Mon 1825 Back in hotel room. A pretty successful day's touristing.
I was awake about 0630 but really felt vaguely depressed and didn't want to get up and face the "challenge" of going over to the site etc. Nothing amazingly out of the ordinary.
I did make a bit of an effort and finally got up about 0715 and was out of the hotel about 0750. Guy at reception was sweeping and asked me if I wanted my room cleaned but I said it was fine - it is, this is maybe also a small quid pro quo for letting me check in early, and I also had some mildly damp clothes hanging up which I'd rather they didn't see.
I got the colectivo over to Tenam Puente no problem, by luck I turned up just as one was leaving (empty) and just about seized the moment in time to speak to the driver and got to sit in the front (he didn't seem disposed to chat and was on phone and radio a bit so I didn't push it) and we got there no problem. I asked about coming back and he said to ask the police (? but there are like staff and security at th site) and they would call him (presumably not literally him but the company).
I paid 75 to get into the site, I was there about 0840 (see photo timestamps and GPS logs for details). It was pleasantly cool and a bit overcast and grey (partly due to early morning), I was wearing fleece.
Maybe the guide book had set the tone but the site does feel a bit unexplored and I did realise later on that as you walk round one of the paths on the site you cannot see anything except trees and hills and you could almost walk right past all the ruins (which are not small!) without realising they were there.
I had the site practically to myself, I was the first visitor of the day in the day book (and there might have been about 5 yesterday, and probably all but one entry which was for a French group was Mexicans), except for maybe 10 mins about an hour in when a group of young slightly noisy but pleasant enough (we said buenos dias) Mexicans - no idea if locals or national tourists - came into the same area as me. That was about it. As I was leaving a few more people were heading down the path into the site but I was leaving then.
It is very cool and it did somehow irrationally feel like I was "discovering" the ruins for myself (presumably in reality if they were undiscovered they would be covered in vegetation, but my imagination didn't care about that). I probably didn't over-milk it. I spent about two hours wandering round with the aid of a photo of the map at the entrance (which I found a bit hard to follow) and the sketchy site details on Organic Maps trying to make sure I saw everything and doing a bit of sitting and admiring the view in a few select places. I took probably too many photos as usual. At this point the layout of the site had kind of got worked out in my brain. I then spent maybe another 30-45 mins doing another circuit just concentrating on a couple of points I had particularly liked the view at and trying to admire the site generally without taking too many photos. The tallest pyramid was cool but actually perhaps even cooler was the view of it - looking absolutely iconically "Maya pyramid" - from the top of the big but not so big adjacent pyramid. I also particularly liked the three joined pyramids at the "far end" of the site (the ones you get to by following the path all the way round and then you come on them kind of suddenly).
The weather got warmer and sunnier as time went on and by the time I left I had taken fleece off (it had gone on and off a few times earlier) and it was warm in a pleasant bordering on slightly too hot way.
I probably left after about 3 hours, had a piss (flushing toilet with a provided bucket of water from some woman who didn't seem to expect a tip and whose job is presumably to keep these buckets filled) and asked the helpful chap at the ticket office to call the colectivo for me and had a super quick look (lots of photos but did read quickly) round the site museum before going to wait for the colectivo at the entrance, which turned up maybe 10 mins later so worked out super well. Only 30 pesos each way.
Really did enjoy it, glad I went, the sense of isolation and (to be honest) a bit of a "yeah, this is kind of exclusive and off the beaten track" really made it something special. I could completely see myself coming back in a year or two on a subsequent visit.
Got back into town, got a Pepsi Black, went to Golden Express again but this time I picked my own meal instead of getting a numbered combo, paid about 150. I came back to hostel briefly and then after checking on Google Maps and finding there was a Santander cash machine at the OCC terminal as well as an actual branch a bit further south I trogged over to the terminal and successfully withdrew another 7k for a really very reasonable 34-ish fee on my Chase card. I then walked back into town a different route just to see more of the town, got two sweet creamy pastry things (including one of those cornucopia-ish ones) and got very sticky, then went to Museo de Arte Hermilia Dominguez de Castellanos , which was only 20 pesos and had two floors (not huge, quite a pleasant size, and a very nice little building actually) of paintings which you are annoyingly not allowed to photograph, and a small back garden.
I more or less wandered round everything twice and then went to La Esquina de Belisario on the corner of the main square and had a couple of (beer then white coffee), tiny bit of chat with one of the staff at one point who said that the climate in Comitan used to be like San Cris about 10 years ago but over the last 5? years it has changed and is now drier and sunnier. I think I remembered that correctly, make of it what you will. I would have guessed the climate was similar to San Cris myself but obviously I haven't been in both places simultaneously or either that much.
