Random notes back in London

Wed 1709 Not unpacking but hunting for something else in my A4 pouch and I found the folded-up 50k note I thought I'd lost while doing laundry in Barranquilla. A nice surprise.

2327 Been updating my records and checking credit card statements. Cabify/EasyTaxi seem to occasionally split a single journey up into multiple credit card transactions. As far as I can tell these do come out to the right total amount but it's unnecessarily confusing.

Thu 1928 I see from FCO site that the Colombian president has annouced airports will close to international traffic at 00:00 on Monday 23rd March.

Sun 1845 Looking on expedia site to get an invoice for my travel insurance claim, I couldn't help laughing out loud at a "Rooms are filling up quick!" box at the bottom of the page for my Bogota-London flight. I rather doubt there's a surge in demand for London hotel rooms right now...

Medellín-London

Mon 0726 At gate at airport in Medellin. All OK so far, "taxi" was unmarked black car but I checked and it was 80k and while I wish I'd had a chance to snap the reg plate it was fine.

There was a small kiosk selling misc stuff with a printing service sign, so I asked and as it was only 2k I e-mailed my Bogota-London boarding pass to their address and after some technical glitches got it printed, so that's one less thing to worry about. Woman at kiosk asked if I *could* go home as president had banned entry and exit. Reassuring! However, there are a feew international flights from here and they were not showing as cancelled earlier. Also some interviews (driver seemed to have TV built into car) I heard in taxi about foreigners leaving. The TV news said *entry* of foreigners was being banned for 14 days but nothing about exit. All I can do is hope, even if my flight is cancelled I am probably better off in Bogota for a day or two as that's the only place with direct flights to London (Medellin has direct flights to Madrid but AIUI nowhere else in Europe), and if it turns out I *am* stranded here I can always make my way back to Medellin once that becomes clear.

Suddenly feeling a bit headachey but generally not feeling too bad, throat slightly sore but not too bad, hardly coughing. Guzzled water and had some fruit biscuit things landside before coming through security.

I used self-service check in kiosk here and it printed me a boarding pass, so fingers crossed there are no longer any e-ticket worries.

Worth noting that while I'm a bit worried about not being allowed on flight, a) I don't feel too stressed b) there isn't an atmosphere of panic or fear here in the domestic terminal, despite what paying too much attention to news might lead you to believe. I won't be too surprised if there's a mild sense of urgency and panic at the international terminal in Bogota, but it will probably be relatively calm there too if I had to guess.

0826 On plane (A321). Couldn't hear boarding announcements properly (not clear enough to even get to point of language problems) but after a minor false start I got in queue and got on OK. Bit headachey but prob just stress. Hardly been coughing today but feel super paranoid about doing it on flight. Chap next to me wiped round his seat with a wipe. I have aisle seat as picked at checkin. Quite a few people wearing masks but not loads. Have taken a paracetamol jic.

1021 At Bogota airport. All OK so far. Asked at information, they couldn't tell me if my flight was going to fly but AIUI there are no government-imposed restrictions, it is just an operational question for the airline. I see there are some flights (with tiny delays) inbound from Madrid and Amsterdam so that looks fairly promising.

Feeling better than I did before as far as health goes.

1039 A woman from the airline just came over as I was in ticket purchase queue (since it seemed most Avianca-ish place to ask, except check in desks) and she is checking the flight status for me, though *probably* she will just be looking at the same information as on that website.

OK, the flight is fine now. I asked about govt restrictions and she also asked me some stuff about nationality and when I arrived in Colombia and apparently I am fine but at midnight there will be a ban on leaving, so this is absolutely the last possible flight. I may have misunderstood - since I had spoken to her in Spanish she continued in it but she did briefly switch to English and correct herself and switched back to Spanish and I went with it. But I think I understood perfectly, and in any case she definitely said it was OK at the moment.

1319 Having extragrande Americano at Juan Valdez (6.4k). Had tinto (1.9k; used most of my loose change for that) earlier at Typykos, which looks cheap and good and may eat there in a bit but had packet of nuts/corn/etc earlier so not that hungry yet. Toyed with getting a beer but cheapest I can find is 9.7k (by the time you have a time) for a smallish (*maybe* 330ml) can of Andina and that feels a bit OTT.

Going to be stuck with a big wodge of pesos but can't be helped. Just have to hope there isn't too much inflation over next year. It would be mildly sickening to have the pound massively higher against the peso by the time I come back, though really the benefits would outweigh the loss on the (rough estimate) 250ish quids' worth I have. I am of course spending cash exclusively now.

Trying to treat long time at airport as a minor tourist attraction, walking round a bit (partly for exercise), snapping the odd photo, allowing myself to mildly over-indulge in purchases despite the fact it's fairly pricey.

For example, I did sort of want to try Juan Valdez coffee having heard a bit about it, so doing that here. It's OK but I'm not enough of a connosieur to really say if it's good or not (I did get the 400-peso extra single origin coffee without being asked).

Distinct lack of free phone charging at least landside. Maybe airside there will be something. One cafe has sockets but don't know if will go there or not, depends how keen I am to top up. Been charging Priv a bit in pocket from powerbank as I walk round, and would prob charge powerbank not phone in cafe.

Feel a bit sad there's so much I haven't done, but as I said yday I can and will return, I have "budget" left over as a result of this short trip (tho am out of pocket £100 for the excess on this flight - touch wood insurance will pay out no problem - and a debatable amount due to no longer amortising the flight cost over such a long time and a little bit for losses sustained holding 250ish quid of pesos). Of course health situation and markets may have some short term impact but I will be back in relatively near future. Of course I prob wouldn't have done all sorts of cool tourist stuff because I'd prob have studied Spanish, but that's cool too and it's all about making choices etc.

1420 Spotted a public charging point and topping up powerbank now. USB outlets don't seem to work and 120V outlet v wobbly but have managed to get my adapter to hold in. Every little helps.

Got claim form e-mail through from travel insurance, some shit on there about "trying to claim from airline or travel agency first" so I don't know if I have to get in touch with Air Europa even though it would seem this has fuck all to do with them. But not a huge problem and I can deal with this once I'm home.

1503 On a random note, I had a shot (which I sipped) of Aguardiente Antioqueña (the "with sugar" version, as it happens, I think) at Onda's on Saturday night - I said to Dave at the time that way I'd at least have tried it if I had to leave sharpish.

Not tempted to try Banda Paisa (or whatever that typical regional food is) here at airport; apart from fact I'm a bit dubious about some of the items it features, seems best to try it first time somewhere "good" and I wasn't particularly desperate to try it anyway.

1517 Feeling oddly jittery, I think out of a fear someone will steal my bag while I'm distracted even though I have my leg through the strap and my ankles crossed. Also feeling rushed re getting food, even though there's hours until the flight and I'm not even hungry. I am trying to hang on here until I get the powerbank fully topped up then I'll go eat.

1537 Powerbank full, going to try to top off the phone battery for a bit from the mains before going for food.

1549 Did I already say that as far as health goes I feel pretty good? Hardly coughing at all, throat not obviously sore, no real headache. Fingers crossed, but I'd hope I am at least not going to run into any health complications with getting onto this flight.

For all the fact there is no danger here which doesn't equally exist at home - it isn't as if I'm fleeing civil war or anything - I do have this "it will be a relief when I'm on the plane and it has taken off" feeling (cf ending of Argo ;-) ). I think this is because I *have* tried to leave; if I had already been overtaken by events and simply could not even try that might be scary and/or exciting but I think it would be a little different.

Touch wood it will be OK, if things go wrong I will try to get a room at that little hotel near airport I stayed at when I came into country and hang on for a day or two waiting for things to clear up. If it's obvious I cannot get out I will probably go back to Medellin. But obviously have to play it by ear if this happens. Fingers crossed.

1602 Sod it, I'm going for food.

1653 Had food, not bad really (carne de res encebollado with beans and rice and a tiny bit of plantain and an unfortunate dollop of contaminating guacamole in middle of plate, at Typykos). Been for a brief walk (not first) outside terminal for variety/bit off fresh air. Flight is now showing on departure boards and it says on time; obviously lots could change but this is still reassuring.

1721 Don't know if this makes sense, but as thought has crossed my mind: this a bit weird, I am fleeing the country, but all I'm actually fleeing is not being able to flee.

Back topping phone and powerbank up. Might indulge in a second meal in an hour or so and will then go through security/passport control. Don't want to leave it til last moment lest there be some horrible problem but also don't want to be "trapped" airside for ages.

Been farting like a bastard all day. No really obvious reason why.

1803 Flight still showing on time.

1955 Airside, at Amazonia Cafe having an expensive (10k) large americano - but I guess I'm a captive audience now.

No real trouble with passport control or security, though my backpack was put back through scanner a second time for some reason but nothing said about it.

Am near but not at gate. Monitor in here shows flights but doesn't go far enough in future to show mine.

About 1830 got e-mail from Patrick, must admit his half-joking description of situation back in UK put the wind up me and I had to call parents (despite having talked to them regularly all day and of course discussed situation at length) for a bit of reassurance I'm not returning to some kind of zombie apocalypse.

I felt a bit better and exchanged an e-mail with Patrick and also went outside for a few minutes in fresh air before coming airside.

Feel OKish right now. There is/was a slight temptation to have a beer but *regardless* of price I want to be completely alert now. Once I'm on the flight I hope I can have a beer and ideally go to sleep fairly early.

Haven't eaten since carne encebollada, not hungry and I have nut/corn/dried fruit mix thing and half a pack of those fruit biscuit things in the unlikely event I feel ravenous before I get home *and* the airline food is totally inedible.

