Rancagua, Friday

Fri 1307 At El Rincon Sureño, had pretty decent lomo a lo pobre (large portion, steak was TBH a bit fatty and I kind of had to pick the lean out, which I haven't had to do for a while) complete with salad, soup, bread and a small bowl of orange jelly after. Actually struggled a bit to finish. Only downside is no sugar-free soft drinks, so I had a coffee during meal which wasn't ideal and finishing a second coffee now. Going to have a few beers today - nothing major - and was tempted to get one now but think best to go out, walk, maybe see the museum, then see if I can have a couple late afternoon round Plaza de los Heroes or similar.

Perhaps a good thing only found this place today, as I could imagine I'd be tempted to come back for another big meal another day.

Didn't sleep very well again, don't know if it's me or the hotel room or the bed or what. Not *terrible* but woke up in a horrible kind of half-awake half-asleep uncomfortable (not warm and cosy) mental state.

1328 Jesus wept. Bill is 9k plus. Menu said lomo a lo pobre was 6k, are two coffees really 1500? Not actually *seen* this bill so no idea if it includes tip or one of those weaselly "table" charges. OK, I asked and it did include the tip. Maybe that's OK then; I expect coffees to be 1k if remember menu, that would have been 8k. This is still a fucking big tip/hidden table charge - maybe 15% - but whatever. Probably OK but would have been happier if I'd actually laid eyes on the bill. Feh.

1745 Been back at hotel maybe an hour. I went to the museo regional - in two old houses either side of street - free and especially the larger of the two quite enjoyable, certainly made walking round Plaza de los Heroes afterwards seem a bit different. The mix of exhibits re "politics" (ie Chilean independence and the battle of Rancagua) and "home" (the sample old living rooms, kitchen etc) and also the "this is a nice house but I would probably prefer to live where I do instead" almost perfectly calculated to make me reflect on my own style of life and what I should do to improve and preserve it and my reluctant interactions with government/politics.

I was going to go for a couple of beers and then maybe top that off with a coffee afterwards but I couldn't find any bars/cafes-with-beer which had tables outside, so I thought I'd come back via supermarket (bought two 1.6l water, no soft drinks today) and quench my thirst (throat was feeling v dry) *before* drinking any beer (and this also gives me water for tonight/tomorrow) and I've also had a shave and shower and a quick poke on Google Maps (given wandering hasn't turned anything super promising up) and I will head out for a few - I don't intend to be out late - in 30 mins or so (by which point sun should be low enough that I won't need to reapply sunscreen). I don't think I'll be able to sit outside but it's OK, a few pints and then back home to pack and doubtless watch some more crap on Youtube etc.

1904 FFS. Daky (Danky?) Bar. Bit rough feeling, I normally like this sort of thing, prob on edge. Went into Bahia Swing (24h), went right in and then bottled it and walked out - very metal/bikery atmosphere, and I also started to wonder if it was a gay bar (prob not) and decided to leave. I'm *not* out late tonight so don't really want to go somewhere too "party" ish. Am sitting at bar here, there's a rowdy table of lads behind me and a prob drunk chap just come sit next to me. Meh. I probably have wrong attitude. Half wish had persisted at Bahia Swing, but WTF. I just came out for a few quiet beers, not a night out.

1928 Feeling better, no doubt in part the sweet brown liquor. FFS I was worried I'd only find pretentious overpriced bars, both these two were in some way ideal. I guess maybe it's cos I am not out for a session, just a few beers. Meh. Could have some fun in either of these places I suspect with right attitude.

1943 Getting second 500ml schopp. Feeling better, still, sometimes I am anxious to meet people, tonight I'm scared someone will talk to me. No pleasing some people. 1600 a beer, not sure if supposed to run a tab or tip but paying as I go and will leave 10%+ when leave. One other guy sitting at bar, he's probably older than me and looks non-threatening, I'm feeling irrationally edgy. Maybe - just maybe - because don't want to end up tempted to stay out late or drink too much. Prob OK to get back into hostel but not sure, have heard mild drunk idiotry in street outside which makes me reluctant to get home late and I need to pack and get up to check out and get train tomorrow.

2011 Feel a bit drunk,  but also reasonably comfortable. Mobile data continues to be as absoltely useless as it has for a few days now - a virtual trickle of bytes, hardly anything works. I don't need it now, but this doesn't inspire confidence if I do need it. It worked so well maybe a week ago. And no, I haven't exceeded my allowance.

2019 Reminded by ad on TV here in bar that the shops in Chile are chocka with "back to school" ads.

2033 Forgot to say earlier - in museum 95% of text was in Spanish and I read quite a lot of it. The two forces in war of independence were "patriotas" and "realistas" and I (perhaps echoes of Brexit debate) misinterpreted latter word as "realists" for a long time and found it curious the "debate" back then had been such as to attribute the Spanish king's supporters as realists. Finally the penny dropped and I realised this word means "royalists" and is a false friend.

Coquimbo-Universidad Catolica on TV. Obviously not a football fan but strangely diverting. Stopped reading on my phone and started staring at TV as thoughts wander maybe 20 mins ago - as soon as TV and sound playing over speakers started to match up and staring at TV wasn't merely disconcerting as fuck.

2045 Third. Evidently the jukebox overrides the TV as we now have disconnect again. Odd during a football match. But someone just put Depeche Mode "Enjoy The Silence" on, which I quite like.

Quite a few grow shops in town. Maybe other towns too, tho not too sure now. Not sure what legal status of marijuana is here. Couple were smoking some on PdCG yesterday anyway, caught very strong smell.