Bogota-Buenos Aires

0757 In hotel reception. Woke up about 5am, irrationally bit panicked, only had bit of water so decided to put a water purifying tablet in bottle of water in case wanted a big drink later when no time. Bottle wouldn't fit in sink so had to fill from shower.

Did get back to sleep despite distubing (because they had a "WTF?" quality) noises from (I infer) adjacent room's bathroom. Woke on alarm 0740 but stupidly deliberately stayed in bed til next and final alarm 0745. Hasty dressing and teeth cleaning and checking round later am down here in reception I believe with everything. Not feeling 100% but I never do in morning and can hopefully rest on flight.

0800 Receptionist just give me bit of paper with number plate and 'clave' (read about this in guide book, tho this is 3 digits not 2) for taxi. Said I can wait here in reception and it will be here in about 5 minutes. I do wonder if she only just called to book it when I got down here, maybe not - don't recall hearing her call but then I was bashing out the above and not paying attention.

Said it would be 20kish or tiny bit more. We'll see I guess. It will be on meter.

0822 At airport. Driver didn't ask for clave and the (non-currency-denominated) meter seemed suspiciously large (300 odd) by midway and was worried was going to get stiffed or end up in a row but he said 23k so no problem. I didn't tip, haven't generally here.

0836 McDonalds, land side. Flight is about 20 mins late. Eating land side as I had water in my bag which would be a Security Threat (TM) (R) airside and so this opened up possibility of saving price of a drink with food. As it happens come to McDonald's and a (not overly filling but still OK) breakfast with orange juice only 12.5k. I do wish they did the regular menu instead of/as well as a breakfast one, but kudos to them for providing tolerably priced food at airports.

0922 At gate. Security OK though they asked me to open the bag of chap in front of me (I didn't, of course, we both explained), then they passed my bag through scanner a second time and I wasn't absolutely sure I was allowed to take it. I guess it's natural to fear a process as arbitrary and potentially freedom-threatening as airport security even when you aren't a terrorist or drug smuggler.

Not sure I have seen anywhere to eat airside but I am not really hungry, there will probably be some food on plane and don't see any point throwing money away on more food now so not questing for a restaurant. I have an 'emergency' packet of peanuts if I get desperate.

1047 Just got called up to counter via PA with a few other people. They just seemed to want to do some stuff with my passport including swiping the magnetic strip; I suspect this is because I checked in online, though even so it's a bit unusual. Still, no harm done. Departure time still showing 1140 as it has since got to airport.

Oh, I was at Hotel San Sebastian here in Bogota (room 501, trivia fans!).

1134 On flight. Woman assigned seat next to me appears to require five minutes discussion with her friends to confirm it is her seat. Still, she's not fat and I have my aisle seat so who cares?

1204 Yay, we have to return to the gate for an additional check.

Before this I was thinking I should have checked prices for eg Bogota-London. Probably not cheaper given sunk cost of London-BA return (which I could only have avoided with much more rigid planning, since insurance shit prohibited leaving UK without a flight home booked) but by the time you factor in a not-very-valuable-as-holiday two nights accommodation in BA and two extra city centre-airport journeys in BA it just might have worked out cheaper. Meh. Too late now of course. Delay obviously super welcome, since this way there's a good chance I won't get to the hotel til 11pmish and that means, it being Sunday, I won't be tempted to indulge in the vice of eating dinner as everywhere will definitely be shut, instead of just probably.

1235 I think we are now at the gate for this check. FFS.

1240 Yay, there's some minor fault which has to be fixed.

1411 We might be taking off shortly. Fantastic!

1540 We weren't. We are in the air now and have been a while. I think we're going to land 3-4h late. This is a real fucker as it may rule out taking the minibus to that terminal round the back of Retiro (can't remember name) and a taxi from there. If so I could end up paying something like 40-50 fucking dollars for a taxi. I now wish I'd paid the 29 dollar pickup fee the hotel was offering, but of course I couldn't know we were going to be massively delayed and 29 is insane too. The fucking hotel room costs 25 dollars a night, less than a fucking taxi, possibly half as much! Fucking taxis, fucking airports built a billion miles out of town with no fucking decent public transport.

(Since I pretty much have to get a taxi to airport to fly home - time too tight to risk the public bus - and (although it's not particularly dangerous in BA) I never like to get a cab off the street to go long distance I will have to ask the hotel for a cab to airport and that pretty much puts me in the position of them sticking me for USD29. I was 'expecting' this outbound but inbound I expected to be able to trade time and convenience for money, but thanks to this delayed flight I'm probably fucked. Bunch of cunts. They should fucking be obligated to compensate me; we're not looking at a 15 minute delays here.)

It is fractionally tempting to camp out at the airport and get the first public bus into town, but the risk of then oversleeping tomorrow night is too high, even were it not otherwise an unpleasant prospect.

1552 My (outdated) guide book suggests the minibus runs up to midnight. Just have to wait and see I guess. They said lunch would be served once we reached cruising altitude but no sign of it yet. I expect it to be inedible just because I'm keener than usual - if not desperate, breakfast was 725kcal (it happened to be printed on the display board), I probably have 500-1000kcal of peanuts and a packet of extra strong mints so I'm not going to starve, and as I recall there are lots of 24h shops near hotel so may be able to get some crisps or something on arrival at hotel - but you never know and at least a drink would be nice.

1649 Food actually OK. Not enormous quantity of course but OK.

1920 Finally finished Atlas Shrugged, which I have been reading on and off possibly since I started this holiday back in October. I can't help but feel it's about twice as long as it ought to be.

2312 (Argentina) Yay. I'm at the Manuel Tienda Leon stand out where the bus arrives (couldn't fucking understand instructions after buying ticket inside terminal and like a fuckwit I just said OK and walked off through the one-way door, but someone pointed me over here without even asking exactly what I was lucking for. Next bus is midnight. Thanks once again, Aerolineas Argentinas, for that three hour delay. They go half hourly earlier I believe. Still, it "only" cost ARS110 vs ARS380 I was quoted for a remise direct to hotel, so as long as I can get a taxi I should save money. I put "only" in quotes because at the official exchange rate that's still nearly fourteen quid. For a bus. Fucking hell, it doesn't cost that much to get a fucking train from Gatwick (IIRC) or the tube from Heathrow. Still, I'm going to be getting to the hotel about 1am if I'm lucky, more like 1:30am if I had to make a bet on it. I hope they haven't decided to give my room away or anything, I understand a booking isn't generally considered binding in the hotel trade. If I want to go out for a bottle of water or some food - and frankly I might not, I can purify some tap water and maybe skip cleaning my teeth rather than wait the hour (or is it 30 mins?) it takes to purify. On the other hand, my body clock is two hours earlier than local time and I'm a night person, so if I don't get to bed til 2am local time that's only midnight body clock. I am feeling a bit tired though. We'll see I guess. I might be fighting to find a taxi at 2am for all I know.

Guy at booth here told me very explicitly 'here at midnight, or 10-15 mins before'. Cos I guess I might decide to pop back into terminal for a quick meal or something. As if, when I can enjoy standing around aimlessly? At least the weather is OK; they said 15C as we came in to land and with jacket on it feels very pleasant.

2324 Trying to look on the bright side - and while decidedly not chuffed I'm not at the "swearing out loud in English" point - I had ARS300 left from January and I have to assume it will turn into bum fodder by the next time I'm here given the state of the Argentinian economy. I still need to "live" for the next day and a bit but the hotel is going to be paid in USD and the taxi to the airport might be so in some very narrow sense this is "free" (or rather, allows me to claw back some of my excessive withdrawal back in January - not that I can blame myself, what with insane per-withdrawal fees - iirc four quid a pop, I am sure I bitched about it on blog at time tho - in this broken economy it wasn't easy to be too precise, it never is - anyway, perhaps I should say the marginal cost of this bus/taxi is close to zero instead). I also have sufficient USD that if necessary - and they'll deal with the tiny amounts, which is less clear - I can go to a street money changer for the unofficial rate instead of having to withdraw any cash. This is not an accident, I was v careful to ensure adequate USD supplies when I left Ecuador.

2335 The ticket does actually say 'Lavalle y Maipu' which is where I told the chap my hotel was; guide book does say bus will drop you at some central hotels, so I just possibly - not to get my hopes up - might actually get dropped right there.

2347 On bus.

2349 We're off.

2351 Asked ticket checking chap if could get down at corner Lavalle (no idea if that's a Spanishy ll or not) and Maipu and he said yes. So fingers crossed.

2354 We've stopped somewhere on the airport complex. Isn't this exciting? Best blog evar.

(I deliberately have my bag with me instead of in the boot to faciliate getting off.)

2355 "Englishman in New York" playing very softly on crackly radio.

0013 "Got a feeling I could be someone... remember when you're driving in your car"

0038 At Terminal Madero. I asked, this is 'Lavalle y Maipu'. So why the fuck do they

0044 OK, it looks like the ticket includes (?) an onward connection in a shared cab. Milling around terminal on sheep grounds has revealed this. I might get a cab over here and bus out to airport on Monday morning. Guide book undersold the service if is included connection.

0112 Yes, so bus+cab not too bad value. Checked in. VAT of 21% on top - I just *luuurve* the way booking.com doesn't include this in the headline price and then sometimes you do get charged it and sometimes you don't - so USD62 for two nights but still could be worse, can't remember if charged VAT last time. In room 2, different from last time but OK. Went out for food. 24h restaurant opposite but rather pricey (if understandable). 'Abierto 25 horas' on corner but drunk fuckwit occupying the tiny pigeonhole through the grille with his two slimy sauce-covered hot dogs and not moving away after being served but instead chatting with guy on duty so fucked off to opposite corner. Another A25H there with lights on and guy inside but no hole in grille. WTF? Fortunately had spoted an open shop with no grille (not a chain) when had to walk a block after dropped off by taxi as road closed (not their fault) so went there. ARS44 or £5.50 for bottle of water, largish packet of biscuits and tiny packet of ham flavour crackers but a) this is in part the shitty official exchange rate b) it is 1am so I expect to pay a premium c) I paid less than expected to get here d) will probably go back to airport Tue via cab+MTL bus from terminal Madero so saving there e) therefore not that pissed off and it is also way cheaper than eating at that 24h restaurant f) but a bit pricey all the same g) I should eat - not that hungry but decided best get something - and clean my teeth and go to fucking bed and stop writing this. ;-) Will send now.

