Cordoba, Saturday

Sun 0112 Quietish day.

Got up maybe 10ish, phone failed to charge during night for various reasons so partly out of laziness, partly to let it charge and partly as vague plan for day was head down to area south of historic centre guy at checkin had told me IIRC was cool on Sat afternoons in, well, the afternoon I stayed in flat watching YT and nursing phone to charge (about 1% every 3 mins) from powerbank for some time.

Did just before heading out maybe 3pm book the flat in BA on airbnb having had sane response from owner overnight; works out at £16/night more or less which isn't bad given I've been paying (poss at mentally inflated arithmetically convenient exchange rates) £10/night-ish for dorms. Area is San Nicolas which may be a revelation and if not is also walkable to San Telmo-ish stuff and also microcentro and so forth.

I bought a new USB lead - short one for ARS100, prob overpriced and maybe should have haggled or shopped around but tolerable and can't expect ebay six-week-shipping-from-China prices in the circumstances - from street markety bit of Independencia down on walk to the supposedly cool area.

Supposedly cool area either not there today or didn't exist. Ended up doing mini walk round Sarmiento park and the university campus (cool graffiti mixed with politically wank sentiments, students eh?) and some prob-universityish sports fields with hocket/rugby/soccer going on, which was sort of cool. Started to feel really hungry despite eating OKish yday and indulging in packet of sesame seed crackers during flat loiter in morning. Had half intended to eat out but not seeing anywhere which looked "fun" (sit at table, nice atmosphere, beer in sun/shade) I decided would go to supermarket. Oh, weather today very overcast but still warm. Not at all sunny.

Stopped feeling hungry once got to supermarket. Lucky as I was queuing for 40 mins to pay. Yay for a) weekends b) apparently insane delays as people pay c) being bumped out of the first queue after 10 mins as the massive tailback of shopping trolleys required me to move, then some guy needed to move back and I frankly had not a clue what was going on and just had to walk off and join another queue, which after a couple of minutes I noticed was a "green checkout" which didn't give (did it sell? yday in same supermarket was offered plastic bag at ARS1 each but had daypack so didn't take that up, maybe I was at a green checkout, today I hadn't taken daypack as sick of lugging it round) plastic bags so had to go requeue in a third checkout which *did* I think give me a free plastic bag (I had one in back pocket as always but not sufficient) d) people like me paying on credit card which apparently requires summoning someone over with a card terminal and blocking the queue for five minutes.

I bought a litre bottle of "lo mas barato" Iguana beer at ARS55 and a can of Quilmes Stout and have just finished drinking them. Both v acceptable TBH, though can't help feeling QS is not really a stout - but what do I know? A decent dark beer anyway. Annoyingly the Iguana is a returnable bottle so got charged ARS25ish for privilege of buying it and now I have to lug the bottle back to supermarket and hope I can get a cash refund not just swap it for a full beer. Yay for ecofascism.

Also got a sort of ring-shaped cake/bread (ARS50 on promotion) which may be Easter-ish but not sure. Had half tonight, very rich and nice actually. (Took photo of it in trolley; tempted to photo it out of packaging but since I knew I wouldn't eat the whole thing tonight I figured taking it out of packaging completely would increase chances of it going stale before could finish it.)

New USB cable works to charge powerbank (virtually impossible to charge it reliably with either of existing two cables) but phone (with dodgy socket, so can't blame cable) really doesn't like it. Have been nursing phone charge up via precarious balancing act (literally; I have to prop phone up at funny angles so cable and socket work) and short USB cable from powerbank tonight. Fuck all chance of charging in bed but can prob get away without it.

Among all sorts of much nerdier stuff watched couple of outdoor survivaly videos on YT tonight. I have no serious concern about actual emergency situations but apart from entertainment value this did remind me of eg "How to predict the weather with a cup of coffee"'s " urban bushcraft" stuff and also made me wonder if I might get any travel-light tips from them apart from just raw entertainment. Misc thoughts in this line:

- my current struggle to top up phone seems like an ultra-wussy nerdy version of struggling to maintain supplies of water, food or fire. The fact I have occasionally woken up a few times during the night, seen it wasn't charging and fiddled with it to try to make it charge has an amusing correspondence with waking up during the night to feed the fire keeping you alive.

- in a couple of places (including this flat) I am lighting non-survival gas hobs with unsatisfactory equipment provided (a lighter or match) which makes me worry I'm going to burn the flesh off my hand when the gas ignites. I light the hobs in my own flat with a simple fag lighter without (much) worry but I know it ignites gently on lowest setting without any fuss; the couple of places am thinking of haven't been like that. I doubt I will, but I could (and indeed in last such place wished I had) carry around a few wooden splints to use as "arm's length" firelighters.

- already mused on weight of water when moving around but Patrick did mention some expensive-but-reliable water purification tablets last time I saw him, I should get the details off him - if they're like 50p each that would still be comparable with the price of bottled water and even if taste is a bit foul might make it easier for me to minimise water I lug around long distances (since I only need enough for the journey, I know I can disinfect some once I get to my accom even if it's too late to go to shop for more)

- I have been moderately pleased with my efforts to determine which direction I'm walking based on rough sun location combined with knowledge of town grid layouts, but I should probably (for mental exercise+reduced muggability by not getting phone out so much) practice a kind of "urban bushcraft" when it comes to navigation, eg eyeballing distance/number of blocks on map and counting and so on - sounds a bit nerdy but would lower mugability, probably help me to "learn" local street plan better and would be satisfying not to depend so much on phone for navigation. Not that I do too badly already.

- obviously from my travel light perspective I prefer to carry one of everything because if it breaks it merely causes a teeny tiny bit of hardship (in a wussy way, the phone being knackered is worse since it is playing role of comms device+map+book+music player, and as waffled already toying with carrying two phones in future; not exactly "in case" one breaks as such, as to try to avoid the charging in bed which I thinks makes breakage more likely in first place) whereas survivaly types carry duplicates of some things because they can't just pop down the shops. Of course the idea of dual-function stuff is still useful (and not novel) from a travel-light perspective, but to eliminate items not add redundancy for safety.

- the only actual overlap between what I currently carry and these survival/outdoory people's gear at the moment is a) bin bags b) a torch.

0244 Bed. Bit of a late night but tis OK. Feel a bit sad not to go out Sat night but didn't fancy getting a taxi back, after I ate I felt bloated, I went out too early if I only wanted to go out once, blah blah. Saw "Happy Hostel Happy Bar" (with big drawing of Mafalda on wall) on walk earlier and felt a bit lonely, which is entirely in my head as I saw no one there at all. But although I could perhaps have stayed in more hostels with bars to hang around and socialise in I did hostels, I did dorms a lot lately and I wanted a bit of comfort etc. I *do* need to remember to look and see if there's a Spanish exchange I could go to here and/or in BA. Had quietly enjoyable evening in with beers and YT.

Not got a hope in hell of charging phone in bed overnight, it has got up to 84% and I can prob afford to spend a bit of time topping it up in morning and/or won't need too much power for a few hours out tomorrow, so have left powerbank charging overnight on new cable and hopefully it can get up to 100%. Phone seems to charge better off powerbank than actual charger lately tho hard to be sure I'm not deluding myself.

Corrientes-Cordoba

Thu 1619 Bit worried about battery life given can no longer top up reliably from powerbank given dodgy connector.

Got up 930ish and had breakfast; bloke and woman (strangers I think) having conversation in Spanish but I think they were both native speakers and I didn't try to join in. Left bag at hostel, hope it's OK. Plan is to go back about 1745 and get bag then walk over to terminal.

Went overt to Museo de Ciencias Naturales; free again, small but quite interesting. Milked it rather heavily, watching maybe an hour of some National Geographic documentary in barely-audible Spanish for example. They had a small display of some rather horrific looking preserved spiders. Quite a cool huge bees/wasp's nest which let you see the structure of the thing.

Felt super hot and sweaty as soon as left hostel; surely I should be pretty well acclimatised by now? Maybe it is unusually hot/humid today. Didn't really like to go back to that food truck by river, mostly because didn't fancy third argument with the beggar woman. So walked over to Junin and ended up coming into Cafe-Bar Schneider; sat outside at first but no service plus some guy asking me if I had a fag then inviting me to go take a free look at his shit for sale across the road persuaded me to come in; it was nice enough under umbrella over table but it is airconditioned in here. Had, after some wrangling and confusion, a milanesa with chips and a soft drink and now got litre of Schneider. Shame to drink in a way but sod it. Will prob get an Americano after this and that should see me through to bag-collecting time.

Told guy (it was the one who spoke to me in English so didn't try Spanish, assuming he likes to practice) at reception when left bag about my lost 32GB SD card, he said they would look during cleaning so need to remember to ask about it when collect bag (hope same guy is on) and is a slim chance will get it back.

Did see what I think was the little black cat I had on my bunk during breakfast and snapped very quick picture of it. It was playing with some string at one point, so it may just be an old-ish kitten which might account for it being so relatively skinny.

Looking at place mats this place might actually be called Parada 2-15 and merely have a confusing (to me at least) canopy outside.

Salt packet says "Industria Argentina" and have seen on many other products too, also in Brazil some similar variant with Brazil in name. Wonder if "Industria Argentina" is a huge manufacturing concern, or if this is a way of saying "Made in Argentina" and doesn't indiciate which company produced it.

1853 Got to terminal few mins ago. Sweaty as fuck but otherwise OK. "CBS" tried to charge me 500odd when I knew bill should be 400odd; bit annoying but OTOH kudos for managing to calmly dispute this and get issue fixed.

Collected bag OK and sneakily used wifi while there; a woman on desk not same bloke but asked about card, no sign, oh well. She offered to call me taxi but said no need; my Spanish could have been better during this conversation but got by which is something.