I was going to go to Cafe Bar Central for another coffee, partly for the hell of it and partly as I didn't tip yesterday due to lack of change or small notes, but it was shut so I went to Oxxo and broke a 500 (got some fizzy water like last two days and also some pan canela glaseado to go with the slightly battered pan canela I maybe got in Oaxaca - I figure I dont't know what the food will be like tomorrow and it won't hurt to have something in reserve) and came back here. I also broke a 500 at La Esquina - the bill was 196 including a suggested 10% tip (which incidentally does kind of suggest that a 10% tip is standardish, and I should maybe not feel obliged to tip more in general when I am doing it unguided and not even sure if I really need to tip) but I rounded it up to 200.
I am probably going to loiter in room for another 45-60 mins and then go out for a wander round the square after dark and maybe get something (eg some of that biscuit soup stuff) at one of the little food stalls etc. I am vaguely sad to be leaving but as usual better than being pleased etc etc.
I am trying not to plan too much ahead, I still have two weeks as of tomorrow and I will see how things go tomorrow as to whether I want to spend an extra night at El Chiflon, either in the same place I am staying tomorrow night or visiting the "other side" of the river.
I need to pack but apart from maybe leaving the slightly damp clothes out overnight the actual packing is pretty trivial and is a 5-10 minute job, it is really more a case of being paranoid about leaving something behind. I will probably have a shower when I go to bed rather than doing it now.
It still does feel like I am mostly the only gringo in Comitan and the surrounding area and everything (eg menus) does seem to be in Spanish, FWIW.
1850 If I didn't alread say FWIW the route I took by colectivo from Palenque to San Cris via Ocosingo was actually along a route you are advised not to take on FCDO site. I didn't know and of course it was fine but stll, semi cool in hindsight.
I think I am fine wrt the 40km from the border advice with the places I have been and am going round here. It is a bit of a shame - though I am also a bit tight on time - that it is inadvisable to go to some of the other ruins nearer the border with Guatemala, it would probably be fine given this is a recognised tourist thing but still. Maybe on a future visit the advice will have changed or something. As always, you can't do everything.
If it's not obvious I felt broadly fine when I left the hotel at 0750, it was just the usual-ish not wanting to get up type stuff that stoped me actually getting up at 7, and I still did pretty well getting up 715ish albeit not wanting to. I expect it will be similar tomorrow morning, which is slightly worse of course as I have to take my bag with me and have a mildly unknown destination, albeit it is not a long journey and I am fairly confident I know where to get the bus. (And I also saw, as I think I did on walk in when I got off the night bus from Oaxaca too, where the colectivos from here to San Cris go when I was going to Santander ATM this afternoon, so I am reasonably confident of a fuss-free journey to San Cris when I return from El Chiflon.)
1911 Just had a look at BA site, the seat booking is wide open albeit at the usual insane prices. There is a half decent aisle seat available at £42. I may book this tomorrow. I need to get it sorted but it does grate. Still, as I think I've said at length before, apart from my tendency to get stressed about it last minute, waiting until the last minute to see if I get a decent seat for free and then hoping I can pay ~£42 to change it if necessary is not ideal, partly because with this being a night flight I am likely to piss people off/feel more trapped if I am not in an aisle seat and thus can't get up whenever I want without waking people up, plus although (and I am perhaps being a bit unfair) Cancun is not exactly a destination I intend to be actively "enjoying" on my last night, even so it is not ideal if I am farting around (perhaps even from a dorm/hostel common area, though ideally not given I like a private to do my packing in etc on the last night) at 1840 on my last night frantically trying to sort out my seat rather than being free to do whatever I want (talk to people, have a beer somewhere) - this is a bit different compared to flying out when I am naturally at home when online checkin opens, and I have a computer with a big screen and space to pace around and "panic" in if I don't like my free seat, etc. So as I say, if I am farting around trying to change my seat at online check in, it could spoil the last night of my trip by constraining where I can be, plus there is the extra importance to me on the night flight of an aisle seat, plus not wanting to be worrying about seats as the end of trip draws near and things start to feel a bit stressful and sad and "I just wish I was back home already because the last day or two is so faffy" type stuff comes on.
So I will probably pay for the damn seat in the next day or two but at least I have had a quick look now. And at least I haven't "always" paid for a seat so - although I suspect this isnt't actually the case - if as someone suggested they see that I have in the past (the CR trip) "always" been willing to pay for a seat they may have raised the prices *for me* to take advantage of that attitude on my part, I have at least slightly confounded this bit of their modelling. But I suspect they don't do this and they have just put the damn prices up for everyone, although obviously I have no way to really know.