Bogota, Saturday

1433 On Cerro de Monserrate, waiting for cable car down. I came up on the funicular (as it was due to stop at 2-3pm so I figured better get that up, as I wanted to use both). Views pretty cool though lot of haze.

Woke up 10-1030ish actually feeling OK but rather weakly stayed in bed til about 1130 despite being desperate for a piss. Left hotel about 12 and there were quite a few people about and actually at the lower terminal a huge contingent of soldiers. Didn't really think about doing the walk up the hill; would be sort of cool but guidebook implies it's more a morning thing for safety and is also a bit vague as to if it's reopened and I didn't check on web etc. Besides I did want to try the funicular and cable car. Maybe next time I will walk up. (Didn't seek out the path, dunno if would have been hard to find.)

Had a small empanada

1506 Fucking hell. Internet cafe shut. Asked if another one nearby, guy said something surly and incomprehensible with a negative quality.

1508 It's OK, in another one across street. If it ever lets me start using it.

1559 Well that was pretty cool. Went looking for restaurant, found one but thirsty so went round block to find a shop where could buy cold diet coke. Found one and a bunch of guys were playing jazz/samba (? - they did "oye como va" (sp) at one point) in the middle of the road. Stayed to watch, now in restaurant "Los Autenticos Del Pacifico" for paella and a colombiana ligera. Waitress just asked me something incomprehensible about 'san chichita' (already forgotten) so I said yes when she repeated it a second time.

Had an empanada (tiny) and a rather pricey 4k grilled-corn-on-cob up on Monserrate (been spelling that wrong I think) and a quick apple in room before left. Will probably go for walk (may see if music still/back on, they were taking a break or maybe stopping when I left) and then lard out on a pizza before night in.

Been given a bowl of soup, this is an included extra, I just asked. Prob what the incomprehensible q was about.

1611 Some sort of seafoody soup, quite a few bones so not gone down to bottom but OK if not exactly a delight.

Incidentally yday morning went and asked for my passport so I could take the credit card out on false pretext I needed it; I wanted reassurance they hadn't lost it. I need to collect passport this evening but should be OK. I asked at same time about taxi and they said they could organise it (one comment on web said they wouldn't) and it would be about 20k and 20-30 mins. Flight is 1125 so allowing 3h at airport I probably want a cab at 8am, which is a bit sucky but could be worse.

I hope I am going to get paella and haven't got confused. It occurs to me I haven't seen any prices but probably OK and if it's 25-30k then not the end of world.

1626 Bill been put on table, 30500. FFS. Still, paella is pretty good. Am a bit annoyed with myself though.

1645 Can't quite finish it, am absolutely stuffed. Some of the seafood a bit rubbery but OK. Paranoia says not smart to eat seafood day before long flight but probably no more risky than anything else.

Don't really feel that was worth the money but not the end of world, not insanely expensive.

1812 At reception, collecting passport and arranging taxi for 8am. Street musicians were there, watched them til 6 when they stopped, probably for the day, but in any case was a handy opportunity to break off to come back to hotel.

2055 Oh, FWIW been quite sunny and hot today, whereas up til now been OK (iirc better than Quito) but a bit overcast and pleasant but not overly warm.

0111 Bed. Bit weak but not really tired and it's not like I've been drinking. Some noise from street but no worse than flat in Elephant & Castle, in fact not as bad. Dunno if was like this last night but didn't know cos was out myself. Didn't go out for pizza, as was stuffed after paella and also I had quite a bit of fruit in hotel fridge to get through. Am sure not perfect but overindulgence in fruit today will offset tomorrow when probably won't eat any.

Bogota, Friday night

2145 In 360. REM's "Losing My Religion" playing, the video has Spanish subtitles...

2156 Toto, "Africa". Daniel is on tonight, spoken a bit but he is working - he apologised for not being here, said he had sent me msg on facebook, told him I had been late anyway and no worries. Sitting at bar, feel a bit awkward but think beer is kicking in.. ;-)

V busy, no free tables.

2231 Los Prisioneros, "We Are Sudamerican Rockers". Not a song I yet know well but the English lyrics are obviously a giveway.

2315 Is someone setting up for live music? Someone fiddling on stage. Barman just brought his sax out and stashed it behind bar. Could be. Current inclination is to stay out as late as seems advisable and do my best to be up at 10. Montserrat station is about 1.5km from hotel so walkable and am trusting it to be safe on a Saturday morning.

0009 Live music indeed. (Different) acoustic guitarist and box percussion player on stage, electric bass player stood off to one side. Stopped, probably on a break (tho didn't catch what they said) given sax not come out yet. ;-) Not bad tho not raving, but live music always welcome.

0011 "Rape Me" on during absence. I only know the Richard Cheese version. Or am I

0020 ..confused Depeche Mode, "Enjoy the silence".

0259 Well that was cool. Daniel (who had been working heavily til about midnight so not much chance to talk) introduced me to a friend (Yamian if his email address is to be believed) and we were talking (live music came back on for a bit). Bar shut at 3 otherwise could have imagined it going on longer. Need to try to be up by 10ish but meh, if I do fuck up - tho need to be firm with myself - worth it.

Bogota, Friday

1247 Woo. Got up about 1130. Need to Skype parents and want to be at some tower block for viewing 6pm ish so don't want to be Skyping then. And we've got a power cut; netbook works while battery lasts but of course the wifi is out. FFS.

1345 In some small place for arepa with ham and cheese. Wifi/power didn't come back so came out on epic quest to locate shop bought postcards in other day as it had a postbox and not seen one elsewhere. Finally located it by retracing steps must have taken on way up there from Plaza Chorro Quewhatsit. They have diet soft drinks of local variety here, having 'Colombiana ligera' which is slightly weird (it's a dark orange) and hard to describe but OK.

Think place is 'Arepas Rellenas Donde Fercho'. Arepa nice if not immensely substantial but for about 4k with the drink can't complain.

1433 Back at hotel via supermarket for fruit/veg/water and to break a 50k. Still no power and they seemed to be fiddling with a petrol generator just outside front entrance. Yay. The one day I'm under orders to Skype *and* had plans for 6pmish.

Will do some laundry then go out for a proper meal (once arepa had a bit of time to digest) if power remains off.

1523 Wandered, bit of struggle to find decent restaurant, went in one ok-but-cheap looking place but most dishes 20-25k, so left after saw menu. In this other place getting churrasco; no diet soft drinks so having a guava (I think) juice (with no sugar; dunno if that's normal or cos I asked about sugar-free drinks).

1558 Place Molina-Sazon. Not amzing - steak rather gristly - but OK. Didn't seem to get charged for the juice, bill 13k. Not worrying about that, maybe it's included.

1806 At Mirador Torre Colpatria, in queue to get in. Not ideal but meh. Went to net cafe after eating, online checkin gave reassuring message about 'your flight details have changed, please call us' but since it implied you can't check in more than 36h in advance not too worried yet. Shit timing that tomorrow is the only 'safe' day to go up Montserrate and the day I need to check in for flight and deal with any fallout if there is a problem, esp as Montserrate has to be earlyish. (Stuck between two couples in queue. The one in front is OK but I keep getting kissing noises from the one behind.)

Skyped parents v briefly from net cafe w zero privacy but power back on when got to hotel so called again, surfed til came out to walk over here.

In hindsight might have been better to have less time in BA at start of trip and more now, since as-is tonight is really (and even then tomorrow morning squashes it a bit) the last fully open night of the holiday. After tomorrow it's really just a slow, drawn out return to the UK. OK I might visit one museum and have a coffee or something in BA on Monday but it's hardly going to be fun. But then again I had perfectly good reasons for not absolutely dashing out of BA at start of holiday. I think it doesn't help that while I will doubtless want to return BA, I do like it and I would like to have a fun night out there, still haven't cracked that, it isn't that novel to me any more so I didn't want to invest say four days at start *and* four days at end out of my limited time. (If I had 'unlimited' time then that would have been the easy solution of course, though in reality even were I comfortably-well-off-but-not-insanely-rich [FFS, couple in front starting to get kittenish] retiree with no time constraints, travel insurance considerations might have mandated booking a return flight before leaving home and then I'd still be torn between getting as much time in as possible in new places vs not having a somewhat shitty brief stopover in BA with attendant airport hassles, just as I am now.)

Might have been better to do asymmetrical flights but when I booked my plans were fuzzy and financially it might have made sense to have flown via BA both ways. But from a pure convenience point of view would doubtless be better if I were returning to UK direct from Bogotá (put the accent on for once to show I know it's there).

Queue is shuffling forward but could be a while before I get in. Tis OK, I don't have any plans for tonight beyond "because it's the last night" trip to 360 between say 9 and 12 - have to be up early of course, unless I say fuck it to Montserrate on this trip - will highly likely be revisiting Colombia and thus almost inevitably Bogota, barring major life changes, and I don't think missing it would be a deathbed regret, and the walk back is sufficiently short and busy that I don't have major security concerns. Not to say I *am* going to say fuck it to Montserrate tomorrow but you never know. Assuming I get up here tonight I will have had a good view over the city.

I still need to finish writing up yday but tis OK.

OTOH I have to do something to take my mind off the queue. Let's write a bit more. I got to the entrance and since I was willing to have it in Spanish got taken in on a solo guided tour almost immediately. Would have preferred a bigger group so didn't feel compelled to 'play social games' with the guide - I'd rather walk round and listen and observe - but still. Then left to own devices tho not clear exactly how free I was to wander anywhere. Loads of souvenir stalls and concessions and shit down there, tho not v busy.

It is pretty impressive and quite cool if not OMFG WOW! Bit eerie when you get on your own down there. 3D film about the site a bit naff but OK - and 3D is still a bit of a novelty to me - and sound & light show on ceiling of big cavern OK if not amazing. Oddly single coolest thing I nearly missed as not on guided tour and tucked behind a concession - a huge rectangular pool of water billed as a water mirror. It was so still it was very reflective and with the unusual surroundings and lighting etc it took me a while to convince myself it wasn't just a pit/hole in ceiling of lower floor with no water in (since ceiling was rock and hence could equally pass as floor of a pit).

