Friday 30 April 2010

Well that was interesting

Fri 3:45am. I just got back. Was going to write this on laptop but they have either killed the wifi or my laptop sucks. Either is believable.

I did try The Londoner, of course, but the were closed. No big deal. To the busy street (lots of people) for a cab.

Not many cabs. Some woman accosted me and I ended up arranging with her to get me a cab. She spoke pretty good English, not that I needed it, but still.

She started flagging down cabs and pushing into virtual queues far more aggressively than I would have done. She got one and I slipped her a dollar, feeling obliged. He was going to charge six but she said that was a ripoff and he left. She said the going rate was two or three. Given she could have put me in that cab I can't help feeling she had some idea of genuinely helping.

While we waited we chatted a little and she said she lived round where I was and she would come with me. I didn't object even internally as she seemed fairly unthreatening and if she got me home and saved me money I didn't mind her tagging along.

A bit later she flagged down another guy. He wanted eight at first, she objected and he said five then four. She asked me if I had change and I said I did. She sort of wanted me to get in the front but I moved towards the back seat. She waved us off (so fuck knows what all that "I will come with you" (in English) was about).

The cab driver seemed to enjoy clapping his hands while he drove. But no matter. He dropped me off somewhere plausible looking and (in Spanish, I can't remember exactly how it went) seemed to want five. But for some reason I was strong and said we'd said four and paid him four and he was OK with it.

On getting out I realised I didn't know where I was. (I wonder if the driver got the wrong church - there are three near here - but I am fairly sure I told him. And if he was trying to extort more for taking me where I wanted to be he wasn't very good at it.) I dug the GPS out and I was 230m from home. Nice.

So I wandered along the fortunately well-lit if deserted street in the right direction, anticipating an unpleasant last fifty metres as per my trip out. And then the GPS died. I turned it back on and it died again. Joy. Fortunately I had a rough idea of the direction from when it worked, and by sheer chance I found myself walking round the edge of the peninsula at the end of calle 9a (so presumably one off my hostel's road, 8a) and I did indeed find it. So I at least avoided any dark streets. The hostel was totally dark but on saying 'hola' a couple of times to the buzzerless doorway some guy let me in.

I remember on earlier occasions in the trip being in cabs home and feeling chuffed with myself for speaking a bit of the language and feeling in control. (I do think even in London there's a certain "I might be paying through the nose but otherwise I am sorted" quality about taking a cab anywhere.) Clearly for multiple reasons, way beyond problems caused by my Spanish skills, that will never happen in Panama City. On three cab trips so far, not one has been without some kind of pain.

I can vaguely see why the woman helped me, given I felt compelled to slip her a dollar, even if she didn't want to cadge a ride. She's a freelance tout. And for all the fact my taxi driver was incompetent, she saved me something between one and three dollars even allowing for her fee. And also kind of educated me as to how much I should pay in future, whereas I would have 'happily' paid six had I hailed the first cab myself, whereas now unless I am absolutely desperate I will bargain down to at least four. I'd have got there sooner or later, but she helped me get there a lot sooner.

I do not see why the taxi driver dumped me 230m from where I wanted to be without at least trying to extort a further fare. I am at least chuffed I didn't bow to his attempt to get an extra dollar out of me. That would have rankled anyway, but after I found I wasn't even home (all these churches look a bit similar and from close up when you can't get a full view and in the dark I can easily forgive myself for not realising while in the cab) I would have been seriously hacked off.

And it was just classic the way the GPS died without warning. Normally I would have just swore, felt a bit vulnerable and swapped in the batteries from my camera, but tonight as I figured I wouldn't need to take photos and I might get mugged on the way to the jazz bar I had left the camera behind for the first time in months. I suppose at least it did give me that initial direction which made all the difference.

But all in all, I'm not loving it here. It wasn't a bad night, although it was overly pricey, but there's just too much shit to deal with. I think, honestly, everywhere in South America I've been and on my previous trips to Mexico, you got a cab off the street and got to where you wanted to go. (Yes, in Mexico the cab drivers would try it on occasionally and overcharge if you weren't clued up. But I bet they at least took you where you wanted to go, although the only times I realised I was being overcharged - prices in advance - I told them no and got another cab.) I guess that would be too simple for Panama.

This eats at the very core of my philosophy. I have always worked on the assumption that as long as I'm not physically at risk, if I am lost all I have to do is get a cab and pay the price and be home. I always make sure I have money for that should it be necessary. A kind of banker's solution to being lost. But this place seems to suggest that won't work, and I don't like that. If you can't rely on a taxi driver to take you home in return for payment, what can you rely on?

Anyway, I have been bashing this crap out for too long and it's 4:15 now. I can't surf (well, I coud reboot the laptop and see, but I suspect they've killed the wifi and I can't be arsed) and I probably shouldn't, so to bed.

Panama City, Thursday night

21:05. This bites. Walked round to the jazz place and it was deserted and had three staff members on the door. I bailed. There are a few wanky looking bars in Av Central between the hostel and the jazz place. (Oh, it was a short but dark two block walk from the hostel to Av Central which wasn't much fun.)

I am down First Arte at a table it the street, drinking a USD2.50 (plus tip of course) 330ml bottle of Balboa. This is shit.

The guide book says the 'joy' of Panama is wandering about and discovering bars, so it lists about four in the entire city. No idea how I'm supposed to know where to wander.

One of the four or so is that jazz place, another is some British style place in the centre. I was going to make do with the bars here but I'm not paying USD2.50 a bottle to be somewhere I don't like if I can possibly do any better. So I think I will have this and try the British bar.

The guide book helpfully suggests bars shut here at 10pm though except Fri/Sat. But it says that for the country as a whole and sort of implies Panama City is not like that but isn't very clear.

It should only cost a few dollars each way in the cab according to the guide book, so I might as well waste my money on cabs as on overpriced beer.

OK, USD2.50 isn't London prices for bottles, but since you have to drink bottles here, you can compare it to London draught lager prices, and I make three quid a pint to be USD2.6, near enough. So yes, I think it's expensive. If I can get a basic but acceptable meal for USD4 as well, that seems crap.

Oh well, let me stop writing this crap, drink this beer (which will take all of two minutes, three if I try to go slow) and pay up and see if I can find a cab driver who knows where 'Avenida 3B Sur' is...

21:50. What a fucking performance.

Cabs with drivers in are like hen's teeth round Casco Viejo. What gives in such a touristy area?

After about five or ten minutes I saw one and hailed it. The driver said he knew the street and it would be USD5. I thought that might be a bit high, but I don't know, and I was hardly in a position to turn him down.

I told him the name of the bar (El Pavo Real). Long story short, he pulled up twice to ask people about the bar and even phoned someone. I am not sure he even knew where the street was. We might have finally reached it, though I am dubious, and some guy on the street had not heard of the place.

He then mentioned bars of Calle Uruguay, which I had an idea were and sounded from his description are like clubs. I had seen 'The Londoner' pub when we first pulled up at Calle 5 B (fuck knows why) so I said I'd pay him 10 and to take me back there. I didn't want to pay him fucking double but after he'd had all this fucking performance and I was feeling a bit uncomfortable I just wanted out.

I am down The Londoner now. It doesn't exactly bite but it's nibbling my ear slightly. Mostly empty of course. Still, it is only USD3 for a probable half litre of exactly the same beer (but on draught).

I saw some other place round the corner, there are quite a few bars here, I will have this and fuck off there.

FUCK. I just saw something scuttling on the floor (I am INSIDE) and thought it was a cockroach. No. It was a fucking big spider. The sort of size you might see in the UK but you would say it was pretty big by UK standards. I just moved tables (it was maybe a metre from my foot, and I have a big hole in my right shoe too...).

Fuck man. I hope this is just a random glitch but that is not an encouraging sight. It worries me about the prospects here. I suppose it could happen anywhere but this is only my second day here (less really) and I don't know what the local fauna is like.

I don't think I have ever seen a spider in a London pub. A mouse once.

Trying to forget that and give some general impressions of the city while I swig heavily at my beer prior to departure...

At the table next to me at the earlier bar were a group of late middle aged Americans. I gather they were ex-pats. "I prefer the rainy season, there are no tourists, I can go on the golf course and not see another golfer."

There are groups of cops riding round the bar-y bit of Casco Viejo in golf cart/airport people shuttle sort of cars. There is a tourist police station down towards Plaza Francia.

As we were driving out of the area, a vaguely A-team style black van pulled out in front of us with about 10 armed police stood *outside* it hanging onto the roof and presumably standing on some sort of narrow footrests on the three rearmost sides.

I guess this is quite cool and shows they are taking possible problems in the area seriously. But it is also a bit odd. Right now I am far more worried about fucking spiders than robbery, HHOS.

I think and gather from the guide book the centre is generally OK. There are lots of people round here so I have no major fear of getting mugged or struggling to get a cab back.

The pavements seem a mixture of nonexistent and blocked by cars, railings and motorbikes on my brief lost sweary wander after getting out of the cab and trying to find this place. I wasn't desperately after a British bar but since that had been the original plan and I had seen this one when we first stopped in the cab I figured I would come here if I could see it.

Oh, I knew from my earlier wanderings there was a kind of taxi rank not far north up Av Central, but some bits of the street were a bit deserted even down in that bar area further south and I didn't like to push my luck wandering up there.

Jesus, I still haven't got over that spider. I don't expect that in a city and I think what really gets to me is that we're inside. Well inside, not just inside a door to a garden. I can sort of handle seeing the buggers outdoors, they aren't "my problem" then as long as we keep our distance from each other. It's indoors that it becomes up close and personal.

And yes, I know indoor and outdoor spiders are largely different varieties. I like the implications of that even less. ;-)

Fuckety fuck fuck. I am overreacting and am exaggerating a little for effect but my skin is crawling slightly when I think about it.

The at least as big ones I saw at Iguazu Falls were not this bad. I was only visiting for the day. And they weren't moving either, even though one was equally close to me.

Maybe I should try to move my flight to Mexico forward by, oh, a week and a half. :-) I hope this doesn't get out of control. It gives me doubts about going to parts of Mexico somehow.

I am just thinking too much about this. Nearly necked the beer so I will finish it off and as long as the bastard doesn't try an ambush as I walk out I will see if I can forget about it. It's 22:10.

