Santiago-London

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Santiago, Friday

1620 In slightly down-at-heel looking but as it turns out quite pricey restaurant 'Marrbella' somewhere not far from La Moneda, which I went to have a look at when finally left flat a bit before 3. Had seen it before but went into three-level exhibition/cinema area beneath which might have been new. Free and small exhibition on art & technology, and a paid exhibition by Robert (?) Matta which I didn't go into.

About 5k for bife a lo pobre here but sod it. Mainly worried as wd 20k earlier and don't want to have to make another if can help it. Have 40k stashed away but need to keep 10k for hotel tomorrow morning and ideally at least another 20k for emergency taxi to airport if necessary.

1656 Not the best bife a lo pobre ever but OK. Two fried eggs this time.

Getting a beer then will go for a bit of a wander, vaguely heading back to hotel. Want to be basically as packed as possible before I go out tonight so all I have to do tomorrow is spring lightheartedy out of bed, clean my teeth, shove my dirty clothes in my bad and pack the mobile charger.

1734 Getting bill. 7.3k with the beer. 8k with tip.

2144 At Crazy Bar, been here 45 mins or so. Walked over from hotel. Not super pedestrian friendly and a lot of tedious pedestrian crossings to negotiate but probably not that much slower than taking the metro all in all.

2153 That damn 'words to describe this girl without being disrespectful' song which haunted me on 2010 trip playing. Think I have not heard it in the previous three weeks.

2200 Oh yeah baby. Let's play it three times in a row. The way this shit playing I can't take no more...

2213 Just got second schop. Vague plan is to stay out til midnight or so; I think that's not pushing it too much, given I am 95% packed and need to be up by about 830.

Do need to be careful; I mean, it is Friday and there could easily be temptation.

I guess depending on the quality of the 'doorbell' arrangements the fact that woman is turning up at 9 to collect the key and the outstanding 9.6k is a bit of a  safeguard. Nonetheless, I really don't want to be leaving here at 5am (to take an extreme example). Does look like there might be a live band on. If so I might hope it will be like first Sat I was here on this trip and they will be playing from

Sat 1029 Was live band on, appropriately the same one I saw on my first night. Stayed til they finished, about 130 IIRC. Didn't want to get up this morning but not a major problem. Got up about 830.

Santiago, Thursday

1728 Sat outside some restaurantlbar place (D'Angelus Resto Bar) just off Plaza Brasil. Dunno if going to get served but let's see.

Got up late, about 1230. Metro over to Quinta Normal where I spent maybe 2-3h in museo de la memoria y los derechos humanos. Not exactly a barrel of laughs but informative and interesting.

Walking back to hotel with GPS assistance and this is the first place I've seen to eat which really had any appeal. Might be a funny time of day to be looking for food but still.

Could in principle find a supermarket and 'cook' in apartment, but I kind of feel I'd rather eat out since I'm going back home so soon. Were this a longer trip I might well take advantage.

No idea if I am going to get any attention from a waiter out here but hope springs eternal. Will give it 5-10 mins anyway, it's a free sit down if nothing else.

1740 Got menu. Fuck me is it expensive (CLP4500 for lomo liso, whatever that is, and another 1500 for fries) and there's nothing I know I can eat. Gonna have an overpriced draught Heineken (CLP1500, will have to be 2k with tip) then go somewhere else. Fuck knows how long this will take, I expect another 5-10 mins for waiter to come back and the same when I want to pay. Not exactly in a rush but could do without wasting time. Would just walk but I feel sort of obliged.

Will try handing over 2k note with order. If the waiter ever damn well comes back...

1805 OK, at some other place nearer hotel. Rather supercilious waiter said no s(c)hop, only litre or something didn't catch but in hindsight was probably a 330ml bottle. So I left. Don't think he was impressedd but TS.

Ordered steak and chips with diet coke. Holding back on full lomo a lo pobre; that will be something for tomorrow, my last full day. Getting a diet coke with it and then may have a schop here before going back to hotel (which is a couple of hundred metres away)

1841 Food quite good. Getting a schop. Wanted to wash my hands but there are two toilets labelled women and one unlabelled which had a woman in it. Staff waved me down to the other end of the restaurant when I waited outside the unlabelled one for woman to leave but there is nothing except a staff only door and one of the women's toilets down there. So fuck it. Hands feel annoyingly sweaty but what can you do?

I might ask the waiter when I get the beer, actually. Fuck em. He can show me.

1917 Just got bill. Just under 6k, 6.6 with tip. Not too bad with beer. Didn't ask about toilet, be back at hotel soon anyway. Off now.

2149 Was about 700m back to hotel; truth, though it kill me. Went back, tried to order some Xmas presents online, 3Ss and back out. At Crazy Bar on Pio Nono; much more 'normal' than last night. Believe there is live music later.

Fri 1426. Only got up an hour ago. No live music but was karaoke. I sang 'El Rey'. Got home about 4, in bed by about 6.

Need to get out and have a bit of an undirected wander. Last day but don't want to overdo it.

Santiago, Wednesday

0127 (Thursday). Well that was interesting. Went over to Pio Nono about 10. Universidad de Chile were playing an Ecuadorian team (Liga???) in what I gather was the final of the copa Bridgestone. Huge slightly scary crowds in the street screaming their heads off. Had a couple of beers at Crazy Bar. Was in there during second half and rather intimidating, if somewhat cool. Maybe I've just not experienced it but I think passions run even higher here than in the UK over these matters. After watching the cup presentation on TV the fans drifted off to celebrate in Plaza Italia just down the road; there was TV coverage. Stayed for one more though the bar was basically closing.

Managed to get a taxi (on meter, oddly enough - 3k) eventually in side street as probably not wise to venture back towards Baquedano metro/Plaza Italia.

A quiet night beer wise but quite cool. Definitely an experience, if a slightly scary one.

Writing this on balcony, might dredge MP3 player out and have a little listen (I am a sucker for balconies at night, as already noted) then bed. Hope not to get up too late tomorrow. Might go to human rights museum (there is a brochure in the flat for it tomorrow), or maybe will climb up the hill which has the statue of the virgin on top a second time. Vamos a ver. Maybe can even do both if don't get up too late.

Will send this now anyway.

Valparaiso-Santiago

0217 Hacked off to the max. Do not understand why I was such a sap. Still, I guess experience is cheap at any price and I had never been in that exact situation before. Not much of an excuse because it was blantantly stupid, but maybe sometimes you don't realise at the time. My much vaunted intellect let me down but it won't happen again the same way.

Anyway, to bed. Oh, and have to say this FUCK, FUCK, FUCK:

Certainly paints drunk chap this afternoon in a different light. And me. I am obviously a fool. At least I am less of a fool now, I hope, than I was.

0229 In bed. Feel like a total twat but it's OK. A cheapish lesson (albeit one I could hardly have believed I needed) at CLP9k. May have been inadvertently patronising to guy here at hostel but guess the key thing is he's 1k up and I'm out of here tomorrow. To quote something I don't remember, life teaches us its small lessons and we move on.

But fuck, I am annoyed with myself..

0234 Indeed. You've been a fucking idiot, Steve. But what's done is done and it's not happening again. Move on and try not to beat myself up. Still can't believe it but I could go on like that forever.

Anyway, bit pissed and whatever patronised guy said, best if I check out by 11. Want to waffle more but would just repeat myself so not gonna. To sleep, perchance not to dream.

1150 Didn't want to get up but did. Stood outside hostel now. Sneaked out like a thief at, err, midday - didn't see anyone. But I paid on arrival and had no key so all's good. Gotta walk over to laundrette to pick up clothes then get bus. Will waffle further about last night later no doubt but those two fuckers told me I needed to go to the Pullman Bus terminal to get to Santiago, not the main terminal. I haven't looked at guide book and probably won't now. My inclination is to put myself in the hands of a taxi driver once I get the laundry.

Oh yeah, and like I was going to check out by 11. ;-)

1231 Picked up laundry. Was in fact being folded when I arrived, by sheer coincidence. Good job I didn't turn up earlier.

At cheap restaurant practically next door. No menu as such except on board outside by ordered chicken and rice, to be slightly healthy. Apparently also comes with a soup of some kind. Perhaps a bit early to be eating but sod it.

Dredged guide book out, bus terminal is apparently eight blocks or so east of here on same road (Pedro Montt) so though bag is a touch heavy will probably walk it.

Restaurant guy asked where I was from but didn't guess I was English.

Faffed a bit with wearing bag as backpack on leaving hostel but I felt a bit of an idiot and more importantly couldn't get the hip belt remotely tight, so didn't bother. Need to play with it, maybe when back in UK.