Batt 50%; will try to charge from powerbank on bus. Am in cama; guy was a bit fast for me reeling off prices when bought tkt yday but this was apparently the cheap option - there was a "suite" option for IIRC about an extra ten quid but I had been plannin to settle for semi-cama so cama is fine.

Sign as got near terminal said "Terminal Ferroviario 300m" ; I suspect this is just the bus terminal, but could there be a train station here? Perhaps a stop on that not-very-reliable Buenos Aires-Posadas line? Maybe worth a bit of web search later.

2012 On bus. Accidentally went upstairs, even tho told downstairs. Not sure if upstairs is nicer than downstairs. Upstairs has luggage racks, but the same 2+1 layout as downstairs so it's not like either is semi-cama. I get no luggage rack, which means my rather bulky main bag has to sit round my feet, or be tucked under the footrest which I'd really rather not use. I wasn't offered a choice of seat when I booked, I have the aisle seat of the double seat right at back which means there's a cateringy gadget where the aisle should be and there's a really fucking noisy aircon unit right behind my head. So not terrible, but frankly crap. In this respect most of the semi-cama buses I've been on have been more comfortable. We're off, no seatmate yet anyway.

Also have load of cushions, blankets and food trays which I have nowhere to put if I need to use the footrest (I can tuck them behind it if not in use).

No, we're not quite moving yet.

Ambulant vendor at terminal selling what look like half litre glasses at ARS15 with a mildly amusing line in patter. Vaguely tempted but really could there be a worse souvenir purchase than something that bulky, fragile and dangerous-once-broken?

2020 Now we're off, and no seatmate, but of course may get one en route and esp as I may be half asleep I can't spread myself out.

2155 Had some food on bus, cold rice+chicken+bit of egg, raspberry? jelly, few crackers, a cup of some hot broth, a presumably non-diet coke and annoyed at myself for turning down a cup of something (wiki? wicked?) partly because *everyone* else turned it down too (and partly cos a quick glance made me wonder if it was an iced drink or a syrup with chunk of peach in, prob not the latter but really didn't want it if it was and on bus you can't just ignore or dispose of something trivially once you've got in on your lap tray and it might spill evberywhere).

Struggling to charge phone, think vibrations make it damn hard to keep the cable/connector in a suitable position and I'm worried that trying to apply pressure with hand to compensate is going to accelerate the point at which the connector just dies completely; managed to gradually nudge up to 51% and should last overnight since really only playing music on phone on bus. Once in Cordoba and indeed BA I can hopefully charge it a bit more "gently" via propping up as I did in dorm bunk and I need to try to nurse it through last couple of weeks of trip then can get it fixed back home.

Fri 0949 In flat. Massive amount of forms to get checked in but all OK, they had a cancellation on 1 bed flat (I had booked 2 bed) so got 10% discount for downgrading to still very large and nice 1 bed, also not had to pay IVA (and told it's my right so other place shouldn't have fobbed me off but no matter, not a huge amount and didn't want to argue lateish at night). Checked dollar exchange rate on Google and it *is* 44 ARS to the dollar, which seems expensive but it's because I've been using 50 ARS to the GBP just because it's easy for mental arithmetic but it's actually 57. (So this may mean Argentina has been a bit cheaper than I thought.) Anyway, a hair over USD157 for six nights is not super cheap but not bad and it is a pretty nice flat, although sadly neither of the TVs is a smart TV so I'm stuck watching Youtube on my phone with crappy charging, which is a bit of a shame when one of the attractions of an apartment is it's more comfortable to spend time in.

Was in fairly bad mood on walk over from terminal due to anticipating massive wait to get into flat and phone batt being low. Got to flat about 0830 after arriving terminal maybe 0730 or a bit after, had to wait til 9 for office to open but managed to squash a bit of charge into phone from power bank while sitting on a wall outside. Phone socket is definitely iffy but I think my long USB cable is also a bit knackered too. I have a short cable which I knew was knackered already but which seemed to work instead of long one while charging outside.

Advised by chap that shouldn't walk back at night, though he later clarified this as "midnight onwards" , and a taxi from centre is about 100 so given I will prob only be out late Sat night (if at all) this isn't a huge deal.

No toilet paper which is a bit crap but I do have my own roll and I'll ask for some down at the office later.

Woohoo, found TV manual while checking supplies in kitchen and it is actually a smart TV after all...

1629 Should prob start new blog for today but won't, it doesn't really matter and today sort of feels like continuation of travel.

So topped phone up and went out maybe 1-2pm to buy train ticket to Buenos Aires (Retiro); expected it to be a faff or the train not to be running or ticket office not to be open given there can't be more than a handful of trains a week. All OK except a) camarote class all sold out b) they only take Visa (or cash, but that's a bad option for me given withdrawal fees) and I had two Mastercards on me. So I left and came back - chuntering to myself, not ideal, but wasn't rude to anyone else - via supermarket where picked up some food, a cheap toothbrush (mine is really getting ratty) and amazingly a small cheap pouch of laundry detergent so I can use flat's washing machine (a very rare feature) to save/go one better than handwashing. Cooked, felt quite stuffed, loitered maybe half an hour to digest then went back out to station with my Barclaycard Platinum Travel. Also took actual passport in hidden belt just in case they refused to accept my credit card sized copy; the station isn't far but it's far enough and there's enough dangerous/tedious road crossing for it to be a real pain to have to keep going over there.

No problem, no fuss taking ccard passport copy, paid no fuss for Pullman (next best class, 600 - base class is 500 so given it's a 19h-ish trip plus am doing it for the experience - I suspect bus would be quicker, though maybe not cheaper - not economising over two quid - it's a shame I could go camarote but another time) and have a moderately fancy cardboard wallet with ticket in which will be a small souvenir.

Picked up some toilet paper from the flat rental office on ground floor (they don't own whole building, but guess they must own or manage-for-owner a fair number to warrant a specific office with at least three staff), was very nice about it - I am super grateful they let me in early and while signing a contract and having to leave a cash deposit was a faff it wasn't end of world - but saw no harm in asking.

Plan for tonight is just to have quiet night in, enjoy the flat *and book or at least "choose" a BA flat, be it on airbnb or booking.com or expedia* so I have the accom all sorted out.

I think the USB cable *is* going dodgy as I put the power bank on to top up earlier and it took quite a bit of faffing. The phone's USB connector is definitely dodgy too, but the USB cable is now as well - possibly the propping-up on the cable I've had to do to get the phone to charge hasn't helped, or maybe it's just one of those things. It is supposed to be a half-decent quality cable (though nothing insane; £2-3 for one cable in a pack of three I think) but OTOH it has lasted up til now (I started using it for Guatemala trip in Oct I think) and I guess the "charging phone in bed" does put strain on things.

Going to switch to carrying BPT instead of Clarity; I had been keeping it in reserve as it's more valuable since it has simple fee-free withdrawals, but with the end of the trip so close losing it would not be such a wrench and it would be helpful to have both a Visa (BPT credit) and Mastercard (Starling debit) jic given some places are obviously fussy. If (as prob will) I need to wd more cash it may just be case the BPT is better, but I doubt it (otherwise would have made a point of trying it before).

Looking at contents of train ticket wallet I could apparently have saved 10% booking online. Assuming this works for foreigners I will know next time but TBH by the time I've paid for an internet cafe to print the ticket the 60 saving on this ticket would be beating eaten away anyway. Under other circumstances I might be booking from UK before I travel, though, and then I can obviously print very cheaply and conveniently.

2205 Just been Youtubing it up while charging phone (this is the key advantage of smart TV, albeit another dog slow one - perhaps the YT app has got bloated over time; having a big screen is nice but being able to entertain myself without touching phone and its precarious charge infrastructure is key) and also done a load of laundry.

FWIW did acquire seatmate about an hour into last night's journey, bus filled up at least on my deck at that point. Not a problem though, especially with the bigger cama seats. Didn't sleep super well but could have been worse.

Don't really feel in mood for booking BA accom but let's at least poke and start the mental process off.

Man does it piss me off the way booking.com shows properties which are not available. I suppose this is not entirely marketing wank, as if I repeat a search in a few days time I might be looking for property X I had my eye on and would rather it didn't silently disappear.

Without paying attention to location very much, cheapest apartment/aparthotel on booking.com is USD190+40 taxes for the 10 nights. On the other hand, some of these don't seem to have any kitchens so they're not really apartments to my mind.

They do have a place in Montserrat for USD243+50 which looks OK; I was thinking San Telmo-ish (perhaps boring of me but WTF, tho on prev trips think have been in other areas) and Montserrat is close enough for me, perhaps better in some ways.

Cheapest in rough area on airbnb is £161 for the same period, which is USD210, so that is cheaper (though I may not have to pay the 50 fee on the booking.com place since they do take cards and I am a foreigner). The airbnb place says it has an independent kitchen in listing but has kitchen crossed out in amenities. It seems to be a 4 bedroom place (!) but really I don't need 4 bedrooms, and there are *no* reviews.

I note the booking.com place says it accepts cards, then the text says you must pay by bank transfer before you arrive. Feeling a bit narked by booking.com's "last 1" psychological tricks too.

OK, I've sent a query to the host via booking.com re paying by card and not paying the VAT so let's see what they say. If the place gets booked by someone else in the meantime there are other options, I haven't definitely decided it would suit me if the answer to my query is favourable (though I also don't want to get bogged down in finding the "perfect" place; good enough is good enough).

Hahahaha. Another vaguely decent apartment on booking.com wants a USD 200 (this place in Cordoba has only taken ARS1000, which is a bit over twenty quid) *cash* damage deposit on check in. I bet they want it in ARS not USD too, not that I have 200 USD on me either. I'm flying out straight afterwards, so that would stick me with USD200 worth of ARS which I wouldn't be able to spend til my next visit to Argentina, which may be next year but may be four or five years. And I'd pay an extra 5% or so in cash machine fees for the privilege of withdrawing the money. So fuck right off chap. If you want to play with the big boys you should get the facilities to reserve a chunk of money on my credit card, I'm not handing over USD200 in cash to satisfy your jumped-up little landlording operation.

expedia.co.uk has no apartment for less than £237 so they're out of consideration.

