Buenos Aires, Sunday

1416 At small cafe near bus terminal. Low on cash following ticket purchase but getting steak, egg and chips for ARS34 plus whatever they charge me for a diet coke and the tip. I have about 80 plus absolute emrgency reserve in belt. Need to find cash machine but didn't want to pass this acceptable cheap lunch up.

Woke up about 10.30 and a couple of times before feeling a bit shit with hazy ideas of a problem at work (a problem which right now I am not sure if did or does ever exist). Did a brief bit of research and am going to Cordoba next. Booked single room shared bathroom for Tue-Thu nights from hotel here and walked over to bus terminal to buy a ticket on assumption I could get overnight bus - I could, ARS285 leaving 2340 and arriving about 9am. Weather decidedly cooler today. Felt amazingly better when I left the hotel about 1230 and got outside, I had been feeling a bit rough before.

No major plans for this afternoon; may vaguely follow the walking tour suggested in guide book unless/until something distracts me. Do want to use a cash machine before dark but sure will encounter one somewhere en route.

You can apparently do paragliding in Cordoba so I need to call Trailfinders sometime soon (not today, Sunday, obviously) to see if they are going to charge me an extra £15 for that again.

Place is La Torre.

1519 Starting to spit. Just wd more cash. In little shopping arcade off Av Florida - definitely been down there before - bumped into some young woman (like, maybe 16). Very much mutual if not her fault. I said 'disculpe' and she very brassily said 'esta bien', then as she walked off said 'disculp*a*'. Fuck knows exactly what her point was, writing this down so I can ask Z later.

1550 Missed turn off for Libertad and walked a bit further than should have. No big deal, turned back down Viamonte and decided to stop for a coffee at some cafe on there. Pedometer says already done 62mins walking (including hotel to bus terminal) which isn't too shabby. Not really too fussed about where I go this afternoon, just want to walk around and see the place. I should probably try to go into a museum or gallery or something but sod it.

Area round bus terminal was familiar, I recall that the hotel I stayed in the first time I was here was round there. It's rather run down near the terminal but as you cross one road it gets much nicer.

Will see if hotel will guard my bag tomorrow when I check out, if not will have to try left luggage at bus terminal. Latter feels a bit risky but would unquestionably be more convenient. Did see some lockers there at terminal but they were nearly all full and while the operating instructions seemed clear-ish it wasn't entirely obvious how you paid, except for some mention of a shop nearby (but it looked like the lockers functioned without cash, so not sure how they enforce that you pay). I think there is a proper left luggage area though, which may be less disturbing if I am sure it will be open at 2300 tomorrow night.

Waitress said something incomprehensible as she brought coffee, I think it might have been about waving through the window when I want the bill but far from sure. I should have asked her to repeat herself, I am far too bad about doing that.

Rain hasn't got above spitting so far and been no problem to be walking about. I am under a canopy here anyway.

Coffee came with glass of lightly carbonated water. Not sure what the protocol is (before? During? After?) but this rings a bit of a bell.

I'm no connosieur but it's not bad coffee anyway. (Just ordered coffee with milk, and have put a bit of sugar in.)

1609 Finished coffee, think I will have a diet coke and then go. The water was very welcome, I think I am in the mood for something cold but better stay off the beer.

Am thinking two nights here is a bit short, I haven't really managed to relax yet, but it's probably smart I didn't book for longer as I will probably have a 2-3 day buffer here at the end of the trip anyway. I hope, if I don't get too wound up about the paragliding, I will be able to chill out a bit more in Cordoba. It's a bit smaller and probably easier to find somewhere good to go in the evenings; here it's probably hard to find the right places - I certainly remember that being the case last time.

Musing about it, I think the work issue I was drowsily worried about at 5am a) never actually existed but b) had previously been invented my my subconscious one morning last week. I hope my subconscious relaxes a bit soon...

Plan for tonight is as yesterday, except more so given I have to check out at 11. I intend to wash some clothes back at the hotel before going out tonight and fingers crossed they will be dry enough by morning. I won't be able to do any washing with the shared bathroom in Cordoba so be good to replenish my stock of clean clothes in anticipation.

I do keep getting these weird intermittent pains in my guts but I am putting it down to 'stress' and/or hunger as appropriate. It's not like I've never had them in London either though not that much recently.

