Buenos Aires-London

1145 In taxi. Fuck this keyboard. Shouldn't have stayed up so late especially as wasn't such a matey night as last night, though was still OK (unllike this fucking keyboard). Evidently I have 'gotten away with it'.. Must admit food would go down a treat but should have time and have ARS200+ (I raked out my emergency cash when got out of bed) to eat some overpriced crap once I got shaken down at airport.

1203 At airport. Think I burned some karma off this morning.... Let's hope I have some left for security.

1242 Fuck me. This is the shittiest airport in the world. ONE (count 'em) cafe/restaurant. Which charges FORTY FIVE FUCKING PESOS for a ham and cheese sandwich. Fuck fuck fuck. I expect to be ripped off but I expect some fucking choice. *This* is the 'international airport' of Buenos Aires?

Totally unfamiliar. Assumed I had flown from here before but maybe my flight to Panama in 2010 was from the 'local' airport.

Security v smooth, no stupid liquid shit. Not actually smooth as they had no trays so had to dig out a plastic bag to empty my pockets into. Also had to fill out exit card at passport check after which no one had given me, but no big deal.

Sat at table waiting for food. Fucking cocksucking shitcunt bastards.

1330 Still no gate showing for flight. Having third baguette and a half litre bottle of unicorn tears, sorry, water.

1334 Gate just popped up on display as was watching screen. Guess I have time to eat this baguette (still waiting for it) first. Can always take unicorn tears to drink at gate. Bit stuffed, third is a bit lardy but what the hell.

1358 Struggling to finish baguette and worried about not being at gate. Shoved it in my pocket and come over to gate. Priority boarding just starting.

0722 (London) On tube about to leave T5. Went through red customs just to double check alfajores OK. Officer v chatty and nice.

There was a second cafe type place at Ezeiza near my gate, which of course hadn't seen before.  No idea what sort of food it did or how it was priced.

Flight OK if a bit bumpy for first few hours (I had a cup of tea poured which almost immediately slopped entirely over the sides of the cup, fortunately collecting in the tray instead of on my trousers).

Buenos Aires, Friday

1642 Woke up 12-1 ish feeling really pretty OK. Perhaps stupidly stayed in room surfing til maybe 330. Should probably have seized the day but as noted before taking it easy. Printed boarding pass at net caf next to hostel and wandering.Having stupidly late lunch at Bidou Diagonal.  Plan is to smash the phone into a milion pieces for having a shit keyboard, eat, wander, go back to hostel to shower and repack about 6-7, then go to buffet at 8-830 and go out for a drink, possibly returning to hostel for one before bed.

1935 While I remember, I was at Trotamundos hostel in Mendoza and La Casona de Don Jaime 2 in Rosario. Here in Buenos Aires I am at Limehouse Youth Hostel.

Am back at hostel, have had a shower and going to re-pack. Not sure I want to eat again. Will probably head out about 9-930 and wander over to that street with the bars on.

2206 At Cafeteria Covadonga on Reconquista. It is actually fairly lively here tonight. Was tempted to just stay in hostel but sort of felt shoud make an effort to come out. Also would suck a bit if I ended up hanging around there on my own after last night and with this being the last night. Shall probably aim to get back about 12/1230 and have a beer at the bar there before I go to bed.

Short on cash, may need to withdraw some tomorrow. Still a bit uncertain about exactly how to get to airport, will consult guide now and maybe ask at hostel

0601 Fuck me. To bed.

1128 Fuck fuck me. Somehow totally missed alarms,woken up by knocks on door at 11. Waiting at hostel for cab now, should be cool. 165 but made it 200 with tip and tho probably not because of that hostel guy not said anything about latecheckout payment..

1132 In cab. Kbd still bites.

Rosario-Buenos Aires

0129 A few random observations:

Am reading Fitzroy's account of the Beagle etc expedition to South America. Fascinating and I encounter for the first time in literature the name of navigator Sarmiento, who seems to have a street named after him in every Argentinian city. I observed this before I found out who he was.

The Ford Sierra appears to linger on here; I have seen several in various cities. It may just be the unexpected familiarity which renders it conspicuous here, but I don't remember the last time I saw one in the UK.

I have what I assume is a mosquito bite on my ankle. I remember similar things before, most notably in Tlaquepaque in 2007. How the fuck does this happen? Of all parts of my body few are better protected; during the day it is covered by my socks (and trousers, pretty much) and at night by the bedsheets. Maybe it's not a mosquito bite but my general inference from previous experiences is that it probably is. It's almost certainly not a sore or blister.

1213 On 1205 bus to Retiro bus terminal (the phone keyboard is playing up; the space bar seems very unreliable, what a crock of shit). Perhaps stupidly took first bus offered which was all-cama, no matter. Fuck me this keyboard is annoying.

Got up about 1030 and just packed in time. Clothes still damp, sigh, they will have to moulder in my bag. Super-helpful woman at reception said I could have breakfast even though it nominally finishes at 11 but I declined. Bought bottle of water and some alfajores at terminal to bloat my bag and to take into work if they survive the trip home. Not been told arrival time for this bus but am assuming it'sabout 4hours. See how shitit iswhen I don't go out ofmywaytocompensate for the shittyspace bar.

Bus claims to have wifi but no sign of it. There is a network called 'Chupame la pija KRISTINA' though.

Enormously fat bloke sat to my left. Just an observation, not a problem as I have a single seat and he is across the aisle.

1836 At Clover Irish bar on Av de Mayo just round corner from hostel. Some sort of protest parade going by. Not clear what it's in aid of, if anything specific. I saw one pro-abortion thing and one guy with an anti-homophobia placard.

Got fucked over by taxi from bus terminal, ended up paying the guy 40after we basically did a circuit almostback there (fuck this keyboard) and got out and walked. Lovely and sweaty. Was a lot of traffic andwere a couple of closedstreets but he did seem to be blatantly not even heading towards where I wanted to go (I dug out Google Maps after a while).

Hostel right on Lima, can see obelisk from bedroom window. V noisy both due to being right on street and the central hostel bar. Bar does look OK though, may give it a try later.

Came out for food ,found that buffet on this street nr Saez Pena metro but not open yet. Sort of sat at table here wondering if will get served and maybe have drink while I see if buffet opens. If they givemea menu will consider eating here. To be honest I don't think I am going to get any service here anyway.

Got menu. Fuck it's expensive(tho if the bottles are litres they are standard price) but sod it, will have a michelada, was thinking about them the other day. Obviously an Irish bar in Argentina is the place to get one...

(Menu has 'Irish Car Bomb' on, which is Guinness, Jameson & Baileys.)

Not a great michelada, next to no 'sauce' in the glass. Oh well.