Some of the reviews on the possible booking.com apt I sent query to are a bit iffy but some others (most, in fact) from same time period are pretty positive. Gut feeling is *if* they tell me I can pay by ccard and won't be charged VAT I will probably book with them. I think there's little more to do tonight, having a bit of time and space to consider these issues and spread the booking process over a day or two instead of needing something for a day or two's time is one reason I wanted to start now, but that doesn't mean I have to *finish* tonight and damn the potential downsides.

2319 OK, got two extremely curt replies, not one for some reason. In Spanish. One clearly says "Yes I can pay by card." The other I was a tiny bit dubious about the language (literally they say "Se hace un cobro de 50 %") but Google Translate tells me it says "a 50% surcharge is made" . I wondered (not that that would be acceptable anyway) if this meant "you must pay 50% up front by bank transfer" . They've also completely ignored the not-paying-VAT question. So unfortunately, fuck them - the apartment sounded good and willing to take a punt on the bad reviews being stroppy fuckers given most were good, but I'm not doing an international  bank transfer (which would in any case compel me to pay the VAT) and anyone who thinks a 50% surcharge is reasonable for paying by credit card frankly doesn't deserve to be in business full stop. Add that to the ultra-curtness of the replies (though it is late and at least they replied promptly) and fuck that. Not going to reply and tell them to go fuck themselves, no point burning bridges unnecessarily, I only expressed an interest and am not obliged to follow through.

Was heading towards bed but not that tired and now that property is out of consideration I can go ahead and look at other stuff.

OK, I've messaged the cheap apartment on airbnb (about £16 a night); it's not 4 bedroom, it's 4 beds and sole bedroom has two singles not a double which is but crap but not terrible. It looks like there is no proper kitchen, just a microwave, but I've asked if there's a hob; yes I may well just say "fuck it, last 10 days of trip" and go eat steak and chips at that place found in Jan every day, but I would like to have the option to cook something semi-healthy now and then. On the plus side check in is from 8am so I wouldn't be homeless for hours after my train gets in. Also asked if it would be a problem for me to be checking out pre-8am on last day.

There is another flat in same area for about two quid a night more which looks a bit nicer but checkin is from 3pm and I really don't want to be homeless from 930 to 3pm if I can help it.

There's another borderline OK place further west more into San Nicolas, which *might* be a nice area and worth a punt but current thinking is the £16 place is already over that way and would give me option to explore in that direction without getting me further away from the semi-decent options I know exist over towards Montserrat/Constitucion. There's also a cheapish place in Palermo but I think I stayed there (Dazzler Flats) before and while it may be a swanky area I want something a little more down to earth where I might find some non-overpriced bars for the odd evening out.

I could move up on price (though TBH given booking.com's listings are polluted with the kind of deceptive and/or exploitative shit waffled about above not sure it's easy to find anything on there), I was paying £26ish IIRC in Santiago and could in BA, but I'd rather keep it cheap if I can get something acceptable lower down price range.

Bed. No idea how I'm going to charge phone overnight (batt run down rom 75% I had trickled it up to to 28% doing this stuff tonight) but fingers crossed.

Corrientes, Wednesday

Wed 1139 Slept OKish, woke up a bit in night as usual. Got up with mild hangover about 1010, uncommunicative breakfast (just couple of croissants and some sort of pastry hiding in a cardboard box which I assume was free-to-all) and sitting in "hall" of hostel poking at web re bookings. Wrt uncommunicative to be fair it was just me and one woman who seemed preoccupied, I didn't sit there silently as conversation bubbled round me.

Have booked an apartment in Cordoba for 6 nights at about £27/night on booking.com; airbnb couldn't compete unless I was willing to stay in a town 10-20kms outside Cordoba (which was doable at maybe £19 a night), which to be fair might be interesting in a way but not right now, so this is booking.com. I should be able to pay on credit card though have to give a cash deposit on checkin which will get back on checkout, so this sounds a bit more wanky and bureaucratic than most of my airbnb-ish apartment rentals; however, I can live with this especially as I expect to be leaving Cordoba early afternoon by train so having to meet someone for checkout is not a big problem.

I had a look at the buses and there are some half-decent overnight ones; I am going to end up hanging around from 9am-2pm on arrival with my bag (well, less time to walk over to flat of course) but not the end of the world. I will go over to bus terminal in a bit and buy a ticket; there are enough companies that I am willing to gamble on booking accom now before buying ticket, accom was probably the most limiting factor.

I hope this hostel will let me leave my bag here during the day on Thursday; if they won't I'll just have to deal with it, I guess. Will ask in a bit.

I will have a look later and see if there is any kind of Spanish exchange in Cordoba I might be able to go to while I'm there. Will try to book train tkt to BA as soon as I get there and once I have that I can look into BA flat; sooner I book the better as it opens up slow-responding airbnb hosts (not, incidentally, that this was an issue in Cordoba - there was simply nothing available at a price which could beat booking.com in Cordoba itself, poss due to booking nearly last minue).

Oh, that £27/night includes 21% VAT which booking.com site (but not e-mail) says I don't have to pay as foreigner paying with foreign card. I suspect I'll be charged it anyway but I have a screenshot of the booking.com site this time so I will a) politely bring it up when I check in b) make a polite stink with booking.com after I check out if I do have to pay it.

2058 On common hall bit of hostel to write this before bed. Batt at 10% so hope it lasts.

So I checked on way out earlier and no problem to leave bag here during day. Guy at desk super helpful, spoke English and also told me there was a travel agent round corner open from 5pm where could buy tkt to save going to bus terminal

I think I went to lie on bunk a bit before heading out to top up phone following the morning's web browsing re accom etc.

Oh, the guy also said a lower bunk had come free and did I want to change; I dithered briefly but said it was OK, I was only here one more night and had got used to it. I'm going to feel aggrieved if my phone falls off the bunk and smashes tonight though...

So (it was getting on towards 2 by this point) I walked over to the Costanera and the food truck I went to the other day - passing natural science museum which was open, maybe go there tomorrow - and had a pizza and litre of Quilmes Bajocero by the river. I think the same aggressive beggar woman came up to me as other day, I did broken record "no, disculpe" on here and she walked off muttering "que malo sos vos" or something a bit like that. Felt a bit guilty but I really hate being put on the spot. There was a silvery grey cat hanging round as well, I think it might be a stray - looked a bit thin though otherwise in fair condition. Felt a bit sorry for it but couldn't do anything, I tossed it a tiny bit of ham from my pizza  but it didn't seem interested, it's not as if I had a box of cat biscuits on me. Had brief chat with owner as paid.

Went over to Museo de Bellas Artes. Small but quite good and free (no option to even donate AFAICS), had brief chat in Spanish with staff member who asked me to fill in a card with my impressions of one of the exhibits. Played the Bill Bryson "I've been told I can take one exhibit home as a reward for being an awesome human being, what will I take?" game. A bit torn but ultimately think it would have to be Rincón de Quilmes by Famuceno Bonifacio Oroquieta (1939) - something about the brilliant electric colours on the hut and the impression of sun and shade on the boats etc really worked for me. Didn't note names (tho snapped photos; guy told me it was OK without flash) of all other contenders, but do remember there was a picture called "Descansando" near RdQ with three horses stood in the street and something about the front horse really did conjure up a feeling of relaxation, the front horse also sort of managed to look strangely cuddly (and I am not really a horse person). Another candidate was IIRC "oposicion de signos", a nicely geometric pseudo-neony thing, and there was also a big modern-ish picture called " Pleno aire" (or "aire pleno" ?) which did feel quite open and fresh but which attracted my repeated attention primarily because one of the chickens at the bottom just looked *so* plump and three dimensional, almost like a ball, the effect was almost mesmerising.

Loitered perhaps a bit too long and though I think it was in part a slight sadness at moving on (as always, better than being pleased to get away) I had to tear myself away slightly from RdQ and Descansando.

I then went over to the travel agency nr hostel as it was gone 5pm and they were open. The woman in there seemed slightly sullen and told me I couldn't pay by credit card for the bus I wanted (but I could for others); since my poke on web had suggested other buses had worse timings and prices I really wanted that one but really didn't want to pay cash given the 5%-ish fee so I asked her if I'd be able to pay by card at the bus terminal and she said yes so I thanked her and left. TBH quite glad not to give her my business, she wasn't rude but she didn't seem super welcoming either.

Bit peeved at having to walk 3km+ each way to terminal - mainly as phone batt was super low at this point, single digits - but as I told myself it's not as though I had *any* plans for tonight anyway. Bit of a slog but bought ticket OK on card, came back and got some water and some biscuits (for bus) at supermarket en route and then spent a while back here at hostel lying on bunk as phone charged while I surfed a bit.

2115 Batt 4% and sure was one minor thing left to mention but can't think of it. Will go to bed now anyway, need to try to charge headphones too ready for bus overnight.

Oh, don't think it was the thing, but Cordoba accom says their office is in same building as flat and I can leave my bag there until I check in, which is nice. I arrive before 8am I think so they may not be open straight away, but prob be OKish.

Just seen and photographed near-camouflaged black cat in hostel, but not sure it's the same one I had on my bunk other day - it seems bigger and not super friendly (I touched its head but it didn't seem too impressed).

Poss minor thing was dropping camera while sitting at table at food truck place by river but not sure. Batt 2% so will write about that later/tomorrow.