1311 Place might be called Donde Luchiano. Absolutely stuffed. Shall get bill and strike out for bus terminal.

1322 Finally got bill. CLP2900 plus tip, which last night notwithstanding shall me around 10%.

1353 Sat on 1400 bus. Basic, no toilet but it's like an hour and a half. Got to terminal at 1340ish, because they nearly sold me a ticket for 1340 bus and I wasn't sure if I'd make it. I think this bus was cheaper; maybe the 1340 was semi-cama, I don't know. (This is 'clasico'.)

Loads of companies with service to Santiago but prices or frequencies not shown and I wasn't going to faff asking everyone, so just went with Tur-Bus.

Ticket was CLP2,500.

Bought 1.5 litre bottle of diet coke at terminal. Have half a bottle of water already and felt like a coke. The thing is, I nearly always have it with food and you get a tiny bottle (350ml max) and I always find myself wanting more but unwilling to pay restaurant prices for a second tiny bottle.

Didn't have the wit to choose a seat with the other one of the double free to give me a chance of a double to myself. As yet no one sat next to me - oh no, as I wrote that a pregnant woman with a fucking kid came and sat next to me. Cheapskate not springing for a separate seat for the sprog. I think there's a double free behind me but I don't reallly like to move. I'm feeling a little cramped.

One of those little lessons - at least try to pick a seat in a currently free double given the chance.

Oh, she - like loads of people here, it seems - favours pieces of pop music as ringtones at maximum volume.

Dunno why but suddenly thinking of the bus from Cuernavaca to Mexico City when I flew back to the UK for a week between Cuernavaca and Guadalajara. That was first time I'd taken a bus outside UK, I think. For some reason that must be in my mind; somehow the TV in the room (!) this morning (never turned it on of course, but surprisingly 'luxurious' for a hostel) reminded me of watching Beavis and Butthead with Spanish subtitles on the TV in my room in Cuernavaca while waiting for taxi to bus terminal.

Yer a fool, Steve. Why didn't I have my wits about me when choosing seat? Is a woman sat behind me anyway now. For all I know might be a double free right at back but not getting up to look.

Woman actually seems to be bitching slightly to the kid in Spanish about it not being a good seat. Well tough. Should have paid for an extra seat, shouldn't you? She might have the balls (metaphorically speaking) being a local and privileged by possession of a sprog to go for a wander. I half wonder if I should or could move next to someone else, on pretext of giving her space (but really at least as much for my own comfort) but I don't like to; hardly seems fair to whoever I move next to. Plus to be honest she can suffer, I have taken an irrational dislike to her.

Her fucking arm is resting on top of my left elbow.

1419 Ticket just checked and she didn't ask conductor if any other seats free, so I guess she's not moving. (I have the aisle, to be fair.)

I do feel a bit of a git but it's assigned seating and it's not like she's standing up because of me. And if the bus was full there'd be no alternative. Call me a misanthropic bastard if you like.

Maybe it would even look rude if I moved away, like I'm shunning her. Fuck it. Not moving unless she asks me to. I'm not doing anything wrong. Presumably she was prepared to sit with sprog on her lap when she bought the ticket, and she's got more than half the space.

To be scrupulously fair, she's probably OK. She asked me to reach down for her bag so she could get her ticket out perfectly pleasantly. I just hate the situation. Waffling too much but it helps to pass the time.

1500 Oh, drunk bloke yesterday afternoon also tried to make me a present of a quarter-full bottle of Chilean wine he had in his bag.

And the couple I met last night in the bar said it was rude to give a 10% tip on a small amount like 1k, and I should tip 500. I don't fucking know.

Battery at 34% but it's OK, should last me until checked in at apartment in Santiago.

1532 Lots of people including woman next to me just got off. I think, based on question guy asked me when I put my bag in the hold, this is some outlying terminal (it may actually be Pajaritos, though not sure - yes, it is, we just passed metro station) and we continue to a more central one. I hope it's somewhere like Estacion Central but as long as there's a metro will be OK.

1630 At apartment. Very nice; balcony (only eigth floor but still cool), actually have a second bedroom with bunk beds and a second bathroom. Bit of confusion at reception (it's an apartment building) but guy phoned up ("I have a foreign gentlemen here" he explained) and was met in apartment by woman from Elegebe. I had to pay cash, which was a surprise, but I had 80k on me and am going to pay remaining 9.6k when she picks key up on Saturday at 9am. I am a little worried about that as if she's late I am a bit screwed, but I guess if push comes to shove I can probably persuade the concierge to hold onto 10k and the key.

Oh, it is right outside Puente Cal y Canto metro. Like Metro Central Heights and the tube, perhaps better.

Bus got into terminal adjacent to Universidad de Santiago metro at 1540. Massive queue to buy ticket but got one, changed at Los Heroes and here. Hot as hell but didn't help having long sleeved shirt and fleece and with daypack slung over shoulder and carrying bag. Cooling down now and will have 3Ss in a bit.

Wow, the wifi even works and is a proper password rather than one of those 'open network and a web proxy asks for a password' setup. Will send this now and can start a separate entry for later.

Valparaiso, Tuesday

0031 Unfortunately no socket near bed so can't charge phone while I sleep. I expect to fall asleep fairly quickly so probably really ought to read Yes Man in bed and let phone charge but not going to. Will at least charge laptop overnight, on offchance I ever get wifi, so I can sit in lounge with it.

For first time am using the Howsarlock I brought with me to secure the door, in addition to the bolt. Not entirely sure why but I figure since the door is not going to be trivially openable from outside due to the bolt, and thus if I have a heart attack in the night I'm kind of fucked anyway, I might as well be as secure as possible.

Battery at 46%. This does suck a little. I really should charge the phone overnight but fuck it. I can give it a bit of a boost tomorrow morning.

OK, bed is extremely primitive. Appear to be two blankets and no (count 'em) sheets plus the counterpane quilty thing on top. I did actually bring a sleep sack or whatever the thing's called (basically a silk sleeping bag with no insulation) with me but I don't know if I will use it. (I bought it in a fit of enthusiasm after reading onebag.com; nowhere I've ever been has insisted I use one, and the website for this hostel made no mention of there being no sheets on the bed.)

On the heart attack front I guess I'm overly paranoid about not locking door so it has to be opened from inside in general. I mean, back home I am totally fucked if it happens, and it's not likely anyone would hear me here anyway, even if the door were totally unlocked and they could get in.

Anyway, battery at 51% and it's not gonna get that much higher if I wait. Will put in airplane mode overnight so at least battery won't be running down once I go to sleep.

0041 Accidentally pressed "power off" not "airplane mode". No prompts, are you sure, fucking thing just does it. No data loss but annoying. Anyways...

1210 Woohoo. Third person I asked gave correct wifi password. Precached map onto phone (at 81%, not too bad). Finally leaving hostel. (Still no key, but bag chained to bed so probably OK.) Carried bag of laundry with me, hope can find somewhere. May ask woman who gave me wifi key (might even be the one from yday, not sure).

1247 Did ask, she said there was a cheap one in Anbal Pinto but I have no idea where that is. Just dropped off at Lavaseco Ingles on Pedro Montt; laundrettes seem thin on ground here, fortunately I had looked this up in guidebook. Can pick up from ten tomorrow so may walk over here then get taxi to bus terminal. Not cheap, guy just weighed it in his hand and said 4k but not in a position to argue. He asked me where my name came from; I said I was English.

Anyway, wander a bit.

1516 At some small restaurant near port. No menu except that outside so on bife a lo pobre again. ;-) Got haircut in some small place near laundrette, slightly on a whim. 2k plus 250 tip.

Then got metro (train thing) to port, which cost 1.5k cos I had to pay 1.2k for a sort of Oyster card. Oh well. It's kind of a souvenir and maybe I won't have lost it by the next time I come back.

Wandered, went up one funicular, walked what seems like miles uphill then back down again somewhat at random to here. Might have a beer or two after this if I can find somewhere nice.

Oh, dunno what this place is called but sign over door says (IIRC) oldest restaurant in port, 1897.

Quite a lot of cats here; lost count of how many, whereas normally I might see one every other day. Three kittens - aww ;-)

2006 Well that was random. Will waffle later but just got back to hostel, at least two of the three Ses and a charge for the phone.

2146 OK. At some deserted bar in that stretch near hostel. None seemed great (one local-looking bar had Pink Floyd playing, but no free tables) and this place does a litre of Baltica for 1k (I paid at bar and tipped 100, big spender baby!) So I figured WTF. May pick up later, if not might move, no big deal. Drinking too much but fuck it, only four nights left.

Fuck, this is 5.8%. Tastes OK.

Oh, stopped off in a shop on way out. Guy behind counter asked if I was British/English (can't remember). Vaguely shocked. I mean, sure, my accent, while excellent, lacks the fine details which deceive the locals. But to guess I'm British is a little odd, especially as I gather Brits are not super-common here in Chile.

