Coping with a lost, stolen or damaged phone

[I wrote this as a draft a month or so after returning from Argentina, and now I'm starting to prepare for my next trip I thought I should finally make the effort to actually publish it on the blog and to follow my own advice.]

So after my earlier on-the-fly wafflings, and being safely back home and having had a bit of time to mull things over, here's a kind of post-mortem on the problems I had when my phone broke and what I intend to do in the future to avoid similar problems.

What happened

• The USB socket on my phone was becoming increasingly unreliable, making charging difficult, verging on impossible.
• I believe this was caused or at least accelerated by using the phone to read in bed while charging it, as this could put extra strain on the connector, especially if I knocked it around while moving in my sleep - I often wouldn't or couldn't (in a dormitory, for example) put the phone on a bedside table before actually going to sleep.
• The charging situation got so bad that I decided it was better to risk taking it in for repair while I was abroad than to try to hold on until I got home; the phone was the only internet-capable device I had with me, as I didn't take a tablet or laptop to save weight and reduce the temptation to fritter time away on it.
• While the repair was fortunately successful, because I took it in on a Friday afternoon and the same-day repair I was initially promised didn't happen, I ended up without the phone until Monday.
• Without my phone I was (largely) unable to access my GMail account, because I needed the phone as a two-factor authentication device.
• Without access to my GMail account and/or my phone-as-a-phone, I was unable to access other accounts - most significantly airbnb - because they wanted to send me an authentication code via text message or e-mail.
• Some important details I needed for online checkin for my return flight were only on GMail, and some other details were only on GMail and Dropbox, neither of which I could access.
• I did in fact have a single GMail emergency backup code, good for precisely one login, but I felt I had to keep that in reserve in case all other options failed and I needed it to get access to the online checkin details. Yes, in principle I could have logged in with it, got some more emergency backup codes and been good to go, but I was worried that something would go wrong (e.g. a power or network outage in the internet cafe closing my session before I got more emergency backup codes out); this is the "two is one, one is none" principle in effect, I guess.
• I did manage to get in contact with my parents via Skype from an internet cafe, because Skype mercifully allows you to sign in from an unknown device without 2FA for a limited seven day period. I believe I could have used this to get them to relay a 2FA code from GMail which would have been phoned through to their home landline, as I had that set up as one of the recovery numbers, but I decided not to try this unless the phone repair failed and that was luckily not the case.
• I needed to get in touch with my non-resident airbnb host while I didn't have my phone. I had asked them for an e-mail address as I anticipated possible phone problems, but had then stupidly not written it down on a piece of paper but sent it to myself in an e-mail, which was inaccessible to me.
• I tried to set up a temporary free e-mail address to be able to contact my parents and (if I had had the address on paper) my airbnb host, but it was very difficult to get one without a working phone number. Doug Dyment has helpfully suggested to me since that there are free e-mail services which work without a phone number (I'll list them below); I think I failed to find these on my Google searches for "free e-mail addresses with no phone number" because they're primarily marketed as anonymising and/or spam-avoiding services, even though they do fulfil my requirements exactly.

Other problems which didn't happen but would have the same effect

If my phone had been stolen, lost or for some reason I had had to factory reset it the effects would have been almost the same as if the phone had broken and could not be repaired.

A factory reset would have been slightly better than a stolen or lost phone as I would have had a working phone with my UK SIM in, which could (in Argentina, where all this happened) receive texts but nothing else - that would have helped me re-establish my electronic identity on the effectively new phone.

Problems I didn't experience, but which seem possible and related

I was using a different UK SIM abroad than I normally do back in the UK; my normal contract has no roaming support at all (not a question of cost, it doesn't support it) and I therefore didn't have access to my normal UK number. Some websites were set up with the alternate number, but some weren't - in particular I don't think GMail was. So if I had bought a new phone and put my SIM in it, I might have struggled to authenticate to some websites.