I already said I walked back through town and v nice and wished I'd had more time there and I opened yday on bus and if I didn't say yday it took ages again on TransMilenio back then it did (but I got a seat, when a Jnn finally turned up after loads of D10s which went from same part on platform at Portal Norte) and I think that's about it.

1843 Still queuing the middle of this U-rated orgy (OK, it's not that bad). I hate queueing. However, I have nothing else pressing to do and doing this may free me up from doing Montserrate this time round if I want. Incidentally, it is only open 6-9pm Fri and something similar Sat/Sun, so I couldn't have come here 'off-peak'.

Need to be careful not to talk myself out of doing Montserrate for nothing. I am not sure I want any socialising at 360; however if I do socialise I might risk staying out late even if it jeopardises the trip to M. If it's just a quiet solo beer then I need to avoid staying up all night for no really good reason.

2013 Back at hotel. That was pretty cool, though the bars a bit obtrusive; even with face right up to them they're too narrowly spaced to become invisible.

Walk back quite good too, v busy, nice urban sort of vibe. Heard Shakira "Whatever, Wherever" or whatever it's called (in Spanish) and "Eye Of The Tiger" at couple of points on walk back.

2052 OK, heading out so will send this now.

Bogota, Thursday

1730 Score. Just walked back through centre of Zapaquira to Avenida 15 and got bus to Portal Norte immediately. Need to write up today of course but probably hold off for now.

OK, let's start anyway. Woke up 10-11ish not feeling that bad but didn't want to get up. Did a bit of web research re this trip when got up 1130ish and actually left hotel just before 1.

Managed to find Las Aguas TransMilenio stn and after some weird problems with my newly issue smart card got through barriers. Enormous wait for B74 to Portal Norte and rammed when on it (very glad I didn't bring my daypack) but survived the hour approx trip to PN.

1748 As had read but also was quite obvious because I was lucky enough to have a bus to Zipaquira waiting when I got to PN it ws just other side of ticket barriers. Bus was full so I ended up sitting on a big weird cushion up by the driver; later a woman sat in a microscopic seat next to this big weird cushion got off and after managing to let her off I took that seat. Ultra narrow but a different form of (only) mild discomfort so worth the change.

1950 At Ricasole for pizza, not been back to hotel yet. Too late to Skype parents. Probably be late at 360 but meh, bit dubious about going but should be ok. Some stuff about did I want the pizza half and half. I think I squashed that but fk knows. Had ice cream sandwich on walk to Catedral de Sal and 2 pears this morning but otherwise not eaten all day.

2140 Just arrived at 360, few people sat at bar, otherwise empty and no one I recognise. I am admittedly 1h10 late, I have a good reason but still, couldn't blame Daniel if he's fucked off. Bit unsure if I want to meet people but meh, couple of beers and can always go home. Trying to work on basis of question "what if this was a good way for things to happen?".

May write up more of earlier, not sure. Forgot to send the little I had before coming out so no point splitting into day and night entries.

I've been given a glass without asking; think is barmaid from last night but she wasn't very chatty with me last night so not pushing it. It's a pint glass tonight! Not sat at bar as the guys sat there kind of render it awkward so have a table.

Let's continue today's story, better than nothing. I got off in Zapaquira, had been following on GPS and I asked as got off too. No signs and the otherwise super detailed instructions I had read on web were vague, but fortunately I had marked it on OSM this morning and short of a surplus of dogs in the streets (perhaps the city effect but since and including Guayaquil dogs been fairly scarce) causing a detour I found it OK. Was about 315 or 330 by this time. Place shuts at 530 iirc but more importantly wanted to be on bus home before dark, I had kind of accepted the walk from Museo de Oro stn to hotel in early evening darkness without worrying about it too much (it's not far and v busy).

Bit of trouble finding ticket office but some woman ran through all the different ticket options then I waited a few mins for someone to turn up at ticket window. I went for the basic 23k package. Could have paid 3k extra for brine museum and 3k extra for a tourist train (fake road vehicle train; I'd seen it in town on my walk over) and had I been there earlier I might have, but she said 1.5h for basic stuff and I didn't want to push it. Not going to regret the absence of train or brine museum on my deathbed and just possibly I will go back in the future. There was also scope for a walk round the grounds or something and (to anticipate) the town centre when I passed through it on way home (I was down side streets on way there) was very pleasant with lots of cafes etc round plaza independencia and it would be nice (would have been nice) to spend time there. You could also pay extra to do some 'be a miner for 40 minutes' thing but had read it was super cheesy on web so although I didn't have the time I don't remotely regret not doing that.

OK, typing on phone - nails a smidge long doesn't help - winding me up so take a break.

2219 Power cut. Not clear if just this bar or adjacent. It isn't pitch black out but it could be from car lights.

2233 Power restored a few mins ago, tho still seems v dark, maybe lights weren't on before, can't remember.

2256 Looks like someone is setting up for live music. I have a vague idea that was mentioned last night actually.

Yep, two guys squashed onto a tiny stage in corner of what is a small place. One with acoustic guitar, presumably other is going to sing.

2337 Stopped. Oasis "Sing me something new" come on. Quite good really, bloke without the guitar did percussion on a wooden box, the barman joined them on saxophone. Not 100% in mood but good to get some proper small bar live music in before trip ends. It's been relatively thin on the ground. Think this song is "Stand by me".

2349 Los Prisioneros, "Porque no se van?" :-)

2353 Pink Floyd, "Money"

0023 "Love me two times and walk away"

0044 Stones, "Paint it black". Having fifth beer and then might go back to hotel. Will probably come in here tomorrow night and don't want to go nuts tonight. Probably wouldn't have come out had it not been for the arrangement to meet here thought it might have been a good thing anyway under circumstances.

Oh, when I paid for pizza earlier they got my order mixed up and gave me way too much change. Being a basically decent person with no grudge against them I went back and sorted it out. They might have shortchanged me by 500 in the process but I'm not totally clear and wasn't going to argue over about 15p.

0053 "Breaking The Law"

0101 Yeah, let's go.

Bogota, Wednesday night

2045 OK, I'm in small and slightly intimidating bar poss called 360 next to Bogota Beer Company. Stones' "Satisfaction" playing. Drinking Poker at IIRC 2300 a bottle. Sat at bar, feeling v conspicuous but f it. Lot of people on street btw. Pub under hotel was open earlier but is shut now, wtf? V dark in here and lots of people (though not heaving) lounging about on cushions behind me. I don't think it's dangerous but you never know, my paranoia has been stirred up. Feh. I have never been attacked etc in a bar, and I'm about twenty seconds walk from hotel. There are no certainties but I don't think the risk is worth worrying about. FFS, even given a 100% safe taxi I'd spend more time in the street getting in and out than I expect to on walk home.

2101 "Hit the road Jack". Always reminds me of C4 "Remote Control". Feeling smidge less awkward. Frankly the whole business about drugged beer etc almost makes me *nervous* that someone might speak to me.

2104 Second beer. Fuck knows how much it cost. Handed 3k in notes over. She didn't like that. Offered 4k even though I knew that was too much, that was waved back. Said something about coins so I proferred a handful and she took some. Probably had no change but my Spanish skills are evidently as a low ebb, waning with the outgoing of the holiday.

Apropos of nothing, Wikitravel says tap water is potable (tho can be chlorine-tasting) here. Quite possibly but not risking it. Touch wood I have avoided any serious episodes of diarrhea (good job as I can't spell it) with my 'bottled or purified water at all times, even for cleaning teeth' rule and I'm not changing now.

2127 Have had look at guide book on phone re getting to Zipaquia (sp). Apart from being possibly over 3h each way doesn't sound too bad. Will see what Wikitravel and maybe web in general say. Guide book says you can do it and Laguna de Guatita in a cab for 180kish but how the fuck do you arrange that? Call a cab firm and ask? Sounds more of a personal negotiation thing. But you're not supposed to take a taxi in the street. As always the guide book frankly sucks but it's better than nothing. I have some idea from this morning wikitravel mentions a 20 min walk or taxi ride in Zipaquira to get to the salt cathedral, if so the guide book says nothing about that. Maybe I misremembered. We'll see back at hotel. Inclining not to do that city tour if it has to be tomorrow, rather get Zipaquira attempted while I have a spare day in hand. Also be good practice with the TransMilenio which may be important to visit the hill safely.

2133 Some people have left and now I look round no one is on the beanbags behind me. Is at least one couple here beside me and it's sufficiently early I am not too worried. Don't want to be out mega late anyway.

Oh, place is '360(degree symbol) cafe bar'.

2143 Judas Priest, "Breaking the law". A song I first learned from Dick 'n Dom...

2155 Beer 4. "Riders on the storm". Made a point of breaking a 20k (but gave the odd 300 exactly in change) since if I am chancing that epic journey tomorrow I don't want to be short of small bills for the four buses (two each way).

0304 Well that paid off in spades. I just spent the night talking with two bar staff and a friend of theirs, and I guess the fact they were bar staff not random people adds confidence. I still hope to be up early, I don't feel drunk despite one of them (not bar staff) sharing aguadiente freely. Meeting them tomorrow 830. Do want to try and be up for Zwhatsit tomorrow, got some advice but basically think is safe and incidentally told that in Colombia it's totally OK to ask owner of random business (probably one you are a customer of) to call you a cab. While would feel wussy to not do the Zwhatsit trip frankly that kind of socialising with locals and Spanish practice is worth missing it for.

Maybe I'm drunk but frankly tonight alone justifies coming to Colombia. That sort of shit is a big reason I travel, and travel to countries where I can more-or-less speak the language.

Anyway, wrt tomorrow morning - not that I feel that drunk - I need to take a lesson from Colin in Bariloche, who got up at 6am to go biking the night after we stayed up til gone 3, and then met me the following night.

(PS Bars shut by law at 3am here, apparently.)