1906 Ordered a fernet cola, I want to try it. Shall then go eat somewhere, will go to the buffet if open, otherwise elsewhere. Then I think I might have a beer at the hostel bar and see if I can strike up a conversation, then perhaps a brief surf and relax in my room and wander out somewhere.

Check out is at 10 which seems a bit harsh, but it means I will have lashings of time to get to the airport - 4h40m til flight, so I shoudn't be too stressed getting a cab to the shuttle bus place and then the shuttle bus. Will go to an internet cafe to do online checkin and print boarding pass tomorrow afternoon (doesn't open til 24h before flight); I don't know if I need to do that but it won't hurt.

Fernet cola is very medicinal tasting but not bad at all.

When I got out of the cab I was swearing heavily to myself, especially on finding I was outside Kilkenny on that street with the bars whose name escapes me right now (Recova?) - Iknew that was 30 min walk from place I stayed three weeks ago walking even without a bag. My current hostel is on the same road, just two blocks further north (closer to 'centre').

Am aware from various ads and also radio in cab that today is Women's Day. Protest/parade may have been related but not totally clear.

1932 They just gave me a second big bowl of popcorn. This is perhaps a transparent attempt to get me to stay but I might have another fernet cola before going to eat. I don't want to get pissed, at least not this early, but I guess it will be fine.

1947 Got a second and bill; 76, made it 85. 38 for the michelada aka 330ml Corona was insane but I knew when I ordered, and very decently they seem to have given me the 2 for 38 happy hour deal on FC despite ordering them separately.

2011 At buffet. Had put phone between my legs on seat and nearly left it behind, FFS. Fortunately waitress pointed it out as was leaving. Note to self - DO NOT put it there any more, aways put it in pocket.

2107 Getting bill. As 3 weeks ago waiter pointed out desert is included and said I couldn't eat any more Not had much actually (one plate and a bit of rice after); felt a bit bloated before I even started,suspect I overdid popcorn at Clover. Not feeling too bad now and deliberately didn't force myself to eat more than I wanted.

0404 Well that was quite cool. Went to hostel bar and managed to get into conversation with a few people. To bed.

Rosario, Wednesday

1325 At La Chopperia de Pellegrini on Pelllegrine. Hope I have ordered grilled steak with chips but since the guy went off on something regarding the steak and when I said I didn't understand he merely repeated the word 'lomo', fuck knows. Wanted to get a large (1.25l) soft drink but they don't do that sugar-free, so getting the overpriced microscopic 350ml. Maybe I should have gone for the large full-fat soft drink but it seems a waste of calories, plus I don't want to feel like my teeth are dissolving all day.

Woke up about 10 and then again about 11 and finally got up about 12. Slept well and woke up feeling good about 10 but managed to dig myself into a minor hole by 11.

Had a look into trains to BA, nothing tomorrow. In hindsight I should maybe have left BA by train, but it obviously never occurred to me and I guess I was ill/pushed for time to decide. No big deal. Should I return I will bear it in mind. (I can see myself coming back to Argentina, whether I would go out of my way to spend time in BA is less clear. I suspect it would be natural to go there in practice, just as a matter of travel practicalities.)

It feels hot today and it's sunny, not grey like yesterday. Air conditioned in here at least.

1559 Fuck is it hot & humid. Was going to MACRO but had enough of the heat & humidity & these fucking migrating spider web Have stopped off for much needed beer at Quillagua on waterfront; there is shade and a breeze of the river. May or may not proceed to MACRO afterwards.

Went to Estacion Fluvial but no boats; I believe on checking guide book that is correct for non-weekend ,though the bloke at the ticket desk said - I could swear - there were none today due to snow.

Ice bucket and iced glass for beer. Perfect.

2118 At Pasaporte, corner Maipu/Urquiza. Getting a half pizza and a litre of Heineken. Probably give the music at the hostel a miss, unless it happens to be on when I get back at 1130-midnightish.

Booked hostel for BA Thu/Fri before coming out this evening, also washed some more clothes.

Reserved a seat on flight before leaving hostel this morning; I left it too late really and couldn't get emergency exit row or any of the particularly sweet ordinary seats. Did cough up £25 for an aisle seat right at the back which looks like it has a larger than usual area of open space next to it. T'will be fine, aisle seat is the main thing.

Went straight back to hostel after beer; I decided what I really wanted was a shower. Bit of a shame not to go to MACRO but I'm supposed to be enjoying myself so no point forcing myself against weather-induced inclinations. Something for next time...

Did notice on riverfront before going to bar this afternoon:
- two joggers trailing cobwebs
- two women picking cobwebs off each other
- three spiders scuttling about on the concrete surface, one of which was bordering on the 'oh fuck' size were I to discover it about my person.

Touch wood, I have only had one or two on me, and both were sufficiently small as to be relatively untroubling. I don't think the migrating fuckers are that big; it's not as if you see enormous buggers at the ends of the (sometimes amazingly long) migratory strands.

I got a spider and a fly in my beer afterwards this afternoon. Fished both out with tissues. I can't believe the guide book doesn't mention this.

Seems less of an issue tonight and I am sat under a canopy by way of extra protection.

This is a pleasant enough bar but the seats are terrible.

Doubtless due to the end of the trip approaching, I am not exactly looking forward to returning to BA tomorrow but I am sure it will all be fine. It's getting to the point where I almost wish I was sat on the plane though. Shall take it easy in BA; I may or may not do some touristy stuff but I'm not going to feel obliged.

Flight leaves 1440 which is not bad - I expect to check out as late as permitted and make it to the airport in plenty of time - but lands 0640, which will be 0340 by my body clock, so I am not optimistic about getting much sleep on the flight back. Also haven't checked if tube running OK on Sunday but I guess it can't be helped anyway. Can't say I exactly relish the prospect of returning to work but it's not forever; I have some vague plans for the future, and it will in a way be pleasant to spend the spring and summer in London. It will doubtless suck during the Olympics but it might be interesting to see how the atmosphere changes, and with some judicious walking home in the evenings instead of using public transport I hope it won't be too painful.

0113 Back at hostel. Left half of third litre - would have got a smaller third one but it was a litre or 330ml. No problem. Quite a nice relaxed evening. Bar by no means deserted but not super lively when I left, and nowhere I passed on the walk back showed much sign of activity.

Rosario, Tuesday

0757 Got in at 0700, got taxi to Plaza Sarmiento, walked to hostel where I used the bog and dumped bag off til can check in at 12. A bit knackered. Eyes wanted to close in taxi. Damp and grey (but not cold) here, which I guess makes a change. Didn't sleep brilliantly but I guess not too badly.

0848 At Pico Fino in the pedestrianised bit, having coffee and croissants. Shall see if I can get an orange juice to finish up and then will wander over and take a look at the Parana...

