Thursday, 27 February 2025

El Chiflon-San Cristobal

Wed 1133 Sitting in the room, almost ready to check out just milking the last little bit of private roomness and whatever. For what it's worth, I guess I've probably been within the sound of running water constantly for about 25 hours now, 26, whatever. Not absolutely sure you can hear the water when you're up at the restaurant, but you probably can. Anyway, just for what it's worth.

Didn't sleep brilliantly, not too badly. I left the cabin about 8.20 and went for a walk up to as far as the bridal veil fall. I was vaguely tempted to push it and try and do the lot but it was perhaps actually a bit of a psychological win. I resisted that temptation because I knew I'd just get hot and sweaty and I'd be rushed and I'd be worried about missing the checkout and so forth.

It was pretty cool to have the falls more or less to myself. There were a few staff like the zip lining guys carrying helmets and harnesses up to the stations and stuff, but I don't think there were any other guests. So I basically had the falls to myself. Actually, on the way back I think there was one couple at one of the lower falls, but like I had the bridal veil basically to myself.

I actually thought a little bit too inside the box. The park opens at 8, so I'd naively been assuming that I couldn't go on the trail till 8. In hindsight, not that I'm too gutted. Nothing at all would have stopped me, say, leaving the room, the cabin at 7, and walking up the trail then, which would have given me a bit more time to do all the falls. It's fine. It is quite a long walk. It's not absolutely epic, but it is a fair old effort. I might still have been a bit worried about the time and I might not have had time for a shower when I got back and then I'd have been sweaty on the buses and stuff. Anyway, it's fine. There are two four meter pools and the seven meter pool in depth that is. I am kind of thinking it's not deathbed regret stuff but maybe in a year or two if by then I'm a better swimmer it would be cool to come back and probably stay overnight again and maybe swimming at least one of those deep pools or something like that it's not just the depth remember there's also the current it's probably not too bad but you know one thing another definitely didn't want to push it yesterday

I had a shower this morning, the spider was still there, and it had been there, of course, when I went for a piss at some point in the night. By the time I got back from my walk, you know, half an hour ago, when I started packing up and stuff, it had gone. I can't see it anymore, but anyway.

I tried to appreciate the falls and the walk and the river as I was going and be present. It's really difficult but that's nothing new, just something to keep working on I guess. It was pretty cool, got the spray from the falls and stuff like that all to myself and it was quite nice and maybe slightly different effects with the sun being a different position too yesterday.

I don't think I remember to say yesterday that there's a sort of black and gold ants wandering around sometimes. They're mostly solitary. Sometimes they just look yellow, but I think it is actually fair to say that they really do have a gold kind of colour. They're quite attractive in a way. I do have some bad photo and video of them, but it was really difficult to take any.

Without really rushing by the time I'd done the three falls and come back, it was probably about quarter past ten and I'd been thinking and I thought I'd go to the restaurant and I had the same as I had yesterday. It was actually quite good, a little bit early to eat, but that way it takes the pressure off for the rest of the day, not saying I won't eat in San Crist, especially given what I'm about to say about my plans, but you know, it takes the pressure off certainly.

So I ate. I broke another 500. I've perhaps been over-breaking them. I really maybe need to slow down, otherwise I'm going to be carrying too many small bills. Anyway, after that I went down to the iguana place quickly. I couldn't actually see any iguanas in the undergrowth. Maybe they come out later, not a big deal. So then I came back to the room. That was maybe about 1115. And I packed and so forth. I'm leaving a couple of smallish water bottles, disposable ones that I've been carrying around since I left home. And I've thrown away some cardboard packaging for some of the medicines I bought in St. Chris. I've snapped photos of them just in case. But it's just throat tablets and suero.

Bits had to be leaving but better than being rrlieved blah blah blah

I've been thinking and although I kind of don't want to, I think partly just because I don't like tours and partly because I already paid once and partly because I'm worried there'll be a repetition, Assuming I feel okay when I get to San Crist, I will see if I can book the bloody Canyon del Sumadero Tour for tomorrow. That way I can then have Friday sort of wandering around town, get up late, go and have coffee, maybe make some onward plans, sort of saying goodbye to the place as a whole and then move on Saturday. Of course if I really want to stay Saturday night or something tempting or you know I'm getting on well with people I can but nonetheless my first booking is Wednesday Thursday Friday nights and my current rough plan is to move on Saturday.

1141 I don't intend to hang on in the room until literally 12 o'clock. I am kind of milking it a little bit, but I also am making these notes that I've practically caught up now. I might just have a check round and then leave in five or ten minutes.

I don't know if there's any cenotes near Sankris, but I guess if they're near but you have to take a collectivo over to them, that's not really any good to me unless I happen to find someone who wanted to go with me. So probably I wouldn't be extending in Sankris in order to do a cenote, and that's still something I've got to keep an eye out and bear in mind when I'm making my future plans for the rest of the time. I need to remember I still got nearly two weeks. It's easy to write that off. I've said this before, but does bear repeating. It's like nearly a quarter, maybe actually a quarter of my total trip, which is still to come.

On a random note, the Wi-Fi here is open and then you have one of those hotel-style systems where you have to type a code in. I asked and I just told there were two, it turns out there were two paper slips in the drawer by the bed and there are neither of them seems to work today, I don't know why. It's not the end of the world, you know, and I've got the 06 with its sim for little messages and stuff. It is just a little bit annoying like, why can't they not just have proper Wi-Fi and give you the password and maybe the password once a month or whatever if they want to anyway.

1847 at hostel, having beer at bar on own. Been chatting to some people upstairs, holly is leaving tomorrow and Max in a few days. Lewis is still here.

I got collectivo straight away both at el chiflon and comitan  bit hot and slightly crappy seat on second but not terrible. About an hour to comitan and about two then to San cris. Checked in by Sergio no problem, Max had sorted me with a lower bunk in New 4 bed dorm here which isn't cubicles but I said I would rather go in upper bunk with cubicles in 6 bed dofm.  Not a big deal. Went for walk and decided not to eat in restaurant to reduce risk of getting sick. I had pastries at Dona isabel and a coffee and Kukulpan and came back and max booked me on tour tomorrow 9am. And then ben chatting upstairs mainly with max and holly and new volunteer whose name I forget.

2055 hanging round feeling slightly bnm. People bit split up on roof and max speaking French with some people SK don't like to try to join them. I don't think anyone is going to open mic and tbh an not that fussed. There is a "surf" band on at 2200 which might be OK but tbh unless anyone else goes and I can tag along I am probably not that interested. There is a ska punk band on at 2200 tomorrow (I saw and photoed the weekly poster in super max earlier) and I may go to that. I don't really want to take unnecessary chances before the tour tomorrow, although technically speaking a few drinks is fine. But as I say I don't think anyone is likely to be going out, it isn't just that I am not kncluded. I think holly is packing etc and will be back later to say goodbye etc and it would be nice to be here for that and otherwise or afterwards an earlyish night at say 10 or 11 wouldn't hurt.

Have been flicking through paper copy of guide book down on ground floor and while I am still unsure what do to when I leave here it is maybe helping a bit. I think the main planning/decision making will be done tomorrow evening post tour and/or on Friday. Max says it will be 34C on tour tomorrow but can't he helped and I don't think there is much walking, so I guess I am mostly going to be sitting on hopefully aircon buses or on boat where there is hopefully some breeze and water-ish coolness. I asked Max and there is no swimming, there are crocodiles.

Did copy photos and videos from p7 onto USB stick earlier so I do have a backup despite syncthing seeming not to be working very well lately for some reason. I am probably taking the p7 with me tomorrow despite the boat.

2117 fwiw I had a shower and changed all clothes except trousers after I had that solo beer (with some of the Mani garapinado I bought at super max) and then went and loitered down on ground floor - there was a cooking class but it was chilaques and I declined, but I was invited.

2341 in bed. Loitered around a bit and had chat with German woman who arrived today and also with holly and max and some other people up on terrace. Slightly awkward at points but broadly fine and sociable. I feel OK physically at the moment so touch wood the tour will be OK.

I didn't obviously see anyone go out to el paliacate, max says they are nearly full and I could kind of see that when picking out dorm bed with Sergio, I haven't seen that many people but I guess maybe they have gone out on their own (or sneaked out to el paliacate, but I doubt it it) or went to bed early. Not a problem, just an observation.

Wednesday, 26 February 2025

El Chiflon

Tue 1843 Almost exactly two weeks to go until my flight leaves. I'm sitting outside the cabin at the Eco Lodge. I think I might actually be the only person in at least this block of cabins. There's some more further down the river towards some of the falls, but honestly I think it's just me here at the moment. It's kind of weird, very slightly creepy, also sort of cool. I can hear the river because it runs right past the cabin like, you know, I hope it helps me sleep rather than is annoying.

Not sure this place is actually called the Eco Lodge, but you know, it's cabins inside the park. Expensive, not too bad. Anyway, I'll call it the Eco Lodge.

I didn't sleep too badly, not super well. I was awake before my 7 o'clock alarm but I didn't want to get up at 7. I think I snoozed and I actually got up about 7.30. I wasn't asleep with the snooze, it was just snoozing on the alarm. I'm voice typing this by the way since I'm too lazy to get the keyboard out and since I seem to have pretty good privacy and I'm not saying anything really sensitive. I thought I'll go with the voice typing.

Anyway, I packed no real problems. I handed the key over to the bloke at reception as I left, no fuss. I think it was about 8.15 by the time I left the hotel. So, not really a huge deal. It turns out the place where I thought I could get the collectivo to the falls - El Chiflón - actually doesn't probably only goes to tzimol or what it was called. But the guy said, I'll go to the boulevard and I guessed That was what the main highway was called and also my guidebook did say something about an hourly service and I spotted the name of the place across the road and as I was crossing some guy called out El Chiflón and I first said oh no thanks and I realised what he said and then I went and talked to him so long story short I got on a collectivo for I think 50 pesos I waited 10 minutes and then we set off took a while not forever and we got here no problem.

Just been into the room to put some insect repellent on because I had a mosquito on the back of my hand. I don't think it's particularly bad here, but you know, I take chances.

As I expected, there was about a kilometer walk up the path from where the bus drops you off to the entrance. No problem at all, really. I didn't see any tuk-tuk really, but I didn't want one, so that was fine. I got checked in, no problem. I was probably checked in by about 10. According to the stuff on the wall, check-in's actually at 3pm, but the woman who I'd been WhatsApp-ing and who I saw at the kind of reception counter after going to the wrong place first, she said when I booked this over WhatsApp that I could check in from 8. Anyway, so I got checked in. The room is actually quite nice. I just remembered again when I went in for the repellent that when you're going from outside it's like there's a fan running because you go in and there's the water running past. It's quite nice in a way but also a bit weird. There is a fan but I haven't tried turning it on yet. It's quite cool in the room. It seems quite shady and the walls are quite thick and substantial and so forth. It's definitely cooler in the room than outside during the day.

So I set off for the walk up the falls about quarter past ten, maybe check the photo timestamp or the GPS logs if I really want to know. There's a sign saying it's like one and a bit kilometers, maybe one and a half, one point two. I thought oh that's going to take no time at all, but it's really uphill. Especially the lower parts of it, it's all very nice, tidy, concrete steps. I think it's even wheelchair accessible for the first few falls. Towards the top it's a little bit more It's definitely not like you're walking through even, you know, wilderness path or anything like that.

I think I was there early enough that it wasn't too hot to start with, although it did get sunnier and warmer as it went on. Not unbearably so, but, you know, kind of sweaty and so on. I was wearing the same clothes I'd worn yesterday, so that was not too bad.

