Salta, Tuesday

1822 At Mistela round corner from hostel where had coffee yesterday morning. Having chicken & rice. Only got up about 5pm after passing a very bad night. I am going to have a really easy evening of it and see if I can finally get back to my usual state of health. Plan is to eat here then go buy some soft drinks/water and have a quiet evening at the hostel surfing the web or similar.

Salta, Monday

0936 Coffee taking a long time to turn up but never mind, not really in a rush.

1011 Getting second coffee. Croissant was tiny, it now seems less excessive that I have seen places advertising coffee and three croissants as a deal. Nice though. Tempted to get another one with the coffee but restrained myself; might have a pizza for launch.

Laura Brannigan's (?) "Gloria" playing inside.

1056 Just paid. 20, 30 with tip. Shall go back to hostel, shower, maybe upload some photos, charge phone for an hour or so then out for lunch and a wander. Hostel offers some full day tours but shan't worry about that today, maybe tomorrow or day after.

1130 Hostel just round corner but room not ready at 11, said I'd come back in an hour. Wandered round main square a bit and now having small pizza at restaurant off square. Not a big deal, this just shifts some of my wandering time to this side of the hour or so I plan to loiter in the hostel.

Quite attractive town so far, a lot more obvious tourists wandering round (cameras etc) than in Cordoba unless memory deceives me.

Quite hot though not unbearably so; hazy memories of guide book led me to expect it to be a little cooler than this.

Pan pipe version of 'Nights in white satin' playing. :-)

1754 Left hostel about 3; took cable car up to top of Cerro San Bernado, wandered around up there and got cable car back down. Pretty cool, nice views and although I was a bit nervous for some reason the cable car ride was good fun.

Had a bit of a wander and withdrew cash, have wandered to the area where the bars are to check it out for tonight. Feeling slightly funny which I am attributing to hunger so have stopped off at Bonnie & Cylde (I know..., but it has quite a few people outside and is open) for milanesa de pollo with french fries. Plan is then to wander a bit further up this street, wend my way back to hostel and come out again about 9.

2131 Did as planned. At err some bar just a bit further up from B&C. Avoiding the excessive naffness in my current mood of the peñas. Feeling rather run down, it is probably either dengue fever or having slept on the bus and being woken twice and hence tired. Was slightly tempted to just go to bed but that wouldn't be playing the game. Shall probably not push it tonight, maybe just this one litre (on Iguana for a change; 'tis OK) and if not unlikely to be more than two and in bed by midnight (it's a 20 min walk from the hostel to here - hostel is v central, virtually next door to Iglesia San Francisco and a block or two from main plaza, but the area of Balcarce with the bars on is remote-ish). Shall not try to be up before 11 or midday tomorrow and fingers crossed will feel 100% then, or as close as I ever come on waking. Room is OK if spartan (can't complain for ARS90/night) and the wifi works in there but I have a bunk bed (all to myself), which is a bit crap. Still.

This place might be called Ibiza, probably is.

It is also vaguely conceivable I have ingested some insect repellent accidentally via sucking a finger or the like.

2255 Having a second litre. May not finish it. Feel a little tired but less so and more importantly am increasingly convinced I am nothing but tired.

Been noticing it since I got here but the distinctive 'sh' pronunciation of 'll' is, well, distinctive. I am not imitating it; I continue to speak Spanish with a British accent, as always.

2325 Reggae version of 'Boys Don't Cry' playing

Mana's 'Muelle de San Blas' now. This is OK. Pleasantly cool; I am wearing fleece because I always have it with me and it's easier to wear it, but I probably don't need it. Most people in short sleeves. Won't have another - I am sure it's the sweet brown liquor tempering my mood and giving me a slight second wind, I am doubtless tired and need a decent sleep in a proper bed - but this is nice. I think it's only the last few days I have really started to relax - been wound up about all kinds of shit for weeks - and just the lingering worries over illness have been tempering it the last couple of days. Do have the usual suspicion I'm not making the most of my time in pure 'seeing stuff' terms (you could easily spend weeks visiting nearby places just here, never mind seeing Salta, and the same for everywhere else), but sod it - I don't want to go haring around like mad out of some crazy sense of 'duty'. 'If it's Tuesday it must be Belgium' is just not my style.

Did think when up on Cerro San Bernardo Andy & Jolanta had probably been there (I believe he went to Salta on his Argentinian holiday, and surely it is one of the more obvious and cool places to visit), which was oddly cool. Shall have to see if they actually had been when I get home.

0024 Surprisingly lively for a Monday night (the street, not this bar as such). I really would quite like to stay out but I think that would be foolish; I still have a bit of my second litre left anyway. If am not shackled to an 8am start by a tour on Wednesday I may come out a bit later tomorrow night.

Possibly live Spanish language version of 'Lady in Red' from bar across street. Live music is always a draw but really not tonight I think. This is the first night I've struck proper nightlife; Chopp Cordoba wasn't a late spot and nowhere else seemed busy then either. But if I don't fuck around with tours - and there is plenty to do here in Salta itself - I have two more nights here and tomorrow night I don't have to be up early to check out, so I am going to bear in mind my earlier tiredness and not push it tonight.

0040 Who am I kidding? I will probably get another litre and maybe not finish it but fuck me, I've been waiting for this for too long. There is a remise office down the road too - NOT that I intend to be staggering drunk (FFS, we're looking at six pints tops, the last four having taken nearly four hours to drink and not finished yet) but it means I don't have to assume I have a twenty minute walk, not that it would kill me (or that dogs would ;-) - it's fine in a proper city). So take it easy and enjoy.

Do find it a bit odd - and sort of observed it before at Chopp Cordoba - that there are very young children here with their families. Yes, yes, responsible and mature alcohol consumption, but the simple fact it's 1am surprises me. I guess the late hours culture is just so natural. Really it should (and kind of does) suit someone like me down to the ground.

Battery at 38% and spare not charged yet but twil be fine.

0105 Just ordered third. Waiters here seem reluctant to accept my waving the bottle when they are at a distance as a request; they come over and ask. I only do it to save them walking over needlessly - even my Spanish nowadays is up to 'otra, por favor' - and elsewhere it seems to have been accepted and as far as I can tell appreciated.

I got an ice bucket with this beer; didn't understand what the guy said but still. At 24-27ish a litre it's going to be 100 with tip anyway so even if - probably not - I am charged for the ice, sod it.

0149 Just asked for bill. Don't regret staying out as such but the first fine pleasure of doing it didn't mature into ongoing enjoyment. 81, 100 with tip. Won't rush off but probably won't finish this litre. Will walk back I think. Hostel reception is 24h and if they don't mean it they shouldn't say it. I should avoid significant censure; I am not really drunk and the walk will take the edge off anyway.

0224 Back at hostel. No problem getting in. Left about half of last bottle. Walk back very pleasant actually; I do like that kind of thing. Bars on Balcarce obviously not shutting but perhaps a bit quiet, moving towards the plaza much deader but a few people on the streets, a few cars, a few pairs of cops patrolling. Street dogs behaved themselves as I expected. This place seems much more vibrant - perhaps just more obviously so - than anywhere have yet been, despite the reputations of BA and Cordoba. If I had to be exiled in Argentina, I'd probably pick Salta based on the scanty evidence of today.

La Cumbre-Salta

Saturday 2342 FFS. Been wearing contacts all day so I could wear my cheap sunglasses (bought in SPdA for the sandboarding) while paragliding. Too long when I'm not used to them but one day won't hurt, and I expected to be taking them out about midday. Was in the bath with my eyesight all weird reading DGGA. Suddenly noticed I couldn't see close up but could see well in the middle distance. WTF? Had my eye muscles unscientifically adapted or something? Finally realised I hadn't taken one of the lenses out despite thinking I had done...

Battery only up to 30%, sigh. Still, probably a good hour before I feel the need to go to bed.

0011 OK, found somewhere half-decent sounding in Salta which will do me a single room, shared bathroom for ARS90 a night. Have booked. Won't say where out of some possible paranoid security concern. Will say now it's too late to matter have been at Los Mimbres here in La Cumbre.

Really I'd probably be fractionally safer being explicit about my plans ahead of time; it's not like anyone is going to select a victim based on a random obscure blog, whereas if something *did* happen at least having it on here would make the last known place more obvious. But I shall go with the conventional wisdom as I remember it for now.

1040 Didn't want to get up but not too bad. Paid, now having coffee at Silverio. Just been to bank to get some cash.

Hotel owner bloke originally only wanted to charge me for one night not two; he thought it was one. They couldn't take credit cards, which I half expected, but due to not going back to hotel after paragliding yesterday I didn't have a suitable cash card on me to get cash yesterday.

I would have left my bag there this morning and come into town for cash in a pinch but as it happens I didn't need to, and I'm damn glad given the number of fucking dogs in people's gardens barking their heads off as I walked into town after paying.

Anyway, I offered to pay with travellers cheques - I bought some as emergency reserve for the 2010 trip - and they agreed, so I paid USD150 and ARS55 cash (they didn't have change for a 100 either, fortunately I did have a 50 on looking again). I must admit when I left I felt like I'd tricked them into accepting counterfeit notes or something; travellers cheques are so unfamiliar they don't feel like proper money to me. I half expected to be called back as I was leaving.

Glad I managed to get rid of some more of the TCs. I suppose they are sort of useful but sort of not. I suppose I could cash them in where I bought them but I never seem to think about it in London. I don't know how many I have left but having just USD50/100 worth might not be a bad idea in the long run. Though then again losing USD100 isn't the end of the world, if you've had all your other stuff nicked it pales into insignificance, so maybe you'd be as well with US notes. Dunno.

Feels a bit silly loitering round here but it's probably better than loitering in Cordoba and as I said yesterday would be good to have lunch here, if Mateos doesn't open super late because it's Sunday. Weather cool but pleasantly so when the wind doesn't blow (and it's not like last night). Very Sunday morning feeling with a few people sitting around having coffee and so on. Shame it's not slightly less windy.