I have some of my key passwords memorised (e.g. GMail) but not all; I use a password manager on - you guessed it - my phone for most passwords. This wasn't a problem for me this time because, anticipating the phone becoming impossible to charge at some point, I had jotted down a few of the more important passwords on a bit of paper and had them available.

What I could have done to be better prepared for this possibility

If I had been able to get access to my GMail account, pretty much everything else would have just worked. I had one emergency backup code but didn't dare to use it. So:

• Have at least two and ideally three GMail backup codes memorised. If I'd "lost" my phone and my bag - perhaps in a single mugging, perhaps I lose one and then the other a few hours or days after - having them on a piece of paper in the bag would not help me.
• Test in advance the possibility of logging into GMail using a 2FA code sent to my parents' landline and relayed to me by phone; if I know this works, I'll feel more comfortable not having any backup codes on a piece of paper. I already demonstrated it's possible to communicate with them to have the code relayed via Skype, and failing that an actual telephone call (internet cafes often provide call booths) to them would work too.

I think those two things alone would have reduced the stress caused by "losing" the phone enormously. I'll go on to make some other suggestions, but I think these are less critical:

• Test logging on to the most critical sites (for me, probably GMail, Dropbox and airbnb) from an "unknown" computer (a friend's, if I've never used it before, or an internet cafe here at home) before the trip with my phone switched off; if I can't get into any of them, I need to find a way round that.
• Taking a second (probably relatively cheap) smartphone with me is worth serious consideration. It would serve as a backup 2FA device, so with either smartphone I could access all my accounts with no problem. (The only exception would be text message authentication, as only one phone could have my SIM in at a time, but I could of course swap it between them if one broke instead of being lost or stolen.) This would also (probably) allow me to set up a new phone or a factory-reset phone if necessary. I think this would also help me avoid damaging the charging port by reading in bed; with two phones I could leave one charging on a table and read on the other in bed using its battery; even in a dormitory I could probably manage something like this by locking the charging phone in my bag/locker and charging it from a powerbank. And of course if the second phone was relatively cheap, I could carry it around with me at times and places I might otherwise prefer not to take my "main" phone.
• Having more of the key passwords memorised or written down (insecure, I know; perhaps write a hinted version?) would be very helpful. With access to e-mail I could have done a password reset on most sites to get in, which is why I don't think this is critical, although it's possible doing a password reset would have triggered extra 2FA-style authentication which would have involved text messges to my phone.
• Updating key sites to have the phone number of my "travel" SIM (not my normal UK number) would have helped if I had access to the SIM but not my phone itself (e.g. if I'd bought a replacement phone). This is potentially a pain as some sites might not allow multiple phone numbers so it might involve switching back and forth at the start and end of a trip, but definitely worth considering, especially on sites which do allow multiple numbers.
• Assume whatsapp and other "secure" communication methods such as airbnb messaging may be unavailable; try to get an e-mail address from airbnb hosts or other important people where possible and write it on a bit of paper or (a low-effort alternative) take a photo of it from the phone screen with my standalone digital camera and lock it so it won't be erased when I clear the card after copying photos on to my phone. I'm not sure it's generally welcome to ask e.g. airbnb hosts for e-mail addresses, but depending on the circumstances this might be useful. In any case, if I have an e-mail address for someone I might need to contact in an emergency, making the small effort to make it available if the phone breaks is useful.
• Don't get too internet-focused; I could have gone into a call centre and called my parents on the phone as way to re-establish communications, but I think I mostly forgot about this in the heat of the moment. I do have their numbers memorised already, but obviously if I didn't then memorising them would also be a good idea.
• Wear a watch, ideally a digital one. This way I know the time and have an alarm available (even if it isn't all that loud, it's better than nothing) while phoneless. (I do already do this, but I'll list it here anyway because it's a good idea and I should keep doing it.)
• Set up a standby e-mail account, memorise the password and teach my parents about it as a "probably me, but be suspicious" e-mail address. As this account would not be set up on any websites as my address, I could afford to leave 2FA disabled on it and could therefore log into it with just the password; I'd want to choose a webmail account which doesn't force 2FA, of course.