A couple of people spoke to me at one two points asking me to take a photo or I assumed to take a photo and people would say, where are you from and we'd have a little bit of a chat, not very often, nothing major but, you know, kind of nice.

The falls really are pretty cool. I mean, I remember going around the corner and seeing the brides veil, you know, unexpectedly and it's like, oh wow, it really is pretty good, you know. I won't compare it to iguazu Falls because it's just different, right? The falls are not the same style of falls, but it is very good, there's no denying. The water is a lovely light blue kind of colour. I was tempted when I first saw it to say it looked kind of glacial, but I don't think it has that really light turquoise that I would have Rightly or wrongly associated with a glacier.

It is a little bit muddy at the top two falls, but there's hand rails, and all I've got a few splashes of mud on these trails that are which are due to be changed anyway. It's not a huge detail, it's not, and they'll probably scrape off, you know, when they're dry or something. I can probably give them a water only wash at the next hostel, which I'll talk about in a second.

You do get sprayed with water from some of the viewpoints near like the brides veil and the top one and the handrails are a bit sort of slimy and they've actually got rubber matting on the floor at the brides veil which is quite nice so that helps make it safer and I guess reduces mud splatter on your trails or whatever.

I was a bit confused by some of the signs as you passed the swimming area because they all say "por el tiempo de lluvia no se permite nadar". That's not what it says I've got photos, something like that.  And while I wasn't sure, I kind of assumed that this meant, oh, and it *is* therefore the time of rain and it's not permitted, whereas I think here, poor means more like durante, so to speak. So they don't hang these signs up when it's not permitted, they just hang them up all the time and they only apply when it's the rainy season, which isn't.

It didn't help that because I was there relatively early, as I passed the main swimming area, there's no one in the water. On the way back, just to jump ahead, there were people in there, so I thought, oh yeah, probably you can. And when I got to the checkpoint at the start of the trail, I asked and they said, yeah, yeah, yeah, you can swim, it's fine.

I felt a tiny bit annoyed when I thought maybe I couldn't swim because part of the reason for paying the extra stay in the lodge here was to be able to swim because that's as I said yesterday a faff if you've got to go all the way back when you're on your own there's no one to guard your stuff while you swim. wasn't the end of the world and even without being here now at night on my own which is kind of cool and weird the room was quite nice and 20 quid extra compared to being in comitan tonight isn't the end of the world but slightly annoying. As it turned out, then that wasn't an issue and I'll talk about swimming later. When I was looking for the reception when I first got here I went to what turned out to be the entrance to the trail and I thought they were doing like COVID style scanning of your forehead temperature. It turned out they were just scanning the wristband you get at the entrance. I do need to learn the Spanish word for tight, by the way, because I didn't know how to say it when the guy was putting it on, but it was fine. and he understood me.

So I came out after the trail, which probably took me about three or four hours. I wasn't caning it, you know, but I wasn't hanging around excessively. I did try to enjoy each fall as well as taking video. And I went to each one twice, basically, once on the way up and once on the way down. You might think the very top most one that didn't make sense, but because the organic maps shows an extra trail that actually doesn't exist, I ended up going back. I thought I'd missed something so anyway I actually did go to each fall twice roughly speaking once on the way up and once on the way down. It did take way too many photos and I suspect all the video I felt obliged to take has burned up loads of storage space but it should be okay.

1900 I've been writing this more or less continuously, but I'll throw in a timestamp to show how the time is going by.

So by the time I got back it was something like quarter past two maybe. So I went to the onsite restaurant, I checked the menu out earlier, a little bit expensive but not insane. I had a not actually that bad carne asada, with undressed salad and tortillas and frijoles and chips. I think that was 210 and it was 40 for a coke and then I gave a 10% tip. I went for the full fat coke because I thought well you know I don't know how many calories I might need or want or be able to fet today so let's Yes, have the extra ones even if sugar is not a great way to get calories.

After that I went to an iguana observation point that I'd noticed earlier. It's just a fence by a little sort of hillside running down towards the river. But there are iguanas basking around there. That's quite cool. I actually went twice because the first time I had the 06 with me and then I went back and sorted my swimming gear out and then popped back with the P7. There's actually an ambulance waiting there presumably in case of need as well as the first aid station right by there. It seems a bit odd somehow that they have an ambulance waiting permanently. but I guess you know it's a van, it's a site and they're maybe not short of money.

So I was a bit edgy but I put my swimming gear on and I went over and I walked over wearing the flip-flops and you know the t-shirt and the bandana on my head and I struggled to find the swimming place exactly because no one was there anymore because it was about quarter past four at this point when I hoped the UV would be lower and the water had as much time to warm up as it could and I think most of the day visitors will have gone home by that point since maybe while there was no one else in the water even though I'd seen some earlier.

So I asked a guy at one of the kiosks and he was fine and he vaguely pointed me out and I went in the water and it was a bit cold but not terrible and the bit I went in was not very deep it was like although of course I was a bit cautious because there was no one else around no lifeguards or anything it was like probably a metre, a metre and a half deep top it's probably near a metre there was quite a current you know and that was kind of cool but also a bit annoying and there were quite a lot of rocks should do some swimming, a bit of breast, mostly front crawl. So, I did do a bit of swimming, but you know, after a bit, and I was struggling with the swimming, as always, just, no, I don't know why it's so much harder compared to how it was at the pool. Not that was great, but anyway, whatever it is. But, you know, I'd swim, and even if you're going against the current, it's harder and slower, I'd still run into rocks and stuff. There were some places upstream where there's either four or seven metres of depth. I don't know if there's two, or I misread the sign one time, but that would probably be much better because I'm sure if it's that deep the rocks are down the bottom and you can swim unobstructed but what with the current and that depth and no lifeguards and my relatively rudimentary swimming skills and you know not even swimming that much lately there's no way I'm chancing that so at least I had a go and I went in the water and it was quite pleasantly cool and stuff so that's fine. And this makes me feel a bit better about having stayed here for the night and it's all practice and all I guess helps keep the swimming habit up slightly ready for when I'm back home.

If it wasn't for the swimming to be honest, I will be honest. It's kind of cool to have this quite nice, expensive cabin by the water and even in a strange way to be here tonight on my own, sitting out here. But if it wasn't for the swimming, it would have been much more convenient and cheaper to just come from Comitane and stay back at the same hotel in Comitane. I'd have saved £20 on the accommodation. I'd have got an hour of the return journey to San cris done today rather than having to do it tomorrow morning. there's an animal oh it's a cat there's a cat wandering around across the other side of the path.

So when I was back at the hostel after going to the falls and eating and then I came back to the room before I went to look at the lizards and swim I got in touch with the old hostel in San Crist and I booked a room there for Wednesday Thursday Friday night. Slightly earlier than I would like to be there in some sense because it would be more fun I think to be in San Crist Thursday Friday Saturday but I can still stay on the Saturday night and I think In some ways, there's no point wasting the Wednesday. I could, in theory, stay at one of the hotels, which are not listed on booking.com, and maybe I should make more of a point of looking on Google Maps or Hostile World or whatever. I suspect some of the hostels just outside the park gates are cheaper, even if they aren't necessarily cheap. I could, for example, stay somewhere local and do the other side of the falls tomorrow. But having seen them today, I'm not that bothered. I don't think the difference between the two is that great. I don't think it's like Igrasu Falls and even that I did years apart.

I also, I think to be honest, even if it was 15 pounds a night, it's kind of cool here, but especially given how sort of dead it is at night. Even if I had two months of the trip left, I probably wouldn't, and it was 15 pounds, I probably wouldn't stay here another night, you know. So, anyway, the way it's worked out, I'm done round Comitane for this trip, so it makes sense to go back to San Cristobal tomorrow.

I did when I was heading down the fall path this morning think, oh I might do this again afternoon and then again tomorrow morning before I leave that was before I realized how steep it was and that it does actually take quite a while. I just might walk to some of the lower falls tomorrow morning I've got to check out at 12 but if I was up at 7 or 7.30 to be on the trail at 8 I think it opens. I asked and apparently my wristband is good for tomorrow as well. I could probably walk up to the lower ones even if I wouldn't go all The way to the top.

Anyway, so after I went swimming wasn't ever long, I might have been in the water swimming for 10 or 15 minutes. It's really hard to say I forgot to check my watch. You know, anything's better than nothing. I came back to the room and I had a shower. And just as I was about to get in the shower, which does actually have quite nice hot water, there was a fairly big spider on the bathroom floor. Not as big as the one I saw going up the steps to the tuck when I was at the beach at night at Puerto Escondido. But fairly big, probably bigger than you'd get back home. Maybe five centimetre leg span, I don't know, I took some pictures. I didn't freak out to be honest, but it would have been nice to catch it so it wasn't in there, but I had no glass. I did, after I'd had a shower, I sort of ignored the spider and it scuttled away and then it was hanging around by a cupboard and maybe it went outside under the door or maybe it hid under the cupboard but as long as out of the way I'm not too forced. I would probably have caught it, it was sitting there perfect for me to put a glass over it but I didn't have a glass. I'd finish showering and got dressed. I did go out to the reception desk, but it was shut. It wasn't too upset or surprised. I knew it was shutting around at time.

Anyway, some staff guy who wasn't the woman who works in the reception desk spoke to me and I ignored him at first by accident and I talked to him and I said about thebwpiser and thw tit had gone now but ibwaa hoping to get a glass to catch it if it came back ans he said oh no they're shut sorry and I asked him would it be dangerous and he said no no it wouldn't be and I didn't cut up rough and I said oh you know I know we're in the countryside here you know it's fine it's fine but anyway so it's probably hiding somewhere I just hope it doesn't give me an nasty shot but didn't freak me out too much and it kind of cool to see it but you know there are limits. Did pretty well really compare to how i would have reacted a few years ago so that's kind of cool. Fingers crossed there's no nasty surprises waiting for me.

So anyway, I didn't realise but I thought I'd be able to get a beer. There's a few kiosks around and there's the restaurant. The kiosks were shut and then suddenly thought, oh the restaurant's gonna be shut too isn't it? And I went up and I spoke to them and they said, yes we're short, the only places are off site. The woman who checked me and had told me that although they shut at five or something for coming in, for me I wasn't sure if she needed to arrange it or not, I could get in up to late. It was about half an hour, 20 minutes before sunset at this point.

So there's the usual dog issue as well as can I get back as I'm heading out. I sent her WhatsApp message to the woman, although she didn't get back and I messaged again to tell her it's fine when I did get back. As I'm heading out, you can see all the kind of staff on buses and motorbikes and stuff going up the path. So I walked the kilometer back into town and some guy said did i want colectivo to comitan reasonably enough but I said no. And I made a point of speaking to everyone at the security checkpoints. And they went through just to say, can I come back? And they said, yes, up until eight o'clock. And I don't think they would have actually put any barriers down, but anyway.

So there were a few restaurants on the path, but I didn't really want to go in and ask them for a takeout. They didn't look that suitable. There were a couple of shops by the public road where the collectivos dropped you off, so I dashed into one, bought a couple of cans of Corona, big 710 millilitre ones and some crisps and a small bottle of Coke. And I paid 129 for that, which seems a lot, but maybe isn't insane. They were big beers and the beers on site would have cost me 50, maybe plus 10% tip, for probably 4-7-3 mils, if not 3-3. 30 mils, so not so bad. And I walked back and as I was getting back it was like starting to get slightly dim but you know the sun had probably set about five minutes. There were no real issues with dogs on the way back and I said hi to all the staff at the gates and you know when I got back to the room and it's fine.