Bogota, Wednesday

1325 At Parilla y Tizon, Carrera 9. Getting carne con arepa and possibly a lemonade.

Didn't get up til 12 as was snoozing 'pleasantly' from 11. Meh, sort of an improvement.

Didn't leave hotel til nearly 1 as looking about tours etc. Basically no. Guide book lists one agency fucking miles away and says most tours are min 2 or 4 people, not going there on offchance. Another is half-listed right by hotel but can't find it.

I asked at reception. I am sure they advertise a tour desk. The response was 'well... it's complicated... you could look on the internet'. FFS.

I am taking it easy today, probably go to Museo Botero after this (in same complex went to first day but didn't make it there). Tomorrow probably have to risk the public transport approach to Zapaquira and probably have to forget about Laguna de Guatita.

Oh, guide book says you shouldn't walk around alone after dark in La Candelaria. Yay, perfect for the solo traveller. I will probably continue to risk the three or four immediately adjacent bars.

Half wonder if I should have booked in at a hostel for 2-3 nights even if it meant a dormitory in order to take advantage of their probably better tour offers. Might - though prob wouldn't - also offer socialising options. Not really in mood at end of trip TBH. Maybe something to bear in mind in future. Suppose I could maybe drop into hostel nearby hotel and ask about tour on offchance.

1506 At Cafe Para Dos not far from - but not in, disappointed at lack of cafes, mind you it is titchy  - Plazoleta de Chorro de Quevedo. Getting an americano (COP2k), slightly tempted by Irish coffee at 8k but no. PdCdQ quite nice in a somewhat run down way.

Went to Museo Botero. Something oddly cheering about his work (chubby just-about-anythings, men, women, buildings, animals, fruit, etc), he also seems to have been amazingly prolific and done most of it in his 60s. I had a strange but pleasant surprise on walking into a roomful of his sculptures to be confronted with a familiar looking chubby cat (the sculpture is called Gato or El Gato). I am 95% sure it, or something remarkably similar, is used in an amateur video accompanying the Youtube version of El Cantor Del Fonseca I normally look at (in lieu of buying a copy of the song).

Then went to PdCdQ and here. Oh, before getting to PdCdQ I stumbled on a tour agency. They don't have any groups going to Zwhatsit in next three days but I left my email address - which hasn't ever worked before but what the hell... They do a 3h city tour at 10am, it is not every day but they have one tomorrow. Bit torn, might do it - I think I can turn up at the office before 10 to buy ticket - as on one hand was hoping to try Zwhatsit via public transport tomorrow and leaving that til Fri is pushing it esp when I hope to go up the hill on Sat when it's safer. On the other hand it would be a way to see more of city. Would be finished by 1 so in a way it would be 'free' wrt time since would force me to get up, but OTOH if I am going to Zwhatsit I would need to force myself to get up, I think 1 would be too late.

Oh, I did step just inside Templo de la Candelaria after leaving the museum.

1639 At Que Como... nr hotel, lard on. Bought some postcards and stamps nr Museo de Oro  (will write tonight and hope I can find place again in next day or two to use postbox), went to cathedral on Plaza de Bolivar (what I have been calling main plaza), also nearby Templo de San Francisco (no photos allowed in latter). Getting carne a la parilla (comes with arepa and chips, I believe) and a diet coke. Dithering but will probably go to a bar nr hotel tonight for quiet drink. Not being too excessive and it is coming to end of holiday. Will go back to hotel after this.

1714 Back at hotel. Food pretty good. 12900 plus slightly stingy (tho not usually tipping at all what with the 'go to till to pay' system in use here, so...) 500 tip.

Good (if long; I've chopped it short as is) quote from Following The Equator:

I find that, as a rule, when a thing is a wonder to us it is not because of what we see in it, but because of what others have seen in it. We get almost all our wonders at second hand. We are eager to see any celebrated thing—and we never fail of our reward; just the deep privilege of gazing upon an object which has stirred the enthusiasm or evoked the reverence or affection or admiration of multitudes of our race is a thing which we value; we are profoundly glad that we have seen it, we are permanently enriched from having seen it, we would not part with the memory of that experience for a great price.

2038 OK, I'm not entirely sure why but going to pop out for a couple of beers.

Bogota, Tuesday night

2041 "And I don't want the world to see me cos I don't think they'd understand" playing. In bar just round corner from hotel. Not very nice really. Only tiny bottles of beer at COP3,500 - though to be fair that is a bit over a quid and hence a bit over two quid for more than a pint, not that I can see the exact volume on bottle. Meh. Might try next door - though as a basement bar not sure how brave I am feeling - after this. Quite a few people in here, no idea if they are tourists or what.

Out of the incomprehensible list of beers reeled off by slightly sullen barmaid (no big bottles or draught, I asked) I picked Club Colombia. She asked if I wanted Dorada or Roja, I said Roja. It's OK.

2052 Europe, "The Final Countdown"

2102 I think this place is Apóstol, but could be wrong. It's not so bad but I think I might chance my arm next door. (The bar right under hotel not open.)

2108 No, it's called Papyros, looked over door as came out. Now in Lymbo Rock Bar almost next door. Not v busy but a bit bigger and not scary. Beer (small bottles again; didn't bother asking for anything else) only 2600 here.

Sat at table as bar occupied by couple of friends of barmaid. Not a problem. Quite a few people on streets, if I can keep things moderate tonight I might go out again tomorrow night and perhaps venture a touch further afield.

"Don't want to touch you but you're under my skin... you're poison" (Alice Cooper???? Looks like him on the video playing on big projection screen.)

Drinking "Poker" beer. It's OK. Club Colombia Roja was probably a bit better though.

2213 Re-reading Mark Twain's Following The Equator on phone. Him talking about Indian and trains brings back memories, which I guess is one reason I travel, for the memories. Got third beer in here, might have one or two more as only smal and hotel round corner, tis OK, not going to go nuts.

Am feeling a touch more relaxed here now. Not particularly concerned on street during day today, correctly or otherwise.

2229 Midnight Oil, "Beds Are Burning". Makes me smile somehow, probably because it reminds me of that night in Quito.

2235 "Devil Went Down To Georgia". Notable as never seen the music video to this.

2238 I'm now last person in here. Might see if can go elsewhere, perhaps back to Papyros. Not saying I have to leave here but it's Tuesday and don't like being only one in. Maybe nowhere else, bit of shame if so but c'est la vie.

2243 Back at hotel. Was tempted to ask at bar if they were shutting but didn't. Walked slightly further up street but beggary weirdo gave a few coins to earlier was in middle of it and think he recognised me so turned back. Whatsit Beer Pub mentioned yday on other side of road looked shut and Papyros was very much shut so I'm strongly inferring nearly everywhere round here would be. Slight shame but no real problem, at least I have checked out a couple of places and can try somewhere else tomorrow.

0104 OK, bed. I am going to set an alarm for 11am and otherwise try last night's plan. I am sure despite my relatively easy life right now all that snoozing-disturbed-sleep has taken its toll and I am not going to expect to 'recover' from it in one night.

Bogota, Tuesday

1745 At some place near hotel round corner from Museo de Oro getting half chicken, chips and arepa. Difficulties re whether I wanted food or toilet and which floor and still a bit confused but meh. Feet killing me for some reason.

Woke up but didn't get up or dare look at clock. Eventually got up about midday and left hotel 1ish which was bit sucky but probably still more relaxing and no later than continual snoozing, so may try again tomorrow.

Went to Museo de Policia which was quite interesting, just me on tour at first then joined by a woman who might have been Dutch or Irish. The tour was nominally in English but when solo I told guy I spoke some Spanish after he said he had only been learning English two months. He spoke English to me but when the woman joined us - she said she spoke some Spanish - he switched exclusively to Spanish, he asked me to help translate but I didn't want to patronise her and she said she understood him so fortunately I didn't need to. Not sure if she was Dutch or Irish as she said it in Spanish and I thought she said Irish but the tour guide thought she said Dutch. He was probably right, she didn't immediately strike me as Irish when I heard her speak English. Bit intimidated going up to museum as it looks like a police station with guards and all staff are police but I asked and it's been exclusively a museum since 1986.

After went to Museo de Oro. They announced tours in Spanish and English; was going to do the English one but on a whim joined Spanish group. Not complete tour, we spent over an hour just on a few exhibits on the symbolism floor but was interesting and pleased to understand about 90%. Buzzed round rest of 2nd and 3rd floors after, by no means seen everything but they were not far off closing and my feet were hurting as not eaten all day except an apple and a pear this morning before leaving hotel.

1808 Food OK if not amazing. 9500 for the food and 1800 for a smallish bottle of coke zero. Place is Suiza, Av Jimenez 4-98.

2025 Will go out for beer soon. Stupidly nervous. Notice bar next to hotel was open when came back so hopefully not like last night.

Bogota, Monday night

2112 What a crock of shit. I went out. Some fucking dog barking its head off as got into street. Pub under hotel not open. Walked round corner, a few people about but pretty dead. No bars in that vicinity open, not even (it was blacked out with bloke standing in doorway, I didn't actually *ask*) the Bogota Beer Company on the corner which (unlike most of the nearby bars) was open when I walked past about 5pm. WTF? It's open at 5pm but shut at 9pm? It looked crap anyway, it was full of a very SYT crowd, but still, I am surprised.

I am not saying I might not have found something had I walked further but definitely not chancing that. I have to assume that Monday is just an ultra-dead night. Meh. I will try again tomorrow. Fortunately I wasn't gagging for a beer or the chance of a conversation, I just feel it's good to go out every few nights. Meh. Dunno what bloke on reception who had to let me in about three minutes after I left thought. :-)

To be scrupulously honest one 'shop' was open and lit and had three blokes smoking outside and though I didn't feel up to stopping for a good look in it might have been a narrow bar full of people. On the other hand a sign on the wall did say 'we sell ice' so maybe not. Certainly not a blatantly signed bar and definitely didn't feel up to investigating it further. I suspect it is relatively safe on the streets round here at night but who knows for sure, and I need to gradually build my confidence up in any new-and-potentially-dangerous place (not sure if that is rational or not).

