Waiting on the shore now. There is a slightly weird guy with a guitar asking noisily if anyone can play and share their music with us. I am sure he is going to be on my boat. I just hope he's no more than slightly weird.
OK, looks like he isn't. He just shouted at us as we got on.
I thought my bag was a bit bulging (I have hardly anything in it but it's still a struggle to fit, I think it's mainly the fact that I have squashed my coat in there that's the problem) but there are some people with full backpacks. Maybe they're spending a few weeks on the island camping out. I have seen a couple with one tiny bag like mine between them and it's not even bulging. No idea how they managed it. Surely they need water even if they're coming back this afternoon.
Some people have gone to sit on the roof of the boat, I didn't realise that was an option but I think I'll stick inside anyway. I hear a certain amount of singing from up there and it's way too early in the morning for that.
8:40am We just left. I feel obliged to look out of the window but there isn't much to see. A few more minutes and I'm reading a book until there's some kind of "ooh, look at that" buzz among the other passengers.
8:55am Sat on the right hand side of the boat by the window and the sun is roasting me. Can't move as the boat's nearly full and I have two people on my left. Joy. Only consolation is I won't be getting sunburn. Oh well, only about another fucking hour of this.
Aha, slipped my jacket off and am using it as a sunscreen. Probably looks a bit odd but screw it, it's a lot more comfortable.
9:30am God this is tedious. And the fuckers behind me are playing some music out loud, the arrogant bastards. Continuous and probably unhealthy atmosphere of engine fumes is getting to me as well.
10am. I think we just went past the southern docking point of the island where I intend to be catching the boat back tomorrow. If memory serves we will have another hour to go round to the northern docking point. Can't wait to get off, the sun is terrible (at least in the open air there may be a breeze) and the seat is extraordinarily uncomfortable.
10:45am. The arrogant music-playing fuckers behind me are now kissing noisly over and over and over again. Once or twice I can handle but for fuck's sake you cunts, I've just about had it up to here with this boat and everyone on it so cut me some fucking slack.
Thank fuck, I think we are there.
10:50am Yes, off the boat. I hate climbing over the side and walking along the unfenced jetty carrying a bag and surrounded by other people. Safely on the shore of the island now. I need to get a grip and try to start enjoying myself now... ;-)
11am. Paid 10 Bolivianos to come into the museum. I am cheered up, it is such an absolute joke of a rip-off I can't help it. It's a room with a few glass cases containing unlabelled artificacts such as you might see in a proper museum with some context. The only thing that puzzles me is that a group of four or five young women in here with me appear to be finding it genuinely fascinating.
OK, there are a few token bits of text. But I stand by what I said.
12.10pm OK, it's not such a rip off as that same ticket allows you to visit the other ruins in the north part of the island. I am occasionally eavesdropping on guided groups but generally have no idea what I am looking at. Slightly tired but holding up OK so far.
12:30pm Think I found the start of the trail across the ridge to Yamani or whatever it's called. It heads in the right direction at least...
1:25pm Just got to probably the highest point on the trail. 3 guys at the top stopped and asked if I had a ticket. Showed them the one from the museum. That no longer passes muster. Another 10 Bolivianos. What rankles particulalrly is the guy pointing out something at the top of the original ticket saying where it's valid for and saying "it's clear". Because obviously I need a ticket for EVERY SINGLE LOCATION in the world, so if I am in some location not covered by that ticket, I must need a new one. It's clear.
It's a negligible amount but the whole thing is a con, even assuming they do have some sort of authority to require you to buy these tickets. It's not like I got charged for walking down every street in La Paz. And if this is a 'national park' type deal, there should be one entrance fee when you get here and that's it.
Anyway, onwards and downwards.
Oh, insofar as I have the energy to appreciate them, the views are pretty cool.
2:40pm. Just passed another ticket checkpoint. They accepted one of the two I already had.
I doubt that point earlier was the absolutely highest point. Lots of up and down. Starting to get a bit knackered but the guide book says it's a 3-4h work so at least I should be over halfway.
3:30pm. Just checked into a fairly nice double room at Hosteria Las Islas, 40 Bolivianos for the night with a shared bathroom. (I could have had a private bathroom, but I figure it's no big deal and I might as well keep my costs down when it's easy. I had and will have one back in Copacabana anyway so it's only for one night.)
I actually passed the sign saying 'Welcome to Yumani, right of entrance 5 Bolivianos' (I kid you not, although no one has collected that yet) at 3pm.
Quite weird checking in here, all my interaction was done with a girl of maybe 8-10, albeit wiith the occasional consultation with some adult in a back room.
Anyway, it's good to be here. Big problem now is that none of the several million restaurants I have seen really appear to be open. (Honestly, I can't believe how many there are. Unless they are all hostels too, I don't see how even in high season there could ever be enough trade for them all. Maybe the local population makes a precarious living eating in each other's restaurants.)
Maybe they are genuinely open and if I walk in they will serve me. Probably not much alternative to trying that. I suppose I could go for a bit of a wander around first although to be honest I am quite knackered.
There was a friendly dog wandering the trail which accompanied me part of the way. I thought about offering it some water but I had no idea where I could pour it out, so I didn't. It seemed happy enough though.
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