Quetzaltenango, Thursday

1626 At Sabor de la India. As recommended by guidebook, ordering a thali (lamb) and on my own advice getting a litre of Cabro. This will weigh in at 70+35 plus tip but tis OK, it's an experience. I am only person here, which is absolutely fine by me.

Sort of packed (a carrier bag with to-be-shipped items and a pile of to-take-with-me stuff next to it on bed) and cleaned flat, done a tolerable job I think considering no vacuum cleaner and difficult to get all hairs (most of them too long to be mine) up but probably OK.

Have arranged to meet owner at 1330 tomorrow to hand over keys. This means can have classes 8-1 again and still prob have time to move over to Casa Argentina before language exchange. Rather not be but I can also turn up a bit late at lang exchange if necessary since it's not as if anyone is waiting specifically for me.

Class OK, I paid the teacher 125 at end and also paid for his tea (admittedly only one) and I had three cups of coffee at Q10 each (cafe bill was Q40.70 but ended up making it Q46 with tip). TBH this isn't much cheaper for me than the slightly sub-200ish I would pay via school, but I am guessing he is better off even charging me only Q25 an hour compared to what the school pays him out of their charge. Am thinking tomorrow I will give him Q300 including the Q125 he has explicitly earned; this is "only" a Q175 tip but it's a nice round number and I am buying his drinks. Depends how I feel, I just might shove an extra 20 on depending on change at hand etc.

Teacher is apparently part of a documentary he made over three years with some students of his, it's called (from memory) "San Martin: Santo o Diablo" but as I write that I am very unsure I've remembered the name (second word) right. Have it written down back at flat. Apparently teacher had spent many years travelling round researching this and planned to write a book but ended up making this documentary.

Did vaguely wonder if should invite teacher over here for dinner or whatever (he told me some students have done this when discussing tips a couple of weeks ago) but I'm not doing that *and* tipping him, and given his apparent financial situation and Christmas coming I'm sure he'd rather have the cash than an unnecessarily expensive meal.

1653 That was, I must say pretty good. I would have liked more rice - there was just a smallish bit in middle of circular dish with four compartments round edge - but perhaps that's how a thali is, not sure have had one before. Didn't look like that much food but I do feel pleasantly full. Got plenty of beer left and not hurrying off. A (presumably local) family have come in now and sat at nearby table.

No idea whether Keralan (which IIRC guide book this probably is) food is meant to be generally spicy but this was pleasantly but very comfortably spicy, definitely nothing extreme.

1746 Nearly finished beer. Feel surprisingly pissed but not a big deal. Not reeling drunk - it's a litre, FFS - but more than I'd expect for a leisurely litre with food.

1756 Got my Q80 change entirely in fives but not really a problem. Of course if I hadn't been stashing small bills ready for trip anyway this wouldn't have happened.

2021 Mildly odd. Popped into La Liga and caught tail end of a perhaps informal gig by Julio (singer of band met back at Trova Rock) and another guy, Julio (assuming I have his name right) exchanged a few sentences with me as they left.

Why am I here? Well Sean got in touch to say there was a "thing" (my term) at school at 8, perhaps a dance. I said yes, on way over started to doubt this and indeed when I got there director and a chap who was perhaps instructor were at door and (kudos) director invited me in without any fuss even though I left yday but they said it was a dance class and I dithered and said I'd give it a miss, but thanks for offering to let me in. Bumped in Sean and Jolene a few metres up street as I was leaving, they said it was a new dance so no one knew it and do it for the craic etc but having already said no at the door perhaps out of foolish consistency (with my statement of a few seconds ago at door, and also with fact I had avoided these classes all time was at school) said I'd give it a miss. Bit of a shame but not a big deal.

The impromptu dance class at Atitlan the other weekend was semi-fun and semi-stressful because I don't feel I "get" it quickly and it doesn't feel fair/comfortable on my partner. I did it in part just to join in and in part due to there being an odd woman if I hadn't that time at lake. I don't *like* being crap at something, but I can handle it; what gets borderline intolerable is being crap at a non-solo activity.

Anyway, with a pseudo-logic I decided having come out I'd come and have a couple here instead of going straight home. And then I saw the band on (now gone, as I say).

Moderately busy so sitting at bar but not desperately looking to chat.

Need to be careful not to slip over when get back as floor is still wet from earlier and even wearing my shoes I have nearly gone over once or twice earlier.

2104 Having second (US) probably pint, then go home. Sweating like a bastard in my fleece, no idea why.

2116 Nearly finished. Beers were Q10 each, will leave Q5 on bar and go. Feel OK but too hot and slightly meh.

2122 Home. I went up on roof terrace to take some night photos and have a bit of a look earlier (1915ish) BTW. Pleasantly cool outside on v brief walk home after hot bar.

2143 Bed. Not exactly tired but seems no reason to stay up.

Quetzaltenango, Wednesday

1529 At La Luna, doesn't look like anyone else is turning up, will go when finished coffee.

School OK, got a diploma which while having no real value as such is maybe a nice souvenir. Turned down opportunity to have it presented to me in the break! Not seen anyone else take this up either...

Forgot to say yesterday that I accidentally had bought a tin of sweetcorn with no ring pull and had no tin opener. I managed to get it sufficiently open using a penknife thing found in kitchen drawer to (just) shake the individual kernels out. What may be a world first in foolish tin opening incidents is that - brace yourself - I did this without drawing blood! I fear I have burned up a month's luck ration in that one event.

School drinks etc tonight, bit salsa-oriented but tis OK. They are starting with happy hour at some hotel at 5:45 but I will join them at Bajo La Luna at 7.

Huge number of ppl from school seem to be doing Atitlan trek with QT a week on Saturday. Mixed blessing, might have been nice to know most of group already but OTOH perhaps good to meet new people.

Meeting teacher at 8 tomorrow morning at La Cafetera; won't mention this to any other students in case they accidentally mention it in presence of anyone at school who might get upset by our private arrangement.

Went to Xelapan early and got two of those rock things - they are "piedras", hence my mental hash table collision - and two other bready things. Ate those (except one piedra) as snack while back at flat before coming over here. Also did some laundry because I am trying to minimise wetness of clothes before need to move on Fri and the trek. I have five " changes" of clothes (not trousers, but that's different) so I need to be careful so have Fri-Mon inclusive all with clean clothes without needing to wash any. Ideally I'd have Fri-Tue and would perhaps do some minor re-wearing of clothes when it doesn't matter, but we'll see how it goes.

When go home - be it shortly or 5ish if anyone turns up, unlikely as that is (not complaining, I did sort of chance it) - will do homework and cook gutbusting rice dish. Won't cook after tonight, plan is to clean flat tomorrow and go out for lunch/dinner on Thu, one of those meals probably at Sabor de la India.

Tried to withdraw some cash on Barclaycard at a few places in hope (following conversation with another student) of not getting stung with a fee, but so far everything is *worse* than using my Starling debit card at 5B - even at 5B the Barclaycard is worse.

If do leave here shortly may try some of the banks round La Democracia instead of going straight home.

1545 Let's go.

1623 Home via La Democracia banks. No joy. Rough summary from memory: withdrawing Q2000 on my Barclaycard (Visa), 5B and BAC want to charge Q39 (if that's wrong for 5B, it's still more than the Q31 they charge on my Starling card) and BI want to charge USD4 (which is *roughly* Q31, but TBH if I'm withdrawing quetzales (and on a UK card too) WTF show me the fee in USD instead of Q?). Banrural don't seem to have cash machines and/or seem to have 5B machines.

It may be the "free" withdrawals that other student mentioned (he just said "the red one" , didn't know name of bank) only works on Mastercard. (He has Halifax Clarity card.) My Starling card is probably Mastercard but it's a debit card and as waffled at length in Antigua on arrival, a lot of machines don't seem to like it at all, regardless of what fee they might like to charge. Guide book does say something about credit cards generally working better than debit.

Yes, Starling is Mastercard anyway. And looking on web Halifax Clarity is Mastercard, so while it may be there is no free option, this does at least mean my speculation *might* be cause. I didn't bring my HC because it's not interest free on cash wd, you have to go and explicitly pay the balance off ASAP. If it did mean I could get fee-free wd it would be worth paying the few pence interest, but anyway, I didn't bring mine.

Q31.20 or whatever on a Q2000 wd at 5B (with no fees from Starling) is not great but - as is obvious, since I have been tolerating it - it is tolerable.

Going to have a shower now while it's daylight and sunny.

2144 Just got home.

Called parents about 1715 as matter of routine and they told me our little black cat had died, Mum found her this morning. Bit upset.

Nothing to do with that, I cooked and did homework and was racing the clock a bit as wanted to be at Bajo La Luna for 7 but in the end I didn't get there til 745ish. With the three bread things (one pretty large) at lunch and a big portion of rice+stuff I was feeling almost sick after eating.

Had not quite a litre of Cabro at BLL while others ate. We were going to go to Pool & Beer at 930ish (original plan was to be there at 9) but it was raining - TBH not that hard in my opinion, though a lot of water in street meaning cars could splash us as we walked - and we more-or-less unanimously decided to go home. *Slightly* disappointed as my last night (sort of) but also given even now I feel uncomfortably full I'm not too bothered about coming home. Sean connected with me on whatsapp so just may end up seeing him/others Thu/Fri night (obviously taking it easy if Fri night, especially if risk of getting back lateish at CA and dog having a go), if not no harm done. Always a slim chance I will still be round Atitlan next Mon/Tue when a lot of those guys arrive on the 3 day hike as well. See what happens.