This has at least confirmed the flight date is Tue 11 Mar. I was 99% sure already having eg checking the saved itinerary PDF on my phone, but always good to confirm.
2002 I did also like the ball courts at Tenam Puente BTW, they were well preserved and quite evocative somehow.
2051 Been for a walk round square, probably only out about half an hour. Not deserted by any means but probably not as busy as yesterday. Even half hour felt slightly milking it but not too bad. Got another cup of that biscuity drink, I asked what it was called and thought I heard well but it being turned over in my mind without being written down may have mutated it. I think it was "azole de galleta", the first word being the dubious one, but this at least may be good enough for a web search to turn up a definitive answer.
Forgot to say that while at Tenam Puente I saw a caterpillar hanging in the air. I thought at first it was caught on a spider web but then realised there were in fact four caterpillars spaced out along a single (?) vertical thread over maybe a couple of metres all hanging in the air writhing. Sort of cool and interesting though I have no idea what would be going on, or how (since I assume they are each emitting a thread of their own) they are all on the same thread - perhaps (they were swinging quite a bit in the light breeze) they all have their own thread but as they swing around the threads entwine.
2100 Also been meaning to note two independent observations:
- there are quite a lot of reasonably good condition VW Beetles here, I have a vague feeling perhaps more than in other parts of Mexico I have been in but not too sure.
- the 5%ish of people wearing face masks seems to be a thing here too. Quite a few staff (but not all) seem to wear them, I don't think this can be compulsory given by no means all or even most staff are wearing them, but hard to say. The waiter who chatted briefly to me at La Esquina was wearing a mask but it was pulled down. (As elsewhere, there are *loads* of "masks obligatory" and "how to deal with covid 19" signs and posters and stickers everywhere, but I don't think these have any real relevance, people obviously just like having them around as reminders of the good times.)
2223 ok, watched a bit of yt, did teeth, had shower. Very lightly packed but probably makes more sense to do most of it (there isn't much really) in the norning. Will set alarm for 7 but if I snooze 15ish mins that is probably fine. I don't actually know when first colectivo to el chiflon is but I suspect it be no later than 8. I do want to get there as early as possible to have time to walk the whole path calmly-ish and ideally at least toy with swimming but I am not to 15 or 30 mins.
Done bloody Duolingo and about to go to bed.
I was awake about 0630 but really felt vaguely depressed and didn't want to get up and face the "challenge" of going over to the site etc. Nothing amazingly out of the ordinary.
I did make a bit of an effort and finally got up about 0715 and was out of the hotel about 0750. Guy at reception was sweeping and asked me if I wanted my room cleaned but I said it was fine - it is, this is maybe also a small quid pro quo for letting me check in early, and I also had some mildly damp clothes hanging up which I'd rather they didn't see.
I got the colectivo over to Tenam Puente no problem, by luck I turned up just as one was leaving (empty) and just about seized the moment in time to speak to the driver and got to sit in the front (he didn't seem disposed to chat and was on phone and radio a bit so I didn't push it) and we got there no problem. I asked about coming back and he said to ask the police (? but there are like staff and security at th site) and they would call him (presumably not literally him but the company).
I paid 75 to get into the site, I was there about 0840 (see photo timestamps and GPS logs for details). It was pleasantly cool and a bit overcast and grey (partly due to early morning), I was wearing fleece.
Maybe the guide book had set the tone but the site does feel a bit unexplored and I did realise later on that as you walk round one of the paths on the site you cannot see anything except trees and hills and you could almost walk right past all the ruins (which are not small!) without realising they were there.
I had the site practically to myself, I was the first visitor of the day in the day book (and there might have been about 5 yesterday, and probably all but one entry which was for a French group was Mexicans), except for maybe 10 mins about an hour in when a group of young slightly noisy but pleasant enough (we said buenos dias) Mexicans - no idea if locals or national tourists - came into the same area as me. That was about it. As I was leaving a few more people were heading down the path into the site but I was leaving then.
It is very cool and it did somehow irrationally feel like I was "discovering" the ruins for myself (presumably in reality if they were undiscovered they would be covered in vegetation, but my imagination didn't care about that). I probably didn't over-milk it. I spent about two hours wandering round with the aid of a photo of the map at the entrance (which I found a bit hard to follow) and the sketchy site details on Organic Maps trying to make sure I saw everything and doing a bit of sitting and admiring the view in a few select places. I took probably too many photos as usual. At this point the layout of the site had kind of got worked out in my brain. I then spent maybe another 30-45 mins doing another circuit just concentrating on a couple of points I had particularly liked the view at and trying to admire the site generally without taking too many photos. The tallest pyramid was cool but actually perhaps even cooler was the view of it - looking absolutely iconically "Maya pyramid" - from the top of the big but not so big adjacent pyramid. I also particularly liked the three joined pyramids at the "far end" of the site (the ones you get to by following the path all the way round and then you come on them kind of suddenly).