Obviously I am counting my chickens a little here. I'm not on the flight yet, but fingers crossed we are getting close. Just take it a step at a time. I definitely have enough food to cook *something* when I get home without going out to shops and depending how I feel and what the situation is I may order a pizza delivery if that's possible.

2009 Got to say that looking round the restaurant zone, which is pretty busy, I don't get a panic vibe. Even though I suspect virtually all of these people are foreign non-residents returning home before flights are all cancelled.

TBH I feel OKish now. As I said above, just take it a step at a time. It was really just 15-30 mins of mild panic after getting Patrick's e-mail.

I hope my boiler's OK when I get back and there are no other nasty surprises, but I *do* have a service contract, I can survive without a boiler for a couple of weeks if I must and the post has  been redirected to parents and neighbours have phone number and I have a security camera so fingers crossed shouldn't be anything too horrific waiting for me.

2013 Just done Duolingo. How dedicated am I? :-)

There was a huge moth on floor when I went out for some air before going through security. Tried to take some photos but they may not come out. It was twitching occasionally but not really moving. A cleaner waited for me to move aside and then poked at it with his brush as sweeping up, hope he didn't just kill it but I deliberately didn't watch. I moved over to the next external door for a bit more fresh air.

Just shoved a 2k tip in the tips box. I wouldn't normally tip for "go to counter to get served" service but it is late, even though it feels gougingly overpriced (to be fair it is 473ml, the extra grande at JV was IIRC 330ml-ish) I suspect staff not paid a lot and I am fleeing the country so what's 2k?

I really do feel OK - I'm not just writing this to convince myself - but I also need to remember there's no point in panicking, it just makes things worse. Need to avoid sensationalist and/or continuous news reports, as I said to Patrick, check the official advice/status once a day, "do my part" with things like social distancing (which also helps me personally, of course) and otherwise try to just get on with life. Being an introvert comes in handy here, I don't entirely relish never really leaving flat (if that is how things work out) but I can get on with some personal projects and maybe have some Spanish lessons etc. Anyway, let's got home and then take it from there.

2109 At gate (49).

2127 Kept wanting to cough and felt super paranoid about it. Been and splurged 7k on a bottle of water and taken a paracetamol and having a bit of a walk. I think this is just nerves etc, I wasn't coughing much earlier, also FWIW NHS 7 day isolation guidelines (*not* that I ever had a fever etc) say a cough alone doesn't require continued isolation. I just hope no one has a go at me on the plane.

While it's a bit garish, I have to admire the colourfulness of El Market Colombia shop here in airport. Snapped a photo of it earlier.

2200 Been wandering to see if can see anywhere selling masks but I can't. Not for my protection, for peace of mind for others. Can't be helped. TBH it's not *that* hard to not cough and I will just have to manage. If anyone *offers* me a mask I will take it. I suspect in part I am a little dehydrated, I don't want to neck all of my bottle of water now (only 600ml), hopefully some more liquids and maybe a beer on flight will help too.

2237 On plane (B787). Not coughing is not actually proving a huge challenge, did cough on walk down airbridge and guy in front looked round but once in a while is fine. Fingers crossed I'm at least vigorously towelling myself off.

Flight looks like it is probably full, hardly surprising.

Tue 0028 Feeling pretty good actually. Surprisingly decent beef for "dinner" , even undressed salad. Got a small can of Club Colombia Dorada. Watching Argo, couldn't resist when saw it was on. Also tho don't feel sleepy if I do miss end due to sleeping not such a big deal as seen it before.

Oddly we had to have blankets behind our backs (or maybe in seat pocket?) during takeoff, which was slightly uncomfortable. Much weird engine and other stuff testing noises before takeoff, but since the tests passed all good.

Hardly want to cough at all really.

In-flight entertainment system seems remarkably smooth and un-laggy. (Incidentally the short flight to Bogota this morning also had IFE, which is unusual, though I didn't bother with it given how short flight was.)

0721 Watched Moneyball (better than I expected, though as I know *nothing* about baseball it only made sense because I'd read the book, and large chunks of the book were meaningless but I sort of enjoyed it anyway), super tired towards end but forced myself to stay awake.

Drifted into fitful sleep not too long after (just lay back with eyes shut). Woke up maybe 15ish mins ago; I was half awake and feeling terribly headachey and wondering if was ill while telling myself I *always* feel shit after sleeping on planes and forcing myself to open eyes as breakfast served (not too bad scrambled eggs, sweetcorn and ham with a bread roll+butter and small fruit salad, got coffee and water) and have now eaten breakfast and drunk coffee and feeling 80-90% though still mildly headachey.

Last night was feeling hot and wondered if was fever but I don't think so, I just felt hot but didn't like to take fleece off for security and I feel good as far as temperature goes now.

About an hour to London. Bit disturbing as I woke up to remember I'm on an "emergency" flight back home and there's *some* level of crisis back home too. But right now I'm not feeling too worried. We have a 57mph tail wind so just maybe get there a bit early, who knows? I don't know if there will be delays/extra processing due to coronavirus at Heathrow but the sooner I can get onto the tube the better, ideally I'll be able to get home before rush hour.

Coughing a little (and not feeling *too* paranoid about it) but I think this is just due to waking up etc.

No time to watch a film, will put some HMHB on and that should help boost my actually relatively positive mood even further. (I'm guessing gig I'm due to go to in May is likely to be postponed or cancelled, but there you go.)

"Paul's just phoned, the war's postponed"

Fingers crossed. :-)

Tue 1442 On tube, pretty quiet, FWIW I am prob 2m from nearest person so far. No hassles at Heathrow, hardly anyone at immigration and automatic passport gate worked (I took my glasses off this time, remembering problem last time) and no one stopped me in nothing to declare lane at customs. Journey feels interminable, shame Crossrail has massively overrun but hey, it's only taxpayers' money, who cares? I shouldn't bitch, really things have been going pretty swimmingly.

We landed at 1340, but obviously it was probably 5-10 mins later when we got off plane.

1458 Earl's Court. Getting slightly busier. No face masks yet, though I think NHS advice is against them for general use and maybe that's different than in Colombia.

1544 Home, been back about 5 mins, maybe a tad longer. All seems OK so far.

1916 Checked FCO website, Colombia's land and sea borders are now closed but airports are still open (with irrelevant-to-me restrictions on arriving by air). So I wasn't in fact quite as close to the wire as I supposed - I could have sworn that staff woman at airport told me otherwise, but maybe I got confused or maybe she was talking about land/sea boders (but why would she?) or maybe she didn't realise airports were a bit different or maybe the rules got changed last minute. Avianca's website shows AV120 flight still scheduled for today anyway (and it shows my flight as arrived, of course).

Wed 0051 Had WA from German woman (Sabine) met at Onda's a week or so ago. She is stuck in Medellin! She has a job to go back to (she was on a 3-ish week vacation) so in a much worse situation than I would have been. I have been poking on expedia at flights just on the stray chance she could e.g. fly back via London and hasn't considered this, but it looks like the Avianca direct flight I took is now clocking in at £3295! This isn't exactly to say I did well getting out when I did - I could probably have booked one of these later flights (taking a chance on airports closing) for £1.3k-ish on Sunday night, given I could do so for the Monday flight when booking on Sunday night - but still, these are scary prices. (The first "cheap" Avianca direct flight is Sunday, at £1383.)

0320 Let's post this before I lose it in a freak accident. I can always make further posts with "what could have been" comments on situation in Colombia/UK-entry re coronavirus, and in due course I'll do a kind of trip post-mortem too.

Medellín, Saturday-Sunday

Sat 1030 Still in bed (sitting up). Don't feel great, I sort of finally looked at the time maybe 10 mins ago, I don't feel terrible or anything. Throat/eyes feel a little raw, but colds nearly always seem to feel worse for me when I've been lying down for a while. I still think my cold is on the mend, it wouldn't surprise me if I hardly notice it today once I've been up and about a bit.

Had check of FCO travel advice for Colombia, no obvious change. Found this on gov.uk page (https://www.gov.uk/guidance/travel-advice-novel-coronavirus):

"If travel advice changes while you are abroad

If we change FCO travel advice, we usually advise you to follow the advice of local authorities. Your safety and security is the responsibility of the local authority where you are.

If you are abroad when our travel advice changes, contact your airline or travel company, and your insurance provider as soon as you are able.

You should also keep checking our travel advice. If we advise people to leave a country we will say so. We only organise assisted departure in exceptional circumstances."

Last paragraph is most relevant. They are not advising people to leave the country, nor has the travel advice changed in a way which seems relevant to me already in the country for more than 14 days (otherwise, having transited Spain, I would have had to self-isolate until I'd been in country 14 days without symptoms). So right now I don't see that I'm supposed to leave.

Really not sure what (from a pure touristy POV) going to do today. I could maybe go over to MCDM; it might be a bit depressing but probably, it is something I want to do. I might well go over on Metro as I shouldn't be on it too long and I'd hope it wouldn't be too busy at weekend (though IME it has not been exactly quiet).

In some ways given been out every night during week I'd be quite happy not going out over weekend, but I do sort of feel it would be reassuring to *see* other foreigners are still here (talking to them being less essential). CS has a comuna 13 thing this afternoon, I do want to go but had intended to take a "proper" tour, OTOH this might be interesting *but* as of now there are no attendees showing. Onda's also has a "party" at 8pm, I'm not sure that is exactly up my street but if I went earlyish it might not be too BNMish and if I just pissed off quietly at 9pm or 10pm after failing to talk to anyone it wouldn't be the end of the world. Comuna 13 thing is at 2 so maybe it's too early for people to have signed up and I will keep an eye on it, though I'm not inclined to sit around at home waiting to see if it gets busier and if I decide to do something else it can just fuck off.