22:15. (Not five mins, more like two. But I round the times so as not to appear too anal.) Round the corner at Habib's Lounge Fusion Cafe, complete with Johnnie Walker logo on the sign.

Just got a 330ml bottle of Balboa (without even a glass) which I suspect is going to cost me at least USD2.50. I perhaps stupidly waved the menu away and entered beer negotiations straight away. Another lesson - I really should make a point of not doing that, even if it wastes time.

I am sat on a large and maybe 70% full terrace outside. I have my feet up on the table 'base' (as I did at The Londoner, which to be honest I will probably never go back to because of that, irrational as it may seem - it wasn't that promising anyway, honestly) but I do oddly feel a bit better even though/because I'm outside.

Oh, the taxi driver when describing the Calle Uruguay bars said they had everything - "blah, blah, love, blah". I don't know if this was mostly English or Spanish (I was functioning at 75% efficiency on Spanish comprehension) but he definitely said 'love' in English. And that was what really tipped me definitively away from not going there, though I already wasn't keen. The last thing I want right now is to end up in some wankily pretentious club paying to get in, maybe even ending up in a clip joint, or failing that having lets-say-dancers-as-I-cant-think-of-a-better-word hassling me.

Maybe he just meant there are women there and in principle at least you can pull, but I think he'd have said 'women' if that was what he meant.

I may visit Calle Uruguay for the experience at some point (then again, since I ditched the BA club idea, I may very well not) but if I do it will be after looking up somewhere suitable in my guide book and (after the Pavo Real fiasco - I really do suspect it doesn't exist any more, given the number of people the driver asked and who clearly weren't telling him "yeah, it's down there" only for him to lie to me :-) ) checking on the web. I'm not taking pot luck with the city's clubbing district given my general aversion to clubs and particularly when I don't speak the language.

I haven't touched my beer yet. Why the fuck can't they do draught? I fuckling hate drinking 330ml bottles even if they aren't overpriced, as I strongly suspect these are.

The one consolation is I withdrew a wodge in that shopping area of Av Central post-KFC (the taxi rip off yesterday and my hostel bill this morning swallowed up enough of my airport withdrawal that after hiding a bit away I was far too low for comfort) so unless they are charging USD50 for a beer I can at least meet my liabilities. But to be honest I'm not loving Panama City much so far.

Oh, Casco Viejo is a mix of (presumably) restored colonialish buildings which are gorgeous, and absolute crumbling wrecks, and just about everything in between. The guide book says this is part of the charm and although maybe it's the power of suggestion, I can sort of see it. Nonetheless, during my pre-food foray this morning with my mind coloured by fear, the word 'slum' was a frequent mental visitor. I was exaggerating and I do think the guide book has a point (I read that when I popped back to the hostel to drop my fleece off and reorient myself) but however you view it, the contrast is amazing. It's not as if one block is done up and the next isn't. Pristine buildings can have neighbours with no windows and what looks like half the interior walls down and maybe no roof. I may be exaggerating slighty and that extreme contrast may not be common, but it isn't far off that. I snapped as many photos as I dared to try to show the contrast but I don't think I have a single photo which
shows it really well. Even with my diminished fear I don't feel too comfortable whipping the camera out.

On the note the buses are freaky (in a cool way) but since I've only seen them in the populous shopping area bit so far I didn't like to get the camera out. The guide book hints at it - saying they are called 'red devils' locally - but doesn't really prepare you for them. The sides are basically red, but the front and the front parts of the sides are painted with flames and weird pictures and that kind of thing. Oh, and they are big vaguely school-bus-in-50s-America-in-films-looking things.

No sign of any more spiders yet. I am mentally toying with potentially Poisson interarrival times and wondering what the lamba of the distribution might be. :-)

22:40. Further wafflings. I read a bit of the guide book back at the hostel earlier and it says a cab from the airport for one person should be USD12. But I just don't trust prices in guide books, my 2-3 year old South America guide book (ie about the same age as the Central America one) used to quote prices for hostels that were nothing like what I used to see, and I'm sure I didn't get ripped off that badly (I mean, hostelworld must be pretty reasonable in general).

I also read a bit on the flight yesterday about the US invasion in the 80s (??). I suspect it wasn't totally justified, and the guide book may be biased, but I had to smile at what I read as a sheer exercise of power, at least as it came across in the book. (See, I do have *some* masculine traits, despite eg my arachnophobia. :-) )

As I recall it, Noriega declared war on the US and a day or so later, an off-duty US marine in plain clothes was shot coming out of a bar. About four days later, twenty six thousand US troops with accompanying planes and warships turned up and destroyed large chunks of the city, Noriega eventually holing up in the Vatican embassy. It does seem rather overkill, though as I say I lack context and maybe there wasn't direct cause and effect, but as an example of raw power and "you fucked with the wrong guy" I have to at least grudgingly admire it. Rightly or wrongly I couldn't help grinning when I read it.

On a different but also oddly cheering emotional note, in the cab on the way to the hostel "Si No Te Hubieras Ido" came on the CD player and I immediately broke into a stupid grin, probably just at something familiar in a (slightly) disconcerting environment.

Oh, while stood like a lemon outside the hostel on first leaving this morning waiting for the damn thing to locate satellites so I could record the hostel location (a prudent move as it turned out of course, which is why I do it), I believe I happened to see briefly that I am over 5000km from Buenos Aires (the last waypoint I had navigated to being my Tuesday night hostel there, which is why it showed up with no effort to find out). My memory may be faulty, but I guess that would help to 'explain' the seven hour flight. On the other hand, that's about 3100 miles or about the same, if memory serves, as London-New York, which I believe takes less time. I have five hours floating around in my head. No, that's the time difference. I don't think the flight takes 'zero time' from London to New York (i.e. you leave at London local time X and arrive at NY local time X) so it must be more than five hours flying time. But I have never done it so I don't really know. I guess flying west across
the ocean may well have more favourable winds than flying mostly north probably over land. A minor point of interest to look up should I be bored on re-reading this back in the UK sometime.

I know it is possible to have 'zero flight time' on some routes in an 'ordinary' jet as the Australian guy I met at Oliver's Travels in La Paz told me of one flight he was on which had a slightly 'negative' flight time in that sense. But I don't think it's that common.

If we assume the beer here is USD2.50 a bottle and ignore the fact it costs USD10 round trip (under less wanky circumstances than earlier) to get here, I'd rather drink here than at that small bar back near the hostel. It is not great but it's a lot better.

I am glad I've experienced Casco Viejo living locally, but I think it does feel slightly risky (though, fingers crossed, I expect that to diminish as I get used to it) and the nightlife seems sucky. So if, as I almost certainly will, I stay here past the four nights I will get a hostel or hotel elsewhere.

I am still undecided as to exactly what to do in terms of splitting my time between here and the rest of the country. I need to decide tomorrow really as booking last minute is not ideal in terms of availability.

I am not enamoured of my current hostel as a hostel, but it's acceptable. My not staying in Casco Viejo is nothing to do with that. There might be better hostels (the 'best' one per my guide and some websites may only have dorms, but in any case was booked up for Wednesday by the time I booked) but I don't want to spend any more time in CV. There is a bit more stuff to see there but I can probably squeeze that in before the four nights/three days are up (though I may manage to be on a canal trip this Saturday and tomorrow may find me further afield booking that and then not returning afterwards til lateish) and if not I can cab it over, at least I've had the experience of seeing it 'locally' at night already.

It is far from deserted here but the crowd is thinning a bit. (It's 23:15.)

It may be deemed racist, though I don't think it is (you can't help but be paranoid, but I might as well be honest) but I do feel a little conspicuous being white here, although not so much lately. I think this must be mainly an artefact of my fearful attitude this morning (the guide book having slightly put me on my guard re Casco Viejo). It's not as if I felt so concerned about it in places like Bolivia where the vast majority of the population are equally non-white, or in Mexico where the same probably applies. (Statistically, I know a non-trivial portion of the Mexican population is white - I don't know about Bolivia - and maybe that helped. But I think that's true here too, yet as far as I remember every white person I've seen here has been obviously a tourist/ex-pat - either because they were at the hostel or I heard them speak and could tell they were American.) It's not that I think people are going to be racist towards me, it's just that I think it kind of flags me up as an
obvious tourist (I wonder how I'd feel if I was fluent in Spanish) and hence potential victim. This is why I say I think it probably comes from that first trip out this morning when I was seriously nervy, due to being slightly lost and probably hungry, which probably does affect mental state. (Seriously - I kind of made the connection based on talking with Rab about related issues, but I am 95% certain that when I was in Seville in late 2008 and found myself unable to eat until late, I was getting myself into a right state - a weird combination of anger and depression, at least once I was almost in tears over nothing at all - quite frequently, and eating would resolve it when I finally managed to eat. Something to do with blood sugar maybe. Admittedly I often don't eat til that late in the UK, but maybe there I'm feeling more comfortable and it doesn't affect me the same way.) This is probably a bit incoherent but I hope it will make sense when I look back on these notes.

A waiter just asked me if everything was all right. (Just as an enquiry, I think, in case the previous paragraphs or the spider incident have given the wrong impression, I am as relaxed as I ever get while awake right now.) I wondered if he was hinting to clear off so I asked if they were closing and he said they weren't. I may have one or two more, I don't want to have a really late night but this is hardly excess and beyond trying to book a canal tour I have no concrete plans for tomorrow.

I was musing earlier and I think part of the reason I sometimes feel I'm not making the best use of the trip is the sheer range of 'options' presented by the guide books. I read something once which suggested that up to a certain point people like choice, but beyond that point choice becomes oppressive in some sense. I don't think that makes choice a bad thing, but if it's true it would explain things a bit. I guess I am making choice and really I'm probably doing pretty well, but especially given my tendencies I guess it's easy to look at all that stuff in the book and imagine some hypothetical traveller managing to do everything suggested, either because they're better organised or have more time.

(There is one suggested itinerary at the front of the Central America book which allows you to cover every country in 14 days. But they do at least admit you're pushing it and, at least by implication, going to be rushing around like a blue arsed fly.)

