Santiago-Sao Paulo

Wed 0454 In building reception. Was half awake at 3am I think, did snooze on alarm at 4 til about 405 but was quite deliberate, got up, cleaned teeth, had coffee, finished packing (toothbrush etc). Had to leave key locked in flat so hope I haven't forgotten anything but checked round many times etc.

Feel a bit sad to be leaving and a bit scared (overstated but still) as next day or two going to be a little bit stressful but there you go. Not really doing anything I haven't done before, just not done these things that recently.

Hope car turns up soon, I really hate waiting for personalised pickups. Here now?

0516 Wow, that was fast. Estimate when booked was 38ish mins IIRC (presumably due to being middle of night and little traffic, as was indeed case), we actually left about 0457ish. Just had e-mail saying 4:57-5:15. Seatbelt (lap belt) in back of van was super loose but all part of the Latin American experience. :-) Driver had Disco Mix 80's  (could see playlist name) on low, not a problem, just adding some colour to this blog entry. Tipped him 1k, prob not necessary but tis OK.

Obviously now got ages at airport but that's life.

Put fleece on, not cold but it's not too warm for it and it de-bulks my bag a bit and has extra pockets. There's a migration control bit at entrance to international departures, I don't think there's any reason to hold off going through there. Given I have vast bulk of my possessions at least plus no way to get into flat and getting back there would cost a fortune there's no way I'm going back into town.

0616 At gate C08. Has all that really taken an hour?

Border control OK tho the guy asked for my boarding pass and gave it back to me (at which point I put it in my pocket) three times. He kept asking questions about where I'd been (including mentioning Buenos Aires), which all seemed a bit weird, but whatever.

Like a fuckwit I didn't realise security would be immediately after border control and therefore couldn't keep my bottle of water. Had I known I'd probably have lingered before border control and eaten the food I brought with my water. Fucking hate being deprived of water unless I pay through the nose to buy some, but hey, terrorism!

Security OK, signs etc showed no scissors (no mention of blade size) so I hoiked my nail scissors out of bag and put them loose in security tray and no one said anything so at least I got to keep them. No fuss at all, I put my belt etc in bag and managed not to forget anything and no one quibbled about my liquids or anything.

Noticed a coke vending machine on walk to gate selling 600ml bottles of water for CLP1k, which seemed borderline tolerable. Normally I'd avoid buying water because I'm not desperate at the departure airport (I just drank at security and at flat this morning) but this is a budget flight with no free food or drink (I would maybe hope water is an exception but I doubt it, budget airlines being what they are) so I splurged. Did go to a shop and a small cafe first and shop wanted 1750 and cafe 1450 so amazingly vending machine cheaper. I appreciate I'm just supposed to not care about money, it's only a few quid, blah blah, but fuck that. A few quid here, a few quid there, it adds up. There are other better things I can spend the money on.

I also knew I had 1k in change in pocket having sorted change out yday when making sure I spent soon-to-be-invalid coins, so I was able to offload that into the vending machine - given there's always a risk coins will simply sit in my London flat forever and never get spent this also eased the pain of buying water.

Going to snack on some chocolate biscuits and peanuts/raisins I have with me. Had toyed with not eating these yet as I'm not really hungry but I have to assume having them in my possession may cause shit on arrival in Brazil. (eg look at how ultra restrictive Chile is - *nothing* seems to be permitted in terms of "food" on arrival)

0714 I think I am the only peeson at the gate. Maybe a handful nearby. I thought there were more but it was apparently overspill from a flight at next gate. I did perhaps get here early, but it's not that early any more.

0843 On plane (A320neo according to safety card), no problems with bag, no one seems to have been checking very overtly which is "normal" but budget airlines always make me edgy. I assume they *would* have noticed if I had brought my bag on without purchasing hand baggage, tho just possibly it would slip through as the free "hand bag" everyone is allowed - but I guess if they charge for regular hand baggage on the zero fare they probably enforce it, and it wouldn't have been worth risking it anyway.

Leg room is perhaps a bit lacking but may be my imagination, in any case it's fine for me - got to get some advantages from being short.

1444 Jesus fucking wept. It was all going too well. No paperwork to fill in at immigration. Phone worked. Customs queue bit long but waved through. Uber sweet as a nut. Got to hotel and the woman on the desk speaks nothing but Portuguese - which in itself would be fair enough - but also showed no fucking recognition whatsoever of the concept of a booking.com reservation when I showed her the booking confirmation. I have been speaking to her in Spanish but I don't think she understands me; I sure as fuck don't understand 99% of what she says, not that this stops her talking. I have even resorted to Google Translate-ing a few sentences and she reads them out but they either don't make sense or she's being obtuse. I had to pay cash instead of card - I *think* she said the machine wasn't working - and despite lengthy attempts (including Google Translate and simply translating the word "receipt" on web) she seems unable to give me any kind of receipt, so I am a bit worried I'm going to get into a row where the hotel deems me a no-show. I'm practically certain this is the right place - the number outside is exactly correct and the price the woman eventually wrote on a bit of paper is exactly what I expected to pay - and the area doesn't seem exactly replete with hotels (it is, as mentioned on web, slightly sketchy looking) so I really don't see how I can have come to the wrong place.

She also took me to room 6 before realising the key was for room 9, *even though it had 'nove' or something like that written at the bottom*, which seems odd. Maybe she is illiterate, but she *did* read one of the Google Translate things out loud so she can't be completely illiterate.

At least I have a room. These kind of linguistic challenges are all part of travel but it will be easier to take them as challenges if I don't feel I'm in a sketchy area not speaking language about to have to go in quest of another hotel.

I am going to reorganise my possessions re security now I have a "base" and then go out and try to find the bus terminal and exchange my ticket voucher for an actual ticket.

There is one socket in room which is nominally for the loudest fan in the world. Of note is that it's a Euro-style socket *but* the adapter I picked up at side of road in Chile doesn't work because the socket is recessed and the adaptor doesn't fit. The multi-country adapter I bought when I arrived in Chile does fit, luckily.

1606 Got ticket with no fuss, tho no automated machines AFAICS despite IIRC being largest bus terminal in South America. But easy enough to hand over paper to woman at desk.

Walked up north from Tiete in quest of a Pao de Acucar supermarket of myth and legend (aka Google Maps); it doesn't seem to exist. A number of small or not so small unpretentious restaurants, striking out boldly I am in one (quite large, London bus poster on wall) for beef and chips with a 600ml Brahma. Did speak to waiter but also pointed at menu.

1642 Food not bad, came with salad (undressed  but had some admittedly not too bad beetroot in centre which I ate aroud) and rice and some sort of beans in sauce which I ate with the rice. Bill is 10 for beer and 16 for food as expected; quick web search had led me to expect a 10% service charge but there isn't one so will prob make it 30; I need to break a 50 and then I'll try to break another one at minimarket I saw on futile quest for PdA. Not quite finished beer but bill given w/o asking (whatever that means).

Beer bottle is in one of those insulated polystrene containers which you probably do get in other countries but which always make me think of Brazil.

Kudos to myself for not just holing up in hotel with snacks from supermarket, but am going back to hotel after minimarket and will try to do bit of laundry and a last minute Portguese cram on Duolingo etc.

I had formed the idea there was a time difference from Chile and even put my watch forward an hour while in customs queue but there seems not to be.

Keep saying things like "gracias", oh well. Mulling while in Uber (feeling pretty smug) that maybe it would be good to come and do a month's intensive Portuguese some time. My primary foreign language is always going to be Spanish and I wouldn't be likely to get enough practice to truly keep up Portuguese but a month could get me to a basic communication level (esp given I do have Spanish to help) and maybe that wouldn't fade too much. Just a thought, not planning on doing this on this trip.

Got change, didn't know word for " tip" but proffered BRL4 at waiter and though he seemed a little surprised he took it. Maybe didn't need to pay that, but while not *cheap* it's not too expensive. (Gut feeling is food was cheap at 16, beer was OK but not great at 10 for 600ml; it's not quite 5 to the pound, FWIW.)

Swallow of beer left, let's go.

1724 The PdA had mysteriously appeared opposite the restaurant (Nova Majestosa) so I went in there and got some peanuts (for "emergencies" , not really for today) and a couple of bottles of water. Walked back down street parallel to Cruzeiro do Sol and it felt a bit less sketchy, or maybe I've settled down a bit after something to eat. Woman from reception loitering in street with bloke (husband?), said "boa tarde" but don't think she likes me very much. They do have a black and white cat here which sleeps in the lobby (and a sign saying in Portuguese "don't feed the cat*s*" ) which looks nice but I haven't touched it.

Drink some water while it's cold then laundry and phone charging and shuffling of belongings ready for bus tomorrow etc.

I've no idea if I can pass for Brazilian if I keep my gob shut. I have read it's very racially diverse here (and a very casual observation would seem to back that up) and I have seen white people on the street who don't obviously seem to be tourists. With my baseball cap and long-sleeved T-shirt on to further obscure any relative lack of tan (tho this is down to covering up and/or factor 50, not being fresh off the boat) I think I might have a chance, it is at least not implausible. This might make me feel a tiny bit less at risk on the street etc.

BTW meat at restaurant was "bisteca"; I am not sure it was beef but FWIW. It was OK anyway.