Worst case is I can't get a bus to Cordoba, which is unlikely and I have a half-price room available here, or I can't get a bus to Salta, which is also unlikely and I am sure I can get a bed of some description in Cordoba if push comes to shove.

Oh, the hotel owner chap - who was very pleasant, if a bit slow - said he was an architect and liked this building in London - drawing as he said it a passable sketch of the Gherkin.

This was all done in Spansh. I have not been doing too well on the language so far, though it has been useful in situations like that. Someone asked me the time at the top of the hill with the statue on yesterday and I couldn't remember how to say 'half past two' and ended up just showing her my watch.

To use a Mark Twain-ish expression, it's like I haven't got my Spanish unlimbered properly. It's been rare for me to speak more than a sentence or two at a time and it doesn't seem enough for me to get back into the swing of it properly.

Slight concerned it being Sunday may mean the buses to Cordoba are awkward but I did wander round the terminal yesterday and the timetables suggested otherwise. I really can't see the buses being full either. I guess worst case is I end up waiting an hour or two.

While I remember, first day at Mateos they didn't ask how I wanted the steak. Second day they did and I asked (clumsily) how they'd done it the previous day, to which IIRC the waitress said 'a punto' (tho that is not in the free dictionary I am using on my phone). I might guess it means well done; steak was not at all bloody though not blackened either. I suspect this is heretical but sod it; it was good anyway. Normally I would have asked for medium but since I liked it the way it was cooked the first day seemed best to stick with that.

Fighting down urge to get moving ASAP in case I somehow regret the loss of time later (eg when I get to Cordoba at 6pm somehow and find I can't get on a bus to Salta as they're all full) but I shall resist; it's not going to be a problem and it's not the end of the world if there is a hitch.

1210 At Mateos, only person here (they are clearly just opening). Having the bife de chorizo again; feel a bit of a predictable fool, was tempted to have the parilla (they actually do it for one person here) but sod it, might as well have something I know I will enjoy and take advantage of the excellent meat here while I can - the sort of places I normally frequent have been acceptable but nothing outstanding.

1323 Into the lining! Just got to bus terminal, was bus there, bought ticket and leaving now. Quite empty at moment but suspect will fill up a bit en route.

OK, just e-mailed address on receipt for hostel in La Cumbre I paid the deposit for and it bounced. So tough, I did my best to keep them informed.

Battery at 61%; only managed to charge spare up to about 85 yesterday. Should be OKish but I shall have to try reading DGGA (despite it being a bit overdone lately) by way of conserving power.

1621 Just paid ARS377 for bus to Salta. Way more than guide book says (165 IIRC, albeit I am travelling cama but that shouldn't make that much difference) but I asked two companies and both about same. Bus goes at 7, would rather have gone with other company leaving 8-something but they couldn't do me an aisle seat in cama and given I've been feeling a bit jittery all of a sudden didn't want to go window or semi-cama aisle. Suddenly got worried about bowels when got on bus to Cordoba despite just having gone to bog and all fine. Feeling bit hot and sweaty here all of a sudden. Think I'm just getting worked up. I could be ill but it's not very likely.

1658 At Turizta cafe/bar opposite terminal after a lovely sweaty walk ten minutes up the road and back to see if I could find an open pharmacy to buy more loperamide - I couldn't (found two, both shut - I love Sundays). I took two on the minibus just in case once I became irrationally worried and only have four left, which is probably enough even if I need them, though not ideal, and I probably don't need them.

Not feeling too bad right now. FFS, this morning I was feeling pretty relaxed. Oh well. I guess today's concern essentially all derives from the case of Montezuma's revenge I suffered in BA; I just don't trust my body fully yet it seems, even though I probably should.

Money seems to be pouring away like water today. Withdrew 800 this morning and had about 100 on me before that, I have already spent about 500 with food and bus tickets. Does rankle that the guide book, which I bought under two weeks ago, seems so monstrously inaccurate on prices. Yes of course it's not going to be updated weekly but I might expect it to bear some resemblance to reality.

1815 Nearly finished this beer (just the one litre). Mind been a bit up and down but feeling relatively chilled again now, also a little sleepy actually.

Ticket has our arrival at 753 approx, so it's more like 13h, maybe this is a slow bus. Still, probably for the best as it means I am more likely to be able to get a coffee or something on arrival.

Feeling I should rush but have paid (19,  25 with tip) and just need to use bog and terminal is right opposite so no major problem.

1835 On lower concourse of terminal waiting for the bus. Used toilet (to do no more than have a slash) in bar. On walking over to the terminal suddenly started worrying about bowels. Fuck off, brain, this is clearly not a problem so give it up.

Should say the minibus arrived at a terminal I didn't recognise as either the main terminal or the rather grotty minibus terminal. Huge, spacious, under-signed and half empty. Turned out to be the evidently under-used new terminal 2 of the main bus terminal, linked by a short passageway to the old terminal where I first arrived in Cordoba and where I am now.

On reaching the T1 end of the passage much amusement was being generated by a dog walking up the down escalator,
as if on a treadmill. I assume it was a stray. It didn't appear too distressed and it was only just below the top, so I assume it could have easily outpaced the escalator had it wanted. The amusement was fairly good natured and I must admit I felt the same myself; as I say, it didn't seem too bothered, it looked a bit bored if anything.

1902 On bus. Slightly amusingly when it pulled up it was too close to the edge of the parking bay and the passenger compartment door wouldn't open. They had to back it out and pull in again. Bus a bit tatty in an ill-defined way but cama fairly spacious.

I did observe people tipping the luggage chap as they collected their bags. So maybe I slightly badmouthed the chappie on arrival here. On the other hand I did not notice other people tipping and I still think he was out of order asking for it even if they were. A few coins seems the done thing, I have an ARS2 note which I shall hand over with my ticket.

Chap just came to sweep the floor by my seat; I didn't understand and he explained in one word of English: "clean", adding "children!". Shame I didn't get this in Spanish but there you go. No one in seat to my left yet; it looked free when I booked so I picked this one of the two aisle seats free so I'd be in with a chance of a double. No major deal if not. Cama is sufficiently spacious a window seat would be OK, you could probably climb over the legs of a person next to you even if they were sleeping, but with my jitters earlier didn't like to risk it.

We are pulling out so I may have got the double, at least until some later stop. Final destination is Jujuy not Salta but have set an alarm on phone for 0730 and I think Jujuy is a couple of hours further on, so if I do end up sleeping past Salta it's not the end of the world. Right now can't see why I felt jittery earlier, guess it was as I said earlier, ultimately down to the BA troubles and stirred up again by the toilet-free minibus journey. (They're not minibuses like a school would have - or would have had in my day, I expect schools keep fleets of limousines these days - they are just smaller than regular coach-type buses, maybe 2/3 the length and single deck.)

Battery at 19% but with the spare, even at 85%, it's fine.

This text editor has the super-useful feature that shift-delete destroys the entire line with no undo. What great thinking. I am *always* wanting to destroy the entire line with no undo, and why would I ever accidentally press shift-delete? Genius.

0411 Woohoo. Woken twenty mins ago by conductor chap saying 'change bus' in English. Just got routed out onto another non-cama bus which is pulling out now. GPS and sign saw in terminal say this is (San Miguel de) Tucuman. Will I be getting a partial refund? Doubt it. Do at least have double to myself.

0740 Fuck me. Half asleep. Didn't catch announcement as a) dozing and b) had headphones in. GPS showed not in Salta tho near. Turns out we have to transition to another fucking bus, which I am sat on now. Fuck-a-doodle-do.

Would have missed it had not couple sat to my right asked me where we were and then kept asking around when I said I didn't know (I wasn't sure and wasn't going to take responsibility) only the the responses they got seemed to suggest this was Salta. I got off fairly sure it wasn't but it turns out I was right but irrelevantly so, when I spoke to staff outside the bus.

If GPS to be believed we are about 20 miles east of Salta and a couple of miles south of General Guemes. Worryingly few people changing bus but I saw the guy put my bag in the boot of this one and I still have my luggage ticket so sod it, as long as am with the bag it's fine.

Seat numbers different on this bus but sat downstairs in cama. This bus is branded by same company I booked with, unlike one I just got off, so I suspect they used some other company to fill in when the first bus (presumably, I never got a chance to ask) broke down but that other company's bus wasn't going to Salta.

0925 Sorted. Walked from bus terminal to hostel, checked in and they are looking after my bag til check in at 11. Wifi works.

Loads of people cleaning their teeth in the toilets at the bus terminal, which somehow seemed odd.

At Mistela cafe-bar round the corner, the woman at the hostel pointed me here. Getting coffee and a croissant. Bit hot but not too bad. Dengue fever posters here as in La Cumbre; insect repellent is in my bag so fingers crossed. I should probably start carrying it in my pocket.

La Cumbre, Saturday

1243 Hmm. Not done it yet. Have called a few times and latest is I need to call back at 4pm. So have come to Mateos for steak & chips. I may regret this but I can't not eat all day. Because of hanging around have not been up to the Cristo Redentor statue either. Just might see if I can pop over after eating but it's all a little awkward for time.

Skype won't work over hotel wifi so ended up using my PAYG SIM to call TF and pay the fifteen quid; it 'only' cost about three quid though. TF are very good about this sort of thing over the phone, I must say - they called me back instead of leaving me hanging while they checked the price. (It still cost the same to receive the call, but the saving was in not hanging on the line.)

Bit concerned about all this and may have to get a remise to launch point and wondering what will happen about my bag if they're not providing transport. Just have to play it by ear.

1838 OK, well that was a bit random. I just flew, now waiting until sunset (possibly) to get lift back.

The flight was very cool, no problems though I did tense up a bit when the pilot started doing some kind of wobby flying; I thought it was turbulence. He could see I didn't like it and stopped; I half wish he hadn't, it might have been OK once I knew what it was. Took some photos on a 'point camera in vague direction and press button' basis.

Landing was on the same point and takeoff; he told me to put my feet up and we came down arse first. I guess that's safer than landing upright when you're not on sand and you have inexperienced passengers.

Wasn't as jittery as last time before takeoff, though the sort of glide down the 45 degree slope as we took off was a little disturbing.