Yawning a bit. Might as well clean teeth and go to bed. I have the few bits of uw washed earlier on clothesline on balcony but rain doesn't seem to be reaching them and will leave them out.

Let me just e-mail owner to see if can set up meeting for Fri to hand over keys.

2220 He replied v quickly and is willing to meet me at 1 or 2pm despite official checkout being 12. Won't reply until spoken to teacher tomorrow. Tempting to say 2 so I can have classes til 2 but given I want to get over to CA and check in and drop off bag and get to lang exchange for 3 might be pushing it. OTOH might not. I could perhaps ask for 1:30. No need - even tho feel there is - to reply tonight, as I say will talk to teacher tomorrow before replying.

FWIW the waterproof lining on these walking shoes does appear to work; outer vaguely felt-looking fabric is pretty wet but my feet aren't. Obviously this only goes so far - if any water gets into the opening in the top you're screwed - but still, good to see it works

2238 Bed.

Quetzaltenango, Monday

1748 Very pink sky for sunset. Went out on balcony and admired view while listening to brass band somewhere nearby practising "How Deep Is Your Love" .

Got into school about 20 mins late. Left phone on charge overnight, woke at an unknown time to find it had turned off but showing 75% charge. AFAICT the battery ran down to nothing despite it being plugged in, at approx 4am it powered off due to dead battery and then whatever shit was stopping it charging could no longer interfere and it started to charge again - but as it was off, the alarm didn't go off. By sheer chance it was 0805ish when I looked at my watch. I could have slept til 11am or whatever.

This is bollocks. I didn't go to bed pissed at 3am. I didn't forget to set the alarm or charge the phone. The fucking thing just let me down big time. Of course Android magically manages processes and the battery, so there's no way I can tell what the fuck happened, because IT'S MAGIC. Apparently no app was responsible for this, so maybe it just didn't happen? What happens next time I need to be up at 5am for a tour or to catch a flight? Crock of fucking shit. I will have to get a digital watch with an alarm on.

Went to supermarket (two in fact, since Mas y Mas near El Calvario has replaced all the tuna with sardines - I even asked a MoS) and also Xelapan (been meaning to try their stuff) on way home, also got a lime and some (different) mixed chopped veg outside Mercado Las Flores. Cooked gutbusting portion of rice, tuna and veg then gorged on the three different things got from Xelapan - pretty good.

Went up on roof terrace this afternoon, took some photos and admired view a bit. Will try to go up at night, maybe tonight but if not another night before I go.

Casa Argentina have confirmed via e-mail for Fri night. School was OK, teacher didn't seem upset about me cancelling w other agency, I told him truthfully I would rather have used them but QT were able to promise it would happen. He told me some things about QT which I won't repeat here in public.

He also told me someone (I think; as always I don't like to probe for maximum clarity when he's telling me sensitive stuff) has stolen something related to his electricity meter, it will cost Q700-odd to fix and he doesn't have the money so he has had no electricity for a week except a neighbour lets him have a bit via an extension lead when it's dark. I do believe him but at same time can't help nagging "size of tip" thoughts at back of head. Based on the odd conversation I am not sure any other students plan to tip their teachers. Meh. We are confirmed for private lessons Thu and Fri (tho Fri is difficult due to needing to meet owner here to hand over keys and move bag to CA and hopefully attend language exchange and go to pre-hike meeting) at Q25 an hour.

Should really be getting some serious study time in tonight but feel pretty lazy and slightly nervous about rest of week/weekend. Feh.

1922 Quick read of guide book and poke on booking.com and I've just booked a ho(s)tel in San Pedro to check in Mon and out Thu; it's not in guide book and may be a smidge out of town but I'm not too worried. I got a bit confused about the prices shown on booking.com and assumed they were per night when they were of course for the total stay (3 nights). So I could arguably have splurged more, but WTF. Q150 inc taxes for three nights for queen room with shared bathroom; shared bathroom is not ideal but I can take a gamble on laundry service I guess. If I'm not happy there I can always switch somewhere else after.

Don't have rock solid plans for rest of time yet but it looks from guide book like there are a couple of accessible walks/hikes from San Pedro so looks like a good base for a few days anyway. All I really want to do in Antigua is an Acatenango hike and ideally an in-person lesson with my Spanish teacher, so I don't need to be there *too* sharpish (especially if I can book an Acatenango tour by e-mail, which I should look into once I am in San Pedro) and I vaguely hope to be able to spend a week round Lake Atitlan, maybe all in San Pedro but we'll see. TBH it feels like spending a week there would still give me too much time in Antigua but we'll have to see how things pan out; I don't want to be too rushed and just maybe if I have 'too much' time I could spend a day or two in Guatemala City.

1939 Trying to work out how much cash I need to withdraw and how much to tip teacher, I just checked old e-mails and at the end of Wednesday I will have been at the new school for three weeks. (So I *think* it will be six weeks studying Spanish in total come Friday, ignoring the lost day due to public holiday and the lost half day when I walked out of old school.) That means total spend at new school will be Q2925. I don't feel compelled to tip eg 10%, it doesn't really feel like that sort of situation, TBH I kind of feel I shouldn't have to tip at all here. I am not worrying about the extra two days' private lessons as in a rough finger-in-air thing like this two days is nothing, plus I suspect teacher is doing *better* for himself with the private lessons even at Q25/h compared to what works out at Q39/h (ignoring the fact it's really only 4.5h a day not 5h) I am paying the school.

I'll be honest, even before doing the above calculation I was leaning to giving him Q200 as a tip. This feels *slightly* extravagant in that it's not an insignificant sum to me, but it's about 6% which isn't insane and it's also almost exactly the cost of one days' classes at the school. I may end up rounding this slightly up or down when it comes to paying for the private classes to make a round sum in cash to hand over, but I think this is a reasonable approximate figure. Q200 isn't insignificant to me but it's not like it's going to substantially increase the overall cost of the trip or anything, and notwithstanding a slight "telling me about money problems in a way which might be genuinely because he feels he can trust me and which might be slightly hinting at a good tip" business, he has on the whole been a pretty good teacher who I've felt comfortable with.

Another way of looking at it is I think I'd want to tip an absolute minimum of Q100 and so the "discretionary" amount I'm putting on top is only another Q100, i.e. ten quid. While not huge he has also probably saved me Q5 on the (admittedly relatively rare, lately) occasions I have eaten in a comedor and tipped only Q5 instead of Q10.

So yeah, probably Q200ish tip.

2146 Had shower, will go to bed shortly. Not tired but not not-tired and might as well go to bed. Entered tiny amount of vocabulary backlog from classes into app.

Still not bought another razor and have a few cuts from shaving earlier tonight, oh well.

Probably be doing the Xelaaid English activity tomorrow but we'll see, if it's not on will probably go to language exchange.

Tue 2359 Just realised I forgot to send this e-mail yesterday, hence it appearing out of sequence on blog, but I did write it on Monday, except for this bit.

Quetzaltenango, Tuesday

2346 Quickish entry before bed.

School OK, nothing overly special to say. English thing at XelaAid was on so said I'd do that. Went for lunch at Restaurante y Comida Tipica "Calle Real" (recommended by teacher), pretty decent, I got them to break a Q100 despite their sign saying to give them change - I needed change for buses to XelaAid and am also stashing small bills to avoid problems/getting ripped off on hike to Atitlan.

Went into Xelapan after and bought couple of sweetish cakey bread things - went home and had 10 mins to eat v nice IIRC chocolatey-cinnamony rock like thing (had one yday too) whose name escapes me but may be vaguely "roca". Dropped bag off too. Met group for XA at corner 16 and 1 and all OK generally. Different students again but went fairly well I think.

Minibus back v cramped, indeed at several points I had a seat (solo, near door) but was completely surrounded by standing people yet oddly my "claustrophobia" feelings didn't kick in. Maybe being near door helped. Maybe I am just inconsistent about it. Maybe because it sort of came on gradually-ish it was OK. Dunno.

Cooked gutbusting rice and tuna again tonight, had other bread thing from earlier, wasted most of night (tho it was prob 8pm ish by time had cooked and eaten, if not later) reading book on phone but did do homework if perhaps a trifle hastily. Feeling a bit "busy" with eg probably lang exchange tomorrow and school etc but not necessarily a bad thing. Vaguely suspect will be some kind of drinks (albeit perhaps a bit salsa-y) tomorrow night with people from school. Sort of hope so as I probably need Thu afternoon/evening to clean up flat and pack (dividing stuff up appropriately) and I'd rather be out Wed than Thu.

Not feeling down or anything but not super satisfied either; I am feeling in a transitional sort of state and it's a little unsatisfactory.

This isn't the best blog entry ever but at least I've written something so could be worse.

Oh, teacher says Antigua may be busy just before Xmas so I should prob make reservations for accommodation (and indeed Acatenango hike, I'd guess) relatively soon - probably will do once I arrive in San Pedro.

And looking at Google Maps while starring San Pedro hotel just now, I am reminded if I didn't already say it that while visiting lake towns I kept falling into the mental illusion that I was on an island, when of course I wasn't. I guess it's the popping around between places on boats which gives a kind of island-hopping feeling (even though AFAICR I have never actually visited anywhere like that).

Quetzaltenango, Sunday

1552 On terrace at Kasa Kiwi with a litre of Gallo for Q30; tempted at 2 for 50 but if I *do* stay out it's only Q10 and the idea is this is just a taking advantage of the very nice weather (this was only place could think of with terrace and price isn't bad; Salon Tecun *may* have a terrace but not sure) and not a night out; I wasn't planning to drink today but the weather and a chance conversation on way back from CdB made me think of it. Did homework (and had half pizza) before coming out; ideally will start to work on the backlog of vocab back home tonight but not essential.