2006 Done some laundry, struggling to dry it as there are zero hooks anywhere, but will be in a dormitory for a few days on cost grounds so be good to go in with as many clean clothes as I can manage.

The extremely loud fan does move a hell of a lot of air. The vaguely buzzing noise it makes (slightly digeridoo-ish, it seems to me now) is somehow intermittently turned by my brain into a choral-y kind of music; currently I've been getting "Nowhere Man" , probably because someone was playing it very loudly from one of other flats in Santiago as I went to throw some rubbish in the chute last night and it's got into my head. The effect is sort of pleasant but a bit weird.

Oh, when I withdrew cash at the airport the machine referred to swingeing BRL24 fee as a "convenience fee" ; more like a "we have you over a barrel" fee. I did at least withdraw a fair chunk of cash so the percentage fee is still eye-wateringly large (2.4% approx) but not as bad as it could be.

2251 Feeling bit quietly down, bit dubious about trip tomorrow. Not a big deal. Forgot to observe earlier metro runs on elevated track (enclosed in stations) along CdS, not underground.

Had shower earlier, suicide shower absolutely refused to generate any hot water. For all that it's really very warm the water was painfully cold and I didn't really shower all the "properly",  but did more or less get the job done.

2311 Bed. Feel a bit tired though not terribly so and need to be up early for bus. Half packed but due to damp laundry etc stuff is scattered everywhere. This morning in Santiago feels a lifetime ago.

Have had fan off since got out of shower and since want to charge phone overnight as read in bed will keep it off.

Santiago, Tuesday

Tue 2226 Heading towards bed. Set alarms a bit earlier this morning, absolutely terrible but there you go. Got up maybe 1030.

Called Transvip to confirm my reservation and that I could pay cash to driver; not my smoothest Spanish but I managed it so yay.

Went out with vague goal of going to Cerro Santo Lucia and getting cash from Scotiabank for taxi and contingencies. (Had toyed with Cerro San Cristobal, maybe taking funicular, but decided against it. Have done it before and will be back to do it again. Plus saw something on news other day re fire at IIRC zoo up there and wondered if funicular and maybe even path might be suspended.)

Long story shorter: it seems to have been a fluke I got free cash wd at Scotiabank other week in Rancagua. After finally finding a machine I got told it would be CLP5.5k for privilege of withdrawing 30k. Tried various other banks on both Clarity and Starling and all in 5-6k range. Not paying that if can help it.

Tried to pay (from street) again by ccard but Halifax still not updated my phone number. Tried to pay with Starling but they don't take Mastercard debit, only credit. (Maybe saying it was a credit card would have worked, but didn't want to risk shit occurring as a result when it could impact my airport trip.) Bravely went up CSL without having resolved this and though thoughts were inevitably running on the next couple of days of intense and mildly stressful travel I didn't feel too bad and it was relatively nice.

Came back via ekono, bought a litre of beer for 1k with some change (including the last of the old ones I had which won't be valid next time I return) then went back round and bought some stuff to cook tonight on ccard.

Came home, managed to pay for taxi using Barclaycard Platinum Travel and then cooked, packed (moderately "thoroughly" ; taking stuff out of bag to some extent and trying to filter out certain accumulated crap and segment stuff appropriately for airport shit to come etc), watched bit of YT and had beer. Bit of shit backing up photos on phone (I accidentally unmounted internal SD card instead of external one, and that caused some fuckery with the photo sync to Google saying "preparing" for hours - I envisioned it draining my battery despite leaving phone on charge overnight - but it appears to have recovered itself after all) but not too big a problem. Thanks to paying for taxi on ccard I *shouldn't* need any money tomorrow - I'm not sure it's expected to tip driver but I may give him a 1k note (not a very generous percentage but since I think it's not expected to give anything...) anyway. I have approx 12k in cash, if things go tits up and I need to pay through nose for regular street taxi I will just have to dash to a cash machine and pay the insane withdrawal fee.

Got a bit self-ranty during the Scotiabank-misled-me-into-thinking-free phase in street, not my produest moment but hey, keep working on being Mr Cool and maybe I'll get there in the end.

2303 Bed. Don't know how quickly will get to sleep and have an alarm for 4, which bites, but maybe I can sleep on the plane.

Santiago, Monday

Tue 0034 Need to go to bed. Feeling a bit sad/nervous in that "end of trip" way. Set alarms for 930-10ish this morning and felt absolutely shite; eventually got up maybe 11 but had been half awake in bed feeling like crap for ages.

Walked over to Plaza Brasil and Plaza Panama then up to Parque de los Reyes. All nice enough though it was very hot.

Went to ekono on way back, they still hadn't restocked the grapefruit beer but got a litre of Cristal and had it tonight. Done bit of laundry tonight too.

Popped into Lider Express opposite prev flat on way back before go to econo. Hate the way the entrance deliberately funnels everyone going in and out through a one-person-wide barrier. Anyway. Sort of need some more sunscreen; LE had lots but all in either terrorist sized bottles or alternatively they had one pricey 100ml bottle but it had a gigantic swirly plastic squirt thing on top and since liquids have to fit inside a tiny plastic bag that's not a goer. ekono were sold out of sunscreen, I guess restocking shelves is not their thing.

It's OK, I do have some and contrary to some of my emotions I will be able to make some basic purchases in Brazil despite my linguistic and security fears. In some ways going to Brazil is stretching my comfort zone; while I'm unhappy at my lack of progress with Spanish (doubtless due to laziness over years in part), I do mostly speak it in a push (subject to people being willing or compelled to repeat themselves etc) and so being in a Spanish-speaking country (especially places like Santiago and BA I have visited before) feels "easy" - I don't worry too much about things like getting public transport from the airport and I perhaps irrationally judge them to be safer than they are. It's not like I haven't done this before, e.g. Thailand in 2013 (?) - and I speak infinitely more Portuguese than I speak Thai, and notwithstanding issues with neither me nor the average Brazilian being a native Spanish speaker which will complicate things (native speakers being able to accommodate non-native errors and accents a bit better, I think, whereas an entirely non-native interaction is a bit more fraught), I have been told by several people here in Chile that a lot of Brazilians speak Spanish or the languages are similar enough that even those who don't speak Spanish can be communicated with on a basic level using Spanish. They were also generally pretty positive about the "niceness" of Brazilians.

It's fine, I'm not quite quaking at the upcoming trip but it is a bit of a stretch for me in various ways. It also feels like I've signed up for a few contiguous days of early or very early starts and contiguous travel days. Which is fine, really, and technically what I'm here for and hunkering down here in my comfy flat in Santiago is in some ways a bit of a cop out (though if I enjoy it - and I mostly do - and get to putter round the city seeing it in quiet way then it's not all bad) and it will be "good" to push myself a bit (even if most people might regard what I consider "pushing" to be near-trivial).

Oh, I got an e-mail inviting me to check in for flight this morning. This makes me worry the flight is tomorrow and I've fucked up but triple checking everything this seems not to be the case. Baggage allowance for hand bag is in fact 20kg, I'm damn sure I paid extra for a hand bag but due to their "hand bag" and "hand baggage" (poor translation but not looking up wording) and lack of any explicit statement of what I paid for I'm a bit worried I'll get stiffed but just have to hope. I went to an internet cafe (third time lucky; first two on Google Maps appeared not to exist) and printed off boarding pass (I checked in on phone here in flat) and bus voucher for Brazil. Was pleased/mildly impressed to see Sky do allow boarding using a mobile version of your boarding pass so you don't strictly have to print it, but since the cost of a few extra pages is negligible and I had to go print the Brazil bus voucher anyway I printed a couple of copies of it anyway. This way if my mobile is stolen or breaks down or the mobile data plays up or whatever I'm not fucked at the airport.

(Definitely wanted Brazil bus voucher printing before getting to Sao Paulo; I have roughly half a day there, bus is early in morning and given my fears and also need to buy water and find somewhere I can eat there the last thing I need is to be chasing round trying to find an internet cafe, and that's before allowing for the possibility of a major flight delay. Brazil paranoia feeds in slightly here but only a bit; swap Buenos Aires in for Sao Paulo and leave all the timings the same and I'd still be wanting to have the bus voucher printed before I got on the flight to BA.)

A bit tired but not v tired but since I "want" to be up earlyish tomorrow to try to make 4am-ish start Wed not totally hellish I'd better go to bed.

Santiago, Sunday

Mon 0110 Need to go to bed; I sort of need to force myself to be up early by way of prepping for needing to leave at 5am on Wed to go to airport, given I have been going to sleep 4amish and getting up middayish.

Think I have booked a transfer from here to airport Wed morning, though helpfully stiffed by Halifax Clarity security when it came to paying and thus slightly dubious if I do have a reservation or not. Have e-mailed transfer co tho their e-mail address is not on their own site so just have to hope the one I got on web works.

Did bit of research re getting from airport in Sao Paulo to hotel. Looks like UberX is best choice given I'm reluctant to try the real shoestring options when I don't speak the language and have rational or irrational fears about theft. I've signed up for Uber and downloaded the app and put my credit card details on so hope I am set. Plan B will have to be some kind of airport kiosk selling transfers and plan C a probably painfully expensive regular taxi. I suppose the shoestring free bus to airport train station then train the metro option *may* be a plan B/C/D/E, given I hope to be doing it in daylight plus it may be possible without any huge language issues.