Had the hotel keys in my pocket and no weird overall suit on this time so was slightly worried they'd fall out, but kept telling myself it wasn't the end of the world if they did.

View very different from in Iquique; it's all green hills and the river here, as opposed to the cityscape in Iquique.

Did sort of imagine I felt sort of queasy after a bit, but I don't know if I really did. It wasn't a problem and I just kept my eyes on the horizon if I was worried about it.

So absolutely would do it again, again, and there really isn't any cause to be worried.

I wasn't expecting to do it today; when I called at 4 (had been getting a little nervous before) it was kind of agreed we'd aim for Monday morning but that I'd call about 4-5pm Sunday in case there was a chance. I went and paid 100 deposit for a 200/night dorm to myself at another ho(s)tel nearer the town centre for Sunday night (it's 350 where I am now) which may turn out to be a write off now.

When I got back to the hotel someone asked me if I was the English guy interested in hangliding. Ended up speaking with some woman who lives at the hotel and is a friend of the pilot chap and she called him on her mobile so I could talk to him. The conditions had suddenly improved and they had been trying to get hold of me. So they came and picked me up and here I am.

It's ARS400 which is more than the guide book indicates (250) - actually the new hostel is similarly expensive (200 vs 130ish for private room shared bathroom in guide) - but worth it I think.

I may ask if they can drop me in town on the way back; I can then muse on what to do tomorrow and look into booking when I get back, which isn't likely to be significantly later than yesterday, ie midnight. If it's sunset by then I would have to get a cab into town from the hotel and I'd rather not; I'm also not quite ready to book yet as I need to decide what to do.

I may write off that 100 and go on tomorrow (it may be an option to go to Mendoza direct from here, instead of having to go to Cordoba first), but I could maybe spend the day here. I don't know if there's much else I want to do though it is sort of relaxing here.

If I do write off that 100 bit torn as the super-relaxed owner (who drove up while I was loitering at desk to inquire, and drove off again after - he offered me a lift to my hotel, but I said I'd rather walk) seemed OK and I don't want to leave him unable to rent the room out (assuming there's anyone interested; it's not like the place feels overrun with toursts) because he's expecting me to turn up, but if I do go in in person to tell him he may try to insist I pay him the other 100. So being as helpful as possible could end up costing me money. (I assume he is the owner and this wasn't a scam. Probably OK. I did get a receipt from the desk, though that isn't absolute proof it was legit of course.)

Did go up to the Cristo Redentor statue in the gap between lunch and the 4pm phone call. Few dogs en-route but no big deal. Walk up was a bit of an exertion but nothing major. The statue can be seen from parts of the town but it's not absolutely on the top of the hill. It's a little unimpressive close up but still worth seeing, and there's a good view of the town from the top. Felt a bit rushed but really I had plenty of time; I was mainly rushed in that I might have liked to go to the hotel for a bath after but it felt just a bit too tight; by 3pm or just after I was nursing a diet coke at a small cafe round the corner from the call booth place, mainly so I coud use the toilet.

I suppose rationally the 100 is gone ('sunk cost fallacy') and the choice is to stay here tomorrow night, effectively paying 100 for the night, or to go tomorrow morning as originally planned (though it was always a bit left up in the air). That, perhaps modulated by hostel availability in Mendoza/Salta, is what I need to consider tonight over a beer.

Oh, I do wonder if they gave me a parachute as part of the harness thing for the flight and just didn't tell me. No idea, except it would be the natural naive explanation for the bulk of the harness which otherwise seems inexplicable.

2012 At some bar on 25 de Mayo; La Recova is on this street too, was going to go there but no tables free outside.

Had to switch to spare phone battery this afternoon and it's now down to 65%. Charging both may be a bit of a bugger tonight and I do want both full if I am to be 'homeless' from 10am Sunday until let's say midday Monday.

My bowels played up slightly this morning; I sort of put it down to nerves but not sure that's really the case. That might sort of argue for spending tomorrow here, as might the battery charging, but these are somewhat feeble arguments. My inclination is to leave tomorrow now I've done what I came here to do and don't feel there's anything massively desirable I could do with an extra day.

Pilot chap (who spoke English; I don't know if there's cause and effect but he lived in East Dulwich for three months) said when I said something about feeling this place was quite nice and comfortable said all English people feel that here; apparently the town was founded by English immigrants and that has influenced the architecture.

He also said they're having an unusually wet summer and it's not usually as green as this. He said England was greener and that might be true but don't know if he was being honest or trying to be nice.

He said it will probably rain tomorrow and might rain tonight. That would be yet another argument in favour of leaving tomorrow.

We also talked a bit about the dogs in the street.

Anyway, going to have a bit of a browse in guide book.

2043 This place is Cafe Silverio.

Inclination is towards Salta. Lots of interesting stuff round there and sounds like I could easily pass rest of holiday in that area. It's 18h from there to Mendoza but if I do that I am sure there's somewhere worth stopping at least one night in between. Mendoza has paragliding possibilities and as noted before the temptation of being near Santiago; on both grounds better to leave it a bit. *If it's easy* I could imagine paragliding there, but I don't want to do it so soon after today's flight and the distortion it's caused to my plans/equanimity for the last three or four days.

Salt is IIRC 12h from Cordoba, which bowels permitting should be an easy overnight run tomorrow night with plenty of time to get the bus back to Cordoba and head over to the terminal to buy a ticket. Plus 12h means I could probably be leaving Cordoba 9pm or even 8pm (so not killing too much time in town homeless with my luggage) without getting in at a totally unearthly hour of the morning.

The pilot was extolling the virtues of travelling on a whim as we drove back; on that basis I would turn up at Cordoba bus terminal and just pick somewhere. (Possibly it would be in the spirit of this to then see roughly where it is, possibly not.) This has a certain romantic appeal, but given my preference (not absolute insistence, but still) for private rooms I do like to book my hostels at least the day before. It's also the case that while serendipity often comes up trumps in my experience, a random walk isn't the best way to search a given space. (And a random walk which tries to avoid retracing its steps is not great.) I think I'm doing pretty well being as free-and-easy as I am - I have a hazy route in mind (in this case - a circuit BA-Cordoba-Mendoza-Salta) which I am prepared to abandon or modify as fits the circumstances (eg my willingness to stay on here an extra night to do paragliding, even if that means part of the proposed circuit has to be omitted due to lack of time) and tend to have firm plans for the next one or two days most of the time, but no further ahead. This being a short bummel (the more time-rich traveller has a big advantage here) I also need to keep one eye on the clock with a view to ensuring I can get back to BA in time for the return flight. (Flying back is probably an option from most place, but one I am half inclined to regard as cheating.)

2231 Just been inside to use toilet; as I suspected but wasn't sure til now, this is the same place I nursed that diet coke at 3pm. Odd how different things feel now...

2252 Just paid, 40, 50 with tip. Wind getting a bit fierce and has been for a while, kind of consistent with it raining maybe. Most people still sitting outside - not that it's heaving - and it's not that bad, just rather brisk.

Just checked and is an e-mail address on the receipt for the 100 I paid for the room tomorrow night. Think I will e-mail once on the bus to Cordoba and know I won't need the room; honour combined with practicality. Guy probably wouldn't make me pay the other 100 if I turned up in person - FFS, isn't that what a deposit is all about? - but why chance it? I actually offered to pay the whole 200, but he didn't insist. I doubt he's going to have been turning people away anyway. Shall finish this beer - nearly done - then remise to hotel. Put phone on charge, bath and then look into Salta hostels and hopefully this battery will reach 100% before I want to go to bed and I can switch the other in overnight.

May stick around long enough to have another steak at Mateo's (sometimes they print it with the apostrophe and sometimes without) before I leave tomorrow. Cheaper and better than I'm likely to get in Cordoba and it's not like there's a major rush tomorrow, given the bus onwards will be overnight and leaving 8pm at the earliest. (It was good today but slightly less ecstatic than the first; probably a combination of not being pleasantly surprised and worry that I'd be enjoying it a second time in reverse 300m above the mountains...) Plus that way I get to eat lunch at lunchtime; I can always have dinner in Cordoba but at least I won't be perishing when I get into Cordoba.

2311 Back. Some other guests on terrace - as my experience on returning to find they had been trying to call about paragliding shows - they are clearly not empty as I had suspected, if not heaving. Shall send this now and put any waffle about onward plans in next entry.

La Cumbre, Friday

1153 On bus. One turned up at 1110 and departed 1115 (time on my ticket) but driver wouldn't let me on. Too disturbed and unconfident to understand why, but fortunately two guys ahead of me seemed to get the same treatment. Hung around and was allowed on this one, which is just leaving. Managed to get bag into overhead rack and have an aisle seat, in fact a double though I don't expect that to last.

People kept asking me questions about where to get their bus or where this and that went. Well, OK, it happened about three times. Do I not look like a tourist all of a sudden?

1350 La Falda bus terminal. Lots of people got off and I nearly did but fortunately asked some guys sat behind me where we were. Think we are nearly there. Mind running heavily on food...

1425 Here. Been to tourist office and got map and some paragliding leaflets, now getting bife de chorizo and chips (was going to have a scrambled egg too but I got tangled up in unintelligible discussion with the waitress on the point) at some restaurant opposite bus terminal (quite nice though). Will go find the hotel after but don't want to miss out on lunch.

Bit odd in tourist office, woman perfectly friendly but somehow I seemed to be expecting her to say stuff and she didn't.

Juan Luis Guerra song about 'te regalo una rosa' on, and - oddly, to me - a Spanish language version of Living La Vida Loca before this.

1505 Now that was a good steak. About an inch thick and amazingly tender. The portion of french fries was microscopic but still. Going to have another diet coke and then head over to hotel, which on a close look is shown on the map I got at the tourist office. (Guide book doesn't have a map of La Cumbre itself.)

Only ARS62, made it 80 with tip.