Meetup has Onda's event at 7pm FWIW. There's also Dancefree as a LE (which fits with what those guys told me Thu after school LE, but makes invitation to go with them slightly less flattering) but not my scene, and a LE somewhere not too nearby at 1730. Looking at map, it's in Poblado - obviously I could get a taxi, but I'm not super keen.

1111 Had a poke on MG. They have an article on CV but it's not saying much directly relevant about whether you should leave or not if you don't live here. Anyway, scanning their "top 35 things" list and ignoring (for today; I will have to see how things develop re local travel) the outside Medellin things, since MCDM is on there and it feels like a low-ish stress thing to do I think I'll pop over there on Metro and see how it goes.

Sun 0342 Just got home. Odd but interesting evening, and indeed day. Will write up later, just wanted to get time down.

It's odd, it almost feels like the world isn't going to end and we're not just in the grip of panic while something bad but not civilisation-shattering happens. I must be drunk, obviously we are actually teetering on the bring of the world ending and to suggest for a second things are serious but not disastrous would be ridiculously naive.

Sun 2140 Right, I need to write up last night but want to get more recent emotions etc down first. Also really without betraying confidences last night comes down to "went to Ondas for Sat night then via Metro about 730pm, v cool views from elevated Metro stn, hardly anyone there - a couple of pairs round the largish terrace at times - spent most of night talking with owner Dave who gave me some good advice re body lagnuage/confidence in street, later on joined by Aidan Ring - a fire performer - for chat and when Dave closed up we all walked over to 70 and had a burger at a street cart then a beer - Aidan paid - at some bar" .

So I felt a bit - not terribly - rough this morning, alarm at 11, snoozed every 10 mins til gone 12. Checked FCO advice and (have screenshot) they strong advised non-resident Brits to consider leaving. Phoned parents, went out for lunch at Carrazal, came back. Spent over an hour in queue for travel insurance helpline. When got to speak to someone, was told they *would* pay for a return flight (up to, as it turns out, £2k on my policy less £100 excess) but if I stayed I would *probably* be covered but any claim would be referred to underwriters. So despite - whole day - feeling sort of (hard to exactly describe feeling) disappointed and annoyed to have to leave (*esp* when fewer cases here now than back home) I kind of felt I had no real choice.

By time I was booking flights (maybe 5pm) it was hard. I had a direct flight home (Medellin-Bogota-London) and as I dithered about booking it - though maybe it would have gone anyway - because expedia weren't showing class and insurance had told me I had to travel back same class as normal - I lost it, when I clicked buy it said it had gone (£1.3kish). Panic ensues. Felt really shitty, yes it would somehow be cool to have had to stay but given insurance situation and "decision" to leave not being able to leave felt shit. Various flights via US (no chance, even without current restrictions the ESTA shit makes them useless - and thanks Opodo for not showing the stopovers in the search results, super handy) and via Marid at similar prices but massively unclear if I am allowed to fly home via Madrid. Phone lagging like fuck despite rebooting it after calling insurance co (was on hold prob 1h15m BTW) and super stressful.

Ultimately - I am sure the booking sites are struggling one way or another - I managed to short-circuit the issue by searching Bogota (instead of Medellin) to London and the direct Avianca flight I'd "missed out on" earlier came up (I had been shown the last ticket, if site not playing games). I dithered - what if no flights to Bogota? - but booked it and my fucking credit card company rejected it. This again was showing as last ticket. Luckily I tried again with another card and it hadn't sold out and it works (sincere thanks to Barclaycard). I dithered a bit more, the flight leaves Bogota 11pm ish tomorrow, but esp as I am booking other flight separately and even if I weren't this is real "last flight out" territory, so I've booked an 842amish flight to Bogota tomorrow and have got hotel to book me a taxi for 530. Fingers crossed it's all OK, I will be in Bogota airport for ages (longer than the actual flight home) but I have to play it safe.

This is probably the closest I will ever come (h/t Cryptonomicon) to walking up to an airline check-in desk and saying "get me on the next flight to London" .

The flight is about 1300, maybe a hair under 1400 with Med-Bog flight. So I should be OK on insurance, tho if this falls thru I don't have much headroom left of my 2k allowance for another try at a flight out.

If I *had* got stuck here - and I still may, who knows what will happen tomorrow? - that would suck but also be sort of cool and I like to think I'd play the hand I was dealt. (If - and I'm glad this *isn't* the case, of course - my parents were dead, I might have been more inclined to just stay on here in Colombia) But equally I have to play the game and in face of FCO advice and travel insurance iffiness of remaining I had to try to go home (for all the fact it feels silly to be fleeing a country with currently low virus cases for one struggling a bit) and it seems I *am* able to, so we are where we are.

In some ways if all goes OK I am not too badly out of pocket - my hotel reservation expired tomorrow morning anyway, I had no school or other accom booked. I paid hotel in cash since I want to run down my big cash reserve - will still be stuck with loads but can't be helped and it wasn't foolish to withdraw it.

Global health and economic situation permitting I plan to return soon-ish. If things settle down and I can afford it I might perhaps use the "spare" 5 weeks holiday cash I am not spending now to go to Guatemala before Christmas and then do another 90 day trip to Colombia in Jan 2021. All up in air but that's rough thought now.

I feel sad and a bit cheated to be leaving. But the world is *not* ending, and unless I happen to die I *will* come back. Esp after talking with Dave last night the tourist industry here may suffer a huge blow if this isn't over sharpish, but there *will* be a Colombia to come back to and with a bit of luck I'll be able to go see Dave at Onda's too.

I went out for some beers at Fonda La Colombianita after sorting flights out, technically foolish but (as with last night in Argentina and HMRC shit) I couldn't just slip off miserably. Had told myself would only have three but had seven Aguilas. Before that I poped over to small shop and spent 28k cash on misc snacks for tomorrow in hope of avoiding feeling too hungry - not time to eat in morning, I *will* have to eat at airport but this might help, TBH 28k feels insanely pricey for snacks but couldn't be helped.

I have tickets only on phone but I think that will be OK.

Had a couple of empanadas at street stall after leaving FLC, very nice, had some of the thin spicy sauce on them. Got a massive quantity of apples and bananas left in room and going to gorge on them despite not being hungry. Need to pack of course.

Worth noting that although this feels shit, it's not like this was a once-in-a-lifetime trip. I have the luxury of a hell of a lot of control over my time and I can take the travel I'm missing out on now later. And I did at least get the bulk of my holiday in before SHTF - 90 day trip, I think I am returning almost exactly 5 weeks early, so I still got 55 days of travel in.

2328 Semi-packed. Wasn't going to but got e-mail from Avianca re Bogota-London flight and have checked in online. This means I do have an aisle seat but it's fucking saying I have to print my boarding pass. Fuck knows if this means I'm shafted.

2336 Just been down to reception, can't print here. Woman reckoned I can print at airport (I didn't go into detail about this being my flight from Bogota) but I may get stung for 10-20k.  Just have to hope this is OK, I guess barring major fuckups tomorrow morning I will have hours in Bogota to sort this out (I am assuming I can show my e-ticket on phone for first flight when I check in) and if push really comes to shove I can get a cab over to an internet cafe somewhere in suburban Bogota.

Mon 0015 Bed. Don't know how much sleep I'll get but ought to try.

Medellín, Friday

Fri 1627 I do note it's Friday 13th...

Felt knackered this morning. School fairly good on the whole. Bit surprised after break to find out that some Latin American countries (not Colombia yet) are instituting a complete ban on flights from *and to* Europe (the continent) (and other places) and thus even foreigners who would not be returning will be unable to leave.

This is a bit disturbing but I must admit at the same time the idea of being forced into a kind of temporary exile is oddly exciting.

I have looked on web and details are sparse but FCO advice for Colombia says nothing about this at all and I looked at Argentina too and although it mentions it it doesn't say you should or shouldn't make an attempt to leave the country before the (currently 30 day) ban comes into effect. I guess this is pretty recent news and I will keep an eye on the situation.

Given this plus musings yesterday I am thinking it's best not to act precipitately. I did use the need to look into this as a semi-excuse (TBH I'd prefer to postpone decision anyway just in case random illness strikes over weekend) for saying I'd probably carry on at school but I wanted to let them know late Sunday/Monday morning.

I am flirting (prob said this yday) with an airbnb apartment since if I am forced to spend 7-14 days in my "home" , whether ill or not, even a small apartment with a kitchen is likely to be more comfortable than this hotel. OTOH I do like the location of this hotel and I also quite like the relative security of having reception and the fact that this means I can't possibly lose my keys or have them stolen wehile out-and-about. Might have a poke at this over weekend.

May also have said yday I am kind of thinking any side trips to places a few hours away by bus, never mind eg Cali, might be best forgotten on this trip. They would involve publicish transport exposure plus if things do flare up I suspect I'm better off in a big city than a small town.

I had half considered going over to Museo Casa de la Memoria this afternoon, perhaps taking a taxi (7.2k quoted by Beat) instead of Metro. But I dithered, I figured I'd be coming back by taxi at rush hour (6pmish) and I also would sort of like to go on Metro to see the trams, but even if I'd gone out off-peak on Metro I'd still have had the issue of coming back at peak time. And after longish call home and dithering I decided not to. Instead went out to bank for cash - there's one right next to hotel but went a block down street to a Davivienda as they seem to be fee-free if you decline their crappy forex conversion. I had depleted the day-to-day cash reserve (which lasted about a month, thanks to using credit cards where possible) so I got another 1020k out. Since it's fee free I half considered getting say 500k but I felt reasonably safe on 70 during day and it was close to hotel and I figured better to get the withdrawal over and done with, both to reduce number of cash machine trips and - not that I think this is a huge issue, but still - if there is a potential crisis brewing it may well be helpful to be sitting on a decent-ish chunk of cash.