1200 At Newport Cafe getting a pizza and beer, will go check in after this. Walked for more than 2 hours already. Did go up to Parana but there is apparently only a tiny bit of the bank not occupied by warehouses or fenced off apparently out of sheer spite, and that bit was heavily occupied by local fishermen and a 'no fishing' notice so I didn't like to loiter. Walked right round following the river maybe 10-20m away from it along the 'ring road'. Streets oddly muddy out that way; they are paved, but loads of mud appears to have magically gravitated up through the pavement. Lots of standing water too, it must have pissed down last night or something. (There was a lightning storm visible from the bus about midnight or so, but that was miles from here of course.)

Suspect the pizza will be too large (this place is a bit pricey anyway; 50 for pizza and the usual 24 for beer) but I shall do my best with and it leave the rest. I am pretty hungry right now anyway and I won't need to eat this evening (probably).

Very grey here though temperature is really quite pleasant by my standards.

1242 Ate 3/4 of the pizza as seems to be my standard. Street vendor/beggar kid came and asked if he could have the rest and of course I said yes, so at least it's not wasted.

1312 Just got bill. 74, made it 85. Shall finish beer and go check in.

Oh, this place is corner of Maipu and Cordoba.

1908 Back at hostel. Pedometer showing over three hours' walking, this must be some sort of record for the holiday.

Due to the inevitable mix up, my private room was not available. They offered me the option of one night in a dormitory before getting it, in return for which they would give me 'some beers' (not clear if price would be reduced too) or of a private ensuite in their second property at no extra charge. I dithered but figuring it would be hard to claim those beers, and not wanting to tie myself in to hanging around the hostel, in the end went for the second property. As I write this there is evidently some group of people on some lower terrace but they are all speaking Spanish so I have no intention of trying to scrape acquaintance with anyone. (Is it just my imagination or were hostels in Chile basically full of English-speaking tourists? It's not like I'm booking through a different web site or anything this time. It's tempting to speculate different countries attract different nationalities of tourists. It's also possible there's a time element here; it is (admittedly very) late southern hemisphere summer so perhaps at this time all over South America 'local' tourists dominate.)

A guy just came to check on the a/c unit which he said had not been working. It wasn't because I fiddled with the control and I know it didn't work, but it worked for him. He said you have to pay for it if you want it but I didn't have to pay as I hadn't asked. I have no idea, I shall just leave the thing alone.

Anyways, room is fine (massively high ceiling) tho wifi a bit ropy here in the room. Am charging netbook up now and may wander into a public area to see if I can get a better signal and upload some more photos while I am kind of killing time before I can go out this evening. (I figure I don't want to be leaving here til 9 and probably 9:30 would be better.)

Staff super-helpful at both properties. Apparently there is some sort of music here at 2230 tomorrow downstairs, dunno if I shall attend.

Had shower after checking in and went back out about 3. As recommended by hostel reception woman (the map she gaved me looked like a spot the ball competition by time she'd finished) went over to the flag monument and paid ARS3 to go up the tower. Views quite cool. Lift operated by enormously fat guy who evidently sits in there all day driving the lift (press button once at bottom to signal, twice at top!) and checking tickets.

Then got much needed bottle of soft drink and wandered over to Che Guevara's first home, which is spectacularly unimpressive (you can't go in, it's a private flat, there's just a sign outside) but at least I can tick it off my metaphorical list. Then wandered along the river bank, which is more open as you get round to the west a little. There was a little colony of cats with a sign saying the neigbours looked after them. Also found bar/restaurant 'Jardin' recommended by hostel desk woman where I shall go for a drink later. (There are a few bars on the river bank.)

There is a monument to the Falklands which I saw this morning on my semi-abortive wander up to the Parana; it was only on seeing it from the top of the tower I realised the flat circular water feature has a map of the islands in.

2134 At Flora (?) - next door to Jardin if not it. Getting litre of Quilmes Negra - they only do 3/4 of regular or Stella Artois in litre. Waiter asked where I was from and I told him, he then spoke to me a bit in English, no problem.

"Words to describe this girl" song playing, sigh.

Noticed earlier lots of presumably migratory spider web things in the air. Skin keeps crawling. ;-) Fortunately am assuming the associated spiders are not too big as I have not seen one attached to the gossamer. Also hope my non-tropical-strength insect repellent is enough to protect me from dengue fever. With the two I am continually imagining contact with my skin. Really it's OK but that is kind of true.

Noticed on my walk down riverside earlier a quite cool mural re the Falklands (though I didn't twig that was the subject immediately) which I photographed. Turned out it was on the side of the veterans association building. Some sort of youth disco was going on inside and there were some kids on bikes and I did feel just slightly nervous of being discovered as a Brit as I walked past. Only a little bit though.

Quilmes Negra is not bad, though the aftertaste is a little sweet for my tastes.

Remix of 'Englishman in New York' on. Was going to observe anyway, that's just a coincidence, that I always say I'm from London if people ask (and if I have to write in a hostel register, I write my parents' address). The astronomy tour chap in San Pedro de Atacama made some observation about this, in the context of US tourists, that there are just a few US cities which the inhabitants say they are from instead of giving the state. I guess I'm doing the same here. If I lived in Peterborough I'd probably say I was from England or the UK (probably England, as it trips off my tongue easier in Spanish). (Besides, I could be from London, Ontario if I say London. Joke. Though I wonder if that is also 'Londres' in Spanish. Probably but dunno...)

Sole young woman jogged along riverbank a bit ago. While she may be a karate champion, that has to be at least suggestive of the safety of the place.

There is nothing to see on the river although the bridge in the distance is illuminated. Still, it's somewhere to be and I was not aware of anywhere more tempting, and it is oddly cool.

I just saw what I assume to be a cockroach wandering around. As long as that's *all* it was. Have lifted my fleece fully into my lap instead of letting it dangle down my leg onto the floor.

Quite a lot of people here. Oddly given the amount of light, stars are visible and I can clearly see Orion. I coudn't see Sirius until I remembered everything is upside down here...

2250 Got second litre. Music lately is all pseudo-jazz lounge covers of popular songs. "Poker Face" now and I am smirking at the memory of Adam Kay's take on the song.

The other day I was mentally totting up my bus trips. Based on hours travelling I estimated 5000km including the trip from here to BA. I suspect that's on the high side, but would be slightly interesting to find the actual distances and see how they compare with the estimate.

Music is repeating already. Come on, this can't even be a full CD worth. Maybe it is, still a poor effort.

0022 Back at hostel, which seems quiet (semi-alas). Was vaguely tempted to another at that bar - whose name is not shown on the receipt either - but they were clearly moving towards a close. Was oddly cool sitting by the river, so chalk me up as a sucker for both heights and water.