1741 Sweated balls off walking to hotel. It is large and deserted; I seem to have been shown to my room by the cleaner. Attempted to walk over to the Aero Club as 'recommended' by the guide book to book paragliding but it's fucking miles and I gave up after half an hour. Went back to tourist information and asked if they could call to book for me. They sort of tried but in the end they told me to go to the call booth across the road and call some guy's mobile (they can only call landlines). Apparently he speaks English but when I spoke to him he said in Spanish he was flying. (I trust not literally at that moment!) I said I'd call back in an hour but not overly optimistic. Consequently having a beer (a 354ml can, FFS) while I wait.

1823 Sat here after finishing it. ARS12, 17 with tip. Can't say I'm keen to call and the bloke from the newsagent cum call office has been stood outside his door with a mate for the last twenty minutes. And fuck, I am now down to a small handful of change, an ARS2 note and a 100 note. Just have to chance it and up the bill with a bottle of water or the like if the guy kicks.

2012 At La Recova (?, odd font) having beer. Spoke to the guy or some friend he was with, he said it might be possible tomorrow depending on weather. I need to be ready between 9-9:30 and his friend will pick me up if weather OK. All seems a bit casual but still. Shall have to be up early to call Trailfinders and spend the extra £15 (called this morning and what a shock, it is a one-shot fee rather than a general extension to the policy). Feeling a bit jittery to be frank but I guess that's just me.

Town very pleasant but infested with dogs barking their fucking heads off in the evening, which I probably should have expected. I got yanked out of the bath (the water was an unpleasant brown colour but at least it was hot) to fill in a card with my details on and took the opportunity to ask what I assume to be the owner about taxis. I can apparently get a remise from one of the offices in the centre (have seen several) which are open late or all night. I walked over to town since it was daylight.

Was tempted to stay at hotel tonight but room while large is very dingy and hence a bit grim, even if there is wifi (good job, as I need it to call TF tomorrow on Skype) and I think might be too depressing. Did fight down minor burst of panic as I was getting in the bath but not feeling too bad now. It is mainly the landing that worries me but I guess it's OK and you are probably looking at breaking something which will mend in time rather than dying. Sod it. Alea iacta est or whatever. If the guy turns up I'm doing it and if he doesn't I'm not. Lap of the gods stuff.

Obviously need to take it a little easy tonight.

If it happens, I guess it will all be over by midday. Plan then is to go treat myself to a steak at Mateo's (where I had lunch today) then go take a look at that statue of Cristo Redentor and climb the hill (350m!?) if I can. I will then be all done here and can leave Sunday (checkout is at 10am!!) with a clear conscience, head back to Cordoba, lunch there and book an overnight bus to wherever. I will decide on where tomorrow afternoon/evening, but it will probably be Salta.

2140 Must admit developing jitters right now. But I guess that's just me. I've done it before and it was totally cool and once you're in the air it's absolutely fine. The landing was just such a non-issue last time when it came down to it (no pun intended) as well, plus once you're in the air the landing is inevitable and you can hardly bottle it. ;-) I suspect there will be other people up there at the launch point too and that has got to help. I mean, the bus could have crashed today and I could have been seriously injured or killed but you just don't think about it, and I guess life is about taking risks. This also really isn't that big a risk I guess, it just looks and feels like one. FFS, I broke my arm in about the most boring way possible, despite having done loads of more risky things on the same trip. (Scrambling about on those rock formations on the Salar de Uyuni trip springs to mind, as do the Potosi mines. Fuck me, I don't know if I'd have the balls to go down there again.)

I just hope there's no glitch with the internet and/or Skype tomorrow morning when I have to call Trailfinders to make the payment for the insurance. It's all so early morning that it could be tricky to get in touch otherwise. (I did check when I spoke to them this morning that they'd be around to take the payment over the weekend, the issue is just with me making the phone call to them.)

I am glad I didn't spend the evening at the hotel, it would just have been worse sat there on my own. Feeling quite a lot calmer just for having written this.

I am a little embarassed but I have to admit when I did the paragliding in Iquique, after about 20 minutes I started to feel very slightly sick, though not too badly and I think it eased off fairly quickly. I guess that's just one of those things and in any case nothing to worry about; I won't have eaten and even if I were to puke my guts up it would be a minor embarassment at worst, not threatening life or limb. (I had a similar thing flying over the Nazca lines. I was smugly unaffected during the actual flight over the lines, despite two or three of the other passengers being physically sick, but presumably the same delayed action kicked in and I felt midly queasy as we were doing the plain and simple flight back to the airport.)

Just ordered a second litre; may not finish it but it's only 2158 and four pints isn't going to leave me hungover. I am planning to get up about 8 but I may actually try for 7 - the three hour time difference means I can call the UK no problem then - even if I then go back to bed (as if).

No doubt it won't actually happen now due to bad weather. ;-)

Paragliding aside, coming here was a good idea anyway. I quite look forward to toiling up the hill to the Cristo Redentor statue (which I haven't yet noticed on the skyline, though maybe I haven't been paying much attention). The place feels a little off the beaten track and makes a welcome change from BA and Cordoba. Once I got on the thing even the little (quite comfortable, actually, though the roads were just bad enough to make it hard to read a book on my phone a lot of the time with the vibrations) bus here felt right and different from the long-distance coaches. It's weird the way the hotel appears deserted too, reminds me a bit of the hostel in Valparaiso in November. I do wonder if I overdid the idea that it would be heaving here due to it being peak season. The bus was almost empty by the time it got into La Cumbre and I also didn't get the impression there were (m)any foreign tourists on it. San Pedro de Atacama this is not, by a long chalk.

Wow, amazingly fluffy big dog just walked past.

Should say my problem with the dogs, as always, is when they start barking at passersby. During the day at least in the more central areas they are totally unoffensive. This evening the sound of distant barking was seldom absent on the walk over here, even in daylight, but I do think a lot of it is caused by dogs in house gardens, not street dogs. (However, I did see three dogs getting worked up at a guy in an invalid carriage tooling down a quiet street near the hotel. He didn't seem too fussed about it.)

2308 Nearly done. Just paid, 40, 50 with tip. Damn well hope I can get a cab back as don't fancy the walk. Should be fine though.

2324 Sorted, respect due. No problem at all and there was even a friendly cat in the hotel grounds when I got back.

At the bar a little girl came up to me and said hello, we exchanged greetings and it was an awkward silence before she wandered off. A bit later on she turned up and said something I didn't understand, but I sort of got the impression she was lost. I said she should talk to the waitress and when she seemed reluctant I offered to go with her. Of course her mother was just inside. I explained what had happened. All totally fine but I do wonder what she actually said to me.

Not too jittery right now at all but give it time. Shall maybe have a bath, break my arm and avoid the situation. ;-)

Cricket or what have you in the room as far as I can tell. Might be outside. Lots of those sort of noises. Not a problem. I have been reading some Mark Twain and at one point a character observes the impossibility of locating the source of these noises, which is bang on.

Cordoba, Thursday

1429 Woke up about 930 but drifted off again and finally got up 1300ish. Total waste of the morning. In fourth restaurant of the day finally getting some lunch. Totally pessimistic about the paragliding, I can't see a hope in hell of getting a slot on a Saturday in peak season. No e-mail from expedia about the hotel either. May force myself to call someone (if anyone is) mentioned in guidebook this afternoon but really don't want to do it, I just can't imagine them being any help even assuming the language barriers can be overcome.

1532 Not bad. Loitered for a second diet coke. Probably not going to phone. Had enough. Will check I can find the minibus terminal anyway.

1612 Fuck knows. At unpreposessing minibus terminal. Just paid ARS35 for a ticket on the 1115 to La Cumbre tomorrow. Too early really but figure I need to allow time to hunt desperately around on arrival. I suspect I just threw my money away to be honest. The buses are fucking tiny, the platforms are unlabelled and the queues to board are fucking huge. So I probably won't even be able to get on the fucking bus in the first place. They even have a sign in the ticket office window saying 'Viernes y sabados no se hacen reservas sin exception' which I think says 'Fridays and Saturdays no reservations made, no exceptions'. So presumably the ticket I bought in no way constitutes a promise for them to do anything. Makes perfect sense I guess; on the busiest days, why would anyone want to make a reservation?

Also occurs to me I won't know if I can do the paragliding until Trailfinders shut for the weekend, so unless they tell me my existing premium covers me (why would they when they can screw me for an extra premium?) I am going to end up paying another fifteen quid even though I may not get to do it. Should have called them this morning but couldn't fucking face it, and unless they tell me I don't have to pay another premium it doesn't help. I suppose I could at least check the opening hours for making the payment. Gonna have to call tomorrow morning before I leave hostel now; great planning Steve. Because it's not as if I absolutely won't want to get up and deal with ALL THIS FUCKING SHIT tomorrow anyway.

I've really just about had it. I'm sick to fucking death of all this crap.

No idea what I am going to do now. Not in the fucking mood to do anything to be honest.

1649 Out of desperation looked in guidebook and there is supposed to be a guided tour of the Capilla Domestica at 5pm. I am stood outside the open door now loitering on the offchance. No signs here even hint at the existence of tours. Not that I really give two shits, I'm just going through the obligatory tourist motions here.

Time for a resolution on fucking La Cumbre/Paragliding. I will call Trailfinders tomorrow morning. I will get up early enough to do that and make an attempt to catch the minibus at 1115. I will do this even if the reservation at the overpriced hotel falls down. However, that is it. If I am not allowed on the minibus and the hotel has fallen through, I'm fucking off somewhere else. If I get there and I can't get a booking for paragliding, fuck it. I am sick to the back teeth of all this crap and if my exertions so far aren't enough then it can all go to hell. The fucking business has largely ruined yesterday and today and is going to ruin tomorrow, I feel like shit and I'm damn close to giving up.

1701 A couple just turned up, wandered round the vestibule (which is all that's open) and left.

1708 Well that was a bit odd. Some bloke turned up and asked me if they were open. He went a knocked on the door to the 'secreteria' and they let us in. No tour as such but I stood there and had a look at the place, it was moderately impressive and felt a bit 'secret'. Bloke told me some things which I half understood, but nice of him to give me the linguistic benefit of the doubt. He asked where I was from and I told him, he was from BA. Didn't take any photos, didn't feel sure it would be OK. They didn't ask for any money.

