, which I might consider later), have a semi puttering day here, maybe swimming and going over to bus terminal to see what I can find out, and then tomorrow strike out earlyish for a day trip to Limones. If I can get to chac that is great, if not is might be nice to wander around linones which must have at least a restaurant or something given it has an ado terminal etc.

Chac may or may not be worth it even if I do get there but this whole process of going may be a kind of adventure. It would also maybe fill in a little time while I see if the weather improves re sunrise viewing.

FWIW I just checked uber and right now there is no option for service limones to chac archeological zone, so if I did go it would probably have to be a taxi or (unlikely) some sort of local bus or tour (but I doubt such exists, given you'd expect a tourist business like that to have some online presence).

Am I going to have deathbed regrets I maybe "waste" another 2-3 days hanging around in Bacalar and environs? No. It is also valuable experimentation and experience with not charging around like crazy. Am I quietly enjoying it here? Yes, I guess so. Free coffee would be nice but if I did nothing else (and not saying I would) I could go out and buy myself a jqr of instant and boil water on kitchen stove or go out and get a big bottle of soft drink and spend the day sitting on the terrace reading or planning or studying.

FWIW while better to spread it out than do it say after day then not for weeks, being here also let's me swim and anything is better than nothing wrt keeping up.

I will probably *not* ask about extending another nifht just yet. Gut feeling is I am going to go put shoes on, head out and see if I can book a boat tour - I am not that desperate and I suspect it is a bit tedious but it is about seven quid and it would be something "done" with the day and it might be cool - and also probably wander over to bus terminal and see about buses to Limones or chetumal or wherever.

1020 booking. Com shows 2 tents (maybe more) and 8 dorm beds free here for a check in tomorrow for one night, so I dont expect to have trouble extending in a few hours time.

1939 on terrace. Today actually quite successful except I think I made myself I'll. I a  going to take this easy and just write up what I can.

Left hostel a bit after 11. I walked over to area with bus terminals. Ado seemed shut. One guy just didn't seem interested in selling me anything. Despite an unpromising start (he just wandered off and I wasnt sure if he was going to come back) a guy at Forneos told me there was a service (perhaps a minibus, not sure) to Limones every 40ish mins and it is about 60-70 (I can't remember) each way. I asked if chac was oflpen and about getting a taxi there from Limones and he didn't really know but wasn't entirely dismissive, just not going to come himself.

So I started to think I might have a good at a aolo chac trip tomorrow. I still might but going to wait and see how I feel and I probably won't set an alarm.

1946 so I then having seen it on map and looked at net (probably all really out of date info) and walled down lakefront rowd right past cenote negro/black. Could not find any pedestrian access, let alone free aa suggested. Did at least spot a couple of hotels nearby doing kayak rental. This fy a bit of a failure but since I did look at it probably is the case there is just no public access any more I could not have done any better. There is some possibility of going down there one day to try hiring a kayak but I am far from sure.

I then came back into town and spoke to the woman that the tourist booth near the fort selling boat tours. I asked her about it - two chances to swim about 2-2.5h, different boat types have different cover bit tourbis aame. I either but having been told {and has seen thos before) that there are no tours wed and I did kind of have time, I booked for the 400 boat (should have been 450, cheaper boat is 350) at 1500 - about 1.5h in future, 1400 seemed too soon and I was thinking 1500 better wrt uv given not allowed sunblock.

PH, I got four bananas at whop near bus terminals and ate them during walk down to cenote negro. Glad I sis.

El valiente was closed when I walked back from booking tour (I paid a 100deposit BTW}  so couldn't go in. I paid for an extra night (the night) at hostel when got back and ditherily prepped and headed down to kiosk where hqs arranged to meet for collection at 1450.

Quite nice chat with woman, also despite feeling nervous I tried to imagine the face in the fort tower was being smoly for me. Worry was mainly about getting back for diner before dark.

A slightly suspicious but actually nice oldish battery gut came up - istr he said his name was marquestita, as he had just finished (a career)?  Selling them - it is a local desert. I was feeling bit edgy but talked oniahly with him @ns bervea were more general than about him.