Went for walk over to Parque Ines de Suarez this afternoon; amazed how hot it was on walk, how quiet (but not dangerous feeling) some of the streets were (some of them felt quite wealthy and/or tranquil; moderately amazing given how close to central Santiago they are). Park itself quite nice if not spectacular (the double row of tall palms was cool though, and the terracotta-looking statue and the fountain were quite nice), lots of families and couples but not too intrusive. Sat and had a mull there for maybe half an hour before walking back.

Got pizza+garlic bread offer at Milano's on way back; this time I didn't book online but just ordered at the counter. Not exactly rocket science but it's all practice etc so kudos there.

Vaguely tempted to pop out and get a beer to have at home this evening but didn't; gut feeling is will prob give ekono another try tomorrow and have a couple of beers in flat tomorrow (Mon, technically today).

Feeling a bit "waiting to leave" given Tue is last day and even Tue night is a bit weird given need to pack (stringently due to 8kg bag limit; will need to arrange things so I can maybe shove heavyish items in fleece pkts and wear it to avoid weighing, and/or take advantage of second "hand bag" allowance by putting some items in my daypack and holding that separately to split the weight up - I'm not significantly over 8kg but it's maybe touch and go and given Sky is a budget airline I expect them to be slavering for opportunities to fuck me over) and to be up 4am-ish Wed. Am a bit sorry to be leaving, tho after fucking waitress last night and some lingering suspicions I've been screwed over once or twice by other people I'm not quite so sad to be leaving Chile as I might be. I will almost certainly be back, I just don't know how soon - exactly financial and non-financial travel situation over next few years is a bit fuzzy at this point.

Have a bit of pizza left but will prob get some supplies in and cook at home tomorrow (and maybe top off with left over pizza), and maybe Tue too. I don't feel huge desire to go eat out and cooking at home is semi-healthy and I won't be able to do it once I have moved on and no longer have a whole flat. Well strictly speaking most hostels seem to offer a kitchen, and I prob already said towards end of Guatemala trip I "ought" to try cooking something in a hostel at least once just for the  "expanding comfort zone" kind of benefits. But it's not something I think I could ever do routinely.

Santiago, Saturday

Sat 2336 At Zona 4 on Pio Nono, almost opposite Calamar. I seem invisible to staff but let's see if anyone ever comes over. Left flat maybe 2215 and walked over towards corner Paris/Londres. Long story short, seemed extremely dead. Walked (mostly by chance, not consulting map but having vague idea in head) up to Plaza de Armas, lots of people around but few bars. Ended up by Monjitas metro and turned east, thinking I'd at least be heading towards here. Suddenly spotting an ice cream-ish shop in the junction of two not quite parallel roads I had a bit of memory triggered, I U-turned into the other parallel-ish road and indeed there were loads of people selling stuff from blankets in street, bovine herds of idiots milling around in street and lots of fancy restaurants. I could have sworn there were bars there at one point but maybe my memory is faulty. I walked down Lastarria but didn't see anywhere I liked, ended up at Libertador and headed over here.

I toyed with going over towards Manuel Montt but it's about 20 mins walk from Baquedano and I wasn't sure if I'd end up having walked all that distance to find only bars which would insist on me ordering food. I cook rice/veg/tuna earlier and also had a couple of hot dogs and really don't want to be forced to buy overpriced food. So I came up here, briefly detouring to a parallel street to east of PN after seeing a sign for karaoke (not that I'm really in the mood) but not going in when it turned out it was on 3rd floor. Rationally or not I'm feeling a reluctance to go "deep inside" anywhere and maybe get trapped in some ill-defined way.

Did toy with getting a bottle at offy and going home. But I guess it's better to be out. I just feel a bit "meh" and like I couldn't handle the stress of meeting anyone even if someone did strike up conversation. I dunno.

Popped out earlier to get sausages, water and hopefully some of that grapefruit beer at ekono. Having trogged all the way over there, they had no grapefruit beer, no sparkling water - the place looked like preppers had raided it, huge lack of stock. Got well over-worked up, chuntering to myself, decided not to buy sausages there and trogged back to Santa Isabel on Portugal and got some stuff there. No beer, as I had only been planning to buy that grapefruit stuff - I don't want to end up buying litres beer and then "having" to drink it because I'm leaving soon.

Starting to think unless I actually start waving my arms around none of the staff are ever going to notice me. One prob staff (tho her T-shirt is wrong colour) in tight shorts has walked right passed my table two or three times squeezing between it and road without noticing me.

Place is a bit pseudo club and loud Latiny music coming from inside but I was trying to ring changes and it's not too bad sitting out in street; I could pretty much hear this music from Calamar nearly opp anyway.

Tried to book "taxi" to airport for Brazil before popping out to supermarket but they insist on a Chilean phone no. I asked the concierge on way out to supermarket and he gave me building phone no and confirmed they can park up in front of building to pick me up, so in theory I can now book this, but I was too fed up after popping out to supermarket and being shafted by ekono's lack of stock to book - will prob do it tomorrow.

Got to admit I'm thinking about leaving Z4. Bad enough waiting for first service, how is it going to be once I want to get the bill and leave? It's 2349 now.

Not that I really felt like it but I *did* check meetup to see if anything on today, but nothing relevant. And I think the Spanglish lang exch/party thing is on Tuesday competing with the other lang exch, not on Fri/Sat as I had imagined.

I feel a bit Billy No Mates and fed up generally, I guess I came out out of a feeling I should because it's Sat (and my last weekend in Santiago this trip, probably) but not really in the mood. I think I might leave this bar, the staff are clearly too cool to notice me even when I stop fiddling with my phone and stare at the two or three of them hanging round the entrance aream

I nearly went in/sat outside Nordic Bar on the parallel street but I decided it looked a bit pricey; no clear prices shown but everyone was drinking draught half litres and the only price I could see listed CLP3600 for a presumably half litre of doubtless artisal unicorn-tear ale.

Yeah, I'm not angry or even feeling that pissed off, but I'm gonna walk if they're not serving me here. Prob go somewhere else, even if it's just Calamar, but if I go home that's fine. I came out, no point forcing things when/if I'm not in the mood.

0003 OK, at bar with no clear name at 252/254 almost directly opp Calamar. Waitress finally came over, she couldn't hear or understand me order a litre of Becker but we got there in the end. It's odd, I've been feely conspicuously foreign all evening, I guess the fact the staff struggle to see me perhaps gives the lie to this.

0006 FFS, got 11k in notes, waitress wants paying now (is it just me they don't trust?), said no change for 10 so I said I'd have to leave then and she's taken my 10 off. Supposed to be 2k for Becker, am I supposed to tip now or not? FFS. I may just leave a bit of change on table when I go or tip when/if I get a second. Unless waitress hovers on giving me change will do that. Feels super uncomfortable.

What a fucking surprise. Got 7k in change. There's a sign right on the fucking wall saying Becker is 2k, so they've just ripped me off, presumably because I'm foreign. A generous 50% "tip" there. I was tempted to argue but I hesistated a fraction of a second and she wandered off and I'd put the notes in my pocket and it's too late. Pissed off now. Just possibly that's only 2k til midnight or something but the signs say nothing like that, there's no small print. Really hate this fucking shit. If I'd had change I'd have handed her 2.5k or so and then she'd have had to explain/lie outright if she wanted to overcharge me. Not that I expected to be ripped off like this.

I think the lesson to learn here is, especially if the staff act like you're a fuckwit foreign idiot when you speak to them, to *ask the price*. Even if it's written on the wall in letters 15cm high already. Then you can argue and at least make them lie outright. And secondary lesson is to avoid putting youself in a situation where you hand over a large note without having a concrete price to argue confidently if the change is wrong. To be fair to myself, it's noisy as hell and it would have been hard to attract waitress's attention after her doubtless calculated rapid departure in time for her not to have room to accuse me of pocketing/losing 1k of the change in the meantime.

Might as well drink this overpriced beer anyway.

0049 Still a bit pissed off. Mild chill in the breeze. Obviously not staying here for another, though otherwise might have done, and prob won't try to go elsewhere. Hardly a blinding night.

When I got that lomo a lo pobre in Peruvian-Japanese restaurant other day I had a nagging suspicion the price had gone up 1k compared to the menu when I got the bill. I don't want to get hyper paranoid but TBH I am thinking I should start paying more attention and politely asking when I see discrepancies like this, rather than feeling compelled to just hand over the cash. That, plus changing "big" bills only in supermarkets and the like and keeping small bills on hand, are probably the real lessons here. To be fair to myself, I expected to pay at the end of the night not per drink, and paying 4k plus tip with a 10k note would have been OK, plus I'd have had a bill in front of me to help me argue if they'd fucked change up. Waitress just came and felt my non-empty bottle and asked if I wanted another; I said no, of course (as I said, I'm not staying, plus I haven't finished this yet). There's quite a few free tables, no need to be hurrying me out (not that she necessarily was).

0107 Last swig and let's go.

0130 Home. Am thinking a) my default attitude is probably a touch on the "apologetic" side - esp abroad where I know my language skills aren't top notch, but in UK too b) I need to politely ask ASAP (no few seconds delay) if I'm not happy about something. Meh. Stuff to work on.

As an aside, if I'm the idiot tourist, I really don't have to worry about looking stupid by querying bills I don't understand - after all, I'm an idiot, right?