0142 Feh, been surfing. Feels like I've read some useful stuff but may be deluding myself. Done a few calculations too, so not been pure idleness. Need to get to bed soon. Going to take a chance and just set an alarm for midday. I am hoping that if I can avoid the whole 'completely broken snooze-button for hours' sleep I will actually wake up, maybe go back to sleep again but then wake up ready to get up earlier than I would with all the snoozing. The midday alarm is just a kind of backstop to prevent me waking up at 3pm feeling like I've lost the entire day. But I still have five full days here so I can just about afford that, though I'd rather not - I'm very lazy but I like to get at least half a day of activities in if possible.

0155 OK, bed.

Bogota, Monday

1154 Just got up. Been snoozing on alarms since about 9, seriously. I can't help thinking snoozing is a terrible habit, would be better to just go back to sleep. Maybe I should just set an alarm for say 1pm and let myself wake up naturally. Mind you, doesn't help the room is just slightly on the cold side and that never helps getting out of bed. Probably take ages to go out as need to consult guide book and worry about safety. Sod it, do what I can I guess.

1329 Come out. Lots of museums shut today, not fucking around with tour arranging (prob impossible anyway) or the risky business of that hill. Got lost on way out, I could swear I went the direction indicated by phone compass on OSM but then it turned out that was exactly opposite. Didn't notice immediately as trying to minimise having phone out on street so couldn't watch the current location dot run off in wrong direction as I moved. Fuck knows. Maybe doesn't help that hotel is on a weird corner not shown on map precisely so hard to get my bearings outside hotel. Also it's all very well having this grid calle/carrera scheme but right here the street layout is nothing like a grid and there are a/b/c calles shoved in and fuck knows.

In some small pizzeria which is bit intimidating but fuck it. Managed to order a pizza after much dickering trying to find out how big a medium is. On my way to Casa de Moneda which sounds OK but going partly cos it is open Mon. F&CO website says a British tourist was robbed at gunpoint in this area. But I suppose it was one of thousands etc and guide book etc makes it out to be OK. Getting increasingly rammed and I have a table and wondering if going to end up sharing or if I should preemptively move to counter.

Finished paying hotel when came out. They haven't charged me the 16% VAT which is a bonus. Counted up my USD and should have ample even for two USD30 taxis plus hotel in BA, not that I intend to spend that much.

Mega warm in here, am sat near semi-open kitchen, but it's OK, quite nice in a cool-ish way out so will cool off after eating. Does mean loads of people milling around on my left.

No diet coke, they offered me natural lemonade and it really is lemony and unsweet. I like lemons but an unusual taste. Need to conserve it as not v big and having a medium pizza.

Place is Ricasole Pizzeria on Carrera 4.

Oh, the pizza sizes are named exlusively in English but everything else on the menu is in Spanish only. WTF? Maybe this is just one of those weird things, like coffee sizes in some places in UK using Italian names even though English has its own perfectly good words for the same things.

1819 Back at hotel. Went round CdM and some of the confusing back passages which unite it with an adjacent art museum. All free. Got told off for trying to take a picture of some big lump of gold, as always can't see why prohibited but when it's free bit less annoying. Walked up towards Museo de Oro station as had seen shop there other day where hoped to get diet coke and fruit but most shops shut at 1710. Walked round a bit and ended up in major plaza, where I bought a grilled corn on the cob and after eating that went into nearby supermarket and bought soft drinks and water and fruit/veg - room has a fridge so might as well take advantage.

May see if any of adjacent bars open/decent later but not til 8 or 9 and won't be a late one.

2041 Will prob go out in 20 mins or so. Oddly jittery given there is a pub right under the hotel if open and failing that several just round corner. Anyway, will send this now...

Bogota, Sunday

1533 Been out for cash, either phone GSM is subtly off or the OSM maps for here are bullshit. Eventually found cash machine, got some fruit in weird little shop on way back, forgot to take receipt for hotel out and since room on 5th floor didn't pay rest yet. May pop out see what the nearby bars like later if not too tired and will pay on my way out. Left ARS200 in plastic bag with passport and credit card, hope doesn't go walkabout.

V steep hill with chuch and top and funicular or something like that nearby. Will look into that kind of thing and its safety tonight/tomorrow. Area slightly run down in places but not too bad.

1737 Not going out tonight unless I have a major change of heart. Bit tired, it's Sunday so probably a bit dead (places might even be shut for all I know), no point burning through my alcohol allowance. Surfing, seems bit of waste of time but OTOH nice to enjoy the relative luxury and with luck will be up earlyish tomorrow.

2335 Been surfing, bit tired, should prob have gone to bed. Anyway, shower then maybe move in that direction. Looking out of window street seems v quiet and not much street noise, despite some claims of it being disturbing on web reviews. So I am going to infer Sunday night is fairly dead and I did the 'right thing' not going out. Arguably I could have used my time better tonight but tonight when I am tired it is probably more defensible than ever. Feeling a smidge down but will put it down primarily to tiredness.

2343 OK, there was at best tepid water in shower and it's cool enough in room I'm not going to freeze my arse off for no reason. Bed.

Quito-Bogota

0602 Dragged myself out of bed about 0548, think woke on 0540 alarm. Inevitably I didn't get to sleep til about 0300 or maybe later, probably nerves re oversleeping or just general perversity of life. In room topping up phone - I didn't dare not sleep with it - before head down to reception. Fingers crossed but I guess having got up probably means the major risk of missing the flight is out of the way.

Naturally the T-shirt I left unpacked is still damp, as were the others and the underwear I packed last night. Well, they'd only been hung on travel clothesline in bathroom for about 48 hours, in Quito's deliciously cool climate that evidently isn't anything like enough time.

0617 In back of taxi about to leave, oldish bloke came down, maybe bell doesn't ring down in hall cos didn't heard anything, he let me out and driver was waiting outside, handed key over. Checked destination and price with driver, so that's all good. Don't think want to deliberately go to sleep now but if I do probably OK.

0709 At airport. Woohoo, a nice quick journey! Only four hours to wait. But even in hindsight what else could I do?

0718 Getting expensive half fries half onion rings for USD5 at Johnny Rocket's. May see if can get 'proper' food airside but the restaurants landside are pricey or not doing food of any kind this early or both (went downstairs, saw the ones there). This will be something if nothing airside.

Not an original observation even for me but air travel is insanely expensive by the time you factor in the taxis (I often cheap out on arrival but for departure not so much as it's more time critical) and the need to eat overpriced food at the airport. I could have brought some snacks with me - I do have a few peanuts - but still, that's not ideal either.

The (presumably) mock 50s USA vibe is decidedly cheesy but meh.

0737 Credit where it's due, the portion was less stingy than I expected and was quite good. Anyway, might as well make my way airside.

0756 Airside. Relatively painless and no queueing but they put my bag back through the scanner a second time, between security and immigration some kind of cop asked to see my passport and asked why I was in Ecuador and which cities I had visited and what my job was and my final destination and then an immigration I was asked why I was going to Bogota and it all just made me a smidge jumpy. Aaaaanyway.

Not starving but will have look round restaurants and if I can get something for USD10-15 I may eat in 30-60 mins. Counted up last night to ensure I have enough USD left for Buenos Aires (hotel will be a rip off if don't pay in USD and ideally will have enough to pay for two taxi from/to airport though hope it won't come to that at least on arrival) but I think I can afford that much.

0805 I see there is a flight to Ezeiza - I assume that means BA Ezeiza not some city of same name. So perhaps I didn't need to go on to Bogota to get a direct flight to BA. Meh, no real harm done.

One place here sells pizza *by the slice* at USD7.99. FFS. There is a place which does chicken nuggety things at USD8.51 ish. I have about 2.70 in change so if I get some of those it will 'only' cos me USD5 as change is virtually dead money otherwise, I am unlikely to ever carry it back out once I get it home. I am wondering if I should 'save' a representative selection of coins but I don't collect coins so bit of a silly thought really.

1030 Went for "chicken pop" and managed to use up nearly all shrapnel while only burning through USD5 of notes, though the woman on the till nearly shortchanged me by USD2.

The thing I was about to write yday afternoon when food arrived was that on leaving lower end of TeleferiQo (as it is spelled; I thought it was a typo in the guide book before yday) where taxi had dropped me I milled around wondering how to get away. One taxi turned up but an old couple took it. A chap with a can of beer turned up and told me the bus stop was 100m down the hill; he was right but I refused to follow him out of paranoia at first and only when he returned in a car to pick some people up and told me again did I go down. The entrance to nearby funfair (Volcan???) was there and I nearly got a minibus for USD1 to Foch in Mariscal - but the two guys in there with me decided to get a cab, so I was sat there on my own then a cab with the 'secure' sticker on the windscreen came past so I jumped out and got that. He only quoted USD4 back to Plaza Grande but I made it 4.50. (It was USD6 up to TeleferiQo.)

1424 At hotel in Bogota. (Was at Hostal San Blas in Quito.) Room v large, a suite really, but slightly shabby. Quite good though. Guide book full of shit as usual, there is no booth outside the baggage area where you get a voucher giving an exact fixed price for your taxi. However I asked a cop and it's safe to take a taxi from the rank and although the driver mysteriously turned the meter off 700m from the hotel he charged me COP24,000 which I think is probably OK, guide book IIRC suggests about COP21k but v unclear. Have left passport and credit card at desk, I hope they are not going to leave them under the counter where they put them just now. Need to go out and withdraw some more cash in a minute. Area looks a smidge run down but is apparently safe. Was feeling really tired in taxi. Anyway, will send this now.

Quito, Saturday

1113 Didn't want to get up but managed to drag myself up about 1030. Everything seems such a fucking effort; it's the fact that simply getting a taxi to Teleferiqo is fraught with danger. Also knowledge of delightfully early start tomorrow not encouraging me to leap out of bed today.

Am in some 'just starting to open' restaurant hoping to get chicken and chips. It's already overcast if it wasn't all morning so no massive rush. I will go do online checkin and print after this - if I am worried about getting back in time to print it will ruin the afternoon, and with the super early start tomorrow I could be shafted if I don't get it printed today - then probably get a taxi from Plaza Grande where I can hopefully eyeball a parked taxi for authenticity rather than flagging down a moving one which I can't study first.