Anyway, this afternoon. Already waffled about this on (nearly) full-sized netbook keyboard back at hostel to Rab and JR but let's write it here again.

As I was finishing up bife a lo pobre, guy (late twentiesish) at next table asked where I was from in English. Shortly after invited me to join him and his two friends. All cool.

After he offered to take me to a bar to hear Chilean music. Figuring a) it was broad daylight b) I was sober (I got a litre while taking to them, but shared it round a little) and c) I'd already had my fill of walking and sightseeing, I decided to roll with it. His friends didn't join us and I wonder if he'd just met them.

He was obviously a little drunk in the restaurant. He spent the walk over to the bar (he kept popping in places to ask if there was a certain type of bar nearby) talking to me loudly and repetitively about how it was heart and friendship that was important, not money.

On the way over he tried to drunkenly (*not* Mr Smooth) chat up two women stood outside some shop handing out leaflets. Embarrassing.

He quietened down in the bar, though we shook hands about once a minute on average. He ordered a litre of beer and appeared to pay for it, which surprised me. (I fully expected to be in the chair, but I figured if the expenses were moderate it was worth it for the experience.) I got a pitcher after that - I had to insist I would pay, he wanted to - and when I did pay it turned out he hadn't paid for the litre, he had just got change for the jukebox. Cost me about 4k for the litre and the pitcher.

He kept putting Chilean songs on the jukebox and telling me to listen and explaining the lyrics. That was sort of cool. According to one song, Valparaiso is 'el hoya (sp) del pacifico', the jewel of the Pacific.

(Oh, I double checked at hostel about not needing a key to get in after midnight. Don't plan a late one but nice to know I don't have to be super paranoid.)

The somewhat odd bit was that about 25% or less into the pitcher, he wanted to go to the bank before they shut at 7 because he had no money and his ATM card was lost. I offered to guard the pitcher while he went, but he was quite keen for me to go with him. So I did. The staff agreed to keep the pitcher for half an hour and - as Douglas Adams pointed out, stress being a major problem these days - I shall point out now that, amazingly they did.

He kept asking everyone for directions to the right kind of bank. En route he asked for change to buy a snack and I gave him a big handful (probably 1-2k tops). We eventually got to the bank. He was an amiable drunk idiot in the queue. Surprise surprise, they wouldn't give him any money. At this point I was mainly anxious to get back before the pitcher was lost, and we did get back OK.

In the bar he asked me for money. I had already taken the precaution of saying I'd like to lend him some (we were mates, after all) but my card was back at the hostel. He wanted 5k but I said (and except for what I had hidden, and that was just 10k plus ultra-emergency 20k in zipped trouser belt) I only had 2k and did give him that.

We finished the pitcher and on the way out he had the gall to remind me to tip the waiter for keeping the pitcher. (To be fair, I had intended to do so but forgot.) I gave him a disposable yet genuine e-mail address on a napkin and he took me over to a taxi rank opposite. I had cried off on pretext of being drunk and wanting to sleep (I wasn't; I had maybe 2 litres over 4-5 hours). I also said I had no more money and he said he had. Err, whatever.

Taxi driver very nice and chatty, though I guess I had also just had the edge taken off my inhibitions by the beer and minor adrenaline rush. Had to dredge out the reserve 10k to pay but I knew I would have to and the guy changed it with a slight protest (I did explain, I hope comprehensibly, how I didn't know the guy who had accompanied me to taxi and how he was an amiable drunk and I'd paid for everything) so all cool.

SS and then used free wi-fi (very speedy, actually, though I guess it's domestic broadband shared between one guest, me) to upload all the photos I hadn't got round to and e-mail a couple of mates.

Perhaps shouldn't have come out tonight but as I say, I am on holiday so sod it. Time to (go back to) restraint once I am back home.

As I think I said earlier, I sort of suspected it was a bit of a scam but as always I don't mind as long as it's minor, and I reckon it cost me CLP10k tops. It's worth it for the chat and experience, and as long as I go into it with my eyes open I don't feel exploited after. Sometimes it's nicer than others; as I think I said, what was nice about those guys in La Serena on Sunday was they didn't seem to be taking advantage.

I do have a lingering suspicion the guy this afternoon (he told me his name but I forgot; he called me 'London' or 'Londres' all afternoon) was not a complete scam; he seemed quite genuine in a way, though doubtless there was a strong sponging element. Still, all cool.

Would be embarrassing to bump into him now but I think it's very unlikely. Besides, if I do, I have had my sleep and fancied a beer. Also not giving him any money, if he did say anything I would say 'surely you got some, or how can you be out drinking?'.

Still only person here. Not a big deal, it's not like I'm busting for chat after this afternoon and there was like one other customer in the corner in Matiz (sp?) last night. I expect I shall be out in lively places in Santiago. Only question is whether I will go elsewhere after this litre just on offchance. Hardly touched it so far due to writing all this so no rush.

Ooh, a guy just walked in!

I am lurking in dark corner behind door. As solo customer I might be a magnet for random people but maybe that's OK and probably not.

2215 Guy was a wandering vendor who just tried to flog me some purses. Saw him off OK anyway.

"I want to be forever young" playing. Hmm....

Oh, I have an idea I overheard the barman telling vendor chap I was British. Maybe not. But this is freaky. I might be a gringo but I can't understand why my nationality is suddenly being pinpointed so precisely.

2230 Weird medley of old English language hits. We just had a bit (sadly not the whole thing) of "Safety Dance" (complete with video on tiny TV in corner). Couple of guys come in. Owner/barman went and stood on street leaving me in here solo for a while. Resisted temptation to steal a short. :-)

Might well stick on here. At the rate I'm drinking (and with IIRC 11 or 1130) checkout one more litre will do me. It's cheap, quite nicely down at heel and I'm not looking to meet anyone. Just don't like being only person in the place and we seem to have met that objection. "Staying alive".

2241 Music is like "greatest (English language) hits of 80s and 90s for people with ADD". My tastes are naff enough to like it, but I'd rather hear the full songs. The one consolation is I didn't have to listen to much of "Let's talk about sex", which I have always despised. Such naff rhymes, such lack of content.

Maybe 4-5 other guys here. Place is basically a somewhat bare room maybe 4x10m, with tables. Tis cool. Feel a bit odd here on own but I am lurking right in the corner and I feel fine really.

2248 Almost wondering if will have time for another. Guess at this price can leave half of it.

Been thinking how to describe this place. It might be like Prague (though my memory is hazy) and it reminds me of a photo I saw of Tallinn. Lots of streets hilly as fuck. Stairs on the pavements.

Between here and hostel is a proper distinct stairway off the street which cuts off some of the horizontal distance followed by the snaking road. Went down it this morning and on way out tonight but will probably follow road up. I suspect it's fine but I don't know how well lit the stairway is and even if it is well lit, it would be a prime site for a robbery. I don't think that's actually likely but why go out of my way to invite trouble? On the proper street I can keep away from dark doorways and so forth, there is room to move away from anyone I don't like the look of, etc. Of course if push comes to shove will hand wallet etc over. Wd cash to top up reserves earlier so annoyingly do have my cash card (the most valuable thing, not directly - it's worthless to a criminal - but in terms of access to cash) in wallet, along with 100k. Just might switch card and most of cash back into hidden belt in bog before I leave.

Few more people coming in. Really kind of hope no one does talk to me but probably not likely and guess you've got to take it as it comes.

2255 Just checked still have torch in pocket and found CD-case style (I think) calendar thing guy this afternoon gave me shortly after met him in restaurant as a present. He did also try to give me a ring when we were in the bar (before we went to the bank) but I refused it as politely as I could, saying he had already given calendar. He may just have been drunkenly friendly but a) I didn't want the damn ring and b) I am aware of the reciprocity principal in social conformance and didn't want to be put under obligation, if he was consciously or unconsciously (and my cynical side leans to the former here) trying to exploit it.

2309 Still not finished this litre. That's a bad thing to say, I guess. Not out to get drunk. Am gonna buy another, probably after a piss - no risk of losing table tonight - but may not finish it. Had shower earlier and will have one when I get to apartment in Santiago (which I hope is as nice as expedia site makes it out to be; I do like a nice pseudo-home-from-home in a big city, though doubtless a hostel might be matier - still, I am sorted in that respect in Santiago anyway). So just need to get up, one S in the morning and be out by 11. Pick up laundry and get random bus to Santiago. Guess I will be checked in and all sorted by 2-3pm. First time I will have arrived in Santiago by bus and if the local buses from here are like the long distance ones, will be an easy metro trip to the apartment.