Feel a bit calmer somehow - maybe it was the spiritual atmosphere ;-) - but I am going to wander over to the cathedral on the offchance it's open, and then after I am going to have a beer. Shall pack as best as I can then go out about 9ish to Chopp Cordoba.

2127 At CC. Did go into Cathedral, nice ceiling. Didn't take any interior photos. Have packed. Expedia have confirmed the hotel in La Cumbre. River still fast flowing but if memory serves it is a lot lower than last time. Memory may not serve.

Cordoba, Wednesday

1314 At Veneto having bife de chorizo and chips. They do pizza here but sod it.

GMail app has probably lied about sending last few blog entries, fortunately I kept copies on phone. Should perhaps ask at reception if wifi working again.

Woke up about 12 (I hadn't set an alarm) and finallly got up about 1230ish.

1340 Not bad, if not astounding. Might stop for a coffee; I need to decide WTF I'm doing about La Cumbre/paragliding and a bit of time to read the guide book might help. The logistics of the thing seem difficult. There was some sort of tour company (who made no mention of paragliding in their street ad) just down the road and it may just be worth calling in on them. Failing that perhaps tourist information and/or have a look and see if I can book a hostel in La Cumbre online at some internet cafe. But I don't want to turn up and then find there's nothing available for the next 2-3 days.

(Could have asked about wifi at reception on way out but wanted to get out and get lunch.)

Were that not at issue/once it's as resolved as can be, vague plan is to wander down to the park just to the south of those art galleries I went to yesterday and wander round a bit, or maybe shove my head in at the door of the cathedral.

I can almost see myself ditching the paragliding. I am a bit scared but not too much, since I kind of know it's OK now. I would like to do it but at the same time it seems damned tricky to arrange.

Clocked up 142 mins walking yesterday, BTW.

1355 OK, just squatted at the table without coffee. Had a bit of a read and plans sort of forming in my mind. Will get bill and go look into stuff.

ARS62, 79 with tip. Didn't tell waiter what tip I wanted this time when proffering my 100 note, may be my imagination but I think he expected me to. (Have just left it on table.)

1455 OK, went to tourist information who just gave me a web site to look at. Came back to hostel (buying some water and pomelo drink on the way; it is fucking hot today), internet not working but might be in two hours. Will go out to an internet cafe shortly, just taking a moment to cool down with drink. Once I go to the net cafe will have a better idea where I stand and can hopefully take it easy for rest of day. Do need to know where I'm going soon though as need to book ahead for accommodation.

1520 Fuck me, don't really want to go out again but guess I can't lie around here all afternoon.

1602 Can't find a single fucking internet cafe. Going to give up, walk down to the park (it's too damn hot really, but still) and maybe one will magically turn up. Failing that maybe the hostel wifi will be working when I get back. Have to fight down the idea the staff ridicule and/or resent my very existence and not be put off. (It's weird. Don't always have this feeling.) Had enough of trying and failing to sort things out for now anyway. May in fact go have a beer; shall see what turns up.

1613 Fuck it. At Sorocabana, after somewhat lengthy discussion with waitress over sizes (I kind of didn't want to get a litre), getting a large chopp. (My Spanish is getting worse and worse. Going to have to take some sort of active steps about that when I get back to London.) Will walk down to park after. If push comes to shove may put off ongoing plans until tomorrow; I just have idea this may be a peak time and am worried about ho(s)tels being overly full. I suppose in principle I could even hand my key in tomorrow morning and say I might not be back and jump on a bus to La Cumbre or the other place (which I haven't mentioned in the blog yet, Men-something-ish), see if I can get a place to stay and a paragliding booking and if not return to Cordoba and my already-paid-for room the same day. Seems a bit silly in this modern telecommunications world but even given net access I expect I can't reliably book paragliding remotely (without phoning, which is hard, and I am *not* doing that in Spanish) and I also wonder if there will be any online-bookable hostels or hotels in either place. I guess I won't know until I can get on the fucking internet.

2024 Hostel wifi working. A-fucking-mazing.

After beer walked down to park, which seemed rather split up by roads, and there was some sort of free festivaly thing on, so I stood around watching some bloke sing to a pre-recorded backing track for half an hour or so. Then back to hostel for much needed shower. Have illicitly washed a few clothes in the sink.

Anyway, onward bound: fuck. OK, probably not that bad. La Cumbre is 'the' paragliding place (and it also has a statue of Cristo Redentor, apparently, which is a bit of a draw in a strange way) and is 2-3h from here by bus. Merlo is 6h from here, apparently has paragliding and is 2h closer to Mendoza by bus than Cordoba is. La Cumbre is possibly a 'dead end' and would require coming back here before going on. Not the end of the world and no worse than San Pedro de Atacama.

Anyway, hostelworld doesn't acknowledge the existence of either place. Guide book gives some places but one I e-mailed bounced back, most don't do proper online reservations, etc. Expedia has one in Merlo which is full and - I just checked - fiveish in La Cumbre, all but two of which are full and the cheapest of which is £51 a night. Now I am torn. £51 a night rankles when I think I paid less than that in BA. On the other hand if I turn up (it being peak season AFAIK and a weekend to boot) trying to wing it and have to give up (it's an acceptable accommodation risk as I could get an overnight bus from Cordoba to say Mendoza or Salta the same day) I am going to be annoyed.

No idea if I will be laughed out of the room for daring to turn up and hope to book a flight a day in advance at this time of year. The web site the guy at the tourist office gave me is not super helpful.

My inclination is to book for two nights and wing it on the paragliding booking. I could always seek out cheaper accomodation while I'm there on the spot if I do need to hang around and decide it's worth it. On the other hand, would be nice to know I was sorted, but I'd kind of rather choose who I fly with in person rather than just go with this web site on the basis of the tourist office. Guide book recommendation may count for something.

Fuck it, anything to get the damn business sorted. Gonna book the hotel now anyway. The statue of Cristo Redentor must be seen regardless.

2053 OK, booked. Just might see if I can pre-book paragliding eg by calling number from guide book tomorrow, but still. Something attempted, something done, has earned not just a night's repose but a few beers beforehand.

I guess this works out well in a sense. If I do have to splurge on a hotel (it didn't say anything about wifi, oh well) it's good for it to come between the relatively spartan accommodation of the hostel here and the hostel I will probably stay at in the next place, which is probably Salta or Mendoza. (I guess I shall be influenced in part by the buses, if any, available from La Cumbre...)

2150 At Pueblo Grande on Rouleau. Did actually go to next bar down as I happened to catch the tail end of a Smiths song but they didn't come and serve me (or anyone else; not like they were busy) for the duration of Crowded House's 'Fall At Your Feet' so I walked. Feel a little on view as I am at table in street and people sat on the raise step outside from of bar proper loom over me. Sod it.

Waiter had great difficulty with my Spanish here, suspect my pronunciation is at fault.

Oh, had email from expedia.They are 'processing' my booking so I guess it's not confirmed.

Bloke just put little begging slip on table asking for change and walked off. FFS. He just took it away.

If I don't start to feel more relaxed soon I might go elsewhere.

Keep meaning to observe that, unknown to me, the word 'playa' apparently can be used to refer to a car park as well as a beach. The town is plastered in signs which have made it hard not to infer this.

Woman asked me if this was where to get a collectivo when I was waiting to cross a street earlier. Semi-flattering in a way. I must have been a bit taken aback or otherwise distracted and pulling a funny sort of face, because when I turned round to answer (sorry, I'm a tourist, don't know) she almost jumped back. I don't think I'm *that* ugly...

Oh, GMail app had not in fact lost any of my e-mails, including Fridays draft blog entries. It seems to have merely switched somehow between the two different Google accounts I have on the phone. Which does suck, but less. Shan't repost the lost blog entry from the Friday but will mail it to myself for posterity.

Had a few street vendors/beggars come past but they are at least relatively unintrusive. A few presumably street dogs in the town, but not many. Didn't see (m)any(?) in BA.

If expedia don't come through on that hotel I will go to La Cumbre and wing it; as noted above, worst case is I have to ditch it and come back to Cordoba same day for an overnight bus onwards. I really do want to do the paragliding if I can; it seems less of a hassle now I have half a plan and I do remember thinking 'this is so fucking cool' when I did it in Iquique so I shouldn't pass up the chance to do it again. You can do a course to learn to do it yourself, which is sort of tempting but I probably won't go for that this time round. I suspect there would be the opportunity to take a similar course somewhere in Europe if I ever find myself with a spare week off (eg mandatory contract furlough). Not absolutely writing it off, but probably not just now. I also suspect insurance is tricky to locate, especially when you're already abroad, based on my investigation prior to doing it in Iquique. They may offer insurance themselves but it all just seems a little OTT.

In terms of onward trip, perhaps best not to go to Mendoza just yet, all other things being equal, as given plenty of time remaining, I would be likely to get sucked into Santiago's entertainment gravitational well instead of going elsewhere.

2237 Couple at next table just got a pizza. Sorely tempted myself. On walk back from Parque Sarmiento was tempted but everywhere was shut. But I am not quite in the mood for it somehow. I guess it will be something to entice myself out of bed with tomorrow morning.

2247 Fuck it, I always was weak. Ordered pizza and another litre. Waiter asked where I was from and I told him. Truly ashamed of my Spanish tonight, it's poor even by my standards. Still, I am getting by and that is the main thing I suppose.

Oh, there was/is a Falklands-themed metal sign poster thing in one of the streets near the plaza. I didn't feel like ostentatiously photographing it when I saw it earlier, but now I know where it is I shall know when I'm approaching it and take a snap with the zoom tomorrow.

2324 Pizza bloody huge, I assumed when I saw it was only ARS40 it would be modest. Have done my best and consumed all but a quarter of the thing (two slices). Maybe a bit less than a quarter left. I could force it down but why make myself sick, fat and miserable all at the same time? I would quite like to take the remainder home but shan't ask. Anyway, I shall now devote myself to my largely untouched second litre and then probably home. That big hit by Scissor Sisters playing now.

Pushing the pizza plate away now. This goes against the grain...