Really starting to worry about getting another contract or what will happen if it's front office. Rationally I need to say fuck it. I can't do anything about it now - not til I get back to UK - so silly to spoil rest of holiday. I can probably get *something* to stop eroding my savings even if it's shit money. If I get a front office job and can't stick it then I'm no worse off quitting than if I didn't get it in the first place and depending how long it takes I might get six months worth of money by way of a consolation prize. I also have some minor plans which I could perhaps push forwards a bit further if push came to shove. Also while I'd rather not erode them I do have some savings so I don't have to go into a fucking panic.

They haven't asked me *how much* chicken I want yet. I dunno if they are just assuming or they are still firing up ovens or whatever.

1124 Woo, been served, looks like 1/8 chicken. Lard out baby! Oh well. It will help cancel out some of the snacking I've been doing at night. I haven't had a really decently large cooked meal in ages. Closest is the trout at EPDLT but even then I don't feel all that full.

1255 What a crock of shit. It's 8.50 for foreigners vs 4.50ish for locals. I had to queue 20+ mins to buy my ticket. It says 'express' on it but the express line isn't open so I have to queue in the regular line (I tried and some woman waved me round to back of regular line). At least in India you get preferential treatment in return for paying extra. Obviously I shouldn't have come on a Saturday. Writing this in queue to board. Printed boarding pass OK and after lurking a bit got taxi in Plaza Grande, cost USD6 but didn't tip, was a fair old drive so prob reasonable. Dunno if services offering hike to peak will be offered at top (guide book vague) but definitely not chancing it solo and it's perhaps a bit late in the day even to do it with a group. Sun comes out occasionally through gap in clouds but dunno what view will be like.

Double checking guide book it says it's 3h hike to top (and 'some scrambling required'), so I'd guess *at least* 4h up and down, probably more like 5h. Given I'm not even at the front of the queue to board yet and it gets dark 6ish I think that's definitely not happening. Another thing for next time. Though next time I hope to arrive and depart by bus because using the airport is fucking expensive and inconvenient with the 2h USD26 taxi each way.

1410 At top. In cafe having overpriced empanada, cloud came down for a bit and eliminated the view, seems to have lifted somewhat though cloud level is still low. View is pretty cool but a) struggling to fight off the waves of uncertainty which are pounding me at the moment b) it would be much much better if it were clear weather. Saw sign to path to higher summit, it says 5h so yay for my estimation and definitely not doing it; I also haven't checked on robbery risk on that path (guide book mentions it) even were there no time issues. Did go a little up it for slightly higher views and also wandered slightly around and went to some little church perched on the hillside.

1638 At Caravana for half chicken and chips. Bite me. Was going to go to El Palacio de La(s) Trucha(s) but they had stools on tables, not sure if were shutting or opening. Went to Iglesia de la Compañia de Jesus which was quite impressive - did like the fake spiral staircase painted on wall, though not as realistic as I might have hoped - but the miserable gits don't let you take photos. They charge double for foreigners too. Old bloke coming in next to me was asked where he was from and (I rather admire this) wanted to know why they wanted to know. Everyone thought he didn't understand the question instead of wanting to know why. He then asked why he had to pay to get in as it was a church, which made me wonder if he's just a bit of a curmudgeon instead of principled.

Didn't realise I had to... food here.

1733 Back at hotel. Spoke to reception (in Spanish) and woman called taxi firm, they think 2h to be on safe side to airport so I have a taxi booked for 615, will be USD30 - only 4 more than when I came out, it is kind of early morning/Sunday and hardly in a position to argue. In reality I think arriving at airport 3h early is a bit ridiculous but it gives me a safety margin. Doubtless traffic will be light and I'll get there 4h early but that's life^Wair travel.

0058 Bed. Bit late but I probably wouldn't have got to sleep much earlier anyway. Been surfing, packed of course, uploaded some photos, wifi worked on netbook tonight. Oh, did a bit of 'mental exercise' while up at top of Teleferico and managed to dispel a fair amount of the uncertainty worry. So that's good. Still not in full on 'woo, I'm on holiday' mode but it's an improvement.

Quito, Friday

1230 Up rather shocklingly late at 12, will probably head out shortly. Tis OK. Lunch then will see about a ticket for that tourist bus and hopefully do El Panecillo or the Teleferiqo or ideally both.

1255 At Palacio De La Trucha. Mmm. I even asked them to leave the salad undressed (badly; I need to get the vocabulary for that). Hope this doesn't disappoint...

1316 Feh, salad is dressed, oh well, maybe just an oversight or maybe the poor vocabulary didn't help.

1329 Was still pretty good though.

1459 On Quito Bus Tour. Been told Teleferiqo takes 2.5-3h so best to do it earlier in day. Have splurged USD12 on tour anyway, hopefully will at least visit El Panecillo. We passed the Teleferiqo, announcement said you have to walk 200m up road to connect to free shuttle bus to main entrance. Frankly given the bus only runs once an hour so afterwards you'd have to wait ages for it then wait while it trundles round rest of circuit before you can get off in centre I rather incline to not using the tour bus tomorrow but risking taxis to/from Teleferiqo. If I'd managed to be up at 9 to do the tour I could prob have got better value and waiting up to an hour for the next bus after Teleferiqo would have been borderline tolerable but I didn't want to leave everything til tomorrow, it being my last day, so decided to get tour bus today even though a smidge late in day.

The tour commentary (recorded) is a bit vapid and also hard to follow but meh.

1732 At Texas Chicken, struggled bit to find restaurant. Fucking numb after sitting on open topped bus all that time. Quito in general seems a bit cold, I tend to wear my jacket in hotel room for eg. Fingers stiff, hope nothing serious, prob just cold. It's warm in here for a change!

1839 Woo. Netbook absolutely refuses to connect to hotel wifi even though it's working on my phone. Fuck knows.

2115 Feeling pretty shitty. Had argument with Mum earlier, can't fucking book hotel in Bogota with no wifi on laptop, read guide book for Bogota and you absolutely cannot take taxi in street, turns out Bogota has similar climate to here which is a bit grim, probably just cos I am feeling down the guide book is giving me a nasty "everyone else is going to have a great time but you can't" vibe.

Views from El Panecillo were v good tho we only had 20 mins there (naturally more like 25 or 30 by time the laggards turned up) and I wasn't in the mood to wait for the next bus in an hour so it was a bit rushed but OK. I didn't go up to the balcony round the statue as it looked like you had to pay and I didn't want to waste the time.

I need to go to an internet cafe tomorrow to do online check in and print off boarding pass. Bit worried I am going to be too short of time to do Teleferiqo and not super happy about transport to/from it, though not looked that up in guide book yet. If I can get up by 9 or 10 it's probably OK but still not great.

Not going out tonight, had pretty much decided that this morning but definitely not. Not in mood and also as per above need to be up early and I also intended to use tonight to sort out Bogota, though thanks to wifi problem that hasn't happened yet. Do wonder if netbook might be developing age-related unreliability, but can't really draw that conclusion yet.

2238 Took netbook out into 'wifi zone', made no difference. Used dog slow shared computer to book a hotel in Bogota; seems a bit pricey but I got something in Candelaria which I think is right in the middle of a nightlifey kind of area so that may help alleviate taxi shit at night - even if I buy a local SIM it's still an enormously faffy challenge trying to call a taxi.

2257 Woohoo. I didn't realise I was in Bogota 7 nights so I had to go back out and book an extra night. Could have been worse, I thought it was 6 nights but I'd got the dates offset (I had, but the other mistake turned it into a subset error) which could have been harder to resolve. Fortunately they had a room free the extra night, which was Sunday coming, ie the nearest.

Oh, and my flight leaves Quito 1118. You have to be there three hours early for an international flight. It's up to two hours travel to the airport. So I need to be getting a fucking taxi at 0618 on Sunday morning. Yay! The new airport here is fucking ridiculous. Bloody hell, Heathrow isn't that fucking hard to get to.

Still no fucking joy on netbook wifi. Seriously not happy about just about everything.

2357 Had shower, towel getting a bit manky, they haven't changed it or the bedclothes since I arrived. Anyway. Bed, fingers crossed can drag myself out of bed tomorrow. Frankly it's almost at the point now where I just want to be in the hotel in Bogota with tomorrow's double taxi trip to the Teleferiqo and early start and needing to get to internet cafe and then the day after's joyous trip to the airport out of the way. Uncertainty regarding my future back in UK also starting to jar. Feh.

Quito, Thursday night

2025 At Quito Pub Beer on Foch. Getting somewhat pricey half litre (3.75) of the artesanal 'beer rubia'. Got trolleybus, it did a U-turn three quarters of the way here, fortunately I had already decided showing off my phone was a lesser evil than missing my stop through not using GPS. The signage is truly abysmal. Got off, managed to get another bus the one stop further I needed.

Walked along Foch, quite busy and some cops and some acceptablish taxis and it's not too intimidating, if I hadn't been scared shitless I'd feel fine. There are some hostels on this road and I honestly think walking one block along this road would be OK, though of course I have no way to judge really. Not looking forward to getting taxi back. Woman on desk half implied I have to be back before 1 even tho it's 24h reception but in reality I doubt I am going to push it any further than midnight or so anyway.

This place not amazing but nowhere super appealing and given I'm on edge and also don't want to find myself drinking 330ml bottles I thought this place would do, there was a menu outside so I could check the prices (some officious waiter/bouncer 'helped' me but meh). I'm sat outside and there are a few people here and borderline OK pop-ish music playing.

2034 Oh, altho I am not sure it would have been great, I couldn't find the karaoke bar was in yday afternoon. I thought it was on Foch but if it was the road seemed to become v dead before I got there and I just wasn't desperate enough to seek it out if it meant leaving the relatively bustling centre bit.

2047 Bastille's song whose name escapes me ("And the wals kept tumbling down") playing. Is it "Pompeii"? Still, nice to hear it.

2058 That went down almost worryingly easily. Trying the 'beer roja' (the menu is in Spanish, but it says 'beer') now. No percentages given but am assuming 5% and not drinking so much if it's 6% will be a disaster.