Santiago, Friday

Fri 1828 At Japanese-Peruvian fusion restaurant nearish to flat, was going to have pollo mongoliano with fried rice but saw lomo a lo pobre on menu and flipped to that. Struggled to find somewhere, when usually I walk past loads of places. [Intended to check name of place when left, but forgot. Think it was in Santa Isabel, a bit west of Lira.]

Got up middayish (no alarm as usual lately), left maybe 2pm to get haircut, found smallish place nearby on Google Maps and seemed unpretentious enough, 5k (+1k voluntary tip) to shave my head (no 1 all over).

Been back at flat, gouged a cut on my head by smashing it against kitchen counter while ripping up pizza box on floor. Have had worse but not great. Keeping cap on for the moment.

Plan for tonight is I think to maybe leave flat 9-930ish and wander, perhaps first up towards Paris/Londres area, see if anything catches my eye, and failing that drift up towards Pio Nono. Don't want to drink insane amount but few beers be nice. Looking for live music online not v helpful, since I don't want some wanky restaurant or the like. There *might* be a Spanglish meet up group thing on meetup.com (seen when looking for lang exchange in past) but gut feeling is I'd rather just go out and wander and find somewhere I like and if I don't speak to anyone not a problem. See what happens/how I feel later.

Think some music aid concert for Venezuela is on the TV. Saw something about this on TV back at flat this morning. I might be wrong though.

Popped into Unimarc on way back from haircut and got some fruit, water and hot dog buns - I have (a bit of) mustard and quite a few frankfurters left, but I had eaten all the buns I got the other day. May have some as a snack before going out or when I get back if feel drunkenly peckish.

1918 Home. Food OK, tho came with rice and fried plantain instead of onions. Bill 7500+10% tip, broke a 20k.

2236 At Calamar? on PN. Came straight over to PN on leaving flat at 10. Quite busy in general but may really be here a bit early. Nowhere massively appealing, is a karaoke bar on corner opposite Drink (which is just a few bars down) but it has a sign advertising bottles of spirits for £mucho and either bouncers or lots of staff by entrance and I just wasn't that tempted. Feel I used to be bolder when going out. Meh. Getting a litre of Escudo. Have this, maybe another then go home, then won't be off my face and can come out again tomorrow night. Yeah, Calamar Resto Bar.

0017 Nearly finished, will prob get one more. Reading book on phone with bit of staring off into distance at intervals. Alternate between feeling semi-pleasantly invisible and a bit awkward in case anyone talks to me. Feh.

Not wearing cap tonight. Cut on head is not too bad, it has some noticeable scabbing but it's not as bad as eg the one I inflicted on myself on bus on way to Lake Atitlan that weekend away in Guatemala. Suspect it will take at least a week or two to fully heal but it isn't huge or scary looking and I don't feel the need to cover it up. Besides, it might make me look harder and I need all the help I can get. :-) Looked at Wikitravel re Santiago nightlife earlier on a whim, I half suspect I had a hand in a couple of the entries based on previous visits. As so often on WT the security advice goes IMO almost ridiculously OTT, apparently most muggers here will just beat the shit out of you if you don't immediately give them your wallet if you don't speak Spanish. Maybe this is true but I'm a bit dubious, given Guatemala has a worse rep and people with actual experience of being mugged in Guatemala have spoken less scarily of it than the WT security advice for Santiago.

0033 Ordered another. Waiter said three thousand, I said that's OK - I *think* (speculation, he didn't say any of this, it's not that I struggled to understand) the first may have been 2.5k and it's now no longer happy hour as it's gone midnight or the like. But 3k is OK if not astounding; if I wanted (and it's not entirely unappealing, for all I am sort of enjoying the vibe) cheap beer I could be drinking 1k a litre bottles of Cristal back at that flat, I'm paying for the atmosphere.

0128 Been amusing myself by drafting a response to booking.com re ongoing Brazil fuckup. Oddly diverting though hardly conducive to soaking up the atmosphere. Gonna go for slash and trust no one will spike or steal my beer. Doesn't feel likely.

0132 Back from slash. All seems OK. Virtually no one inside; prob a combination of decent weather (it's summer/early autumn at worst here) and smoking ban. It's fairly busy on the street in general. Inside mildly cavernous and though prob deluding myself looks oddly familiar.

Just to be clear, not *sending* booking.com msg now. Don't think am pissed (had maybe 3 pints) but wouldn't be so silly. Merely drafting it and will review and send tomorrow.

While still have half this litre esp if take it slow it's tempting to think might have another. *But* at same time I prob want to come out tomorrow night and it seems a bit silly to go overboard.

0145 I'm wearing long-sleeved T-shirt; it's pleasant out, the occasional cool breeze being nice rather than chilling. I don't know if it's got colder since I first arrived and/or I've acclimatised. I think daytime temps are around 30C which may be a few degrees cooler. I have been usually sleeping with balcony door in bedroom open despite the extra noise this entails; it doesn't disturb me that much, I'm used to city background noise and it's sort of comforting. (What does piss me off is the occasional twat on a motorbike with a super-loud exhaust. Cunts.)

Have yawned once or twice. Don't feel really pissed but am faintly aware have had a few. It is tempting to get another but they *might* shut at 3 and I'm not chatting with anyone to go on to an after-hours with (of course I might get chatting around 245ish for all I know) and phone batt is low-ish (not too bad; 49%, if I hypothetically met someone now and wasn't using phone to read on, it would easily last me up to and including using map to get home at Xam) and I have yawned once or twice. I think the key thing is it's Fri; I may come out tomorrow night (perhaps coming out even later to start with) and have a go somewhere else (or just maybe Bar Liguria, fuck knows) and if I have three or more litres then fine, but if I push it tonight I'll probably feel a mixture of hangover and guilt tomorrow morning and won't come out tomorrow (strictly today) night at all. So not rushing this but will prob get bill and go after finish this second litre. If someone strikes up conversation that's different, but I think that's unlikely.

0159 Suddenly wonder if this is where I came with Cony a few weeks ago. We were at a bar on this side of road a few bars down from Drink, but I *think* it was one of the bars closer to Drink than this one. Doesn't matter, just a thought.

0203 Phone forecast (no temp sensor) says its 21C. It is *not* cold but I'm just feeling the slightest chill from the odd breeze. It's still pretty pleasant out, and obviously I've been acclimatising myself to daytime 30+C temps for a month, but thought I'd make the observation. I don't wish I had my fleece with me or anything.

0214 Nearly finished. Seriously tempted to get another but think the "don't want to be tempted not to come out Sat night" argument is persuasive. I can also walk home relatively confident I'm not looking drunk. Been noticing all nights "Gyvens Club" opposite has a projected logo which alternates red/green/blue in a cycle, and some artefact of the projection system means the logo moves slightly as the colours change. It's too strong to call it annoying, but it's not a cool effect either. It looks vaguely shoddy.

Yeah, another is tempting but there's nothing special happening, it's Fri so there's still Sat to come and why burn alcohol allowance/self-goodwill staying out late tonight for no reason? FWIW I didn't get to sleep til 4amish last night despite only the quiet beer at home, in some ways this is good as it makes my midday awakenings more "natural 8h sleep with a late start" than "WTF is wrong withg me?" and notwithstanding the odd yawn earlier am not tired. Not that hungry either but might have a hot dog back home anyway, would prob be in bed about 3-4am which would in fact be consistent with my current approx sleep cycle anyway.

Obviously I'm on holiday so Fri/Sat are not *personally* special but I have to acknowledge weekends exist for the locals and thus influence the local nightlife. I suppose students on summer break from uni may be a bit weekend-free but my gut feeling is a) they're not the only people going out at night, and are probably in general too young to be overly relevant to me b) even they still live by this week/weekend cycle (as I do) because they or people they know have week-oriented jobs.

0225 Got bill. 6k+10% suggested/mandatory tip. Not too bothered except why did guy stress 3k for second beer if first was also 3k? But whatever, not too bothered, 3k is about what I expected to pay and while not cheap it's not terrible for a litre in a bar. Not quite finished last glass but will go for slash and walk home shortly.

0249 Home; walked, as usually do lately, but haven't nec explicitly said. This flat has "good" loc but still fair trek down V Mackenna and modulo questions of safety isn't super closer than prev flat near Santa Lucia. Some - not loads, but some - ppl on street on walk home and didn't *feel* remotely dangerous. The two bars near top VMcK - La Terraza had few ppl but not many, wanky one next door which wouldn't serve me other day was shut. PN bars seemed v open as I was leaving but quite poss closing time at 3 or whatever was looming. Would be cool to stay out til closing but unlike in past am a bit more inhibited/sensible. Unless tempted to go to Bar Liguria maybe Sat night will go out eleven pmish, perhaps chance that karaoke bar (if can't get decent priced beer will leave immediately) and see what time closing is and if (just maybe) meet some ppl to go on to an after hours with.

Don't *crave* food but since was moderately restrained re drinks will treat myself to some hot dogs.

0340 Bed. It was a bit cool verging on cold - which is way too strong a statement - on walk home, no colder than "refreshing" under circumstances, but a change from the tropicalish excessive warmth when I arrived a month ago, be this acclimatisation on my part and/or genuine weather change.

Could have had a more exciting night but for all that was quietly fun/pleasant and I'm reasonably satisfied.