2316 Oh, should say chat with guy earlier was probably 80% Spanish. I keep fucking my tenses up enormously but in general sympathetic people can understand me (call me "Comte de Frou Frou" ;-) - I love that quote) and also, in hindsight, the guy was hardly listening to a word I said. I remember he asked me for my phone no and I started explaining about crap roaming rates and temporary SIMs and somehow I just ended up stopping after about a minute and it never came up again.

That was cool really, and that aside, Valparaiso is very cool. I am a sucker for heights and views and the hilly streets are romantic as fuck, never mind the trolleybuses and the funiculars (of which I saw only the one I used, though there are apparently maybe ten or so). Would definitely come back here another time.

Guy this afternoon said Vina del Mar is like Miami (he has a brother there, if I believe it). So probably not my sort of place.

"99 red balloons" in the original German has just taken its place in the ongoing medley. (Cheers Patty for teaching me to recognise it. :-) ) "Don't get me wrong" now.

Fuck, I am gonna be here late if not careful.

"Walk like an Egyptian". Fuck, I wish they'd play the proper songs. Jive Bunny or what.

Pictures of the Beatles and John Lennon on wall.

"Ballroom Blitz" now.

2326 Had piss (transferred card to hidden belt, tho no cash as no lock on cubicle and tho bar is almost empty preferred not to fuck with that) and got another litre. Aware, and have been for a day or two, that I have a Spanish problem right there. "Otro litro de baltica". Cerveza is feminine, so is otra cerveza. But 'litra' doesn't sound right, yet not sure 'litro' is either, and yet that forces me into the masculine. A minute with a dictionary would sort me out. Suspect 'Otra litra de baltica' is better but not sure. (Even if don't say otro/a, same issue with un/una.) Ah, I'd like to be fluent but am further off than was a year or so ago. WTF. Two steps forward, one step back. Maybe I will do that A-level style study over Christmas and finally do the two steps forward.

Don't want to be out super late but don't want to go home. Wondering if would be rude to tip guy who let's me in 1k. Have never tipped in hostel yet for anything, doesn't seem right, but still. I suspect I genuinely am the only guest right now. I could have paid even less for a dormitory (given I have no key to room, I have to act like am in one, and in dormitory I might at least have a locker to use my padlock on instead of just a chain) and been equally comfortable. Still, the hostel is hardly pricey (under CLP10k a night) and if a tiny bit creepy (less so now I am used to it) its faded elegance is quite appealing. It's the sort of building I half dream of buying and emigrating to, while at the same time being so large I would be scared shitless to leave there on my own.

Ooh, four young women just came in. I do suspect I am out far too early. In Santiago I know better; meeting a friend at 10pm tomorrow. Here I am sure it's the same but my own 'lifestyle' (hostel, bus) made me inclined to come out earlier. It's only Tuesday but still, I think I have just enough exposure to the local culture to know this isn't a Liverpool St kind of place. (Meet 5-8pm, drink, off by 11.) And I came out kind of knowing it was early but also knowing I didn't feel equal to trying for local hours. If/when I come back here (ideally with full permission from hostel - I don't want to fuck anyone over) with more time, I would naturally gravitate to local hours.

As a tourist the late culture suits me down to the ground - I am not a morning person. I do wonder what it's like for the local with a job.

Not directly related to previous paragraph, but despite being a tourist and around at various times during the day, I always find it odd when I see someone in a suit. Yes, I am asleep during morning rush hour but never noticed much during what must be evening rush hour. Maybe I've been in the wrong places. Or maybe it's relaxed, in the same sense IT in Canary Wharf is.

Will - WTF - say that it has occurred to me, if not for first time, during trip that I am, despite my own feelings, actually a surprisingly successful person. I earn a relatively large amount of money (even by London standards, never mind locally), I have been able to take six weeks off while working, I had that time off last year. I am not strapped for cash like the SYTs sometimes are, even if I don't like to waste it. I am envious of their youth but I've done OK and I am not sure I'd care to go back to their age and work my way back to where I am now. I won't say it's been gruelling but I've put my time in, earned my position (albeit with a little luck), I'm pretty good at what I do and now I can take it a little easy (before my job is stolen by outsourcing ;-) ) and have a bit of fun. And if I'm a bit less stressed about money than the SYTs, so be it. (And I am paying, not my parents.) I've paid the price, done my time, put my hours in and they have that all to come. Thank fk it's not 40yrs ago and I have the chance to take advantage of my position rather than being compelled to stick it out until I retire.

Probably a drunk passage but WTF.

2346 We just had a snatch of 'borracho y loco'. I've got to buy a copy of that.

0001 Feeling a bit pissed suddenly. Gonna leave shortly. Might add have seen a few Pink Floyd ads around, I think a local tribute band might be playing shortly but date was no good for me. Shame, would have been a cool thing to have seen. If memory serves is called 'Brain Damage', braindamage.cl.

Feel bad about getting back. Bad for self image. Must admit, naff as it is, I love walking the streets here (in Chile/Latin America, not just Valparaiso), especially in the evenings, I feel very cosmpolitan and have a stupid pride in my poor language skills. And I would love to be either the relaxed but sophisticated traveller having a quiet beer, or the cosmopolitan guy mixing with the locals. Tonight is not that, primarily cos it's not the latter and am too disturbed about being a git at the hostel (and with the bus tomorrow). Ah well, I do OK.

0007 Just gave bottle away on genuine grounds of having to get away. Feel a bit stupid but at least it's not going to waste. Still have rest of this glass. Feeling oddly drunk but am sure am not that bad, will probably sober up on leaving and hey, as long as I get up, who cares.

0259 Fuck fuck fuck. Just got back. The beer hand-off resulted in me meeting two Chileans. That would be cool except they both asked me for money for something I shall pretend I don't know about. I had a beer or two with them and I reckon I gave them 9k over the course of three occasions and I DON'T KNOW WHY. They were very nice and excepting that cool but how they came to have the balls to ask for money and why I gave it to them I do not fucking know. I am not normally a total twat nor was I desperate for companionship. I feel, while it was my choice, far more played than I did this afternoon.

I am somewhat pissed but by no means off my face and I really don't understand what I just did. I should have told them to fuck off.

Got into hostel OK, gave guy 1k tip and he was reluctant to accept it but I said something along lines of how I'd just met some shit guys and 1k was nothing. Asked him and he said I had to checkout at midday. Was a bit drunk climbing stairs and checked time with him. Will aim to leave earlier alll the same. Feel genuinely played and I do not understand, drunk or not, why I was such a compliant twat.

Fuck fuck fuck. Anyway, am a little pissed now - I had some beers with those guys and except for the 'donations' would be cool - so best go to bed. But man do I feel fucking annoyed and played.

Gotta say it again. FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK.

Valparaiso, Monday

2003 In extremely 'cafeteriaish' restaurant in town. Biffe a lo pobre. Sod it. CLP4040 with diet coke, paid up front (Schopdog-style)

Got to hostel about 630 or 7. Extremely large old house, quite elegant if a bit run down. No other guests AFAICT. They can't find key to my room so have chained bag to bed. Hope get it later.

Wifi doesn't reach to room. Not been able to download map to phone and don't have map on paper. Took GPS waypoint of hostel. V picturesque but hilly here, so streets curve like buggery. Hope will be able to get back OK. Not sure I saw any streetlights.

Guy said could get into hostel when I like but he turns lights off at 12. Not sure what to make of that. Am gonna be out a bit tonight if only cos don't want to sit around in hostel but will be quietish.

Oh, there are those 'hand shaped' chairs all over the place, including one in my room (which is a twin, actually), which add to the oddity.

Lot of OKish-looking little pubs a few streets from hostel.

Had shower and changed into one clean shirt. Long-sleeved and feeling a tiny bit warm.

Put phone on charge and up to 68% now. Should be OK even taking a GPS track as I am to try to avoid getting lost.

2033 Enormous portion; have to leave a lot of chips. Not the best steak but OK. Took a photo of the legendary biffe a lo pobre on my phone which I hope I shall upload sooner or later.

Stuffed. Would have liked more diet coke (only a 350ml bottle) but a beer or two will doubtless go down a treat. Do hope to take it easy tonight but it seems a bit silly to deliberately go home now. I only have five days including today left, then I will be off the beer for the flight home and recuperation on Sunday. Then another four days at most going out and off up to Skegness for a week on Friday evening.

Anyway, gonna leave CLP300 on table as tip; actually make it 400 and wander a bit. (It's 2037.)

2106 At Pub Matriz. They are playing "Suedehead", which may be a good omen. CLP700 for 500ml bottle Becker (cheapest option).

Wandered a bit. Lots of the bars either deserted or seemed to have people stood outside which always puts me off.