So I sat down and I had my first beer, which I'm still finishing now, and I watched a brief YouTube video and then I started writing this and voice typing. So I'm not Stone Cold Sober, but I'm certainly not drunk, and most of the weirdness is just voice typing, plus me being a bit lazy about correcting it, although I am trying to fix up the worst things when I notice them.

1920 I've been writing continuously timestamps just to show how long I'm taking for this. So I'm going to have another beer in a bit and I've got some crisps and some coke and I'll have some of those. I had my pan canella at the top of the falls. I've got some iced pan canella which I might have tomorrow morning or something.

I didn't have to go out, you know, I had eaten at the restaurant, although I didn't realise quite how critical it was, but luckily I had done. So, but you know, I thought I'd be hanging around and a beer would be nice and some sort of snack would be nice. So, what the hell? But I didn't have to go out.

Incidentally, with respect to the voice typing versus the Bluetooth keyboard, like I say, I've got a table in the room where it's a bit low, and I'm sitting at this probably about ideally height table outside. I could have got the Bluetooth keyboard and my reading glasses out. In some ways the keyboard is nice, but I'm not at least yet as fluent on it as I would be on a real keyboard. And while I would probably make fewer errors, and the errors I made would just be still a little typos that would be easy to ignore in the future rather than ...weird vocal glitches or voice typing errors or random punctuation with voice typing... ...you know, the Bluetooth keyboard is still not trivial to use well. And there is probably an advantage that while the quality isn't as good, the voice typing does encourage me to just ramble in a way that I maybe wouldn't with the Bluetooth keyboard where it's a bit more of an effort. So this is perhaps producing more slightly low quality text, but more notes on how I'm feeling and what I've done, whereas with the Bluetooth keyboard there might be a bit of a tendency to elide things slightly or not mention something, to save typing something painfully. I don't know, but just an observation.

1923 Okay, I finished that first can. I left the other beer ans the coke in the bag, my day pack, by the open window, by the river end of the room. It's cooler in the room. That beer I just finisjed wasn't too hot, so the other one's probably fine, but I don't want to save the drinks too late because they'll get warm eventually. So maybe I'll watch a YouTube video and have the other beer and have the crisps. Anyway, I may write more, but I think I've got the bulk of the day down.

1938 Incidentally when I got into the room the towels were on the bed to say like two swans making a heart shape. I've seen that before but the sort of places I stay and it's obviously not common. It's not that often I even get a private double room so I was oddly touched isn't quite the right word but you know impressed. I actually left them like that for quite a while but when I had a shower I obviously had to take that apart and that kind of quote art unquote is obviously transient anyway and very easy for them to remake. I did kind of try to dissect how it was made and I took a few photos. I've seen YouTube videos how to do it but I'm sure there's more than one way. It's like there were three towels and one of them was actually different to others and it seemed a bit more complex and I thought well also simple but anyway just an observation.

There is technically quite a stiff penalty for overstaying the checkout point. It's like half a day's fucking rent, but probably okay, but I don't seriously expect to fall foul of it anyway.

I'm glad I did get to have a swim here in if it was a bit weird but obviously it's not a cenote anyway so I think of the things I could have done but I haven't swimming in a cenote is probably top of the list maybe Canyon del Sumadero I'll have another go at that from San Cristobal again. Yes, technically I swam in Cinote on that boat trip which gave me a fever in Bacala, but you know, I was wearing a life jacket and the water was like a metre, metre and a half deep. It wasn't really a swim, you know.

If I do leave Sankris on Saturday night, I think I've got about 10 days left of the trip. I do need to remember that is not nothing even if I've got to get several hundred kilometres back to Cancun. There's certainly time to call in somewhere else. Maybe there's a Cenote near Sankris. I could possibly still fly back from say Tuxler to Cancun, but we'll see how it goes. I want to get to Sankris and maybe do the Sumodero Tour and so forth and hopefully have some fun there and a few drinks.

The second beer, I'm still probably about a third of the way through. It got two thirds left. It's not hot, it's still cool, but you know, it's definitely not absolutely massively chilled. I'm enjoying it, but I'm not super enjoying it, but you know, I'm kind of glad I've got it. random observation.

Maybe there's someone in the next cabin being really annoyed by me doing this voice typing, but as I do this I've not seen anyone coming around. A couple did seem to be leaving maybe an hour or so ago. I don't even remember it was a long time, but I've seen no sign of anyone else in any of these other cabins in the little sort of terraced block.

In theory I guess I could wander down to the river and head out and walk along the falls in the dark but it'd probably be creepy as fuck. I probably wouldn't be able to say anything and obviously I could slip and fall and drown or something and call me a coward but I just see absolutely no benefit whatsoever to doing that.

1946 Okay, I did just go out of the little gated-off area outside the cabins. My cabin incidentally is named after the hostel I was in in Baccala, which is kind of cool. It's also the one nearest to the entrance to the trail down by the falls, and I just went and had a look and snapped a few photos. And yeah, there's a rope across half of the entrance to the path, and just to prove a point. I wandered down it, and as far as I can tell, I wouldn't even have to jump over or climb under a trivial rope barrier to actually go and walk as far as I wanted down the river, if I were an idiot (there would be no lights and I'd see nothing) I guess I could walk two hours up to the top of the falls and two hours back. I guess it makes sense the barrier isn't absolutely solid because there are some duplex cabins, a few hundred meters down the path that side of the barrier. Anyway, just the observation that it's technically possible. There are quite a lot of lights on all around me. It's far from dark here. It's not just the outside little terrace area with the gate of the cabins, the paths around. I'm the little complex here all lit up, presuming there's a security guard somewhere who might even stop me if I was stupid enough to go wandering down the path. I don't think it would necessarily be dangerous to walk a couple hundred metres down the path but it would be creepy and I'm not sure there'd be any light showing the water and I don't think there's any real benefit from doing it so call me a coward if you like but I'm not going to.

I probably said the other day that one of the things I would sort of like to do in the abstract that just doesn't seem to have panned out on this trip is some quote serious, unquote hiking, you know, like going up near paramillo del quindio in Colombia. But it just doesn't seem to have come in the way where I've been. I'm not saying if you were hardcore you couldn't have trogged up into the hills around some of the towns I've been. I met a Slovakian guy who I think said he'd walked up in some of the hills around San Cris and done some long circuits but, you know, there hasn't really been any big obvious thing to do in the hiking sense. It's fine, while it kind of makes me think, oh, perhaps my physical condition has collapsed since a year ago and I'll never get it back. I've no real reason to believe that's the case. Yes, the idea of doing something like the Parameo hike is kind of scary, but it was kind of scary at the time. And no, it wasn't trivial slogging up the hills and slogging down the hills, but I've no real reason to believe I couldn't do it this year or that I won't be able to do it next year. I just haven't done it. Also, you know, when I'm walking up the falls today, my trousers are annoying because I've got too much crap in like the knee pockets and stuff, but I'm still walking and it's not a trivial walk and obviously if I was doing a longer hike or I thought things through better and planned, how to stash stuff better, I wouldn't need this stuff in the pockets or, you know, on a hike, I'd put it in my backpack. There's no real reason to think that I've lost condition massively, so to speak, you know. I don't think I'm quite that old that a year or two when I'm taking exercise generally is going to make that much difference.

I kind of wish I'd bought more snacks at that shop, but even though I was there in a hurry, I did also kind of think, no, I shouldn't go and buy loads and loads of snacks, because that's just going to pile on the unhealthiness. I'm certainly not hungry. I've still got those iced (glasses) pan canela, I could eat them, but it's pretty best to save those for tomorrow, so I'm not hungry until I get to St. Chris. Anyway, I've also got some nuts from the UK I've been looking around. I could have those but they are (deliberately) a bit borkng and untemptong and as I an not actually hungry I will stick with this beer and the diet coke I bought.

For what it's worth, there's a couple of probably 600 mill bottles of bottled water in the room. I've started drinking one of them. I'll finish the other tomorrow. I've got my filter with me so I can have as much water as I want, but it does have a slightly funny taste from the bag, I think, because I tested it with drinking water back home. It's not that the water going into it tastes funny. It adds a taste to the water coming out of it. I guess that might wear off over time. Anyway, although it's expensive here, It is nice that they give you these couple of bottles of water strange how you can feel grateful or something like that when it really is very expensive but anyway.

1958 There's no denying it's kind of cool to be here quote on my own quote at night like this. Not sure in itself it's worth the money but you know on top of the swimming and there's an experience and the nicest room. Not the comet and private room wasn't quite nice to be honest. You know it's something and the money's not huge.

Anyway, what I was going to say earlier is that they do zip lining here (tirolesa in Spanish, I has learned this at other parks where they theoretically offered it but not one was around to do it even if I had wanted to). I'm slightly tempted, but not massively tempted. It's like I've got photos of the prices, but it's like 200, 300, 650, depending on how many of the zip lines you want to do. Even the long, I think the total thing is like 1,300 metres for 650. It's not nothing, but I did it in Costa Rica. It was only a couple of years ago. I'm not desperate to do it. I don't really, I mean, you know, theoretically I could walk up and zip line back tomorrow, but 650 is not nothing. I'm not that excited to do it. 650 isn't a lot if I really wanted to do it. You know, I think some of the Costa Rica ones are much longer. It would probably be good to do it again at some point, although perhaps it would be more exciting and new experiences to do something like a bungee jump, given I quite enjoyed the extreme-ish stuff at the end of the Costa Rica stuff. But I also don't like feeling I ought to do things just because they're waved in front of me and they're not ridiculously expensive. I did see a few people doing it and some very shortish but you know not trivial queues during my walk up the falls today. Not saying I won't do it tomorrow but I'm really not that fussed. It's not going to be a deathbed regret. But you know maybe let's say next year if I travel somewhere it would be good to do it again to prove to myself I can still do it if I can't find something like bungee jumping. I'm not scared to do it really, it's just, I'd almost rather do the walking and the exercise and save the money and it, you know, anyway, mixed feelings, but not a big deal.

2006 Yeah, you voice typing totally through away half what I said. Just being for a piss, the spider is sitting about six inches off the floor, on the door frame by the toilet. It's not moving, not doing any harm, probably theoretically eating mosquitoes or something, but, you know, I wish I had just chucked it out. Anyway, I'm not picking it up because who knows. Apart from general phobia-ish kind of stuff, it might bite me, I don't know. It's all very well, that guy's saying they're not dangerous, but that doesn't mean it won't bite. Anyway. Yes, of course. I held my hand near it just for scale and I'm guessing with its legs in that kind of natural bent position a spider has when it's sitting on the wall it's maybe about as big as you know The fingertip two joints of my right index finger, may be a bit bigger anyway, I don't know what would that be about. Maybe a bit over 5cm more if you stretch the legs out I suppose. Anyway for what it's worth.

Probably fairly obvious and I may be said but I haven't got and checked but with regard to the swimming obviously if it's like four meters deep the rocks are probably not an issue and you can really swim but what with the current and that being deep and no lifeguards and my current level of skill and the fact that I haven't swum much lately no wayon earth am I risking swimming in 4m or more of water right now so that's why I stuck with that bit where I hoped and as it turned out it was fairly shallow the rocks are a bit of a pisser but you know I was able to swim a bit and every little helps.

2020 I've probably already said at some point, but not that I've read it for a few weeks, reading FF3W and also talking to Yuri and looking at his very old guidebook. I do half wish I'd been able to be a backpacker back in that late 90s kind of era, you know, maybe before the internet was too much of a thing and the atmosphere was still perhaps a bit like it had been for the last 20 or 30 years of backpacking.