Oh, a very non-UK sort of pizza,  with essentially a single solid sheet of ham covering the entire surface. Very nice though.

Three people including two kids have now put the 'your change will support my family' begging slips on the table. If it's not all one family, the fact these are clearly standard, mass-produced slips takes what little emotive appeal they might have had away. 'I spent my last few coins on these pre-produced slips at the local printer's office.'

Maybe I should offer the next 'beggar' a slice of pizza. Hard to see how bar staff can object and if the greedy fucker takes both uninvited it's not really any skin off my nose.

2342 It seems oddly cool that a small moth has settled on the edge of the plate and appears to be feasting on a small crumb or nearby spot of grease. I rather like moths, while acknowledging the underside of the larger specimens can be a bit overly insectilely hideous. Damn butterflies get all the popular acclaim and they're just more fragile, gaudier moths. :-) You dig in mate.

Oh, what irony(ish). A street kid just dumped a gaudy packet of stickers on the plate and - fortunately - although scaring the moth off didn't squash it. I offered him pizza when he came back and he wasn't impressed.

Hmm, few spots of rain. Trust this isn't going to turn into a downpour.

Oh, passing the Iglesia de San Francisco on my walk down to the park and it being open I wandered in. I'm no architecture maven but a fairly impressive edifice all the same. Did my usual trick of standing in the doorway for a minute or two watching - and it's this aspect that always freaks me out in churches when they don't openly charge an admission fee - a couple of people praying and wondering if it would be out of order to go in. I then meandered down one side and back the other, not taking any photos, and finally snapped an interior view from the doorway. It was basically empty apart from those prayers, though one bloke stood in there might have been a tourist. I slipped a couple of pesos in what I took to be the votive candle collection box; I infer that's what it was as there was a packet of candles on top of it which I initially took for a packet of biscuits, and wondered why someone had donated a packet of biscuits.

0000 Bloke selling those wristband things came past a second time. I think he asked if he could take the pizza - the mini conversation was not super intelligible alas - and I told him he was welcome to it. Better than it going to waste.

86, 100 with tip. Didn't catch the 6 part and queried it (tho really 100 would be borderline acceptable had it been 89.99) and waiter came back in English.

0107 Just got back. No answer to bell at first. After five mins or so some other bloke turned up - oldish chap, but came in with me and staff knew him, not sure if he's guest or owner or what. Quite a few people still loitering inside and oddly - like that first afternoon - large contingent on terrace below my room all stood around very quietly obviously engaged in some kind of meeting the purpose of which eludes me. Still, all good. Oh, when they did answer the bell it took force and a half to open the door. If big bloke hadn't been there with me I would have questioned my strength.

Didn't quite finish that last beer; I guess the last one anywhere always seems a bit pointless. Decidedly not drunk but was rather bloated from the pizza, although not in an unsatisfactory way. Feeling oddly pleased with myself all of a sudden.

Uploading a few photos now and also moving towards bed. Hope not to be up too late but will probably not set an alarm or if I do it will be for midday or similar just so I don't spend the whole afternoon in bed without realising it.

Bed is v primitive here - just a sheet to cover the mattress and a sheet on top. Pillowcase is really a cylindrical tube which doesn't have anything to 'hold it' on the pillow. It's fine and mattress is comfortable enough but inevitably - perhaps because I had to make the bed myself but probably not - the sheet over the mattress rucks up while I'm sleeping. Not a big deal and it's so warm the single sheet on top is more than adequate. Left the ceiling fan on last night and seem to recall waking up in middle of night feeling cold and hearing it squeal madly, so turned it off and went back to sleep. Will probably leave it on low tonight and see how it goes. (There is actually an aircon unit in corner of room, but it's dead. Not really necessary either.)

I found the song I heard in the bar the other day - Vasos Vacios, by Los Fabulosos Cadillacs. I am listening to it now on the web and I am not sure this is the version I heard, but this is the song.

Have uploaded the photos now and I really should go to bed.

Cordoba, Wednesday

1314 At Veneto having bife de chorizo and chips. They do pizza here but sod it.

GMail app has probably lied about sending last few blog entries, fortunately I kept copies on phone. Should perhaps ask at reception if wifi working again.

Woke up about 12 (I hadn't set an alarm) and finallly got up about 1230ish.

1340 Not bad, if not astounding. Might stop for a coffee; I need to decide WTF I'm doing about La Cumbre/paragliding and a bit of time to read the guide book might help. The logistics of the thing seem difficult. There was some sort of tour company (who made no mention of paragliding in their street ad) just down the road and it may just be worth calling in on them. Failing that perhaps tourist information and/or have a look and see if I can book a hostel in La Cumbre online at some internet cafe. But I don't want to turn up and then find there's nothing available for the next 2-3 days.

(Could have asked about wifi at reception on way out but wanted to get out and get lunch.)

Were that not at issue/once it's as resolved as can be, vague plan is to wander down to the park just to the south of those art galleries I went to yesterday and wander round a bit, or maybe shove my head in at the door of the cathedral.

I can almost see myself ditching the paragliding. I am a bit scared but not too much, since I kind of know it's OK now. I would like to do it but at the same time it seems damned tricky to arrange.

Clocked up 142 mins walking yesterday, BTW.

1355 OK, just squatted at the table without coffee. Had a bit of a read and plans sort of forming in my mind. Will get bill and go look into stuff.

ARS62, 79 with tip. Didn't tell waiter what tip I wanted this time when proffering my 100 note, may be my imagination but I think he expected me to. (Have just left it on table.)

1455 OK, went to tourist information who just gave me a web site to look at. Came back to hostel (buying some water and pomelo drink on the way; it is fucking hot today), internet not working but might be in two hours. Will go out to an internet cafe shortly, just taking a moment to cool down with drink. Once I go to the net cafe will have a better idea where I stand and can hopefully take it easy for rest of day. Do need to know where I'm going soon though as need to book ahead for accommodation.

1520 Fuck me, don't really want to go out again but guess I can't lie around here all afternoon.

1602 Can't find a single fucking internet cafe. Going to give up, walk down to the park (it's too damn hot really, but still) and maybe one will magically turn up. Failing that maybe the hostel wifi will be working when I get back. Have to fight down the idea the staff ridicule and/or resent my very existence and not be put off. (It's weird. Don't always have this feeling.) Had enough of trying and failing to sort things out for now anyway. May in fact go have a beer; shall see what turns up.

1613 Fuck it. At Sorocabana, after somewhat lengthy discussion with waitress over sizes (I kind of didn't want to get a litre), getting a large chopp. (My Spanish is getting worse and worse. Going to have to take some sort of active steps about that when I get back to London.) Will walk down to park after. If push comes to shove may put off ongoing plans until tomorrow; I just have idea this may be a peak time and am worried about ho(s)tels being overly full. I suppose in principle I could even hand my key in tomorrow morning and say I might not be back and jump on a bus to La Cumbre or the other place (which I haven't mentioned in the blog yet, Men-something-ish), see if I can get a place to stay and a paragliding booking and if not return to Cordoba and my already-paid-for room the same day. Seems a bit silly in this modern telecommunications world but even given net access I expect I can't reliably book paragliding remotely (without phoning, which is hard, and I am *not* doing that in Spanish) and I also wonder if there will be any online-bookable hostels or hotels in either place. I guess I won't know until I can get on the fucking internet.

2024 Hostel wifi working. A-fucking-mazing.

After beer walked down to park, which seemed rather split up by roads, and there was some sort of free festivaly thing on, so I stood around watching some bloke sing to a pre-recorded backing track for half an hour or so. Then back to hostel for much needed shower. Have illicitly washed a few clothes in the sink.

Anyway, onward bound: fuck. OK, probably not that bad. La Cumbre is 'the' paragliding place (and it also has a statue of Cristo Redentor, apparently, which is a bit of a draw in a strange way) and is 2-3h from here by bus. Merlo is 6h from here, apparently has paragliding and is 2h closer to Mendoza by bus than Cordoba is. La Cumbre is possibly a 'dead end' and would require coming back here before going on. Not the end of the world and no worse than San Pedro de Atacama.

Anyway, hostelworld doesn't acknowledge the existence of either place. Guide book gives some places but one I e-mailed bounced back, most don't do proper online reservations, etc. Expedia has one in Merlo which is full and - I just checked - fiveish in La Cumbre, all but two of which are full and the cheapest of which is £51 a night. Now I am torn. £51 a night rankles when I think I paid less than that in BA. On the other hand if I turn up (it being peak season AFAIK and a weekend to boot) trying to wing it and have to give up (it's an acceptable accommodation risk as I could get an overnight bus from Cordoba to say Mendoza or Salta the same day) I am going to be annoyed.

No idea if I will be laughed out of the room for daring to turn up and hope to book a flight a day in advance at this time of year. The web site the guy at the tourist office gave me is not super helpful.

My inclination is to book for two nights and wing it on the paragliding booking. I could always seek out cheaper accomodation while I'm there on the spot if I do need to hang around and decide it's worth it. On the other hand, would be nice to know I was sorted, but I'd kind of rather choose who I fly with in person rather than just go with this web site on the basis of the tourist office. Guide book recommendation may count for something.

Fuck it, anything to get the damn business sorted. Gonna book the hotel now anyway. The statue of Cristo Redentor must be seen regardless.

2053 OK, booked. Just might see if I can pre-book paragliding eg by calling number from guide book tomorrow, but still. Something attempted, something done, has earned not just a night's repose but a few beers beforehand.

I guess this works out well in a sense. If I do have to splurge on a hotel (it didn't say anything about wifi, oh well) it's good for it to come between the relatively spartan accommodation of the hostel here and the hostel I will probably stay at in the next place, which is probably Salta or Mendoza. (I guess I shall be influenced in part by the buses, if any, available from La Cumbre...)

2150 At Pueblo Grande on Rouleau. Did actually go to next bar down as I happened to catch the tail end of a Smiths song but they didn't come and serve me (or anyone else; not like they were busy) for the duration of Crowded House's 'Fall At Your Feet' so I walked. Feel a little on view as I am at table in street and people sat on the raise step outside from of bar proper loom over me. Sod it.