(In addition to day-to-day cash reserve I have a fair amount stashed away solely for unexpected expenses/emergencies, but obviously I want to avoid tapping into that unnecessarily.)

I will prob go to lang exchange tonight and if there's any kind of "after party" I'll prob go along to that too. I think my cold is on the way out though still coughing a bit.

I asked in class and neither teacher nor other students seemed to feel voluntary social distancing was relevant at this point (I hope they understood me, but whatever) so while I might partially do this (not entirely clear if for my benefit or benefit of others) by eg avoiding some types of public exposure I'm not going to isolate myself at this point. Obviously will keep an eye on local advice and FCO advice.

Also popped out to Exito and got some fruit and a small chilled can of Coca-Cola con café, which teacher had mentioned (she had also said when at university she used to mix coffee with coke herself), not sure if I had tried it before but it's quite nice if a bit weird. At mum's prompting also bought some *more* acetaminophen (ie paracetamol) from a small chemist en route to Exito (price was about the same), bit pricey at 9k-ish for 20 500mg tablets but can't be helped (I did see a sign outside a random chemist other day which I think was much cheaper, but no idea where that was). I now have 60 tablets (had one box from the other week, bought two more today) which at four a day should cover me for 15 days if necessary without feeling I have to skimp and save them up for if I start to feel worse.

I note the pound is really down against the dollar today, but although it's not quite as good as it was yday or day before it's still doing pretty well against the peso - my withdrawal today was for same number of pesos as the one a month ago but was considerably less in pounds.

1811 Just watched an Atomic Shrimp video about panic buying. I was feeling relatively chilled anyway but very reassuring. (Not, to be fair to myself, that food or other item shortages have really crossed my mind as a significant worry anyway. Mine have been more about personal/family health, my "social responsibilities" and stuff related to my flight home.) Also saw some quote on web about 80%ish of cases having no or mild symptoms, so that's reassuring from a personal pain and suffering POV.

FWIW not that I actually went to look for toilet paper or hand sanitiser, the supermarket here didn't seem to be suffering any kind of panic buying, there was plenty of paracetamol and other OTC medicines, both in smallish shop I bought in and in supermarket (I went over to pharmacy-type aisle to confirm price was similar to small shop, it was). Maybe this is down to being in an earlier stage of the virus spread here, I don't know, but anyway, right now there's no sign of panic buying.

2310 Home. Mildly weird night. Got to LE at 7 which I knew would be early. But hardly anyone really turned up, and the karaoke never happened. Did have some chat with three Colombian women earlyish, then they left, then a long-term student woman from US turned up and said she'd been to two other language exchanges tonight and both were dead. We spoke a bit and a Colombian woman and her Canadian bf joined us and there was some chat (a bit wankily political "my POV is right and don't you dare argue" ish at times but not too bad) and we all split up (can't say I was entirely upset) when cafe shut 2245ish. (Very ish, as I walked straight home and it can't be more than 10 mins walk tops.) No idea why so few people there (and at other LEs) esp given how busy it was last Friday. I hope most foreigners haven't fled the country, HHOS.

I felt a tiny bit sad (in both senses) walking back with all the busy bars etc but frankly wasn't feeling in the mood for a solo beer, nor TBH feeling all that desperate for company. I didn't feel inclined to taxi over to Ondas to see what it's like there, I did suggest it to US woman when she turned up but not with overly much enthusiasm even that relatively early on, and in this mood and at this time of night when it might be intimidatingly busy and going alone would be awkward and it would probably shut in about an hour I really didn't want to go.

It's not like this is some huge crushing disappointment but the night has felt a bit flat somehow, and I am mildly perturbed at low attendance in case this *is* somehow CV related. (The weather was fine, IIRC Mon and Tue and/or Wed it pissed down 7ish for a few hours and I was lucky to avoid getting caught in it, but no serious rain tonight if any at all.) Meh.

Resisted temptation (v mild; really not in mood anyway) to get an empanada on way home. I felt mildly vulnerable on the street but I was fine, I think this is more a reflection on my current mental state of mild dissatisfaction, which I *assume* is caused by a combination of mild disappointment at tonight not being as lively as expected (not that I expected a wild party, just last-week-ish) and maybe a bit of annoyance at the smug politics (though really it wasn't that bad) I had to smile and nod through.

Cold does seem to be on the way out, maybe I will sleep better tonight. I don't want to waste tomorrow and will probably go out to some museum or similar, I may even take Metro, but I don't have huge plans and I think that's fine and it would be good to get a solid sleep in so I will probably set an alarm for 11ish and see what happens, if I choose to wake up/get up earlier that's fine but otherwise no big deal.

I'll probably listen to a bit of music and maybe have a couple of apples and go to bed shortly-ish.

Will observe the three people (US woman, Canadian guy, Colombian gf of Canada guy) at second half of LE all insisted (and of course this is terrible, culture gives men too much power, women are the prize and men should compete for them like in other species, blah blah fuck equality here and let's mandate exactly how society should work right down to the level of what people are allowed to find attractive) many women here have all had loads of plastic surgery to give them big breasts and big arses and sometimes lips etc. and that they all look super attractive. (I may be mixing up different views slightly here, as US woman said some of the women look like they went to surgeon and said "give me the biggest weirdest arse you can, I don't even want it to look natural" , which doesn't sound like she's saying they look attractive, but maybe they are supposedly attractive to men/local men.) I said truthfully I really hadn't noticed and they said I just hadn't been here long enough. I don't know, I even had my attention drawn to the question by Z asking me if the women here were attractive, they just collectively look kind of normal to me, some are attractive to me and some aren't but I'm not regularly struck by what I consider beauty or what I might consider "noticeable" (eg a woman with extremely large breasts, even if I don't particularly like the way she looks) or weirdness, like they've got bizarre proportions due to surgery. Maybe I'm just too old to be paying attention to this sort of thing but it seems unlikely, it's not like I never notice women. Fuck knows. Anyway, especially since Z had asked me about this some time ago, I write this down for what it's worth before I have a chance to mentally reconstruct my opinions after observing women on the street after this conversation.

I probably wouldn't note this otherwise but I will say the three Colombian women I spoke to at LE before this second half and who had all left before the second half were fairly attractive but not like "wow, these women are stunningly beautiful" nor were they sporting gigantic breasts (fake or otherwise). Still, it was a bit unusual for me to notice that attractiveness, but if anything that would just seem to argue for the facts that a) I *am* sensitive to these things but b) despite a), I don't in fact notice this plastic surgery freakishness which is apparently so prevalent or have a general "wow, lots of women here are really attractive (and I don't realise it's because they've had plastic surgery because I'm a dumb idiot thinking with his cock when I see them)" feeling.

Oh, while hanging around at start of LE re-checked FCO website and Argentina page no longer seemed to say anything about the 30 day ban on all flights including outbound starting in a few days. Maybe this has been clarified, I don't know. I do feel a little bit concerned I may get stuck here but in the absence of any concrete advice to the contrary it seems best to avoid taking precipitate action. I did have a quick poke on expedia and they were willing to sell me tickets for any number of flights Bogota-London on 19th April, which is from memory when I fly, so it's not as if flights on that date have been withdrawn as of now anyway.

Sat 0009 Not really in mood for any music (FWIW only had two beers and two tintos(=cheapish black coffee, if not already said that, ie non-alcoholic) tonight) and while not tired I could probably sleep so let's clean teeth, go to bed and hope I feel a bit more upbeat in morning. Not that I'm feeling terrible now but mildly dissatisfied with things all the same.

Medellín, Tuesday-Thursday

Tue 1820 Quickly bash out a bit before I go out.

Didn't sleep super well, not really sure why, just possibly it's the cold (though I kind of feel it's turned the corner).

School OKish except for fucking wanky controversial-ish topics of discussion when I'm just trying to learn a fucking language here but anyway.

Came back to hotel via El Colmado for lunch, had usual. Did homework for school and went back to school at 4 (had been told 4 but actually 4:30) for a meditation class. Bit out of my usual orbit but it's free. I'm not feeling super chatty given my perhaps-unjustified paranoia around today's class themes but was interested to note everyone else just sitting round fiddling with their phones anyway.

Meditation class was surprisingly half-decent. I felt a bit silly but tried not to worry about it. Lasted about an hour, last half hour we were just lying down with some kind of water sound playing, eyes closed and the instructor chap scooting round making noises with drums, grains-in-container-sliding-about etc instruments all round us. My mind was wandering all over place re class themes so I don't think this was particularly successful qua meditation *but* it was semi-fruitful and I did feel unexpectedly relaxed when I got back to hotel (about 1745) and there was also an interestingly 3D quality about these sounds scooting about the room unseen (I *think* he was varying the height he made them from).

So have had a shower and will head out to Dimeli for LE soon. I will prob be first there but that's fine.

(Using "qua" above just came out totally naturally; in hindsight it's perhaps a bit pretentious but since I don't frequently use it and a quick poke on dictionary.com suggests I am using it correctly I will let it stand.)