Need to sort out my seat for the return flight tomorrow, also look into the possibility of returning to BA by train. Vaguely tempted to stick on here another day, but probably won't. I clearly don't 'get' BA, it always seems dull to me (yet with the tantalising prospect of nightlife somewhere I am not). On the other hand while Rosario seems oddly cool, and I can see the wisdom in the guide book saying it's a good place to study Spanish, if I make a trip to the islands tomorrow I think I will have had my fill and seen most of the nominally cool stuff. It strikes me as the sort of place that's cool for a couple of nights and satisfying for a long stay but not suited for the mid-range. I might have a good time at a hostel in BA and if not at least I'll have one proper night's sleep there, if tomorrow is my last night here.

Mendoza, Monday

1121 At Al Limite having an impromptu breakfast (coffee, croissants, orange juice). Got up about 1005 and just checked out in time, hostel is looking after my bag.

Am walking over to bus terminal to buy ticket but stupidly went west not east down Aristides/Colon. Only realised at far end of street, so now stopped here having returned more or less to my starting point before striking out east. As a minor consolation did encounter a tram, presumably a test, beeping to attract attention as it ran down Belgrano.

1230 At Old Bull Tavern for lunch. Got to bus terminal - it is slightly awkwardly pedestrian accessible, if you go the right way, though shall get taxi with bag later - and paid 380 for cama (got a seat on the single side of the aisle, right at the back) to Rosario tonight at 1930, arriving 0700. Went with first company I found this time instead of getting a second price, but sod it, in the past it's usually been more about times than price.

Oh, half litre of Quilmes is indeed 20 on menu, and it's only 28 for a litre. Having diet coke with food but may have a tea and/or a beer after; beyond possibly meandering up to the disused railway station to take a look, I have no pressing plans for this afternoon.

1436 At Don Otto Snack Bar on Las Heras, hoping to get a drink. Did wander up to disused station; oddly creepy. The station building is rather decayed and nothing stops you wandering in; I did go onto the platform but didn't like to wander down it as I was worried about being mugged (despite it being broad daylight) and/or accosted for trespassing.

Got a litre and it is a draught litre, which is a little ridiculously large. WTF. Wasn't going to order a half litre as quite apart from the fact that it don't satisfy ;-), I feared it would be disproportionately expensive.

1709 Had 1.5 litres there, wandered at now at La Mira round corner from hostel - apart from the obvious convenience for bag collection, seemed fitting to close my time here where I came first day. Coffee here.

One of the new trams parked up in Belgrano and one of the local buses made up to look like an old-fashioned tram just stopped too.... (AFAICT those buses are in regular service and not a tourist thing.)

Rod Stewart's greatest hits playing...

1839 At terminal. Bit of a struggle to get taxi in street but OK. As I was getting out and had shut door, driver called me back - the two combination locks on my bag had evidently not been locked and had fallen onto seat. Could swear I had locked them before putting bag in storage, however a cursory check suggests laptop still in bag so I have to assume this doesn't signify interference in storage, just an amazing oversight on my part. I could have sworn I was pretty careful about that sort of thing these days. Oh well.

1850 Fuck me, that has disconcerted me. Guess it worked out OK though. Tempted to get a coffee or something at one of the cafe type places near the terminal but with 40 mins to go before bus it would be a bit rushed and it's not like I desperately want either a beer or a coffee having indulged in both this afternoon. Shall quite possibly be having a coffee in Rosario tomorrow morning anyway, given 7am arrival.

1906 A bloke at a table here is drinking a mix of Coca Cola and Andes (beer); I just watched him top up his glass. I shall have to try that back home. No idea if it's a local thing or just him.

1915 On bus. Entire bus appears to be cama, which seems a little unusual but may not be. I am at far rear of top deck (so I might infer there are 36 seats on the entire bus, my seat being 36). All OK but seriously off balance, can only attribute it to that lock thing which is affecting me way too much. Guess I just need to chill. May bag is checked in, I stupidly tipped the guy who took it and now have no small notes (and like maybe a single 0.50 coin if I'm lucky) to tip the guy at the other end. Still, bag is checked in, I obviously have my phone, I have my wallet and camera, my passport has been in my hidden belt all day and I have my daypack with me containing water and indeed my netbook. So it's cool, except for inability to tip baggage guy at far end. Just need to relax.

I was rushing a little as I checked out so it's not totally impossible I forgot to lock it but it does seem a bit unlike me. Since nothing obviously valuable has been nicked and they didn't know my next destination so I can't be used as a reliable drug mule :-) I guess it must just have been an accident.

Battery at 22% but I have the spare so will be fine.

Was told when bought ticket ultimate destination is Parana. Have set an alarm on phone for 630 to reduce risk of sleeping past Rosario.

1934 Leaving. Bus virtually empty which doesn't fit with the free seats shown when I bought ticket. Have to assume there is some intermediate stop or stops where a lot of people will be getting on. Sod it.

1949 Steward chap just asked if I want to move forward so I can see the TV better. Fuck knows what happened to all those passengers who bought the other seats. I didn't move, I like my single seat and have no the least interest in sitting nearer the TV, which I can see perfectly well anyway in the unlikely event the film is of any interest.

Mendoza, Sunday

1833 At Bute, one of the few places open at this time, having rather expensive milanesa a caballo with 2/3 litre Heineken. (Ha! 650ml when it turns up. FFS.)

Woke up about midday but lingered in bed til 2ish and left about 3. Bit of a waste but I hadn't had an 'unlimited' sleep for a while and may not get one for a couple of days. (Saturday morning I had to change rooms which was a bit disruptive in terms of sleeping late.)

Walked over - about 4km, FFS - to Parque San Martin and up Cerro de la Gloria. Quite cool views etc up there and monument not bad (though trees block views in many directions) but boy was it a long way. Walked back and now here. Need to decide what I'm doing tomorrow. I guess I either split my remaining time to make a longer stay here and/or in BA or put in a couple of nights at some place X to be determined vaguely halfway between here and BA.

Quite nice view of Plaza Independencia from here. Plaza is green but not surrounded by bars and restaurants like eg Salta.

Couldn't finish the meal, not ill, just feel stuffed. Frankly looking forward to getting back to hostel and having a shower.

2128 At ZinC/2inC/? on Aristides Villanueva. Just ordered a litre of Schnieder Negra. Waitress told me to speak English. Didn't help because it's the name of the beer that is the pronunciation problem. She just offered me the wifi code seeing me fiddling with my phone. We seem to have reverted to Spanish and I haven't got a fucking clue what it is. I think the bar may be ZiC if I can infer from my memory of the password. Minor shame but I have no need for it.

OK, that's unfair to me. I know maybe 60% of the characters in the password.

They have Red Bull and gin on the menu here, not Red Bull & vodka. They also do piscola, which I may just have later. I still haven't touched a drop of fernet either, I do somehow need to try that before I leave.

Was a bit dubious about this beer, especially seeing it says 'stout' on the bottle (and it is very dark) but it's actually going down a treat. The Heineken earlier didn't really hit the spot, so although there's always an element of mood, it's not just that the local lager has been disagreeing with me.