But, you know, that was not on the cards for me back then. Technically, it was a possibility, but my personality, my view of the world, my financial situation, it was just not there. It's a shame, but can't be helped, you know. I was so far away from having the courage to do that, and something that even now, I look back, and of course you look back and you always think about the past, you think people have operations there, and aesthetic and stuff. Overblown analogy, but you know Anyway, like, even now, as someone who has travelled quite a bit in today's modern, cushy world, notwithstanding that things are a bit different post 2020 and stuff, it's like, even now, as someone who does travel, I look back and I think, oh my god, it must have been so scary. But therefore also, that was part of what made it cool, I guess, in a not-posey way, just, you know, it was an adventure, more So, you know, no way was it on the cards for me at the time. I suppose, you know, I should be pleased that I've managed to develop myself to a point where I can at least do modern style of backpackery travel, which is also not something I would have been able to do back in the late 90s, and not just for financial reasons. You know, give myself some credit.

As I said earlier though, seeing the hotels just outside the park, which are not as far as I can tell on booking.com, but they might be on hostile world, I don't know. In some sense, I should be less lazy and hunt out these kind of things, and that would help me maybe get off the beaten track more. But as I also think I said before, it's amazing how rushed things can feel when I'm travelling. Despite the theoretical loads of time as a tourist, it's always easy to be lazy and I guess the FF3W points that stuff takes a long time when you're traveling in ways it doesn't when you're at home still applies it's just not quite as bad as it was but you know getting laundry done or doing laundry is not the triviality it is when you're at home and you know you are constantly making decisions and maybe I'm making excuses but you know anyway just some notes while they're fresh.

The roof on this block of single level cabins is insanely high and I've just had a quick look and I don't think my ceiling, while by no means low, is anywhere near that high. I've got no idea what's up there, whether it's just some space to act as kind of insulation and keep the sun heat out of the rooms or if the storage up there or what. I don't think it's other accommodation. Anyway, just another random observation.

2031 I just might have that iced canela bread in a bit because I've always got the nuts in case of actual hunger emergency tomorrow and it would probably be quite easy for me to pick something up on the way, you know. Anyway, I was actually just going to say one of the small things I'm actually looking forward to about going to San cris is that Supermax there used to sell like 500 gram bags of mani garapiñado for like forty or forty five pesos. So, probably you can get them that cheap elsewhere in Mexico but it's like I haven't happened to come across it and it's like I do like caramelised peanuts and I'm sure you can get them back home but they don't seem to be as common as maybe in Latin America and I had probably two 500 gram bags while I was in San Crist last time and it's like guzzled them all myself and I'm probably gonna get a 500 grand bag when I'm there and guzzled them all myself so yeah that would be nice. In a not too preachy way, sometimes it's the small things that help make days enjoyable and travel enjoyable. And I know sometimes I've been thinking, oh my God, I've got to get up tomorrow and go and travel, but I am really looking forward to having dinner tomorrow night, or I'll go to that place and get some unhealthy food, or I'll go and have a pastry at some bakery. And these little things they do kind of make me happy sometimes. Almost unreasonably happy, apart frpm the health impact I guess it's quite good to have these little things making you happy, I guess.

Oh, well, having a shower after discovering and being able to do anything with the spider and deciding I'd just ignore it after I'd been in about five or ten minutes. A leaf suddenly appeared on my leg and I did go, ugh! Don't really blame myself. I'm not sure where a leaf came from. Five or ten minutes after I'd been in a shower, you know, I could have picked some leaves up on the soles of my flip-flops, which I had on in the shower because I wanted to wash all my gear off after swimming. But after five or ten minutes, how the hell did that happen? was the leaf hiding in my hair somehow and finally got dislodged? I don't know but you know I did go uhhh not freak out but have a little second panic or something but semi understandable and way better than I would have done in the past.

2037 Nearly finished, but not quite finished the second beer. So that's like two and a bit pints at four and a half percent, not too insane. I'm still sitting outside, there's a little bit of a breeze getting up and it's actually quite, I'm not wearing the fleece fairly obviously to me now, but maybe not to me reading this. But it's actually quite pleasantly warm and then the breeze is just pleasantly cool. Yeah, very nice actually.

It's much lower here than in St Chris or Commetan and as that blog post mentioned it's definitely hotter and stickier here but you know in the room it's been nice even during the day out here it's quite nice it hasn't been awful it's still 600 meters which I guess helps anyway just random observations

Probably said before, as a general rule it's like the last night before you have to move somewhere else is a bit sucky and that means that single night's days are inherently a bit sucky because you don't have that, oh I've got a fairly chilled day tomorrow and I can kind of get up when I wanand j have a secure base and i will be sleepong here tomorrow night toot. Yeah it's not as simple as that because you could be staying somewhere for several days and still have a tour in the morning but you know even so there is still something about that last night thing. It's a shame to have to leave tomorrow, but I also really, even if it was cheaper and even if I hadn't more time, I don't really want to stay. If it was cheaper and I hadn't more time, I might stay for a second day here, but it would be a bit borderline even so. And since neither of those is true, you know, it's not. And it's still nice to be staying for a single night and have all the slightly weird experience of being here, even if I'd rather there wasn't a spider in the room that I can't eject because I don't have a glass. you know, not a huge deal.

First I didn't say the onsite restaurant here, while a tiny bit expensive was not actually that much more expensive than I might have expected, you know. I may even eat tomorrow, for example, at that place that I was eating in San Christ before where I got the steak and salad and stuff, 180. You know, base price was 200, maybe the San Christ place includes a free drink and you know, but the restaurant here was maybe A little pricey but not the, oh my god, ridiculous premium price because you're a captive audience that I was expecting.

2047 Finish the second beer. We'll probably have the iced bread with the coke. I'll do fucking duolingo first by way of penance.

2053 Been in to get the Diet Coke which is only slightly cool and the iced bread. I think it's actually cooler out here than inside at last so I've now left the room door open to try and exchange some more heat.

2102 For what it's worth, I kind of mostly unpacked my backpack earlier because, you know, I have a private room and I was looking for stuff like my swimming gear. I may repack it tonight, probably wait till tomorrow. There's a few like water bottles that I brought from the UK that I probably shouldn't be lugging around that are bulking it out a little bit but not too much junk really.

2111 Okay, just been in and done a bit of packing of the dry type stuff. Hopefully the swimming gear will dry off a bit overnight. Spiders still there. I guess in a way it's quite cool the way they just sit there and don't move that much. Anyway, I just wish I could get the thing out, but what are you going to do?

2119 Screen protector on the P7 is getting increasingly worse, it's bubbling up around the right hand side but hey I guess it's still protecting the screen and as long as I don't tear it it'll see the trip out and I can replace it when I get home. It's just mildly annoying. I keep kind of squeezing the bubbles out and trying to stick it back down but it keeps popping back up but maybe keeping doing it is vaguely beneficial.

Tuesday, 25 February 2025

Comitan, Monday

Mon 1825 Back in hotel room. A pretty successful day's touristing.

I was awake about 0630 but really felt vaguely depressed and didn't want to get up and face the "challenge" of going over to the site etc. Nothing amazingly out of the ordinary.

I did make a bit of an effort and finally got up about 0715 and was out of the hotel about 0750. Guy at reception was sweeping and asked me if I wanted my room cleaned but I said it was fine - it is, this is maybe also a small quid pro quo for letting me check in early, and I also had some mildly damp clothes hanging up which I'd rather they didn't see.

I got the colectivo over to Tenam Puente no problem, by luck I turned up just as one was leaving (empty) and just about seized the moment in time to speak to the driver and got to sit in the front (he didn't seem disposed to chat and was on phone and radio a bit so I didn't push it) and we got there no problem. I asked about coming back and he said to ask the police (? but there are like staff and security at th site) and they would call him (presumably not literally him but the company).

I paid 75 to get into the site, I was there about 0840 (see photo timestamps and GPS logs for details). It was pleasantly cool and a bit overcast and grey (partly due to early morning), I was wearing fleece.

Maybe the guide book had set the tone but the site does feel a bit unexplored and I did realise later on that as you walk round one of the paths on the site you cannot see anything except trees and hills and you could almost walk right past all the ruins (which are not small!) without realising they were there.

I had the site practically to myself, I was the first visitor of the day in the day book (and there might have been about 5 yesterday, and probably all but one entry which was for a French group was Mexicans), except for maybe 10 mins about an hour in when a group of young slightly noisy but pleasant enough (we said buenos dias) Mexicans - no idea if locals or national tourists - came into the same area as me. That was about it. As I was leaving a few more people were heading down the path into the site but I was leaving then.

It is very cool and it did somehow irrationally feel like I was "discovering" the ruins for myself (presumably in reality if they were undiscovered they would be covered in vegetation, but my imagination didn't care about that). I probably didn't over-milk it. I spent about two hours wandering round with the aid of a photo of the map at the entrance (which I found a bit hard to follow) and the sketchy site details on Organic Maps trying to make sure I saw everything and doing a bit of sitting and admiring the view in a few select places. I took probably too many photos as usual. At this point the layout of the site had kind of got worked out in my brain. I then spent maybe another 30-45 mins doing another circuit just concentrating on a couple of points I had particularly liked the view at and trying to admire the site generally without taking too many photos. The tallest pyramid was cool but actually perhaps even cooler was the view of it - looking absolutely iconically "Maya pyramid" - from the top of the big but not so big adjacent pyramid. I also particularly liked the three joined pyramids at the "far end" of the site (the ones you get to by following the path all the way round and then you come on them kind of suddenly).

The weather got warmer and sunnier as time went on and by the time I left I had taken fleece off (it had gone on and off a few times earlier) and it was warm in a pleasant bordering on slightly too hot way.

I probably left after about 3 hours, had a piss (flushing toilet with a provided bucket of water from some woman who didn't seem to expect a tip and whose job is presumably to keep these buckets filled) and asked the helpful chap at the ticket office to call the colectivo for me and had a super quick look (lots of photos  but did read quickly) round the site museum before going to wait for the colectivo at the entrance, which turned up maybe 10 mins later so worked out super well. Only 30 pesos each way.

Really did enjoy it, glad I went, the sense of isolation and (to be honest) a bit of a "yeah, this is kind of exclusive and off the beaten track" really made it something special. I could completely see myself coming back in a year or two on a subsequent visit.

Got back into town, got a Pepsi Black, went to Golden Express again but this time I picked my own meal instead of getting a numbered combo, paid about 150. I came back to hostel briefly and then after checking on Google Maps and finding there was a Santander cash machine at the OCC terminal as well as an actual branch a bit further south I trogged over to the terminal and successfully withdrew another 7k for a really very reasonable 34-ish fee on my Chase card. I then walked back into town a different route just to see more of the town, got two sweet creamy pastry things (including one of those cornucopia-ish ones) and got very sticky, then went to Museo de Arte Hermilia Dominguez de Castellanos , which was only 20 pesos and had two floors (not huge, quite a pleasant size, and a very nice little building actually) of paintings which you are annoyingly not allowed to photograph, and a small back garden.

I more or less wandered round everything twice and then went to La Esquina de Belisario on the corner of the main square and had a couple of (beer then white coffee), tiny bit of chat with one of the staff at one point who said that the climate in Comitan used to be like San Cris about 10 years ago but over the last 5? years it has changed and is now drier and sunnier. I think I remembered that correctly, make of it what you will. I would have guessed the climate was similar to San Cris myself but obviously I haven't been in both places simultaneously or either that much.

I was going to go to Cafe Bar Central for another coffee, partly for the hell of it and partly as I didn't tip yesterday due to lack of change or small notes, but it was shut so I went to Oxxo and broke a 500 (got some fizzy water like last two days and also some pan canela glaseado to go with the slightly battered pan canela I maybe got in Oaxaca - I figure I dont't know what the food will be like tomorrow and it won't hurt to have something in reserve) and came back here. I also broke a 500 at La Esquina - the bill was 196 including a suggested 10% tip (which incidentally does kind of suggest that a 10% tip is standardish, and I should maybe not feel obliged to tip more in general when I am doing it unguided and not even sure if I really need to tip) but I rounded it up to 200.