It is a little weird to be using US currency outside the US. Even though, or maybe because, I have never actually been to the US long enough to need to possess any US currency.

I guess at least if I want to or 'need' to, I should be able to dispose of any surplus dollars in Mexico, as a lot of places seemed to take them when I was there before. Probably at a crap exchange rate, but can it be any worse than some exchange bureau? Still, although I have no need to worry about it this early into my two weeks, I will try not to leave the country with a big surplus. And I guess dollars probably command a vaguely fair exchange rate in the UK as there must be more traveller demand for them than (eg) Peruvian soles.

Some people here are smoking what I will probably incorrectly but intelligibly call hookahs.

I must say, though I have thought it nearly everywhere, it's vaguely and irrationally cool to be here in Panama City. Even ten years ago I would never have imagined I would be somewhere like this. Amazing as it may seem, I am easily the best travelled member of my family.

Oh, it hasn't rained (yet) tonight. I vaguely infer from the guide book late April is both slightly after the peak tourist season and the start of the rainy season. But at least we don't seem to be in Rio or Sao Paulo style weather.

I am fully aware I am wafflingly excessively, but I'm sat here on my own (though that's cool, right now I am not in the least bothered about it) and I keep feeling like 'sharing my thoughts' (if only with my future self) so sod it. I'm not drunk, this is only my fourth 330ml beer, and even if I have one or two more it's not going to be a big deal. I have to change my lifestyle when I get back home but for now I guess it's OK.

Not to play any "yeah, I really lived like a native" card (it would be both false and wanky), but I do get the impression most people here are locals. I guess I mainly observe this as some recent blog posts have made me wonder if I have unintentionally sought out pseudo-British (and I loosely include fake Irish bars in that, I guess it's even fair, what could be more English than a fake Irish bar? :-) ) or traveller kind of bars too much. I don't think I have and if I have then it's no big deal, but coming to places like this I can at least delude myself I've seen a certain aspect of the nightlife as experienced by locals.

Big projection TV is showing Fulham vs Hamburger SV on Fox Sports, FWIW.

Oh, I only found out (though at the back of my mind I knew it was Mayish) the date of the UK election from reading The Economist on the flight. I will have to see if I can get this week's edition here to see what their pre-election call is. I suspect it can be obtained here, the place must have a certain US-ish aspect and I gather The Economist is well-read in the US. I tried to find a copy in Montevideo with no luck, incidentally. (Just looking in big newsagents, I didn't ask anyone where I might get one. I found a copy of something like Time or Newsweek somewhere but that was all.)

I even managed to get vaguely interested in the election while reading about it, but ultimately it's all just the same old crap whoever wins. Obviously I had vague emigration thoughts at the inevitable prospect of higher taxes, but of course I could never do it. If nothing else, I suspect I'd always be able to earn far more in the UK than abroad, so while I might pay proportionately less tax I'd still be worse off in absolute terms. Still, I am not ruling out the prospect of a 'working holiday' of six months to a year or two some time if the world economy picks up and it becomes an option. It would be a different view of a foreign country and any salary would beat what I'm earning here in Latin America right now.

Just to finally unburden myself, I could swear that spider earlier had an un-UKishly large body. But surprise and fear may have enhanced the impression and I didn't stop to make a close observation. (Had it been outdoors I may have done, as I did at Iguazu Falls.) But I am not too bothered by it any more, as long as I don't find one like that when I get back to my hostel room tonight. :-)

00:25. Might be about ten people left. I just checked they weren't closing and ordered another, I suspect this will be my last. No big deal.

I guess if I do find myself wandering more centrally after (trying to) book(ing) the canal tour tomorrow I may locate some promising area which I can drink in. I won't want a late one if I do have the canal tour, but it's always cool to try new bars/areas if it's possible.

A cab just went past emblazoned with the name 'Maxi Taxi'. Sigh. :-) I am smirking stupidly all the same. Reminds me of seeing that van in London when I worked at Indicii Salus which gave me my first inkling there was a company called "Beddy Buyz". Which I think is a higher class of pun, but we have to make allowances for foreigners having a poorer sense of humour. :-)

As often happens, I tried to put my seat belt on in the cab, and there was one for once, but there was apparently nowhere to connect it to. I fumbled desperately then noticed the driver wasn't wearing his so just let it go. I do resent being *compelled* to wear one, but I don't mind doing it anyway as it's only sensible. I do wonder how it happens (and this is far from the first time) there can be a seatbelt fitted with no receptacle for the tongue (if that's the right word, I suddenly realise even in English I lack the vocabulary to discuss this confidently, which in some way makes me feel better about some of the gaps in my Spanish) but it's a funny old world and no mistake.

We are down to be about two other people here. I will get the bill and if they start shuffling tables while I finish up I will try not to let it bother me. Thought it will doubtless stop me relaxing anyway.

Not too concerned about getting a cab home as per earlier waffle, but it is obviously a bit of a niggle. I do at least know the area of the hostel slightly now so I can ask for the next door church without being too worried about finding the hostel myself, though I will try to get the driver to take me to the door as some of the nearby streets are rather dead and underlit.

Oh no, there are four people here and I think two just got served. Half regret asking for the bill (USD3/beer and it oddly came to 13.80, I gave 15, I will leave the change anyway in case the 1.80 is a cover charge, which I infer somehow doesn't cover service, and in future will pay more attention, USD3 sucks but it is still better than that first bar) but it is quiet and I'd have felt awkward and better to get home I guess.

(I just opened the wallet they gave me the change back in but the bill has gone so I can't see if that 1.80 was a cover charge or service charge. Sod it, an extra 1.20 is nothing compared to my two shit taxis so far.)

00:55. Well, I am down at 'Starlight Karaoke & Lounge' (sat outside, I did not come here with a view to karaoke and although there is music from inside it doesn't sound like karaoke anyway). I was genuinely going to get a taxi but wandering down the street a few metres a guy shouted at me to offer a taxi and having a certain reluctance to go with a random guy off the street (he may have had an official looking taxi for all I know, but it wasn't immediately apparent and I didn't want to talk to him then have to blow him off) I said no and veered down some side street (not to imply an alley, it's all busy round here) hoping to grab a cab on the street, which I am sure is possible, I found myself outside this place and with the irresistible possibility of another beer. Worst value yet at USD3 for 285ml of Panama (what genius invented that even smaller size?), but sod it, and I took the opportunity to break a 20. The reception at the hostel is 24h (I even confirmed that this morning in p
assing), I am pretty sober (small bottles plus lots of blog waffle do that) and tomorrow night may have to be an early one if I do manage to book a canal tour, so sod it. I am sure the cabs are already on night rates if they exist, and are always on tourist rates, so no big deal.

Oh, and although I don't know the checkout time, Saturday night will have to be fairly restrained as I have to check out Sunday morning. I deliberately booked only up to then as I wasn't sure of my plans or if Casco Viejo would be too scary (I hadn't counted on it being too dull, but it works out the same) so I covered Saturday to give me freedom to do a canal trip if possible without stress and left it at that. Saturday night being 'spoiled' is a bit of a pisser but even if I do stay in Panama City on Sunday night I can't really regret not booking longer at my current hostel. (It may - though it may not - be possible to extend my stay, but I don't want to.)

I may well stay in Panama City on Sunday and onwards, especially given the train plan for Monday, but (perfectly consistent with that) my vague idea is that I should do other parts of the country early-mid next week then finish up my stay here with 3-6 days back in Panama City. I'd rather be here next Friday and the weekend than some random small town, so it makes sense to do my in-country travel during the week. That may not work out as it may lead to me spending too much time here in Panama City, but still. I suppose I could in principle try to extend my hostel til Monday night, but even for just those two nights I'd rather experience living in a different part of the city, even if I will be there for fairly dead nights.

I could obviously plan to do the train thing a week on Monday so as to free myself up ASAP for travel in the country while returning here at the end of my trip. That seems quite sensible but at the same time I don't want to leave it too late in case it doesn't work the first day and I need another. But - and this seems fairly sensible, if a bit of a stress in that I need to decide tomorrow where I'm going on Sunday - I could plan to return to Panama City on Thursday, do the train on Friday and that gives me Monday and Tuesday for "fuck, I couldn't do the train on Friday" issues. That would also have me here a week on Saturday anyway in case I can't get a canal tour for the coming Saturday. It would mean ten nights in total in Panama City if I am back on Thursday night, even though I only spent six in Buenos Aires, but I guess Argentina is both bigger and has more obviously tempting attractions outside the capital.

That seems like a bit of a plan, though of course I don't know where I would go on Sunday. But there's bound to be one or two places I could fit into four days, nowhere in the country is that far.

Cool as it would be, I think Darien is out. Apart from recollections of the F&CO website when I looked back in the UK, the guide book makes it sound very dodgy. So I will resist the temptation to follow in the footsteps of Balboa and gaze with eagle eyes on the Pacific from some peak there.

And in terms of variety the rail trip does effectively take me to Colon for a day trip, even if I very deliberately won't be seeing the town/city.

Yeah, that all sounds like things are falling into place. I may end up in Panama City as long or longer as I spent in Santiago on my multiple visits but that's cool in a way, even if Santiago seems right now a lot more deserving of the time.

When I do leave I fully expect to be accosted by a cab driver with a shout and take it, thus making a mockery of the reason I came here, but there you go.

01:35. Just went to the bog so I had to go inside. There is indeed karaoke on, although it was hardly rammed it was a bit busy. I had not the least desire to stay in, the atmosphere certainly wasn't hostile as such but it was a bit naffly clubbish and at least the song on at the time sounded a bit 'RnB'. Was nicely airconditioned but it's not so bad out here. Have got another beer, I am being ripped off but at least it's with my consent unlike the first taxi.

Yeah, got another beer. Just did the maths and this one makes 4.4 pints. Admittedly probably of 5%-ish stuff. I am a bit surprised I have even this faint sense of drunkenness but I guess I've had time to notice, back in the good old UK with our (hahahaha) 24h drinking I would have drunk this much in a few hours and not been paying attention to how I felt unless it forced itself on my attention.

03:00. Just went for a piss and happened to catch some woman singing "Me Cuesta Tanto Olvidarte" very well so stayed to watch. Came back out afterwards and they said they weren't closing so got another beer. But someone has just collected every other table, sigh. I guess they aren't in a rush as the inside was still moderately busy but this sucks a bit. Still, was cool to hear that song.