Apropos of nothing, there are two railway tracks running down Belgrano which I have to cross to get here. The station is mark disused in my guide book but they do have overhead electrical cables so I have always had a bit of a glance before crossing. I infer from a sign nearby they may be being repurposed as part of a local (12.5km) metro system. I don't think they are used right now though as some roadworks I saw the other day appear to have left the rails in an unusable state at that point.

Had a bit of a gander at guidebook; because it's split up into separate PDFs I had to find a whole country map on Google and had to fart around with netbook to find which sections certain towns were in. Anyway, think I shall go to Rosario tomorrow and shall muse on it here and book hostel when I get back tonight. It's 10-12h (from memory) from here so an overnight tomorrow, I will stay there Tue & Wed nights and it's 4h from BA so I will get a day bus on Thu and spend Thu/Fri nights in BA before flying back. I could put in an extra night in Rosario but I am reluctant to have just one night anywhere, as noted before.

Go me. Just connected to wifi here. The network is called ZINC so I infer that's the name of the bar despite the illegible sign. Obvious in hindsight I guess.

I have no need for it but WTF.

Oh, I could (judging from a hand-written poster; I never asked) have arranged paragliding via the hostel (it was down as a 9am-3pm activity) but I didn't. Sod it. I am highly likely to return here in the future (it's quite a nice place and anyway I should like to try the bus crossing of the Andes), especially as it's near Santiago, and even ignoring that, I wasn't so keen to do it that I fancied burdening myself with a 9am start. If I had a little more time and could easily have stretched my stay here by a day or two without compromising elsewhere I probably would have done it, but I did it a week-ish ago and I'm not *that* interested in doing it again right now. It will give me yet another reason to return.

Cool, just eyeballed the small print (it is IME very hidden information on beer bottles over here) and Schneider Negra is only 3.9%. It is slipping down far too well and was a bit worried about a second litre given I need to book hostel and pack tonight/tomorrow morning before check out at 1030, but that reassures me.

It was showing 30C on my phone for Mendoza when I got up, and it was damn hot on the walk to Parque San Martin. Generally it's pleasantly warm verging on hot here and the nights are very pleasant, although if anything slightly too warm for my tastes.

Feeling quite relaxed, it is a shame I have to be up early-ish tomorrow but no matter. I do think moving on to Rosario is the right thing though, apart from seeing somewhere new it is nicely close to BA for a stress-free return in order to catch the flight - if necessary or desirable I can push my stay there and not have an enormous last leg ahead of me.

2306 Fearing to commit to another litre, have ordered a 'pinta' of Dowel Pale Ale, a 'cerveza artesanal mendocina'. I did see the taps, which are in the window open to the street, on my first pass down here Friday night, at which point I misread it as Duvel.

The head has subsided now (I haven't touched it) and the glass is only full to about an inch below the top.

Bar next door (Antares)'s blackboard advertises 'The Bootles, Pop Britanico'...

It's not a bad drop, actually. Mind you, it ought to be at ARS25 a 'pint' (or 2 chop (their spelling) for ARS28).

Oh, did note in guide book while struggling to find stuff earlier that tipping is apparently at the 10% level here. Not sure how current that is but I have probably been overdoing it. I shall maybe moderate down to 10% verging on 15% with rounding and see how it goes. It feels petty somehow but really it does add up I guess.

Undeniably an electronic guide book is less 'flick-through-able'. I only looked at the directory section at the end in the hope of finding a map. It's also rather inconvenient in some ways having it split into about 12 PDFs (presumably done in part as you can buy individual sections, though buying the whole guide as I did gives you about a 50% reduction compared to buying all the sections individually). I should probably prepare a concatenated version when I'm back home and shove it on the phone/netbook so it's handy next time I need it. It may be years but if I don't I will forget.

2343 May have one more, feel fine and it's hardly late when getting up at 930 would be more than adequate. This bar is at one end of the street so no idea if it's heaving down where I was the last two nights or not. Quite a lot of people out here and at bar next door anyway, it's obviously not 'late' by local standards even for a Sunday.

FWIW, I did a bit more laundry before I came out; given the excellent results I got yesterday in terms of drying (I think the ceiling fan helps enormously, and I left it on last night and tonight when I came out) I am moderately optimistic it will be dry by tomorrow morning. I am now almost provisioned with clean clothes for the remainder of the trip; I think at worst if I didn't wash anything else (underwear can easily be done discreetly even with a shared bathroom) I'd only have to wear a single top for two days.

2352 Yeah, just ordered one more. Can't remember how long I tended to stay in one place on the long trip in 2010, I guess I played it by ear a bit, but I am thinking four nights is generally better than three, though three is not a bad compromise in general. Don't regret only being in eg La Cumbre for two nights, clearly there is an element of variability.

Not such a head on this pint, which given its lager-like instability, is all to the good in terms of value for money.

Not eating tonight; after only eating about half of that milanesa a caballo earlier seemed silly. (The fried eggs weren't burnt though, which was good, and the fried onions were actually pleasant, which is not always the case.) In passing, veal seems very common here (the default milanesa is veal); I may or may not have observed this outside Argentina on previous trips. I am no gourmet but can't say I'm overly impressed with any distinctive flavour from the veal. It's perfectly palatable but I would have half expected a taste explosion. I have some vague idea it's even more unethical than the average meat but I guess I'm not that bothered on a 'when in Rome' basis. If it is particularly cruel I can't see it being worth it, all other things (eg availability of alternatives) being equal.

0014 I appear to be only customer at this bar though next door's tables are busy. No one seems to care, if they want to come and present me with the bill they are welcome. I suspect if anyone were to come and sit down they'd be happy to serve them, and that may well happen. They aren't giving any evidence of closing. It will probably be heaving here at 3am. ;-)

Have taken advantage of the wifi to precache map of Rosario while I remember. Not essential, especially given the (non-GPS, of course) map in the electronic guide book, but worth having.

Not exactly inclined to make a night of it, even without checking out tomorrow, but if I wasn't under that pressure I might stay out a bit. Not really fighting off temptation though. There was a group at a table behind me who just left and the music inside is still playing, I suspect they would be open regardless.

0032 Just asked for bill.

79, made it 90. Waitress didn't seem too gutted if not ecstatic.

Am virtually certain they aren't closing, as if it matters.

0051 Back. Did note while waiting (briefly) to be let in that a 4-bed dorn has its window next to the entrance, and only one bed was occupied by a sleeping body. Hostel not overrun but this is further evidence I guess that it's not really that late. (Did note about three or four people come in around 2am Fri night when I was briefly dissipating on the terrace after my return; the guy on night duty was out there and had to go let them in.)

Clothes virtually dry already, shall leave them hanging overnight anyway (it's an excuse not to pack tonight...)