I asked woman about xhac and she said there is a tour wed sat and sun! 800 per person if more than one, 1200 for one person  I can in theory go and talk to her about this tomorrow. I was thinking I would probably try it solo tomorrow and if that falls through maybe see about this tour.

A guy came to pick me up in truck to take me over to boat, we chatted a bit (he in English me in Spanish to practice for both of us) and then we got pnboat. Captain Antonio I think, boat was something like Ketzal (with a K) - may have a picture. About four English speakers (actually German couple and some other solo guyof unknown nqtionqlity) andmaybe 5-6 Spanish (mostly mexican I think) speakers.

It started to piss down when i was driving with that guy over to boat. Tried to be cheerful and mostly succeeded butlong story short I felt wet and frezingnost of the time and I suspect I was hunched up and havecramped a lot of muscles etc. I did go in the water (with lifejacket - likemoat people)  at each of the two stops though only about 10-15 mins at first (I did crappy breast strokebround boat twice and floated and kicked a bit) and about three mins at final one (didn't want to waste opp plus I thought some exercise might warm blme up given water is not actually that cold, albiet not super warm.)

I stupidly didn't take rain coat or fleece or trousers (for after) etc - otog I don't seen to remember doing this during panama Kuna trip but maybe it was somehow warmer. I tried to dry myself off etc and the captain saw I was shovering a bit and gave me a dry life jacket at one point. We has a bit of fruit after the first swim.

Tipped 50 at end and put wet but had tried to wrong it oushirt on ansttrogged off through lgight rain to hostel. I waant feeling awful but not terrible - exercise prob helping. I got back and think lot of people chatting on terrace but I just wanted to get into a hot shower. I took a while edore my dingers stoppedbfeeling vaguely stiff.

Ice had a sort of small wound on tip of right Second to little finger for a few days and fumbling for stiff in day-pack during tour I ended up somehow getting some green pus to come out. To be fair it actually perhaps huts less than it sos. Just may not some germolene on.

When got back the rain picked up a bit so I crawled into tent feelingmildly shit and musxle crampey but didn't want to go out for dinner in rain (could have put jacket etc on but wanted to keep thesry for maybe trip tomorrow). To give myself credit I was being reasonably positive, all part of tourist experience etc but was feeling quite ahit.

Rain alowed down and asked owner chap where I could go for f{od and he told me about the piZa place and this time it was open. I was caredul not to gorgeyself and make myself sick, but I ordered a xhica pizza and I think (me\uring with hand span and finger) it was a 12". I ate half of it and got the rest to bring back in a box - was roying with oddering it to people but no one was or has been on t erra e since I got back and Ice put it in first. I asked if woman could change a 500 and she could so for that pkuabsaving me from dying ogunfer i tipped her 40. I also got a 600ml full day coke to bring back and it is in fridge now.

My muscles ache a bit and I don't feel great but not too bad. I may have some of the coke in a minute. Probably earlyish night. I am not going to set an alarm and I will play it by ear what I do tomorrow. I made an effort today and while I would like to try limones chac solo I need to treat myself with respect and not force myself if I stilfeel shit tonorrow as i sont want to get run down. Deliverately not thinkg about it. If l want to I can maybe splurge on the tour I found out about or I can try it on my own on Wednesday - uvhavw time and don't need to fuxk? yself level by charging around I'd I feel under the weather. That isn't slack, it's just smart.

Since I got sick I haven't checke|s tonight as I pka! Es but 90% sure I can fet an easy frequent bus here to xhetunal and either put in a night or two there or change same say for an onward bua to say xjpil.

No problem walking back from pia (ONLY ABOUT TWO BLOCKS) after dark, albeit nega Kate. Walked in nisskeishofbroqs ("middle of road" to show what I am facing wrt onscreen keyboard) but moved for the odd car, more against dogs than muggers.

2009bhavingbbit of xoke. Yay for b instead of space. Not feeling great but not terrible. Kudos for bashing all this out ak I am not falling behind with blog.

Took o6 k  boat in case it got lost rho p7 is non-inally waterproof somifht have been better given rain spray on screen causingprpvlems, but was a mistake worried about losing ot overboard.

Didn't really speak to anyone during tour but don't think anyone else who wasn't already with someone did either sis aay goodbye to everyone as I acaepered off the dock to get home.