They don't relay the karaoke feed outside, it's distinct music. Given it's a karaoke bar I think that's a mistake. But what do I know?

Feeling more sober, either as a result of the slash or my liver working away like a trooper or as a result of penetrating into that zone where you're just drunk enough not to know you're drunk. Maybe all three, but I suspect the latter predominates. Reminds me of that great sketch on "The Armando Ianucci Shows" where a guy discovers this principle. If you drive fast it's dangerous, but at exactly105mph everything becomes supernaturally clear. If you drink too much you get drunk but if you drink exactly 16 cans of lager you enter a world of clarity. The man is a comic genius, even if he hadn't introduce me to one of my favourite stupid jokes, the Mexican fireman.

Just noticed the Londoner is opposite and seems to have outdoor tables on this side and is quite busy. Don't plan to try popping over even if they are still open, but we all know what Robert Burns said...

Trains, Gatun Lock and Colon

I just had a look at the guide book and the train company's web site. There is indeed a train, Colon is indeed dangerous but you're probably OK if you only take taxis between places like the locks (which are about 10km south), the train station and the bus station. Apparently you can buy the ticket at the station, you don't need to book. It is not super clear where their offices are, but I guess I could buy a ticket at the station in advance. Since despite it not being necessary in theory to book, the train leaves at 7:15am. Sigh. On the other hand, although if it happened to be sold out one day it would be annoying to have dragged myself out of bed early, it might be better not to book in advance since there's a big risk of oversleeping. The train only runs Mon-Fri, and I'm clearly not going tomorrow, so I guess I will consider that for Monday (of course, I need to sort out accommodation here before then).

Panama City, Thursday

7pm. Humm.

I actually got up about 10:30am or 11, which wasn't too bad. Earlier on I either woke up (or dreamed I did) and somehow my phone said it was already midday. So the next time I woke up it was all "oh fuck, I've wasted the whole afternoon by now, I can't bring myself to look at the time". And then when I finally did, it was about 7am. So I had two hours in bed even with my vague plan to get up at 9am. Obviously I drowsed on as usual but I guess probably due to the time zone difference I got up relatively early for me.

It sounded like it was pissing it down when I was in bed in the morning, but since I didn't get up to look out of the window I can't be sure. It may just have been me getting confused with the noise from the ceiling fan.

When I paid at reception they told me the room was cheaper than hostelworld.com had said. So I paid them USD64 instead of USD72 or something like that. I didn't ask why, but I might guess this is due to the ensuite thing. So while it is a bit deceptive I guess I shouldn't complain too much.

I went out, fleece tied around my waist, and tried to wander a bit and find something to eat. I was insanely hot and uncomfortable and everything seemed to suck. There also seemed to be far too many people sort of lurking around in the street and it made me feel vulnerable.

After maybe 15 or 30 minutes I gave up, navigated back to the hostel via GPS (I had no map and had got hopelessly turned around), dumped the fleece (which meant shoving the GPS into my already rammed trouser pockets, but I figured that was the lesser of two evils), had another look at the map and went back out.

This time I managed to locate some down at hell pseudo-Chinese restuarant where, not knowing what "miniestra" was (it appeared in a vast majority of the menu items, in the rather odd form of "rice, miniestra, a-named-meat *and other things*" - surely it's never a good sign if a menu says "and other things", although I guess at least they're being honest), I had a moderately portion of chow mein. And maybe that helped, because I stopped feeling like every person on the street was just lurking there waiting to grab my camera if I took it out.

(I just tried and spanistdict.com doesn't know the word "miniestra", nor did my pocket dictionary at the time. But a quick google turns up a few sites which have it on, and one restaurant review in English implies it means "lentils".)

I went to the "Museo De Canal Interoceanico" and ended up being there about three hours. It was quite interesting, although mostly text and nearly all in Spanish, so I spent ages reading it all. I did start giving up towards the end and skimming a lot, partly as I'd just about had enough and partly as it was getting on for 5pm when I suspected they might shut. There was also  (probably temporary) exhibition of a set of photos of Taiwan which were very cool.

After that I wandered round by Plaza de Francia, feeling a bit jittery at first but improving over time. Some quite nice views of the city skyline and of the Bridge of the Americas there. I had a quick look at a jazz bar mentioned in the guide book on the way, it was closed but looks a bit up itself/like a restaurant which happens to have music on.

I then had a wander in the vague hope of finding some restaurant mentioned in the guide book. I went quite a long way north(east) up Av Central, way past the Iglesia de la Merced which the guide book says marks the safe border for tourists. It was essentially a long street rammed with shops and stalls and didn't feel particularly dangerous, though maybe I was naive. No "proper" restaurants, either of the slightly down at hell quality I prefer or pretentious ones. There were loads of local fried chicken and hamburger type places, plus a McDonalds and a KFC. In the end I went to KFC, where I had three (rather small) pieces of chicken and fries. I took advantage of it being a big chain to get change for a twenty.

I then took some cash out and came back here. Since the only bars I know of round here are that jazz bar and one on Av Central which you can't see into from the street apparently called "Lady's", and which has neon signs and a handwritten poster advertising a stripper at 1am on Saturday morning, and I am not going in there for anything, the vague plan is to loiter here at the hostel writing crap like this and surfing til about 9pm, walk down to that jazz bar and see what it's like and if it sucks get a cab to somewhere else in the city which I am supposed to pick out from the guide book now before I go out.

I am not overly optimistic of finding anything decent but we'll have to see.

I still have no idea exactly "how" I am going to get to do a boat tour of the locks. Maybe tomorrow I will splurge for a cab over to that place (if the cab drivers know it) and buy a ticket for Saturday if possible. I did see in the guide book this morning that there are hourly (?) trains from here to Colon taking about an hour each way, which run by the canal and have glass-domed carriages (I must have that wrong, it sounds too Jetsons-like) so you can see the jungle, so I may well have a look into that. It also (I am going from memory here) would provide a convenient way for me to see the Gatun locks, which I gather are very large and somewhere near there (though the maps I saw today in the museum sort of imply it's a bit of a distance). The guide book really lays it on about Colon being dangerous, so if the train plus a taxi provides a convenient way of viewing those locks then that would work nicely.

Actually, if memory serves the train is not hourly, there's one out in the morning and one back in the afternoon. But I guess it's the same principle, the trip to the locks would provide something to fill in the time with.

Thursday 29 April 2010

Panama City, Wednesday

18:25 (Panama). We landed about half an hour llate but could have been worse considering we took off about 45 minutes late.

I am stood in one of the longest immigration lines I have seen, I have been here maybe 5 minutes and it hasn't moved. I may have had something this bad in Mexico once before but this probably takes the cake.

There is clearly no way I am getting in a taxi before dark. Not that I can see the sky, but my phone tells me it is sunset now. Maybe the touts will all have fucked off by the time I get out (I also have to clear customs with my fucking instant coffee, I should throw that damn stuff away). Except for an American couple immediately in front of me everyone else seems Spanish speaking and I have a horrible feeling this may be locals only. There is another channel marked 'residents' but this channel is unmarked. I just have to assume I guess.

We did get some food on the plane so at least I am not starving. I don't know if I will dare venture out of the hostel tonight but I guess I probably will. I have to get there first though.

I am obviously flying too much. I was able to guess before I saw it that the second meal would be a warm ham & cheese sandwich. This one rang the changes with some slightly pickle-like stuff in, but at least no mayonnaise so I ate it.

Oh good, the Americans are NOT MOVING ALONG so I suspect people will start pushing past them and me shortly...

There are two immigration points at 'either end' of the airport. This one has a long snaking line, the other has a long straight line. I only know this as on encountering the long straight one I decided I would have to go to the toilet before queueing and then I thought I'd try the other one as it couldn't be any worse. I don't think there's much in it anyway.

Oh, the American woman went to check on the other line just now and she says it's even longer. I think baggage claim is past immigration, I damn well hope I haven't missed it Most people in the line seem to be with hand luggage only so probably. I hope my bag doesn't get nicked, it is presumably sitting on the carousel already. Or for that matter shoved away as unclaimed.

Cleared immigration at 19:05. Bag was on the carousel and customs was easy, though they asked me if I had a lot of coins in my bag after 'X-ray'. I said yes and that was fine.

Now in a minibus with one other guy for USD25. It is taking me to some church next to the hostel, as per their own directions, so I will have a chance to get mugged while wandering that square no doubt.

Oh, it's warm and muggy. My glasses steamed up the instant I set foot out of the airport.

20:00. Just got to hostel. Taxi/bus was USD25, I had only twenties, driver had no change, hostel guy had no change so I had to give her 40. And the hostel guy says it should have only been 10 in the first place. But what could I do, my guide book (now on (Shoestring guide to Central America by the way) says 15 if memory serves and is two years out of date as least so 25 wasn't totally implausible and then the 25->40 bump was obviously sucky but seemed unavoidable. I guess I could have done lots of things (like bought a token item at an airport shop to break a 20) but I have got away without that until now. I guess it's some combination of nerves and tiredness, the former exacerbated by arriving after dark.

I suppose it's something to be aware of going forward, to use the business vernacular.

Room quite nice (for a hostel, I mean, it's nothing special) but THERE IS A MASSIVE CONVERSATION GOING ON IN SOME COURTYARD ON THE FAR SIDE which the glassless (shuttered, but they are open) window looks out over. So I am going to get doubly hacked off at the noise and feeling like a sad fucker.

Oh well. Oh, it's raining too. So I am doubly dubious about popping out for something to eat/drink.

20:20. Call me an old fuddy duddy but I just went to reception to get the wifi code and it's full of more people hanging around, including one fucking woman sat crosslegged in the passageway.

There's lightning as well. Man this bites. I am not too worried about the area and I don't want to go far, but I think sitting here listening to bleating conversations is going to do my head in. I am not starving by any means but I could eat something, and I could certainly drink something.

BBC web site has only a 5 day forecast and says clear skies tonight. Heavy rain showers for the next four days, which does offer limited hope this is a 'shower' and will stop. But I am not optimistic.

weather.com shows clear for all hourly intervals tonight. So maybe, just maybe, this is merely a localised weather glitch.