CdB trip pretty good; turns out the main pedestrian access is via some stairs which in hindsight I must have passed when attempting to walk up following the winding road on my second try. Nice views, also had a couple of goes on the (free) long slides up there which was surprisingly fun and had a egg-and-frijoles-in-tortillas snack at a kiosk (overpriced; I think should have been 15 but I never got change from my 20), also had a rice-based atol up there (another 5) but still not tried atol de elote.

Live music on here but no free tables round that side. I am sitting very aloofly in a solo chair by the edge of the terrace on opposite side to bar and music but the free tables round this side seem very "sun in face". I genuinely didn't come here in even a vague hope of getting into a conversation; if it happens then fine, but I really just wanted a beer in the sun (but not sun right in my face).

Might have quick poke at hostels for Friday night while I'm here.

1607 OK, had a quick poke. I really wanted something near QT (not strictly relevant if near school as I will have finished officially there on Wednesday) but neither booking.com nor hostelworld.com has anything, regardless of price, in that area. This seems a smidge odd given there is after all that strange hostel which has QT within in (notwithstanding my slight dislike for it and its dog), maybe there is no availability but perhaps more likely it simply isn't on these sites.

I really did want to be near QT if possible to (presumably) reduce awkwardness of getting there on the Sat morning and to minimise lugging around of my bag or equivalent bags to/from the Fri meeting and indeed on Sat morning. In some sense it seems churlish to worry about lugging a bag half a mile when I am planning to walk 45km with roughly equivalent bag, but there is enough uncertainty and worry around the hike without making things harder than necessary.

hostels.com seems to be part of hostelworld.com now and hostelbookers.com doesn't seem to have anything either.

OK, the prices shown on booking.com's map are unhelpful. There is (one room remaining!) somewhere nearby, but at Q150 a night it's a bit pricey (single room of some description) and off top of head not sure if there 22% tax on top either. Maybe I should just suck up a bit of a walk and go for eg the hotel I was at when I first arrived here or somewhere else a bit closer but not much.

I could in principle also brave the dog and enquire at that weird-seeming hostel which includes QT on its premises tomorrow after school.

1634 Having had look at QT website the *approx* start time on Sat is 0615 at their office. This is not great but I suppose it's also not the 5am start I had feared. It would still mean leaving a "distant" hostel at 0555ish to get there in time but is this really a huge deal on top of everything else? I half suspect I could leave my bag at their premises overnight and perhaps just take my daypack back and forth with the essentials for the single night in, but wouldn't like to bank on that.

Wondering if I should just go with a dormitory for that night on "silly to object given communal-ish nature of hike" but a) maybe I would like the privacy beforehand b) bit worried about having to get up and out at such a time without causing massive disturbance. (Maybe you're not supposed to worry about that. OTOH if it's actually dark at that time, as I suspect it is, that might be awkward.)

Within reason I shouldn't worry about ten or twenty quid here or there. Yes, it does add up, but I am not too careless about it generally and if it eases things a bit it may be worth it. In five years' time I won't remember the extra expense.

Do feel slightly a sad loser here on own, but it is true I didn't want more than a peaceful beer in sun. Bugs me slightly I might struggle to make connections if I did want to though. But overall I'm not doing so badly, it's all practice, shouldn't imagine it's the stereotypical non-stop party for everyone else, etc etc.

Quick look on web says Casa Argentina has single rooms with shared bathroom for Q40. I suspect that's out of date but notwithstanding the dog it is a decent price. I might e-mail them, it wouldn't commit me to anything I guess.

Yeah, bashed over an e-mail in probably sub-optimal Spanish. Don't expect a swift response but I think I can afford to wait a day before I make alternative plans. Bit edgy about that dog but probably be fine, I suspect (not that I feel I was "wrong" to do it) it was a transient shiftiness on my part in legging it for the door and the fucker has no fundamental objections to me.

Now l've been up there and know what I'm looking at (perhaps could see before) I can see the cross and (I think) the building at the lookout on top of CdB from here.

1700 Sun is going down behind hills, it's still very light but not so warm. Have been nursing beer quite well (dicking around with accommodation helps), won't try to rush it but don't think likely to be overly tempted to stay for another. I can indulge in irresponsible drinking and/or attempted socialisation when I'm at Lake Atitlan and onwards and don't have school in the morning (though of course some days I expect to have trips with early starts, just not every day).

Kept waking up in night wondering what time it was again last night. Not *entirely* unpleasant and I wasn't worried about CdB trip in way I was a bit about Chicabal, but not entirely good either. Think I did have a very weak form of the "oh shit" bleak feeling at one of those wake-ups, though not enough to force me out of bed to stagger dazedly around the room trying to get my head straight. Do wonder - pure speculation - if these mini awakenings are related to feeling cold.

Have zipped fleece up - was comfortable wearing it even with the sun before, though I had it off during CdB walk - and feeling just a smidge chilly.

Live music still going, not bad though it's other side of large terrace and just treating it as background music.

Not amazing cover in English of "I will survive" now. Game effort though. Maybe it's not that, words don't seem quite right but tune is similar. No, I don't think it was. So maybe it was a good cover of some other song. :-)

1726 It's probably psychological in part but feeling chillier now despite warmth of day earlier than I have up here at 10pm ish (with other people and having had a few beers, usually though not always) on other days.

Am yawning too, which may not be unrelated. Should try to go to bed earlyish; I have to be up for school Mon-Wed and in practice Thu and Fri too, I then have early start Sat and prob Sun and Mon too (QT site does say, I simply aren't checking) so I really need to try to bank a bit of sleep, assuming it sort of works like that. I expect Fri to be a bit stressful with private lessons and checking out and changing hostel and the pre-trek meeting. I will also need to clean up the flat Wed/Thu.

Don't get me wrong, it's not freezing but I feel a bit uncomfortable. Most other people are moderately layered up too, it's not just me.

Almost at point of necking remaining beer so I can leave, for better or worse. Incidentally on a positive note I didn't get any blisters from yesterday, nothing hurt particularly this morning and I didn't feel today's walk up Cd b was particularly harder because of having done the walk yesterday.

If I didn't say yesterday, Chicabal is not "trivial" - there's a lot of walking uphill and you - well, I did - feel the strain, but you just keep walking and it doesn't take that long and it's generally fine. I had a couple of slips on the way down but never lost my footing nor did I feel particularly at risk or tempted to descend a section suspended on 'inverse all fours'.

Some chap just asked if could take my seat as stood up to look at view for last (small) glass, didn't understand him perfectly but meh, and I let him. What was I actually going to write? Oh yeah, I maybe need to start stockpiling small (Q10ish) bills ready for the trip to Atitlan, to avoid getting shafted on not getting change or them not having change.

Will do little circuit round edge of terrace, have piss and go home via supermarket for unhealthy snacks.

2024 Got back to flat about 1835, there's a Christmas parade on (I think there might be one every week at this point) and I had to walk miles to try to get round it only to find it was passing practically in front of flat. I did manage to sneak across the route of the parade during a gap. In an ideal world I might have taken advantage of this happy coincidence and watched parade but I had bags of snacks and wasn't really in mood and it's not my kind of thing generally. A certain smell of marijuana round parts of the (pretty dense) crowd, not that I have any objection.

(Was a bit warmer at ground level than up on terrace at KK, even though it was dark by this point.)

That hostel have replied - with a bare price, so it may turn out to be a dorm not the preferred private with shared bathroom - at Q50. Quick poke on booking.com shows this is price of single room in some places (without the peculiar advantage of location for my specific purposes) and a dorm in others. I am kind of thinking it's probably worth a punt, it's only one night and it takes some pressure off a bit wrt the trek.

Yeah, fuck it, it's an adventure. Have replied asking to confirm reservation, let's see what happens.

2114 Fireworks but not standing on balcony (direction not so good anyway), going to shower (even though really don't want to) and go to bed. Feeling a bit low grade fed up. Not really upset or disturbed or worried. Maybe it's having to leave here/school (as always, if so, it's kind of good I don't want to leave), maybe it's the uncertainty of the accommodation change and private lessons Thu/Fri and hike and so forth looming a bit. It's fine, I'm not feeling a bit run down in some way. Maybe lack of sleep/that waking up in the night thing. Let's shower and see if I can sleep - I don't feel seriously tired, but a bit - and see how I feel in morning.

Need to buy a new razor, the current disposable is (I think) responsible for a few minor cuts every time I shave.

Don't really feel cold with fleece on in flat and really it's no worse than usual and perhaps warmer but really don't want to shower, but has to be done and not *that* big a deal.

2140 Bed.

Quetzaltenango/Lake Chicabal, Saturday

1750 Waiting outside Quetzaltrekkers office; sign says they've popped out but welcome

1810 Back home. Chap came out of next room, they had only popped there. Anyway, I have paid a Q100 deposit for 3 day (2.5 day) trek a week today. I went into teacher-recommended agency beforehand to ask if they had found any other people; they had not, chap was nice enough but I think he sort of wanted me to wait a few more days but I said I didn't want to risk waiting any longer in case eg QT filled up. (He phoned his son - who I had spoken to the other day, while teacher talked with the father - and from what he said to him I am not sure I got across the "conditional risk" aspect of this but WTF.)