Wed 0138 Just got home. Not a bad night. Not pissed really but need to get to bed. Got Uber home, can't stop chuckling at fact the driver shouted me to return back after I got across the road (he stopped outside wrong hotel but not far away) to tell me off for slamming the car door - this is absolutely stereotypical Uber driver behaviour here and I honestly didn't do anything super forceful, and it's not like I'm not used to travelling in smallish European-y sized cars (this was a mid-sized Renault saloon too, not a typical Colombian taxi size). But as I say, it's coolish and funny because it is so stereotypical (maybe I'm drunker than I thought) but I need to get to bed.

0154 Bed. Need to sleep but watching/listening to Aguita Amarilla on YT which was playing when we got to BBC bar (Stef asked barman what it was and he was v helpful) and maybe I am drunker than I thought but I am chuckling as I listen to it/read lyrics on screen.

Wed 1548 At hotel, have been doing homework for maybe last 90 mins. I had considered going over to museo casa la memoria this afternoon but I wanted to do homework first as I plan to go to language exchange at Onda's tonight so couldn't do homework tonight, and it's a bit tight for time (plus I need to shower) given it shuts at 6.

Last night LE at Dimeli OK, ended up going on with some people to Bogota Brewing Company bar (we walked; maybe 10 mins), one of them being an Englishwoman Stef who is freelance writer for travel guides. Anyway, I ended up staying late-ish at BBC (some people left a bit earlier) and that brings us up to what I already wrote yday.

Dreaded getting up mainly due to having to go over the wankily "political" homework, did feel a bit tired and hungover but not too bad. Class was OK, I tried to be quietly attentive to the language and ignore the predictably wanky views of the other students, and once that was out of the way it was relatively good. Fruit tasting during the break was interesting, particularly liked the mangosteens.

So that pretty much catches this blog entry up with real time.

2325 Back from LE. Quite a decent night, was going to leave in time to get Metro back but was having a good chat so stayed and got an Uber back, driver nice oldish chap (had worked as administrator for farms around Colombia) and I remembered not to slam the door. Had 5 beers, not super restrained but hardly excessive. Might listen to a bit of music and eat a bit of aging fruit before going to bed.

Someone recommended Beat app for transport to me tonight so might sign up for that now, I downloaded it during LE to see I could get it - the person who recommended me told me about the liability issue with Uber so it's not just me making this up.

That reminds me a couple of Colombians tonight told me that even though the brands are the same, the cars sold here are lower quality and thus the door slamming concern of Uber drivers. I report this as I was told it without judging at this point.

2346 Just watched Aguita Amarilla on YT again, looked at comments and though for some reason I can't copy and paste the original did laugh at a comment saying what they forgot to say was the aguita amarilla was used to make beer. :-)

Thu 0010 Signed up with Beat, so will try them next time I need a cab. Uber seems to work well but the liability thing is a bit iffy. No response yet from ET to my complaints re Friday.

2208 Didn't post this last night so guess will continue here. Prob be brief.

School was OK, came back via El Colmado and did homework and then went to lang exch at school at 6. Bit of a fuckup which wasn't entirely my fault meant I ended up sitting out of the way of the LE until about 645, during which time I was able to read some scary shit about coronavirus and pseudo-voluntary self isolation even with no symptoms to slow the spread but I am unable to find any really solid advice re Colombia so I guess I will just comply with local advice. I get the feeling we're behind the curve here, the government has imposed bans on gatherings of more than 500 people yday IIRC etc, this may or may not be enough but in the absence of local advice that I really should just lock myself away in my hotel room for the good of everyone even if not for my own good I will just carry on I think.

Anyway, tho it was a bit awkward at first LE was OK. I proposed going on to LFdC, as it turned out four people came away with me but Andrés had to go home early as he wasn't feeling well and after we (I didn't eat) went for a hot dog first and then LFdC was too noisy (everywhere was, maybe cos it's Thursday) and we went up to the square north of Estadio metro and then one of us didn't like it there cos it was too cold and two of them drifted off I ended up walking down to Dimeli with the one remaining woman, but they had their movie night on so we couldn't talk in there, and we ended up at a small cafe down past a church and were chatting there and I was feeling v awkward as staff were cleaning up but I didn't want to be seeming to try to make excuse to go home. All OK really but bit odd. Beer was 2.5k, I made it 4k and this seems to cause a minor stir, but I said it was the tip and they accepted it. I don't know if this looked ultra flash but apart from the fact I'm now sure I could have made it 3k as have been lead to believe a 500 tip would be so small as to be kind of insulting, I felt quite guilty about being there so late. Meh, I don't fucking know.

Woman I met at Onda's first night WhatsApped me, her flight back to Munich (direct from Medellin) has been cancelled. This is mildly scary shit but ultimately nothing I can do. (It's actually this "*should* I be minimising my exposure to other people for their sake as much as mine?" business which is kind of disturbing, as I *could* do that, but it's not at all clear if I should or not as the advice I am seeing is UK/US oriented.) I still have about (slightly over I think) 5 weeks before I fly home and who knows where we'll be in Colombia, Spain (I fly back via Madrid) and UK by that point. I have travel insurance and I guess if I'm prevented from returning when planned neither the travel insurance nor the Colombian authorities can kick up a stink about exceeding the 90 day period they both allow.

The French women in class did actually have some kind of message (I overheard this, I think - which is odd, as surely they'd have been speaking French? but anyway) about calling asap re some flight (one of their parents are coming out to visit them, they aren't going back to France) too. Fuck knows. AFAICT - and it is mostly irrelevant - right now there aren't any restrictions on flights Colombia-Spain and Spain-UK in the homeward bound direction at least.

Maybe I should be panicking and trying to get on a flight back to the UK ASAP but that might well be an out of the frying pan into the fire decision. I managed to feel mildly panicky while solo reading that shit (from semi-reputable sources) in the school "waiting" for LE to start, but since I got talking to people tonight felt OK.

Oh, one of the women from the mini-abortive-non-pub-crawl tonight did invite me to join them/some of her other friends at Dancefree on Saturday night. I was flattered and said so but declined on true and already waffled about grounds related to my dislike of and inability to dance. It *wasn't* a factor in declining (which I felt a bit bad about anyway) but while I am probably going to continue to go out on the LE circuit, at least this is typical in less busy places than I might guess DF is.

While I doubt it will happen, I should be honest and observe that it has crossed my mind that maybe, just maybe, I'll manage to jump over the peak coronavirus shit by being in Colombia while some sort of critical period is passed back in the UK and then return before it goes critical here. I have no idea if that's even feasible, but writing it since thought occurred. Did see something saying mortality for under 40s was about 0.2% and I'd hope it doesn't soar too rapidly for people a bit over 40. I am still mainly worried about the possible effect on my parents but really it's probably fine. The stuff I read earlier did seem semi-authoritative but I think it was also heavily playing up the scare story angle in order to motivate people to voluntary reduce their social contact to slow the spread/"flatten the curve".

It has occurred to me that all this shit probably makes it highly inadvisable to go off on long trips within Colombia (eg deciding to go down to Cali), and may even (given it would mean being on public-ish transport for long-ish period) argue against trips to nearby-ish places. For that matter maybe I should prefer Uber or similar over metro even during day, I don't know, I don't want to go paranoid. Fuck knows. As I said before, I think it doesn't help the advice I'm reading is US/UK-ish and I think Colombia is a bit behind in terms of number of cases etc so far.

I did feel a bit tired when getting up for class today so I may move towards bed shortly; am not really tired right now but prob could sleep.

Did I mention I met a hip-hop peformer (Jason) from New York at bar at start of LE at Onda's last night? He said he was on a tour performing in Colombia but it looked like the coronavirus ban on large gatherings might mean his next concert was cancelled.

2257 Right, moving slowlyish towards bed. Read a little more re CV and saw some advice to not read too much news as its counterproductive; I already knew this of course. I think:

- there's no point doing stuff (eg reading news) which makes me more prone to worry and doesn't have any other useful effect.

- I do wonder if I should be isolating myself on "social distancing" grounds. I think *in the absence of any local requests to do this* (I would not necessarily wait for it to be forced on me by forced closures of bars etc) I will continue mostly as normal, but perhaps (I guess it's not a binary thing) try to reduce my exposure to large groups (and thus their exposure to me), in reality except for the school where I'm in a classroom with 5ish other people for four hours, most of the time I am not close to other people very long - the times and places I am eating the restaurants are usually pretty quiet. I guess the language exchange scene is close exposure too though.

- I will keep washing my hands relatively often and try to keep them away from my face.

- While it would doubtless be pretty sucky to be ill and/or self-quarantining for up to 14 days in a hotel room (and presumably living off takeaways delivered to the hotel; if I were at home I'd make sure I had enough rice etc for 14 days and could cook for myself as normal, and if I were too ill to cook I'd probably be too ill to eat, but that isn't an option here) it would almost certainly be no more than that - pretty sucky. Not horrific or life altering or anything. Just maybe this should push me towards getting an airbnb apartment with a freezer and buying in a modest stock of rice and frozen veg or what have you, but TBH that's probably not really necessary.

- Similarly, while getting caught up in various snarl-ups re getting home (cancelled flights, being ill or self-quarantining when I am due to fly home, insurance or visa issues) would be sucky, these are not in themselves huge life-threatening problems - a few months down the line they'd just be mildly interesting/tedious stories.

 

- I can't control what happens with eg parents health, but they're back in the UK and will probably be OK anyway.

- I personally will probably survive if I do get it, and in any case that is again something I can't control so should try to avoid worrying about.