I could have a shower and change but as I suspect I will end up getting soaked if I go out, I am not going to 'waste' a change of clothes on tonight.

20:55. I can only go on what I hear, but it sounds like it's pissing it down. I fucking hate being imprisoned by the weather like this. Especially after spending all day in transit.

The only consolation is the group outside my window shut up or moved a while ago. So I now only have the distant hum of voices from reception.

If I had an umbrella I might go out, but I don't. Also I suppose since the sole of my right shoe is half off I will get wet feet walking on any but the driest pavement. The weather here may force me to buy some new shoes but we will see how it goes.

I suppose one 'consolation' is my body clock is two hours ahead of actual time here. So I may be able to go to sleep relatively early, if I can't do any of my wildly unrealistic ideas like EAT SOMETHING or DRINK SOMETHING. I am yawning a bit, although I am not sure I should take that too seriously.

Oh, for the record, it started to rain while I was in the 'taxi' over here. It's 21:30 now and it's still at it. I hope this isn't going to be another Rio or Sao Paulo.

21:50. JFC. I don't know what happened, I think there was just a massive burst of thunder (I jumped) and now loads of alarms are going off. Not 'in' the hostel as far as I can tell.

What is actually most annoying about this weather-imposed isolation is that I have about 300ml of Sprite Zero on me and that has to last me until I leave here tomorrow morning. (I am pretty sure I can't drink the tap water.) It sounds like it's pissing it down so much that even if I knew somewhere just round the corner I couldn't go there, and since I don't have a clue about the area there's no chance.

22:10. I am just so fucked off. It's still raining and it looks like viewing the canal is FUCKING IMPOSSIBLE. To go to the viewing points you change buses about three times, or hire a cab and get it to wait while you are there. The tour company recommended by a friend and the guide book don't give a recognisable street address on their web site, just burble about the 'Nunciatura'. They say you should call to book. Yeah, because I can do that, my mobile work a treat here. And the guide book doesn't give an address but says they are at 'muelle 19' which, if I can find a taxi driver who knows where it is, will cost me USD12 for a return trip just to 'ask' about trips and maybe book, plus another USD12 on the day of the trip.

What a steaming pile of crap. You'd think, I dunno, it would be MADE EASY to GIVE PEOPLE MONEY to see THE MAJOR TOURIST ATTRACTION IN THE COUNTRY. But no, you want to see the fucking thing you have to work at it.

I am not getting off to a good start here. Immigration queue from hell. No food, No alcohol. 200ml (I looked) of non-alcoholic drink to last the next 12 hours. SHIT weather. Ripped off by the taxi driver to the tune of about twenty quid. Now I find that a) whatever I do to see the canal, I will doubtless miss out on something I 'should' have done and b) arranging to see the thing in any way shape or form is about a half day's activity in itself.

Fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck.

I sent a slightly snotty web form submission to the tour company. For all I know Nunciatura is a street after all. But fuck it. Why can't they either take bookings online or have an office (or at least do a deal with some tour agency) in the damn centre?

Oh, and I can't go over there tomorrow direct because I will need to take some more cash out first. So that's yet another taxi trip to a cash machine, since I doubt there are any just here and I am not sure it's safe to walk through the northern bit of the peninsula Casco Viejo is on.

I haven't felt this fucked off since my first night on Easter Island. I think. I do feel fucked off a lot.

22:35. OK, I just popped out to have a look, more to get out of the room than anything, and it is indeed pissing it down. But I noticed a fridge in the corridor so I bought two bottles of beer and three small bottles of water for about USD4/5, the guy got me some change from one of the guys loitering in reception. I feel a bit weak for passing up this 'easy' opportunity to have an alcohol free day but sod it. It's not like I'm going to get pissed.

22:45. One beer down, I am feeling a bit better though still decidedly hacked off. I am feeling a bit time pressured, on the one hand I have 14 days here but on the other I sort of feel it would be good not to spend the whole time in Panama City so, well, I dunno.

Oh, the skyline on the drive over in the taxi was impressive. But not worth an extra twenty quid. :-)

I have a horrible suspicion I was a touch brusque with the reception guy when I bought the drinks. But sod it, I probably wasn't and it's not like I was out and out rude. He hasn't done anything to me so beyond my general hacked offness I suspect I would not act particularly badly towards him.

23:05. Still pissing it down. I suspect nights out here will have to adopt the "pick somewhere and you're stuck with it" model.

23:45. Out front again, still hacked off but I can appreciate that in a better mood this 'tropical storm' would be cool in a way. The lighting silhouettes the famous church opposite dramatically and some of the thunder has that classic 'krakoom' sort of sound. But I am not in a great mood all the same. Maybe it's just been a bad day.

The big thing with the canal trips is I think they only happen on Saturdays, so I kind of need to book ASAP, especially if I want the flexibility to not be in Panama City next Saturday. I guess I just need to be more laid back but I can't help it. I keep mentally comparing myself with some "Urban Spaceman" traveller, I guess. I do suspect most people would be having more fun than I am, but I guess by my own standards I'm not doing too badly overall. Ups and downs and all that.

I guess I will try not to get too worked up tomorrow, have a wander and if I have to be here a week on Saturday then sod it. I need to formulate some rough plan as to how long I will stay here so I can arrange accommodation here or elsewhere ASAP, as I am only booked here for four nights. I did want to see Casco Viejo and I figured the best way to do it was stay here, but for variety of setting and/or different accommodation (either somewhere I might meet people, or somewhere more luxurious) if I do send more than 4 nights in Panama City, which I probably will one way or another, I don't necessarily want to stay at this hostel all the time. I think where you stay has a big influence on where you go out at night, since the ability to wander without having to get a taxi to a specific place is nice/important. (Yeah, you could get a taxi to some street in a promising area and then wander, but it never seems to work like that.)

It is still pissing it down, though I think that was implicit in my earlier storm comments.

It being nearly midnight local time and 2am body clock time, plus the fact I got up at 8am after about six hours sleep suggests I will probably go to bed soon and should manage to get to sleep fairly easily. (I didn't sleep on the plane. I got the drowsy feeling once or twice but it didn't catch. Maybe I fought it slightly, I'm not sure.)

Oh, one of the cars parked outside has Texas number plates, which struck me as a little odd, though obviously you could drive down here from there.

00:05. Was going to have a shower but it turns out there isn't one. I just checked and my booking is indeed for an en-suite room, but there is just a sink and toilet. Clearly their definition of en suite is different from mine, and I rather suspect from everyone else's. I do have a double bed rather than the single I booked so I don't like to say anything, but that is pretty deceptive in my opinion.

I am probably a bit rank so I can't put it off, so that means I will have to fart around with the shared shower tomorrow morning, with all the tedious shit that entails in getting dressed to go to the shower, drying off in there, putting the dirty clothes back on to go back to my room then changing. Not a massive deal but I have enough trouble getting up and out in the mornings anyway. Oh well. An imperfect end to an imperfect day.

Wednesday 28 April 2010

Transit wafflings

Wed, 09:00. Just got picked up. Writing that '09:00' I had a sudden 'fuck, it's too late' feeling. But I think it isn't.

Woken up in part by a knock on the door around 8 but had sort of been drowsing since about 7. Didn't want to get up though OK once I was up. I made a heroic effort to prise myself out of bed when they knocked so as to avoid any risk of going back to sleep.

Didn't realise there was breakfast so although I thought about it I did a brief bit of surfing about 8:30 after finishing up cleaning my teeth etc. On going to wait in the adjacent reception at 8:50 or so I was told I could have breakfast, so I wolfed down a bread roll (which I was still tackling when the taxi turned up) and a small cup of coffee. Better than nothing anyway and I may eat something at the airport if there's time and it's not too insanely expensive.

I believe the flight is seven hours so there will probably be food on the flight, but I never like to count on it being something I'm willing to eat and the portions are usually fairly small anyway.

Traffic seems quite heavy but I guess it will be OK.

Oh, I noticed yesterday but didn't make a note. The room at the hostel had an immensely high ceiling. I actually suspect its longest dimension was its height.

Oh, and despite having that 'quad' room to myself I had to sleep on the lower bunk as I only had sheets for a single bed given to me, so I couldn't use the double. No big deal and I still got more than I paid for.

The taxi driver just got quite upset at some kind of protest or line of quiet kids blocking a street with some cops nearby. If it was a protest it was very quiet. He has a terrible hoarse sort of voice, which doesn't help understanding, especially if he's getting hacked off. I hope he doesn't want to talk to me.

09:15. More protestor people in the road ahead, they are holding hands and have a white banner which (I am reading from behind) appears to say something like 'Cecep'. Provoked a brief word or two from the driver so I made non-commital 'ah' sounds and said half to myself 'ah, mas'.

10:00. Got to airport a few minutes ago. Queueing at checkin now. There are so many touts for luggage wrapping services I am starting to worry that I need my luggage wrapping.

10:20. Well, I am checked in. The check in desk woman was far too interested in my later flight from Panama City-Mexico City (also with Copa) to my mind, she said she needed to know when I was returning or something. (We started in Spanish, she asked if that was OK and I said it was. I kind of wish I hadn't given this weird Mexico crap turned up) But sufficient unto the day, I have my boarding pass for the flight to Panama.

10:30. Well this bites. My boarding pass says 'gate *A*'. There are signs for gates 1-16. Are we on hexadecimal here? They checked the boarding pass when I came thru to security but I am far from sure I am in the right place. The security line is enormous although it is suddenly shifting fast. The airline are making this massive deal about 11am boarding, the checkin desk showed 11:10 'time limit' rather than the flight time of 12:10. I know full well we are going to be sat in the terminal til nearly departure time so why all this damn stress?

11:10. At the gate. Gate A and B signs seem to start appearing on the far side of security, mostly but not always as though they've been stickered on rather than properly printed on the signs.

Splashed out ARS45 on a copy of The Economist at a kiosk and (after an epic struggle to get my crisp, clean note accepted) ARS5 on a small bottle of Sprite Zero from a vending machine. Not had time to get any food, never mind.