Corrientes, Tuesday

Tue 1951 At Cafe-Bar Schneider on corner Junin and San Juan. Sitting outside, it's not cold but there's a cool breeze which is (wearing long-sleeved T-shirt) borderline pleasant and borderline chilly.

Going to get two empanadas and a litre of Schneider (the cheap beer at this bar). Not out for a session, but a bit bored and after afternoon on bunk at hostel had been intending to come out for quiet beer and muse this evening.

Got back to hostel maybe 4-5, taking 4k cash out in desperation after trying n banks earlier and finding none will let me take more. Lay on bed surfing a bit and charging up phone. There's a little black cat running round hostel, it was yowling slightly in the dorm and with only minor encouragement it climbed up the vertical ladder onto adjacent top bunk and then jumped across on to mine; it let me stroke it and purred a bit. Then some new people came in and turned light on and I think one of staff picked it up and took it out.

After my casual cash machine exploration when left hostel about midday (having got up and had uncommunicative breakfast about 10) I went over and looked at the murals at north end of San Juan; quite nice. Guide book implied most museums shut til 4! Went to supermarket and bought deodorant and some apples/pears and bottle of chilled sparkling water; I didn't realise you had to weigh fruit yourself but guy at checkout summoned someone else to go do it for me and while a queue built up we had a bit of a chat; he switched to English and showed me his Sex Pistols tattoo - it has union flag background so he said he has to keep it hidden (under his short-sleeved work polo shit in this case) because of the Malvinas. (This is the first time I think an Argentinian has raised this with me, and he wasn't being arsey, just practical.) Nearly told him I had met John Lydon the other year but didn't as "meet" was a tiny bit of a stretch plus I couldn't be confident (and still haven't checked) John Lydon was actually in the Sex Pistols.

I then went and ate two large apples and a pear by the murals; I still had one apple and one pear left but was really not hungry. Still have in bag and will eat tomorrow if they don't go bad. Spotted a museum in guide book (2010 vintage) which was open all afternoon, but it was shut for renovations (I have a photo; think it was folklore-ish one) and I also went over to museo de la ciudad and that was shut for renovations too.

I was/am feeling a bit bored. Not a really bad bored, but still, and the lingering "where to go next?" issue is annoying me.

After abortive museum attempts I went for a walk up to north bit of Costanera around Parque Mitre; nice enough in its way. Then back to hostel about 4-5ish. As wanted to charge phone had no real alternative but to lie on bed surfing; with the dodgy connector it won't charge if I just hold it in hands, so no scope for sitting in common area near a handy socket. (I can prop the phone up against the bunk headboard and its own weight holds the charge cable in a working position - the bunk has its own elevated socket, and incidentally  a (very bright) light, it's quite well laid out really - and lie on my stomach on the bunk and use the phone as it charges.)

I extended at this hostel for one more night (Wed) on my way out; I had mostly planned to stay that long anyway but played it safe on initial booking in case I hated hostel/city. Bit annoyed as it cost ARS400 which is more than the average for my first three nights, and I *hadn't* investigated making a booking on booking.com first to see price on there, but hardly the end of the world.

My intermittent musings re onward travel and activities:

There's some big ecological reserve (Ibera, and maybe some other things) nearby. This isn't exactly my bag but is mildly of interest. Having had quick poke at 2010 guide book, I kind of get the impression this is nearer to Mercedes (about 3h away by bus) and it all seems a bit potentially boutique or at the very least "need to turn up and then look at tours" and I don't really feel inclined to do that at this point when I have a deadline of being back in BA in just under three weeks. Another time, maybe.

Parana/Santa Fe are about 10/9h by bus; this is super inconvenient, as with the 9h bus here - my current accom is not super near bus terminal (which doesn't help but isn't fundamental problem), and if I go during day this sees me getting in early evening after dark which is a bit stressful, if I go overnight I either (depending on choice of bus times) leave say 6pm and get there at 4am when it's still dark and deserted or leave say 10pm-midnight and get there 6-8am and end up having to loiter for hours at bus terminal here before bus goes or get taxi there after dark. I could go somewhere halfway in 4-5h but not sure there is anywhere, and my mildly tight deadline makes me reluctant to do it. I think TBH I am also feeling a bit tired and lazy after "so much" travel over last n months. Also if I do go to some hypothetical place 4-5h away, since Cordoba is about 14h from here and I do want to go there to get train to BA, I'd then be stuck with a 9-10h trip from hypothetical place to Cordoba and the whole problem with that awkward length of trip recurs.

(I think this is first time I've been out for a beer after dark since I was in Santiago. It's starting to get a little busier at the outdoor tables, tho always been lots of people passing along pedestrianised street.)

I am wondering about just going to Cordoba on a presumably half-decent 14h overnight bus. *But* if I do that on (say) Thursday night, I'm in Cordoba on Friday morning. I have been to Cordoba before, though I'm sure I could profitably pass a few days there regardless. But if I then got the Sunday train to BA, I'd have two weeks in BA, which is a bit much. I could put in nearly a week in Cordoba and get the Thursday train to BA and have about 9 days in BA, which would be fine, but I am not sure it's really "profitable" to put in nearly a week in Cordoba.

I half hoped writing this down would help me think of something but it hasn't yet. Don't get me wrong, none of this is "critical" and even if I'm not doing anything special and slightly anticipating my return home it's still pleasant-ish to be here on holiday and I can have little experiences like the bridge/police yday and the Sex Pistols checkout operator today. But it doesn't quite feel like I'm taking advantage properly.

Obviously I could go place X-place Y-Cordoba in a series of 4-5h hops but apart from not being sure if there are suitable places X and Y (I suppose Parana/Santa Fe might be a place Y) I am reluctant, as given my timescales it would sort of force me to only spend 2-3 days in each of X and Y (I have about 18 days when I leave here Thursday, would like at least 7 in BA at end so that leaves 9 days) and that feels both unsatisfying and gives an unfavourable travel:actually-being-somewhere ratio. Think have waffled before that being in a place is interesting or fun or at least "well, I've seen the place now" but the actual physical moving around can be a bit stressful, plus it takes a chunk of time and mental energy out of the last day in the current place booking travel and accom to the next place.

(If it was earlier in trip and I was less focussed on time, I could image/hope I'd say "yeah, let's do 4-5h hops and spend 3-4 nights in each place en route, if they're dull I can take the chance to relax in them and at least I've given them a try and seen them" . I *think* (though I may be deluding myself and haven't checked back) this is how the journey back up from Concepcion to Santiago worked, although there I did keep having ideas of doing stuff en route which didn't really pan out. And I was under a bit of time pressure then - quite surprisingly similar now I think about it - because again I had a) a flight booked b) wanted to spend a solid but not insane chunk of time in the capital city before the flight.)

Let's stop writing now I think I've got all the key stuff down from today and have a mull and stare at the crowds and drink beer. Plan for tomorrow is very low key, may try some other museums but basically I'm just looking to decide on and plan next leg of trip.

Just realised the supermarket with the Sex Pistols guy is right across the street from here. Just an observation.

Oh, I have an ice bucket for my litre of Schneider, which is nice. Need to be careful but could see myself getting some more empanadas and maybe more beer. Not that anywhere near finished litre yet, I think.

2029 Obviously I could extend my stay here in Corrientes, but (though I could move, of course) especially when staying in dorm I don't feel super comfortable hanging around in hostel too much, and there just doesn't seem that much to do. Don't get me wrong, I could go have a beer down by the river in the sun in the afternoon and so on, but I've done that and I may well do it again tomorrow and even the day after depending on bus timings. In a way it's nice not to do too much, but I'm going a bit past that point really.

I suppose I could just really "go for it" wrt Cordoba and get an apartment there for a week (assuming this is possible; not checked eg airbnb lately re either Cordoba or BA tho back in Jan were some decent-looking cheap BA apts) and then one in BA for a week. (I hope BA isn't going to be way more expensive than Jan memories lead me to believe; it was damn hot there in Jan and maybe demand is low, whereas from memory I expect April to be cooler verging on cold after dark, though still pleasant esp as I am not returning to full-time work and wanting to cling on to the "vacation in warm comfortable place" feeling as I was in 2014. But prob be fine.)

Trouble with an apt is that it opens up massive temptation to spend a lot of time bumming around in it. In some ways this is nice, but right at end of trip when it's not so much a break from the "tiring" tourist stuff (kind of how I sold the Santiago flat to myself) as just resuming my semi-tranquil life back in my own flat in London early it seems a bit counterproductive. Of course I can/will go out for a few hours a day as I did in eg Santiago, and really I don't feel it's obligatory to be running round like a blue-arsed fly "seeing" stuff all day. After all this is "slow travel" (don't quite like that phrase somehow, but like "downshifting" it seems to mostly cover a concept I have in my life, even as I feel the words make me seem a bit of a twat for using them), not a two week vacation where I need to pack every minute full.

Aldous Huxley quote about true travellers enjoying boredom as a sign of their excessive freedom has crossed my mind a few times lately. I think there's something in that and I *do* enjoy being bored in moderation, it feels leisurely (quite beer by the river, slow-verging-on-footsore saunter round some arbitrary park today), but rightly or wrongly I do have this feeling that I *am* a lazy person and while that's generally cool, if I don't push myself a bit I will do absolutely nothing, which is a bit wasteful.

I have no real idea what's going to happen about future travel. It's not just a question of money (though that is a factor, relatively cheap as my travel style is), once I'm not working full time and compelled to alternate 3-4 years before the mast with 6-12 months off, I may only want to travel 2-3 months at a time, perhaps once a year or every 18 months of whatever. I'm not getting too worked up about this, whole point is to see how things go and how I feel (and maybe I'll suddenly feel come October "fuck yeah, I want to go back to Guatemala for a couple of months" and I'll have the flexibility to do it), just making an observation.