Santiago, Thursday

Fri 0157 Not a bad day if not super action filled. Felt bit iffy this morning, was drowsing in bed around midday when the intercom (presumably from reception, not right outside door - there's no bell AFAIK) rang. I ignored it and got up and dressed just in case but no one came up and no one has slipped a note under or anything. No idea why, probably an innocent mistake or something but did worry me a bit.

Walked over to Parque O'Higgins and did a circuit. Was very very slightly tempted to go into Fantasilandia but rides are not really my bag (I'm too scared of just about everything) and it's a pay-to-enter not pay-per-ride thing (which is probably good if you're into it) and it was a bit pricey to go in and ride on nothing and I wasn't really in the mood, just observing I did feel that v slight temptation. Park OK and quite nice little island in the lake, but parts of it are a bit blocked off. There's an aquarium there but I wasn't that interested in it.

Was planning to have a beer at that bar near Parque Almagro (sp) afterwards - hadn't taken bottle of water or backpack with me, I wasn't in dire straits or anything but thirsty enough - but it wasn't open, tho looked like it was half open (metal shutters half way up) when I got there about 4. So I decided I'd buy a beer at ekono and have it at flat tonight as I did yday. All well and good, and I also splurged on a half litre can of wheat beer+grapefruit I noticed, and a bottle of water and a bottle of coke zero. But it turns out not only (by fucking law, as already bitched about) do no supermarkets give out free plastic bags, ekono wouldn't even sell me any kind of bag - I don't know if this is the law or just them. (One other supermarket does appear to have sturdy paper bags, I haven't needed one but I suspect they are available for a price.) Heaven forbid anyone should be so ecologically irresponsible as to go to the supermarket on a whim! I always have a plastic bag in my back pocket to cater for this eco-fascism, but it was pretty worn - I struggle to replace it because plastic carrier bags are like fucking hen's teeth these days. I say carrier bags because to underline the stupidity of these rules, it seems standard for supermarkets here to require you to put your own fruit in a large plastic bag and weigh it at an automated machine (they usually just have one and there's often a queue for it too) and attach the label printed by the machine to the bag for scanning at the checkout. So if you buy, say, a few bananas and a few apples, that's already two big plastic bags you are *forced* to use - but they're no use for re-use as carrier bags because they have no handles. (At least when I go to supermarkets in UK, I think I have the fruit loose and just put each different type separately on the weighing platform built into the self-service checkout so I can put it in my bag afterwards, but not wrapped in its own plastic bag. It is just possible my memory is playing up here, because with the Guatemala trip and then mostly being at my parents' place between that trip and this trip I haven't done much UK supermarket shopping in the last four or five months. But I'm fairly sure my memory is right.)

So I'm lugging my three bottles (one glass) and can of grapefruit beer back with the ropey carrier bag in my arms to try to keep the weight off, cursing like mad at the fucking wanky rules. And - not directly related - at one junction about six (I'm not exaggerating) guys were sitting on a wall chatting and there was a (smallish; 1 metre square?, though irregularly shaped) damp looking patch of pavement with some cones scattered around. I walked across the damp looking patch to avoid crowding up on the group of guys - not needing to tiptoe between cones or push any out of the way to do so - and then I felt the damp patch sort of squish under my shoes and they all started shouting, they'd obviously just repaired the pavement. I felt a bit bad and did apologise a bit (with my unwieldy plastic bag of heavy bottles in my arms), but at the same time if the lazy fuckers had simply actually put the fucking cones to block the area off and/or been watching and shouted *before* I trod on it and/or hadn't all been sitting around chatting instead of guarding the repair it wouldn't have happened. And of course the pedestrian crossing was against me so I had to stand there (back to them at this point, and to be fair they didn't keep having a go) for what felt like minutes waiting to move off.

And the bag did essentially disintegrate a block or two from home so I was limping a few metres at a time with the serrated-cap glass bottle in one hand, the two large plastic bottles awkwardly clenched in the fingers of my other hand and the can half sticking out of the knee pocket of my combats. Serves me right for impulse buying, I should have walked five or six blocks home and come back out with my backpack.

Anyway. I cooked some tuna+rice+veg tonight, still felt bit hungry after but never mind. Had the grapefruit+wheat beer a bit later which was nice but evidently a kind of shandy thing given it's only 2.5%, and a bit later had the litre of Cristal later still. Not super healthy but not ridiculous either. Watched some stuff on Youtube and done a tiny bit of chore-ish admin.

Not sure exactly what plan is for tomorrow (well technically today); I plan to go out tomorrow night but not sure where. Maybe Pio Nono (partly cos it's Fri whereas when I got into Santiago and went out there last on 26 Jan it was a Sat and maybe it will be different), tho if do go there will prob head out about 10pm so as not to be too drunk too early, so to speak. I may also see (not overly optimistic) if Google can turn up a low key live music venue. I might also go out in that via Paris/Londres area (not sure if exactly same area but tho perhaps a touch pricier than PN I seem to recall from previous visits years back some bars/cafes with tables outside in streets round that vague area) for a few beers, tho perhaps would do that Sat.

Plan is to eat out tomorrow so I mix it up a bit eating out vs cooking at home, just possibly "topping up" any eating out with some hot dogs at late-ish in evening before going out.

Took some day and night photos from balcony tonight. Incidentally, since it confused me while looking at photos as I copied them to phone, the photos taken from high up which show Cerro San Cristobal (a few days ago) are taken from this building, but from the lift lobby window on my floor (16th local style, 15th UK style) *not* from my flat, which looks south (I think) not north.

Got e-mail re return flight this morning (nothing to do with my ongoing complaints) about it being rebooked. Of course they can't actually point out what's changed, it all looks massively formal and worrying, but having compared what they sent me with what I had, the departure has merely been pushed back ten minutes and the arrival in Zurich (where I don't have a tight connection anyway) pushed back twenty-ish, so no big deal.

A random observation I've been meaning to make for a few days - and probably not original - is that having rented maybe four or five different flats in central Santiago over the years, they all seem to be on the same pattern. Not a bad pattern, but still. They're roughly square. Subdivide that into four roughly equal squares. Two of the squares which form a half of the entire flat are an open-plan kitchen/lounge. One of the other squares (adjacent to the lounge end of the kitchen/lounge) is a bedroom, separated from the lounge by a big sliding door. And the leftover square, off the bedroom, is the bathroom. My memory is obviously going to be fuzzy but this really does seem to be some kind of standard. It works quite well, I might find these flats a bit small (but not intolerable) to live in permanently (I am slightly spoiled in this respect for the last few years), but it's a pretty decent design really. Just wanted to bash this thought out.

0241 Bed. Not showered just in case (pure speculation) it's not allowed to shower late and a neighbour complaining to concierge is what the attempted intercom call this morning was about. Will shower in morning.

Santiago, Wednesday

Thu 0122 Quietish day but not too bad overall. Bit unpleasantly very mildly nightmarish not quite waking up this morning. But not too bad. Got up 11-12ish.

Went over to Costanera Center (via Santa Isabel metro for novelty) as someone at Spanish exchange last night had suggested I might be able to get some cheap stuff I want for Brazil there. As it happens I couldn't, but I was in the Jumbo supermarket they'd suggested and on the slim chance they had some decent mustard (ie not the spirit vinegary horrible non-spicy shit which is the standard here) I went and checked they actually had tiny 100g jars of Colman's, albeit at an eye-watering CLP3899 (£4.58). I dithered but partly on remembering the "High price for mustard" scene in Three Men In A Boat I decided to splurge, so I got some sausages and hot dog buns and while I was at it a few tins of other stuff to cook with over next few days. Came home (got metro to Baquedano and walked) and gorged myself on hot dogs. I had planned to go out for something like lomo a lo pobre today but decided this was more fun and probably not really less healthy.

I then walked over to Huerfanos (another recommendation from lang exchange) and got what I wanted from a bloke selling stuff in the middle of the street for next to nothing, so a result there. On walk back via slightly different route went through area round intersection of Paris and Londres and looked quite nice, might go round there for a beer at some point (pretty sure had seen it/been there on previous visit, it was a bit familiar) but decided I wouldn't at that point. As a compromise I stopped in at a random supermarket on walk back and got a litre bottle of Cristal for CLP1000, which didn't seem a bad price.

Spent evening watching stuff on Youtube and having the beer and another hot dog or two. Not exactly super exciting but quietly pleasurable. I feel like I did something today with those two little trips out anyway.

Santiago, Tuesday

2225 At Azoteo at top end of Vicuna MacKenna; not sure if ever going to get served. Was going to go to bar next door but no free tables. Not so busy here, fear may be expensive but pro  - no, not only was beer expensive but it was compulsory to eat so left, let's see what else we can do

2255 At Bar Santiago near U Catolica - this is nowhere near home, walked down to door of building without finding another bar and though the casual joy of a quiet beer on way home has now gone, I felt compelled to come somewhere (instead of not bothering or buying a bottle at offy near home). Were some nice-ish little bars on walk home but they were quite near lang exchange and not near home so figured be good to try somewhere nearer; more full me. Quite a lot of people about even tho it's Tuesday night, maybe poss because it's still university holiday but pure speculation. Hate wanky bars that not only sell only overpriced beer but make you pay for overpriced food for the privilege of ordering it.

