Friday, 14 February 2025

Oaxaca City-Puerto Escondido

Wed 2153 about to go to bed. Moderately loud but not unpleasant music from bar across road, which doesn't look that busy. (I did briefly toy with going in just cos it is next to hostel and can see from room, but decided I wasn't in mood and rather just come back home.)

I do feel tired which is maybe no bad thing.

Thu 0833 on lower terrace for coffee and booking  woke up about 0030 (surprised how early it was) and about 0400 and then about 0700ish. Did see sun quite nicely over mountains as got up to shut window to try to reduce noise maybe 0700.

Hard to say if really slept well or badly. Sore throat seems to be back a bit - maybe dehydration? - and I have been having some of the tablets I bought in San cristobal.

Despite vague edginess about eg heat I think I am going to go on to PE today. Let me go look at bookinf and then maybe after coffee I will go out for breakfast and maybe check out lineas unidas terminal.

0859 booked dorm bed in hostel by a hopefully swimmable beach. Cheap anyway, may be sociable and walkable to main beach for sunsets assuming place is safe which I suspect it is. Only booked two nights as no point overdoing it but I can extend a night or two if it is OK and eg I get a lower bunk etc. There is a chain hostel with AC dorms and a swimming pool in pe which night have been vaguely nice to try and I suppose I still might, if only for the experience.

Coffee here always seems in short supply, I got the last cup in the giant urn thing. I suppose there is no point hanging round ezcessicely, let me go out for breakfast and maybe a look at the buses and then I can perhaps get off a little earlier than I otherwise would. Clothes seem to have dried very nicely overnight, I did go the extra mile drying them out in packtowl after washing but I think I did also judge the climate here correctly that it not too humid so they have dried well.

1126 at smallish terminal in Arista, just paid 320 for the 1200 "platinum express" service to pe. The next ado bus would have been at something like 1345. Ado is 3 h, this is supposedly 2-3h. I came over here earlier when leaving hostel without bag and got a bit whiny (chuntering out loud) at being sent from pillar to post among the smallish terminals and everyone telling me something different (no service to people, service from there but there says no, etc) - to be fair one guy may have told me about this place (which is not obviously lineas unidas) but I found it via a link on om. I photoed the timetable and spoke to woman at desk about travel time and to che k timetable was correct and then wandered off towards hostel. I found a very nice little buffet restaurant (Los sabores de LA chef) and paid 100+10 tip for what turned out to be two platefuls (rice, meat, veg, modest sauce in various forms - I even had a little of the higado encebollado and it tasted more or less like when I Cook liver myself) and a couple of big melon juice and a small black coffee and a couple of tortillas. Would have been nice to go there on an empty stomach later in day not feeling slightly under cosh with checkout and a bua but still pretty good, felt pretty local fwiw and this means I can easily get by with no dinner or maybe just a snack or something.

Went back to hoatel, there is a new guy in my dorm, we exchanfed basic pip pip stuff in Spanish but little chat. Actually I think I met him when went back to swap stiff round before heading out to look for lineas unidas and he was in bed when I went back for final check and paxk to check out.

I think the pe hostel has said I can have a lower bunk.

Am unlikely to even try to swim in pe today but with luck I can wander down to the swimmable beach for a look and then catch the sunset (maybe with a can of beer if that works) on the main beach. I can then have a lazyish day tomorrow and see if can manage to swim early before uv gets up and just maybe so some exercise later in day heat permitting.

I got to/had to pick a seat from a paper printout of layout of minibus when booking so I picked 6, if feels vaguely appropriate and it was also the aisle seat by the door so shouldn't end up feeling trapped and should have food leg room. I believe the minibus is airconditioned.

This is a whisker cheaper than ado but the choice mostly came down to which was leaving first when I got back to hostel 1030ish and checked ado site and photo of timetable for this company. Plus this terminal is maybe a smidge closer to hoatel than ado wrt walking to it.

Couple of biggish solid-ish shits today. Slightly oss just how much there is but at least it is solid and while not absolute 100% tranquil about this bus am fingers crossed not really worried.

Speaking generally maybe 5% of people here (not sure if just oaxaca or Mexico in general, if I had to guess I might say Oaxaca only) seem to be wearing fairly serious black face masks. There is the usual assortment of never taken down covid instructions everywhere of course but I am 99% sure this has no legal or practical force any more.

Popped up to roof terrace at hostel for quick look round before I left.

1940 Voice dictating as quietly as I can on the hostel terrace. Got the bus no problem, my seat was actually perhaps not that great as the road in front had three seats in so it overlapped but at least I wasn't overly trapped feeling. The journey was okay, we got delayed due to some sort of road works, maybe some slip down the side of a very steep sort of embankmentee thing we were going through and I was surprisingly chilled half falling asleep without it.

We got here maybe half three four. I'm not really sure. It's hot here, but not so obviously. Oh my god, I'm dying hot, but we'll see. So I walked over to the hostel, found it no big deal. Got checked in. It's a bit down at heel, but I've got a six-bed dome to myself. A bit dingy in there. The lockers are in the kitchen area, and I've managed to get one right at the top, I have to stand on a chair to operate my combination lock. I put my bag in there to start with, but then later on I went out for a walk and I realised I should just put my valuables in there and chain the bag up next to my bunk, especially since I actually got the dorm to myself at the moment, so I switched that around when I came back.

I was feeling a bit hot and sweaty during the walk. I wandered down to some sort of viewpoint I had seen on organic maps. I also walked along some little localish boulevard with lots of restaurants on. It's all a little bit wanky, touristy, slightly American, slightly overpriced. I mean it's certainly no Tamarindo or Cancun but I wasn't loving it to be fair.