This seems OK. As it happens it's the one nearest hostel although I passed over this little stretch in its entirety twice and also wandered around the commercial centre nearby a little. Main sightseeing time is tomorrow, of course.

2123 "Just won't do" (?) just played. Don't really like it but I think I remember seeing the video when I was at that restaurant in Mexico City where I had a row about the bill.

2132 Oh, saw a cat in a shop doorway earlier and it let me stroke it. Reminds me that at Mamalluca, a cat turned up (I just got a glimpse of it; I mean, it was dark and there were a lot of people even in the smaller groups doing the observations). Despite the preponderance of native speakers, there was still confusion over whether there was a cat (gato) or rat (rata). Odd, to me, was one oldish woman who said she hated cats and looked scared when it turned out it wasn't a rat.

2145 The streets here are two-way, it seems. I am somehow no longer used to that and am gonna get run over if not careful. Oh, and they do have trolleybuses in some of the streets here, with a perfect rat's nest of cables above.

Nearly finished this beer. Feeling a little tired. Probably for the best. Will prob have a slow one or two more then home; I may even be able to get the wifi to work.

Oh, and the taxis here have meters. It's weirdly different from all the other places I've been in these little details.

2153 Just ordered another.

2242 And a third. Feel a little pressed for time but unless I get lost hostel really is like 5 mins walk. Battery at 26% but should see me through.

2246 Only one other customer and about three staff here, by the way. But it's fine. It's Monday and possibly early by local standards. Not looking for a big night anyway.

2313 One glass left of this 500ml bottle, just paid. 2100 as expected plus 200ish tip. Oddly nervous about getting back but should be fine.

2319 OK, feeling a bit bloated, have rushed this one slightly I think. Oh well. Anyway, one more swallow and off.

2326 Back. 240mish straight line. Stiffish uphill walk but OK. Quite a few people in street too. Really worrying over nothing, except possibly hostel being shut. Think it's cos Valle de Elqui tour guide said to that youngish German couple Valparaiso was a bit dodgy at night. She was probably referring to area round bus terminal anyway.

2349 Staff fucking elusive verging on nonexistent. Wifi doesn't work even sat in lobby. Asked some bloke for password and he gave me something totally different to what the bloke who showed me my room told me. Still didn't work. So that's another tenner I'm going to have to burn on roaming data. WHY THE FUCK IS IT SO HARD TO GET INTERNET ACCESS!? It's not just the blog, I have e-mail I need to send.

I suspect the only person who may know the true password is the woman who checked me in and who I assume is owner. (Do wonder if fat bloke in lobby/reception/lounge bit is her husband. No idea.) Fuckety fuck fuck fuck. Not seen her since I checked in. Saw bloke who showed me my room as I came upstairs but not since.

Still no key to room but is at least a bolt on inside of door.

Sweating like a bastard for some reason as well. Oh well. Spunk a tenner away because the free wi-fi doesn't work then clean teeth and bed I guess.

2358 A mysterious £1.50ish has appeared after I topped up another tenner despite it showing zero earlier. FFS. Anyway, will send this now and if I do have any wafflings later they can go in next entry. Dogs barking outside which is a bit disconcerting somehow.

Bus La Serena-Valparaiso

1137 At terminal. Bus due 1140 but another by same company marked 1105 only left five mins ago. I and some English backpacking woman who asked me the time are both on the 1140 to Valparaiso and we both determined that was not the right bus. I guess I shouldn't worry but would be good if the thing would turn up.

Got up super late, staying in bed a bit too long, at about 1035. Thought bus was 1130 but actually 1140. Cleaned teeth but didn't shower and still wearing same T-shirt as yday and day before, but WTF. Will shower when get to hostel tonight and put my one clean shirt on then, then take laundry tomorrow morning.

Managed to get taxi at stand near hostel, even tipped only 200 on top of the 2500 fare. Bough big bottle of water, 580ml diet coke at kiosk in terminal. Seeing myself standing next to a sort of cafe I went in. They do a 'ham only' sandwich so I asked if it really was 'ham only', ie no mayo. They didn't have that but they did have ham & cheese, so I had that. Bit pricey at 1200 (plus sign said 900-ish) but still.

Ah think bus is here.

No, it says 11:00 Salamanca.

Backpacker woman also stood around down concourse. Don't want to intrude on her but also good to keep an eye out as she acts as reassurance I'm not missing my bus.

Anyway, last night. With that pitcher I introduced myself at a nearby table, intending to give it away. I ended up getting invited to sit down (I did knock over my own glass as I stood up, but that was more of a hitting the table than a real drunk thing) and chatting with them. (Understood maybe 50% but all very amicable.) Probably drank most of it myself but they did drink a bit.

Ended up going for a drive with the three of them. This arguably wasn't super-smart but fuck it, I did feel OK with them (and they weren't really drunk, but yes, drink driving issues). Place they intended to go was shut but we ended up in some small obscure cafe cum bar with them (I just had a few chips) sharing chicken and chips and having a beer. They weren't really on the scrounge; I gave them 1k (all I conveniently had) when we got to that place and that was it.

They drove me back into town after, in fact they called me back after I walked off (not sure why, think they thought I was going in wrong direction). Quite nice chaps, one 38, one 34, one 22ish. We spoke a little about the education protests, as I understand it it's a bit like the UK situation, costs to students going up compared to what it used to be like.

I don't think I was a drunk twat and if I was, fuck it, it was still cool.

1148 Still here, but so is backpacker woman so it must be cool. Those last two buses suggest 40-odd mins delay not unusual, and it also happened to me here a couple of weeks ago. I guess La Serena is in the middle of longer distance routes so tends to suffer from delays incurred en route. Maybe not though as at least northbound you might expect it to be first stop after Santiago and hence pretty reliable, so it's probably just poor scheduling.

1159 On bus. Final destination Valparaiso, must stop somewhere else first as luggage guy wanted Valparaiso bags first (presumably so they're at the back of the luggage compartment). Not moved yet. No one sat next to me yet but think someone will.

Got something like 3 or 4 mostly half full bottles of water in daypack. Thing weights a ton. Just looked, 3 big bottles, one I just bought full, one nearly empty and one half full. Need to either drink up or transfer contents and throw one away. This is dull but I'm a little bored and can't relax properly until we get moving and whoever is sat next to me has got on. (I got an aisle seat, as usual.)

This is the last long-distance bus of the trip. Valparaiso-Santiago is something like 1.5h and if I recall guide book correctly, there's a bus every few minutes during the day.

1206 OK, we're off and at least for now have double seat to myself. Which is nice.

Fleece pockets somewhat bulging, apropos of nothing. In part this is mainly my cap in one pocket and the mobile charger (complete with UK-Chile adapter) in the other but I should probably try to de-bulk them. (For the record, mainly because writing it might make me remember, the plugs here have two narrow cylindrical pins, not to US-style (?) blades. I think I said it before, but I have only one correct adapter with me and two of the US-style ones because I got confused.)

1213 Musing over whether to top up credit or not. Apparently I have £2.46 anyway. Am sure it was zero other day. Have noticed it fluctuating bizarrely before though. Will try to send yday's blog entry then.

1223 Coquimbo.

1230 Still got my double seat. Come on, shut the doors you bastards! :-)

I still have those biscuits I bought in Iquique. Suspect they're all crumbled by now but still. Not actually hungry but they crossed my mind. What I would like is another diet coke; I have lashings of water, some of it even cold, but a drink with some flavour would be nice. Oh well, can't have everything.

Occurs to me should I pass this way on a future trip Coquimbo might be a good alternative stopover to La Serena. It's virtually next door and I suspect has more-or-less the same buses, but I never really made it here so it would be a bit of a change.

1233 Off, and still with double seat. Yay!

1242 It's odd but I find myself looking back almost wistfully at the far distant past, viz yesterday, sat on the terrace at El Santo drinking overpriced beer. But you can't go back. :-)

Yes, I am slightly bored, hence frequent blog entries about nothing.

1348 Just been given a snack. Cheese and nothing else sandwich. Woohoo! Oh, and the usual tiny poke-hole-with-straw carton of 'Nectar Sprim Damasco', which is a welcome bit of flavour. I have no idea what damasco is, and I just looked it up in my dictionary and it says 'damask', which I have some hazy idea is a kind of rose. The picture on the carton looks a little bit like a peach; well, it has a big stone in the middle anyway. Tastes OK anyway.

Frankly bored out of my skull. Oh well.

1421 Wrote an e-mail to Zuhamy about last night. The more I think about it, the more the drink-driving aspect of it scares me. I mean, the guy was not off his face or anything, but I'm pretty sure he'd had a few. Oh well, I did survive and it's over now. Maybe I'll be more aware of that sort of thing next time. Thinking back I have never been in that situation before; if I have gone anywhere with anyone it's always been by taxi.