I am probably going to loiter in room for another 45-60 mins and then go out for a wander round the square after dark and maybe get something (eg some of that biscuit soup stuff) at one of the little food stalls etc. I am vaguely sad to be leaving but as usual better than being pleased etc etc.

I am trying not to plan too much ahead, I still have two weeks as of tomorrow and I will see how things go tomorrow as to whether I want to spend an extra night at El Chiflon, either in the same place I am staying tomorrow night or visiting the "other side" of the river.

I need to pack but apart from maybe leaving the slightly damp clothes out overnight the actual packing is pretty trivial and is a 5-10 minute job, it is really more a case of being paranoid about leaving something behind. I will probably have a shower when I go to bed rather than doing it now.

It still does feel like I am mostly the only gringo in Comitan and the surrounding area and everything (eg menus) does seem to be in Spanish, FWIW.

1850 If I didn't alread say FWIW the route I took by colectivo from Palenque to San Cris via Ocosingo was actually along a route you are advised not to take on FCDO site. I didn't know and of course it was fine but stll, semi cool in hindsight.

I think I am fine wrt the 40km from the border advice with the places I have been and am going round here. It is a bit of a shame - though I am also a bit tight on time - that it is inadvisable to go to some of the other ruins nearer the border with Guatemala, it would probably be fine given this is a recognised tourist thing but still. Maybe on a future visit the advice will have changed or something. As always, you can't do everything.

If it's not obvious I felt broadly fine when I left the hotel at 0750, it was just the usual-ish not wanting to get up type stuff that stoped me actually getting up at 7, and I still did pretty well getting up 715ish albeit not wanting to. I expect it will be similar tomorrow morning, which is slightly worse of course as I have to take my bag with me and have a mildly unknown destination, albeit it is not a long journey and I am fairly confident I know where to get the bus. (And I also saw, as I think I did on walk in when I got off the night bus from Oaxaca too, where the colectivos from here to San Cris go when I was going to Santander ATM this afternoon, so I am reasonably confident of a fuss-free journey to San Cris when I return from El Chiflon.)

1911 Just had a look at BA site, the seat booking is wide open albeit at the usual insane prices. There is a half decent aisle seat available at £42. I may book this tomorrow. I need to get it sorted but it does grate. Still, as I think I've said at length before, apart from my tendency to get stressed about it last minute, waiting until the last minute to see if I get a decent seat for free and then hoping I can pay ~£42 to change it if necessary is not ideal, partly because with this being a night flight I am likely to piss people off/feel more trapped if I am not in an aisle seat and thus can't get up whenever I want without waking people up, plus although (and I am perhaps being a bit unfair) Cancun is not exactly a destination I intend to be actively "enjoying" on my last night, even so it is not ideal if I am farting around (perhaps even from a dorm/hostel common area, though ideally not given I like a private to do my packing in etc on the last night) at 1840 on my last night frantically trying to sort out my seat rather than being free to do whatever I want (talk to people, have a beer somewhere) - this is a bit different compared to flying out when I am naturally at home when online checkin opens, and I have a computer with a big screen and space to pace around and "panic" in if I don't like my free seat, etc. So as I say, if I am farting around trying to change my seat at online check in, it could spoil the last night of my trip by constraining where I can be, plus there is the extra importance to me on the night flight of an aisle seat, plus not wanting to be worrying about seats as the end of trip draws near and things start to feel a bit stressful and sad and "I just wish I was back home already because the last day or two is so faffy" type stuff comes on.

So I will probably pay for the damn seat in the next day or two but at least I have had a quick look now. And at least I haven't "always" paid for a seat so - although I suspect this isnt't actually the case - if as someone suggested they see that I have in the past (the CR trip) "always" been willing to pay for a seat they may have raised the prices *for me* to take advantage of that attitude on my part, I have at least slightly confounded this bit of their modelling. But I suspect they don't do this and they have just put the damn prices up for everyone, although obviously I have no way to really know.

This has at least confirmed the flight date is Tue 11 Mar. I was 99% sure already having eg checking the saved itinerary PDF on my phone, but always good to confirm.

2002 I did also like the ball courts at Tenam Puente BTW, they were well preserved and quite evocative somehow.

2051 Been for a walk round square, probably only out about half an hour. Not deserted by any means but probably not as busy as yesterday. Even half hour felt slightly milking it but not too bad. Got another cup of that biscuity drink, I asked what it was called and thought I heard well but it being turned over in my mind without being written down may have mutated it. I think it was "azole de galleta", the first word being the dubious one, but this at least may be good enough for a web search to turn up a definitive answer.

Forgot to say that while at Tenam Puente I saw a caterpillar hanging in the air. I thought at first it was caught on a spider web but then realised there were in fact four caterpillars spaced out along a single (?) vertical thread over maybe a couple of metres all hanging in the air writhing. Sort of cool and interesting though I have no idea what would be going on, or how (since I assume they are each emitting a thread of their own) they are all on the same thread - perhaps (they were swinging quite a bit in the light breeze) they all have their own thread but as they swing around the threads entwine.

2100 Also been meaning to note two independent observations:

- there are quite a lot of reasonably good condition VW Beetles here, I have a vague feeling perhaps more than in other parts of Mexico I have been in but not too sure.

- the 5%ish of people wearing face masks seems to be a thing here too. Quite a few staff (but not all) seem to wear them, I don't think this can be compulsory given by no means all or even most staff are wearing them, but hard to say. The waiter who chatted briefly to me at La Esquina was wearing a mask but it was pulled down. (As elsewhere, there are *loads* of "masks obligatory" and "how to deal with covid 19" signs and posters and stickers everywhere, but I don't think these have any real relevance, people obviously just like having them around as reminders of the good times.)

2223 ok, watched a bit of yt, did teeth, had shower. Very lightly packed but probably makes more sense to do most of it (there isn't much really) in the norning. Will set alarm for 7 but if I snooze 15ish mins that is probably fine. I don't actually know when first colectivo to el chiflon is but I suspect it be no later than 8. I do want to get there as early as possible to have time to walk the whole path calmly-ish and ideally at least toy with swimming but I am not to 15 or 30 mins.

Done bloody Duolingo and about to go to bed.

Monday, 24 February 2025

Comitan, Sunday

Sun 1832 In room with bt keyboard.

Things are sort of coming together but I also feel a tiny bit edgy. Maybe writing about it will help, so let me do this before writing up the day proper.

I was having a coffee (two actually) at the deserted yet again Cafe Bar Central this afternoon and feeling reasonably meditative and "well, not doing much, but this is quite a nice way to not be doing much". No idea how the place can stay open, it didn't iirc look busy last night either and I was the only custome there yesterday despite it being weekend both days and square quite busy. Anyway. I was mentally totting up how much cash I have and how much I might need for rest of trip. Very rough estimate is I might need 8000 pesos for rest of trip and I maybe have about 3k, so doing another withdrawal of my usual 7k is not too unreasonable.

I went back to hotel and started poking at online accom, the guide book and a web site I found recommending staying overnight at El Chiflon. If I didn't already say the basic plan here is to visit Tenam Puente tomorrow, stay at this hotel again tomorrow night and then on Tuesday go over to El Chiflon early and either spend the day there then come back to Comitan for the night or stay over at EC. Either way I would have the option to extend further in EC or Comitan but I would probably go back to San Cris and the hostel there on Wednesday during the day unless something particularly attractive comes up.

I did see on the web that it would probably be 700 a night for a cabin at EC but I WAed them anyway and long story short I have reserved for Tuesday. Only while going out for a little walk before deciding what to do about hotel for tomorrow night did I realise I'd played myself a bit - I had been mentally comparing that 700 with the 500ish I have been paying here for *two* nights, so rather than being "a bit more" it is "double, and then a bit more" as it is 700 for one night. But it is OK, it might be nice and it might allow me to be a bit more relaxed at EC and it just may help with the bloody swimming angle (although the website I saw says it is cold, so I can't imagine being in that long) - you know, the "no lockers but I have my phone with me so what if my bag gets stolen while I am in the water and how would I get back home if my bag was stolen" aspect. If I have localish accom I can potentially have the P7 with me when I am hiking for good photos and go back to accom and swap over to the O6 or no phone at all for swimming, and if my bag gets stolen I am only a km or two's walk from my accom without any clothes except soaking swimming trunks or money rather than a colectivo ride away etc etc.

I do I think broadly have time to extend for a second night at EC - one night is never super relaxed, but I can apparently check in from 8am and I do hope to get over there super early and I might sort of have the morning of the following day too (although if I am going over to San Cris that same day I have maybe 3-4h of buses to take and would like to be at SC hostel before dark despite semi feeling SC is OK after dark). At 700 a night I am less likely to extend for a second night (obviously there may not be availability but it is low season and it is expensiveish so I rather suspect I could get a cabin for wed night if I want) but you never know - that is about £28 which is expensive but tolerable for a night or two and if it is nice it would be silly to spoil the fun for the sake of that amount of money.

So while I went for my little walk maybe 1730-1800 ish I thought I might try to withdraw some cash. I am trying my Chase card here. I tried HSBC, Banco Azteca (a cash machine in a motorbike shop!) and BBVA (thinking they might not suck with Chase, as they do with Starling) and was offered fees of something like 94, 130 and 194. I literally LOLed at BBVA's insultingly high fee right there in the cash machine lobby. I checked my notes and Santander+Chase only charge 34, OM has a Santander machine where the Banco Azteca is but also shows a Santander out on the main highway and I just may go over there tomorrow if I have time, I figured it wasn't smart to be heading out there (1.6ish km straight line each way) as it was getting towards dark with no real pressing need for cash right now. If I can't get a Santander machine I will go with HSBC, their fee is shit but not awful.

When I got back just now I checked the price for a room here on booking.com and it is about 255. I spoke to the actually quite nice bloke on reception (the same one who checked me in) and asked about this and he said that their list price is 280 (it shows on the wall) but the best he could do was 250. He acted as though booking.com (I showed him my phone while badly asking in Spanish if he could beat that price) was cheaper, perhaps cos he was only seeing the before-tax price. But anyway it was all amicable and I checked with him and I can just book on booking.com and keep my room and I don't need to go to reception to discuss it, so I will probably do that but I am writing this up first. There are AFAICS no bad reviews about fuckery with extensions and charging extra on checkout on booking.com so maybe it was another hotel that had those. But anyway, I figure I will go  with booking.com because it is only about 5 pesos more expensive and I will be able to pay on credit card (that is how it is set up for this hotel, often you book and then pay cash on arrival for hostels) which will reduce demands on my cash (and I already paid on card once so privacy impact is negligible) and also give me a no-quibble guarantee in the sense they cannot deny I have paid, and if (as has sometimes happened with extension bookings via booking.com) they claim I am a no show it shouldn't matter given I paid the full price up front anyway.

Oh, at the start of the cash machine walk I went to where OM/the guide book say you can get colectivos to EC and Tenam Puente and I found the relevant mini terminals just fine, so that sets me up hopefully for an easy early departure tomorrow and Tuesday.

I am not planning a big evening out but since it is a weekend and it is a bit dull sitting in room on own I do plan to go out for a bit of a stroll round the main square (it is literally a block away) after dark.