(Years back remember going to a bar in Sohoish to try out the garlic beer I'd seen mentioned in paper or something, but supercilious fucker at bar told me they only served it with food. So I didn't try it, I'm sure it would have been foul but I was willing to pay a few quid for a beer, but not fifteen or twenty quid for a poncy version of pub food on top.)

Few possible twats on street but don't think there's much risk of anything serious happening on walk home.

Lang exchange not bad, got to listen in on some intra-Chilean speech and understood maybe 60% which isn't too bad. Also didn't consume anything - they ask people to, but the one waiter I asked for a diet coke was evidently stressed out and told me to ask later and no one came up to take my order again (and of course I was occupied in conversation and couldn't be looking round and signalling for waiters) so fuck 'em. Wouldn't have minded a diet coke but wasn't essential.

Not done much else today, popped out to supermarket just before lang exch to get water, nuisance but still. Messaged Cony but she's on holiday then back at work on Mon so may not see her, but see what happens and not end of world if can't.

2313 Looking at Google Maps there is a slightly shorter route back than the way I came (via Baquedano) - will prob chance that, don't think it's terribly dark and lonely. I would have stopped in any other bar I'd passed but having walked most of the route when I came back from lang exch to old flat I was fairly sure this would be first place I came to, plus I knew it would be open. Not a bad place but not super atmospheric or cheap.

2332 Finished that half litre, one more then home I think. Prob have a beer tomorrow afternoon or whatever so don't want to go crazy now, even if I wanted to, which I don't.

0012 Finished that, quite a lot of people here, maybe slightly busier. May have one more...

0102 Home. Not that I had much to say but stopped reading on phone and writing this crap shortly into third beer as battery down to 6%. Walk home not threatening at all down Portugal and Marin (which I keep thinking is Milan or Millan, even tho the John Walker connection should make it easy to remember), possibly less so than the longer walk back via Libertador and V MacKenna which I took out. A few people around - not BA levels of late-night street business but still - and these slightly back streets maybe attract fewer twats/criminals as well. A lot of rough sleepers on Portugal - a bit odd, as have walked down the same route as tonight during day without seeing bedrolls etc IIRC (and I may not) but also while have seen some signs of rough sleeping not that many before tonight, whereas Portugal had lots - but because they were, like, sleeping, not remotely threatening.

Only had three "pints", feel a bit pissed, yes I said I'd only have two but public health twats aside I can't really say three "pints" is insane debauchery and I don't really feel pissed pissed, just know I've had a beer or two (or three :-) ).

For record, Bar Santiago is *not* a happening bar or a dive bar or whatever. It's (and as a UKite I may be misusing the word) a largish diner, for want of a better word. Saw a few polystrene takeaway containers being handed over. But it was quietly busy with people having a few beers or cokes or what caught their fancy, it was if anything getting slightly busier right up to when I left and I really applaud them/a system which allows people to quietly consume food and/or beer at 1am on Wednesday morning with no fucking fuss. I spied a Gorrilaz video (not their hit, I didn't recognise the video precisely) on the screens behind bar not long before I left but music volumes so low I had been thinking "what's that song and where's it coming from?" .

Santiago, Monday

Mon 1640 In small, deserted but quite nice little down-at-heel bar with reggae playing near Parque Almaro. Got up about midday but only left flat 3-4ish and decided would walk over to park and back. Sat in park for a bit, felt quite safe and had a half hour's musing, decided would stop off for a beer or coffee on way back and this place looked OK. Only 2k for a litre of Becker, made is 2300 with tip and offloaded 1300 of change (apologised but woman at bar said she liked change), tho my receipt shows 2888 for some reason.

Feeling a bit guilty (too strong a word) about doing nothing again today. But then I did come over here. I don't have to rush around like a blue-arsed fly "doing" tourism all the time. It feels like I'm wasting time but if I'm quietly enjoying myself am I really wasting time? The only thing is that I could sit around all day in my flat in London much more cheaply than in this flat in Santiago - and I'd be more "engaged" in interesting personal projects which I can't really do while travelling. So I think there is a genuine argument for needing to "get out and about" a bit - not *every* day, but "most" days. But coming out for a walk and just being here and seeing the city is fine, I think, even if it's doesn't pass the probably-dumb-but-acknowledge-it-exists "what will I tell people I did?" test. Maybe coming out for more/longer walks would be better, of course.

My musing in park was on Brazil, I think I'm going to book some travel and accommodation tonight and then I can largely forget about it until I go, and perhaps just focus on quietly enjoying my long-ish break here in Santiago.

Few photos on wall (generic, not of people who have been here and signed them), one shows Ramones outside CBGB and another shows Los Prisioneros.

Finished off the pizza at flat this morning, plan to pop into supermarket for black pepper (and coffee and water) on way back and cook spaghetti for dinner tonight.

1656 Reggae version of The Killer's "Human". Quite good actually.

1736 And now a version of Europe's " The Final Countdown". Nearly finished beer, will go home via supermarket after it, this is a restrained afternoon beer, not a session!

1756 Just left. Place was Bar Almagro, just might return at some point. Still only customer but I like the fact they were open despite no custom at this time...

2228 Booked bus ticket for Brazil. Had to go via a thirty party site as the official one for the bus company has an explicit button you can click if you're a foreigner and then insists on validating your "zip code" ; oddly enough, as a foreigner, my zip code is not Brazilian style. To simply not support foreigners would be one thing, to do a half-arsed job like this is another. I managed to pick a third party company which only added about 4-5 USD in fees, which I don't resent in the least. But at least the ticket is booked now. I could have maybe bought a ticket in person at the terminal the day before but I don't want to get stuck finding there are no available seats or ending up on a bus arriving after dark, and I'm (doubtless irrationally) edgy about about Brazil-as-Brazil (or perhaps better Sao-Paulo-as-Sao-Paul) and Brazil-as-country-I-don't-speak-the-language-of that all the above reasons plus the linguistic challenge of buying a ticket seem worth avoiding.

0103 About to go to bed. Have also booked a hotel in Sao Paulo for that one night; massively unclear exactly when my credit card will be charged so bit worried I'll end up paying twice but probably be OK. Now all I need to do is book a private transfer to Santiago airport (I already have a company in mind) and decide how to get from Guarulhos to the hotel, which I haven't researched yet - past research did imply Uber would be a good option, but I'm reluctant to rely solely on something which assumes Three's Go Roam feature will work (it *probably* will but no guarantees), though I may keep that as first option and just try to find a fallback, but will look at that another night soon.

Got pretty worked up on getting back from supermarket on way back from park/beer because there's apparently no salt in flat - I thought there was because I put a small amount on my food on Saturday, but having ripped cupboard apart twice I can only infer I actually put sugar on my food (it was a very small amount so I just might have got away with it) instead of salt, so I had to go out again just to buy salt. (And not that the amount was material, as is so often the case the price on the shelf was wrong and my carefully pre-counted change therefore wrong too.)

I think going out and having that beer made today feel a bit more like I "did" stuff, FWIW.

Oh, keep forgetting to mention - the first Sat afternoon as was sitting on couch watching Youtube (LTDB!), either because my attention changed or atmospheric haze did, I suddenly noticed the faint-with-distance-haze mountains on the horizon, which are really pretty fucking high up (in terms of degrees of altitude), which was both cool and strange. Similar thing happened to me again yesterday - I think the mountains are mostly visible but they're sufficiently faint that you can overlook them in favour of the much more intensely coloured cityscape (flat is on 16th floor local style, 15th floor UK, and has v cool views) but then eventually you do notice them half blending in with the blue of the sky.

Santiago, Sunday

Mon 0049 Not a super eventful day. Didn't set an alarm this morning and perhaps because of that felt generally OK as woke up (contradicted by the fact I woke up in one of those brief irrational slashes of panic which I somehow alleviate by jumping out of bed sharpish).

Went out for an hour and a bit walk, GPS track has route (I was just winging it really, hadn't checked any maps) but some quiet streets to south (got tiny bit worried I was in a dodgy or at least too-quiet-to-be-safe area and turned north), went round Parque Bustamante, saw (prob not for first time) impressive church in IIRC Carmen (no photo as was too close to it) and back home via a different supermarket where I bought some pop, spaghetti and kitchen and toilet rolls. Plaza San Isidro was nice enough too.

Pizza place was shut but checked on web and it was open at 5. I ordered online and went down to collect my order; maybe this is a bit of a linguistic cop-out but I wanted to take advantage of an offer (which I misinterpreted - I thought you got a family-sized mozzarella pizza with your main family-sized pizza for an extra 1k or so, but it turned out it was a family-sized garlic bread, but not exactly a problem) and didn't trust myself to negotiate this in person, and I did at least speak a tiny bit to staff as I paid and collected.

Just read and watched Youtube etc tonight, but did also do a tiny bit of research re Brazil trip, need to get final booking for that done over next day or so, if only so it's not fucking hanging over me.

No big plans for Monday; will try to go to lang exchange Tues/Weds nights though. See how I feel tomorrow, may look up some touristy activity or I might just look at map and go for a wander in some possiby promising area and see what it's like and maybe have coffee or a beer in the sun. Need to get in touch with Cony too.

Quietly enjoyable day really. Pizza was not bad, though not as spicy as I'd have liked - I copied the technique I saw in Xela and sprinkled chilli powder on it to pep it up a bit. Have about 1/3 of it left in fridge for tomorrow. But having a takeaway pizza (which to me requires the ability to reheat it in oven as I eat it) is something I can only do when I have a flat, so it's a nice little luxury.