If I didn't already say I probably wasn't going to suffer long term I) e%ects from feeling so cold, but it did *feel* pretty bad. I did fairly well trying to be poaitivebans upbeat and eg look forward to hot shower and make the most of it etc and not freak out about food and rain and dark.

Of, on way back to hostel after bookifntour I tried to break an old 500 in willys and they just flat declined it. I went in a tinylittle alborote? Shop and straight out showed the nice-ish oldish local woman the note and asked if she could change it. She tested it and said yes  I asked if she had change as I didn't want to buy a lot and  she did disappear off with note after this but she came back. I picked a few not great snacks (with a view to taking them to chac tomorrow on self tour and also, foresightedly, in case I couldn't eat tonight hot after tour) for about 35 or maybe 60 and a boy had come up to counter and told me what they came to and I said thelady hasny note and he asked I'd I was English and what the word for caballo was (I knew yay) in English  and I explained the note was old because it was from when I was here 12 years ago (althis on spabiah) ans he seemed genuinely somehow impressed i asked him how old he was and he was 11 so maybe that explains it though I might expect a 11 year old to be more cynical. I got my change and (at least such was my intention) thanked him (saying it to both of them)  for talking to me and left and that felt oddly nice, even though the snacks I'd got were a tiny bit expensive and not really what I wanted. Maybe a little memory for me, and I'd like to imagine he got the lady (presimably his mum) to show him the old note after.

All my laundry outside tent got soaked un downpour during tour. Rookie mistake *esp* after seeing weather fotecaat other day when i waa thinking about seeing sunrise over lake. But cant be helped. I have left it out tonight outaide tent and if it doesnt rain in night maybe it will dry (not just the two tops i wshed yday but also damp clothes from tour today).  If not dependinf how i feel and what i do and when i get up i may see if i can hang it under cover round by the clothes washing sink tomorrow morning.

The autocorrect seems to hace just gone shit. I am sober, to be clear.  OK, I has somehow accidentally switched to Spanish mode. Not going back to fix up, think it is mostly readable. OK did fix it up a bit.

We saw cenote negro on tour and I think captaon said all the houses round it are on airbnb and I didn't see any obvious public access from road. It is also a tiny bit forbidsing looking with the black water and being 90m deep (not sure about edge) and being open to the lake (all the cenotes here are apparently open not closed) and this is another reason why I am reluctant to follow up on poss of doing kayak in cenote negro from one of those hotels nearby I saw on this mornings tour, and why I suspect info i found online was outdated rather than me making mistakes.

2030 OK had half coke and going to clean teeth and go to bed. Feel OK if still bit achey and a touch chilly, though it is really quite pleasant out and just wearing trousers, dull shoes and socks and long sleeved top (no fleece).

2048 in bed.

Sun 2145 Just done bloody Duolingo after seeing reminder e-mail. (I dont have the app on either of my phones and am using the web browser version.)

Anyway, lets leave terrace and go clean teeth and go to bed etc.

Mon 0737 In bed, I hadn't slept up brilliantly, kept waking up every few hours, not in a really bad way but just did keep waking up. I thought it had rained at some point and I didn't really think and then a few hours later I woke up and I thought it rained some more. So I got up in middle of the night and I went to the toilet after taking down the underwear from the line outside the tent. I don't think it had rain, I suspect it was like dry leaves falling on the canvas above the tent or something.

I had the fan on a bit during the night for the novelty as much as anything it wasn't tremendously hot anyway it was sort of nice I couldn't really angle it but in such a small space the breeze bounces around I thought it might keep mosquitoes down it's not like I'm seeing a lot of them but I do feel I've got a few bites and I thought it might help I don't know.

Forgot to say yesterday there is actually a Limones-Chachoben station on the Tren Maya. I haven't actually checked the timetables yet but I think I had a quick look at where the station is and yeah it is in Limonos so it's like it's an additional option compared to going by bus but it doesn't necessarily help that much because if there's nowhere to stay in Limonos and I couldn't find anywhere then so what and I don't think the train is going to run so frequently or so absolutely reliably that I really want to be getting a taxi (I assume) over to the station here in Bacalar, doing a day trip to Limones and then getting a taxi both ways to and from Chachoben. Maybe something to check up on again later.