E-mail access without needing a phone number

The sites Doug recommended were:

• http://anonymouse.org/
• http://www.guerrillamail.com/
• https://trashmail.com/

but now I've been pointed in the right direction, a web search for "disposable e-mail address" shows lots of other options. Some of these options might mean any e-mails I received would be visible to random strangers, but with care that would be OK; for example a GMail 2FA code is single-use, so as long as I was waiting for the e-mail containing it and used it before anyone else could that would be an acceptable risk in an emergency.

Buenos Aires-London

Mon 0735 Just got on bus 8 from Congreso. Only just got here in time, tho wasn't critical if I had missed it. Got up 0645 after semi-snoozing in bed from 0630 alarm. Felt a bit depressed/worried but usual pre-flight stuff. Cleaned teeth, had couple of bananas, packed last few bits and pieces. Fingers crossed all OK.

Teensy bit of trouble getting reader on bus to accept my card but driver was OK about it, I was prob just being a nervy idiot and putting it on reader and taking it off at wrong moments.

0953 At gate. All pretty smooth, bus got to airport about 0840, loitered landside to drink my bottle of water and have some biscuits then dropped bag off - bit worried as I didn't get any kind of receipt for it, but probably be OK. Guy spoke to me in English so not a language issue. Bag is checked through to London, don't need to collect it in Zurich.

Security unproblematic tho noticed a sign saying up to 5 litres of liquid allowed!? This might have been a different "channel" , it wasn't right over where I went through, no idea. Managed to avoid setting off metal detector by forgetting to remove anything.

No problem with passport control either, tho guy was slouching back in his chair and couldn't see him when booth 14 showed up as my booth and thought was no one there. But all OK.

Of course a) it would be too late to print boarding pass and b) you couldn't rely on it, but a sign nearby (where I can see the Norwegian flight to Gatwick waiting - half wish I was on it but it was expensive and annoying plus at least I will land at LCY which ought to be super convenient) offers 10 pages of printing for free if you e-mail files to some address. Though don't know if is any free wifi to e-mail with.

Feel a bit edgy at being separated from my bag but it's fine. On the homeward bound leg it is much less critical if it goes astray - I can live without all the stuff in it and it's just an insurance claim (assuming not shafted by lack of a receipt, but I didn't get one, I didn't lose it) and might even be a net win if I get new stuff to replace old stuff (tho really rather it didn't happen).

Guy at baggage drop/checkin desk offered me a couple of boarding passes on ground they're smaller than the A4 prints I had. I took him up since he seemed to think it was best, and this at least means I have duplicate paper boarding passes even without relying on phone electronic ones.

1120 Yes, free wifi too. And some electric sockets (and apparently broken USB ports on the one I tried) so squashed a bit more power into phone. Not really nec as have power bank fully charged but still.

Jeez, the boarding queue is enormous. I noticed when checked in online the front half of plane seemed to be *solidly* booked, no gaps at all. I can't believe this is true - why would no one have picked the aisle or window seats free towards back? - and maybe this was business class seats just being clumsily made unavailable to me.

Since I only have my tiny daypack which I want to keep under seat in front of me so no worries about running out of overhead locker space and whatever seat I have is reserved, I don't really need to worry about rushing on board.

1142 On plane, seating as advertised, seats pretty narrow (more than usual? hard to be sure) but got my aisle seat so don't really care too much. Do have a seatmate but can't always be lucky and didn't expect otherwise given business.

Phone did some weird quiet beepy? vibratey thing as in queue, but can't see any sign of it playing up now or any messages, and this wasn't a regular kind of signal.

This is an A340-300; let's entertain myself briefly with the safety card.

Announcement in German/English/Spanish touting 50 free seats in economy max - I think the Spanish announcement said it costs CHF90 but wasn't really listening, I don't think the English announcement said price!