I got some weird colourful biscuit things (10 each) at a stall in nearby street on way back from that walk and also broke a 500 and got a bottle of cold sparkling water at Oxxo as I did last night too. (There is supposedly free drinking water here but I didn't see any in reception, I should maybe ask next time I pass through, but I have been using my lifestraw and it is nice to buy a bit of fizzy water etc.) The biscuits - have only had one so far, might have the other now, seem to be coloured but probably arbitrarily so and are probably mainly sugar and coconut.

I saw earlier that at Famacias Similares you can pay 60 (75 on weekends) for a medical consultation, and the procedures seem to cost double to low triple digit prices - the only one I specifically remember is "removal of a whole nail" (!) for 220 or so.

I didn't sleep great but not too bad. Dithered around at hotel in the morning a bit stupidly and probably didn't head out til getting on for 11. I went and wandered round a bit and found a bakery and got a couple of pastry/cake things (one of which was a very nice and probably very sugary horn of plenty looking thing stuffed full of a white sweet creamy stuff, the other probably a concha) for 28 and also separately got a 600ml bottle of Pepsi Black for only 16 in an Oxxo. I went to museo Belisario Dominguez which was quite cool but it seems museum here shut by about 2 on Sunday because I was in the final room and without a word being spoken I heard and then saw a woman going round shutting the doors to all the rooms round the courtyard and basically shuffled myself out (she locked the door I had come out of behind me), which was a bit annoying although I had nearly finished and it was only 20 to get in, and I was still grateful for the event there last night.

I then went and had lunch at a cheap but cheerful chinese place called Golden Express which I had found during my bakery seeking peregrination earlier, got a big plate piled up with noodles, ribs, chicken in sauce and a spring roll plus a probably full fat coke for 150. Yes yes it isn't authentic but sod it. The other customers were all Mexicans so it is kind of local. :-)

I was then going to go to the Museo Hermilia Dominguez but unsurprisingly it was shut. Not a huge loss but a bit annoying as it does mean I haven't done much today, but I did wander round and quietly enjoy myself on the whole and I have sorted out the next couple of days and kind of relaxed so I can't really complain. So at this point it was maybe 4ish but not sure and I went for that coffe at Central and that's what I have already written up.

The clothes I washed yesterday are mostly dry (uw always takes longer but it is not too bad) and since I am 95% certainly extending for tomorrow night I may do another wash now and book the extension and then go out for a wander and try to get to bed early-ish so I can be up maybe 7ish and get the first 730ish colectivo to Tenam Puente.

TP and EC is not the extent of everything you can do locally, but I don't generally think it's possible or desirable to completely do everything. Even without the worries about some stuff which is right on the border and thus advised against all but essential travel, it is good to leave some stuff for a future visit, and you just can't see everything in the world so it is silly to fret about not doing everything there is to do here, as doing that would mean I don't do something else etc etc.

I think if I can do TP tomorrow and then EC the day after (and just possibly two days depending how nice it is ec) I will feel I've had a solid visit to Comitan and environs without rushing around like crazy. Yes tomorrow and Tuesday will both involve buses, but just local colectivo services, not major journeys like Oaxaca to here.

1905 OK, I am not doing the laundry just now. I could, but it probably makes more sense to do that after I come back from a little walk, then I can shower and wash the clothes I just took off (the only dirty ones I have right now) and go straight to bed, rather than putting on a fresh set of clothes just to go for my little walk.

1. I am feeling some vague "time is ticking away" pressure but it is on the whole OK I think. As I say I feel like while sort of wasteful I had a kind of slow travel mildly pleasant wander round Comitan for the second-ish day today - oh, the weather today was pretty sunny and borderline too hot except in the shade, it feels pretty much like I remember San Cris being which would make sense given then altitudes are the same and they are something like 60ish km apart - and I have some not excessively demanding touristing lined up for the next two days with a probable option to extend in EC for an extra night if I want, then hopefully back to the hostel in SC (which I hope won't be disappointing) for a few nights before starting to worry about getting back to Cancun. In some sense I would rather get back to SC on Thu than Wed given both the town and hostel activities I am most interested in are more Thu-Sun than Wed (not saying I will stay til Sun tho) but if I have "finished" with Comitan and environs for this trip on Wednesday then so be it. I am trying to keep my expecations of SC hostel contained, it wasn't outstandingly fantastic in general but it was reasonably social and there is a chance it could be fun depending on what new guests etc happen to be there. I think the main thing I would like to do is the quiz (probably Friday night, but it did move to Thursday one week I was there IIRC) and I may pay for a second fucking attempt at Sumidero tour while I am there which will profitably fill one of the days. I could well see myself leaving Sat-ish in order not to feel too rushed for the remainder of the trip depending on how fun it is and what is happening and what the situation looks like wrt getting flights vs buses back towards Cancun and so on.

I sort of digressed. I guess the point is that more-or-less I am "doing" Comitan and environs in a relative relaxed and not too stressed out way, much as I probably would if I still had (say) 2 months of my trip left rather than 2-and-a-bit weeks. As time goes on there is inevitably going to be more (and reasonably justified) "really got to keep moving on, I don't have time to spend an extra day here" stuff but at the moment I think I am successfully avoiding it without unintentionally storing up unnecessary pain for later in the trip.

I ought to go book this hotel for tomorrow, then that is sorted. especially given the reassuring conversation with the guy at reception there is really no reason not to book, even if I were going to do EC as a day trip from here instead of staying over it would still be desirable to have a booking here for tomorrow night given my plan to go to TP tomorrow. (There maybe some rain next couple of days but it can't be helped and shouldn't be too intense. I may take my jacket with me tomorrow but probably not my overtrousers.)

I hope to treat TP like Monte Alban and Mitla - go round the site at my own pace and not rush off (and barring the pseudo need to withdraw money when I get back to Comitan tomorrow afternoon I don't have any pressing demands on my time for the rest of the day) but also not absolutely milk it and make myself miserable and feel I "ought" to spend hours there just because I can and don't have anything else to do etc etc.

1928 OK, just booked hotel for tomorrow night and also finished the chapulines which had been in a plastic bag in my knee pocket since I bought them and had been eating a few a day. Made an effort to get all the little bits out of the bottom of bag so as not to waste any, didn't get absolutely everything but most of it.

1932 just popped over to reception a) to casually mentioned I booked for tomorrow night, guy was fine about it and I probably didn't need to tell him but now I have b) to ask about drinking water and they do have a water bottle in there on a dispenser and he let me half fill my admittedly large disposable bottle which felt a tiny bit restrictive but also sort of makes limited sense and isn't a big deal and I can get more (in a smaller bottle) tomorrow if I want and I have my filter anyway.

I have put my waterproof jacket in daypack ready for tomorrow, mildly annoying but it isn't that heavy and there is no point lugging these things round in my main bag if I don't use them when potential need arises.

I will probably drink a bit more of my cold sparkling water and go out for a bit of a wander just round main square. Won't probably be as extensive in distance or time as last night and given it was feeling chilly just before dark I am unlikely to stay out for a beer (plus it would be nice to have a day off alcohol, not that I have drunk much lately but there has been something most days) but I just might have a coffee or two etc.

Feel a tiny bit stressed about getting up early tomorrow but if I make an effort I will be pleased with myself etc and it would be good to be at TP as early as possible to help beat the heat.

I understand there are two "sides" at EC and I suppose it is possible I will consider putting in Wed night staying at a cabin on the other side, but we will see how thing look when I get there and I think it would probably be OK to only do the one side at least this time. But if it is nice and not causing of rushing or insanely expensive etc I do have time to do both.

2045 OK, I went out for a little wander maybe 8ish. (It isn't on the blog of course, but in the unlikely event Future Me is curious about details like this, the GPS tracks I record while I'm away should give a lot more detail on exactly where I when and when.)

That reminds me, this morning the first thing I did on leaving hotel was to go to Iglesia de San Caralampio and surroundings, which are v near hotel and which guide book makes out are in one of the very different barrios of the town. I couldn't see much obvious difference and the guide book mentions no other barrios so fuck knows. I have wandered round a moderate bit of the town, including the lengthyish walk from OCC terminal into centre. There was a mostly non-operational fair and market set up round the church (I did poke my head in but not sure if took a photo given it was Sunday and people were maybe in there for service or something) and I bought some probably overpriced and not that great but also still kind of nice french fries for 40 (which came with a few bits of frankfurterish processed meat sausage).

Anyway, back to tonight, I was oddly cheered to see that a little fake train I had spotted at the side of the square earlier today and which I had taken as a stationary children's plaything was in fact driving round the square with kids on it and their parents following round at walking pace.

There were quite a lot of people about, CB Central seemed empty or nearly so and I was tempted to get a coffee but didn't. I wandered round the square once or twice and then saw people with polystyrene cups at some of the food stalls set up and I was going to ask if they had coffe but as I was waiting around not sure if there was a queue etc I saw they were actually serving some kind of soup (they had multiple thermos type "big flask cylinders" so may have had coffee too for all I know) and when I did get served I asked what it was but didn't catch much except the word "galleta" (which I momentarily mistook as "gallina") but it was only 15 so I got some and it was actually quite a nice sweetish biscuity (power of suggestion? I suspect it really did taste like that) thickish drink. I wandered round the square drinking that and followed the train round a bit and then - not wanting to milk it - I finished the drink and came back to the hotel.

I keep talking about milking it but I do think this is kind of important. Yes it is important not to rush off when you're doing something fun or memorable (even if in a low key kind of way) when you have nothing more to do than maybe a bit of laundry or shaving or going to bed or watching a YT video back at your accommodation, but it is also important not to drag things out and say "FFS, I have to soak in every possible moment of this, I am getting a bit bored and maybe the magic is fading but I had better keep walking round or sit here for another half hour or hour or whatever all the same". That risks turning a nice memory into something a little bit crappy and so on.

They also had tamales at this stall - other people asked and I saw them - as well as other things, they appearently only had tamales of "raja" (no idea how that is spelt) and I had no idea what that was and the not great dictionary app on my phone doesn't clarify even if I am spelling it right, and I also thought I'd stick with trying the soup instead. I may well go for another wander round the square tomorrow (probably my last night here) and may eat something else eg a tamal. This stall was pretty busy so I figure it passes the test for "safe" street food. (I maybe took a chance with the french fries this morning, and perhaps with the coconut sweet things although with the latter I figure it's cold food and a sweet so somehow - not sure if this is rational or not - it feels less likely to be prone to having whatever causes food poisoning.)

I did briefly experiment this afternoon seeing if I could plug my USB backup memory stick (which has some DVD rips on it which I delete as necessary to fill up space) into the room TV to in theory watch a film on, but although I managed to get the stick into a socket on the back (the TV is high on the wall and tightish against it and even using phone camera I am far from sure there was actually a USB port) I couldn't persuade the TV to show the contents of a USB stick, there may simply be no USB support. Not a big deal but I thought I'd note this wrt a possible benefit of having a few favourite films on a DVD to maybe watch on a TV instead of on phone.

2058 Let me clean my teeth and shower and shave and maybe do some laundry. I may watch a bit of YT afterwards depending how early it is and how I feel.

2135 OK, had shower and shave and somewhat inefficient laundry, since I am doing just one set of uw and one top and as I like to wash uw and non uw separately that is two separate washes for just one full set - it is more efficient to do two or three sets of uw together one night and two or three tops another night, but since I am using destroyer tactics here and trying to take advantage of having private bathroom plus a day of drying time it can't be helped.

FWIW - not sure if it is just a bit "not so rubbery" or it is generally not that useful - I never seem to find my universal sink stopper handy for laundry in sinks, I think I always end up using a sock to plug the hole. I am hanging the clothes up on a rail in a wardrobe-ish alcove (with a couple of hangers for tops) and aren't using my travel clothes line and haven't the whole trip. I should maybe stop carrying it round, although as always maybe if I more regularly had private bathrooms it would get more use.