Rancagua-Santiago

Sat 1218 On train. Woke up 1030ish still feeling drunk, FFS. Will write about last night later. Got up 1140ish, packed in a bit of a disorganised hurry but did check round and think remembered everything. Left hostel a hair after midday, left keys on table in office as no one was there (not that I tried hard to find anyone). No idea what time got back last night. Still feel drunk TBH, tho not sick. Was going to go out tonight in Santiago but probably won't now, not a problem.

Plan is and always was to go to supermarket as soon as have checked in and then cook. Just poss will feel different later re going out but I can always go out another night, eg find some nice bar with tables and have a few quiet (I hope) beers tomorrow night.

Very overcast today, quite welcome in a way. Wearing short-sleeved T-shirt and not cold, didn't put any sunscreen on as don't expect to be outside that much. I could have done, packing was a bit hurried but not an absolute wild scramble - biggest issue was feeling a bit drunk TBH.

In a nice way, this doesn't feel like an epic journey today. It's about an hour. It did occur to me I could probably have missed this train and stayed at hotel an extra half hour before I had to check out, but seemed best not to. I did cut things a bit fine getting here, what with leaving hotel just after midday with train at 1230, though I was pretty sure I'd make it (as of course I have). There are many trains, this is almost a little suburban hop - like getting the train down to Leatherhead or something.

1246 San Francisco. Quiteanicelittlechurchandthespacebarisplayingup.Willpersist.IcheckedonwebandIthink"alameda"isthestationinSantiago,buttheword"Santiago"isapparentlyneverusedinconnectionwiththetrain.It'sasifIwereatLeatherhead andthefinaldestinationwas"Waterloo"not"LondonWaterloo".

Space bar seems to be working after powering off and on (just normal, not a reboot) which is a relief but also odd, given it *did* work if I really hammered it before which suggested a mechanical problem not a software one. But still, fingers crossed it's OK now.

1419 In flat. Very nice.

Sun 0030 Didn't go out, except to supermarket shortly after arriving. Cooked and ate and just been watching stuff on Youtube (flat has a smart TV so can use bigger screen) and reading a bit.

Last night a guy next to me at the bar struck up a conversation - think his name was Luco but my memories are very fuzzy, presumably drank way too much - I was on fourth beer when met him IIRC, had planned to go after that but he bought me one without asking and presumably I bought him one back. He was 65, though youngish looking 65. I really struggled to understand him, probably the Chilean accent stuff Cony had told me about, but hey, we did have a conversation and it's all practice. Feel a bit guilty at getting drunk but WTF.

Feel a bit tired so go to bed shortly after a shower. Bit miffed there's only a tiny bit of toilet paper in flat and no kitchen roll or tea towel; will have to buy my own tomorrow. No big plans for tomorrow, will prob make myself go for a walk and I intend to get a takeaway pizza - there's a place practically next door and also one across road so hope I can get something decent.

Rancagua, Friday

Fri 1307 At El Rincon Sureño, had pretty decent lomo a lo pobre (large portion, steak was TBH a bit fatty and I kind of had to pick the lean out, which I haven't had to do for a while) complete with salad, soup, bread and a small bowl of orange jelly after. Actually struggled a bit to finish. Only downside is no sugar-free soft drinks, so I had a coffee during meal which wasn't ideal and finishing a second coffee now. Going to have a few beers today - nothing major - and was tempted to get one now but think best to go out, walk, maybe see the museum, then see if I can have a couple late afternoon round Plaza de los Heroes or similar.

Perhaps a good thing only found this place today, as I could imagine I'd be tempted to come back for another big meal another day.

Didn't sleep very well again, don't know if it's me or the hotel room or the bed or what. Not *terrible* but woke up in a horrible kind of half-awake half-asleep uncomfortable (not warm and cosy) mental state.

1328 Jesus wept. Bill is 9k plus. Menu said lomo a lo pobre was 6k, are two coffees really 1500? Not actually *seen* this bill so no idea if it includes tip or one of those weaselly "table" charges. OK, I asked and it did include the tip. Maybe that's OK then; I expect coffees to be 1k if remember menu, that would have been 8k. This is still a fucking big tip/hidden table charge - maybe 15% - but whatever. Probably OK but would have been happier if I'd actually laid eyes on the bill. Feh.

1745 Been back at hotel maybe an hour. I went to the museo regional - in two old houses either side of street - free and especially the larger of the two quite enjoyable, certainly made walking round Plaza de los Heroes afterwards seem a bit different. The mix of exhibits re "politics" (ie Chilean independence and the battle of Rancagua) and "home" (the sample old living rooms, kitchen etc) and also the "this is a nice house but I would probably prefer to live where I do instead" almost perfectly calculated to make me reflect on my own style of life and what I should do to improve and preserve it and my reluctant interactions with government/politics.

I was going to go for a couple of beers and then maybe top that off with a coffee afterwards but I couldn't find any bars/cafes-with-beer which had tables outside, so I thought I'd come back via supermarket (bought two 1.6l water, no soft drinks today) and quench my thirst (throat was feeling v dry) *before* drinking any beer (and this also gives me water for tonight/tomorrow) and I've also had a shave and shower and a quick poke on Google Maps (given wandering hasn't turned anything super promising up) and I will head out for a few - I don't intend to be out late - in 30 mins or so (by which point sun should be low enough that I won't need to reapply sunscreen). I don't think I'll be able to sit outside but it's OK, a few pints and then back home to pack and doubtless watch some more crap on Youtube etc.

1904 FFS. Daky (Danky?) Bar. Bit rough feeling, I normally like this sort of thing, prob on edge. Went into Bahia Swing (24h), went right in and then bottled it and walked out - very metal/bikery atmosphere, and I also started to wonder if it was a gay bar (prob not) and decided to leave. I'm *not* out late tonight so don't really want to go somewhere too "party" ish. Am sitting at bar here, there's a rowdy table of lads behind me and a prob drunk chap just come sit next to me. Meh. I probably have wrong attitude. Half wish had persisted at Bahia Swing, but WTF. I just came out for a few quiet beers, not a night out.

1928 Feeling better, no doubt in part the sweet brown liquor. FFS I was worried I'd only find pretentious overpriced bars, both these two were in some way ideal. I guess maybe it's cos I am not out for a session, just a few beers. Meh. Could have some fun in either of these places I suspect with right attitude.

1943 Getting second 500ml schopp. Feeling better, still, sometimes I am anxious to meet people, tonight I'm scared someone will talk to me. No pleasing some people. 1600 a beer, not sure if supposed to run a tab or tip but paying as I go and will leave 10%+ when leave. One other guy sitting at bar, he's probably older than me and looks non-threatening, I'm feeling irrationally edgy. Maybe - just maybe - because don't want to end up tempted to stay out late or drink too much. Prob OK to get back into hostel but not sure, have heard mild drunk idiotry in street outside which makes me reluctant to get home late and I need to pack and get up to check out and get train tomorrow.

2011 Feel a bit drunk,  but also reasonably comfortable. Mobile data continues to be as absoltely useless as it has for a few days now - a virtual trickle of bytes, hardly anything works. I don't need it now, but this doesn't inspire confidence if I do need it. It worked so well maybe a week ago. And no, I haven't exceeded my allowance.

2019 Reminded by ad on TV here in bar that the shops in Chile are chocka with "back to school" ads.

2033 Forgot to say earlier - in museum 95% of text was in Spanish and I read quite a lot of it. The two forces in war of independence were "patriotas" and "realistas" and I (perhaps echoes of Brexit debate) misinterpreted latter word as "realists" for a long time and found it curious the "debate" back then had been such as to attribute the Spanish king's supporters as realists. Finally the penny dropped and I realised this word means "royalists" and is a false friend.

Coquimbo-Universidad Catolica on TV. Obviously not a football fan but strangely diverting. Stopped reading on my phone and started staring at TV as thoughts wander maybe 20 mins ago - as soon as TV and sound playing over speakers started to match up and staring at TV wasn't merely disconcerting as fuck.

2045 Third. Evidently the jukebox overrides the TV as we now have disconnect again. Odd during a football match. But someone just put Depeche Mode "Enjoy The Silence" on, which I quite like.

Quite a few grow shops in town. Maybe other towns too, tho not too sure now. Not sure what legal status of marijuana is here. Couple were smoking some on PdCG yesterday anyway, caught very strong smell.

Rancagua, Thursday

Thu 1257 At Restaurant Laura, getting pollo horno with chips and soup. Been to station, got mildly confused but think coped OK paid 3800 of which 1300 was for a plastic card; I am guessing the "suburbany" service is Oyster/Bip like. Train is 1230, poss can use any train but not sure and will go for that one as it's what I was told when being issued with card.

1336 Not bad, tho super hot in there. 4500+500 tip. Address 387 Rubio.

1429 Boiling hot, feel very tired. Stopped at Cafe Mestres for americano; wandered past a few small plazas (seen on map), nice enough but not had any tables outside so wasn't too tempted to loiter. No tables outside here but this is just on some street so not a big deal. 1300, will make it 1500 with tip. No one here except me and guy serving. Address 253 Cuevas.