TBH I don't feel super happy. QT have a great reputation and yes it's all volunteers and for charity, but they are charging 750 compared to 600 at the other place, there's an *extra* Q100 fee to have a bag transported (perhaps this is what really sticks in my throat actually) and they also seem to be implying I will have to carry a 50-60 litre backpack (they can lend me one) as I will need to carry some shared gear. There is a mandatory pre-hike meeting at 6pm next Fri and I can at least sort out borrowed gear and what/if I want to send on then, but compared to other tour agency where I could apparently send my main bag on and just take my tiny daypack with sleeping bag and mat strapped to it this seems a hell of a lot more involved. But WTF, it may be "reassuring" if I manage to do it under these apparently more onerous conditions, they *do* have a good rep and the key thing is this isn't some day/weekend thing in the middle of my long stay in Xela where I can be flexible and keep waiting to see if other agency can find anything - this is essentially a form of transport, in part, I need to do it that particular weekend or not at all.

I had been warned QT was right at back of weird complex (apparently a hostel, as I see from QT's confirmation e-mail) and indeed it is. As I made my way back out solo, I got to the street door and a fucking dog appeared. I may have panicked a bit rather than been tranquil and thereby provoked the fucker but - exact sequencing unclear - I rushed the last metre or two to door, fucking hound came at me barking, I emitted a loud high-pitched scream and slammed the door behind me just in time. FFS.

I won't do it tonight but maybe tomorrow I will book a hostel for the Fri night here (as I will have given up this flat; as prob already waffled I can't risk checking out of here 5am or whenever Sat given it's not a hotel with a checkout desk and there may be arguments over cleaning), ideally right near QT (but probably *not* the hostel on their premises) and a hostel for a couple of nights in San Pedro at other end. Wrt the latter may want to wait and see if Joel or anyone else *is* doing the QT hike that weekend and try to get same hostel in SP as him/them. Jolene - who I did Chicabal with today, though not written than up yet - is doing it with QT but the following weekend.

I can pay the rest of the money at the 6pm Fri meeting anyway.

Can't help but feel I am paying more for less - but it's for charity - but there you go. I do want to do that hike (interesting in itself and also a sort of practice for other activities) and being solo it is difficult to go with a less busy company. I think Joel is probably up for it - but he *may* not want to do it that weekend - but he definitely wanted to do it with QT, my (deliberately weak) sales pitch for this other agency didn't convince him, I would guess he'd be not-unhappy at doing it with me but not so keen to do it with me he'd sign up with the cheap agency instead of his preference just to do it with me.

1840 Just done some laundry, not in mood but had to. To be clear, I do realise the Q600 tour with other agency wasn't a "concrete" thing, given absence of other people to join group, so I'm not paying more for less, I'm paying more for something guaranteed and concrete rather than a possible better option which might fail to materialise.

Current thinking is that I will pack all the stuff I *might* be willing to send on separately (ie heavy and/or not-needed-on-hike stuff) in my small daypack and take that to the pre-hike meeting inside my main bag. May also try to pack rest of stuff inside main bag in a bin bag for ease of transfer to another borrowed backpack if necessary. This should make it as easy as possible to shuffle stuff round and decide what exactly might be being shipped on the night.

2157 Some pretty nice fireworks earlier, watched from balcony. Particularly liked some of the expanding sphere ones, some of them gave a vivid impression of the sphere coming towards me which verged on being unnerving. Didn't go out tonight, probably already said was the plan, *slightly* tempted to have a beer on walk back from QT but been out a lot this week, not really in mood and it's an earlyish start tomorrow.

2320 Need to shower and go to bed but quick write up of Chicabal trip. We got the minibus OK, same one we'd take to XelaAid. Jolene sat up front as she (I've seen her puke; she's not making it up...) gets motion sickness if she can't see the horizon. Super rammed in the back but I had a seat and it was OK. Interestingly coloured views of the world outside through the tinted windows. Woman did get on with a basket of raw chicken (covered, though) towards end of journey; it sat in the doorway just in front of me. I asked conductor to tell me where to get off and Jolene also asked driver, we were put off somewhere next to a sign to the lake so all good. Q7 each way on the bus.

We walked up to the entrance, didn't take anywhere near as long as I expected. Passed a small shop on way which had a presumably mechanical cow ride outside the front which looked a bit like it might have real cow hide on. Not sure. Paid 50 to get in (international price) and walked on up to lake. There was a big group of Guatemalan tourists on our colectivo as it happened, which may have helped encourage bus to go slightly out of its way to drop us where it did, BTW. The walk up was steepish but not insane and except for talking while walking which did make me a bit breathless I felt generally OK; not *easy* but not terribly difficult.

We luckily got up to the lookout over the lake a few minutes before a load of cloud/fog drifted in. Very impressive though. We then went down the steep and strangely impressive stairs to the lake shore and did a circuit of it. Mist drifts in and out in a quite fascinating and vaguely mystical way. We walked up some kind of side trail instead of going back up the stairs. We doubled back to the lookout on my suggestion before leaving but it was just totally misted up; took a few photos of each other as 'proof' of having been there anyway.

No trouble getting bus back, we both ended up sat in the front which gave me good views but I also got a bit pre-squeamish at a couple of points when I thought we were about to run over a dog or hit an oncoming car. We got back about 1430ish; I dropped bag at flat and went to get a pizza at Pizza Ricca (I quite like their supreme pizza, with chilli powder sprinkled on it) and I'd eaten just over half (saving rest for tomorrow) before going out to speak to "old" tour agency re hike to Atitlan, as already written.

TBH I think I would have been OK (i.e. safe) to go to Atitlan alone - though not saying I would do it on a weekday, Saturday seems busyish and it didn't feel threatening. Busyish; we were still largely alone walking round the lake and sat and had a snack and looked at mists etc for a while in peace during that walk round. A few other groups of people walking round met occasionally and some presumably locals sitting and perhaps involved in religious stuff at some points.

Lake is not huge but very attractive all the same. Even the mists added to the quality of it. I dipped a finger in the water (you're not allowed to swim, even if I could swim) and it was cool but not freezing. The weather oscillated between sunny and overcast (it was pretty nippy when we left Xela at 7amish though) and I didn't wear my fleece a lot of the time. I had my waterproof clothes in bag just in case but absolutely didn't need them (which isn't to say it wasn't smart to take them; I remember it pissing down the first afternoon I went to XelaAid). Only drank maybe 400ml or so of water; I had more (a whole unopened bottle) but I just didn't want any more than was in the refilled coke bottle I had in my fleece pocket, which wasn't full when I started to keep weight down and I didn't finish that.

Obviously having some familiarity with that colectivo route and getting advice re where to get it was an unitentional side benefit of having done the XelaAid stuff. I am mildly mortified to have realised in conversation with Jolene today I had been calling the XA organiser woman the wrong name on Friday, but can't be helped now.

Fortunately my generally misadvised (I'm sure it's inhibiting and makes me appear more unfriendly than necessary) policy of not using people's names more than I can help means I only did it once or twice, which isn't great but is better than doing it continually.

Pedometer app says did 33191 steps today; it does sometimes wildly miscount but I think that's reasonably plausible.

My feet did hurt a little bit after all that walking but not excessively and while we'll see how my leg muscles feel tomorrow (coming down is perhaps the most difficult bit) I feel generally fine now.

There is a slight lingering feeling of malaise but I'm not entirely sure what it's about. It may well not be rational. I suspect a certain unsatisfactory "I had to (very very slightly, in a justifiable way) let down that tour company re the trip, and I'm a bit edgy about what's involved in the QT version and slightly narked at the price" feeling is mostly responsible.

This is my last weekend in Xela (until next time :-) ) and I haven't been out but it doesn't really bother me. Met one of the musicians out late Thu night when we left Shamrock and though I recognised his face and went over to say hi after we exchange smiles of recognition, I didn't remember his name and think he may have been miffed and so - not that it was the primary reason - it's nice not to have had to worry about meeting him again this weekend. In theory I may be out (tho prob only if school people are) midweek and may meet him again then but not a big deal and not that likely. I really do need to try to work on remembering people's names though.

It's not like this is the end of my holiday, I can go out in Lake Atitlan or wherever of course.

Don't really feel tired but am going to bed shortly. I was yawning quite a lot on way back from Chicabal - I don't know if this was due to the exertion or if it was kind of not-enough-sleep related. (I kept waking up - not entirely unpleasantly - during the night and wondering if it was time to get up yet and worrying very slightly about the bus.)

Quetzaltenango, Friday

2204 Should be moving towards bed given not much sleep last night and need to be out by 7 tomorrow morning.

School OK, struggled to get up, didn't feel hungover so much as a little bit drunk. Was a minute or two late, perhaps, but no big deal. Class dragged a bit but generally OK.

Other chap from school (Joel) who said he might do 3 day trip to Atitlan wants to do QT trip; I gave him details of my agency and no idea if he will speak to them. Bit worried QT will be booked up by time I get turned down by my agency but can't be helped.

Found out during break the English teaching thing in San Martin Chiquito was on so agreed to go; just me, organiser and Joel, but poor turnout of students so we were 1-1 for conversation. My chap seemed to be pretty fluent once he got going, he told me had had been mugged at gunpoint in Xela about six months ago (at about 6-7pm I think) but he didn't worry about it there as everyone kept a lookout for strangers and anyone caught doing serious robbery would be torched (!). I think he was serious but maybe winding me up, can't rule it out, but pretty sure he was serious. He didn't answer my question if he had seen that happen, perhaps deliberately - I guess it would be illegal and perpetrators could get into trouble.

Got some tips re how to get to Lake Chicabal tomorrow from a bloke on the bus out there.

On the way back on the minibus (colectivo) (almost back in Xela) I suddently heard a loud bang/pop kind of noise immediately to my right. Turns out something (deliberate?) had impacted on the window right by my seat and the safety glass had shattered. Inevitable "was that a gunshot?" kind of thoughts for a few seconds but I was of course unscathed.