Medellín, Monday

Mon 1711 Didn't sleep very well, not nightmares or worried as such but I seemed to be having some sort of vivid semi-waking dream where the world was heavily populated with sort of semi-ghosts as well as real people, they weren't scary or intimidating, they were just kind of like people but not really properly there (this is trying to approximate the dream, I don't have crystal clear recall of it) and somehow this was incompatible with sleeping properly. Probably also didn't help that when I went to bed my throat started to feel a bit sore. I felt pretty shit when the alarm went off about 740 and wished I hadn't signed up for classes, but although it still feels a bit funny my throat has been broadly OK once I got up.

(Right lower side of teeth also hurting a bit when I brush them for last day or two. Don't hurt otherwise, fingers crossed this is just temporary wisdom tooth shifting round kind of stuff.)

Got to school OK, shown round, seems quite a swish building. Had oral exam, put into a group with three others (two French women and a woman from Philadelphia). Everything went OK, we did some subjunctive in second half and while nominally very basic and something I have seen before it wasn't trivial for me.

Paid for the week at end of classes, also paid hotel (they asked me yday if I could pay today) for stay up to and including tomorrow night and have also made another reservation taking me through to next Monday morning.

Walked over to Naan (passing Don Kavi where I will prob be going in a couple of hours) and had a fairly decent chicken karahi with basmati pilau rice with cashew apples and a garlic naan and a hibiscus tea. Was tempted to get a beer but unless I missed something all the beer was artisanalish and cost 10k each. Bill including tip was 55176 which isn't cheap but not insane. In London I'd think that was amazing value, but compared to my typical 20k-ish or less meals it seems pricey. I will probably go back there (not too often) if I am around here for a few more weeks.

Think I have about six weeks left. In a way this feels like a shame but as always better to feel that than be anxiously counting down the days until I can leave.

2226 Back from LE. Not a bad night, only spoke a bit of Spanish and most of that with guy from Manchester I had met (though didn't remember him at first, gah) at Dimeli last Tue.

Colombian woman there who is going to teach a salsa class there on Thu tried to encourage me to go, I prob won't. I already turned a salsa class down at school (tho have signed up for other activities). Oddly another guy I spoke to there was telling me about the salsa club where carrera 70 meets calle 33 (Dancefree or something like that) and he said it was really friendly. In some sense the social aspect of something like this appeals but although you could argue it would be comfort-zone-pushing I'm reluctant to dive (or more like paddle) in to the whole area of learning salsa at this point. And in some ways I really really don't want to learn at all. I mean sure, if someone magically granted me a modest competence at dancing salsa with the wave of a wand, I might eg go down to Dancefree having had this recommendation to see what it's like, but I'd be going to see if I had any interesting conversations with the salsa merely being a kind of "entrance fee" .

FWIW the salsa teacher gave me and Manchester guy (I know his name but not writing it here for probably stupid reasons) some advice on safety. Obviously just one person's opinion but she said:

- if someone speaks to you when you're walking alone (as a foreigner) at night, don't speak back - just gesture with hand or shake head or whatever. Apparently if you speak they will know you're a foreigner and are more likely to rob you or whatever. Apparently it doesn't matter that we look like foreigners, not talking makes a big difference.

- it's a *good* thing (I clarified this to be sure hadn't got sense wrong) to be wearing headphone, presumably on the grounds it gives you an "excuse" to ignore people and in reality if someone comes at you from behind you will feel them as quickly as you'd hear them. I think she actually meant *listening to music* on headphones, though in theory you could wear the headphones just for show. I'm a bit dubious about this, if nothing else I suspect it might slightly reduce ability to hear cars etc.

- I asked explicitly about walking fast - and remember this is abstract, she has not seen me walking fast so there's no personal body language issues in play here - and she said this was bad, I said would it make a difference if you had (never mind whether I could pull it off) confident body language "otherwise" and she said no, walking fast looked nervous, so don't do it.

Her and Manchester guy were also kind enough to say (I don't believe I was fishing, but who knows) that apart from the fact I didn't look as old as I am (I was wearing cap FWIW, which hides the baldness and whitish hairs, though after my no 1 cut other day the whitish hairs are probably less noticeable anyway - I didn't wear it for those reasons at the LE itself, I don't need it to protect myself from sun at night, but I wore it since I figured I'd probably look less conspicuously touristy on the walk home wearing it - if I'd expected to get a taxi home or was at Dimeli which is almost on 70 and not very far really I'd have gone out without cap at night), my feeling that it was weird for me to be in places where nearly everyone was younger than me was all in my head. I don't know if I believe this but jotting it down FWIW.

I walked home slowly (or as best I could; it isn't primarily a nerves thing for me, I *want* to walk fast to get where I'm going - still, I think I did fairly well) and didn't have any problems, though it was fairly early (not that many people around except on 70 though) compared to last week.

Going to do a spot of laundry since I am back earlyish.

2307 Done. FWIW bloke who told me about Dancefree was an interesting chap, he'd studied brewing in Calgary, was going back to Japan to teach IIRC English there until his semi-retired friend finished his last year at brewing school and then they were going to open a microbrewery in Panama (prob Boquete or Panama City) - this chap was from Florida but him mum was Panamanian and I think he wasn't quite bilingual but spoke pretty decent Spanish (I only spoke to him in English). We also had a bit of a discussion about digital nomads and he made the interesting (perhaps because it flatters my own prejudices?) that the lifestyle is over-hyped, as if you're only working a few hours a day, and in reality you're working quite a lot for not that much money. My person take is that some people probably do earn a decent salary but for many it's going to be a way of travelling without drawing on savings but not something you could do your whole life, you'd have to be doing a pseudo-extended-gap-year kind of deal or never plan to retire (as I doubt you'd be earning enough to save much) or doing it as a kind of semi-retirement. This is pure speculation on my part, I obviously don't know and I don't think it's something I want to do myself (notwithstanding some similarities to my current lifestyle where I travel quite a lot), I'm just waffling/writing down what I said to him in that conversation.

Incidentally I tried to install DiDi-Rider and InDriver on phone today but neither seems to be available (I think this is reason) in Colombia, despite other people here in Colombia having mentioned them to me. Fuck knows. Will ask next time I get a chance. Based on speaking to people tonight they use Uber, I am seriously down on ET (no response to my Fri night complaints yet), so while I may still be forced to use ET I have installed Uber on the HTC and will if necessary take a chance of maybe being stuck with any fines or towing charges of whatever the driver incurs (which according to MG site may be a consequence of the legal "hack" being used to allow them to resume operating in Colombia; obviously I'm not an expert, just noting this because I think "normally" you would "of course" not be liable for those things when using Uber).

I have to say that after the possibly iffy business in Cartagena with the taxi to the top of that hill and then Friday night, any attempts I might make to "see both sides" wrt disputes between Uber and Colombian-state-acting-on-behalf-of-taxi-driver-monopoly are increasingly half-hearted. But I don't pretend this is strictly fair, and of course my opinion doesn't actually matter.

Since I only drank kombucha tonight (though one might have been 3-4% as it was a weird "café" one) I am pretty sober and although of course any alcohol is Too Much and I must be drinkaware.co.uk, last few days have been pretty restrained.

Tue 0005 Bed. FWIW despite walking past twice today got lost on way to DK and had to get GM out, but never mind.

Medellín, Sunday

Sun 2115 Not too bad a day overall.

Didn't get to sleep til gone 4am, some stupid shitty concerns I won't mention here kept running through my head. Alarm at 10 found me feeling not surprisingly a bit knackered, I finally got up at 11ish in response to cleaner trying to get in.

Think I went out for a wander about 12. Had a couple of tintos at Super Todos Mickey Mouse (1k each), later found myself on carrera 81 where had been when I got lost trying to go to ethnography museum and had another tinto (800) and a ham and cheese croissant (2k) at a smallish open-to-street cafe which I had seen that other day. Quite an interesting selection of baked treats there and might return.

Wandering on I came across La Fonda del Burro which had also seen and been tempted by that other day so went there for lunch. Pretty decent churrasco and chips with jugo de lulo en leche, sadly the salad which I asked for undressed (and which turned up after I'd eaten the rest of the meal) had something slimy in it, maybe it was dressing or just some fancy ingredient - to be fair it looked a sort of "fancy" salad and if you're into that sort of thing probably nice, but I sniffed it and decided not to eat it and pushed it away. *Two* staff noticed and asked me if I wanted another one, I think they even offered to do me a lettuce and tomato salad, but I declined - I really don't like eating salads even undressed (vegetables yes, when I cook them myself with rice or in a curry, but salads always feel boring and/or mildly disgusting) and I normally force them down at the start of the meal and didn't want to do this at end, plus *maybe* it was my fault for not asking clearly and it would have been super awkward if they'd brought me something and I still didn't like it. Kudos to them for trying to be accommodating. I was able to pay by card, they did miss the juice off the first bill but not a big deal. I might well go back at some point, ditto with both the two places I went for coffee and/or snacks beforehand.

Did toy with going into Don Kavi's but I had seen on GM (and in person as I happened to pass it anyway) it was shut today. Also passed shop-cum-bar I went to with Angus after last Monday's exchange at DK. I passed a barber's and although I didn't like the look of it that reminded me I had planned last night to get a haircut today, so a quick poke on GM and found  Barberia Alfa (think that was it) and went in and got a no 1 all over for 13k (made it 15k with tip) and had a fairly decent (if mildly awkward as usual 70-80% understanding plus of course I was at a funny angle and clippers etc buzzing round head) chat with barber and some other chap (maybe a mate, or another barber). Interestingly enough they had a sign inside advertising beer at 3k if I remember, but I didn't try to extend my stay by having a beer.