Waiter had great difficulty with my Spanish here, suspect my pronunciation is at fault.

Oh, had email from expedia. They are 'processing' my booking so I guess it's not confirmed.

Bloke just put little begging slip on table asking for change and walked off. FFS. He just took it away.

If I don't start to feel more relaxed soon I might go elsewhere.

Keep meaning to observe that, unknown to me, the word 'playa' apparently can be used to refer to a car park as well as a beach. The town is plastered in signs which have made it hard not to infer this.

Woman asked me if this was where to get a collectivo when I was waiting to cross a street earlier. Semi-flattering in a way. I must have been a bit taken aback or otherwise distracted and pulling a funny sort of face, because when I turned round to answer (sorry, I'm a tourist, don't know) she almost jumped back. I don't think I'm *that* ugly...

Oh, GMail app had not in fact lost any of my e-mails, including Fridays draft blog entries. It seems to have merely switched somehow between the two different Google accounts I have on the phone. Which does suck, but less. Shan't repost the lost blog entry from the Friday but will mail it to myself for posterity.

Had a few street vendors/beggars come past but they are at least relatively unintrusive. A few presumably street dogs in the town, but not many. Didn't see (m)any(?) in BA.

If expedia don't come through on that hotel I will go to La Cumbre and wing it; as noted above, worst case is I have to ditch it and come back to Cordoba same day for an overnight bus onwards. I really do want to do the paragliding if I can; it seems less of a hassle now I have half a plan and I do remember thinking 'this is so cool' when I did it in Iquique so I shouldn't pass up the chance to do it again. You can do a course to learn to do it yourself, which is sort of tempting but I probably won't go for that this time round. I suspect there would be the opportunity to take a similar course somewhere in Europe if I ever find myself with a spare week off (eg mandatory contract furlough). Not absolutely writing it off, but probably not just now. I also suspect insurance is tricky to locate, especially when you're already abroad, based on my investigation prior to doing it in Iquique. They may offer insurance themselves but it all just seems a little OTT.

In terms of onward trip, perhaps best not to go to Mendoza just yet, all other things being equal, as given plenty of time remaining, I would be likely to get sucked into Santiago's entertainment gravitational well instead of going elsewhere.

2237 Couple at next table just got a pizza. Sorely tempted myself. On walk back from Parque Sarmiento was tempted but everywhere was shut. But I am not quite in the mood for it somehow. I guess it will be something to entice myself out of bed with tomorrow morning.

2247 Fuck it, I always was weak. Ordered pizza and another litre. Waiter asked where I was from and I told him. Truly ashamed of my Spanish tonight, it's poor even by my standards. Still, I am getting by and that is the main thing I suppose.

Oh, there was/is a Falklands-themed metal sign poster thing in one of the streets near the plaza. I didn't feel like ostentatiously photographing it when I saw it earlier, but now I know where it is I shall know when I'm approaching it and take a snap with the zoom tomorrow.

2324 Pizza bloody huge, I assumed when I saw it was only ARS40 it would be modest. Have done my best and consumed all but a quarter of the thing (two slices). Maybe a bit less than a quarter left. I could force it down but why make myself sick, fat and miserable all at the same time? I would quite like to take the remainder home but shan't ask. Anyway, I shall now devote myself to my largely untouched second litre and then probably home. That big hit by Scissor Sisters playing now.

Pushing the pizza plate away now. This goes against the grain...

Oh, a very non-UK sort of pizza,  with essentially a single solid sheet of ham covering the entire surface. Very nice though.

Three people including two kids have now put the 'your change will support my family' begging slips on the table. If it's not all one family, the fact these are clearly standard, mass-produced slips takes what little emotive appeal they might have had away. 'I spent my last few coins on these pre-produced slips at the local printer's office.'

Maybe I should offer the next 'beggar' a slice of pizza. Hard to see how bar staff can object and if the greedy fucker takes both uninvited it's not really any skin off my nose.

2342 It seems oddly cool that a small moth has settled on the edge of the plate and appears to be feasting on a small crumb or nearby spot of grease. I rather like moths, while acknowledging the underside of the larger specimens can be a bit overly insectilely hideous. Damn butterflies get all the popular acclaim and they're just more fragile, gaudier moths. :-) You dig in mate.

Oh, what irony(ish). A street kid just dumped a gaudy packet of stickers on the plate and - fortunately - although scaring the moth off didn't squash it. I offered him pizza when he came back and he wasn't impressed.

Hmm, few spots of rain. Trust this isn't going to turn into a downpour.

Oh, passing the Iglesia de San Francisco on my walk down to the park and it being open I wandered in. I'm no architecture maven but a fairly impressive edifice all the same. Did my usual trick of standing in the doorway for a minute or two watching - and it's this aspect that always freaks me out in churches when they don't openly charge an admission fee - a couple of people praying and wondering if it would be out of order to go in. I then meandered down one side and back the other, not taking any photos, and finally snapped an interior view from the doorway. It was basically empty apart from those prayers, though one bloke stood in there might have been a tourist. I slipped a couple of pesos in what I took to be the votive candle collection box; I infer that's what it was as there was a packet of candles on top of it which I initially took for a packet of biscuits, and wondered why someone had donated a packet of biscuits.

0000 Bloke selling those wristband things came past a second time. I think he asked if he could take the pizza - the mini conversation was not super intelligible alas - and I told him he was welcome to it. Better than it going to waste.

86, 100 with tip. Didn't catch the 6 part and queried it (tho really 100 would be borderline acceptable had it been 89.99) and waiter came back in English.

0107 Just got back. No answer to bell at first. After five mins or so some other bloke turned up - oldish chap, but came in with me and staff knew him, not sure if he's guest or owner or what. Quite a few people still loitering inside and oddly - like that first afternoon - large contingent on terrace below my room all stood around very quietly obviously engaged in some kind of meeting the purpose of which eludes me. Still, all good. Oh, when they did answer the bell it took force and a half to open the door. If big bloke hadn't been there with me I would have questioned my strength.

Didn't quite finish that last beer; I guess the last one anywhere always seems a bit pointless. Decidedly not drunk but was rather bloated from the pizza, although not in an unsatisfactory way. Feeling oddly pleased with myself all of a sudden.

Uploading a few photos now and also moving towards bed. Hope not to be up too late but will probably not set an alarm or if I do it will be for midday or similar just so I don't spend the whole afternoon in bed without realising it.

Bed is v primitive here - just a sheet to cover the mattress and a sheet on top. Pillowcase is really a cylindrical tube which doesn't have anything to 'hold it' on the pillow. It's fine and mattress is comfortable enough but inevitably - perhaps because I had to make the bed myself but probably not - the sheet over the mattress rucks up while I'm sleeping. Not a big deal and it's so warm the single sheet on top is more than adequate. Left the ceiling fan on last night and seem to recall waking up in middle of night feeling cold and hearing it squeal madly, so turned it off and went back to sleep. Will probably leave it on low tonight and see how it goes. (There is actually an aircon unit in corner of room, but it's dead. Not really necessary either.)

I found the song I heard in the bar the other day - Vasos Vacios, by Los Fabulosos Cadillacs. I am listening to it now on the web and I am not sure this is the version I heard, but this is the song.

Have uploaded the photos now and I really should go to bed.

Oh, the ceiling fan is periodically making a noise which is horribly suggestive of someone hiccuping prior to vomiting. And no, it's not me.

Cordoba, Tuesday

0844 At terminal in Cordoba. Didn't sleep too badly. Getting luggage off bus, was struck once again by absolute lack of any sense of queuing. Despite me being near front of line I was last to get my bag off cos the fuckers behind me kept clamouring for attention and I was too reticent and/or linguistically challenged to push forward. Not in a rush so didn't care. BUT THE LUGGAGE CHAP THEN ASKED ME FOR A TIP IN BOTH SPANISH AND ENGLISH. I didn't see anyone else give him anything - and I had plenty of chance to watch, after all - unless it was amazingly discreet. I stood there stunned for a second or two and said no and walked off. Cunt. If you're going to try it on you shouldn't give me a chance to see the protocol doesn't involve tipping. Fuckwit.

0930 Walking to hostel. GMail app decided to hide the email with directions in all of a sudden but they sucked anyway so using map in electronic guide book. Stopped off at cafe for coffee because I had a sudden whim to do it and it feels slightly decadent and holidayish.

Place seems quite nice from first impressions. Shall just have to be careful not to leave on a bus from same company I came in on, if possible. ;-)

This is a bit silly as I might well have been able to get breakfast for free at the hostel but sod it. It's not really about the money and if it is, I can offset this against the cab fare I'm saving. At least here I was able to check they'll break a 100 before incurring any charges.

This place is Sorocabana, corner of Buenos Aires and San Jeronimo. Quite a nice little plaza just here. Weather a bit grey but pleasantly cool.

I've been given about eight paper sugar sachets on the saucer. Am I really expected to use that many?

Bag is really slightly too heavy to be lugging around streets in comfort but it is doable and it's not that hot, presumably because it's still early.

Oh, did manage to clock up 113 mins walking yesterday, which isn't too bad given the circumstances.

Tempted to have another coffee actually.

1005 Yeah, why not? Livin' it large or what? Partay!

Map shows this is Plaza San Martin, which is basically the town centre.

Paid as well, ARS23 for the two, 30 with tip. Possibly still overdoing it on the tips but not sure. Offset it against the tip I didn't give the luggage handling chappie. ;-) Advice I was given in Chile in November seemed to boil down to '10% unless the amount would be patronisingly small', so maybe I'm doing OK on those grounds.

Waiter called me caballero. I should maybe start trying to substitute that for señor but I wonder if it might still be overly formal or weird coming from me.

Did wake up in middle of night on bus with weirdly disturbing thoughts though at least they weren't work related. Was half asleep for last 60 mins or so and kind of didn't want to arrive as was feeling semi-comfortable.

Battery at 26% but should easily see me to hostel.