Cooked a gutbustingly huge rice+veg+tuna meal when got home - I went to supermarket to buy one or two snacks so didn't get back here til maybe 7ish.

I think that's all the main events of the day, didn't entirely feel like writing this now but I think worth keeping the record up etc.

2237 Had shower, drying off before bed. If I get back not too late and not too knackered tomorrow I may pop over to that tour agency in person and ask if the trip is on or not, rather than wondering why they haven't sent me an e-mail to say yes or no.

Wondering a bit if I will struggle with the walk tomorrow but probably be OK and only one way to find out.

2247 Bed. Random thought: did I remember to say that on public bus to Atitlan the other weekend, we got pulled over by the police and all the men had to get off to be searched (rather cursorily AFAICS) for weapons? Presumably just a random search. Given the bloke sitting next to me left his bag on the bus (I didn't) I can't feel it would be near trivial to evade this kind of search but maybe I missed something. Anyway, wanted to write that in case I had forgotten. This was on the first bus from Xela to Las Cuchillas, I think after I got off and back on again at 4 Caminos.

Quetzaltenango, Thursday

1835 School quite good though as usual didn't want to get up and lingered in bed. Asked teacher about my double r, he said I perhaps just need to "emphasise" it a smidge more but that I do kind of make the right sound and I shouldn't worry about it. He did (separately) say I need to pronounce the "r" in "porque" instead of swallowing it.

His group from other school for Lake Chicabal let him down. I asked some other students in break and in the end it looks like I have managed to get together a few people (one definite, some maybes) to go as a private group but without guide on Saturday morning. Teacher didn't seem too upset, not much I could do. General feeling of some people who had done it seemed to be that it is about the one local "attraction" that you can really do without a guide, though doing it alone might not be smart (but might be OK).

Went to supermarket to get stuff to cook with after class - the Mas y Mas near El Calvario, which is cheaper than the one in La Democracia, at least for tuna :-). Had to put my backpack (nearly empty, but school book in etc) in locker as is usual, forgot to collect it again and got all the way into flat before going through brief a) fuck, I've lost my bag b) no, I left it in the locker c) yes, I even have the key on its enormous wooden fob in my pocket routine. Trogged back - 10 minsish each way, not huge deal and it's all exercise - and got bag. Then got into private street by flat and realised I didn't have a lime to cook with (not *essential* but wanted one if possible) so I headed back out and got two from a street vendor in La Democracia (same price as street vendor near school; Q0.50 each).

Cooked - pretty nice, for variety I threw in half a tin of mushrooms, will have other half tomorrow - and then gorged further on two hot dogs. Mostly bummed afternoon away somehow but not too bad. Did wash my (viscose) towel, which produced several sinkfuls of brown water before finally starting to come clean.

Owner of flat replied this morning saying I can extend for 5 days and though he hasn't replied to my subsequent e-mail he *may* be coming here before 7 (ie soon) to collect the money. I am going out to Kasa Kiwi for 8 to join other students for drinks after the thanksgiving dinner there.

One student today also expressed possible interest in the 3 day trip to Atitlan. I need to maybe do some discreet sales work for both trip tonight at the drinks. :-)

1846 Owner just came. Bit awkward but brief as usual.

Phone didn't charge for some reason last night; at 9% when had to leave for school. Another good reason to bring a battery pack with me (in the absence of interchangeable batteries); I was able to charge it on table during lesson using the pack. (I don't normally carry it round; I took it into school specially as I needed it.) Not first time it has come in handy; not quite so bad but phone somehow only at 25% one morning a few weeks ago, pack was also useful to top phone up after that day trip when power was off on getting home and I took it with me instead of mains charger on single night trip to Atitlan other weekend to avoid dormitory mains socket shenanigans (though, naturally, I *did* have a reasonably well located mains socket by my bed there after all). Should also come in handy on 3 day trip; I think there may be some limited mains access but will be useful to be able to top up on the two overnight stops without relying on it, plus I can charge the pack (less of a theft/accidental damage target) from any mains I find instead of the phone.

Better shower now as may struggle to dry off without towel, which is out on the balcony on my travel clothesline.

0150 Just got home. People generally unmpressed w Kasa Kiwi and Pool&Beer, ended up having two litres and a good chat w Sean at Shamrock (and a decent sipping mescal), we tried to go on to after hours bar and met - tho alas I forgot his name - Ronan of band from other nights, the cops were hanging around and we failed to get in and some other place we walked past also didn't go in. Not a bad night all same. Wish had remembered Ronan's name but at least I remember him as a person.

Quetzaltenango, Wednesday

2249 Didn't want to get up as usual. School OK, fairly good chat with teacher most of time.

Was going to try to get a half chicken and chips at little restaurant had seen somewhere near flat after class before going to language exchange at La Luna at 3 but couldn't find it and ended up just having three bread things (cabezonas? I didn't ask - I just asked the price of "those" - but memories of La Vienesa suggest this may be correct) from a little bakery to tide me over during exchange. Conversation fairly good this time, left maybe 5:15.

Not entirely in mood for eating in restaurant after so came back to flat to do washing up (which had lingered a bit last few days) and then went out to try a couple of supermarkets for something novel to cook. Not really successful, in the end just bought some hot dog buns and sausages and had four of them as dinner. Meh. Would have got some fruit too but the Mas y Mas in La Democracia doesn't seem to sell it.

Teacher very slightly tricked me into going into a tour agency he knows (he is a guide so has probably worked with them and this is therefore a sort of decent recommendstion, not a pure kickback situation) and they are going to see if they can sort me out with the 3 day trip to San Pedro on Lake Atitlan a week on Saturday. They could do any day I wanted, but although I might have preferred Sunday I am a single traveller and they need a group; guy seems to think he can probably find some other people but I asked and he said Saturday would be a more popular day to start and thus more likely to find some other people so I went with that. This will be Q600 if they can get other people, and they will let me know one way or another by Sat. This isn't super cheap but I can't see a price in guide book and considering it "replaces" two night's accommodation and a shuttle (I wouldn't like to take public buses with my main bag) which would probably clock in at Q300-400 it's not so bad. Internet is down now so can't trivially check price online and I'd probably just find scary shit about robbers anyway.

Teacher also mentioned - I am aware this might not be a coincidence - that he is taking a group from another school (*not* my old one) to Lake Chicabal on Saturday. I asked (after internal dithering) if this was private or if I could join; he is not entirely sure if they are going to cancel but is going to let me know tomorrow. Just possibly I could get some other students from my school interested but we'll see. I did say to him I did want to go without a group, so I shouldn't be left on hook if this does fall through. If this does work out that is me sorted for my remaining time here (unless the 3 day hike falls through, in which case I may stay here that weekend and do something else then) and means I won't do the volcanoes here, but that's OK, I will have done something and am going to do more around Lake Atitland and Antigua and can do them another time, and if it doesn't work out I'll go over to QT and ask them about a Chicabal tour on Sat. If QT can't help Adrenalina Tours do at least one hike *somewhere* (not very clear from the annotated leaflet I got the other week and just managed to find) every day with no min group size. They are incidentally showing a price of Q650 for the 3 day trip to Atitlan which suggests the Q600 price I've been quoted isn't unreasonable. (They have min 2 people so while I will talk to QT and then AT if the agency my teacher took me to can't organise a group I will try the others, but again would be dependent on someone else looking to do it at same time.)

Teacher left me speaking in Spanish with 3 day hike chap while he chatted with his friend across the room, but he said he was half listening in on our conversation and that it was "correct", so to speak - do more or less believe him, and this is moderately reassuring.

Tried to extend here until next Friday (would switch to a "normal" hotel for Fri night in order to avoid awkwardness over checking out of this flat - where I have to have owner come over to do it - at 5am Sat morning or whenever to leave for trip to Atitlan) on booking.com but it won't let me book for less than 7 days. I have e-mailed owner direct to see if he will let me extend for 5 days; I suspect this will be OK (booking.com *does* - though rather confusingly - show availability if I ask to book for 7 days) and since this is presumably to minimise hassle from short-term stays and I am actually staying in total 20-odd it would seem a bit silly to turn my money down, but who knows. Yes he has the hassle to pop round for money but no need for cleaning or showing me round or turning up at a precise time to give me the keys. If can't get this will probably go to a ho(s)tel on Sunday for the last week here, though this may prove awkward in terms of being on the CdB trip on Sunday from quite early.

2332 Random observation while freezing nads off after shower before bed - may have already said this but can't remember and it's sort of thing may be interesting and/or useful when rereading later or visiting a second time. Not always possible to see them, but there's a distinctive volcano (unlike Antigua, where to my tourist eyes there's a volcano in every direction) to the south of the city which is useful when navigating round, and from all the touristy bits of the city the Monte Sinai church on a hill also lies to south.

Weather today very overcast, we even had a bit of light rain. Temperature fluctuates a bit day to day, we are still sitting out on top (UK 2nd floor) terrace at school and with fleece on and zipped up it's borderline comfortable but some days more than others. There are often a few hours of sun at some point in the day, so as well as not being as cold as a UK winter (the temperature is borderline comfortable with fleece on; the issue is that since there's no heating it's a smidge chilly inside when you're not fully dressed) you also get some sun/warmth relatively often (perhaps even most days, but I'm not sure right now). Based on speaking to people it's mainly Xela which is like this (and other places at similar altitude in this part of country); in Pana last weekend for example was much sunnier (no need for fleece, women practically all in shorts) because it's not so high up. But I do like Xela, and while I do like winter sun, except for the 5 mins when I get up and the 5 mins after a shower I'm fairly happy with the weather here - it's quite nice to be able to wear the fleece (with extra pockets etc) comfortably. Haven't been bothering with sun cream lately, have been wearing cap instead as don't want to risk sunblock/UV interfering with healing of cut from bus luggage rack, and it's generally been overcast enough that (bearing in mind the fleece has a collar as well) I've not worried about getting burnt on back of head or neck.