Given this 50 seats free (I saw those seats; not worth the money to me as long as have my aisle seat) and fact we seemed to board "behind" some cabin windows I suspect there may also be a business/first section up front and the two combined explained that solidly booked section at front of aircraft as was choosing my seat, but who knows?

1150 225+1 passengers on board according to cabin crew announcement in English, which seems a tiny bit odd on this flight where I'd have expected German or Spanish.

1646 (BA time) Watched The Old Man & The Gun (OK) and Catch Me If You Can (fairly enjoyable). We had lunch roughly in between those two, no choice but some actually very acceptable pork+vegetable dish and some rice and bread and a small dessert, with orange juice and coffee. Been given a bottle of water which is nice. No free booze on this flight in economy but not a big deal.

Cabin is blacked out and lots of people with blankets on; it is of course bright sunlight outside when someone cracks a window blind but I think we're trying to create a night effect to help people sleep/counter jet lag. I do feel a little tired but not that much so. See how it goes, no point trying to force myself to sleep.

Usual (?) plane thing where I seem to have gas escaping from my arse, although I think it's not too odorous and is probably somehow related to the pressure.

Tue 0019 (BA time) Didn't sleep too badly, for a flight. Think I missed out on a small snack earlier due to having eyes shut or actually being asleep. Breakfast OK, bit of fruit salad and some sliced meat and cheese with bread and orange juice and coffee. We land in maybe an hour.

Watched Wallace & Gromit: Curse of the Were-Rabbit as falling asleep last night; not bad but was getting a bit bored towards end.

0654 (Zurich) Airside after security waiting for gate. Woman (whose passport was green) who evidently spoke little English just came and showed me her boarding pass (for a flight to Manchester), I think she was unclear on her gate so went to screen to check it for her. Nice to be able to help for once. :-)

0656 OK, at gate D41.

Phone batt 68% without needing to charge it since that little top up at BA airport, so should get me home OK even with bit of reading here.

Oh, noticed as boarding plane at BA that I *did* have a luggage receipt on back of the Zurich-London boarding pass after all.

0832 On plane (Embraer 190), got my aisle seat so all good. Flight seems reasonably full and do have seatmate but not a problem.

1003 Fifteenish mins from landing. Topped phone up bit from powerbank while reading on it during flight anyway. Given a croissant, which was noticeably less sticky and sweet than the ones I'd had in Argentina.

1047 (presumably Zurich time) On DLR just leaving City airport. Only got off plane about 0930 so pretty sweet really. Automated passport gate worked once I took my glasses off; you'd think there'd be a reminder. Bag turned up fairly sharpish and brief look as put daypack in suggests duty free is intact but not checked properly. Went through "nothing to declare" lane but it was unmanned so no one said anything to me. Quick flick through a leaflet suggested my alfajores don't upset anyone, I don't think they count as fruit/veg/plant/animal produce though arguably jut about all food ultimately comes from one of those, but don't think that is the intent otherwise it would just say "no food" after all.

1024 Got home maybe 1010, perhaps a smidge earlier. Been faffing with post and boiler and beeping smoke detector since got in. But things seem mostly OK.

2035 Prob send this soon. FWIW I had to learn a returnable empty litre bottle of Iguana beer in flat; due to minor rush on Sun evening didn't have chance to try returning it. But I only got charged about ARS11 for the deposit and I did get two bottles of Iguana while in BA so that only adds about ARS6 to each bottle, so still cheap.

Feeling a bit yawny and eyes sort of wanting to close/go kind of swimmy earlier but not too bad. Having some coffee (not specifically to address this) and will go to bed if I really want to any time from now, but may well be gone midnight anyway as really don't feel that bad.

2314 It was slightly disconcerting when I got home to find just how messy the flat was - with being away so much and having travel stuff lying around as well as the usual clutter it's a bit of a state. But I'm not getting too worked up about it, just saying I had - perhaps a good thing - completely forgotten about eg leaving bits of documentation and unwanted travel gear unpacked after Guatemala trip lying around to be sorted "later" .