Then came back via exito (I was passing, and got some fruit) and had said to myself I'd do the elefun written exam (which I forgot to say they had e-mailed me this morning) and then go have three (no more) beers at FdlC. So I did that, although I popped round corner to elefun to make sure I could find it first (easy) and the first time I went into FdlC the sole customer (?) who I sat vaguely near gabbled something at me and I jumped to the conclusion he was telling me to leave or something, but after wandering down 70 and feeling a bit pissed off I went back eventually - bit tempted to go into BC13 (?) opposite which had more ppl and beers at 2.5k so not much more, but most customers watching football on big screen and most of free tables might have been blocking view of other people so I went with FdlC. OK but felt a bit unsatisfactory somehow, had two beers and came back to hotel. Slacked off a bit but also done a tiny bit of laundry. Need to do minor prep for tomorrow and not go to bed too late.

Bit excited and also a little bit edgy about starting class.

2341 Not exactly tired but not not tired and probably to go bed shortly.

Medellín, Friday-Saturday

Fri 1509 Quietly but surprisingly enjoyable day so far.

Slept pretty badly, woke up from minor nightmare at one point. Drowsed in bed from 9ish, got up about 10 feeling slightly rough.

Poked at MG site, decided to go over to Museo Casa Gardeliana - I will probably do some kind of park/walking thing tomorrow and so this seemed a reasonable compromise, plus it involved the Metroplus buses which looked like a very small comfort zone stretch.

Left hotel 11ish, got over to Gardel metro with no real problems. Went via Industriales as suggested on MG - I suspect this is suggested as it involves no "out of station" interchanges so is easier and (feels) safer. I noticed on the way that it would be possible to come back via an OOS interchange at Cisneros so thought I'd try that on way back.

Feeling a bit hot, including on bus, but not terrible.

Got a bit lost getting from Gardel metro to museum even though I knew it was very close. In the end I managed to get a grip on the location and found it, though thanks to crossing a street I thought was one way on a red man I nearly got pancaked by a bus coming the other way.

Museum very quiet, just me and a MoS up far end. Examined the exhibits on walls, watched video and listened to Por Una Cabeza. Lots of tables in there and there was a small cafe area near office-worker-looking MoS so I asked and I got a tinto for 1k. Sat at one of tables just looking at the place and that was oddly "romantic" - according to MG place had tango performances from IIRC 1978-2012 and while not tiny, for a music venue it felt very intimate and it was cool to imagine all the stuff that had gone on there while sitting there with the place deserted. It was also, while not temperature *cool*, coolish with the odd breeze through window, quite shady and the palm tree leaves showing outside open street door with bright light in the street was all very pleasant.

Had a second tinto, a couple of prob locals came in roughly during this and seemed to have a chat together with MoS; I earwigged lightly but didn't really make that much of an effort. Left 4k voluntary donation on way out. While it's a little out of the way, I could imagine going back there for a coffee and a sit and a mull again at some point.

Alan Parsons Project "Eye in the sky" playing at Gardel metro when I left museum, which for some reason made me grin like a loon. Got bus back to Cisneros no problem, no real problem with interchange either. Came back to hotel via El Colmado (where I went other day) and had steak+chips+salad, portion seemed even larger than last time.

Did think while in museum - as have other days incl yday in PB with A+M - I really do need to improve my Spanish. I'm sure just being here helps a bit but I do maybe need to think about taking classes or something, or doing a bit more self-study while I'm here, or having more lessons with my usual teacher. The lang exchanges here probably also help a bit as they're not entirely "English speaker meetups in disguise" .

Sat 0117 Been back at hotel for 21 mins but fucking ET driver has *still* not marked the journey complete. He is not responding to any of my messages and the app won't let me raise an issue with an incomplete journey. I don't know if it matters as it is an ET fare but I did also note his taximeter started the journed at COP7920. I want to go to bed - I'm pretty sober BTW, 3 bottles of beer all night, technically a decent night but mildly unsatisfying tho don't intend to write it up tonight as want to go to bed so I can "do shit" (maybe Parque Arvi) earlyish but instead I'm stuck waiting for this fucking journey to be marked complete. *Maybe* this is not the driver trying to scam me - I mean, the fucking app *shows* where the taxi is so it's obvious he has gone miles past my drop off point - but I don't know.

0137 OK, the cunt has put a wrong destination on the journey and charged me 30k pesos. I have submitted a complaint to ET complete with screenshots; if they don't help that's it, they are clearly not trustworthy. This isn't like the Cartagena case where *maybe* I got confused. Fortunately I *can* eat 30k pesos if need be (it should have been 10kish). I kept getting phone calls on my Colombian number 10ish mins ago, I have a voicemail but not listened to it. I have no idea if the driver is able to get hold of my phone number or not, I would hope not. I *don't* need ET, the other guys I was out with tonight got different app-based cabs so I could easily switch to one of those.

While I don't like being ripped off, the actual amount is low. But if ET don't help, this means they are simply worthless. Apart from lost money, I lost 30 mins+ waiting to see what was going to happen and submitting a complaint about it afterwards. In many ways that hurts more than the cash.

Sat 1729 Back at hotel probably for rest of day. This feels a bit sad and in a way it would be nice to go out for a few solo beers eg at FdlC but I've been out one way or another just about every night since last Saturday and it would also be nice to have a quiet night in. (It is IMO very unlikely but not impossible someone will personally invite me out, in which case I would go.) I need to do some laundry, it would be good to do a little Spanish study, it would also be good to have a bit of a think (coming towards end of the current hotel reservation) about ongoing plans (Guatape/El Penol - do a day trip or go over for a few days? Valle de Corcora? Formal Spanish study). I don't know how much of this I will do, I don't feel exactly run down but sort of "meh, don't want to do anything hard" . Don't really feel in mood for writing this up - there are some bits I do want to mention but bashing out the chronological stuff feels like a chore, but Future Me will appreciate it and even if this burns up some of my limited supply of willpower I think it's worth it. Might do it in little chunks.

So last night I decided to go to the language exchange/karaoke at Dimeli at 7. I reasoned roughly that the alternative was the one at Onda's at 7 but that went on til 2 whereas the Dimeli one was only til 10, so I could go to the Dimeli one and then go onto to Onda's later. Plus the Dimeli one seemed more likely to be sober-ish so I'd drink a bit less over the whole night that way.

It did work out mostly like that. I didn't enjoy the lang exch bit at Dimeli last night as much as the one on Wed but it was OK, saw Andres again and chatted a bit with some people and did get a bit of Spanish practice. I didn't sing but karaoke was quite fun. Only had one beer there, stuck to tinto mostly. They closed about 2230 and there weren't that many of us there and I managed to tag along with a group of about five people going over (I sort of instigated it but also sort of massively tagged along) so we walked over together. Onda's was busy but not intolerably heaving. I think what kind of made the night mildly crappy was the *feeling* I got from being there of being really disconnected and the thought that had I not turned up with a group it would have been really hard to talk to someone. In reality it might have been fine, and had I been there from 7 it might also have been different of course.

The other minor problem was one of our group spoke virtually no Spanish, the others except me were either native speakers or pretty much fluent. On walk over there we had mixed round a bit but once we got there it kind of happened the rest of the group mostly spoke Spanish and mostly (though not all the time) I was chatting with the other guy, and when I was with the Spanish group I felt a bit of a fraud/drag due to my level not being high enough (I could get the gist, but I did feel a bit sub-par).

It shut fairly early (well, we didn't get thrown out, but rest of my group was leaving and only a dozen-ish other people there and clearly was shutting) so got the ET and got shafted as already written.

So not really a bad night but just some personal annoyances, and although not a huge one this is one of many times lately when I've been feeling I really need to give my Spanish a kick up the arse if only I can stop being so lazy and indecisive. But maybe more ramblings on that theme as I try to sort out onward plans later.

So that's Friday done. Let me slack off a bit and then write today up.

1841 Didn't sleep super well and was late to bed thanks to taxi. For some reason hotel staff tried to get into my room about 10am while I was awake but not dressed and appeared unable to hear me when I called through the door; I hastily dressed and shoved my head out and a cleaner down the corridor apologised to me and said there was no problem. Not a big issue but odd, I've seldom been out of room that early and they've never tried to come in before.

I dithered and really wasn't in the mood but decided to go over to Parque Arvi. Had to top up Civica card at Estadio before setting out as it's an expensive journey due to it being 10k each way on the final leg (a personalised Civica card might only charge 1k but I don't have one, and if true I think that is an unusually large saving), bit of a queue but no big deal.

Got over there no trouble. Cable cars pretty cool and more frequent/less queuing than I expected. I didn't take any photos from them as never had car to self (though on the final outbound leg up to PA I *could* have had one if I hadn't dithered on the platform expecting I needed permission to board, not the end of the world) and it seemed a bit touristy and (based on a random comment I read on web) locals may feel it's rude of you to be taking pictures of their slummy houses. To be fair some of the houses looked a bit shitty but in part I think they just have tatty roofs; not saying they are great houses but not all that bad. Probably not areas you want to be wandering round as a tourist though.

Ears popped on way up and it's noticeably colder as you get on the last leg (line L, IIRC) up to PA. I just wore one of long sleeved synthetic tops as I hadn't thought it would be colder up there and although I was fine one of the wool ones might have been better. On return journey as we got in the car at line L-K interchange to head down a woman said something to her friend to the effect that you could immediately feel the heat (maybe the air in the car is warmer as it's carried up from the valley floor) and she was right.

Being on the cable car does give a pretty cool view (though it was quite hazy) and really show how the city is in a valley.