Anyway, let's go to bed. Still no internet in flat but may force use of mobile data to send this anyway. Tomorrow night may be a moderately late one and although frankly it's already relatively late given my getting up time, it makes sense to try to get as much sleep as I can tonight.

Quetzaltenango, Tuesday

2235 Just got home from Katiyah (sp)'s birthday drinks (she was 27) at King & Queen. We were in theory there for pub quiz but it didn't happen; perhaps for the best, a tolerably matey night. Was slightly tempted to go somewhere else for a solo beer when we left, but I decided given numerous opportunities to drink recently and probably Thanksgiving drinks (I won't go to dinner) on Thursday with probably midnight-ish finish then and the general 8am start I wouldn't. Feel mildly pissed now, due to sharing pitchers not entirely sure how much I drank but not loads.

Didn't want to get up (cold, bit tired) as usual but did and school OK, actually quite good chat with teacher. Went to supermarket with him nearby and nearby street market to buy stuff to cook at home - was bit time constrained due to language exchange at 3. Cooked, ate - decent portion of course, frankly I feel a bit snacky right now but trying to be semi-healthy in week and "luckily" have nothing in house to eat - went to conversation class. There about two hours, conversation perhaps a smidge repetitive and/or a bit Englishy but not bad, there is an informal one at La Luna tomorrow at 3 which will probably go to.

Have done homework before went out, but massively behind with typing new vocab in Vocabletrainer app let along learning it. Tis OK.

Not done anything about booking trips (except CdB on Sun) yet or extending stay at this flat. May just possibly pop into Quetzaltrekker tomorrow between class and lang exchange; I will probably eat in a comedor tomorrow for variety.

2244 Having had a brief squint at calendar and realising (not that it's a big deal) I fly on 17th Dec not 18th, I am provisionally thinking stay here rest of this week and next week. If teacher is right the 3 day hike to Lake Atitlan only leaves on Sat; if so I would leave for that a week on Sat, meaning I only have this Sat free (Sun being CdB) to do stuff here, but that's OK, especially if I could do lake Chicabal. If 3 day hike can leave other days might stay here next weekend and then leave on 3 day hike after. Anyway, that gives me 2 weeks-ish left; time to spend a few nights in Pana or elsewhere on Lake Atitlan and do some hiking (if I want; perhaps not given other hiking am doing) and/or paragliding, then a few nights in Antigua and do Acatenango, and I have a few days in hand on this schedule for relaxing and/or other activities in these places and/or a few days in GC at end. This is not a formal plan at this point, just some rough thoughts.

I need to extend accommodation *but* I need to be careful as I may want to leave a week Sat (early) so can't be extending accom here til Sun, *plus* given I suspect there may be cleaning/handing over keys issues I don't want to assume I can check out of here at eg 6am Sat and head off on hike, so I may want to extend only til say Thu or Fri and spend last night or two in a ho(s)tel. I guess I need to speak to teacher tomorrow since he had mentioned some possibility of a friend of his taking me (ideally not alone) on 3 day hike and if he hasn't any info I need to go to QT tomorrow after class to inquire into 3 day hike and then I can make plans and extend accommodation tomorrow night.

Sounds like a vague plan.

Some suggestion (inconsistent) that Chile (the country) should be pronounced like English "Chill" tonight. Not sure if in Spanish or English or both. Bit dubious but have made not and will do some web searching on this tomorrow or whenever. Or I'll just ask people when I'm there. :-)

Not exactly tired but I should move towards bed.

2302 Bed. Realised I have a packet of peanuts but since a) I have immense self-control b) I just cleaned my teeth and don't want to redo that c) they are semi-deliberately slightly boring unsalted ones, I will be strong and not touch them.

Quetzaltenango, Monday

1805 Just had shower as going out tonight so can't shower later. Class OK on the whole. School has trip to Cerro del Baul this weekend - teacher says Sun, noticeboard doesn't say. Will prob do that, bit disappointed they aren't doing Lake Chica bal. Feeling a bit edgy about not having got much/any walking in yet and hating the mix of health and ability and "who to go with?" doubts this whole business stirs up. Did however end up speaking to woman (30ish, not super fit by her own admission but not unfit either) during my short break today (15 mins, since we finished 30 mins early Friday, and will do same tomorrow to make it up) who had been to Antigua for the weekend and done Acatenango 2 day hike and it had been fine - not *easy*, but not ridiculously hard. She also recommended Quetzaltrekkers and warned me the door is always shut but if you knock someone will let you in. I also spoke to my teacher about this in various contexts. He suggested - something I had seen before - the 3 day non-volcano hike from here to Lake Atitlan. It is not cheap but for three days' "accommoation" and travel it's not insanely expensive. It would (probably) give me some experience with camping etc before confronting this prospect at the same time as going up a volcano, and while it may not be "easy" I have little doubt about my ability to cope with this hike in raw "physical" terms, since it is "just" walking, maybe a bit hilly etc. If I wasn't planning on going back that way *anyway* it might not be so appealing, but I am.

I am thinking I will probably try to do the Acatenango 2 day hike with a reputable company from Antigua (hopefully before I lose any altitude acclimatisation from being here in Xela), subject to no terrible lessons learned on the 3 day hike to Atitlan.

Teacher says he can take me to Chicabal - I would do this if I could get a couple of other students interested, but not sure if I can. If I can't I will probably speak to Quetzaltrekkers and see what if anything they can do for me locally - I may avoid anything involving camping here, so I can try that out on the 3 day hike. There is I believe a half day hike to a lookout on one of the volcanos here and while in some sense I'd like to go to the top, I think the right way to look at it is that they are two separate and potentially interesting trips and it's not either-or - I could do that one to the lookout "now" and then perhaps on a subsequent visit to Xela I could do the other one, without feeling I was repeating activities. (Of course, if it's tremendously fun then no harm in repeating.)

I kind of need to stop second-guessing my own abilities, take sensible precautions (eg I think, notwithstanding a slight excuse-y quality, it has been sensible to let myself acclimatise here for a few weeks before doing any of these things) and otherwise just fucking have a go rather than trying to judge the feasibility from a mixed bag of reports on difficulty and so on. However, FWIW my teacher rather poo-poohed the (doubtless well meaning) advice from that guy at the language exchange about Lake Chicabal being difficult; while I suppose he doesn't know how fit I am or aren't, he *is* a professional guide and he said one of his 11 year old children and his wife (who walks round town a bit but otherwise doesn't particularly exercise) have both done it with no real difficulties.

Been feeling a bit down this afternoon despite feeling OK earlier. Didn't want to get up as always due to cold/tiredness.

I also need to pretty promptly form some sort of moderately solid plan for the last few weeks of the trip. Then I will know how many weekends I have to do any hiking-y kind of activities here (eg time permitting I am thinking Lake Chicabal - with teacher or a tour agency like QT - and that volcano lookout day hike would be nice, but if I'm doing CdB Sunday I only have one day free this weekend and right now I don't know if I will be here the following weekend) and how much time I might have in Pana/Lake Atitlan and Antigua. Also not sure about visiting GC or not. Guys went with this weekend suggested signing up with couchsurfing.com or whatever because you can find people who will show you round even if you don't want to stay with them.

Because I'm an inconsistent arse, after feeling a bit of a sad loser with no social life earlier on, I am currently feeling a bit over-stretched with the drinks tonight (if anyone turns up...) and the language exchange tomorrow afternoon and possible joint birthday drinks for a couple of students tomorrow night and a vague prospect of some kind of Thanksgiving dinner and/or drinks on Thursday. From a raw alcohol consumption POV (ignoring possibly slightly high but not insane consumption this weekend just gone) this mid-week drinking isn't as bad as it might be, because if I'm off hiking at the weekends I am unlikely to be out drinking much then.

Bit of a health mental wobble earlier when my right eye seemed to be a bit 'dazzly'. I *think* this was simply caused by sun reflecting off my glasses etc as I sat at kitchen table reading on phone and my sort of ploughing on regardless. I wore half of my sleep mask over that eye for a bit and touch wood it seems fine now. Obviously have to be careful not to ignore this if it keeps happening but I think I probably slightly over-reacted.

0043 Got home few mins ago. Three beers and a political discussion with doctor then we went and chatted for a bit in courtyard of her accommodation, which is practically next door. Can't say I felt super comfortable with the politics discussion but it was OK and probably good practice at not not expressing opinions. Quite an enjoyable night all the same. The other two didn't turn up FWIW. Bed.

Lake Atitlan, Saturday/Sunday

Sun 1055 Having coffee solo at hostel (La Iganua Perdida) in Santa Cruz La Lagune, very nice views over the lake. On the whole things have been interesting and gone surprisingly well.

Just checked out, was Q302 - they run a tab system here so it was a bit scary, but that's OK. I think about 65 of that is for the dorm bed for one night, 65 of it is for the barbeque last night and the rest is drinks. Not a super cheap night but OK. Oh, 8 of that will be for unlimited coffee yesterday and I payed another 8 cash after checking out for unlimited coffee today, hence sitting here now. I have lost my water bottle (an old Coke bottle - not a huge loss) but if that's all I've lost I'm happy.