Buenos Aires, Sunday

Sun 1357 At Bar Polo, not too busy, chap didn't seem to hold a grudge after poss rudeness last time, even asked me "bife?" unprompted. One of cats was at street door as I arrived so I touched it lightly on the back.

Very hot today, at least compared to what am used to lately.

Altho I remain a tiny bit dubious the seat plans will turn out to be wrong (eg it seems to be a 2+4+2 configuration and there's no row C) and I'll end up in a non-aisle seat despite getting a choice, the online checkin was actually super smooth so kudos to Edelweiss for that if nothing else. I got to check in and choose seats and both flights and I can check in with phone if want, tho would prefer to have paper as backup. Went to net cafe to print but they had problems; they are open til 11pm and I will prob see if can find a net cafe near here after eating and if they *do* shut early I have phone as a fallback.

Double-checked bus stop for 8 to airport on way over here, did see now I knew to half look for it the words "semirapido" on the stop so that is reassuring. Prob going to aim to leave flat 7ish and get 735 bus; this gets me to airport 830ish which is really too early for 1155 flight but it's just not worth the stress of trying to save myself 30-60 mins of hanging around at airport by aiming for a later bus, because I have to allow time for things going wrong.

1728 At Indoor Bar; did go to LDC but they only take Visa (have one in hidden belt but rather not dig it out and it is credit if that might matter) and also I thought they did pizza but they don't. IB takes Visa and Mastercard so I feel safer (I have about 150ish in cash), getting pint of Patagonia Weisse (happy hour til 9, ARS80) and a ham and pepper pizza - not super hungry as obviously ate earlier but seems prudent to lard out prior to flight.

Struggled bit to find net cafe open round San Telmo (some on GM showing as open weren't) but trogged over to 24h Atomik on Belgrano and printed single copy of boarding passes no fuss; cost 25, I fished in pocket to offload change but really had little tho I did pay 5 of 25 in change.

Then trogged back to Lezama Park and spent an hour semi-meditating while staring in vague direction of blue-domed church. Then back up Defensa (chocka with stalls and bovine crowds, but vaguely cool to see it again) to here.

Noticed a Carrefour Express showing it shutd at 8 Sun so prob the one near flat will as well but also passed a Dia open til 10 so not going to worry about it. If I ultimately can't buy a few packets of alfajores as gifts it is not the end of the world.

Going to have 2-3 pints here, take my time then home I think.

1800 Second beer. "Here's to the times!" :-) For some reason woke up with HMHB's "Alehouse Futsal" running through my head. Spotted a drawing on wall of a coffee shop on walk over to BP with a woman holding a handbag with "Every day is like Sunday" written on it, which changed the mental record. En route to net cafe after BP I briefly detoured round a covered market (prob mainly for tourists but since they had some baskets of cheap ordinary cutlery for sale maybe it's a bit more general) and happened to spot a stall selling toy cars which had a couple of the Matchbox Greyhound buses I had seen on Marty's Matchbox Makeovers (and which had never seen before in real life) during my YT binges, which was oddly cool (but not remotely tempted to buy). For some reason, not long after leaving the market on way to net cafe I ended up with Max Bygraves' "Civilisation" in my head; just possibly this was indirectly triggered by an old metal-looking Fernet advert/wall plaque which I saw as was leaving market which suggested enjoying it with vermouth and had a rather stereotyped black bartender (which seems a little odd here in Argentina, and the text was in Spanish, but what do I know).

1930 Mostly finished third pint^Whalf litre. Made a point for the last one of staring round instead of reading on phone. Tempted to have a fourth but prob best to "leave 'em wanting more" ; I need to walk home and get some stuff (alfajores, some water, snacks for flight) and sober up a bit and then pack and it's foolish to spoil things by overdoing it. Street market stall people been packing up most of last hour.