As I say, I'm still in bed and I don't really want to decide now, but I'm kind of leaning towards the camping five kilometers outside town. It's a bit of an adventure. The sunrise might be nice. It might be a bit captive audience for food. Food might be a bit problematic given how picky I am, but it does sound kind of cool. Of course, going to either of the places here isn't incompatible with trying to do something to see Chachogan, but I'm kind of thinking, although I might look into Chachogan a little bit more, I'm losing a bit of faith that I can do it, and in any case, going to one of the places here, probably the one five kilometers out of town, is obviously fairly easy from here, and I can still, if I find something out or talk to someone, I do some more research or have a brainwave, I can always try and get to church open afterwards.

I think you can probably see these last few paragraphs have been very slack with voice typing. I'm not making such an effort to go back and put punctuation in or fix the spellings of places or whatever and they're a bit waffly. But this is just a quick note from bed and I thought better to get this out even in a slightly crappy form than to forget to mention it again later on or something like that.

0811 I should probably get up. I'm kind of lying in bed and it's not super enjoyable. It's kind of nice but not great. You know, I'm feeling a little bit what to do exactly blah blah.

On the bus here, as I think I said, there was that superhero eternals kind of film. And then there was some trolls film about a boy band. I did sort of half-watch that as well. This is playing on a screen at the front of the bus and the sound is on the bus speakers. And I was actually very well positioned to see the screen, including the subtitle. It's all in Spanish, but dubbed in Spanish and subtitled in Spanish. Actually, it's not all subtitled. I think it's subtitled in Spanish when there's English or foreign language text on screen or something so maybe most of it is just spoken, because there were one or two bits I didn't catch and that's probably why, whereas if there'd been subtitles I probably would. I can't actually remember now.

Anyway, after that was a film about Mexican wildlife that I didn't really watch very much, but I did see there was some footage of tarantulas doing a sort of courtship dance thingy, and it was actually quite interesting.

I should probably not try to give a blow-by-blow account, but maybe it will help my thinking if I just say this. I'm kind of wondering if probably not today given it's not late but not super early, I should maybe check the bus timetables and or the train timetables and go over to Limones. And then get a taxi from there over to the ruins and back maybe try an Uber or something like that. I'd need to check that Chachoban was actually open that day. I hope there's an official website for that. I'm flip-flopping, on the one hand, it's like, as long as I know I can get back to Baccala where my accommodation is, I might waste the day travelling and burn, you know, double digit pounds on buses and most likely on taxis. But maybe I'd get to see Chachoban and it would be a bit of an adventure. On the other hand, especially if there is no accommodation there I find it only too easy to see myself getting over there and getting stranded or being at the pyramids and not being able to get back to limones in time because I'm struggling for transport because no one goes who isn't on one of these cruise oriented tours from Costa Maya.

0929 on terrace. Looking re chac. https://www.locogringo.com/things-to-do/mayan-ruins/chacchoben-ruins-costa-maya is clearly old with its 2015 update, but it makes it sound a bit like the site will be overrun with cruise groups.

Haven't found an official page about the site at all. ADO has a terminal in Limones near the train station, the train ticket booking site seems to be down so I can't check the timetable.  I suppose I could look at ADO timetables and see the feasibility of popping over to Limones to see how the land lies. I am not likely to be going today.

It is quite grey and pleasantly cool but a tiny bit miserable looking and it may rain - not checked forecast but did see it yesterday when checking UV before I went to swim.

Looking at weather.com forecast, it looks like it could well be pretty cloudy for next day or two, which is obviously not great wrt seeing sunrise I guess.

Right hip hurts quite badly for first time in a while. Maybe the swimming or maybe I slept on it badly.

0949 right, ado site shows no seat availability today or tomorrow to Limones. I suspect this just means there is no bus between here and there. There is a bus from here to Xpujil (sp) but it leaves at 2355 and gets in at 1 or 2 am. There are regular buses from here to Tulum all day. (The big fucker with the onscreen keyboard is that the autocorrect will just irreversibly destroy meaning by turning Tulum into Tokyo or MXN150 in a price note into some random word if you don't watch it like a hawk.) I think there are no buses from here to Campeche.