Oh, now it's too late to be insecure, shall say I am at Trotamundos hostel, corner Peru and Espejo (the latter apparently being a name, not an object, though on arrival it inevitably brought 'Si no te hubieras ido' into my mind).

0108 Hostel in Rosario booked for Tue/Wed night. I do wonder, as always, why my hostelworld login can remember all my details except my nationality and gender.

Mendoza, Saturday

1121 At Giovanni's on Sarmiento. Was starving and noticed menu of the day is an empanada followed by bife de lomo a lo pobre. Sign me up baby.

There is evidently some kind of massive parade or something (though it doesn't move much) as Sarmiento is blocked. I can see it from my table outside though am not massively interested. I don't think it's a protest, all far too good nature.

Woke up about 10 and drowsed til 1040. Have changed room, new one is nicer though the bathroom is in a little separate courtyard. Not washed clothes yet, wanted food!

1205 Not the best lomo a lo pobre to be honest but still. Dessert included and was going to get a coffee to finish up but they apparently don't have it (!) so getting bill. Shall wander and/or look at guide book and see what attractions are this side of Sarmiento...

Fuckers. Asked for a second soft drink and never got it, but they've charged me for it. Can't be arsed to argue, bill is 80 and should be 70 so have just paid 85 for a 20%-ish tip on the right amount.

1752 At Old Bull Tavern on Zapata, having a beer. Walked quite a lot. Parched despite having drunk 2l of soft drinks while out.

Went to Museo Fundacional to NW of centre. Reencountered parade (which guide books say - from memory - is annual wine festival, I guess I got lucky being here during it) in San Martin on way over and watched a bit. Went to aquarium en route as recommended by guide book, then walked up past MF by mistake, doubling back and finding it eventually. Thanks to using up my nice accumulation of small bills on the restaurant at lunch and the remainder on aquarium entry and the soft drinks, has 2x2 peso notes and a couple of 100 notes by time I got to MF. They had no change but were nice enough to let me in for free (it should have been 9 pesos).

They do hallf litre bottles of Quilmes here (oh, I saw a turn-of-20th-century Quilmes bottle at MF, which was oddly cool) which is handy. Plan is to try to relax over this then go back to hostel for shower, laundry and a bit of sod all. Will probably aim to go out at 10ish tonight and see how it goes; I will probably postpone eating until then too, though I guess having eaten once today I could probably get away without eating again if I wanted.

Bizarre. A group of about 10 Andesmar coaches all just went past together, one after the other.

Fuck me. 20 for a half litre. The place is not remotely swanky either. Got exact change for a 100 and left four on the table, that may be insulting but fuck it, so was the price. I expect to pay 20-25 (before tip) for a litre.

2231 Fuck. At exxtreme bar again. Did length of street again and nowhere particularly appealed. Did go to basilko or wtf immediately next door where got given a menu then studiously ignored when wanted to order (I drew the line at waving my fucking arms around), so hopped over here. Getting a pepperoni pizza 'plato cubierto' or something, whatever the fuck that means, waiter made sort of knife and fork gestures when I said I didn't know what that meant (it was a question) so I pretended that helped and said yes. Developed a headache approximately the instant I sat down at bar next door.

Getting the large pizza which is probably too much but fuck it. I will eat what I want and nibble at the rest. Hmm, maybe should have got the small. Fuck it.

Totally off balance. Waiter just delivered beer and plate and asked if I'm here on my own. I infer this is basically in case I want additional plates for the pizza but I am reading a certain 'you fat sad bastard' into it. Fuck it.

0134 Can't help but feel that pizza was a mistake. Only ate 3/4 of it but feeling a bit heavy.

0302 Getting bill. No point pushing it, the magic isn't happening tonight. Blame it on the pizza. ;-)

Mendoza, Friday

1616 Wifi magically started working while lying on bed waiting for phone to charge and deciding if I felt ill or not. Have just come out for food, shall risk bife de lomo a punto (waiter's suggestion to have it a punto) with fries. I think I am more hungry than anything, except for nibbling at the two meals served on the bus I have not eaten since about 2pm yesterday.

First impressions of Mendoza reasonably good. They obviously get a lot of rain here at times as many streets have open drains a foot or two deep.

At Santi Coffee Resto Bar, just off Espejo.

1650 Portion rather small viewed in general terms, but probably for the best under the circumstances. Steak pretty good and tender all the same. Actually feel pretty OK, shall linger here for a coffee before going for a bit of a wander if I still feel OK.

This is a really strong coffee.

2201 At, actually fuck knows, maybe extreme bar - no decent sign - on Aristides Villanueva, which (my words) is apparently the local equivalent of Santiago's Pio Nono. Not quite that heaving. Walked virtually whole length on both sides trying to find somewhere liked the look of, this was more of a "fuck it, this'll do" than a "yeah, this is the place for me". Feeling massively overdressed as due to not getting private bathroom today couldn't do any washing tonight and hence, saving my one clean T-shirt for the day tomorrow, am wearing my somewhat smart long-sleeved blue shirt (and as far as temperature goes it's fine, though I'd still prefer to be wearing short sleeves and then I could wear the fleece) and - probably all in my head - it feels like I'm dressed up. Sod it. A little of the sweet brown liquor should alleviate these concerns. Plan is just to have a few drinks, take it easy and maybe go home about midnight-1.

As mentioned in one of the comments on hostelworld, the twin room (bunkbeds) no bathroom I am in tonight is actually a quad with a partition wall which doesn't reach to the ceiling (the ceiling fan is common to both). It's not that bad but FFS. Think I already mentioned the one socket in the room is used for the light. Left camera battery on charge while out, it showed signs of near death on Cerro San Bernardo other day. Can't complain as it lasted an entire 2GB memory card's worth of photos and video, this charge should easily see out the trip.

While it's hardly deserted I am clearly out 'too early'. However, given my recent health I am not trying for a 'proper' night out. If I feel OK after tonight maybe I will come out at 11 tomorrow night and plan on sticking around til 2 or so.

2307 Seems to be a bit of a surge of clientele. I am not feeling exactly chipper, though not really physically ill beyond a slight headache. I am regarding tonight more as a trust-building exercise with my own body than anything else.

2355 I do beg the bar's pardon. On eyeing up the frontage better I see that mixed with extreme sport ads for 'Dr Lemon' it is in fact called exxtreme bar. So even more xtreme than I originally gave it credit for.

Nearly finished this litre of Andes, which frankly isn't going down well. Not feeling much better but not feeling worse. Shall get a litre of Quilmes and see how that goes. Still feel frankly conspicuous but I'm sure it's all in my head.

0008 Finally got attention of waiter for a Quilmes. Fuck me, I hate trying to attract their attention. I either get ignored or feel like an arrogant boor.