Battery at 59% but guess I have been using phone a lot. Do have Yes Man but would rather not read it, and should be able to charge phone while having shower at hostel prior to going out. If I do go out; I probably will but in a way it would be good to have a quiet night. On the other hand, I am on holiday and I don't want to waste time. We'll see, I guess.

Just totted up and I reckon I drank about 15-6 litres of beer over the last seven days. Not good really but I guess it could be worse. Week before was about 12, which is not good either but better. I am on holiday I guess, and I will have a good week and a half off completely over Christmas. I am not drinking massively most days (last night was quite unusual), it's just that I am drinking every day.

1749 Think we are at Villa Alemana terminal. Last little bit seems to be taking forever. Oddly apprehensive about getting taxi to hostel. Still, should be daylight.

Torn over whether to go out tonight or not. Will take a view on it later I guess.

1815 Probably at Vina del Mar terminal.

La Serena, Sunday

1344 Annoyed. Three people left dormitory this morning so went to reception and asked if could move to lower bunk. Cool, woman told me to tell cleaner and I did. I have been leaving my daypack full of low value items on bed as marker but cleaner at this point was insistent it was safer to put it in locker.

When put netbook away after booking hostels etc, was a bloody sleep mask on lower bunk. I have shifted it to upper and dumped my daypack on there but I suspect it's gonna get moved and I will not be in a position to argue. Not the end of the world but annoying. I am assuming there is some kind of 'beach towel' arrangement (despite the signs saying you should tell reception which is yours so they know which to make) but I wasn't sure so didn't like to argue with cleaner when she was so adamant about me putting it away. I guess once this is done I will know next time for sure.

At some hopefully cheap restauarant where there doesn't seem to be a menu, though they sort of pretend there is. Lots of stuff listed on board out front, waitress listed exactly three dishes when asked and none of them were familiar. So having chicken and chips.

Hacked off over this fucking territorial dispute, primarily because I know I've lost. Will console myself with trying not to worry if I disturb lower occupant on returning late.

Booked hostel (single room) in Valparaiso for Mon/Tue nights and apartment in Santiago for Wed-Fri. Checked flight online just to make sure; netflights seemed to have lost it, but it's on viewtrip.com with the Galileo reference. Am assuming I can pick up a bus at random tomorrow but for sheer lack of anything to do may walk down to bus terminal after eating and see.

Hostel wifi worked on netbook but refused to work on phone again. I think I keep getting free Skype credit with my hostelworld bookings and was going to try to apply it but not joy.

Walked around with bag of clothes this morning trying to find open laundrette but it's Sunday. Will just have to push it a little (wearing same T-shirt as yday and which I accidentally slept in - wasn't going to climb down a second time just to take it off, having had to do that once already for my glasses) and should be able to get some done in Valparaiso if I get up earlyish Tuesday.

Food here anyway.

1412 Not bad. Portion as a whole not gigantic but OK. Quarter chicken over here seems more substantial than in the UK somehow. May even eat a second time later today out of sheer boredom.

Really don't want to go to bus terminal but it's exercise and there's nothing else to do so... Thinking about it, if there are plenty of buses, I may not buy a ticket anyway - it would put the pressure on tomorrrow morning. Depends on times of buses I guess.

Oh, this is a rotisserie chicken place - they have a rack of chickens rotating as you come in, and just saw waitress handling a skewer of chickens.

Will be a bit rushed in Valparaiso - Monday evening, all day Tuesday and checkout being at 11 will probably be on a bus to Santiago by midday or 1ish Wednesday. But there's no pressing reason to stay here another day and Valparaiso sounds quite cool (hills with ascensores, trolleybuses) so what the hell. I also don't want to arrive (food 3.4k, 3.8k with tip) in Santiago too early; I like the place but don't want to overdo it, and I will have three nights (tho Fri not a proper night, with needing to be at airport 1030 so checkout probably 830-9) and two full days there as it is.

1451 At terminal. Just paid 13k for 1140 bus tomorrow morning. Bit sucky but the one other company I asked who had a bus had it at 9pm-ish. Also a bit pricey given IIRC it was 7k up from Santiago to here and Valparaiso isn't that far from Santiago. One company had a price list up showing 10k but no one at their window to ask for times or to buy from.

Not the end of the world. As yesterday (and indeed the first night ever at Aji Verde when had double to myself, which is also off lower terrace) will doubtless be awakened 9ish by conversation of SYTs breakfasting. Getting up 930-10 bit of a pisser but not too bad. Think I actually got up about 10-1030 today anyway.

Think it's 6-7 hr journey. Bit crap doing it during day; my planning has arguably been a little poor lately but don't want to overdo the plans. Might have been better to have travelled overnight tonight, but I'd then arrive super early tomorrow (probably 4-5am) and while as it happens today has been dull (relaxing, let's say ;-) ) I couldn't know that in advance, and if I'd only booked one night here I'd have been more rushed yesterday, so there's a kind of knock-back effect.

Am wondering if might have been better to spend Wednesday night in Valparaiso instead of Santiago but it's all booked now and not the end of the world etc etc.

Oh, couldn't remember word for 14 when choosing seat. Said '10-4' and woman didn't have a clue. Don't think she was very impressed with my Spanish in general...

1504 Partly for "old times sake" and partly cos while pricey it is quite nicely classy and has a (temperature) cool terrace, come to El Santo opposite bus terminal. Not eating, just gonna have a hopefully slow beer or two before wandering again.

Tooks GPS coords of bus terminal just in case. It's 1.5km from hostel in straight line, probably further by the grid, so I don't really want to walk it, but depending on when I end up checking out, the weather (it's been relatively cool and overcast here so far, a bit of sun now but not unpleasantly hot) and the availability of taxis I may do so.

Cut my bottom lip shaving this morning (bit careless, been using decent wet razor bought here last time ever since) and it's a bit uncomfortable at times.

Oh, waitress said 'cerveza?' when I asked for 'schop', so do wonder if it's not draught here (as I said before, it seems a bit more flavoursome than typical lager) and they just don't give you the bottle to pour it yourself.

Really do need to work on my Spanish when I get back to the UK. I know practice is important but I think I really do need to study up on the building blocks like the basic tenses. I am essentially living entirely off present and the 'he hecho' form of the past, plus 'voy a comer' form of future. Eked out with tiny bit of largely forgotten preterit (which has a lot of irregulars; I think I stick to 'fue' mostly) and imperfect. Yes I need practice to use them properly (and we're not even getting onto the subjunctive here, never mind general vocabulary) but I need them in my head as 'facts' before I can do so. Maybe a bit of 'A-level revision'-esque study is well overdue. Thought this before and not got round to it of course, but maybe this time will be different.

Battery at 46%. Been using what (taking the phrase from Dave Gorman's "America Unchained") I shall refer to as 'destroyer tactics'. I am keeping phone charger in pocket and whenever I get the chance (eg while having any of the three S's at the hostel) I whack the thing onto charge. You can squeeze an extra 5-10% or more into it quite easily if those activities are prolonged, and it all adds up.

1541 Apropos of nothing, some of the SYTs were talking about the Salar de Uyuni trip over breakfast this morning. General consensus seemed to be that altitude sickness pills were de rigeur and that it was a problem. Admittedly one or two people referred mainly to getting breathless after climbing a few stairs (which I had) but that's hardly altitude sickness. The thing is, I don't recall most of the people I was with having problems (maybe because they took tablets, not that I think they did, but if they took them in anticipation how could they know they *needed* them?). I almost wonder if there's an element of 'reverse bragging' here - people claiming to have felt worse than they did to make it seem more adventurous. You'd still think people would prefer to say they had no problems, and I struggle to believe most people do have problems, unless I was just very lucky and my group was too, or I didn't observe them well.

Battery 31% but sod it. If (hahaha) I keep the lower bunk I can actually charge phone in bed, but I shall probably (I can't drink or wander all afternoon) spend an hour or two milling around the hostel reading Yes Man while charging phone sometime this afternoon anyway. Not exactly keen to sit around like a lemon but needs must.

Was wondering if should push for more dormitory experience (it's clearly just a matter of learning the ropes) by deliberately staying in one in Valparaiso but when they actually had a single room (rather than paying for a double to myself) for not much more than the dormitory here I couldn't resist. I still have tonight to get through anyway and don't want to overdo it. If I had more time left I might (somewhat paradoxically) have gone for it, and similarly had it been a case of paying for a double to myself I might have gone for it.

Really on these 'while on a contract' trips I am cash rich and time poor (unlike 2010 to a certain extent), although at the same time I never like to spend more than really necessary to have a good time. On the other hand, it may be that doing things on a lower budget (even if by choice rather than necessity) helps meet people. On the third hand, I don't want to seem desperate to meet people by deliberately going ultra low budget.