I happen to note in the brief news items in The Economist that the Uruguayan cellulose factory on the border river with Argentina, which my guide book mentions, has been allowed to continue to operate by the International Court of Justice. Only interesting because I'd seen that bit in the guide book, but still.

11:30. Just got on a bus to go to the plane. They are boarding rows 15-20 something first, I assume this means there will be two buses otherwise it seems a bit silly allowing people out of the gate based on row number.

11:40. Just got seated. A woman on the bus had a hat with a slogan (in Spanish) saying "Colombia: the risk is that you'll want to stay". I guess this is a part of the same campaign someone told me they had seen an ad for on Argentinian TV, showing people enjoying themselves and ending with this or a similar slogan.

I will send this now just on the offchance the plane crashes. If I don't live, I love you all. If I do, you're still a bunch of miserable gits. :-)

Only joking of course, I am not particularly nervous about this flight. (I am a tiny bit nervous about the other end still...) It's just that the idea of sending this before take off made me think about that kind of thing. As when I got the Sao Paulo-Rio flight.

Anyway, further wafflings from Panama, fingers crossed...

One night in Buenos Aires

Tue, 20:00. The editor was groaning under the size of the previous post so I'm sending it and starting a new one. Technology is not supposed to tell me I ramble too much, that should be reserved for friends... :-)

I was quite enjoying myself just surfing in the hostel room but as I just have this one night here I figured I ought to go out. It's not great at Kilkenny or any of the bars on Reconquista, but the only possibly better place I know is Palermo and I don't want to be faffing around with taxis tonight, and I also want to reduce the temptation to stay out too late. I have to be up in time for the taxi picking me up at 9am and I don't have a proper alarm.

This is my last night in the southern hemisphere. :-)

It occurs to me I have clocked up a large number of crossings of the Argentinian border. Including tomorrow, it will be:
- flight in from Santiago
- flight out to Panama City
- land border both ways to go to Perito Moreno
- land border both ways to Paraguay
- land border both ways to Urugay.
So that's 2 air crossings and 6 land. I think only Chile might come close:
- flight in from Sao Paulo
- flight out to Buenos Aires
- land border both ways on Perito Moreno day trip
- land border out into Bolivia
- land border in from Peru
which is 2 air and 4 land. So yes, I think Argentina will take the trip record. Everywhere else is or probably will be one in and one out.

I just may end up crossing into (say) Guatemala from Mexico or Panama, especially the latter if two weeks seems too long for Panama (although I suspect it won't be). (Maybe Guatemala doesn't have a land border with Panama, I have an idea it does but I'm not so familiar with the central American map.)

I have loads of spare cash. I have ARS100+ in my wallet and I don't have any expenses left except drinks and food (probably not today, just maybe a snack at the airport tomorrow). I also have ARS100 or 200 in my hidden belt. So it should work out nicely, I won't be left with too much 'useless' cash.

I ended up with a UYU200 note and a small amount of change, so that worked out well too, though I think I did have to make a smallish withdrawal the other day but it couldn't be helped.

Oh, I did look up the Mexican and Panamanian exchange rates. Turns out Panama does use balboas but they are (and always have been?) pegged to the dollar at parity and in practice all notes are US notes, only coins are denominated in balboas.

Mexican pesos run about 18.5 to the pound, which is not too bad, I remember it being *approximately* 20 when I was there before, and it may well have really been about the same as it is now in practice.

Oh, the taxi driver was slightly disconcerted at me paying the ARS40 fare with a 100 note. He was genuinely OK about it, but come on, it's hardly unreasonable. I told him I'd just come from Uruguay and he asked if I had Uruguayan cash, but since I only had 100 it was no good. (Probably for the best. My mental arithmetic is not up to generating ARS/UYU from ARS/GBP and UYU/GBP on the spur of the moment and I don't remember the rate I saw at the exchange place at the port earlier. So I would have suspected I was being ripped off. I had this a bit buying a bottle of drink at the bus terminal in Ciudad del Este paying with Brazilian cash, but I didn't care there as I knew I wasn't paying that much, I was desperate and the Brazilian cash was just 'padding' for my wallet and sort of a souvenir.) In the end he made change OK. I would have offered to pop out and buy something at the kiosk we were next to if push came to shove, though in hindsight the idea of leaving my suitcase in the boot w
ould have sucked. But I guess nearly everyone would prefer a small, no quibble, honest payment to a suitcase full of random junk which is worth more to replace but probably has negligible resale value.

I just got another pint. I half feel I should go have a drink at one of the bars with tables outside in this street (Stone Roses playing now BTW) but it is perhaps a bit nippy, though I was fine walking over. I will have this and perhaps one more then maybe go and have a last beer in the street. On the other hand, I should stop worrying about what I "should" do and just do what I want.

Oh, especially since I said nice things about the guy at reception (who I gather is Dutch, though I wouldn't have guessed from his accent, he sounded 'English but not sure where from' to me), I am staying at El Sol Hostel.

20:54. Just got a (very expensive, though I knew that before I ordered) Guinness (ARS39 vs 14 for Heineken). Figured it might be cool to have at least one on the continent. Reminds me that Kevin told me when we met in Puerto Iguazu he had come down here for St Patrick's Day (he had told me BA was his plan when we were in La Paz) and he said it was a bit crap. :-) The night, not the Guinness, on which he made no comment. :-)

I stopped drinking Guinness regularly when they switched to the extra cold everywhere, so I am far from a good judge, but it seems OK at least. I do always seem to neck the stuff far too quickly, I will have to try to exercise a little restraint tonight at least.

Oh, further to my arbitrary whinge the other day, the 'stained glass' skylight here has that Johnnie Walker logo on...

On the subject of my earlier 'hand luggage only' wafflings, it occurs to me that even the most minimal packing is likely to result in a fairly chunky bit of hand luggage and run the risk of some airline refusing to allow it as cabin baggage. In which case you would have to check it in and run the risk of a baggage handling error leaving you with only the stuff on your person. So you'd be prudent to ensure you had adequate financial resources (cash or cards) on your person. And this might be a good reason to adopt a 'compact but not solely hand baggage' style of packing. It almost inclines me to think the suitcase+small rucksack approach I am using now (the rucksack being the sort of thing you might use around London, and acting as my hand baggage) being almost ideal, except with a much smaller suitcase. But then, it would suck a bit to have two items, using the 'comfortably put it on your knee on a bus' test. (And for that matter, the 'get onto the bus and pay the driver while manipu
lating your luggage' test.) Maybe the suitcase could be mostly empty and you could squeeze the rucksack into it when not forced to separate yourself from your baggage.

Playing around with my phone, I see it has been four months nine days since my last day working for CS (though I actually finished a bit earlier, of course). It occurs to me to see how many days I've been travelling... Taking 13th Jan, the day I flew out of London as the start point (and thus not counted in the reckoning, since it's date subtraction) I have apparently been travelling for three months and 14 days, or in other words this is day 104 with day 1 being the day I landed in Sao Paulo.

It's moderately busy here now. Far from rammed but there are quite a few people. I feel a bit of a loner sitting here if I think about it, but generally I'm not that bothered. It's been a while (probably Asuncion was the last time) since I had a 'proper' social chat, but there have been one or two little encounters here and there and I guess I'm still well within my zone of tolerance, it's not like when I had that major 'drought' earlier. I doubt I'd have even thought about it now had I not felt I should observe it's got busier than it was when I got here.

22:00. Just got a fourth pint. I find myself oddly meditating on the idea of doing psychometric readings for charity at a psychic fair, which I believe occurred to me on a more drunken night earlier and was blogged about accordingly. It scares me a bit, especially the possible legal aspects, and I don't know how easy it is to get a charity to give you a collection box (although logically it should be easy, first rule of 'business' is to make it easy for people to give you money). I think with a little study I could pull it off as I have before for far less self-selectedly credulous audiences and it would be a cool thing to do, though the prospect of failure scares me, even though it wouldn't really matter. I suppose in part it would depend on how much a stall costs. Fifty or even a hundred quid (given I'm not planning on recouping my costs, all proceeds to charity, genuinely) might be acceptable for the experience, but given how much some of those guys might be on the make I guess it
could be more. I guess it's just something to bear in mind once I am back in the UK and have got myself settled.

(I suspect in part this has been stimulated by my flitting away from the Mexico book, and indeed one or two others, on my phone to a re-reading of Godwin's (?) "Lives of the Necromancers".)

22:35. Just got another and almost certainly last beer. Consulting my anal-retentive records, I see this is actually my sixth pint tonight not my fifth as I thought. Maybe I made a mistake in my bookkeeping but I suspect it was correct. I have lost my little niche by the stairs to a group of three women but no problem, there was another nearby, it isn't *that* busy.

Continue to meditate on the psychometric reading idea. I really need to stop thinking about stuff and start doing it, this might be a good start once I am established back in London. If not for the possible legal implications I would say I am definitely going to do it. I have visions of myself up before a magistrate showing I made no profit from it and still getting a conviction, albeit with a token sentence. On the other hand, it's unlikely (if psychic fairs are permitted, you can hardly blame people who participate) and while I don't exactly relish trying to tell future clients or employers I have a non-motoring office on my criminal record, I am a bit sick of being Mr Clean. ;-) The wages of sin might be death, but the wages of purity don't seem to be that great either. ;-)

I am sure I could do it. Right now at this instant I couldn't, but minimal study seemed to satisfy my random audiences before, so a bit of study plus believers ought to equate to success and ideally a few hundred quid in the coffers of (say) the RSCPA. If I can at least escape total scorn at the hands of random women in bars, believers should be a lead pipe cinch. If I don't take their money it will only go into the pockets of genuine charlatans (is that a contradiction in terms?).

I now have visions of this blog post being entered as evidence. Almost another reason to do it, I am sick of being so fucking paranoid. Say what you like about my morals in the psychometric area, I at least have generally good intentions and have no idea of financial gain.

I shall probably navigate back at least in part via GPS. I got a bit lost coming over here, nominally simple as it was. I could of course take a taxi but I see no need and the walk will do me good, as long as I have confidence I am walking in the right direction.

23:05. I suspect it's not wise but I just got another beer. I hope this isn't going to be a larger scale version of missing my first trip to Perito Moreno... This will almost certainly be the last, I just wish I had a proper alarm clock.