So cold it's got ice forming in it, but that tastes better. Won't say Andes sucks after a single bottle when I'm frankly in an odd mood but it wasn't to my taste tonight.

0033 Just been for piss. Inside of bar is absolutely deserted. The toilet is quite literally a bathroom. No seat on the bog but a bog all the same, no urinal, a sink and a bath.

Just noticed there is a blackboard advertising cocktails, and it has both 'Tequila Sunrise' and 'Sex on the beach', in English. Do these things not translate? By naff cocktails is the English language spread... All very exxxxtreeme, perhaps. ;-) Someone should invent a line of existentialist cocktails whose names conjugate the verb 'to be'. We've tried spreading the language by conquest and commercial power, alcohol could be the next big contributor.

0052 Just paid (48, made it 60). I feel 90% sound and not drunk and may or may not finish this litre (which is only half done) but I'm not having the greatest time and since I don't trust my body am definitely not pushing it tonight.

0117 Back at hostel. Feel fine. Bit of a disappointing night but at least - touch wood - I'm on the mend. Better to walk hesitantly than run and come a painful cropper after Monday night.

Loads of people out as I left, as I had expected, but that wasn't the point personally.

Salta-Mendoza

Thursday 1324 They say travel broadens your horizons and boy is it true. I just saw an ice cream kiosk advertising a choc ice *shaped like a ring doughnut*. I genuinely thought "what a novel idea!" I suspect it's grossly impractical but still. (It was Simpsons-branded, so bit surprised I haven't seen it before, but maybe it was a knock off or whatever.)

At Mistela, getting small pizza. Managed to get last cama seat (8 again, though this time seat to left is occupied) on 1530 bus to Mendoza for ARS530. Onlly just had enough cash. Earlier companies I asked had no bus or charged ARS400-something for semi-cama leaving 9pm, so I snapped their hand off for this one. Guide book gives sample price of ARS230. Need to be there by 1510.

Felt OK last night but couldn't get to sleep til about 330. Felt OK when woke up, got up about 1020 and was checked out by 11. Hostel looking after bag (said I could leave it in same room I'd been staying in) so went to bus terminal, got ticket then got cable car up to Cerro San Bernardo for 45-60 mins before coming down here. Feeling a little pressed for time but it's cool; hostel is maybe 2 mins from here tops, and the unencumbered walk to the bus terminal is about 15 mins, so even with the bag you're probably looking at no worse than 30. So I have on that basis 60-70 mins to eat here.

1514 Just got on bus. It's perhaps foolish to be on any earlier than necessary given we are not due to arrive til 1010 approx tomorrow (so I make that 18h 40m) but what's fifteen minutes? At least this way I stake out my claim to my official seat. Tipping seemed to be taking place on handing bags in today, oh well, I gave the guy an ARS2 note.

Woman ahead of me in queue had half full bottle of Stolichnaya in the pouch of her backpack.

Food went down better than last couple of days though did feel a bit sick after eating. I did at least finish the (personal size) pizza though. Covered in greenery, rather odd but did taste OK.

Bag weighed a ton walking over as I have accumulated two big bottles of water and the remains of some pomelo drink during my time at the hostel here. Not a big deal and at least I am well equipped for this bus. Kind of hoping to get a coffee feeling healthy in Mendoza Friday morning.

1635 We just stopped for ages at what seemed to be an Andesmar (bus co) office in middle of nowhere where lot of people got on. As we pulled out at last something ,presumably a stone, has shattered the toughened glass on the window of the single seat to the right of the aisle next to me. It doesn't look like this is going to hold us up, I hope not. The wait at their office must have been 20 mins as it was.

1657 Fuck knows. Still here. Thought I heard something said about changing to another bus but as far as I can judge they are fuelling this one up. Way to increase the journey time, guys.

1709 Still here...

1716 Wow, we actually appear to be leaving.

1719 Ho ho ho. Of course we weren't. The bus just shuffled to a slightly different part of this concourse.

1755 Still here. A sign on wall

1802 OK, we have changed bus. Asked if they'd moved all the bags over (I didn't have to pick it up and check it back in) and guy even opened compartment on old bus to show me it was empty. Sign might have said Zona Uca de something but can't remember. No matter, just thought it might be a clue to where we are. Seatbelts on new bus but otherwise identical. I half hope we speed recklessly to make up for lost time...

GPS says this is where we changed buses the second time on the way into Salta, a few miles south of General Guermes and maybe 20 miles east of Salta. This is impressive progress given we only left Salta two and a half hours ago.

WOULD IT BE SO FUCKING LETHAL TO TRAVEL WITH A SIDE PANE OF SAFETY GLASS CRACKED? DID WE REALLY HAVE TO SPEND AN HOUR AND A HALF, BY THE CLOCK, FUCKING AROUND HERE OVER IT?

There aren't any seatbelts after all; I must have hallucinated. Not too bothered. At speeds of under ten miles an hour on average, even a head-on collision is likely to be harmless..

1810 We finally appear to be leaving, touch wood, etc. I shall have to revisit this little spot in the future, it has so many memories attached to it.

1831 Bizarre. They gave us a little 4x4 grid of numbers and we just played bingo. I wouldn't have had the balls (no pun intended) to claim anyway so perhaps fortunately I only got one number.

Oh, there is a seatbelt, I sat on it. Am wearing it on the offchance it helps, though it's nice not to be compelled to. Bored.

2040 We just had some sort of police inspection. I feel like a fucking drug smuggler because I have four packets of, well, fuck knows, let's call them peanuts they gave me at Chopp Cordoba which I shoved in my pocket against the hour I might be desperate enough to want to eat them.

Some tedious film on about robot boxing. Soundtrack not too loud though.

2140 At a terminal somewhere. Most people got off, either because they are travelling here or to stretch their legs. I don't want to and haven't. But been fucked around and transferred from bus to bus so much recently am wondering if it's going to turn out I am expected to change. Fortunately not everyone has got off.

Friday 1208. At La Mira waiting to be served. Bus got in about 1110. Woke up with the usual pseudo-hungover 'I am so dehydrated and there is water next to me but I cannot exert myself to move and obtain it' but generally OK journey.

Was going to walk to hostel but terminal surrounded by howling wasteland of un-pedestrian-friendly roads so abandoned walk after five mins and went back to terminal for taxi.

Naturally some minor fuck up with rooms at hostel and I am in one room tonight and another tomorrow. Not such a big deal except I always worry I am getting shafted financially (I have a feeling first night's room may not have private bathroom, and if so it should be cheaper). Hostelworld do some sort of $50 compensation under their '100% guaranteed' scheme which I may look into, but even if this qualifies I always feel it might piss the hostel off to complain. We shall see.

Just got served, waitress asked if I wanted a large coffee, which is the first time this has happened. Said yes and we shall see what turns up.

Oh, if I forgot to say, I don't have the room yet, they are cleaning it so they are looking after my bag for an hour and I'm here.