In purely financial terms, the flights cost about £40/day (off top of head, but right area) for a trip this short, so almost any other expenditure is minor by comparison. (Very roughly - there is some variation from place to place - you're looking at 7-15 quid for a dormitory bed, 10-20 for a single room and 20 quid for an overnight semi-cama bus.)

Oh, there was a probably 60ish Dutch woman on the Mamalluca tour last night who was going to hook up with some 20something SYT Germans in Santiago. I didn't speak to them but overheard it in bus back, which was interesting.

Did tour in Spanish BTW. Understood 25-50%, dropping to 10% for the powerpoint presentation of astronomical stuff I already knew done over a (fairly clear) microphone. I do think the guy doing the tour, while a nice chap, was probably speaking in a very Chilean manner and at full speed. I could have done an English tour but my entire group was Spanish-speaking (at least of the two) and a) I didn't want to get separated, as it all felt a bit slapdash and didn't want to get stranded up there at midnight and b) they asked - in Spanish, dur - on the bus on the way up if anyone wanted the tour in English and I didn't say anything, so I thought it might be confusing if I switched. Could mostly understand stuff said in the (mini)bus except when the guy insisted on talking when we were rumbling over bad roads. I might have been OK in English under those conditions, but it would have been a push so I had no chance in Spanish then.

Battery at 23%. How exciting! Reminds me of being a bored 5ish year old and my Mum showing me the orange 'half full' light had come on on our new vacuum cleaner. The anticlimax was palpable.

1551 Just got a second beer.

1620 Nearly finished this. Batttery at 22%. Probably have one more then back home.

Did occur to me while re-reading Three Men on the Bummel that this trip meets the definition of a bummel; a trip, long or short, going where things take you, governed by nothing except the requirement to be back where you started at a fixed time.

More time would have been nice but three weeks doesn't seem too bad. As have doubtless said before, two weeks would just have been that bit too tight I think. As it is one more day would have been nice so I could have had a 'proper' Friday night and an albeit constrained Saturday night at the end, but still, not bad. While not exactly looking forward to being at work next week (especially the three support days, though I kind of got lucky there with a three day stint - I owe loads, but worry about that when it comes) at least it's only a week, then it will be sort of nice to be back up in Skegness for a week, especially compared to my recent flying visits on unpleasant business. Am sure (hahahahaha) will manage to squeeze in the aforementioned Spanish study between Christmas and New Year. If I can (as I hope) get dates for Feb trip confirmed next week I will also be able to muse over that. Advice from friends notwithstanding I am likely to come back to Latin America, though probably some previously unvisited part. Maybe Ecuador or Colombia, or central America. Doesn't have to be just one country but don't want to stretch myself too thin. At some point - possibly the next long trip - would be cool to fly into Panama and go overland into Mexico. I suspect that is doable, albeit at 'around the world in 80 days' kind of speed, in three weeks, but probably not the best use of the time. Some of my guide books do have various itineraries for the use of both year out and 2-3 week people and those might be worth a glance at least when deciding what to do.

As noted earlier, could have ended up going back to Santiago via Argentina except for bad luck with bus. But - and who knows what may happen in the next few days anyway - already turned out well in its way, as I wouldn't have gone paragliding in Iquique had that happened.

1630 Going to get one more. Am not sure these are 500ml and if they are three is fine. My tolerance and phone battery should see me through another then back to hostel for Yes Man and a recharge.

1708 Just got bill. 3x350ml for 4.5k! Call it 5k with tip. Duna tonight for sure. ;-)

2030 At Duna. Left hostel about 8. Fuck.

Put phone on charge in locker. 91% now.

Incidentally, my bag still on lower bunk *plus* eyecover. Some other bag on top bunk. Assume I still have lower and eyeshade is floating loose. As long as I have a bed, fuck it.

Got a litre of Becker. 1200 and left 150 on table as tip.

Sober but maybe not for long. Probably shouldn't write this but fuck, I feel shit.

Sat on lower terrace with Yes Man. Two SYTs and a member of hostel staff down there. Didn't join them as didn't know if they knew each other, plus I have an idea that hostel guy dislikes me, plus while chat would be welcome wasn't exactly seeking it out. Would have been so happy to have had place to myself.

Anyway, over the course of what, two hours, SYTs came, went and conglomerated around that table en masse. Boy did I feel like a sad fucker. I am jealous - how the fuck do they do it? - but also just felt so fucking stupid. I guess in hindsight I should maybe have gone and sat with those couple originally. But what if they told me to fuck off, or what if I was intruding? And I wasn't desperate for a chat. Then later on it felt like a (foolish?) consistency prevented me from doing that.

FFS, I'm not averse to a drink on my own (I was on water, FWIW). But sitting there in the hostel like that was like slow fucking torture. Was hoping to stick it out til 830 but couldn't hack it. Only delayed (probably fortunately) by difficulty of locating an open shop prior to coming here.

Sat here on my own but it's different. I've got a beer, the music is passable, I'm fucking *meant* to be on my own, I'm a lone tourist in a probably local bar.

Anyway, glad I got that out. If anyone's reading this, well, fuck what they think. Need to chill a little, with the aid of the sweet brown liquor. ("If you wanna get drunk, love, it isn't a crime.") Maybe serendipity will drop a conversation in my lap. If it doesn't, I don't care - I don't feel like such a fucking loser sat here.

Don't want to go back staggering drunk but beyond that fuck it. ("Easy (like Sunday morning)" playing. Not exactly rock but 'tis OK.)

Anyway, chill.

2057 Cooling down somewhat. Shall try not to harp on the theme but I guess it's having it rubbed in my face (not on purpose of course) that does it. (Nirvana playing. "I love you, I'm not gonna crack" or similar.) I like to think I'm pretty personable once I actually get to speak to someone - and FFS it's not like the conversation of the SYTs was Wildean - but I seem to have major fucking problems getting into a conversation in the first place.

2116 Radiohead's "Creep" playing. ;-) Richard Cheese version would be more amusing but still.

2129 Am sat inside - more cos music is different here than in courtyard than for any other reason tho may be a touch chilly - and people coming in from courtyard. Suspect will lose my table when go for a piss but we will see. Will leave half a beer on table on offchance it helps, and if it doesn't I will be that tiny bit less drunk. Or I will feel that tiny bit sober and order a whole extra litre on the strength of it and end up off my face. Life is all about random chance I guess. ;-)

Definitely piss time. "Everything I do" playing. A song the non-English speaker must find more pleasant for not appreciating the sappy, pathetic rhymes. Will never forget Bill Bailey's take on it.

2134 Slightly hasty piss but still got table. Door to courtyard (and bogs) just in front of me and guy at next table is frantic to keep them as such as possible. He is in a T-shirt (like most of SYTs, who appeared to find no minor breeze in courtyard; I put my fleecee on and felt very comfortable after a bit) and a lot of locals in long sleeves but still, I doubt the breeze can be that bad. It isn't cold by any means outside. If I do get forced out after next bottle no harm.

Just ordered another. Attracted waitress' attention at a distance and ordered via the international symbol of the gesture. She sort of rotated her hands, probably meaning another, and I raised my empty litre and smiled (or as much as I ever do ;-) )

If I can avoid getting too pissed too soon this could be a moderately entertaining night.

Battery still at 91% somehow.

2143 Two youngish women just blew bubblegum bubbles at table across the room. Oddly amusing. FWIW only about to start on second bottle, despite ordering it earlier. Unless strange feelings overtake me expect to manage three easily but obviously not rushing it, and wish to record how relatively restrained I am being. I don't want to be reeling drunk when I ring the hostel bell but I neither expect nor desire intercourse with the SYTs on my return. If I can get into my bed without embarassing myself I will be happy. Already waffled about the restraining quality of hostels in that way. Hotels suck a little but you at least feel the staff can keep their opinions to yourself, especially when the late night staff tend to be young and probably enjoy the odd session themselves. Apartments are perfect, because you have the key and at worst walk past the person at the desk (and ideally non-tourists actually live in the same building), and if I weren't already inured to that living at Metro Central Heights would have cured me. (Aparthotel in Calama was hotel-ish, in that you had to ring bell for admission. The apartment place I stayed at in Santiago two weeks ago was MCHish and I hope the different apartment place (better location, I think, not far from Bellas Artes) I booked for Wed onwards will be similar.)

It's odd that in such nominal haunts of youthful frivolity as hostels getting drunk feels worse. I guess in part it's because I'm on my own; returning with a drunk group would be OKish. The fact that hostel staff occupy this weird (sort of cool, insofar as I mingle, don't get me wrong) pseudo-guest, hang-around-with-the-guests quality also probably makes it more embarassing. Also the fact that it's external may be a factor, though in reality few hostels have a proper bar and I've never come close to getting drunk on the odd can I've been sold internally. The latter doubtless being due to my outsiderish nature, qv earlier, not to mention Andy the last time I was at Aji Verde.