2108 Some sort of remix/cover of "Safety Dance". Weird. Were "Men Without Hats" Australian or am I getting confused?

2110 Toto's "Africa". The music has definitely been drifting back in time, but meh, sort of cool.

2113 Remix of "Another Brick In The Wall Part 2". Cab driver was playing the original on the drive back from Pululhau or whatever it's called.

2123 Midnight Oil, err, "Beds are burning"? Am enjoying the music tho. It's a bit odd my affinity for 80s pop given I don't have massive personal associations with it.

2134 Err "I just can't seem to get enough of you" OMD??? Oh no, it's the Human League isn't it?

2145 Third beer, trying the negra. On bus to MdM earlier was an obviously tourist couple. Followed them from trolley to bus to MdM at Owhatsit. I hope, but probably incorrectly, I am not so obviously touristy. When they spoke at Owhatsit realised they were Brits. They stayed on bus too long as well and were with me at terminal; I possibly regarded their presence as sign all was well, foolishly, but I thought I had read to stay on to end too. They spoke some Spanish as evidenced by them speaking to driver at terminal when we stayed on too long. Wonder if it's necessary here? Didn't try to scrape aquaintance with them, not in mood.

Slade "Cum On Feel The Noize".

2148 Stones, "Satisfaction". Getting busier here. Most tables outside occupied. Few people inside when went for a slash but not many. Smidge nippy out here but with heat lamps and jacket on tis OK.

2152 Black beer is v flavoursome, perhaps not quite to my taste but still. Other two OK but bit nondescript. It is amazing how small the 500ml glass looks. (They may be fiddling me but I don't think so.)

2154 "Everything counts in large amounts", no idea who is by.

2157 Depeche Mode, "Enjoy The Silence". I realise normally these litanies of song are interrupted by a chance social encounter. I don't think that probable here. It's OK. It's only a week since the last one. Maybe it's the sweet brown-ish liquor but I am feeling fairly good. Still not super happy at prospect of return trip but still.

2211 It is quite cool being here in this 'happening' area. I do appreciate my caution with taxis etc and general security worries erode whatever 'cool traveller' status one can acquire in this modern 'everyone travels' era, but for all that I feel quite cool being here and I'm glad I came. I just hope I don't regret it later!

2222 "You shook me all night long" AC/DC?

2229 Fourth beer, another negra. Am thinking maybe five and leave midnight. If I do get mugged want to be mellow. ;-)

2249 Meant to observe earlier, chuffed didn't spunk USD35ish on tour. Had it been possible, would only have done Inti whatsit musem extra, and had I got up a couple of hours earlier could have done that today too (not that bothered, next time, will be returning for view of that crater sans fog)

2256 Some Hombres G song don't remember name of playing. Allows me to bask in my albeit weak knowledge of Spanish language pop.

2300 Survivor, "Eye Of The Tiger".

2312 Getting a fifth. May push it to a sixth but no more. Modulo mugging etc on way home will prob come out tomorrow.

2318 La Union, "Lobo hombre en Paris". Good song and always also reminds me of my first visit to Mexico, it being played on the stereo in the car I was being given a lift in from Leon airport to my family in Guanajuato when I spoke little Spanish beyond 'callate'. ;-) I already knew the song thanks to Z being of a certain age and it made me feel a little more at home.

2331 Hombres G, Venezia. Not heard this much Hombres G in a while.

2335 Hombres G fest continues. "Te quiero"

2338 Will get one more beer - and the bill - and hope I don't regret it.

2340 Got beer after visit to bog - been after every beer, partly as learned from bitter experience not to get caught short and partly cos it provides feedback on being drunk - but no bill. Does occur to me that notwithstanding the inconvenience of losing my so-odd-I-had-to-import-it-from-US phone and any psychological issues (which might be minor or huge), if I do get mugged I'd lose about eighty dollars and an approximately seventy quid phone, which while non-negligible is not much less than I probably spend on some (rare) nights out in the UK and c [got bill, 22.50 but seems to include service so no tip] modulo the hassle and psychological issues seems a ridiculously small potential loss to get worked up over. I've lost more lending money to "friends". But the psychological factors are hard to balance, and even were I an emotionless robot (as I am sure some of my friends suspect) the hassle of losing my phone has some monetary value. But still, unless I get express kidnapped - and the woman at reception seemed to say that only happens in Guayaquil, pace F&CO, and I genuinely have no cards on me tho I wouldn't enjoy the prospect of express kidnappers discovering that - it is almost rationally ridiculous to worry about it.

0004 Did feel waiter bit disappointed at lack of explicit tip, maybe my imagination but it was there on bill which was certainly more than 3x3.75 for all it tax-mangled complexity. Nearly finished this beer so fingers crossed. I draw hope from fact the whole area is as lively if not more so than earlier.

0030 Back at hotel. Got taxi and felt totally safe. Driver engaged me in minor chat, I was perhaps overly honest saying things like Quito was beautiful but I was scared about taxis. Meh, if he doesn't like honesty fuck him.

Quito, Thursday

1411 I'm in the northern hemisphere. Got up 11ish, left hotel 12ish, public transport to Mitad del Mundo and managed to miss stop despite something I read saying to stay on to terminal. On bus back now. GPS shows I am north of equator here.

1446 At lookout, there is nothing but fog. Woman at tourist office at MdM did say 'but it's cloudy' but I didn't realise it would just be a wall of fog. I asked about half an hour wait instead of 20 mins when getting taxi and I thought we agreed to leave it open (10 vs 12 dollars) but I think the cunt has driven off instead of waiting so what's the betting he comes back after half an hour.

At least I tried.

1455 In cab on way back. Driver has stopped for a minute to go get something at a shop. Fingers crossed 10 dollars will do it, was there for more like 10 mins.

1530 At Yaravi restaurant in Mitad del Mundo park. Bit pricey but meh. Walked round monument on 'equator', straddled the line but no photo taken. Planetarium (which costs extra) shut, insectarium (free) shut, meh. If I'd read guide book I would have seen there is a company doing hikes from here round the crater rim; as it happens of course nothing to see, so at worst I wasted ten dollars on the cab when they might have told me there'd be no view. Next time maybe. Went round a little exhibit of photos of mountains which was OK. Not v busy here and of course v overcast. Frankly whole thing seems a bit pointless but I guess I've kind of ticked it off and I'm not really actively annoyed, at least I made the effort to come and succeeded in that sense.

I didn't go in the ethnographic museum inside the monument; I wasn't that fussed and the idea of paying a further USD3 on top of the 3 I already paid to get in didn't appeal.

1604 I had the churrasco, which is basically lomo a lo pobre. Not v good really, least appetising fried eggs I have seen in a while, meat a bit tough but OKish, at least french fries were nice. Bill 13, I need to break a 20 but will probably make it 14.50 then wander round any free little buildings missed and try to get bus back. Will probably be dark when I arrive but prob be OK, if I consult GPS I prob don't have too far to walk when get off bus, and this has at least given me a chance to ride on the trolleybuses.

1941 Terrible time at La Ofelia, thought it would be easy since it's the trolleybus terminal but nooooo... After basically losing it I got a diesel bus back OK, had to fight to get off too. I travelled for free however as I am still not sure when I am supposed to have paid.

Spoke to oldish woman on reception when got back and going to get trolleybus up to Mariscal and cab with plaques and shit on the way back. Not thinking this is going to be great but I guess it has to be done. Not quite ready to leave yet but will send this now anyway.

Quito, Wednesday

1120 Got up about 11 which is bit weak but could be worse. Sufficiently cold and damp here clothes I washed night before last still damp despite being hung on washing line. Phone keeps freezing as I write this. Topping up charge as while is socket behind bed it's a bit awkward to use so I haven't been trying.

Blog entries perhaps been bit short lately but mainly because not even been trying to do anything outside in evening. Maybe Thu night onward I will.

1219 At Post Office (tiny one) in Pasaje Arzobispal, *not* where half a dozen websites said it was at Espejo 900something, had to ask a cop then a mall security guard to find it. Twelve fucking dollars to send four postcards!

Went in tour office next to hotel, I can buy tickets for the hop on hop off city bus tour outside Compania de Jesus, which is handy as prob go there anyway. Not sure if will do that today as already lost half day but prob will. I somehow doubt it is sunny and clear for views at 10am but not at 11 and am I really going to drag myself out of bed? Anyway, they do a tour to La Mitad del Muno (yay, fascinating) and Pwhatsit crater but it's USD70 solo and they were a bit fuzzy and shit about hooking me up with a group. Left email address and will try another tour operator after lunch.

1232 At El Palacio de las Truchas, getting trucha a la plancha with chips and (no diet soft drinks) a bottle of sparkling water, the latter being something of a rarity lately.

1309 OK, that was very good, whole trout so some bones but still. I ate some of the skin since it was grilled, never sure if that's OK but meh.

Place is in Flores. USD7.25, didn't tip as you pay at cash desk as often seems case here. Excellent value.

1356 OK, just been to the only other tour agent in old town listed in guide book (one went this morning is other). They have no organised tour either, but I can get a taxi out and back for USD35 or I can do it myself on public transport to Mitad del Mundo then get a taxi from there. Taxi would be 6 or 7 with waiting time, two buses (so four all in) about a dollar or two. I dunno. Might be cool but might be a stress. Also am I going to end up getting lost at the site Pwhatsit, which I can't pronounce. I am torn. I might see if walking over to Mariscal is an option (I am assuming it's safe during day) and talking to some tour agencies there would help. If I can get a tour for USD35ish plus 7ish entrances fees (per person fee at place this morning with 2 or more people) then it's a lot less stress plus I'd get to tick off Mitad del Mundo/Inti whatsit as a side bonus. On the other hand it would be pretty cool to do it myself. Guy said I can trust a taxi which has the video cameras etc, dunno if he meant here in Quito too, I didn't probe. All this is English BTW.

Guide book said Quito is easiest place in Ecuador to arrange tours. What a crock of shit. Basically the whole of today is going to be wasted trying to sort out a tour at this rate. Maybe I should just do it myself. I honestly don't give a shit about Mitad del Mundo (tho actually I could probably see that before getting bus back), it's not even on the fucking equator according to guide book, the experiments are bullshit (I already knew that, and if it's not really on the equator how could they work even if genuine?).