2055 Just been asked if need anything else, as have some other tables. Wondering if shutting. But peering at the door they shut at 2300, so that's pretty good - avoids temptation to stay out too late or drink too much, but not under too much pressure.

May well have another drink but don't want to be going back to hostel pissed and I also need to keep an eye on my consumption - I haven't been drinking excessively any one night lately at all, but despite a certain scepticism about the public health-promoted limits on consumption, I am sure it's not good to consume too much even if each individual day is pretty responsible. (Happened to see from a semi-spam e-mail today, incidentally, there is apparently such a thing as "Sober Spring" . I didn't look into it, but this smells to me like more public health wankery. What with the already fairly well-established Dry January "challenge" , how long can it be before we have Fanta-only February,

J20 June, Abstention August/Autumn, etc and every single month of the year we are being hectored by our public health overlords not to drink?)

2111 Feels *slightly* reckless (and what a comparison - and not entirely a cheering one - with eg the old blog entry about Santa Fe when I used to drink more and more regularly) but after brief chat with waitress (they may shut 10 or 1030 depending on demand, but not before 10 when I asked) I am getting two more empanadas and another litre of Schneider. Four pints is hardly insane and while I have a peculiar revulsion to the idea of ringing hostel bell and MoS letting me in thinking I'm pissed, frankly, fuck 'em if they actually do care.

I am leaning a bit towards the "week in Cordoba in apt, week in BA in apt" approach (durations approx) but will continue to mull and ultimately will sort of make decision only tomorrow when I maybe poke on airbnb from hostel wifi after breakfast and check web/go to bus terminal to investigate bus ticket options/buy.

I think I can pay by ccard at this place which will be nice. As I say got some cash earlier but the less cash I spend the better, given the (v approx) 5% surcharge it involves.

I did note while skimming 2010 guide book earlier there is apparently a really slow and from a non-romantic POV crappy train from Posadas to Buenos Aires (*not* Retiro station, can't remember name of it tho). I don't know if that still runs. I am *not* trogging back to Posadas just on offchance and my web pokes a few months ago back in UK re trains in Argentina in general suggest info is super-scarce, but noting this because it is possible that *if* this service has somehow clung on to life  long enough, on a future trip getting a train from BA to Posadas might be a good way to get back to this part of world to visit Iguazu Falls and/or that Ibera ecological area. (The guide book said IIRC nominal time Posadas-BA was 27h "but often much longer" ; 27h may be fiction of my memory, but the qualifier was not - even if this still exists a train that unreliable would be enjoyably quirky if not under time pressure but not something I'd like to be dealing with as I head back to BA for a flight.)

(The fact that train doesn't go to Retiro would allow me to believe it still exists even tho I saw no timetables for it at Retiro. It may well not, and if it does now may not by time I return, but observation FWIW.)

2132 Horribly closing up feel as tables taken in etc. WTF. If I leave half a litre it's still not overly pricey. Feels awkward tho.

2155 Annoyingly been told they are closing, been in to pay and swigging beer (which had already been necking a bit) outside now. 400 but couldn't tip on ccard and due to lack of change had to tip 50 but hey 10 extra tip is nothing compared to 5% of 400 if had had to pay all in cash.

Don't really feel drunk so hope don't look it and no trouble on short walk home or getting into hostel or cleaning teeth before bed.

2157 Suddenly amused to realise this actually makes the typical UK pub feel relaxed wrt opening hours, even on a Tuesday night.

2219 No trouble getting in, as staff woman chatting to friend on hostel entrance. I did somehow walk past entrance without noticing and Google Maps helpfully decided to throw away the starred place which is the hostel; no idea why, but hey, it's Google Maps, the most user-hostile app in the world.

In one of those amazing dorm paradoxes I am only person in here and lights are on; when I came into dorm at 4-5pm one guy was lying on bed reading and lights were out so we spent 95% of time I was in here in the dark (occasionally some rando would turn lights on for few mins; no idea how "rules" work here as nothing ever said in English or Spanish either by way of asking permission or bitching about change). I feel a bit of a loser but hey a) not a drunk one b) two or so guys were hanging around solo in the terracey bit with headphones on so not everyone is partying at a proper bar which didn't shut super early. To be super fair I didn't think CB Schneider was a "proper" bar but esp with memories of BA opening hours I also didn't expect to be forced to neck my second litre like that.

Anyway, have cleaned teeth and may chill with bit of music on my bunk for a bit. Saw little black cat right by dorm door when came back but it ran away for some cat reason.

Oh, and tho checking past blog entries may confirm/deny this, other nights have been other people in dorm at this time of nigjht - ISTR my first night being mildly amazed I was not only person going to bed super early almost as if nothing else to do. But tonight it seems everyone is out.

2342 Few ppl in dorm now. Had couple of visits to bog for piss, but feel OK. Been finishing backup of photos to new 16GB card and listening to some music. Just had Alfredo Danneman/Jazz Entre Amigos version of There'll Be Some Changes Made (or "Habrá Algunos Cambios" as they call it) and am amazed yet again at the sheer energy and joy of this music which I stumbled across on youtube a year or so ago. I hope they had great success at the time but TBH would also be sort of cool if they were actually just a group of mates, someone put a reel-to-reel recording of their grandad and his friends playing on youtube decades later and I am now in my unsophisticated way appreciating it even though they have no critical acclaim. I think I did a quick web search for them with no info a while back but not sure and I should try again at some point.

Corrientes, Monday

Mon 0954 Breakfast. Not as amazing as I'd hoped. Got a coffee and sitting rather awkwardly at the table in kitchen, few croissants and bits of bread 

1553 OK. So as I was writing previous bit got drawn into initially slightly awkward conversation with woman who works at/owns? hostel and other woman (guest) at table. But ended up having decent chat with other guest (Amy) who turns out to be from Cleethorpes, just finished MSc and come out to travel a bit with a friend  (Adam) who has been out here a year filming a documentary about indigenous cultures. Adam came along a bit later and we had a decent chat, he was robbed "at sauce point" as he put it in BA with the old squirt-clean-and-pickpocket scam and lost about $1200 US and worse than that a load of his video footage (including the backup hard drive).

As a result of that conversation also ended up speaking with French guy (Auguste) from Lille who like me is a computer programmer who has quit his job to travel.

Nice to finally get a bit of the stereotypical hostel meeting stuff going. I'm not saying the conversation was Oscar Wilde-level but does seem to confirm my primary problem being *starting* conversations; once I'm in them with a reasonably willing co-interlocutor or two it's fine.

So Auguste mentioned the Costanera here and I came out for a walk; this had been rough plan anyway but since he mentioned it I bent my steps westward to the river. And then I saw a big suspension bridge over it, and thought I'd like to walk across it if I could. And I saw some joggers on it so I headed over to the entrance and got on it and walked across. It's hot but there was a really nice breeze over the river. Took loads of photos and admired the view a bit and it was generally really cool (literally and figuratively) and a bit meditative. The river is almost comically huge, somehow.

Got to far side and crossed the road to walk back across bridge on other side. More of the same. Early in the walk a passing cyclist called out "no te tira" and I waved at him on general principles without fully understanding. I felt a bit threatened by this but eventually (I didn't like to get my phone out to consult dictionary on bridge due to paranoia about dropping it) I realise he was telling me not to jump. Probably joking but who knows? He didn't say it nastily but didn't stop and I don't seriously think I looked like I was going to jump but I guess it's hard to judge as you pass.

About halfway across on the return leg my mullings about the possibility of a nice photo of one of the suspension towers with the blue sky and the city in the background and an interesting and colourful truck coming towards me over the bridge crystallised and I spent maybe an hour taking possibly hundreds of photos as vehicles came over. (Annoyingly a really striking bright yellow monster of an Amarilla Gas truck carrying bright yellow domestic gas cylinders crossed but going the wrong way, and hope as I might I never got one of those going the way I was photographing. Did get some other yellowish AG trucks but nothing like that one.)

I had been on the verge of stopping *anyway* when about three police converged on me. I am a little bit unsure but there initially seemed to be two and then a woman turned up. On the one hand, kudos to myself for not completely flipping out and for managing the Spanish language aspect of the thing pretty well. On the other hand, a bit disturbing. Turned out you're not supposed to/they didn't like me being stood on the bridge, there was a risk off falling (it didn't feel like it, but to be fair as they pointed this out I noticed a rare spot where there was a foot-wide gap in the railings and if you had stumbled/leaned at the right/wrong point you'd just have gone over) and they were (I gather) suicide prevention watch or similar. I apologised profusely, explained I had no intention of jumping and offered to walk back immediately but they insisted on driving me back. I resisted a temptation to ask if I was under arrest and did my best to make polite conversation, telling them about the cyclist telling me not to jump. I wondered if they were going to take me to my hostel to check up on my story or to a police station but they let me out on the Costanera not far from the end of the bridge.

Couldn't stop semi-nervously chuckling to myself about it just after. But all worked out OK and I guess it's a nice story to tell and if I *did* get a decent photo (my feeling that there was potentially a good photo to be had there may or may not be correct, and even if it was I may not have really gone one I like anyway) and get it made into a photo I can hang on my wall it will have some extra memories attached to it.

A lot of food trucks with tables along Costanera though most shut; I have come to one which wasn't and which had an acceptable looking menu on wall; after dithering a while owner offered me a menu and I got a pizza especial and a sugar-free pizza and I plan to have a litre of beer now I've finished the food. I asked and there's no toilet but apparently I can use the one in the casino over the road free no problem; I don't really need to go now and I hope not to be desperate after a litre but we'll see. Hostel is not close but not a million miles away if push comes to shove.

Weather is pleasantly warm sitting here in shade by river (can see the bridge in the distance :-) ) with a bit of a breeze. Pizza wasn't amazing but not bad. Had a bit of a chat with owner in Spanish when he brought my drink over before the food.