Struggled to get up (cold/fearful) on Saturday so got up a hair before 7. Went over to terminal, slight effort to find it but not too big a deal. Put backpack (small, just my daypack) in front of chest as advised by teacher, felt a bit stupid but whatever. Struggled to hear anyone calling "Pana" but wandered up and down and maybe 15 mins later a chap (not the first) who came up to me showed me onto a bus. I was super dubious but went with it. Bus got super rammed later though I only had one guy next to me. A preacher got on and started on at us (in Spanish; I mostly understood him for better or worse, but decided not to be able to speak Spanish if he spoke to me (he didn't) and stayed on the bus as well pulled away.

When the guy came round to collect money I handed him 20 and said "Pana" and he only took 10 and said something like "Los Cuchillos". I had expected to pay 20 so I got worried I was going to have to change bus an extra time halfway there. Getting a bit antsy, when we got to 4 Caminos I looked at Google Maps and decided to fight my way off the bus. I then dithered and asked driver and he said not to get off here and he'd tell me when to get off. So fought my way back on, very embarrassed, and sat down again. Eventually told to get off, everyone very helpful really, and by sheer luck there was another bus (these are the big ex-US school buses) at the apparently middle of nowhere junction at that point, the driver pointed at it and told me to take it. So I dashed over and said "Pana?" and got on, which was lucky.

This bus had a guy in a suit get on with a portable PA round his neck who did a spiel about a dermatological cream, including coming round the bus offering sample squirts from a bottle (I didn't take one, so can't say how good it was). They also appeared to take only 2 or 3 Q from the 10 I handed over, and they only went as far as Solola. I was feeling better (not that I'd ever felt terrible) at this point as I knew where Solola was, in a pinch it is walkable (8km?) from there to Pana and I felt I was mostly there. I asked a guy at a Claro booth where to get a bus and he told me to walk three blocks down one road, which got me to the (scenic; would be nice to spend a day or two in Solola some time) main square and I managed to get another extra-rammed big bus to Pana from there, which cost an inexplicably high 5 or 8 or so.

Once in Pana I knew where I was. It was *way* busier than when I was there a month-ish ago and much hotter, but I kept my fleece on all the same. I found the terminal and hung around hoping to spot a public ferry (I still am not completely clear how or if this is done; I think they mostly look the same as the private boats) and by sheer chance spotted another guy from the school who had left on Friday heading down the pier. So I followed him and got on that boat, and it turned out he was going to the same hostel as me.

We checked in - I was able to get into my dorm straight away, and luckily got bottom bunk and (as it turned out) the two guys I was meeting were in the same room. Then had coffee and a chat in Spanish on terrace while waiting for other two to come back from a kayaking trip. (Not a new observation, but I probably couldn't have joined in with that even if I had been here. I really do need to learn to swim when I'm back in the UK.)

We - and some other people they'd met - then got a boat over to IIRC San Marcos and had lunch (an very slowly served and pricey at Q45 but nice vegetarian curry for me) and walked round a bit, including a mini hike up Cerro Tzankujil - there was a 7ish m high diving platform part way up, two or three people from our group did in fact do the jump, which I was pretty impressed by. I have no idea if I ever would do such a thing even if I could swim - I could see being torn - but again, I really do need to learn to open my options up.

Got the boat back - it was really rough waiting at the dock to leave , I didn't get sick but worried I might get sick, but better (though bumpy - that "hitting a stone" feeling as went over the waves) on the way back. We bought a few bottles of Quetzalteco and a few beers at little kiosk outside hostel and "sneaked" them in so watched sunset-ish (it actually set behind a big hill to the right, but nice colours etc) from terrace and/or out on the docks. Two of the people we'd met were a Californian couple did a bit of swing dancing (on the dock - brave!) and the two guys (as said other day, actually bloke and woman but easier to write this way) I was with were into salsa (bloke is cutting his Spanish down to 4h a day and taking up intensive private salsa classes) and we ended up with that couple leading an impromptu dance class on a different terrace inside the hostel. I felt a bit awkward but as it would have left one woman without a partner I did join in, and I sort of enjoyed it and also sort of felt really crap. A bit like the whole awkwardness of pair work thing I used to get doing Wing Tsun.

I sneaked away towards 7 to go have a shower, as did other people. We had signed up for the barbecue earlier and also found out there was a fancy dress party afterwards - the hostel has a whole small room with old clothes in, and we had picked out some costumes before we went over to San Marcos. Again not the sort of thing I'd perhaps normally do but the thing about being with a group was I was able to join in taking advantage of peer pressure and sheepyness (not sheepishness, hence making my own word up). I contented myself with an apparently hideous women's top ("Girl in the saddle") and a fetching mob cap with a feather in; I wore my regular cargo trousers and that was fine. Several blokes wearing dresses but I didn't go that far.

So got fancy dressed and went into bar for drinks and the barbecue (pretty good, though I feel a bit pricey at 65 even with seconds on the side dishes) and quite a lot of drinks. The atmosphere was quite nice; staff making an effort to create a fun atmosphere, slightly artificial but still kind of fun drinking cames round a table with a local guy in drag, etc. Bar shut at 1 but I ended up sharing a pre-purchased beer with an American doctor (female) from the mid-west and a middlingly interesting/maudlin/slightly-aggressive drunk guy on the terrace where we'd been dancing earlier. We helped staff clear away a little bit and then despite/because of a moderately animated discussion about politics and feminism I ended up back on the terrace cuddled up with the doctor looking out at the lake (volcanoes silhouetted on the opposite shore), just the two of us.

We went to bed (separately) at some point; I wasn't sober but wasn't pissed either. I was probably (presumably, given it had just been us two on the terrace) the last one into the dorm but I felt my way over to bed in the dark and slipped my shoes and trousers off - left them on floor, nothing super valuable in them and most of people in dorm were known quantity at this point - I had had the foresight to leave my battery pack and cable on the bed so I went to bed with phone charging under my pillow. I didn't/couldn't get properly under blankets in the dark without disturbing everyone, but I didn't feel cold just sleeping under the top cover sheety thing.

I woke up and didn't check the time but eventually my alarm went off at 1030 and checkout was 11. I got up - no one else in dorm - and went off to shower (cleaning teeth with no water, just saliva to make paste foam - not risking tap water) and put clean uw/top on and checked out and that's where I am now.

Nadia (I should give people names really) chatted me on Whatsapp, saw her on terrace relaxing in hammock, Joel has gone off hiking and might be back 1ish, hence my coming over to this other terrace to write this and have coffee etc.

There's no wifi here - they make out it's so people connect with each other etc, this may be true but it also feels a bit of an excuse for not providing it even in common areas - but I have mobile data on phone so that's OK. They have some computers you can use, and apparently the restaurant next door charges Q50 for an hour's use of their wifi!

Feel the usual qualms after a night drinking but ultimately I don't think I did anything wrong. Not sure I will remember everyone I met yesterday but just have to keep working on that.

Not hungry but not not hungry. I will assume we're going to eat together some time 1ish when Joel gets back.

I could maybe see myself trying a couple of nights here on my way back through Pana/Lake Atitlan, but I do also feel it would be harder to meet people on my own - OTOH, I should try. I assume this would be classed as a "party hostel" so I shouldn't *always* shy away from such places.

A couple of people told me I looked 35ish, and they weren't apparently trying to borrow money. I don't take this too seriously but it's nice to hear regardless. I guess wearing a cap (either my baseball cap or that fancy dress one) hiding baldness helps.

Oh, it also helps because I skinned my head on the luggage rack as I was sitting down on the Solola-Pana bus. It didn't bleed but did hurt a bit; I put cap on so I didn't have to plaster sunblock on the wound, and I washed it with some antibacterial soap in hostel bathroom. It has a weirdly sunburny large-liver-spot appearance now but I'm sure it will be fine (it is absolutely *not* sunburned).

2344 Freezing nads off after shower. We left about 2 (not too sure), had lunch in Pana (think I'd eaten in same place on last visit) then got bus about 3. We didn't have to wait for any buses, but we had to change in Solola, then Los Encuentros, then somewhere else for a connection to Xela (our bus wasn't direct; in future may be worth asking this before getting on, though it's such a stressed and pressured environment may not be worth it) then we got dropped off at some point not too far from centre of Xela but not terminal so we got a taxi (I could have walked but WTF). Journey seemed interminable but also somewhat cool; very strong centrifugal forces going round some of the winding mountain roads, I felt I was getting the hang of squashing onto the seats when already full and I also heard the song "No te sientas tan importante" on one bus which I have listened to several times on Youtube tonight and which makes me smile almost against my will; there's something so jaunty about it.

We are meeting up with the doctor tomorrow night at El Cuartito at 8; I think it's her last night in town before she goes back to the US. She was probably going to travel back with us but when we got to Pana she realised she'd left something at the hostel and had to go back for it. (I am not mentioning her name out of slightly illogical privacy concerns, as usual.)

Bit late to bed really but not terrible. Didn't enter Friday's vocab in phone but did write something about the exchange on Friday (even if a bit hastily). I went and got a pizza from Pizza Ricca on way home; half the city seemed to be queuing up outside but got a 'special' IIRC pizza for Q55 eventually, have eaten about half and it's pretty nice, will eat rest tomorrow. Bit lardy to have the pizza as well as the (not-huge) restaurant lunch but was promising myself it as a treat when the bus rides seemed interminable and it's the weekend so WTH.

Some minor self-doubt creeping in re Saturday night be on the whole I think it was a good and fun experience.

Let's go to bed. Final note - some of the "games" at the party last night required you to make up a fake identity. In a lack of imagination I simply nicked Bill Bryson's - which isn't a good idea when it turns out I am completely incapable of saying "Des Moines" correctly, even after being corrected multiple times. :-)

Got back to flat about 1915 BTW, though I'd probably have been here 15-30 mins earlier if I hadn't faffed with the pizza.