Park was initially a bit of a disappointment. I had expected most tours to be every 30 mins, in reality there was one tour starting about every 30 mins and most were really short. Long story short, there was supposed to be a 3h tour at 1330 (I got up there about 1230) although today it was replaced by a *different* 3h tour and needed 7? people, so I had to go wander off and eat a bit (empanada and then a torta de chocolo, the latter seeming to be a bread-ish cake with a slice of cheese in, reasonably nice) and wander down to the area with the cafe and look at the little archaelogy exhibit to kill time. I hadn't taken bag/coat - just a bottle of water - and it was lightly spitting rain.

In the end five people including me expressed an interest in tour - guide spoke to three of us earlier and said we could do a shorter one if we got fewer people. I am far from clear if we did set out on any 3h tour or not, I understood 80% of what was said but a) did we have enough ppl to start it b) there was a thunderstorm in distance during trip and guide asked us something and we may have had to cut the tour short/not do the long tour because of that. We had to buy disposable plastic ponchos (the environmental horror! but I did find it mildly ironic that they sold these) for 3k before we set out and we all (incl guide) put them on when rain intensified a little earlyish in tour. Mine was torn/I tore it down the front, but I held it together OK. It wasn't pissing it down anyway.

The tour was quite decent really and guide quite informative but it was only maybe 1.5h for whatever reason and at 25k for foreigners it felt a smidge expensive for what it was. For the record the snake up the tree in my photos is a wooden one, though I didn't know that when guide pointed snake out and I photographed it. We did get to eat a few wild blueberries IIRC and also touch a sort of curled up hairy young plant (pata de perro?????) which looked a little bit like a hairy snail. Also hard to really "take in" the surroundings when you're walking and holding bottle of water and holding poncho together. Didn't take that many photos in part due to difficulty of getting camera out of pocket, tho got enough to get flavour.

At end guide warned us cable car might not be running, and it wasn't. He said (and had told us while talking to us at a map display at start) there was a bus into town, but luckily after joining not-huge-but-not-tiny queue at cable car station the service started again.

In the second cable car journey (line K IIRC) coming back - the one where woman made comment about heat at start - the locals (at least native speakers; I suspect some were Colombian tourists not people living locally) were sort of chatting a bit and saying some stuff about foreigners bringing the coronavirus. I don't think this was aimed at me but I did feel a mild temptation to start coughing a lot. Almost as we got to the end of the line I sort of heard (I wasn't trying *hard* to listen in; I was half trying not to) some comments about "el solito" and I got the impression they were talking about and maybe *to* me but I didn't like to leap in and start saying stuff out of the blue if they hadn't, so I sort of made probably weird eye contact with one woman opposite and a few seconds later her friend sitting next to me tapped me on the shoulder and asked if I was local and I said I was a tourist and she asked if I was travelling alone and I said I was and was tempted to ask if they thought that was a bad idea but couldn't marshall the words and make a decision quickly enough. We got into station at that point and so although maybe I could have tried to talk to them some more I said goodbye and it was all very quietly amicable. A bit of a weird situation, not *bad*, but again I wish my Spanish was better, then I could have earwigged better in the car and maybe joined in and at least the last bit where I did speak would have been more fluid instead of me struggling to understand things.

So I came back to hotel to drop off bag and plastic poncho which I had been carrying since got into cable car at PA (it's maybe an hour for the total journey), knew I wanted food but dithered. In end found restaurant down 70 which had fried chicken which I had half been fancying, but I got a quarter of pollo asado instead since they had both. I originally and not making a Spanish error asked about half a chicken (no proper menu so was asking waitress) - I have eaten half a chicken and chips before, when hungry - but her mildly surprised reaction and suggestion of a quarter made me feel maybe half would be excessive, and it turned out quarter+chips+salad was 11k and I could get a juice in milk (I picked lulo) for 4.5k so I did that. Pretty decent, I probably could have eaten a half chicken but that was enough really. Tipped 3k, esp as did get salad undressed and it was a pretty substantial meal.

Have been washing the odd apple in tap water back at hotel over last few days and tho had half toyed with going to exito for water (practically opposite the restaurant) I did a bit of poking on web and have decided I will take a punt on the tap water here in Medellin. Not necessarily drinking gallons yet, but will have a bit.

So that's the chronology up to date. Let's have a bit of a slack off then maybe I'll do a bit of thinking about future plans and maybe scribble some stuff here as an aid to thinking.

2315 Been totally slacking. It's fine, did tiny bit of laundry. TBH thinking I may not "do" anything special tomorrow but perhaps just go for a walk round Laureles and have some coffee and mull etc etc.

Anyway. Let me just waffle a bit here re Spanish:

- as a random sample (someone I met at karaoke exchange last night was studying there) elefun want COP595k for a week=10h of private lessons. That is USD16.6/hour - and I only pay USD13/hour to my current private internet-based treacher. Obviously there is something to be said for being there in the flesh in terms of communicating with teacher, and also for studying *while* I am staying in a Spanish speaking country, but still. To give elefun credit, they do seem to allow you to book just a week at a time.

- obviously I could in theory do some private study, and I am going to get some benefit from the language exchanges here.

- in reality, am I perhaps *mainly* paying for being forced to do 10-20h or whatever a week rather than allowing myself to slack off and just do a few hours here and there?

- one downside to booking in for a course is that it's constraining. I couldn't easily go off to eg Guatape (assuming have got name right) for a couple of days mid-week. Of course I could go Fri afternoon and return Sun evening. Or if I were studying by the week (or longer, if planned) I could of course do "full time" classes for 3-4 weeks then revert back to "casual tourist mode" afterwards as I have been for the last week.

- of course studying full time burns up my time here, but if I want to do it and I think it's more helpful somehow than private study back home+internet classes then it's hardly a waste. I don't have any real "must do" items (though I would like to see El Penol, at worst that is a trivial *day trip* I could do one weekend regardless). Valle de Corcora (sp, from mem, based on a random web page I read) might be nice but I think I'd have plenty of time to go there even if I studied another 4ish weeks (modulo weather), but as long as I'm using my time semi-productively/entertainingly I don't think it really matters. I won't have VdC regrets on deathbed, plus it's quite likely I will be back in Colombia in the future. And of course *if* I can kick my Spanish up a notch (I am not sure if the study in Xela really helped or not, it is so hard to tell) that would feel really good *and* be helpful with future travels.

- doing classes *is* a bit like having a job, eg I could well be needing to get up at 8 Mon-Fri if classes were 9-1. But if it's for something I want to do I can live with that, as I did in Xela, and to be fair for better or worse most of the social activities I've seen here seem to be with people who don't stay out super late for one reason or another anyway.

- I feel a little pressure as classes are *probably* Mon-Fri and *just maybe* I could start Mon. But especially if I go 1-1, I could potentially start mid-week. And it's also the case that while I'd kind of rather not as I'd like to be here to try to get to know people at these lang exchange etc events, I *could* for example just continue touristing it up for the coming week with perhaps (making this up for example purposes) Tue-Thu nights away in Guatape before returning to Medellin for Fri night and start classes the following week.

- I think I would want to do *fairly* intensive classes, eg 9-1 every day - that's 4h a day or 20h a week. elefun (just going with them as a starting point) do *group* classes at that level for COP525k a week. Obviously I may well learn less in a group class, but it *may* also in some ways be helpful (from an educational, not social, perspective) as long as the group isn't huge. Thats £112.35 (spurious precision alert) so £22/day. That's not negligible but especially if I can continue to stay in this hotel or something similar at about £9/day it probably isn't busting the trip budget terribly, even before I start to possibly argue this is "education" or "hobby" spending and can be justified on those grounds. I suppose one way of looking at it is that I have about 6 weeks of the trip left. So maximum spend here using that elefun example price is £674; that is not negligible, but  it is not a life changing amount of money even if I felt it was a complete waste (and if I were feeling that, I wouldn't be doing it continuously for six weeks).

- of course if I wanted to improve my Spanish on the cheap (without going back to check prices) the thing to do would probably be to go back to Guatemala (or maybe some other equally cheap country) and study there. But it may well be COL is actually lower here (probably not), and to some extent I *do* want to be in Medellin/Colombia right now and I quite like the social/lang exchange scene that seems to exist (Xela seemed a bit bleak at times socially) and it's a bit of a trade off.

- going back to the group class business, obviously 1-1 it is going to be in theory more focussed on me and I won't have to "waste" time while other students are eg speaking. But that may be no bad thing in terms of bringing the intensity down just a touch and making it more comfortable, and it may also be helpful to have some concepts reviewed in a class situation and hear other people's questions about the material and so on.

- I have to say I am leaning towards signing up for a no-other-commitment week of classes starting Monday and see how it goes. But I sure as fuck don't want to rush into this too much. On the other hand, it *may* be possible for me to sign up tomorrow afternoon to start Monday, depending how the admissions process works, but by tomorrow night it is *possibly* too late (though I could take a punt on turning up at my chosen school Mon morning and asking).

- elefun are actually *really* close to this hotel, as it happens. I feel fate sliding me over to them... I do after all have a single personal recommendation for them.

2359 Fuck it, I've emailed elefun on the offchance it's a small enough outfit (they have a gmail address for e-mail) they will reply - OK, just had an automated response saying they will not reply until school opens Monday, but it does say if you want to start classes for the coming week you need to be at the school at 815 on Mon for a level test. So I guess it *is* possible, I can sleep on this, perhaps follow my wander-plus-coffee-plus-mulling plan for tomorrow and just turn up at the school Monday morning if I decide to go ahead. I haven't shopped around re price but the location is good (assuming I can extend at this hotel for similar price as I have had up to now; I quite like this location really) and as I say I have had a personal recommendation and the price is certainly *OK*.

Sun 0157 Been slacking off on YT, could be worse. Bed I think. Actually a bit surprised it is so late!