Had quick poke on web this morning and it's about 12-13h by direct bus from here to Cordoba. So while I don't really plan to do it, I could probably go straight from here to there in one convenient overnight. What I will probably do instead is stop off at one intermediate place, probably Parana or Santa Fe (they are virtually neighbours), but we'll see what happens.

Didn't actually sleep super well as do remember waking up during night, but in some sense did sleep well, mild aircon helped give pleasantish temperature and bunk not wobbly and generally felt OK albeit slightly worried about phone falling down crack at edge of bed (I got a corner bunk for moderately improved privacy). Managed to leave phone propped up in a charge-capable position most of the night and think I started the day on 90-odd%.

Tue 1214 Just a quick note before I head out re last night. Lost a 32GB SD card by putting it on bed as I was scrabbling around to get into a better position; had a damn good look on floor but can't find it and it's probably fallen among possesions of guy on lower bunk which I obviously can't go rooting around in. It was "only" a backup of photos but still damned annoying. Adam and some new arrival were chatting in Spanish in dorm and engaging in a minor bit of indigenous-flute playing around 2230 which didn't keep me awake but felt a bit out of order.

Was lying on bunk from about 9 (not moving as tried to copy 14GB on data onto a new backup SD card), had very brief "hello" kind of chat with Auguste in kitchen when got back yday and had slash and then a coffee sitting in "hall" before going into dorm to upload/back up yday's precious photos. Was in bunk "intending" to sleep from 2230ish but didn't get off til gone 1 I thinj. Slept a bit badly but sort of OK.

Puerto Iguazu-Corrientes

Sun 0920 Just got to terminal. No problems. Woke up 3am to see phone apparently still connected to charger but having run batt down from 15%ish to 2%ish, despite sitting unused and in aeroplane mode. Fiddled with it and luckily it got up to 80% by time left room at about 0840.

Had remaining sandwiches and two bananas and swigged some liquid back in room, but have come out with nearly 2.5 litres of water when I'd prefer to have just 1. But it's not too hot yet and the walk over was a mild slog but not terrible.

Left key on table in front of house as no one around and door was shut so didn't like it start shouting around, plus was anxious to get off.

1002 On bus, all OK. In hindsight since most seats were free I should have picked one of the front ones for a better view (semi-cama is on top deck) but no matter. Got aisle seat anyway and so far I am only person on bus, tho I know seat across aisle from me will be occupied at some point. Allowed on with bag, it got some sort of ticket attached, ticket checking guy didn't take any interest in my passport but maybe someone will check it once we leave.

1005 Been given small plastic tray with a mini ham and cheese baguette (hot dog bun size) and small packet of biscuity things. Not totally stuffed from eating earlier but not massively hungry so will leave this for bit. Not opened it to examine baguette for mayonnaise but have a feeling it may be fine. We're off anyway.

1018 Worried about baguette (really is more of a hot dog bun) getting warm and manky so eaten it. Quite nice, little sachet of what looks like mayo (tho can't see any text saying what it *is* actually) so none on the baguette itself. Will leave biscuits for now (I brought some of my own too), stuffed them in daypack.

1433 Changing bus for some reason. I didn't hear any announcement but everyonme else seemed to know so maybe there was one.

Old bus had USB port on seat (as does new one and indeed at least one other bus been on) but my wonderful phone seemed to actually discharge slightly when connected to it - perhaps the charge port only supplies 2A and the phone, seeing a charger connected, allows the zillion background apps and services and OS shit to run freely and burn 2.2A or something.

This bus has really loud sound on the film showing on the pop-down screens, hard to ignore even with headphones.

Just checked Google Maps, we're in Posadas.

1512 Oh, on walk to terminal this morning there *seemed* (on a very wide grassy verge at side of main road I was walking along; no pavement) to be a bit group of guys with one or two pointing guns at the occupants of a car. I'm quite prepared to believe I imagined this; I formed the impression the guys with guns were cops, but really did not like to stare at what was going on just in case.

2050 On bunk in hostel. Upper bunk. Reserve clearly bullshit. Otherwise no great problems, except despite long and friendlyish Spanish discussion had to pay VAT anyway "because this is just a small place" . May complain to booking.com after leave.

Bus trundled enormously from 1900 to 1930 and did massive detour round Corrientes before entering town, was getting worried this was some "access to Corrientes" shit and I'd missed the stop miles out of town, but all fine.

Took about 45 mins to walk from terminal to hostel but not particularly dark or intimidating.

Feel typing may piss ppl off so prob stop now bashed out essentials and try to go to sleep. Bunk does have socket and light so if phone didn't suck I'd be delighted except for upper bunk. Cleaned teeth but not had shower, will do it after breakfast tomorrow. Which looks a bit intimidatingly communal if it is in the kitchen area but see what happens...

Puerto Iguazu, Saturday

Sat 2239 Slept a bit badly, weird bad-but-not-nightmare dreams, however, did ultimately get up maybe 1030ish feeling moderately well rested.

Bit of poke on web and quick check of old e-mails to see if I'd been there before and look at guide book etc. From the photos I took at Retiro of the timetables, if I do want to get a train back to BA (just for the experience, not really the practicality) the best option is probably the service leaving Cordoba at 1430 every Thu/Sun, arriving BA 0930 next morning. That's pretty nice, though arriving that early likely means some hanging around before I can check in, but not too bad, and given I hope to be renting an apartment via airbnb may be able to check in early. Other options from Rosario and Tucuman either leave around midnight or get in really late or take simply forever. I can't remember exact price and not digging out photo to check, but I think a cabin (no idea if shared or not), the top-price option, on the Cordoba-BA run is something like thirty or forty pounds, which is tolerable.

So I want to be heading down to Cordoba over the next week or so; plan is to spend a week or ten days or whatever in BA (but don't want to overdo it). If something interesting crops up en route this plan can be discarded, but it's the plan unless something else does crop up. So looking at map and guide book etc and checking some bus timetables on web, I am going to Corrientes tomorrow and I will probably then go Santa Fe (been there in 2010) or Parana (right by Santa Fe, don't think been there) then Cordoba, but that's just provisional.

The nine hour bus to Corrientes is a bit awkward; it's too short to really do overnight (esp given checkout here is 11am and even if it wasn't I'd be hanging around all day and walking to the bus terminal at 5pm to get there before dark and hanging around for hours) but doing it takes pretty much a full day. Dithered a bit and decided a 1000 bus was an acceptable compromise; I may well walk (I'll be getting in 1930; it will be dark but not small hours) or can get taxi if nec. Briefly considered stopping off in Pousadas (about 4h away and almost certainly somewhere my Corrientes bus will pass through) but seeing it's on the border with Encarnacion (IIRC) made me remember (not checked blog tho) being there are not finding it super pleasant at the time (OK, but nothing amazing) and so I'm reluctant to break my journey there right now when time is just a tiny bit tighter than earlier in the trip.

Went over to Casa de Botellas (just down road from this hotel/apartment/whatever to call it), 200 to get in (but it supports their charity, so sort of OK I guess) which felt a bit steep considering I was in there for what felt like half an hour tops, including a brief one-on-one guided tour (bit stressful as was worried my Spanish would fail but it's all practice and I got 90% of the content I think) and a tiny wander on own afterwards. A couple of guys were filming an interview with presumably one of the project guys which meant I didn't quite get to loiter and take photos at end as much as I'd have liked. But all that notwithstanding it was pretty cool, and while it seems superficially a little bit specialised (I mean, yes, these poor people need houses, but collecting 18k odd bottles and n shipping pallets and so forth requires a big local (because transporting 18k bottles long distance would cost a fortune; I asked) effort to collect them (they ask schools to get kids to bring them in; Coca Cola bottles are the preferred sort - obviously you need uniform bottles - as they're strong and common) and it seems hard to believe it's a viable solution for "lots" of people. OTOH there are apparently many of these houses built, they even look normal by the time the bottles are plastered/concreted over (you can run electricity and water in the walls as with a regular house), it *is* very clever and apparently one person can build a (small) house in about 15 days.

Was mildly tempted to buy one of the soft drink can made cooking vessels (little tins for things like IIRC boiling water/making mate/storing cocktail sticks) in gift shop at not ridiculous ARS120 but resisted - I wouldn't *use* such a thing (no need, plus it would be a souvenir so reluctant to use anyway) and I have nowhere to display it and I really need to be getting *rid* of stuff not acquiring more. I suspect you can find instructions on how to make such things yourself on web and notwithstanding huge opportunities for slicing fingers open in the process (though these finished items were super smooth and had obviously been filed or similar to remove rough edges) it might be vaguely cool to experiment with such a thing once back home.

Came back to hotel briefly after for water (v hot today) and a bit of a muse and then trogged painfully into town to buy ticket. Asked at couple of windows in terminal but ended up going with Rio Uruguay as the price had seen on web was same as one quoted by another company and the other co didn't have a 1000 service. As it turns out that web price of 1200ish was for credit card and it was only 1000 in cash. Luckily I had all my withdrawn cash (all in 100s for that gangster feel; just how the machine gave it to me) so was able to pay cash - that saving is way larger than the extra cost of withdrawing cash. (It nearly covers the withdrawal fee on its own, and I can withdraw 4k for that fee.)

Had toyed with going to restaurant but been tempted by idea of sandwiches and soft drinks in hotel room given fridge is there, and that plus fact most restaurants looked a bit pricey or cheap but not air conditioned and I was feeling sweaty as fuck tipped me towards sandwiches, so stopped at supermarket on walk back and got (slightly too much, given am leaving here about 0830 tomorrow - and am dreading trogging into town with bag, but hopefully won't be too hot that early) stuff and been eating/drinking it in between bouts of YT/web surfing and trying to sort out accom and packing etc.