I am feeling I may have painted myself into a bit of a corner in terms of onward travel  it isn't the end of the world, worst case is I have to waste time and money going back to Tulum and on from there. Maybe Tren Maya will help.

I think rather than being down some of these sites are just blocking my VPN in an unclear way, which isn't helpful.

1001 OK, there are loads of services to Christmas, which is what I meant instead of Campeche. ADO have loads. So *maybe* that would be a good next stop or I could change there for a service to Xpujil. R2r says the only direct services here to Xpujil are late night and I'd really rather not do that.

Breakfast not bad.

Seriously torn about just trogging over to bus terminal now and seeing if I can get a bus to Limones and see what happens as a day trip. But it feels horribly rushed.

1006 if r2r is to be believed - and this is a n obscureish route - the next bus to Limones is 1240 today. There are (again if it is correct) buses back quite late, including after dark (tolerable at a pinch - push comes to shove I could get a taxi or uber right to hostel door if dogs are a problem).

If I pretend - and this is a way over-simplified Ott version of my dont hate round idea and taking vague inspiration from slow travel mocement (I am not "one of them", I just read some stuff when trying to find philosophy etc)  - I have all the time in the world, it feels a bit like I ought to stay here Tue night (given I don't rate chances of sunrise in next day or two, negating a lot of value in the two alternate hostels nearby, which I might consider later), have a semi puttering day here, maybe swimming and going over to bus terminal to see what I can find out, and then tomorrow strike out earlyish for a day trip to Limones. If I can get to chac that is great, if not is might be nice to wander around linones which must have at least a restaurant or something given it has an ado terminal etc.

Chac may or may not be worth it even if I do get there but this whole process of going may be a kind of adventure. It would also maybe fill in a little time while I see if the weather improves re sunrise viewing.

FWIW I just checked uber and right now there is no option for service limones to chac archeological zone, so if I did go it would probably have to be a taxi or (unlikely) some sort of local bus or tour (but I doubt such exists, given you'd expect a tourist business like that to have some online presence).

Am I going to have deathbed regrets I maybe "waste" another 2-3 days hanging around in Bacalar and environs? No. It is also valuable experimentation and experience with not charging around like crazy. Am I quietly enjoying it here? Yes, I guess so. Free coffee would be nice but if I did nothing else (and not saying I would) I could go out and buy myself a jqr of instant and boil water on kitchen stove or go out and get a big bottle of soft drink and spend the day sitting on the terrace reading or planning or studying.

FWIW while better to spread it out than do it say after day then not for weeks, being here also let's me swim and anything is better than nothing wrt keeping up.

I will probably *not* ask about extending another nifht just yet. Gut feeling is I am going to go put shoes on, head out and see if I can book a boat tour - I am not that desperate and I suspect it is a bit tedious but it is about seven quid and it would be something "done" with the day and it might be cool - and also probably wander over to bus terminal and see about buses to Limones or chetumal or wherever.

1020 booking. Com shows 2 tents (maybe more) and 8 dorm beds free here for a check in tomorrow for one night, so I dont expect to have trouble extending in a few hours time.

1939 on terrace. Today actually quite successful except I think I made myself I'll. I a  going to take this easy and just write up what I can.

Left hostel a bit after 11. I walked over to area with bus terminals. Ado seemed shut. One guy just didn't seem interested in selling me anything. Despite an unpromising start (he just wandered off and I wasnt sure if he was going to come back) a guy at Forneos told me there was a service (perhaps a minibus, not sure) to Limones every 40ish mins and it is about 60-70 (I can't remember) each way. I asked if chac was oflpen and about getting a taxi there from Limones and he didn't really know but wasn't entirely dismissive, just not going to come himself.

So I started to think I might have a good at a aolo chac trip tomorrow. I still might but going to wait and see how I feel and I probably won't set an alarm.

1946 so I then having seen it on map and looked at net (probably all really out of date info) and walled down lakefront rowd right past cenote negro/black. Could not find any pedestrian access, let alone free aa suggested. Did at least spot a couple of hotels nearby doing kayak rental. This fy a bit of a failure but since I did look at it probably is the case there is just no public access any more I could not have done any better. There is some possibility of going down there one day to try hiring a kayak but I am far from sure.