Quetzaltenango, Friday

1244 At Restaurante Típico just off Plaza de los Poetas. Teacher proposed that we finish half an hour early and don't have the half hour break on Monday; this gives me time to eat lunch and go back to flat to drop my bag off before meeting at 2 for that English thing.

Tried - with mild prompting - a tiny bit of ceviche at the break. I didn't realise until someone told me (before I tried it) that Guatemalan ceviche is with beef testicles (chopped and fermented in some way) not fish. Taste was OK if not amazingly keen on the slightly vinegary fermented quality. This does make the many ceviche street carts seem more sensible; I had wondered who would buy raw fish from a street cart (though maybe that would be OK too).

Semi-impromptu school trip out to Bakeshop just before break; I got a bagel and a ring donut and bought a loaf of carrot bread for teacher. He said my interactions with the counter staff were fine, which is reassuring.

Pan pipe (? ish anyway) version of Skorpion's "Wind of change" playing...

Getting breaded breast (chicken??) fillet here, Q20 including peach juice and tortillas and possibly some other bits and pieces if I am lucky but not mentioned on menu.

1835 Home. Actually pretty cool afternoon but let's cook now.

2203 Just showered. Quick write up of this afternoon. Only three volunteers plus the organiser, one of them being the organiser's mother. We walked over to La Democracia-ish and got public minibus for Q70 - about 45 mins drive over to San Martin Chiquito.

Bit nervous about it but it was all fine. I got (by chance, I think) the most advanced group, three women who I thought looked young but didn't find out til the end were actually late teens-ish. They were a bit giggly but I don't think it was aimed at me. I think they found my accent less clear than the American organiser, but they did understand me - we were mostly at the level of me asking them questions using a children's picture book ("where is the cat sitting?") and they had to reply with a complete sentence. Organiser kept coming round to offer guidance and it was fine, time actually flew past. (I did use a bit of Spanish, against instructions, to clarify one or two things and they did understand me, which was reassuring. Also interesting to struggle to remember to use ustedes instead of tu form. Oh, and interesting to see the flip side of the b/v sounds being "the same" in Spanish in that they struggled to hear "bandage" and wrote "pandich".)

Someone from the organisation had offered to drive us back but the minibus was broken so we got a public bus back as we'd come. Very busy on there but I had a seat (albeit with a damp backpack shoved in the floorwell; vague London-esque bomb thoughts but not too worried and a guy did take it eventually) and it all felt fairly good-natured etc. One of the group suffered from travel sickness (kudos to her for not being put off going in the first place) and was sick on the way back, but this didn't seem to bother anyone too much (luckily someone had a bag to give her).

Might do it again, among feedback I gave organiser was that it would be better if it wasn't Friday afternoon as that meant it was incompatible with going away for the weekend. But that probably won't happen that much anyway. Also got some advice from organiser re volcano hikes, obviously all very personal and hard to judge but still feeds into my mental picture. She recommended Quetzaltrekkers (sp) though partly due to their profits going to some charity and not *strictly* due to quality, though she said they were good.

Current thinking there is I will see if school *is* doing Lake Chicabal next weekend, if it is I will go, if not I will make private arrangements to go there and I will also look into getting on a waiting list for one of the other local volcanoes so I can probably manage this before I go.

Deliberately not mentioning any names for other people on trip out of some vague sense of respecting privacy. Was impressed to find organiser's mum had been a programmer 20 years ago (she stopped when she had children, I think) and had worked in APL (among other languages) - possibly the first person I've knowingly met with commercial APL experience.

Decided not to take waterproof jacket/trousers tomorrow. No point lugging the weight and risking losing them. Guys (one man and one woman but easier to write this) who went today have messaged me to say they went to San Pedro (a direct bus, I think) but ended up having to walk for ages due to a road being under construction so I should just go to Panajachel. I was intending to do that anyway but I might have got tempted away by advice at bus terminal and now I won't. The weather forecast doesn't suggest much rain (oh, it did piss it down when we were in San Martin this afternoon but we were inside, and it was actually slightly refreshing - there were a few drops in Xela as we were nearing bus terminal on the way out there) and I think *at most* there will be a little bit of mild hiking done (plan seems to be mostly just to relax) and after today's unplanned walk I wouldn't be surprised if they have little interest in doing any more.

Let's stop waffling and go to bed.

Quetzaltenango, Thursday

1337 At PdlJ. Salad was beetroot - I should have asked first and tried to negotiate a swap - but food otherwise good.

Class OK. Felt tired but not hungover this morning. Teacher gave me advice re going to Santa Cruz La Laguna. Sound immensely difficult - need to get bus from terminal (where I went to market) but they will tell me to get off somewhere a few kilometres north of the lake, I then need to get another bus to Panajachel and then a ferry to Santa Cruz La Laguna. They may try to overcharge me but the two buses should be about 20-25 and 10 respectively. There may not be many ferries and if I have to get a 'private' boat it could cost 100. There was also an accident on Lake Atitlan the other day and at least three and maybe seven people drowned when a boat overturned - went out with teacher to buy a paper for lesson and it was on front page. However, teacher says if I get a big public ferry it is safe, and also Panajachel to SCLL is on the same side of the lake so we wouldn't be in the middle of the lake at any point. The accident was a combination of overloading (16 people instead of max 10) and high waves due to strong wind. I think this means I wasn't at risk, so to speak, when I did the tour of lake other day.

Have Whatsapp connection (she set it up; I feel really grandad-like but I struggle with Whatsapp, at least abroad) with one of students I am meeting and I think they are going to let me know any wrinkles in the travel once they get there. Teacher also gave me (unprompted) his phone number so I can call him in an emergency; obviously don't intend to do this but nice to have the option.

Going to try language exchange at La Luna at 3 but will go home first. Would sort of rather just have a quiet afternoon but make an effort etc and I will probably enjoy it once I'm there.

1508 No one here at La Luna. Spoke with staff/owner, they think it's Friday. Am getting a coffee - quite a nice place, although bit pricey at 10 - and will drink it then go if no one comes, not a big deal, it's all exercise walking over etc.

2121 Was surfing web when one guy turned up, we alternated Spanish and English every 15 mins for maybe an hour or hour and a half before parting. There is apparently "often" (it would be turn up and hope) an exchange there on Wednesday as well as the official Tue and Fri ones. All very amicable if a tiny bit strained and will definitely go to next one I get chance to.

Went to supermarket for tuna (to cook with tomorrow night) and peanuts (for Sat trip, as "emergency" snack) after; second day in a row been there and walked home in dark (but very bustly; not late at night, 6ish) and felt perhaps irrationally chuffed about doing these perhaps trivial things in a foreign country etc without worrying about them.

Alternating between feeling I am actually living up to my semi-resolution other day to "live a bit harder" - social activities yesterday, exchange Tuesday and today, English teachy thing tomorrow, going to Lake Atitlan Saturday etc - vs "argh, so much crap to do".

The trip to Lake Atitlan on Saturday morning - teacher says I need to leave flat about 6am - is (rationally or not) something which frightens me just a little bit and is therefore kind of good in a comfort-zone-stretching way. It may in fact be a near trivial thing to do but it feels just dangerous enough and involves speaking Spanish in unfamiliar situations that I think I'll feel proud of myself when (if? ;-) ) I arrive at the hostel. In some sense it is almost ridiculous to spend the time and money going there for just one night, but I did say I'd do the thing on Friday, I do want to take this opportunity to socialise and in a way it's good it forces me to travel alone because that's a facing fears kind of deal, whereas going with the other two (or however many; not 100% sure) would allow me to be a bit more of a passenger. I think apart from the Spanish-speaking angle, I need to try to remain broadly positive *and calm* if I get confused about where to go or what to do.

Guide book says 5 direct buses to Pana from here between 10am and 5pm taking 2h. Think teacher said there were only 2. Meh. I suppose it will be worth trying his suggested route anyway if only for the experience, and in theory that could get me there for 10-11am which will give me more time there too. (I expect that arrival time to prove laughably unrealistic.) It may well be different for the guys going tomorrow because they will be leaving early afternoon, not early morning.

Guide book says it's 30 mins and Q15 in lancha (dangerous??) from Pana to Santa Cruz La Laguna. Except for the possibility of direct buses it seems generally consistent with what teacher has told me. Apparently the hostel is right next to the dock.

F&CO advice doesn't seem *too* specifically scary re this route, though it does as always advise against the public buses (chicken buses, though it doesn't call them that). However, teacher did say it's safe, and no one else here has cautioned me against them either. I feel a bit better about it because I will be leaving most of my possessions here in Xela anyway, which reduces scope for theft and means I don't need to have a bag put on the roof.

I should probably move towards bed soonish. Didn't get ideal amount of sleep last night and given I "want" to be up at 6 on Saturday and will probably not get home til 7:30 Friday and I then need to cook and pack, it seems smart to get some sleep in tonight if I can.

Will say now I probably won't be writing up the Sat/Sun trip until I get home Sun night (and maybe not then if I am knackered). Will be staying in a dormitory (it's one night, I've done it before and I will be with other people I know, mildly comfort zone expanding and mildly sheepishly doing same as people I am going with) so won't get private chance to write and I *hope* to keep my phone strictly in my pocket between leaving home and getting to hostel to avoid attracting undue attention. I need to fricking remember the name of the town I am going to, TBH, keep forgetting.

2252 Bed. Not as early as perhaps ideal but not too bad. Incidentally I am *not* treating everything my teacher says re eg this trip as gospel, just noting down what he says and considering that he is probably *moderately* well informed but not necessarily an expert on eg bus timetables.