Stopped off at couple of cash machines after bus terminal, the Austral Express one still wouldn't give me over 4k. Banco de la Nacion had no queue, their fee is 250ish (similar to Austral Express) and initially I thought they were going to let me withdraw 10k but they didn't. Of course the machines never say what the limit *is*, just that you're not allowed that much. I kept trying again on BdlN machine and I think it probably has a 4k limit too. I didn't withdraw any cash, since I hoped to be able to pay for next accom on credit card (and if not could prob get cash somewhere en route) and just possibly this 4k limit is local and eg machines in Corrientes will have a higher one.

Dithered a bit re accom for Corrientes and frankly a big faff. Could have got a private room on booking.com for something like USD72 for three nights which is borderline tolerable but pricey. Found a private room on airbnb for about ten quid a night, booked and got automatic confirmation then shortly after owner replied to say she was away travelling (lucky she did reply otherwise I could have had a repeat of last fuckup). This has been cancelled and I may have acquired literally a couple of quid as a small bonus. airbnb had very few properties, some of them had response rates of 50-odd% and response times of "a few days" so no use to me for tomorrow, some were in the next town over but you couldn't see that until you clicked on them. I would probably have booked the USD72 room but it did feel pricey and the fact you had to pay cash (and I don't have much and would rather not have to withdraw cash at terminal after dark in Corrientes, not to mention the whole 5%+ surcharges for withdrawing cash) tipped me over the edge and I decided to book a dorm at a cheap hostel (price is suffering the usual VAT shit  but it's tolerable anyway and maybe I won't have to pay it after all since they are supposed to accept cards and that in theory removes obligation to pay VAT - really hate all this vague wank), they take cards and although they seem to be applying a slightly in-their-own-favour USD-ARS rate they have been pretty decent in replying quickly to my request for a lower bunk, so moderately impressed so far.

Staying in dorm really not ideal but also starting to lack any real "terror" . Biggest hassles are a) inability to do laundry in sink, but I'm temporarily well supplied with clean clothes b) given current mobile phone charging shit any extra complications due to shortage of sockets or no socket near bed are not welcome, but neither of these is critical. It also seriously brings costs down and in moderation is no bad thing. I've had a few nights of privacy etc here and I'm going to have a private apt in BA and probably some other places between here and BA. When I say it brings costs down, it depends. I think here in Puerto Iguazu the presence of this place (albeit a bit out of town) meant I'm paying dorm-level prices for a private room (and saw one hotel in town nr terminal offering prob private room for not much more), so a dorm would not necessarily save a lot, but in other places such as Corrientes it does have a big price advantage. So it's all a balancing act between comfort, convenience and price.

Could have seen more tourist stuff here (there is some sort of mine and some other falls maybe 20-30km out of town I think) but doing the nicely self-discovered CdB today was cool and I'll doubtless be back and can do some of the other "non-essential" stuff then. There is an ice bar just round the corner, which was very slightly tempting, but it's not as if this is something super-Argentinian (I know there was one in London at some point, some friends went tho I didn't), I suspect it's pricey, I didn't really want to be coming back after dark due to dog risk or having to get a taxi somehow and given you have to get togged up in cold weather gear at the entrance (AIUI) I expect there's either an entrance fee or at least a time-consuming delay and probably drinks are super-expensive so it's not like I could just pop in for one beer to see what it's like, or somewhere I could sit comfortably on my own and chill (pun half intended), if I were with a group it might be different but as it is just not *that* interested.

Got laundry back when popped in after CdB, all socks present and correct which was good, and although still a little bit the wash did get most of the oil off the combats, which is nice.

Also got chance to finally hand over all cash owing when owner spotted me heading out this morning and asked for cash to pay the laundry.

At some point over last few days (not for first time) briefly considered value of buying a Lifestraw water filter gadget (or maybe one of the more intense-looking things seen on onebag.com) to save buying bottled water. But they're not cheap (and the onebag ones require power too, which makes me wonder just how good the unpowered Lifestraw can be - but not researched this in detail), and it's something else to break/lose, and I'd *still* be lugging water around on "travel days" (eg on bus) because you don't have a source of untrustworthy water on the bus. It *might* provide a modest financial saving over time but often part of what I'm buying with a bottle of water is the luxury of having it chilled, and although I do see some drinking fountain/tap things around (eg on Macuco (sp) trail at Iguazu Falls)) it's not as if you can rely on this sort of thing, so in practice you'd (as I already said) need to be lugging around a bottle of (admittedly free) water pre-filled at accom that morning anyway. And while I suppose the possibility of fraud always exists (not *the* reason I buy it, but one benefit of getting sparkling water where possible is it's less convenient to fake), bottled water does seem pretty damn trustworthy and I'd probably always be worrying about accidental contamination using any purification device. (And I have no idea if it would help stop me getting sick from things like the alleged safe-but-disturbing-to-tourists metals in the water in Santiago.)

This thought perhaps triggered just now by realisation I have over-bought bottled water and am either going to end up lugging an extra bottle with me tomorrow (it will ultimately come in handy, but it's damn heavy on long slogs to/from bus terminals with full bag, and much better to not buy it here and instead buy it at other end where it's been transported for me by the magic of global capitalism) or end up leaving some behind. But I still think buying bottled water is probably best option overall. It would also have been easier to avoid temptation to over-buy here if I wasn't in such a remote spot with no prospect of just popping out at 10pm to buy more if necessary. Plus I was so hot and sweaty at the point of purchase it was difficult to imagine how I could possibly buy *too much* refreshing, cold liquid. ;-)

Puerto Iguazu, Friday

Fri 1205 On bus leaving terminal for falls. Had to pay cash for bus ticket, said they didn't take cards.

Woke up 8ish, poss on alarm, feeling surprisingly shit and maybe hungover (only had one can beer last night). Phone charging also a fuckfest when blearily examined it at 8am, had to turn it off and leave it propped up at angle on floor to "ensure" charge. Therefore no alarms, didn't hear watch alarm 9am (it was on floor in shoe not worn) but luckily woke 925ish and dragged self out of bed maybe 20 mins later. Sandwiches and biscuits for breakfast and prob left accom 11ish. No sign of anyone to pay or ask about laundry. Have to wander round house tonight.

Got some water and biscuits and a can of beer (have one left at home but be nice to maybe have two tonight) at supermarket on walk over to terminal and plan is to not have to trog into town on way home tonight, just get off bus as near accom as possible and not buy anything.

It's later than I'd like but can't be helped, I did feel knackered this morning and still feel a bit tired now. Guess I am walking a lot.

Phone charging and continual battery level worries pissing me off but nothing I can do. Not trusting a local repair shop even if could find one (it *does* just about work), I can't diagnose the problem (I *know* USB socket is iffy about making contact, but is cable ropey too? is charger playing up and not putting out much current? even the power bank seems to charge up ultra slowly even now it's left plugged in uninterrupted all day in my private accom) because I have only one of everything so can't mix and match - if I knew USB  cable or charger were iffy I'd buy a local replacement but I don't and reluctant to do it on chance, when phone has been shitty about charging for ages really.

If phone gets so it simply cannot be charged even when turned off (to eliminate software burning all power instead of it being used to charge) and propped up (to ensure solid connection on dodgy connector) I may have to take it to a local repairer, but until that happens I will continue to limp along as I am. I can then look into trying to mend it myself or taking it into a shop back in UK.

(If nothing else, if UK shop breaks it completely it's both easier to argue and less devastating than if that happens here. I have no other communication device and these days most places don't have public computers, not to mention difficulty of signing in wrt 2FA and stuff without my phone.)

All this does argue for carrying a second cheap smartphone on a future trip.

1752 On bus waiting to return to town; asked if can be dropped at fancy hotel right near my accom and said I could. Should have time to pop into little shop near accom (if open) for water.

Not a bad day. Boat to island not running - wonder if it ever is, was hoping to do it yday but not exactly looking for it precisely but didn't notice it as an option. Did Mapoco (sp) trail - 3.5km there and same back to a nice little waterfall with pool at bottom. Remember doing this on last visit. Signs say no swimming in pool (just a symbol, no text) but a couple of people were sort of wading/paddling and no idea if that's allowed or maybe winked at or maybe not allowed. Didn't see anyone at base of the fall in pool. Pretty quiet down there. I put hand in water just for hell of it - cold but not freezing.

Saw pretty big spider on path on walk over - not super colossal but way bigger tthan typical UK big one and it moved in a strange jumpy way. Watched in mixture of horror and fascination and it jumped into grassy area at side of track before could get camera out.

Bus going soon think so stop writing to concentrate on getting off, tho it's a while yet.

2312 I'm untrustworthy with these estimates but let's say that spider had a leg span of 3-4 inches. Didn't see any more of them. Quite a few very large (inch long?) black ants, and some much smaller but more numerous ants scurrying about, as well as the odd small lizard (too quick to hide to photograph).

I had actually gone into middle bit of park (Cataratas station bit) on arrival with a view to checking out boat trip to Isla San Martin on lower trail but it was closed. I think I already wrote this. Yes, I did. Anyway, I then saw that Macuco (sp - correct spelling is on a photo) trail shut at 3pm and it was 1230-1 by this point so walked back to initial bit of park to get that. When that finished I had a couple of hoursish before park closed (5pm starts winding down I think) so did lower trail, having fairly good old meditate/muse on random internal stuff (resolving to take Harry Browne's advice a bit more seriously if I can, for example) during it including a nice little muse at "private" Salto Chico. I started to head back to exit at about 1715, I didn't get prompted by any rangers but just saw no point in trying to milk it til last minute, would just be miserable.

Would have been nice to go to Devil's Throat again but decided what I did was better use of time.

Oh, it was *much* quieter today than yesterday, for no obvious reason. Sure the Macuco trail is not so popular (and it was far from deserted) but "main" park before and after seemed noticeably less rammed.