I then came back into town and spoke to the woman that the tourist booth near the fort selling boat tours. I asked her about it - two chances to swim about 2-2.5h, different boat types have different cover bit tourbis aame. I either but having been told {and has seen thos before) that there are no tours wed and I did kind of have time, I booked for the 400 boat (should have been 450, cheaper boat is 350) at 1500 - about 1.5h in future, 1400 seemed too soon and I was thinking 1500 better wrt uv given not allowed sunblock.

PH, I got four bananas at whop near bus terminals and ate them during walk down to cenote negro. Glad I sis.

El valiente was closed when I walked back from booking tour (I paid a 100deposit BTW}  so couldn't go in. I paid for an extra night (the night) at hostel when got back and ditherily prepped and headed down to kiosk where hqs arranged to meet for collection at 1450.

Quite nice chat with woman, also despite feeling nervous I tried to imagine the face in the fort tower was being smoly for me. Worry was mainly about getting back for diner before dark.

A slightly suspicious but actually nice oldish battery gut came up - istr he said his name was marquestita, as he had just finished (a career)?  Selling them - it is a local desert. I was feeling bit edgy but talked oniahly with him @ns bervea were more general than about him.

I asked woman about xhac and she said there is a tour wed sat and sun! 800 per person if more than one, 1200 for one person  I can in theory go and talk to her about this tomorrow. I was thinking I would probably try it solo tomorrow and if that falls through maybe see about this tour.

A guy came to pick me up in truck to take me over to boat, we chatted a bit (he in English me in Spanish to practice for both of us) and then we got pnboat. Captain Antonio I think, boat was something like Ketzal (with a K) - may have a picture. About four English speakers (actually German couple and some other solo guyof unknown nqtionqlity) andmaybe 5-6 Spanish (mostly mexican I think) speakers.

It started to piss down when i was driving with that guy over to boat. Tried to be cheerful and mostly succeeded butlong story short I felt wet and frezingnost of the time and I suspect I was hunched up and havecramped a lot of muscles etc. I did go in the water (with lifejacket - likemoat people)  at each of the two stops though only about 10-15 mins at first (I did crappy breast strokebround boat twice and floated and kicked a bit) and about three mins at final one (didn't want to waste opp plus I thought some exercise might warm blme up given water is not actually that cold, albiet not super warm.)

I stupidly didn't take rain coat or fleece or trousers (for after) etc - otog I don't seen to remember doing this during panama Kuna trip but maybe it was somehow warmer. I tried to dry myself off etc and the captain saw I was shovering a bit and gave me a dry life jacket at one point. We has a bit of fruit after the first swim.

Tipped 50 at end and put wet but had tried to wrong it oushirt on ansttrogged off through lgight rain to hostel. I waant feeling awful but not terrible - exercise prob helping. I got back and think lot of people chatting on terrace but I just wanted to get into a hot shower. I took a while edore my dingers stoppedbfeeling vaguely stiff.

Ice had a sort of small wound on tip of right Second to little finger for a few days and fumbling for stiff in day-pack during tour I ended up somehow getting some green pus to come out. To be fair it actually perhaps huts less than it sos. Just may not some germolene on.

When got back the rain picked up a bit so I crawled into tent feelingmildly shit and musxle crampey but didn't want to go out for dinner in rain (could have put jacket etc on but wanted to keep thesry for maybe trip tomorrow). To give myself credit I was being reasonably positive, all part of tourist experience etc but was feeling quite ahit.

Rain alowed down and asked owner chap where I could go for f{od and he told me about the piZa place and this time it was open. I was caredul not to gorgeyself and make myself sick, but I ordered a xhica pizza and I think (me\uring with hand span and finger) it was a 12". I ate half of it and got the rest to bring back in a box - was roying with oddering it to people but no one was or has been on t erra e since I got back and Ice put it in first. I asked if woman could change a 500 and she could so for that pkuabsaving me from dying ogunfer i tipped her 40. I also got a 600ml full day coke to bring back and it is in fridge now.

