Friday 9 March 2012

Rosario-Buenos Aires

0129 A few random observations:

Am reading Fitzroy's account of the Beagle etc expedition to South America. Fascinating and I encounter for the first time in literature the name of navigator Sarmiento, who seems to have a street named after him in every Argentinian city. I observed this before I found out who he was.

The Ford Sierra appears to linger on here; I have seen several in various cities. It may just be the unexpected familiarity which renders it conspicuous here, but I don't remember the last time I saw one in the UK.

I have what I assume is a mosquito bite on my ankle. I remember similar things before, most notably in Tlaquepaque in 2007. How the fuck does this happen? Of all parts of my body few are better protected; during the day it is covered by my socks (and trousers, pretty much) and at night by the bedsheets. Maybe it's not a mosquito bite but my general inference from previous experiences is that it probably is. It's almost certainly not a sore or blister.

1213 On 1205 bus to Retiro bus terminal (the phone keyboard is playing up; the space bar seems very unreliable, what a crock of shit). Perhaps stupidly took first bus offered which was all-cama, no matter. Fuck me this keyboard is annoying.

Got up about 1030 and just packed in time. Clothes still damp, sigh, they will have to moulder in my bag. Super-helpful woman at reception said I could have breakfast even though it nominally finishes at 11 but I declined. Bought bottle of water and some alfajores at terminal to bloat my bag and to take into work if they survive the trip home. Not been told arrival time for this bus but am assuming it'sabout 4hours. See how shitit iswhen I don't go out ofmywaytocompensate for the shittyspace bar.

Bus claims to have wifi but no sign of it. There is a network called 'Chupame la pija KRISTINA' though.

Enormously fat bloke sat to my left. Just an observation, not a problem as I have a single seat and he is across the aisle.

1836 At Clover Irish bar on Av de Mayo just round corner from hostel. Some sort of protest parade going by. Not clear what it's in aid of, if anything specific. I saw one pro-abortion thing and one guy with an anti-homophobia placard.

Got fucked over by taxi from bus terminal, ended up paying the guy 40after we basically did a circuit almostback there (fuck this keyboard) and got out and walked. Lovely and sweaty. Was a lot of traffic andwere a couple of closedstreets but he did seem to be blatantly not even heading towards where I wanted to go (I dug out Google Maps after a while).

Hostel right on Lima, can see obelisk from bedroom window. V noisy both due to being right on street and the central hostel bar. Bar does look OK though, may give it a try later.

Came out for food ,found that buffet on this street nr Saez Pena metro but not open yet. Sort of sat at table here wondering if will get served and maybe have drink while I see if buffet opens. If they givemea menu will consider eating here. To be honest I don't think I am going to get any service here anyway.

Got menu. Fuck it's expensive(tho if the bottles are litres they are standard price) but sod it, will have a michelada, was thinking about them the other day. Obviously an Irish bar in Argentina is the place to get one...

(Menu has 'Irish Car Bomb' on, which is Guinness, Jameson & Baileys.)

Not a great michelada, next to no 'sauce' in the glass. Oh well.

1906 Ordered a fernet cola, I want to try it. Shall then go eat somewhere, will go to the buffet if open, otherwise elsewhere. Then I think I might have a beer at the hostel bar and see if I can strike up a conversation, then perhaps a brief surf and relax in my room and wander out somewhere.

Check out is at 10 which seems a bit harsh, but it means I will have lashings of time to get to the airport - 4h40m til flight, so I shoudn't be too stressed getting a cab to the shuttle bus place and then the shuttle bus. Will go to an internet cafe to do online checkin and print boarding pass tomorrow afternoon (doesn't open til 24h before flight); I don't know if I need to do that but it won't hurt.

Fernet cola is very medicinal tasting but not bad at all.

When I got out of the cab I was swearing heavily to myself, especially on finding I was outside Kilkenny on that street with the bars whose name escapes me right now (Recova?) - Iknew that was 30 min walk from place I stayed three weeks ago walking even without a bag. My current hostel is on the same road, just two blocks further north (closer to 'centre').

Am aware from various ads and also radio in cab that today is Women's Day. Protest/parade may have been related but not totally clear.

1932 They just gave me a second big bowl of popcorn. This is perhaps a transparent attempt to get me to stay but I might have another fernet cola before going to eat. I don't want to get pissed, at least not this early, but I guess it will be fine.

1947 Got a second and bill; 76, made it 85. 38 for the michelada aka 330ml Corona was insane but I knew when I ordered, and very decently they seem to have given me the 2 for 38 happy hour deal on FC despite ordering them separately.

2011 At buffet. Had put phone between my legs on seat and nearly left it behind, FFS. Fortunately waitress pointed it out as was leaving. Note to self - DO NOT put it there any more, aways put it in pocket.

2107 Getting bill. As 3 weeks ago waiter pointed out desert is included and said I couldn't eat any more Not had much actually (one plate and a bit of rice after); felt a bit bloated before I even started,suspect I overdid popcorn at Clover. Not feeling too bad now and deliberately didn't force myself to eat more than I wanted.

0404 Well that was quite cool. Went to hostel bar and managed to get into conversation with a few people. To bed.

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