2153 For tedious detail, only now am I about to take first drink from second litre (well, 970ml). No one's reading it but apart from being interesting to Future Steve, this rubbish also serves the purpose of occupying me semi-fruitfully instead of swigging.

2216 Not feeling at all drunk but seem to be taking it very easy over this bottle, which is all to the good. Just been for a bonus piss and table and bottle still here; I figure one of the ways to end up forcing myself to drink while feeling miserable is hanging on then necking it so I can go for a piss unencumbered by possession of beer. These are valuable lessons; I trust the solo drinkers of the world are hanging on my ever utterance.

Credit seems to be down to zero again; I admit I have done a few private e-mails and checked my mail a bit but boy does roaming suck. Only consolation is it would suck worse on my contract SIM. 'Tis is a shame the phone appears incapable of connecting to hostel wifi here; you might assume a mainstream Android phone would be more likely to work than my netbook running Linux. (Though, on the other hand, I guess full Linux is probably about as forgiving as it gets, for all the problems I have had over time.)

A tenner here or there is not the end of the world but it does grate. I may save this up and hope I can send it from free wifi in Valparaiso, but taking my lesson from the lost posts I should maybe top up on the bus and send it. At very least will save copy of text now so unless I lose my phone it won't be lost.

Music OK and atmosphere not bad but I need a tune that resonates with me at least a little.

2230 Actually this sucks a bit. As already noted music in courtyard is for some reason different to in here. Door to courtyard open and volume seems turned down in here so we get a horrible mixture of the two (music in courtyard is more metal and that's OK, but as an overlay to the quieter rock in here it absolutely sucks; it's audible milk and orange juice). If this continues may actually go sit in courtyard; I don't mind metal even if I prefer rock, and I'd rather have pure metal that than this foul mixture.

2241 Volume been cranked a little but still hard to hear music over chat in here and bass from metal in courtyard. Bit of a shame. Not sure what I will do. I'm unlikely to get the same 'yeah, I love this one' vibe from anything metal and it might be cool (temperature) outside but it's hardly great musically in here. Whinge whine. :-)

2246 "Carrie" by Europe now. Can't believe I am hearing a Europe song other than "Final Countdown". :-)

2250 Yay. "Jeremy"

2256 Is slightly middle aged bloke on his own at next table. Vaguely inclined to see if he fancies a chat. But it's noisy, my Spanish is poor and I'm shy. :-) Also if it goes bad don't really want to go home. Just might chance it a bit later on next beer.

2303 Figuring what the hell I just spoke to him. He's waiting for someone or someones I gather and didn't seem keen to chat. But I tried. Fucking Bryan Adams again now. Can hear this shit perfectly. Do wonder if he thought I was trying to pick him up but I doubt it.

Am toying with moving into courtyard anyway on offchance of meeting someone. Yet Bryan Adams notwithstanding I think music is better in here. Still, is an idea, and I do feel slightly awkward after trying to talk to that guy. Vamos a ver. :-) At least paying as I go, as seems custom here, I can move freely, though as previously blogged I am told and have seen even when you run a bill the staff work on faces not tables (which is a scary skill to me).

Hmm. It's lateish though am not pissed. Certainly one more. Not here for chat but music not going down great anyway due to aforementioned issues so maybe courtyard wouldn't be a bad gambit. I'm not a big metal fan but it's all good. Don't think they're open super late (memory of text over bar says 130) but could always move back inside after, subject to drunkenness. As noted need to be up by say 1030 (if I maybe skip a shower) and ideally earlier but it should be cool. Also, if (not that I plan or expect to) I miss the bus tomorrow it's not like missing the flight on Sat. Wish I could have got a later flight but I assume I was aware of that when I booked and there was no better later option.

If I go outside I guess I'll be getting a different experience, so it's like two nights for the price (time) of one.

If I do have the lower bunk I can also swig at water during the night, and pop off to the bog with minor disturbance.

I am thinking too much. Yeah, will finish this bottle then get next at table outside. Not giving much up even if it sucks.

Also, 1h 15 ish for this last litre (if my scan back over this entry is correct, and not finished it yet) is pretty temperate. Bloke I spoke to just slapped me on shoulder and said goodbye and left. Which is friendly but weird. Can't help wondering if he did think I was trying to pick him up. I mean, I'm a foreigner and should get some slack on my Spanish. On the other hand, for all the nominal friendliness here, maybe what I did was weird and he thinks I'm a gay foreigner. Shit, I don't know and I guess it doesn't matter.

Definitely sober enough that one slow litre more and subsequent late arrival at hostel doesn't bother me, especially if I do have that lower bunk. Based on last night people turn up to bed around 0030 after SYTery and I will be back not much after. Also the dormitoryness and breakfast make it very unlikely I won't be awake by 9 anyway.

Some half recognisably cool song now but aforementioned issues make it suck. Oh, it's "I'll fly tonight". But yeah, let's have a litre outside.

2321 OK, fuck knows. Outside and just ordered another litre and waiter hardly seemed to understand me, or rather he sort of did but said shit I didn't understand which seemed superfluous to my order. WTF, gave him the money and that's main thing. Probably my imagination but a decidedly nastier vibe. Maybe it's just the difference between waiters and waitresses. I am good for the tip though so hope he brings my fucking beer.

Youngish slightly geeky looking chap solo at next table but at this volume and in this slightly (though not much) fraught atmosphere not gonna push it. If he wants to talk to me he's welcome but otherwise, meh.

Fuck, I paid 2k and waiter has brought me some kind of fucking pitcher. Now assuming - which I think is fair - I owe jack shit on it, cool, but I am damn well not finishing it. At this rate maybe I will speak to guy at next table. Most worried I owe money but no, I paid up front and that's the way here so fuck it. The pitcher is fucking gigantic. Maybe modulo payment doubts this is fate encouraging me to make friend. But fuck it's intimidatingly huge. Best guess 2 litres. 2k seems too cheap.

OK, fuck it. I handed the guy money (if only 2k) so if I walk out and they accuse me a) it's not deliberate and b) I can pay. I asked for a fucking litre. So let's not worry about the money. And now - for better or worse - I have beer to maybe make 'friends' with. If I have or am going to pay for this might as well make most of it. Oh, and I will be here for a bit so if the guy wants money he should come talk to me. I still fear leaving now but make the best of it.

OK, I just collared the waiter and I don't have to pay any more. This is amazing value and an amazing millstone around my neck, but maybe I can make 'friends' out of it, ie at least get a bit of a chat.

Also assuming he wasn't setting me up, very honest of him not to sting me for a further payment. I have lashings in hidden belt but a solitary 1k note in wallet and maybe 1k/2k in change.

Why does this never happen in UK where I could appreciate it? I would also feel happier if the order had been totally comprehensible, but that is a blow to my pride and no worse.

Music is metaltastic out here. Given crap inside at this time of night I feel the bar is foolish to mix the two like this but so it is.

Everyone else seems to have lashings of litre bottles. I do wonder how I ended up with this. Surely my pronunciation of 'litro de cerveza' can't be that poor. One of life's little mysteries. Financially it's a quid difference and I don't understand why all the groups of friends here don't order this. Just fucking weird. If it was super pricey I could put the waiter's behaviour down to greed but even if I don't want this much it seems super value.

Fuck it, stop worrying I guess. Absolute worst case is I get stung for say 10k on departure, and that's not likely.

2344 Just been for a piss and no one nicked it. This has thrown me and no denying it. Am sure it's cool. The waiter said I owed no more, and for all that I don't understand how I ended up with the damn thing I shouldn't worry about it. Maybe 15 mins before I want to leave I can buy a bit of conversation (and incidentally maybe find out how it happened) by proferring the remainder to some locals.

Feel totally sober but then I've hardly touched it.

Hostel is like 5 mins walk away anyway.

2354 While totally unthreatening, no one here looks approachable. I feel this pitcher is a damn albatross around my neck. I guess if nothing else occurs, come 0030 ish I shall offer the thing to the nearest semi-approachable group without expecting even chat in return. The whole thing makes me doubt my Spanish skills more than I already did, yet I can't quite see how it happened anyway. Chillax Stevey boy. Another night I might drink it myself but having bus at 1130 I am not so sanguine.

0302 Well fuck you guys. I just got back from a few beers with some locals. That pitcher served me well. Anyway, to bed.

0312 In bed. Turned out nice again. :-) Lower bunk mine. Early start but worth it.

0328 Managed to get phone on charge while in bed. Early start so need to sleep but yay.