If I didn't already say I saw a sign for "Xoo Yaguar" (or maybe "Yaguar Xoo" but probably not) on drive back from Mitla and something about these words and their spelling and conjuction tickled me. The Australian woman (I don't believe I ever knew her name BTW) at the language exchange that night told me "Xoo" is a local language and isn't derived from English "zoo" and it means something more like "refuge", but it still tickled me. This place sounds like a "rescate los pumas" deal and it might have been cool to go, but something for another time given the time constraints I was under.

It is not that late even for a 7am getting up so I think I will watch a bit of YT before bed. I don't think there is anything else I need to do - oh yes, except for FUCKING DUOLINGO, which I will do in a second - so I will probably send this before I start watching YT and if anything really important happens I will just start a fresh entry.

I really need to reconsider Duolingo when I get back home, I am far from sure I am really learning anything and it is maddening as hell without a real physical keyboard (and in landscape mode as I tried last night since I did have the BT keyboard out, a) sod's law dictated I got no free typing exercises anyway for once b) the interface doesn't fit on the screen without scrollig so it is annoying as hell in a different way) and I have this nasty feeling of being played by the stupid compulsion to keep the streak going even though I have enough gems to just keep buying streak freezes for months if not years if I wanted so the streak is kind of meaningless.

Sunday, 23 February 2025

Oaxaca City, Thursday and Oaxaca City-Comitan

Fri 0942 need to write up yesterday, didn't get chance to do it yesterday.

Didn't sleep brilliantly - dorm bed feels practically domed, higher in centre and falling off in all directions - but not too bad. Probably in bed about midnight, think over up and had not-bustinf piss at some point in night, I probably finally woke up about 7ish but lingered in bed deliberately until 830ish as I am in no rush except for booking bus and won't have a bed tonight and am clinging on in hostel til checkout at 12 and may ask if I can pay extra to stay here with no bed during day.

Need to decide about bus. It basically comes down to 1900-0440 or 2030-0540. The latter is a couple I'd hundred pesos more but that is mostly irrelevant. My gut feeling is to go with the former, as it is compatible with walking to the terminal here in daylight and while it means an extra hour probably hanging around in terminal in San cris (until sunrise or first collectivo to comitan, although just possibly if there is one I may apkurge on an OCC/ado bus from sane terminal to comitan), that is not really so different from hanging around at the terminal here if I have to go over super early to walk there in daylight, and since I am not going to have a "comfortable" base to lurk in even if I do get a taxi to the terminal the extra comfort is minimal.

Plus while i don't want to tempt fate with attitude or actions, I would probably feel safer venturing out in San cris in the last bit of darkness before dawn than being on the streets in much larger oaxaca after dark (albeit still early evening, but terminal is a modest walk out of the centre).

Have eaten my rather battered bimbo raisin bread thing maybe 15 mins ago, I will get something easier to eat and less battered for the bus and I figure I can always put off going to Los sabores de la chef til say 2 or 3 so having eaten earlier is no bad thing. Maybe a bit boring going to lsdlc again but it is a solid meal and moderately healthy (eg some vegetables, rice) and it is probably a good thing to eat it while I can and to fortify myself for the bus and longish day tomorrow. Incidentally saw a poster in there yesterday and they apparently have a Puerto Escondido branch which I didn't know about, wish I had seen that before I went.

I do need to book the bus but let me start to write yesterday up while i still have power available to top up phone after. Two other people both on their own reading (one an actual book) so won't use voice typing and haven't been. In theory I could go get my reading glasses and BT keyboard. Ffs it feels a FAFF but I suppose I ought to.

1007 JFC. Put p7 in pocket, went to get keyboard, two mins later p7 has hard locked, screen black, massively unresponsive to attempts to reboot. And the keyboard battery is dead. And I had to come back to dorm jugging two pairs of glasses and the keyboard and the phone.

Going to copy photos to USB just in case.

1047 Yay! 40ish mins of power and table-available time wasted copying stuff to usb. Back on terrace with the fucking BT keyboard, though to be fair it is of coure blameless here.

I still havent booked the bus, I will probably do it in 30ish mins.

I do now have the terrace to myself and could voice type but th keyboard is better now I have it out.

So I woke up 7ish yesterday but stayed in bed a bit late and although I wasnt really late I didnt get changed into the dorm til about 915ish so I maybe lost 15-30 mins compared to the 9 we had agreed. I asked and woman at recetion recomended collectivo to Mitla and I went and got one no major problem, thanks in part to her telling me the color of the cars. It was about an hour each way and cost 50 pesos, I was expecting 25 each way but the locals seemed to be charged the same too.

Walked over to the site no problem, calling in at the rather bare south site (and I checked out the "west" site afterwards), went into the church as I came past it and paid my 100 and went in.

Tried not to milk it. I also felt a tiny bit harried, given the need to collect laundry and to go to the lang exchange, which I tried not to let affect me too much. I could potentially have gone over to hierve el agua too but it would probably have been rammed if guide book is to be believed and I also probably did go there in 2010 and I can always go on my next visit. In the end i think I did the site justice and while I wish my mnd had been a little more at ease it was generally OK.

I ended up sharing the front seat (!) of the return colectivo with a fortunately slim young woman who perhaps knew the driver - these were cars, not minibuses - but not too uncomfortable actually.

Went to LSDLC afterwards, with the aid of the GPS tag on the photos I snapped in there on my first visit I was able to identify the second location and went to that one as it felt slightly nicer - and for whatever reason you pay afterwards rather than upfront there compared to other one. I ate about the right amount and felt moderatey stuffed but not sick. Went and picked laundry up and checked it in the shop and it was all fine.

Dithered around hostel a bit and forced myself to book Comitan accom (which I had free cancellation on u to midnight, just in case I got told about anything amazing here in Oaxaca at the lang exch - i wasn't) and also a bloody split train ticket to go visit family when I get back to London. Not done flight seats yet but touch wood these will not get shittier until about 3 days before flight, whereas train ticket prices would be creeping up daily. I do intend to do the flight seats soon, but I didnt want to do it in a rush yesterday.

Walked over to lang exch which appeared to have started earlier than advertised so it was already pretty full but not a big deal. Some kind of procession with some people wearing the big character figures I have seen round the central streets going on zocalo-ish as I passed, I watched briefly and snapped a few not very good videos and photos. I had taken the O6 with me just in case of mugging on way home and it seems to be going through a phase of locking up and entering crashdump mode.

LE not bad. We did speak a lot of English but did get to speak some Spanish with native speakers as well as with my fellow learners. Met woman from australia who lives in gran canaria and a couple of local Oaxacans and a bloke from the US and a few others who I spoke to a bit less. It was quite social and comfortable and while not perhaps as intensively spanishy as I might have liked it was good to talk to both locals an expats in a friendly way. There was very low key karaoke later on from about 9 and in the end - noticing almost that no one was even paying attention to the singers a lot of the time, and that some people were just as awful as me - I sang "muerte en hawaii" and didn't make too much of a hash of it.

I left about 1130 I think - australian woman had told me it was a bit iffy after 11 but then backed down slightly and I felt it was probably OK - and got back no problem maybe midnight and cleaned teeth and went to bed and discovered the domeyness of it but not a huge deal.

It had definitely thinned out a bit by then with a lot of the foreigners gone. I was chatting with a Oaxacan called Gustavo who might have invited me out for a pizza but it was a bit unclear and I didnt feel it was smart anyway so we sort of let the idea drop with no hard feelings.

I was and am a bit sad to be leaving but the usual wafflings apply. Oh, people told me the grasshoppers sold in the street are often from Puebla and are not the famous Oaxacan ones and have no taste. I was dithering anyway but since I am really not that fussed I think I will probably not bother forcing myself to try any. Yes it would be a bit of a story to tell but not much of one and I am not really that bothered, except for vague missing out/regret type thoughts. Also the attempts I see to force crickets into general food make me reconsider a bit, I have no fundamental objection to people eating insects or even doing it myself, but I resent being coerced and lectured about it.

All the options for the bus suck a bit but none are massive trip-ruiningly awful and fingers crossed will be rapidly forgotten once I am in bed in Comitan tomorrow night maybe 8ish. I think I will book online for the 1900ish one in a few minutes.

While I remember, Mason and maybe Jim were talking in San Cris about buying property nearby and I think Mason said he was looking at a biggish house with some land for USD7000. OTOH, and I suppose it is possible both could be true, one of the several real estate agents in Zipolite was advertising what was probably a condo for USD250k. (It is also evidence of how different people can be that presumably some people go to Zipolite and think "OMFG, this is paradise, I want to live here", which I find difficult to understand on an emotional level even if intellectually I can accept that some people would.)

It is quite nice - and would probably be better with more practice - writing on the BT keyboard, albeit I am still getting a bit of a crick in back from perhaps poor table/chair/posture/tendency to lean forward. It is not as good as a real computer with proper keyboard and monitor but I do feel I am able to express myself with less pain than with the onscreen keyboard (where I think the trick is to watch the keyboard as you type and not try to assume you can get the positions from memory or that the autocorrect will fix it, but it is still annoying because you type a word like sabores and it gets auto corrected to Angeles and if you dont *immediately* backspace you get stuck with the correction and have to retype the damn thing again, then repeat that a time or two more) or the voice typing (which does get words wrong and will just throw away chunks it doesnt unerstand with no warning so you have to be careful to keep an eye on what it wrote and remember what yo said, not to mention the privacy concerns if you are not in a private room.)

It pains me that this blog will probably seem illiterate or slapdash when I come to read it in future compared to most of my earlier entries but it can't be helped and it is better to have something than nothing.

1109 FFS, let's book the bus. Need to remember that while sucky none of this is terrible or long term, it will all be over tomorrow evening, even kind of tomorrow midday as that is when the official check in is.

1854 ffs. On bus. The guy checking tickets would not let me bring my bag on even though it would have trivially fitted in the overhead rack. As I was forced to check it and I had been rushed at the terninal, I had to hastily pit the necessary stiff in my saypack and forgot the fleece which is needed in case aircon gets fierce and cos it had headphones in pkcket so I had to jump off and ask the guy filling boot if I could get something out of vag, luckily he was cool about it. Absolutely no reason not to let me bring  the main bag on. It maybe looked a smidge bigger as I had had to open it for an ultra cursory security inspection and I was a smidge rushed but anyway just utterly unreasonable.

I got to terminal 45 mins early but called parents and also realised the bus actually goes to xonitan so went to ticket booths to discuss an extension and long story short I couldn't keep my seat if we change the tk ket so I bought a second ticket from San cris to comitan but for stupid glitchy reasons I couldn't book the same aeat because it somehow got reserved by our earlier booking attempts and after waiting 10 mins and returning it was still reserved so I didn't want to wait longer as we were getting close to bus time and so I got her to sell me the currently free seat next to me  so with luck I won't have to but if I have to move over to the next aeat in San cris not end of world.

I therefore has no time to patiently pack saypack which has been carrying round all day so didn't eg want fleece and USB cables and power bank in it and hence rushing already described when I had to put my bag in boot for no good reason at all. I ficking hope I have everything I will want, and even if I do it is much more reassuring to have my bag under my eye and to know that push comes to shove i can get anything I want out. But can't be helped.

Today has actually been pretty good touristing. I hung around hostel too 12 and left my bag there. I then went and had an ice cream, went to museo de las culturas (not bad,  but just to be arsey you not allowed to take liquids in so I left my bag with my water in at the free cloakroom).

1902 we are pulling out so will stop writing.