1104 Checked in OK. Wifi is currently broken according to bloke at reception. Otherwise fine tho hostel is absolutely heaving with SYTs; I should expect that but it's still intimidating and I guess I've lost whatever acclimatisation I might have developed in November. Have put phone on charge, shall see if I can persuade it to connect to mobile network so I can post yesterday's blog and send a couple of e-mails then shall have much-needed shower and out for lunch and a wander.

Music blaring at reception a little intimidatingly but the guy did put La Camisa Negra on which was oddly reassuring.

FFS, as on bus and at cafe earlier phone has good signal but refuses to show any signs of connecting to data network, despite me rebooting it just now. Not the end of the world but annoying especially given lack of wifi.

1134 OK, tried manually choosing different mobile networks and wasn't allowed to connect, but the act of reconnecting to movistar (the one it had already picked automatically) somehow made GSM data work. No idea why that worked when a reboot didn't. So have dribbled out a few e-mails and will now proceed to the shower. Not rushing as such as I want to give the phone time to charge up before I go out.

1252 Left ten mins ago, at small restaurant getting entrecotte grille (steak, I assume from photo) with chips. Predictable.

Only got a single 100 note (plus emergency inconvenient reserve in waist belt which don't want to touch) but should be fine.

My room is at back of hostel. Oddly just before I left 90% of the SYTs arrived on the otherwise deserted terrace outside my room and (very quietly) seemed to be taking part in some kind of activity. It was so non-boisterous and I have no idea WTF it was. I wended my way through them feeling a bit like I was intruding in a lesson. I say 90% as a few were still sprawling around nearer reception. Judging from that group most of the SYTs here are Spanish speaking, which shouldn't surprise me but does.

Oh, now I'm not there (tho can't see it would matter) I will say I was at Apart Lima 265 in Buenos Aires. Would stay there again tho may try different location or the aparthotel I stayed at on my first visit when I am back in a couple of weeks.

Managed to take an impressively large chunk out of the base of my nose while shaving. Definitely need to buy a new razor...

1318 Steak a bit fatty and nothing astounding but perfectly acceptable. Felt slight twinge of toothache while eating some bread; it has not recurred since so I hope it's nothing but I am naturally worried it's not.

Shall get the bill then go for a wander, calling in at a cash machine on the way.

1332 Fuck me that twinge of toothache has disturbed me. Keep waiting for it to come back.

Read bit of guidebook while sat here.

ARS47, 57 with tip. Will continue guidebook observation later, off now.

1743 Having wandered extensively I am at a sort of bar somewhere near the plaza having a much-needed beer.

I suddenly realised it was Tuesday not Monday and hence all the museums etc were not in fact shut. More for the hell of it that anything else walked down towards some art gallery to south of centre. Think I actually went in another one first. The one I went in was  Museo de Bellas Artes Evita - Palacio Ferreyra. They let me in free because of some reason I didn't catch, but I actually liked it so much I made sure I paid on leaving. That cost 10 or 15 with entry to Museo Emilio Caraffa, which I think was where I had originally been going. That was OK if not generally astounding.

Some good stuff at Ferreyra even though I was really just there to kill time. Some works about the dictatorship (Carlos Alonso, Manos anónimas) which I feel unable to avoid describing as 'powerful', trite though it may be, and some stuff by Dante Montich on the theme "Objetos de ansiedad" which just struck a bit of a chord. Building was pretty impressive in its own right too.

Oh, this place is La Tasca del Paseo.

With respect to the paragliding, I would have come here anyway but now I actually read the guide book that is at El (La?) Cumbre, 2.5h away by bus or 2h by minibus. I don't know if I want to go and stay there a night or two in order to try for it. Ideally some company here in Cordoba would offer an excursion but the guide book doesn't seem to mention one. Maybe need to look into that tomorrow. Even had it been local, I didn't plan to book today as I want (and wanted) to be able to wake up tomorrow morning when it suits me without any pressure, not to mention allowing me to gain some confidence my bowels are behaving themselves again before committing myself.

Vaguely tempted to get another beer now but I don't want to be hanging around in my room all night, especially without any wifi, so I shall go back after this then come back out in a couple of hours. Vague plan is not to go to bed too late, despite it being OKish on the bus I suspect a decent night's sleep wouldn't go amiss.

Some song playing I recognise but don't know name. 'Siempre brazos... Nuestro... Por el rio...' No, that's not right. Still. Think I heard it in Chile in November. May try a web search on those scanty terms if/when I get access conveniently again.

ARS22 for this litre, 30 with tip.

1852 Off we go.

2046 Toying with going out about 9. Frankly I suspect it's too early but I can never quite bring myself to believe that. Also suspect I am not going to find anywhere particularly great - not an Argentinian thing, look at Iquique in Chile for example, I never found a bar I liked there - but anything will do. Maybe tomorrow I shall try later.

Do wonder, February being summer here, if this place is perhaps deader than usual as all the students will be away. Fuck knows, pure speculation on my part.

2118 At Chopp Cordoba down by the - very fast flowing - river. Walked past here this pm and it was shut. Black & white cat wandering round, strange buzz (literally) in the air, moths flitting around the lights illuminating the river fooling this tourist into thinking they were fireflies at first, waiter semi-ignoring me, Robbie Williams playing and probably Dengue Fever-carrying mosquitos around. (Though surely the river is too fast for them to breed.) Just ordered 'pint' (600ml, but they call it 'pinta') rubia Cordoba, the cheapest by volume beer on the menu. Pleasantly busy without being heaving. Clientele probably a bit older than me on average.

This is OK actually. Worth threading my way past the throng of SYTs on the way out of the hostel, and being oddly entrapped by the swing door at the top of the street stairs despite being sober.

Think waiter just said 'thank you, sir' when he finally brought my beer (unexceptional but acceptable if very fizzy lager). I shall continue in Spanish, insofar as it matters when you are just reciting beer names from the menu. It is in a pint glass, to the eye at least, though if it truly is 600ml it must be an oversized one.

And the cat just let me stroke it, albeit somewhat skittishly.

2202 Wow, two cats, there's also a less nervous kitteny browny ginger (hard to tell in this light) one. Ooh, ooh, can I use the word 'pardo' here? Though ISTR someone told me it meant green, I am sure my dictionary disagreed.

All the music here seems to be 80s/90s (my knowledge is imperfect) English language. Maybe that suits the clientele.

2213 Seem to have won the black and white cat over, it's much less nervy with me now.

2243 No Doubt (?)'s "Don't Speak" now. English language 80s/90s continues apace. OK by me, really.

2249 Just used bog. This whole place has a *slightly* classy vibe (in a middle aged, middle class way) which, since it's not arsey, is fine by me. But there is a note on the hand towel dispenser which is rather strident about using only one towel. One is sufficient! Don't use two! It is printed properly rather than handwritten but it seems a little out of place. I guess if you spin it as concern for mother Earth rather than pennypinching it fits but still. Had it been anything except screen printed on the dispenser I would have felt it totally out of place.

We just had something in Spanish which sounded 80s/90s English language. Jamiroquai now, Space Cowboy or whatever. Never liked this song.

Don't get me wrong, something like Duna Classic Rock Bar in La Serena would also go down a treat, but since I expected to end up in a slightly dull bar near Plaza San Martin this is good, and in its own way it suits me. Running water to stare soulfully at counts for a lot too. ;-)

Oh, the (literal) buzz has gone and come back and is now intermittent. I assume it is some insect, though I could swear one source was nearby on the ground while I was stroking one of the cats and I couldn't see a thing. But shall assume it is crickets or whatever.

2300 Keane's "Can't stop now" playing. Must admit I like this.

Weather tonight is perfect for sitting outside, BTW. Hot and *sunny* today in a way it wasn't in BA, though I think it might have been less humid as it was a lot more tolerable.

At the risk of jinxing things - and I am not looking forward to returning to the hostel, drunk or sober - this is the first time in the trip (and I know it's early days, but it is my fourth night) I've actually felt unambiguously I'd rather be here than back home. Maybe I should say 'first night', but maybe not. The coffee this morning was quite cool but not great; I think it was more a slight resonance with my first morning in Oaxaca in 2010.

2341 Just ordered another, which will be four pints here. Feeling sort of drunk, which is a bit odd, but I sometimes seem to get this abroad. Yes there was the litre earlier, but so much earlier it must have been metabolized by now. I don't feel drunk drunk, just aware I have had a few. Do hate having to ask for entrance to hostels in any kind of drunk state (just had Somewhere Only We Know), I always feel the staff on door duty look down on it when you're a solo guest. It's a bit the same in hotels, and to be fair is yet another plus of the serviced apartment where you waltz in unattended. Still, why should I care what some wanker on hostel reception 7000 miles from home thinks? (Especially when he sees fit to perform his duties shirtless despite an incipient beer gut.) The thing at hostels though is that I don't want to wend my way through throngs of SYTs pissed. (And there are lashings of stairs too.) But then again, I'm not really pissed anyway (far from it), and why the fuck aren't they out clubbing if they're such SYTs? I suppose here they are probably waiting til 2am when things kick off, apparently.

If that 2am business is true - and I guess it must be - it freaks me out. I've always been a night person and depending on the local culture I could understand the nightlife kicking off at 11pm or so so people can go home/out for dinner first. But 2am seems to be taking it too far, to me.

Fuck, we're down to three tables occupied including me. Tis cool really, not going to have another given the above - if I do get hailed by SYTs at hostel I want to be reasonably compos mentis - but still.

0005 Just been for a piss and I can still walk straight (which should be no surprise, but sort of isn't). I expect to feel like I've had eight pints and four tequilas when I beg for admission to the hostel but still. Just asked for bill. 70 something and made it 100 with tip, toyed with calling it 90 but fuck it. Will probably be back here Wed or Thu so keep 'em sweet. Still worry my tipping is linguistically gross but I'm blatantly foreign and the money should salve any remaining hurt.

I hate being worried about the alcohol. In London I'd drink this much without batting an eyelid or giving it a second thought. Guess it shows the power of circumstances.

Actually left most of last pint, just couldn't see the point if I'd started to worry about being drunk, rightly or wrongly. Hostel street door was actually open so no problems getting in.