The large coffee is pretty normal looking to me.

1352 Withdrew some cash, checked in. They did give me a discount so fine. Room OK though exactly one power point which also used for the light...

Wifi not working in room but hopeful will do elsewhere. Bob Dylan song from Highway 61 Revisited about 'Lost in Juarez' whose title escapes me playing in reception. :-)

Salta, Wednesday

2022 At hostel lurking in room. It is evidently raining quite heavily. Shall have a shower in a bit then maybe go out, totally unclear. I think the phone keyboard is getting knackered.

Up about 11 not feeling great. Went to museum of high altitude archaelogy which was moderately diverting; of the three mummies on rotation I got to see the girl struck by lightning. (If I come back here I can see if I get a different one next time...) After that had a sandwich from a shop in the plaza and managed not to feel too ill. (I didn't finish my humble dinner of chicken and rice yesterday.) Was going to go to bus terminal and/or back up Cerro San Bernardo but feeling just a bit rough/weak I instead loitered at Mistral over a diet coke, went back to the hostel and then popped out about 7 to view the interior of the cathedral and iglesia de San Francisco.

Not sure what to do tonight in terms of eating or drinking. Also not sure what to do tomorrow. I could get an 18h bus to Mendoza, which would put me there for Fri night (party! ;-) ) and may or may not tax my body too much (it might even be sort of restful). I could alternatively get an overnight 8/10h bus to Catamarca/La Rioja, spend one night there (winging it, hostelworld.com doesn't list them) then go on to Mendoza overnight on Friday. This might be easier on me, yet might not. Those places sound cool but they also push the schedule out a little; Mendoza-BA is 13-18h (!) according to guide book, so if I am there Fri, Sat and Sun nights, it would be an easy-ish (if I can get a 13h bus) overnight Monday to BA. Actually that's a bit early. If I break for one night in Catamarca/La Rioja it pushes that out by two nights, so would be overnighting to BA Wednesday night, giving me Thu and Fri night there before I fly back Sat. Hmm. Is it really worth pushing things to be in Mendoza for the weekend? On the other hand, a simple 18h mostly overnight bus with a pre-booked ho(s)tel at the far end might be a lot more relaxing than 8h pseudo-overnight, finding a hostel just for one night and then a 10h overnight, plus it means an extra day 'homeless' due to the extra overnight bus.

I half hoped writing that down would help me come to a decision but it hasn't yet. Even if my health were perfect it would be a bit tricky and as it is I am not sure which is least demanding. I might - checkout is at 11 - sleep on it and try to decide first thing tomorrow morning. If my health were perfect I'd probably be able to care less, since you never know what will happen and you could spin the decision as 'win-win'.

2124 Showered. At City Bar just off plaza. Having griled chicken breast and rice, that being about the lightest thing I could find. Guts still churning a bit but I have to wonder if in part it's hunger. I figure I ought to eat and while it would suck to have it backfire on me now, it would suck more to eat tomorrow midday and have it backfire then.

I am leaning towards simply going onto Mendoza tomorrow. As a general rule I don't like to spend a single night anywhere (as I would if I go to Catamarca/La Rioja) as you don't get a really good rest or time to see the place in a relaxed mood. And - touch wood etc - it's probably less stressful and tiring to just sit on a bus for 18h, especially in cama, than to do the shorter trips. If I don't have a bad night tonight (and I didn't have a bad night last night, even if it wasn't great) I see no reason why being on the bus should be torture, and if push comes to shove I guess I can jump off midway.

If I had all the time in the world I might stay on here an extra night (possiby in a different ho(s)tel - staring at the underside of the top bunk is a grim way to relax in my room, I guess I could clear all the shit off the top bunk and lie on that but it's not really to my taste either) and give myself a bit more time to recover. As it is I am not feeling too bad and I don't really want to waste any more time than necessary. If I do have a bad night I might reconsider. On the other hand, if I am going to Mendoza it would be good to get the accommodation booked tonight. In principle I guess best of both worlds would be to get up at 9 or 9:30 and do it then. Might have a look tonight and see if rooms are scarce. I am assuming I can get a seat on a bus, I hope that is the case. In a way would have been better to sort all this out during business hours today but I can't really regret it as this way I have had more time to see how I'm recovering.

In one guide book entry did note it said bus prices shown were mid-season ones, which may account for some of discrepancy. On the other, the high altitude archaelogy museum was ARS40 for foreigners not 30 as shown in guide book, so maybe it is just out of date.

Oh, it is spitting a bit but not really heavy now; dunno what it was like earlier. Hostel is a few minutes' walk away anyway.

2215 Ate about half and feel slightly sick. Not sure what to make of this. Just asked for bill, shall go back to hostel and pack and see what happens.

Bit of a cheek, bill was 53, I said to make it 65 and they gave me 30 in change from a 100. On top of that they gave me a 10% discount voucher when I was dithering before I sat down which I didn't use as it seemed cheap. Oh well.

2309 At hostel, been looking into accomodation. Dunno if got it right earlier but nearly options are Catamarca and La Rioja, *not* Cafayate.

2336 OK, I am going to Mendoza. Just hope I can get a bus ticket tomorrow. There is not much non-dorm availability Fri-Sun nights in hostels and proper hotels were pricey (sixty quid a night) for the weekend, but I managed to get a twin with private bathroom at a hostel for ARS180/night, which is comparatively OK. Could have scrimped a bit and gone for shared bathroom (ARS140/night) but after Monday night I figure it's a luxury worth paying for until I feel myself again. I can also seize the opportunity to do all my laundry; I have done a bit in the shared bathroom here but it's all a bit furtive. Was tempted to revert to Catamarca given the lack of options in Mendoza but really don't fancy the idea of winging looking for accommodation on arrival if I'm feeling at all ropy. Especially when, for the same reason, I am less willing than usual to stay in a dorm. I've done it before when out of options and I am sure I will again, but I have at least been in rude health. The last thing I need on top of feeling ill is worrying about disturbing people in the middle of the night... (I suspect you can nearly always get a dormitory bed. I don't think any of the hostels I looked at didn't have one available.)

Oh, there is a 1 day cancellation policy, so - touch wood - if I feel crap in the morning or am unable to get a bus ticket, I can probably cancel for free. Failing that it will cost me one night's stay, which isn't the end of the world.

Now I'm about to leave will say I've been at Hostal del Centro in (street) Cordoba here. Undeniable value for money, good location and it's not their fault I got sick.

I do think I must have been more than just tired on Monday after all; the effects were too extreme that night and have lingered too long to be attributable to the alcohol alone, and it's not like I went on a massive bender either. I hope another easy day or so - and sitting on the bus hopefully counts as easy - will see me right. I have been dogged by some kind of illness most of the trip so far, and when not ill I've been in its shadow.