The weather got warmer and sunnier as time went on and by the time I left I had taken fleece off (it had gone on and off a few times earlier) and it was warm in a pleasant bordering on slightly too hot way.
I probably left after about 3 hours, had a piss (flushing toilet with a provided bucket of water from some woman who didn't seem to expect a tip and whose job is presumably to keep these buckets filled) and asked the helpful chap at the ticket office to call the colectivo for me and had a super quick look (lots of photos but did read quickly) round the site museum before going to wait for the colectivo at the entrance, which turned up maybe 10 mins later so worked out super well. Only 30 pesos each way.
Really did enjoy it, glad I went, the sense of isolation and (to be honest) a bit of a "yeah, this is kind of exclusive and off the beaten track" really made it something special. I could completely see myself coming back in a year or two on a subsequent visit.
Got back into town, got a Pepsi Black, went to Golden Express again but this time I picked my own meal instead of getting a numbered combo, paid about 150. I came back to hostel briefly and then after checking on Google Maps and finding there was a Santander cash machine at the OCC terminal as well as an actual branch a bit further south I trogged over to the terminal and successfully withdrew another 7k for a really very reasonable 34-ish fee on my Chase card. I then walked back into town a different route just to see more of the town, got two sweet creamy pastry things (including one of those cornucopia-ish ones) and got very sticky, then went to Museo de Arte Hermilia Dominguez de Castellanos , which was only 20 pesos and had two floors (not huge, quite a pleasant size, and a very nice little building actually) of paintings which you are annoyingly not allowed to photograph, and a small back garden.
I more or less wandered round everything twice and then went to La Esquina de Belisario on the corner of the main square and had a couple of (beer then white coffee), tiny bit of chat with one of the staff at one point who said that the climate in Comitan used to be like San Cris about 10 years ago but over the last 5? years it has changed and is now drier and sunnier. I think I remembered that correctly, make of it what you will. I would have guessed the climate was similar to San Cris myself but obviously I haven't been in both places simultaneously or either that much.
I was going to go to Cafe Bar Central for another coffee, partly for the hell of it and partly as I didn't tip yesterday due to lack of change or small notes, but it was shut so I went to Oxxo and broke a 500 (got some fizzy water like last two days and also some pan canela glaseado to go with the slightly battered pan canela I maybe got in Oaxaca - I figure I dont't know what the food will be like tomorrow and it won't hurt to have something in reserve) and came back here. I also broke a 500 at La Esquina - the bill was 196 including a suggested 10% tip (which incidentally does kind of suggest that a 10% tip is standardish, and I should maybe not feel obliged to tip more in general when I am doing it unguided and not even sure if I really need to tip) but I rounded it up to 200.
I am probably going to loiter in room for another 45-60 mins and then go out for a wander round the square after dark and maybe get something (eg some of that biscuit soup stuff) at one of the little food stalls etc. I am vaguely sad to be leaving but as usual better than being pleased etc etc.
I am trying not to plan too much ahead, I still have two weeks as of tomorrow and I will see how things go tomorrow as to whether I want to spend an extra night at El Chiflon, either in the same place I am staying tomorrow night or visiting the "other side" of the river.
I need to pack but apart from maybe leaving the slightly damp clothes out overnight the actual packing is pretty trivial and is a 5-10 minute job, it is really more a case of being paranoid about leaving something behind. I will probably have a shower when I go to bed rather than doing it now.
It still does feel like I am mostly the only gringo in Comitan and the surrounding area and everything (eg menus) does seem to be in Spanish, FWIW.
1850 If I didn't alread say FWIW the route I took by colectivo from Palenque to San Cris via Ocosingo was actually along a route you are advised not to take on FCDO site. I didn't know and of course it was fine but stll, semi cool in hindsight.
I think I am fine wrt the 40km from the border advice with the places I have been and am going round here. It is a bit of a shame - though I am also a bit tight on time - that it is inadvisable to go to some of the other ruins nearer the border with Guatemala, it would probably be fine given this is a recognised tourist thing but still. Maybe on a future visit the advice will have changed or something. As always, you can't do everything.
