Quito, Wednesday

1120 Got up about 11 which is bit weak but could be worse. Sufficiently cold and damp here clothes I washed night before last still damp despite being hung on washing line. Phone keeps freezing as I write this. Topping up charge as while is socket behind bed it's a bit awkward to use so I haven't been trying.

Blog entries perhaps been bit short lately but mainly because not even been trying to do anything outside in evening. Maybe Thu night onward I will.

1219 At Post Office (tiny one) in Pasaje Arzobispal, *not* where half a dozen websites said it was at Espejo 900something, had to ask a cop then a mall security guard to find it. Twelve fucking dollars to send four postcards!

Went in tour office next to hotel, I can buy tickets for the hop on hop off city bus tour outside Compania de Jesus, which is handy as prob go there anyway. Not sure if will do that today as already lost half day but prob will. I somehow doubt it is sunny and clear for views at 10am but not at 11 and am I really going to drag myself out of bed? Anyway, they do a tour to La Mitad del Muno (yay, fascinating) and Pwhatsit crater but it's USD70 solo and they were a bit fuzzy and shit about hooking me up with a group. Left email address and will try another tour operator after lunch.

1232 At El Palacio de las Truchas, getting trucha a la plancha with chips and (no diet soft drinks) a bottle of sparkling water, the latter being something of a rarity lately.

1309 OK, that was very good, whole trout so some bones but still. I ate some of the skin since it was grilled, never sure if that's OK but meh.

Place is in Flores. USD7.25, didn't tip as you pay at cash desk as often seems case here. Excellent value.

1356 OK, just been to the only other tour agent in old town listed in guide book (one went this morning is other). They have no organised tour either, but I can get a taxi out and back for USD35 or I can do it myself on public transport to Mitad del Mundo then get a taxi from there. Taxi would be 6 or 7 with waiting time, two buses (so four all in) about a dollar or two. I dunno. Might be cool but might be a stress. Also am I going to end up getting lost at the site Pwhatsit, which I can't pronounce. I am torn. I might see if walking over to Mariscal is an option (I am assuming it's safe during day) and talking to some tour agencies there would help. If I can get a tour for USD35ish plus 7ish entrances fees (per person fee at place this morning with 2 or more people) then it's a lot less stress plus I'd get to tick off Mitad del Mundo/Inti whatsit as a side bonus. On the other hand it would be pretty cool to do it myself. Guy said I can trust a taxi which has the video cameras etc, dunno if he meant here in Quito too, I didn't probe. All this is English BTW.

Guide book said Quito is easiest place in Ecuador to arrange tours. What a crock of shit. Basically the whole of today is going to be wasted trying to sort out a tour at this rate. Maybe I should just do it myself. I honestly don't give a shit about Mitad del Mundo (tho actually I could probably see that before getting bus back), it's not even on the fucking equator according to guide book, the experiments are bullshit (I already knew that, and if it's not really on the equator how could they work even if genuine?).

1506 In small deserted Quito Antiguo karaoke bar in Mariscal. Bars here but not the Banghlamphu-esque quality to the area I expected. Fairly quiet. (Guide book says not to walk round here at weekend when it's quiet IIRC. WTF, it's the main tourist area but it's dead at the weekend?) One tour agency closed, another only private tours. I think I'm going to chance it solo tomorrow. Come in here for beer. I do see from map and conversation had in tour agency hour or two ago the trolleybus runs up here from near my hotel. Dunno if that would be safe or useful to come back after night out. May chance street taxi with video cameras tomorrow night, I suppose in part doing it rarely is safer than doing it every night. Also frankly impossible to get true idea of risk from F&CO site. It mentions three specific cases over the last couple of years. I think it says 50k brits visit a year, in which case are the odds that low? And did they just get into unmarked cars? Without context it becomes meaningless. Like so much else it seems to be well-meaning but leave the risk dangling like a dangerous anti-carrot without really quantifying it properly. How likely is this risk compared to eg getting run over?

Walked over here. Not that far really, tho a street handily shut en route. Walked through some parks, fine during day. In other cities I just might walk it at night but here probably imprudent.

Got some sunburn on head.

1558 I think I might have another. The sun has actually come out outside. I'm oddly fed up, perhaps the tour shit or looming doubt re return to UK or nagging safety concerns, it's a bit late to do any museum/church tourism today and fuck it. The beer wasn't orgasmically satisfying, which is a mild surprise (if not an entirely unpleasant one) since I've not had a drop since Sunday and that was a microscopic 330ml (on the Henry Morgan) and it was Friday before that. I guess the fact it's not hot here is a contributing factor. I'll have another, just possibly a third, then walk back. I saw a shop with fruit nearby, I will get a couple of bananas at least.

A low droning reveals the karaoke is in the next room over. Definitely not my scene under these circumstances.

1616 Got second. A trip to bog reveals the other room is occupied exclusively by a couple sat at one of the tables singing. Feel oddly guilty about this second beer but fuck it, just fuck it.

1631 Rereading Bill Bryson's "Notes from a Sunburned Country" and the little details remind me I should maybe make more entries about such stuff. When I got this beer I went and paid at the bar, but the barmaid disappeared while I was sorting out my change to try to dispose of some shrapnel. When she reappeared she took my money but gave me no beer. Thinking she thoght I was paying for the last one I started to protest but she said it was already on the table. Odd. I'm pretty sure going to the bar was the expected thing to do.

1719 Third. Beer again carried to table for me, this time by a second barmaid. Taking my influence from both Bryson and the beer I am trying to find it charming that the bar struggles to find change for a 2.50 beer when paid for with a 5 note.

1904 Back at hotel. Walked. Starting to get dark as left and bars starting to show life, bit annoyed I couldn't stay but meh. Walked back, getting dark, bit nervous but in reality felt OK despite couple of detours down side streets due to that blocked off road. Wish I could get solid risk data on everything I worry about then I could tell myself not to be irrational when minor fears crop up. I mean, getting mugged not likely, chances of dying slimmer still and would my life really be more ruined having been mugged than being fearful in anticipation? Hard questions esp with no solid data.

1913 For record F&CO site says around 22.8k Brits visited Ecuador last year (most trouble free) not 50k, but earlier musings still stand.