As blogged about on my previous visit here the condom machine vends at one peso, or about 20p. I couldn't resist feeding it a peso the last time I went to the bog, I received a little carboard package which looks distressingly unhygienic. Maybe I will use it when I'm back in the UK. :-) There must be an acknowledged fetish for 'sex with foreign condoms', or rule 42 doesn't really exist. :-)

I had to extract an ARS100 note from my hidden belt while in the bog to get this beer. But I did have 200 in there as it turns out and in a certain irrational sense spending foreign currency when I'm about to leave that country for the forseeable future almost equates to 'beers cost nothing'. At this rate I have not much shy of ARS200 (given that beer was only 14) for any emergencies tomorrow, plus of course if push comes to shove there's always a cash machine given I am safely in a city, unlike the 'Concordia experience'.

I am sure I can get 'Panamanian' cash at the airport in Panama City, but if not my USD travellers cheques will be far more acceptable than in most places. I guess Mexico is also dollar-oriented to a lesser extent. While it seems a bit sucky I should maybe try to use the travellers cheques up over the next two months rather than be stuck with them for years or take the hit of changing them back to pounds. Yet since they are there as an emergency measure I don't like to try and use them up in Panama since I still have further travel to go.

I must also say I imagine nearly everywhere being a bit sniffy about accepting travellers cheques. Though I guess the vendors thereof don't like that, and so I might hope at least in Panama I could, if I wanted, dispose of some without too much effort, especially given the lack of currency conversion issues.

I guess I could hang on to them for emergency use on a future trip, but then I'm a victim of inflation. On the other hand, while the dollar ain't what it was, it may be better holding dollars at zero interest than pounds which rapidly decline in value. :-) And of course the fees involved in buying the travellers cheques are a one off, so to a certain extent holding on to them saves that expense on a subsequent trip.

Incidentally, while not quite rammed yet, it is pretty busy here now. Had I not already secured my little niche, I might struggle to find one. But I do think I'd get a seat somewhere, I did on occasions when it was much busier.

23:35. Just left, leaving probably a bit under half a pint. I am not that pissed - I have no focussing issues right now :-) - but wasn't feeling it. Getting a bit busy, but sod it. You bunch of losers, I'm off to be mugged in Panama tomorrow. :-) Bit dubious about the walk home in terms of tedium as my earlier timings suggest I may be half an hour away, but it's cool. I do get a certain kick from the idea of little Stevey Flintham walking the streets of South America without worrying about it. :-)

GPS says I am 1.5km from the hostel. That's manageable and at least thanks to it I know I won't get lost in the minor maze of streets round here. I am sure I could walk home without it, but I am not one to sneer at any possible simplification.

Incidentally, checking a street sign on the way home (I like to use my intellect despite GPS), I note, as I have probably blogged before, the street signs are sponsored. So I have just crossed "American Express Florida". Weird.

00:10. Just got back. Minor hiccups. Due to random chat with door staff suspect I am being knocked up at 8:15, a bit early. Sadly my room has a balcony so I am out here listening to Half Man Half Biscuit. Balconies have this weird draw and I suspect this will impede me going to bed. The view is just over the street but man, it's a balcony. :-)

01:20. Finally dragged myself off the balcony. Fingers crossed for getting up in time but hey, they are knocking on my door at 8ish. :-) To bed...

Colonia and Buenos Aires

Tue, 11:25. Wandering round a bit aimlessly. Got up OK and checked out just about on time, left the bags at the hostel.

Oh, Montevideo and Colonia del Sacramento photos are now uploaded

Seen a couple of posters for some event at 'Club Plaza', so presumably there is more than one club here. As seems to be conventional (I saw the same re "Club Aleman" in Santa Fe, if memory serves), the designer of the poster felt so confident everyone would know the club they haven't bothered to put an address on. Obviously I couldn't go here now even if I wanted to, but Club Aleman in Santa Fe maybe did miss out on my valuable custom as a result.

(To be scrupulously fair to Club Plaza, there is a phone number But still...)

14:15. Had lunch at a small restaurant I hadn't been to before and had a beer at Mercosur, have now picked my bags up from hostel and walked over to the port. There doesn't appear to be anyone at the 'seacat colonia' check in desks, I guess I am an hour and a half 'early' (of course not quite that much, I am sure you are expected to be here a bit before departure, half an hour if I recall and understood correctly what the woman at the ticket office said when I booked). But I want to give myself as much time as possible, especially in case (though it should all be fine) I have problems finding or dealing with border control. (What to call that? Border control doesn't quite sound right, and even less so in Spanish. But it's not 'immigration' when I leave a country and it's not 'customs' even on entering really. There is a Spanish/English sign pointing to 'Migracion/Migrations' which may answer the question in Spanish, though the English translation seems clunky and unnatural to me.

I just confirmed via a quick calculation with the rates shown at the exchange desk that it is, as I thought I remembered, about 5 or 6 ARS to the pound. I have about 600 or 700 on me which I hope will be enough for two taxi rides and the hostel tonight.

Note to self for next time, if there is one - it would be a good idea to take a snapshot of the approximate exchange rate for any country I might visit (hell, do the entire continent if it's easy) just to avoid that "so exactly how much cash should I withdraw now I have got to the airport in this unknown country?" uncertainty.

In the shorter term, I should look up the Panamanian and Mexican exchange rates tonight if I can get web access. Hell, I should find out what the Panamanian currency is called too. I have an idea they might use balboas, but I also have an idea that might be a former currency rather than a current one.

Oh, purely for completeness, the unmanned ticket window here is labelled 'coloniaexpress'. What I have been calling 'seacat' does appear to actually be called 'seacatcolonia'.

14:40. Just checked in and they've taken my suitcase, 'migrations' isn't open yet though.

I find myself musing on the possibility of doing a trip like this with hand luggage only. Not so much that checking in and collecting my suitcase (or backpack, were I to go down that route - the distinction isn't really important here) on buses, boats or planes is a big deal. Where it is a nuisance is in getting from ports/terminals to hostels and vice versa. Even with a taxi it sucks a bit, and it would often be cheaper and almost easier to take buses in some cases, except that with a suitcase it's a damn nuisance.

There would also be a sort of pleasing simplicity in undertaking a longish trip with just hand luggage. I have a vague suspicion there are people who do this, I think I read an article about them somewhere.

If I ever take a week or two off somewhere maybe I should experiment. As I am bored and the idea interests me I shall waffle randomly about it here now.

I think it would be difficult for me, I have a lot of electronic gadgets which I wouldn't want to give up. I suppose some could be accommodated in jacket pockets during travel and offloaded in hostel rooms while in a place. (Security might be an issue in a hostel if you were ever sharing a room though, unless there were lockers.)

I think for anything longish term I would really want at least:
- netbook and battery charger
- phone and battery charger
- camera and battery charger
- MP3 player and in-ear headphones (charges from laptop via short cable)

I suppose in principle you could decide to run the camera off alkaline AAs bought as necessary, but my AA battery charger is very compact anyway.

In terms of the electronics I have with me, that omits:
- GPS (AA rechargeables, so no extra battery charger needed)
- handheld slimline video camera and charger
- spare phone and charger
- QuietComfort 2 headphones (bulky and probably an excessive luxury if you were trying to save space)
- electric razor and charger
- electronic book

The damn chargers don't help. I understand there are moves afoot to force standardisation of mobile chargers, but I am not sure if there's any hope even within the next five or ten years of all 'small' equipment being able to share a single charger.

Some sort of razor is a necessity and I hate shaving with disposables. I don't like shaving with wet razors full stop, and since you're talking hand luggage only here it wouldn't be possible to travel with a non-disposable wet razor anyway due to airport security restrictions.

I guess you could get a cheap AA-powered battery electric razor and then you get to share the battery charger already needed for the camera.

The GPS is probably also worth taking, it is slightly bulky but does fit in a jacket pocket and I personally find it a very comforting gadget at times. It also acts as a satnav for the beer scooter when necessary. :-)

The QC2 are nice but I am not desperately missing mine now they've broken (they may be repairable but I don't have a clue how to open them and it would probably be a soldering job, so I am currently just carting them round as dead weight until I am back in the UK and can take a look). So they could go and be no big loss.

The handheld video camera itself is pretty slimline. The charger is not enormous but somehow makes the combination seem a bit excessive if you're on a tight space budget. (I suppose weight is technically an issue, but it's really about space. Unless I start lugging lead or gold around, I can't imagine anything hand luggage sized being too heavy.) Especially when any digital still camera will take passable if not great video, mine is about four of five years old and the video's not bad, and I assume newer cameras are better.

The spare phone and charger is definitely overkill. I am not absolutely sure why I brought them this time, although I think I was worried because my Treo is getting a bit ropey, especially for voice use, and I envisioned myself wanting to call hostels from the middle of nowhere to confirm reservations. As it happens my SIM renders voice calls nearly impossible (though I could, as I originally planned, have bought local SIMs cheaply if I wanted) and I haven't suffered much as a result.

I haven't used the electronic book much and the screen is starting to go under the strain of travel, as blogged about earlier. So I think that would be an easily dispensed with luxury. I do most of my reading on my phone.

You obviously couldn't have many, or even any, physical books. In terms of entertainment I have long since stopped reading the two or three novels I have with me. I think books on the phone, perhaps combined with hostel book exchanges for a bit of variety, are adequate. As I say, I am virtually subsisting on Project Gutenberg as it is.

Travel guides are a bit different but as also probably blogged about, I think despite the slight rip off pricing, PDF versions of guide books on the laptop would be nearly as good as dead tree books. I seldom take a physical guide book out with me, and given a PDF I could print a few pages in a net cafe and stick them in my pocket. So electronic guide books might actually be more useful.

I think at least one piece of dead tree reading material would be nice for situations where the phone battery dies or you're not allowed to use it (e.g. certain times on flights). Ideally a slim novel which I'd be willing to book exchange later on.

15:05. 'Migrations' is open...

15:15. In the 'sea-side' (no pun intended) bit. I thought they were a bit staff and stamp happy at 'migrations' but I then twigged it was a joint post. So I already have an entrance stamp for Argentina. My guide book did say 'immigration is at the port', but while this somehow suggested this possibility it is also rather vague about which port.