If it's not obvious I felt broadly fine when I left the hotel at 0750, it was just the usual-ish not wanting to get up type stuff that stoped me actually getting up at 7, and I still did pretty well getting up 715ish albeit not wanting to. I expect it will be similar tomorrow morning, which is slightly worse of course as I have to take my bag with me and have a mildly unknown destination, albeit it is not a long journey and I am fairly confident I know where to get the bus. (And I also saw, as I think I did on walk in when I got off the night bus from Oaxaca too, where the colectivos from here to San Cris go when I was going to Santander ATM this afternoon, so I am reasonably confident of a fuss-free journey to San Cris when I return from El Chiflon.)
1911 Just had a look at BA site, the seat booking is wide open albeit at the usual insane prices. There is a half decent aisle seat available at £42. I may book this tomorrow. I need to get it sorted but it does grate. Still, as I think I've said at length before, apart from my tendency to get stressed about it last minute, waiting until the last minute to see if I get a decent seat for free and then hoping I can pay ~£42 to change it if necessary is not ideal, partly because with this being a night flight I am likely to piss people off/feel more trapped if I am not in an aisle seat and thus can't get up whenever I want without waking people up, plus although (and I am perhaps being a bit unfair) Cancun is not exactly a destination I intend to be actively "enjoying" on my last night, even so it is not ideal if I am farting around (perhaps even from a dorm/hostel common area, though ideally not given I like a private to do my packing in etc on the last night) at 1840 on my last night frantically trying to sort out my seat rather than being free to do whatever I want (talk to people, have a beer somewhere) - this is a bit different compared to flying out when I am naturally at home when online checkin opens, and I have a computer with a big screen and space to pace around and "panic" in if I don't like my free seat, etc. So as I say, if I am farting around trying to change my seat at online check in, it could spoil the last night of my trip by constraining where I can be, plus there is the extra importance to me on the night flight of an aisle seat, plus not wanting to be worrying about seats as the end of trip draws near and things start to feel a bit stressful and sad and "I just wish I was back home already because the last day or two is so faffy" type stuff comes on.
So I will probably pay for the damn seat in the next day or two but at least I have had a quick look now. And at least I haven't "always" paid for a seat so - although I suspect this isnt't actually the case - if as someone suggested they see that I have in the past (the CR trip) "always" been willing to pay for a seat they may have raised the prices *for me* to take advantage of that attitude on my part, I have at least slightly confounded this bit of their modelling. But I suspect they don't do this and they have just put the damn prices up for everyone, although obviously I have no way to really know.
This has at least confirmed the flight date is Tue 11 Mar. I was 99% sure already having eg checking the saved itinerary PDF on my phone, but always good to confirm.
2002 I did also like the ball courts at Tenam Puente BTW, they were well preserved and quite evocative somehow.
2051 Been for a walk round square, probably only out about half an hour. Not deserted by any means but probably not as busy as yesterday. Even half hour felt slightly milking it but not too bad. Got another cup of that biscuity drink, I asked what it was called and thought I heard well but it being turned over in my mind without being written down may have mutated it. I think it was "azole de galleta", the first word being the dubious one, but this at least may be good enough for a web search to turn up a definitive answer.
Forgot to say that while at Tenam Puente I saw a caterpillar hanging in the air. I thought at first it was caught on a spider web but then realised there were in fact four caterpillars spaced out along a single (?) vertical thread over maybe a couple of metres all hanging in the air writhing. Sort of cool and interesting though I have no idea what would be going on, or how (since I assume they are each emitting a thread of their own) they are all on the same thread - perhaps (they were swinging quite a bit in the light breeze) they all have their own thread but as they swing around the threads entwine.
2100 Also been meaning to note two independent observations:
- there are quite a lot of reasonably good condition VW Beetles here, I have a vague feeling perhaps more than in other parts of Mexico I have been in but not too sure.
- the 5%ish of people wearing face masks seems to be a thing here too. Quite a few staff (but not all) seem to wear them, I don't think this can be compulsory given by no means all or even most staff are wearing them, but hard to say. The waiter who chatted briefly to me at La Esquina was wearing a mask but it was pulled down. (As elsewhere, there are *loads* of "masks obligatory" and "how to deal with covid 19" signs and posters and stickers everywhere, but I don't think these have any real relevance, people obviously just like having them around as reminders of the good times.)
2223 ok, watched a bit of yt, did teeth, had shower. Very lightly packed but probably makes more sense to do most of it (there isn't much really) in the norning. Will set alarm for 7 but if I snooze 15ish mins that is probably fine. I don't actually know when first colectivo to el chiflon is but I suspect it be no later than 8. I do want to get there as early as possible to have time to walk the whole path calmly-ish and ideally at least toy with swimming but I am not to 15 or 30 mins.
Done bloody Duolingo and about to go to bed.
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