1506 In small deserted Quito Antiguo karaoke bar in Mariscal. Bars here but not the Banghlamphu-esque quality to the area I expected. Fairly quiet. (Guide book says not to walk round here at weekend when it's quiet IIRC. WTF, it's the main tourist area but it's dead at the weekend?) One tour agency closed, another only private tours. I think I'm going to chance it solo tomorrow. Come in here for beer. I do see from map and conversation had in tour agency hour or two ago the trolleybus runs up here from near my hotel. Dunno if that would be safe or useful to come back after night out. May chance street taxi with video cameras tomorrow night, I suppose in part doing it rarely is safer than doing it every night. Also frankly impossible to get true idea of risk from F&CO site. It mentions three specific cases over the last couple of years. I think it says 50k brits visit a year, in which case are the odds that low? And did they just get into unmarked cars? Without context it becomes meaningless. Like so much else it seems to be well-meaning but leave the risk dangling like a dangerous anti-carrot without really quantifying it properly. How likely is this risk compared to eg getting run over?

Walked over here. Not that far really, tho a street handily shut en route. Walked through some parks, fine during day. In other cities I just might walk it at night but here probably imprudent.

Got some sunburn on head.

1558 I think I might have another. The sun has actually come out outside. I'm oddly fed up, perhaps the tour shit or looming doubt re return to UK or nagging safety concerns, it's a bit late to do any museum/church tourism today and fuck it. The beer wasn't orgasmically satisfying, which is a mild surprise (if not an entirely unpleasant one) since I've not had a drop since Sunday and that was a microscopic 330ml (on the Henry Morgan) and it was Friday before that. I guess the fact it's not hot here is a contributing factor. I'll have another, just possibly a third, then walk back. I saw a shop with fruit nearby, I will get a couple of bananas at least.

A low droning reveals the karaoke is in the next room over. Definitely not my scene under these circumstances.

1616 Got second. A trip to bog reveals the other room is occupied exclusively by a couple sat at one of the tables singing. Feel oddly guilty about this second beer but fuck it, just fuck it.

1631 Rereading Bill Bryson's "Notes from a Sunburned Country" and the little details remind me I should maybe make more entries about such stuff. When I got this beer I went and paid at the bar, but the barmaid disappeared while I was sorting out my change to try to dispose of some shrapnel. When she reappeared she took my money but gave me no beer. Thinking she thoght I was paying for the last one I started to protest but she said it was already on the table. Odd. I'm pretty sure going to the bar was the expected thing to do.

1719 Third. Beer again carried to table for me, this time by a second barmaid. Taking my influence from both Bryson and the beer I am trying to find it charming that the bar struggles to find change for a 2.50 beer when paid for with a 5 note.

1904 Back at hotel. Walked. Starting to get dark as left and bars starting to show life, bit annoyed I couldn't stay but meh. Walked back, getting dark, bit nervous but in reality felt OK despite couple of detours down side streets due to that blocked off road. Wish I could get solid risk data on everything I worry about then I could tell myself not to be irrational when minor fears crop up. I mean, getting mugged not likely, chances of dying slimmer still and would my life really be more ruined having been mugged than being fearful in anticipation? Hard questions esp with no solid data.

1913 For record F&CO site says around 22.8k Brits visited Ecuador last year (most trouble free) not 50k, but earlier musings still stand.

Quito, Tuesday

1329 At some Chinese restaurant off Plaza del Teatro (I think that's what it's called), just went in small place on corner, sat at only free table, told I had to pay at counter, then by the time I did my table had gone so I just had to leave. It was only USD2 but still annoying. Good job I forgot to order a drink.

Little girl came up I thought she was selling crap so I ignored her. A woman then gave me the menu and I realised that was what the girl was offering. Oh well. She didn't say anything and so I assumed it was a portfolio of tat she was offering.

Went to Basilica del Voto Nacional this morning (oh, I left hotel about 1130, not great but could be worse), that was OK inside but going up the clock tower (one of them) and the other tower v cool, some v steep ladders up to the non-clock tower so moderately chuffed with myself. Good views though been v overcast all morning and spitting rain. The non-clock-tower access is via gift shop so if I hadn't been looking for it I'd have perhaps missed it.

1337 Tremendous difficulty with the order. Singapore noodles no problem but trying to get a diet/zero coke to go with it a bit fraught. Fingers crossed.

Found smal shop selling fruit on way over here from basilica, due to the usual washing problems I just got a couple of bananas, it's a start and may get chance to buy some fruit when I am on way back to hotel later.

I am kind of following the walking tour in the guide book in reverse, I did look at it last night and have a list of things I want to do but basilica was one of them and for first day didn't fancy dicking around with tours, also the opportunity to walk round a bit will help me get my bearings and see what's nearby.

Got diet coke, woohoo. Hope didn't come across as rude to waitress, I am possibly a bit surly after what happened at previous restaurant and the linguistic difficulty was annoying.

1402 Food OK if not great but absolutely nothing like I expected, and drenched in an excessive quantity of OK-but-not-in-these-volumes sauce. Feh.

1437 Lingered far too long reading on phone, let's pay up and go.

1655 At Bar Restaurant y Cafeteria El Cisne just off Plaza San Francisco. Been to Museo de la Ciudad which was OK but bit of a maze leading to much 'have I missed anything?', saw nearby steps up to El Panecillo which are too dangerous to use, Plaza Grande and Plaza San Francisco. Getting chicken and chips here, no diet soft drinks so having water, I see they do juices as well so if they have grapefruit juice as advertised I may get one of those as well. Back to hotel hopefully via fruit shop after this.

Quito, Monday

1626 Wifi doesn't work on my phone in the 'wifi zone' on the landing outside my room or down in reception. I asked the receptionist and she says it's working. I've rebooted my phone. Fuck knows. At least unlike my confusion in Tacna I am virtually certain this isn't wrong password. I asked the receptionist for it again for the third (ground floor) network.

Oh, and my Peruvian Claro SIM never gives me anything but 'emergency calls only' since I've been in Ecuador, so I can't use the otherwise useless credit on that to eke a text out to parents. Fucking shitty hotel wifi. Fucking rip off mobile companies ane their fucking global roaming scam.

1751 Been out for food and brief walk. Didn't go v far as bit edgy and it's not that far off dark and it's cold - I knew it was up in Andes so coolish and think guidebook even has a chart showing daily temp range 10-20C all year round but didn't expect it to be this cold (I exaggerate a little; it does seem cold even with jacket on but it's not freezing). It's also thoroughly overcast which adds to the cold feeling. Wifi still not working on phone anywhere, may lug laptop out to public area in a bit. At least tonight I can sketch out a rough itinerary, as is a lot to see both in and around Quito.

Found a Movistar shop and super helpful chap activated my SIM in another phone. I have received an activation SMS but attempt to SMS parents failed. Not fiddled too heavily, may do that tonight, I think bloke today said the SIM would come with credit but not sure, may look on web how to check balance.

Went for really quite pricey at USD8.25 'parrilla individual' at a fast-food style outlook Menestras del Negro in mini food court next to a KFC. Not bad though. Got to try what I think are menestras, fortunately served (unusually) in a bowl, they are a bit like spicy frijoles served in ultra-watery liquid. They are quite nice but they should be drained IMO, the liquid ruins the convenience and given they were in a bowl and I had no spoon I am not sure how you're supposed to consume the liquid.

Quito seems v attractive in parts esp with the multi-level construction (saw quite a bit from taxi) but right now it seems cold and a bit scary with the personal safety concerns.

1755 Fuck, forgot to buy any water. Do have maybe 300ml which I smuggled with me from Guayaquil and prob be enough but let's go out and see if there's a shop handy, I think there is.

1803 Yes, prob several options but there was a small bakery round the corner which had water. Was tempted to buy a croissant or bun or something but I'm not really hungry and I've been gorging a little bit the last few days anyway so didn't. Wasn't an enormous temptation. (Not to sound too self-denying virtuous, reluctantly or otherwise. If I'd really wanted one I think I would have. I mean, I've hardly been drinking anything and generally been fairly good with fruit and veg and (it does count for something) I am on holiday.)

1816 Guidebook says typically sunny in morning and rainy in afternoon here. March is also second wettest month. I maybe need to try to get up earlier then.

1833 Incidentally I am aware it's St Patrick's Day but not in the least interested in trying to go out on that account. Quite apart from the logistical difficulties, it's not as if I tend to go out for it in London. Not really in the mood to desperately try to scrape aquaintance with fellow travellers even if this is an excuse for a party. Not *seen* anything about it, BTW, but it's on my phone calendar and I just scrolled past an Irish bar in guide book which prompted me to make this observation.

1852 Sat down in reception with laptop, wifi doesn't work here either. It must be both of my pieces of equipment which are faulty.

ISTR (when I had Desire Z) having this at one place in Thailand - people were sat using it in the cafe and I couldn't - but it either worked intermittently or some hack made it work on the phone. I can't remember, not sure it would help anyway. Here I haven't seen anyone else obviously using the wifi.

There is one shared PC on the landing outside my room but it's always in use, not that it's a good solution anyway. What a fucking crock of shit.

1903 Given up. Just maybe it will work later or the internet PC will be free. I can't believe both of my pieces of equipment are incapable of connecting when I sit right in the common areas. Maybe they are. But I don't think I've ever had permanent connection failure like that; in my room, yes, in public areas, no. I am not entirely convinced the router isn't hosed; OTOH the fact there are three networks and none work suggests otherwise. OT3H, I have not observed such use of a shared network PC for a while, which carries some slight suggestion of wifi fuckery to me, but then OT4H surely in that case receptionist would know. Fuck a doodle do.

1937 Mirabile dictu, both my phone and laptop just connected within thirty seconds of each other sat in my room. First thought was of course to shepherd out the emails from my outbox, then I am no longer desperate to use the internet PC (a faff requiring use of a printed backup GMail code or putting my UK SIM back in to receive the security code). So perhaps there was a glitch and it's now resolved. Still, make the most of it while I can.