2231 Tehuantepec.

Mdlc not bad, building itself the highlight though. Annoying medieval war type film playing over speakers on bus too loudly.

When came out was another procession with still walkers etc, took some bad photos and video and went to eat at sabores. Felt mildly stuffed but just about OK. Went into the market after, it is a mix of local vendors and some almost airport level tourist good shops quite swanky. I saw some people selling chapulines and dithered but decided to buy some, 20 for a small scoop full. I tried them out on the street later (I was feeling quite full as went round market) - I got the con Chile ones and they so basically just taste of chilli and aren't tremendously threatening or weird, mahbe a tiny 5pc ick factor at most.

2235 off again.

2303 juchitan.

Having ticked off the chapulines (but not the fat bottomed ant things which I learned the name of last night but can't remember, or the grub type things I saw being sold by the grasshopper sellers - maybe next time) I was going to go to cafe Trebol and did but it was shut, so I went to el cantabrico on the zocalo and got a mezcal so I had had one in oaxaca which felt like a good thing to do. It was maybe a bit smoky butbitheriwse hard for me tovdeacribe, not bad. Probably had mezcal before anyway but fwiw. Had a couple of coffees as well and did a bit of vague people watching and it was kind of nice to be there in the nakn square and tho the mezcal was a bit pricey (100, plus about 55 for each coffee then tjp) it was probably worth it.

Then back to hostel, got bag and sneakily cleaned teeth and walked over to bus terminal in daylight no fuss.

So I think that is about me caught up. Bum hurting a bit from sitting and toilet on bus is a bit rank but at least it is there.

A collectivo from San cris to comitan might be cheaper than the modest 78 pesos for the extra travel but this way I get to stay on this bus longer which is good as it will likely take me to daylight, plus FWIW this bus has the toilet and a colectivo wouldn't.

Annoying film was The Northman. It has finished now and with luck there won't be another film. Been listening to music on phone with Nc headphones but they can't completely block the loud fight noises and dramatic music from film.

Was able to charge p7 up from USB socket on bus, having grabbed USB cable during my hasty transfer before getting on bus. So I am probably fine for power, and I do have my full powerbank too and the o6 is turned off with a near full battery too.

I had a few Chapulines on the bus earlier too, but still have some in bag in my pocket and will eat them tomorrow in daylight, somehow eating them in the dark feels a bit wrong/cheating/over casual.

I picked mezcal convite espadin esencial at random off the list at el cantabrico, it was third or fourth cheapest, absolute cheapest was IIRC 90.

Sat 2217 In room at hotel with wireless keyboard, I do actually have a desk and chair. Not a bad day's touristing as it turned out. But let me resume the narrative where I left off.

So I did kind of fall asleep on the bus. We didn't get stopped for any passport checks. We did arrive at San Cris about 0440 and I was pretty glad I didn't have to get off. There was that womb-ish feeling, albeit the womb wasn't super comfortable and I wasn't looking forward to being birthed shortly. It was at least daylight when we came into Comitan. An old and presumably Mexican woman asked me where to get a taxi while I was fiddling with my bag in the terminal after getting off, which is somehow vaguely flattering as it suggests I am not too obviously a tourist (but I said I was).

Trogged over to hotel, no problem although I started going down a very slightly rural looking lane and saw a down outside a house which would probably have been no problem but turned round and walked a slightly longer way round.

Got to hostel about 7 and the slightly odd guy at reception checked me in and took me to the room without me asking. I had been half fantasising about getting into the room and going to bed while on the bus, though had dithered about whether it would actually be a good thing or not. I was grateful but my gratitude wa diminished (perhaps reinforcing an already half learned life/psychology lesson my part here) by him telling me  in Spanish that it meant double the cost (to them I assume, not me!) for the light and water but that on this occasion he would let me check in early. Which is silly. I do appreciate it, but in practice I had the light on for about 15 mins and went to the toilet and other than that all I've done is soil the sheets for an extra few hours but they are not going to be laundered until I leave anyway, so there is no extra load/cost there.

I did go to bed although I had slept a bit (badlyish) on the bus, but didn't go straight to sleep, and in the end I was kind of weirdly cold and shoulders hurt a bit at times (probably from the bus) and I was drifting in and out of sleep in a vaguely uncomfortable way and I eventually forced myself to get up about 1 after snoozing quite a bit on 11ish alarm I had originally set.

I had a (cold; the water was hot this evening when I noticed by accident while doing some laundry in the sink, but it wasn't hot this afternoon) shower and put some clean clothes on and went out for a wander, with food being primary goal. Maybe it's weak but I kind of fancied pizza rather than faffing with local stuff and worrying about sauces and stuff. Apart from a dried up looking "by the slice" stall and a littered flyer for an address some way out of centre I didn't find any naturally but looked on OM and trogged over to Yungla pizza where I had a not bad but a bit pricey Pizza Yungla.

The weather was intermittently sunny and over warm and mostly overcast and just a smidge cold. It feels a bit odd when altitude is perhaps same as Oaxaca (not double checked) but maybe the climate this few hundred km east is different - I have only had <1 day of experience with it here so may be just randomess, but this does feel a bit like San Cris climate but maybe a bit colder. It even spat with rain very lightly as I was coming out of Yungla.

Anyway, so I wandered some more, there are some niceish (colourful) market stalls off some streets near main square (including some with lots of those claw gaming machines). The main square is full of valentine's day "structures", hearts and "love" and "amor" big writing. Sort of cool to see it though.

I went to the free archaeological museum and did actually get mildly into reading about all the different epochs of the local culture pre-conquista, having seen the terms before but at least not remembering reading much detailed description.

That took me to about 1630 and I went and had a couple of white coffees on the square (but sat inside, and FWIW was wearing fleece, as in San Cris this felt like the sort of place where carrying it round was desirable) at Cafe-Bar Central and then went back to hotel to call parents and do a bit of laundry and leave a couple of reviews on booking.com. I had toyed with having a quiet night in but as it was Saturday I had been saying to myself when I came back from coffees at CBC that I would go out again and have a beer or two.

Will interject at this point to say that back in Oaxaca I was a bit worried Comitan was closer than the FCDO 40km border exclusion from the Guatemala border at this point - I didn't look too hard but I couldn't find a way to measure distance between arbitary points in OM, but now I am here I can measure the distance between my location and an arbitrary point, and I not that close. I will probably avoid the I think archaelogical site right on the border but there are a couple of nearby things I will probably go to which are SW-ish of here and probably fine. That will be day after tomorrow, plan for tomorrow is to see some of the districts of the town and do some museums and do a bit of general wandering and so on.

Let me also say that while in CBC having coffee I was mildly pleasantly appreciating being here in Mexico and in Comitan (where it feels like I am the only gringo; not 100% sure I haven't seen a few others, but we are scarce and the other possibles have looked a bit odd somehow and eg might be white Mexicans for all I know, still, it does feel kind of cool to feel I have got a bit off the beaten track) and also reflecting that I have 2 and a bit weeks left and that is a long time but it is the getting back to Cancun that is the issue. If I were in (modulo fear of getting mugged) Mexico City, say, and was flying back from there, if I had 2.5 weeks in MC left I would hardly be thinking "hmm, got to get back soon" all the time (assuming I wanted to be there, I would be thnking "wow, I have 2.5 weeks to explore MC"), but as it is the problem is I am far enough away from my flight that is *is* a concern. This isn't a complaint as such or blaming myself for eg going to Oaxaca, just an observation. I still may fly back from eg Tuxtla but we will see how things go.

So I did go out about 1930 feeling mildly edgy for no reason and was actually genuinely almost childishly delighted to see all the valentines stuff in the main square was illuminated and it felt oddly cool. I bought some churros at a stall I had seen earlier down a side street - I asked how much, guy said 50 which seemed excessively but I thought WTF and handed it over and he gave me 5. I was offered some presumably sweetish sauces I could have on them by name but I didn't recognise them and wouldn't necessarily have wanted them anyway so I said nothing thanks. I gorged on the churros as I wandered round, it was quite busy but probably not Oaxaca zocalo levels.

I then lucked out and discovered a free music thing at the museo Belisario Dominguez (which afterwards turned out to be "Comitan a la luz de las velas") where some guy was playing violin to a backing track of popular-ish songs. They also had some guy giving out free coffee (I asked how much and he was like no it's free) and the atmoshere was quite nice and I also really liked (presumably this is "the theme", but I didn't know this til the end) the way they had put out electric candles in a geometric pattern on the floor and it all felt very cool and serendipitous. There had actually been an earlier part to it at IIRC 1830 which I missed, and I didn't see the start of the violin performance either, but it was still cool. From the poster which I photographed on the way out the violinist was Jonathan Prado. I 80%ish understood the various Spanish announcements by him and the woman doing a sort of wrap up and awarding of certificates at the end.

After the I went and had a couple of beers on the square, choosing somewhat at random Los Portales de Comitan - I had half been aiming for the actually next bar over where a guy was performing on guitar but it was no big deal anyway as every bar had its own music and there was some difficulty hearing anything too clearly anyway. It was far from deserted but also not heaving despite it being Saturday night and I (like most people) was sat outside and even with fleece on it was just a smidge on the over-cool side. Not painfully so, but not all that pleasant either (except insofar as I might try to think back to the stifling stickiness on the coast, or to a lesser degree in Oaxaca - though O on the whole was not too bad, a smidge over warm at times but also in a kind of "yes, I am holiday in the tropics escaping the winter back home" way).

So what with the quietly enjoyable museum visit and then lucking out with the nicely serendipitous cool music event it feels like a fairly solid day's touristing.

I will look into whether I should stay overnight nearby or do day trips to the nearby places I have seen in guide book tomorrow. I am broadly open to extending at this hotel if necessary and possible, though ISTR there were some reviews mentioning iffy charging extra on checkout after agreeing a price stuff so I may prefer to book extensions through booking.com (if these reviews were on this hotel) instead of negotiating directly. As I say, tomorrow's actual physical touristing will be just in town, not going anywhere.

In a strange way having slept here post bus makes it feel like I have three nights here instead of two, which is sort of nice.

Probably noted this before but an irritation with the bt keyboard is that if a finger happens to brush the screen (I think this happens mainly but not exclusively when typing a number on the top row of the keyboard) the cursor position moves and I end up typing in the middle of another sentence all of a sudden. But practice makes perfect etc and while annoying it is still probably the better of the three input methods I have available, subject to having time and space to set it up.

Let me do fucking Duolingo and clean my teeth and then move towards bed. If I think of anything I have forgotten to say while doing that I might add it.

2259 Did have solid but somewhat unexpected dump after getting into hotel room. (It is a hotel not a hostel, and I really don't see any common areas or expect to get chatting to anyone. Not a problem, just saying.) Slightly worrying but I had been a few times (having a piss only) on the bus and maybe it was just because I "could" that the need came on.

Using the toilet on the bus (which I think I did three times) felt like taking my life in my hands given the shaking around of the bus and the fact that some parts of the toilet process (trouser manipulation for example) are inherently two handed (maybe I could have tried harder) and therefore you can't hold on to the handrails and I had no trouble imagining smashing my face into the wall at a sudden swerve, not to mention the admittedly unlikely possibility of a crash as you are standing in there.

I did wear the seatbelt (although the retracting mechanism felt weak) on the bus, but generally it seems - and I do like this on practical freedom grounds, even if I would still be inclined to wear one by choice sometimes when I don't have a choice - that seatbelts are not a big thing in cars.

Can't think of anything else to say so I will send this now and get into bed. Don't want to force myself up super early tomorrow - it should be a relaxed-ish day - but also don't want to waste too much of the day oversleeping and I do feel slightly tired now.