Got an ice cream at small shop shortly after leaving RL; nice enough but 1390 nice, and I pissed off woman in shop by opening freezer instead of asking - it had a lock on, but such an ineffective one when I experimentally tried to open it with a normal amount of force it just opened.

Fri 0050 Went to Plaza Charles de Gaulle; sat in moderate shade looking at fountain and listening to half decent busker playing saxophone off to one side. Couldn't get full on meditative but not bad. Tipped busker, went back to hotel via supermarket, guzzled water/coke light, did some laundry and probably sorted out the fuckery with Brazil accommodation.

Oh, while sitting in PCdG, a chap was blowing up some big foil valentine's balloons. One escaped in the breeze so I picked it up and took it back to him, like the thoroughly decent chap I am.

Not exactly tired but not not tired. Feels quite warm tonight, even with window open, will try leaving it open. Some sort of flying ant in bathroom sink when went to clean teeth, I fished it out on some bog roll and stuck it on top of bog to dry off then noticed it had managed to lose two wings elsewhere on the sink before I saw it (they were nowhere near where I fished it out). Isn't nature kind and wonderful?

0055 Just about to go to bed, the flying ant thing has disappeared off the bog roll on top of bog but it's left two wings behind nearby. And I just noticed it actually lost four wings on the sink, not two. Unless there are multiple flying ants; there does look like another slightly similar thing in the sink. Fuck knows. Obviously on some level it doesn't really matter, plus I had chicken today and am already anticipating a probable lomo a lo pobre tomorrow, but it just seems a bit grim for this insect to be accidentally ripping its own wings off as it struggles to break the surface tension caused by tiny bits of moisture round the sink.

Rancagua, Wednesday

Wed 1434 Back at hotel briefly. The fucking cunts have come in and "tidied" the stuff I left on one of the beds, including helpfully throwing away a couple of bottles with some water in. Why can't they just fucking leave stuff alone?

1510 Just went out and tried withdrawing at Scotiabank (on Starling debit card) next to hotel - was going to try a few banks to find lowest fee. Didn't say anything about fee so I withdrew money without expecting to, but apparently there is no fee. This is good but also a shame - I wd 130k and if I'd known I could get no-fee cash at their machines I would have withdrawn much less, since there'd be no harm in taking a small chunk whenever I needed. Have come back to hotel (annoying as have to be buzzed in and out at garden gate each time) to stash the bulk of the cash, and also to stash my Clarity card - I now need/want to be spending cash all the time since 130k was a rough guess and may be a touch more than I need, and since it was fee-free spending that is as cheap as spending on Clarity, and I don't want to be stuck with much cash when I leave country, and not carrying Clarity around reduces chances of losing it/having to stolen.

1606 At Cafe Literario Al Lado Del Museo. "Whiter Shade Of Pale" playing. Was going to get an empanad but they're 2200 and more to the point they're all really freaking weird sounding and I'm not paying 2200 for something which is probably chock full of mayonnaise and avocado, so just getting a pricey-ish americano at 1500. Quite a nice little pedestrian street. Over-pushy initial waiter established I speak English, then the second over-pushy waiter who hovered as I was studying the menu couldn't understand me order a sugar-free coke in English or Spanish, so I flicked back to ordering coffee. I guess 1500 isn't insane (tho still a bit London price) when I paid 1300 yday, tho I will have to tip on top of that 1500.

Lips seem to be peeling; I don't remember biting at them. Maybe I'm a bit dehydrated, they don't feel great, maybe they're a bit sunburned.

Not a fucking clue what language I am supposed to be talking to the fucking staff any more.

This place has a boutiquey feel which my wallet doesn't like, but it's pleasant enough putting that aside.

1637 Yay, Dropbox threw me out of the text editor and created a conflicted copy of the file and now I can't access either. I suspect ropy mobile internet is partly responsible but there's no fucking excuse for it to create conflicts when I'm the only one editing on a single device.

Phone batt only 37% - I guess creating conflicted copies and failing to access mobile data burns a lot of battery. Coffee slipped down v easily, no connosieur but it wasn't bad. May get a second, given I'm gonna feel awkward tipping 10% exactly on 1500. Will go home via supermarket and get some cold water/soft drinks - drinking way more soft drink than is prob good for me, but whatever.

Place is in Paseo Estado.

After leaving hotel walked round slightly seedy but cheap restaurants markety area and past train station, then took a quick look at Plaza Simon Bolivar (pleasant enough but nothing special; v residential) and wandered by chance up this pedestrianised street and thought this might be a nice place to sit. Which it is, though I'm just not that relaxed what with the language issues and Dropbox/mobile interne pissing me off and the slightly overpriced coffee and the lowish phone battery.

1708 Well that was a bit awkward. Two Chileans at next table were chatting with waiter and they invited me over and we were speaking a bit in English. They offered to take me off on a city tour but I had to decline, they were politely forceful about it - they were on holiday, nothing to do, not an imposition - so I had to say I didn't feel comfortable going off with two guys I had just met. They didn't act offended and I think it's OK but I really don't know if I did the right thing. Maybe I should have gone, maybe it would have been a cool experience and we'd have had a few beers or something but I don't know, I just didn't jump that way this time I guess. Going to end up second-guessing myself on this no doubt. Fact they seemed to be friendly with waiter would probably argue for them being genuine but he could be in on any scam (mugging, demanding money for the tour, whatever). Feh. It's done now.

Got a second coffee.

1732 Finished coffee. Still feel mildly jittery. "Good Travel" right next door has a blackboard out advertising an all-in trip to see solar eclipse in La Serena 29th June for CLP329000. Doubt I'll be coming back in June for that but just learning about this eclipse is oddly tempting somehow.

Will get bill when waiter appears, wonder if he's pissed off with me for dissing his friends or foiling their nefarious plans. I had seen him/them sort of nodding their heads to indicate me just before they spoke to me, this could of course have been super innocent but it felt a bit rude (not really malicious), like I was being pointed out as some kind of exhibit, and I'm perhaps inclined to retrospectively assign some sinister implications to this. Whatever.

2333 Went home via supermarket, treated myself to 138g of "Chubi" chocolate since I never got that empanada, also splurged on a couple of disposable razors. Got bottle of water and bottle of Sprite zero; again I still have the sweetener taste from the SZ in my mouth now despite finishing it hours ago and drinking lots of water.

Some arseholery from Brazil accommodation and the hotel wifi here being super unreliable again caused irritation, to say the least, but I'm sorting it (though it isn't sorted yet). Have also booked an apartment in Santiago for 11 nights from Sat onwards; it's a hair under £26 a night which is tolerable, looks a good location, nice views from balcony. I'm sure I can enjoy myself in Santiago no problem. This is airbnb; I had a quick look on booking.com but don't *think* there was anything decent on there. The apartment I stayed in a couple of weeks ago didn't come up on the listings so didn't have to wonder about staying there again - it was nice but being on (UK numbering) first floor was a bit crappy, what with no view from balcony and noise from swimming pool plus feeling I had to keep blinds down all the time to stop people seeing in from the swimming pool etc. Location of this flat is perhaps slightly better, though IMO location of last one was fine - and I suspect Cony will say this one is in a bad area too. :-)

Will go to station and book a ticket to Santiago tomorrow. Not sure what else will do but I can always just wander or have coffee (somewhere different from today) or go to the museum near today's coffee place.

This morning - left hotel about 11 which was bit disappointing but not too bad by my standards. Walked down to bridge at south end of Avenida Cachapoal and despite a certain trepidation (path was very narrow and in parts no barrier between me and the trucks thundering just past my ear) I crossed to the south side of the bridge. Well, damn near, I may not have actually got right off the bridge at the south end. The feeling I could get pancaked by a truck, a lingering (though that far unactualised) fear of an incident with a loose dog and the fact that the hills over there just looked kind of barren and vaguely deserty and a thought that if I did steel myself to push on and make it to the top of one I'd just be feeling super fucking vulnerable and alone and wouldn't be getting any amazing views all combined to make me turn round and head back into town. I got over an hour's walk out of it and it was sort of cool to be walking across the bridge and seeing the view from it etc so don't really regret doing it or not going further.

I think walking through the Rotherhithe tunnel was a bit scarier than that bridge, but OTOH I'd had a few beers when I did the Rotherhithe tunnel and although the pavement in there is very narrow indeed, I suspect half the trucks going over the bridge today wouldn't fit in the RT so they had an extra level of imposingness. (Though to be fair I don't think most of the trucks today were full on articulated jobs, just pretty chunky rigid all-in-one jobs. But my memory could well be dodgy on this level of detail.)

After than went and had pollo mongoliano at Jin Xing on Millán, which wasn't overpriced and pretty decent (though I'd have liked more rice), followed by a coffee there before returning to hotel as already rambled about.

Also did some overdue airbnb reviews for last few places stayed (yes, still need to write about fuckup) and had a shower (which was lukewarm at best, at 9pm-ish - first place in Chile IIRC which hasn't had really hot water all the time).

Oh, also noticed this morning the waterproof lining in one of my shoes has worn through in two places. I didn't expect them to last forever and they were cheap and (after sticking the insoles in with double-sided tape not long into the Guatemala trip) have been pretty comfortable etc, but it's a shame they've only lasted four months or so. Well, obviously, I can and am still wearing them, but they're no longer as suitable were I to actually go hiking somewhere the waterproofness would have been useful/important.

0101 Bed.