My muscles ache a bit and I don't feel great but not too bad. I may have some of the coke in a minute. Probably earlyish night. I am not going to set an alarm and I will play it by ear what I do tomorrow. I made an effort today and while I would like to try limones chac solo I need to treat myself with respect and not force myself if I stilfeel shit tonorrow as i sont want to get run down. Deliverately not thinkg about it. If l want to I can maybe splurge on the tour I found out about or I can try it on my own on Wednesday - uvhavw time and don't need to fuxk? yself level by charging around I'd I feel under the weather. That isn't slack, it's just smart.

Since I got sick I haven't checke|s tonight as I pka! Es but 90% sure I can fet an easy frequent bus here to xhetunal and either put in a night or two there or change same say for an onward bua to say xjpil.

No problem walking back from pia (ONLY ABOUT TWO BLOCKS) after dark, albeit nega Kate. Walked in nisskeishofbroqs ("middle of road" to show what I am facing wrt onscreen keyboard) but moved for the odd car, more against dogs than muggers.

2009bhavingbbit of xoke. Yay for b instead of space. Not feeling great but not terrible. Kudos for bashing all this out ak I am not falling behind with blog.

Took o6 k  boat in case it got lost rho p7 is non-inally waterproof somifht have been better given rain spray on screen causingprpvlems, but was a mistake worried about losing ot overboard.

Didn't really speak to anyone during tour but don't think anyone else who wasn't already with someone did either sis aay goodbye to everyone as I acaepered off the dock to get home.

If I didn't already say I probably wasn't going to suffer long term I) e%ects from feeling so cold, but it did *feel* pretty bad. I did fairly well trying to be poaitivebans upbeat and eg look forward to hot shower and make the most of it etc and not freak out about food and rain and dark.

Of, on way back to hostel after bookifntour I tried to break an old 500 in willys and they just flat declined it. I went in a tinylittle alborote? Shop and straight out showed the nice-ish oldish local woman the note and asked if she could change it. She tested it and said yes  I asked if she had change as I didn't want to buy a lot and  she did disappear off with note after this but she came back. I picked a few not great snacks (with a view to taking them to chac tomorrow on self tour and also, foresightedly, in case I couldn't eat tonight hot after tour) for about 35 or maybe 60 and a boy had come up to counter and told me what they came to and I said thelady hasny note and he asked I'd I was English and what the word for caballo was (I knew yay) in English  and I explained the note was old because it was from when I was here 12 years ago (althis on spabiah) ans he seemed genuinely somehow impressed i asked him how old he was and he was 11 so maybe that explains it though I might expect a 11 year old to be more cynical. I got my change and (at least such was my intention) thanked him (saying it to both of them)  for talking to me and left and that felt oddly nice, even though the snacks I'd got were a tiny bit expensive and not really what I wanted. Maybe a little memory for me, and I'd like to imagine he got the lady (presimably his mum) to show him the old note after.

All my laundry outside tent got soaked un downpour during tour. Rookie mistake *esp* after seeing weather fotecaat other day when i waa thinking about seeing sunrise over lake. But cant be helped. I have left it out tonight outaide tent and if it doesnt rain in night maybe it will dry (not just the two tops i wshed yday but also damp clothes from tour today).  If not dependinf how i feel and what i do and when i get up i may see if i can hang it under cover round by the clothes washing sink tomorrow morning.

The autocorrect seems to hace just gone shit. I am sober, to be clear.  OK, I has somehow accidentally switched to Spanish mode. Not going back to fix up, think it is mostly readable. OK did fix it up a bit.

We saw cenote negro on tour and I think captaon said all the houses round it are on airbnb and I didn't see any obvious public access from road. It is also a tiny bit forbidsing looking with the black water and being 90m deep (not sure about edge) and being open to the lake (all the cenotes here are apparently open not closed) and this is another reason why I am reluctant to follow up on poss of doing kayak in cenote negro from one of those hotels nearby I saw on this mornings tour, and why I suspect info i found online was outdated rather than me making mistakes.

2030 OK had half coke and going to clean teeth and go to bed. Feel OK if still bit achey and a touch chilly, though it is really quite pleasant out and just wearing trousers, dull shoes and socks and long sleeved top (no fleece).

2048 in bed.