Feel I should write something else but can't think of anything. Do need to relax a bit and not get too hung up on making best use of my time.

1623 Just ordered Pepsi light and the bill. Phone says sunset is 1944 so plenty of time to complete my half-hearted walk from the guide book. I have most of a 2.5l bottle of diet coke in the fridge at home which will be something to look forward to.

ARS28 for the two, of which 12 for a can of Pepsi Light. Calling it 32 with tip.

2149 Fuck me, this is wrist-slittingly depressing. Got back to hotel 6-630. Left about 9 to walk over to Reconquista, cos there were some bars here on my previous visit. Nothing amazing on way over.

It's dead as fuck. First place I tried said they were closing. Kilkenny open but could hardly believe it - deserted and dingy - and upstairs closed. Asked some wanker if it was open as I went in and he was leaving and he mimicked me when he said it was. OK, so I called him senor and probably shouldn't have. But what a cunt.

Sat at some other bar/restaurant with a few people outside. Ordered a schopp like five minutes ago and no sign of it yet. Waiter gave me a menu and I wonder if I have to eat. I am not going to. Might give it til 2200 and walk if there's no sign of my order. I nearly decided to go back home after leaving Kilkenny (it's like a 30 min walk over here) but then sat here when I saw a sign advertising schopp. Oh, this place is El  Salmon II.

OK, bloke just brought me 750ml schopp and big bowl of peanuts and didn't get upset when I didn't want anything else. I know it's 750ml cos menu says so; it also says it's Quilmes.

Have a shit table half in the street but didn't want to sit too near anyone.

On my walk this afternoon did see Jack the Ripper Bar which was closed but opened from 10 (I assume pm, given it was shut) Sat & Sun. So maybe this is just too early but fuck knows. Not going to be questing for anything better, given I've been feeling a little rough and I have to check out by 11 and I have a slightly demanding day ahead with the overnight bus. 2/3 through this first beer, will have one more if they're not closing and probably call it a night, unless I decide to walk back and see anything unusually tempting en route.

2218 Just about finished this beer. Feel incredibly unwelcome, nothing to do with being British (no one knows), it's just this wrist-slitting atmosphere. A moderately large group did just turn up and sit down and are being served so they're clearly not closing yet.

2222 Just ordered by gesture from waitress stood on guard in doorway. Felt bad about disturbing her - dunno what it is tonight - but she's gone to get me another I think. Yes.

I am sure it's either just too early or I am in the wrong place, but I could be having a damn sight more fun at the live Irish music night down at the Greyhound in Oval right now (assuming it's still on; not been since I moved out in 2010). I seem to think I was on Reconquista like this on my previous visit. Obviously sometimes it is dead, but it's not that obvious where else to go. This is hardly the stereotypical Buenos Aires...

2315 Nearly finished second beer. Just signed for the bill. Tempted to have one more but seems foolish to push it when I am still feeling a bit rough. Might as well enjoy my relatively luxurious bed while I have it. Fingers crossed shall feel better tomorrow and then maybe I can enjoy myself in good health in Cordoba from Tuesday. Will get taxi back if I can.

2321 Just got bill verbally. 40 but paid with 100 to ensure have change for taxi and said 50 with tip.

2330 Entertaining cynical doubts as to whether I shall get that change. But given the massive delay in getting the first beer I shall just wait. Never actually been ripped off like that yet. First time for everything of course. I am obviously not pissed either (2x750ml) so that ought to count for something. Fuck me, just want to go home.

FWIW waitress is bringing what look like pizzas to some table so they clearly don't shut too early. Some people been sat outside Kilkenny all this time tho it is still showing no lights from inside.

Didn't (and don't) have a smaller note as it turns out, so couldn't have avoided this. Am sure it will be OK.

2337 Just got change in a combination of limp small denomination bills. All good, handy for taxi. Let's go and fingers crossed.

2350 OK, that was easy. Got taxi in street and it was even a radio taxi, which is supposedly safest. Driver understood my request, wasn't chatty and it was pleasantly cool in both senses peering out of the open back window. Went past Trinity or Temple, an Irish bar I may have visited before, which looked borderline open and acceptable, but despite quite a lot of traffic didn't seem like many place were open/busy. No seatbelts of course. ;-) ARS22.xx on meter and I made it 27 with tip. To bed shortly and fingers crossed I feel more together mentally and - the main issue today - physically tomorrow.