Oh, to be fair also, before I went on the walk proper, I went down to the beach, which is very near. It's a very small beach and it was very crowded, but it seemed nice enough and I'm moderately optimistic. I'll be able to swim there tomorrow morning. I need to make an effort to be up early-ish. The sun was full on and it was really busy and there's a few sort of down at heel beach bars and stuff. It's fine. It's, you know, it could be nice in the It's way but it was way busy and the sun was too full on when I went down there tonight.

So I got some cinnamon rolls or something and a small bottle of coke, a small supermarket and drank them. I wasn't really sure what I wanted because I'd eaten a big meal this morning. I just kind of wanted a snack. I couldn't find any tacos or anything at a cheap sort of price and I wasn't really sure what to do. And as I say, I didn't need a full meal.

So I came back and I had a shower. It's only cold water, but it's hot enough here. That's absolutely no issue. There was a gigantic harvestman, one of those arachnids that's not actually a spider, really, really long legs in the corner of the shower, but it didn't bother me particularly. Not sure it ever would have done, but the shower was really primitive. You know, I had to leave my trousers as with my phone out in the corridor, sitting on the floor. There wasn't a hook, but it was fine.

I had been thinking I'd watched the sunset from the hostel outdoor terracy thing tonight but it's got a lot of trees for sure and I suspect the angle isn't great anyway and also it's like it was hardly anyone at the bar and it seems to be mainly the barman stroke owner stroke manager or whatever he is hanging out with a few of his friends and it didn't feel super matey so I wandered off down to the viewpoint checked out earlier I got a couple of beers at a small Supermarkety kind of place id spotted on the way and that was actually quite nice.

There were quite a lot of people around but I went sort of halfway down the side of the cliff. There's a sort of flat area right at the bottom. I didn't go down that far apart because I didn't want to climb up it in the dark. But I managed to find a nice little spot to sit and there was a lot of people around but it didn't feel too crowded. It was sort of actually kind of nice to have people around. Some people play music but it didn't feel bad. It was quite nice. The sunset was like pretty cool, not like OMFG his is just so magical 11 out of 10 stuff, but you know an 8 or 9 out of 10 solid sunset over the sea, orange on the horizon, the sky darkening a bit, vegetation turning into silhouettes.

I felt very slightly drunk when I stood up, nothing major. I went up to the top and waited around a few more minutes at the top. There's a few probably locals hanging around just to watch the sky darken slightly. I didn't let the sky go absolutely like purple, like it might have done. I don't know. It was a modest five, ten minute walk back and I called in at the supermarket where I got the cinnamon roll things earlier and I got a small packet of takis fjego and a litre of semi skimmed milk (all they had) and I've just been eating and drinking those here on the terrace. I feel a little bit tired. I might go to bed soon. I just might have another beer at the bar which is over in the middle of the terrace. It'd not be a huge one. I'm not feeling super matey and I do want to be up early and I don't want to get hung over because, you know, I want to swim in the morning. But we'll see what happens.

As I say I'm voice dictating and the punctuation and so forth is all over the place but I think the main thing is to get something written rather than just over exert myself faffing to get it correct. I really do kind of miss being able to write things on a proper keyboard but it was finger cramping using the key one keyboard and I'm not digging out the little Bluetooth keyboard and my reading glasses at this point

As far as I can tell, there's no free drinking water here, so although I've got some with me, I might fill up my filter bottle from the outdoor sink tap when I'm cleaning my teeth later on.

I haven't seen what you might call the main beach yet. It's just far enough away that I may never get over there. I mean, I might, depending on what happens after all, you know, unless I manage to exercise after swimming, tomorrow I have a lot of time to kill, so maybe I wander over there. But, anyway, just to say, I haven't seen it.

Although there's some light pollution here on the terrace, there is quite an impressive collection of stars overhead. You know, I can see orion and stuff like that. Taurus. So, yeah, that's kind of cool. You know, there is enough light, that it's not like, oh my God, amazing. But, you know, I can see something.

I feel a bit bloated after milk, not in a terrible way, but I may go to bed. If I sleep OK and swimming has potential I will look into extending tomorrow but no immediate rush. I suspect while it isn't aa super quiet or chilled as I'd like, I could probably productively put in a relaxed three or four nights here. At this point I probably don't want to be rushing off to that little quiet town, even if it is part way to acapculolcp I doubt you can go via it and i am not really sure j have time. I need to keep an eye on Acapulco accom availability and prices but not worrying about that tonight.

This place doesn't feel super matey. I could be wrong. I may have like a beer or two at the hostel bar mid afternoon, you know, when it's hot or something like that, especially if I've managed to swim and exercise. I'm probably not going to go to the bar tonight. I mean, I could do, but I don't know if it would be matey, but it doesn't really feel like it. I feel a bit bloated, a bit tired. I do want to swim, so I don't think I will.

And not that it's a huge deal, but I guess I do probably, I've not checked since I got back, probably have the dorm to myself and that's something I should maybe take advantage of.

2015 about to go to bed. Hector (barman type chap who checked me on) asked if I had a light, I didn't. A few people poss staff ish around bad bug pretty quiet. The handful? Of other guests might be out of course. There may actually be drinking water in kitchen but as my water bottle is actually quite full I didn't try to pour any in, if doesn't have a dispenser and someone was sat next to it watching stuff on a tablet. Have filled lifestraw anyway.

It is sultry in here but since I have room to myself I can turn the fan on and hog it.

P7 screen protector has been a bit shitty for a while but seems to be seeming to come off more perhaps due to heat. Can't change it while away so just have to hope it vaguely lasts.

2019 let's send this and go to bed.

Reggaeish "I will survive cover" from prob bar. Reminds me of last quiz night at San Cristobal hostel where I sang this with Mason(ish) then with everyone.

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