Anyway, back to my minimal travelling wafflings.

You obviously need a toothbrush and similar things though they aren't enormously bulky. You'd have to keep suntan lotion and insect repellent to below the stupid 100ml hand luggage restrictions anyway. I'd have to curb my desire to bring enormous quantities of medication; I guess some aspirin, paracetamol and/or ibuprofen would help until you got to a pharmacy, and I think a few days' diahorrea tablets wouldn't hurt. A few plasters and the like too.

Ooh, it occurs to me you couldn't take any nail scissors if you really were pure hand luggage. I don't like nail clippers but I wonder if they are permitted as cabin baggage anyway. I suppose if push came to shove you'd have to buy these and throw them away as required. Or I suppose you could perhaps get by with just disposable nail files, I suspect it would be slightly tedious but you could probably manage to file your nails down without having to cut them. That is a bit desperate though.

To a certain extent this hypothetical travelling very light is trading cash for convenience anyway. Luggage generally has zero additional cost to transport, and by not having any you incur extra expenses. I haven't got there yet, but I think clothes might be another example of an extra cost to this strategy.

If you're ever staying in a shared hostel room, you do kind of need a towel. Of course, it's good to have one just for Hitchhiker credibility. :-) Hotels and private hostel rooms tend to come with towels, though the latter is a bit uncertain in my limited experience.

15:25. On board. I got a window seat (as far as I know, they have amazingly resisted the temptation to preallocate) for what it might be worth. I don't think there's much scope for wandering 'outside' during the trip but we shall see.

Back to waffling. I think if you assume a trip like the one I'm currently on, not one where you spend days away from ho(s)tels and need camping gear and the like (that either kills this idea dead or you must be sure you can rent what you need or it's supplied by some tour company), I think you could get away with a very small towel, maybe one just a bit bigger than a flannel. That gives you something to dry your hands on after washing and in a pinch to get mostly dry after a shower. You might want two such so one can be washed while the other is in use, but you could probably use dirty clothes as a towel if push came to shove. Depends how many clothes you have of course, which I still haven't got round to, you might have all your dirty ones at the laundry (or drying after being hand-washed) at the same time as the towel.

In terms of backing up/freeing memory card space for photos, I think I've already realised that the smart thing to do regardless of 'minimal luggage' goals is to keep copies on a big USB stick (64GB or so) worn as a pendant round your neck and have DVDs burned only to post home as an extra copy. So that's not an issue here.

You'd have to be ruthless about not accumulating random crap - I have a big A4 wallet bulging with random leaflets, maps and receipts. It's not a big deal travelling as I am, but you couldn't accept the space if you were going minimal. I suppose if you really decided such stuff had souvenir value you could post it home intermittently (it might act as extra padding for the DVDs :-) ).

You do need space for at least say a litre bottle of water. We're not talking 'long hikes' here, even on a bus trip you're going to want to have water handy. You could say "I'll just buy bottles as I need them and carry them 'outside' my luggage" and that might be a good idea (a litre bottle is quite bulky if you're going minimal) but then you are a bit encumbered by having both hands occupied. I suppose if the bag had some sort of strap you could use to stick the bottle in temporarily that would be best.

Disposable contact lenses would be out, unless you maybe took a very small quantity for special occasions. I'd either have to stick to glasses or get non-disposable lenses, which bring their own hassles in terms of cleaning supplies (especially given the 100ml limit). Since I wear contacts in part (though nowhere near as much as I'd thought I would) so I can wear my non-prescription sunglasses, if I was going to do this I should get some prescription sunglasses. I guess if I try this on a short trip as an experiment it isn't a problem to take disposables.

I know I am avoiding the subject of clothes, I am just mentally reviewing my luggage now to think what else is in there. Apart from being bored, one reason I am thinking about this now is that at least now I am familiar with what I use and don't use while travelling, in a way I won't be if I muse on this back in the UK after a few months.

15:50. We're on our way. We just had a safety briefing which was so quiet I could scarcely hear the Spanish and shown on a screen so small and remote from me I had no chance of reading the English subtitles. So we had better not have an accident...

I might as well note that the 'minimal luggage' plan does admit of variations. While it would be coolest and slightly more convenient to go 'hand luggage only', the real goal in terms of convenience is for the luggage to be small and light enough that you can manhandle it easily while out and about. For example, you can sit on a bus with it on your knee without feeling too uncomfortable. So it would be possible to go for something slightly bulkier than hand luggage, either a small suitcase or a less-than-full-sized backpack.

Oooh joy, some baby is crying about six rows ahead of me. The one consolation is it's not really *screaming*.

It's a bit contrary to the spirit of minimalism but space permitting a second bag that could be squashed up when not in use would be helpful. Either as an overflow if absolutely necessary, or so you could use it to lock stuff up in to leave behind at a ho(s)tel to lighten the main bag if desired. (While ideally the single item of luggage, especially if some kind of bag rather than suitcase, would be small enough to just take everywhere, I am thinking of things like the walk across Isla del Sol and the flight with very tight luggage restrictions to Puerto Williams. In at least the former case, everything you can leave behind to lower the weight helps, and you can't leave anything behind if you don't have a bag to leave it in.)

I brought a mosquito net with me which I haven't used yet. I am not sure but it may be a little bit of a bulky (if not particularly heavy) luxury even on this trip with a suitcase and it would probably be more so on a minimal luggage trip. It is nice to have it, but I guess you would just have to see what was likely to be necessary. If push came to shove I assume you could always buy one locally if absolutely necessary.

Clothes obviously depend a bit on when and where you go. Down in southern Chile I was often wearing a T-shirt, long-sleeved shirt, fleece and then a thinnish jacket on top all at once. For the warmer parts, e.g. for about as long as I can conveniently remember, I have been wearing a pair of jeans or trousers, a short-sleeved shirt or T-shirt and a fleece. The fleece could be replaced by the thinnish jacket, but I seem to have adopted it in preference lately as it has capacious and zippable pockets and is more convenient to wear 'round my waist (tied by the sleeves)'' if it's too hot to wear it.

If I knew I was only going to be in climates like this or warmer (and there is always the option to buy clothes locally, although 'warm' clothes are likely to be relatively pricey and where would you stash them afterwards if you didn't throw them away?), I think I might be able to get away with say:
- a pair of jeans, a pair of trousers (one to wear while washing the other, having some trousers gives you a chance to dress 'smartly' if desired)
- three sets of underwear (two probably isn't enough given you want to wash this every day if possible and it takes a while to dry)
- three T-shirts/short-sleeved shirts (similar considerations to underwear)
- fleece

One set of clothes is always going to be worn when you're on the move and could say the fleece is too, so you 'only' need to have space in the bag for a pair of trousers, two sets of underwear and two T-shirts/short-sleeved shirts.

You are trading off convenience of travel for convenience of 'being somewhere' here. Having more clothes means you don't continually have to be washing them (which is especially awkward if you don't have a private bathroom, although at least some hostels have clothes lines, not that I have ever used one) or find laundrettes. I must be honest and say I am often wearing e.g. T-shirts more than once between washing even given my relatively large supply of clothes, just to minimise the washing/laundrette hassle. It isn't about the money - my spending on accommodation dwarfs what I am spending on laundry - it is just about the hassle. Plus if you are somewhere only two nights, it gets a bit risky handing in laundry in terms of getting it back before you go.

I think I've run out of speculation. It might be interesting to assemble this 'minimal subset' later (e.g. when I come to unpack back in the UK) and see just how bulky or heavy it really is. At the very least I guess this might prove helpful in reducing the weight of my luggage next time even if I don't adopt an explicit goal of minimality. (Though I think the books are and already were the obvious low hanging fruit there. But it is perhaps useful to observe from experience that electronic travel guides would perhaps be better than paper ones and that there is very limited value in having three or four paper novels rather than just one - I get bored of them almost as quickly and then they're just dead weight. If I can remember this it might help me be strong and avoid going crazy on the books next time.)

I also think adopting any level of 'reduction' is largely a matter of confidence. While I have noted before I've used 'most' of what I've brought with me, I suspect it wouldn't have been such a big deal not to have had some of the stuff. But when I'm packing back home there is always this sort of anxiety that "What if I need that? Wouldn't it be *terrible* if I needed it and didn't have it?" That's the kind of habit that probably needs breaking. I guess telling yourself that "sod it, I won't need anything I haven't take *that* urgently and I can buy it there if I really need it" should help. I think I do say that to myself a bit, but I'm too tight to want to have it come to that. ;-)

I think I read somewhere you can easily carry about 20% of your body weight. If that's right I should 'only' have about 14-15kg of luggage for it to be convenient to handle, whereas my suitcase weighs around 22-23kg even without considering the small backpack (which mostly has electronic gear in). I think that might be a good intermediate target between going so minimal you are travelling just with hand luggage and my current slightly bloated situation, if going minimal is too difficult or seems a bit risky. It would be cool to try to do a trip of say a week with just hand luggage though, if only for the experience.

I guess in a way I will be forced to do some mini-trips where I can experiment in this area when I get back, since until I find a new flat and move into it (or decide I can't wait and get a furnished short-term let), I will be 'commuting' back and forth between Skegness and London and staying in cheap hotels in London for a few days at a time. Treating this as an experiment in minimalist travel might allow me to avoid getting so worked up about the discomfort and inconvenience :-) and may actually reduce them (no using the tube with a suitcase, for example).

16:45. We haven't stopped moving yet but we have arrived. Quite a nice skyline although the sun is making it impossible to get a decent photo.

17:35. No problem getting taxi, just finished check in. Guy at desk very helpful, I have pre-booked a remise to the airport at 9am tomorrow and he has given me a double bed+bunk bed room with private bathroom when I booked for a twin to myself with shared bathroom.

Two guests sat in reception with laptops, one young woman wearing headphones and beating out a rhythm quite loudly on her knees all the time. I can't help think that is a little bit twattish, in the hostel reception. Oh well.

19:45. Came out about 7:15ish, decided I'd walk over to Reconquista and am down at The Kilkenny. It's quite dead but I didn't expect much. Since this is just a 'transit' sort of night I figured it would be nice to just come somewhere I sort of know.