Got off bus at Hotel Exe Cataratas, got water at little shop and when got back to accom texted to ask about paying and extending and laundry. Still not actually paid (tho had brief awkwardish chat with son(?) as I took my laundry basket in as per instructions) but anyway I can stay another night and price is OK, they don't have washing machine for public use but charge 250 for a basket of laundry - this feels a bit steep, given I couldn't fill the basket (even though I chucked in not-strictly-necessary-could-wait-for-hand-wash-or-even-back-home items like my own towel and the fleece) but decided I'd pay it. If nothing else noticed on arriving here few days ago combat trousers were explicably muddy on legs (from no-pavement walk from bus terminal to accom) but had also acquired inexplicable black linear oil (?) stains quite high up the legs, and maybe a machine wash has more chance of getting those off.

I need to decide where to go next but have had a beer (and will have another in a minute, I think) and watched bit of YT tonight. Plan tomorrow is to get up not too early but not too late, about 10, have a bit of a poke on web and decide where to go next then go out, *maybe* into town to buy bus tkt if unwilling to wing it and buy on the day, just a gentle wander and eat in a cheap restaurant, and just maybe some low-key tourist attraction (eg slightly cheesy looking poster for "casa de botellas" just down road from here - "sorprendese!" ) but not an overly full day. Done hell of lot of walking yday and today and was feeling a bit knackered today TBH.

Puerto Iguazu, Thursday

Thu 1026 Long queue for cash machine. Long queue at one other cash machine I saw. No fucking idea why. Feels like shit which comes up on web from 2015 when searching for ATM advice for Argentina.

Feels like day slipping away, got up 930 but had to come into town for cash and supermarket snacks, cos the hotel is so rural I daren't go out after dark in case of dogs and I'm sure food costs an arm and a leg inside the park. Buses may run almost past hotel to park but no good to me as had to trog into town for cash.

Phone being an arse last night and not charging even when sat at black screen with charger plugged in; been doing this since at least Mendoza and don't think anything to do with now-dodgy connection, which adds an extra layer of shit.

Eco-fascists have Argentina or at least PI in thrall; no free carrier bags in supermarket.

And seen sign and experienced in practice by law you have to show ID when using a ccard. The supermarket accepted ccard sized copy of passport.

1113 Jesus fucking wept. 320 for a return Rio Uruguay ticket at "local" side of bus terminal. Not paid yet. Expected a proper local city bus which in Brazil cost under a quid each way, here they want over six quid for a return.

Woman behind me broke ice and had brief conv with bloke in front of massively non-moving queue at Banco de la Nacion. Poor Spanish skills on my part? There's a shortage of money which is temporary but there is always a shortage!? I walked after couple of mins, had prev found a cash machine with oddly no queue which would give me 4k (about 80 quid) for "only" 249 fee and clearly that's the best I can do. Had already planned to use ccard as much as possible but was hoping to wd 200 or 250 quid to minimise fee. Yes maybe there's a shortage so wd rationed?? but I am extra fucked because I get hit with a gigantic non-percentage-based fee every time I withdraw.

Bought goddam 320 tkt with cash as bus had turned up but it was a decoy and drove off immediately. No sign of actual city bus type service and it's getting late.

Need to cheer up. HMHB's "Surging out of convalescence" has sprung unbidden to mind in the last few minutes. (I had "Totnes Bickering Fair" in my head for a good chunk of time during visit to Brazilian side FWIW.)

Thing is I'm feeling rushed (due to wanting to spend a "long day" at falls) and have had to engage in various time consuming chores first and been fucked around by banks. Anyway, on bus heading out now so let's try to chill.

Fri 0026 So got to falls and there was a certain familiarity about the layout of the park and the train once I got there - I had been there in 2010 of course. Was prob about 1200 by time got there if not bit later.

Tried not to rush round.

Only used train once, right at end. Walked green trail to central area where upper and lower trails are, and walked those in that order. For some reason (bearing in mind people arrive continuously, though trains every 30 mins will provide *some* clumping) it was really painfully busy at start of upper trail. Walkways often wide enough for two abreast, if you stopped to take a photo (esp wearing even small backpack) or heaven forbid stare out at the view (not easy given the bustle) you were blocking half the walkway, and getting back into the single-file stream of people after such a pause felt like a traffic manoeveur (sp). But for some reason it thinned out later during upper trail (despite it being mostly sequential), it wasn't ever *quiet* but totally acceptable, a bit more like Brazilian side had been.

Think there is loads more to "do" on Arg side, but not to diminish Braz side and it was also nice to be walking today having seen some of where I'd walked from Braz side and vice versa. Realised large greyish building I had wondered about from Braz side was new hotel (old one shut 1976 and is now offices and a small museum which I went in) in Arg side of park.

As walking towards upper trail along really busy path there's an area (prob near food court) with *loads* of coatis and monkeys. A coati jumped up at a woman in front of me eating some sort of tissue-wrapped snack. There were signs warning both animals could scratch and bite and steal food. I put my daypack down to get bottle of water out, and three coatis (a largish one and two smaller ones I think, tho really this was all over pretty quick) came over immediately and sniffed at my open daypack as I drank and despite my trying to drag bag away (keeping hands away from opening, I think), the coati grabbed at the (not sealed) plastic bag I'd got from supermarket containing two bananas (luckily I had eaten one a few mins earlier) and legged it. A massive feeding frenzy/fight among hordes of coatis and monkeys ensued (I saw a monkey with a bit of banana shortly after) and the crowd naturally noticed this and I felt super conspicuous, though really attention was not on me and I hadn't done it on purpose - it was in hindsight a bit cool but also annoying (I wanted to eat those bananas myself!) and as per signs you can see this kind of stuff does make them aggressive (though unless plastic bag causes problems I guess at least bananas probably aren't too bad for them, not like empanadas or other snacky shit). At least they didn't get my packets of biscuits.

Not saying upper trail isn't impressive, because it is, but think lower trail had some better views. Enjoyed rainbow effects of mist, the soaking spray  from one of the big falls at end of lower trail and also the relative privacy of a semi-"secret" little offshoot at the bottom of Salto Chico (which anywhere else would be a pretty impressive waterfall in its own right) where I was often alone for minutes at a time and even when not there were typically one or two other people there.

Didn't go down the right offshoot of lower trail to get boat to island, not sure if that's free or not.

Walked up (alongside train track) to station for Devil's Throat. Long hike out there on walkways but thanks to having walked up I was about the only person going out at that point; it was also late in day which may have helped. Still lots of ppl at the end of the walkways of course but OK.

Even before today had memories of being at DT in 2010. Was pretty impressive and got a bit meditative staring at the water (also had some of this during esp lower trail; the patterns of foam and vapour spraying around quite fascinating and pseudo-hypnotic). Thought that if some possibly-true fact about how every glass of water you drink contains a water molecule which has passed through body of anyone who ever lived (not tried to check this yet, just half-remembered thing) is true, the same would apply in spades to the water gushing past me - some of *my* water molecules were right there, as were those of anyone I'd ever cared about. Also thought about how I'd been there 9 years ago and was older etc, but not really all that melancholy-inducing, and in many ways I'm better off now than I was then.

Ranger tapped me on shoulder at 1700 and said they were closing soon; loads of other people still there, but I didn't hang around and got last train back all the way to entrance 1730. I had pretty much decided earlier to go back tomorrow for 50% discounted admission, as evidently some minor stuff I hadn't done today plus it is quite cool and *relatively* cheap and I had no other real plans for tomorrow anyway. I did make sure I did all the "major" stuff today in case for some reason decide not to return tomorrow.

Bit of struggle to get tkt "re-validated" for tomorrow (it would be too simple if you could just turn up with your dated ticket tomorrow; I guess this may be to ensure it's the same person as they did ask to see ID when got it re-validated - since I had paid on ccard had to show ID when bought tkt but just poss that isn't "attached" and despite English-language sign above ticket desks, overheard one of cashiers saying you *don't* need ID to buy tkt with cash) but managed eventually.

Got bus into town, got off (slightly) before terminal to save bit of walking. Bought beer and bread and salami and ham and some fizzy sugar-free citrus drink at supermarket and brought them home, taking advantage of having fridge in room. Had been bit worried about sunset and it was deep dusk as came down deserted no-street-lights side street to hostel (worried about dogs, not people) but tho bit nerve inducing got home fine.

Didn't see anyone to speak to so still not paid or asked about laundry. Mildly shit but not terrible. May manage to speak to someone tomorrow, don't want to loiter excessively but not *too* rushed tomorrow.

Been super lazy (but then did have a full day) tonight and just watched some YT. In particular have *not* decided where to go next so no idea what to do about buses and whether they'll be day or overnight or what.

Feels bit lax but I may extend here another night in part due to this. Except for "gotta be home before dark" issues due to location (but I'm not gasping for a night out right now) it's cheap and comfortable here and while don't want to waste time don't have to run around like a blue-arsed fly to save a day here and there. No super pressing goals for rest of trip. Plus physically moving around is (I think; not checked numbers to back this up) one of the more expensive parts of being a tourist. Accommodation is often cheap, a few beers and a meal doesn't cost much, but long-distance buses or flights really do rack up the expenses. So while obvious to some extent travelling is the point, haring around like mad isn't good for comfort, serendipity or the budget.

Quite a few biggish spiders hanging over some of the rivers around the walkways. Despite being big they were spindly enough and not in-my-face enough to be more fascinating than seriously disturbing.

There's a largish (UK style, nothing extreme) spider over bathroom door which I noticed this evening but it's one of those really spindly jobs which don't really bother me that much if they just keep out of the way, as this one seems to be doing.

Prob forgot something but going to send this now as need to get to bed and phone batt super low and I can't charge it as I write due to dodgy USB connector and the clever way the "charger connected/disconnected" pop up interferes with typing.