Mon 0047 Found a supermarket open but halfway through shopping I asked about cards as having some bananas weighed and they only took Visa debit, so had to put everything back. But was a Dia a bit further along and got what I wanted. Quite a nice walk back past Casa Colorada and pretty close to obelisk. Have packed while watching some YT and eating some bananas.

Had to wash trousers so hope they are dry by morning. Bit edgy about departure but it should be fine, I perhaps "should" be in bed but I'm pretty much sober so don't expect to oversleep alarms and until I start yawning there seems little point going to bed, esp as I need to leave phone charging overnight instead of reading on it as I go to sleep. If I am tired tomorrow as long as I don't oversleep it's quite good as it should help me sleep on plane (tho I think the flight is perhaps rather awkwardly timed in that regard).

Buenos Aires, Saturday

Sat 1504 In street. Got up lateish and only left flat maybe ten or twenty mins ago to go buy Fernet to take home. (Guys at lang exch confirmed incidentally the "t" is not silent.)

Shop - green (supermarkets here don't seem to show their full name, they just all seem to say "express" ) "express" supermarket had scoped out as cheapest refused to let me pay for it by card (tho they take cards), only cash. Rude woman at till said she'd told me this three times. She hadn't, because we had not been talking - it's not like there was some babble at me I hadn't understood.

Anyway, went to the orange "express" where staff seem helpful. They only have 75cl bottles (I want a litre which is duty free allowance) but will let me pay by card. So said I might go back.

Shop next door - which looked more small businessy - also had 1 lt bottles but again said "vino" sales had to be in cash, even if I bought some food too. WTactualF?

Can't buy at airport as I have non-direct flight and any liquids I buy airside would have to go in hand luggage and would be confiscated at security before my Zurich-London flight. Because terrorism.

Spotted cheap and cheerful 100g for ARS22 restaurant but some weird guy came out as was peering in window and asked if I was in queue. (Because only about 90% of tables were empty...) I left and wrote the above and came back but he's still sitting on the wall outside, so I'm not eating there as he could start hassling me somehow.

1614 OK, back at flat for a bit. On semi-whim was going to eat at small restaurant but I asked and chap said they couldn't take cards today so I had to leave. Yes this is letting cash v cash control my actions but not significantly. Went to ZT Restaurant more or less opposite flat, had half intended to try that at some point too. Again paid by weight. I went 1725ish and was  big queue outside for the half price takeaway only offer starting offer (I checked w guy at front of queue to make sure didn't start a riot by pushing in; and just *maybe* this is what the I-thought-him-weird guy at other by weight restaurant was referring to re queue if they have similar offer he was waiting for), I managed to get my food before that horde came in. Not quite the buffet experience I had hoped for; I thought I might be allowed multiple visits with a weighing every time and pay at the end but instead I got a smallish flimsy plastic box and filled that up rather awkwardly then got a drink and paid before eating. Still, my debit card did work. Chips were a bit cold (unlike a buffet I couldn't take a few, try them then go back for more if good) but OK, had two substantialish pieces of chicken which were pretty decent if not piping hot and a bit of veg rice to fill up box. Not super cheap at 214.80 plus 45 for a coke zero (tho 45 for the coke was a good price for a restaurant), didn't tip given self-service nature. Bit awkward eating all this out of the smallish plastic container but was OK. Overall not bad and was a fairly substantial meal.

1810 Hung around flat perhaps too long and just popped out a couple of times, back now. Getting a tiny bit edgy I'd struggle to top up Sube card at a Subte stn on Sunday, so noticing kiosk on corner which had sign outside went in and put 50 (cash; didn't ask about card) on which should give me considerable safety margin. Also went into another couple of smallish kiosks (shops, not stands on street - but they call them kioskos here so using kiosk in English) - first had 1 lt bottles but no cards, second had 1 lt bottles (of Fernet Branca, as elsewhere, which seems the "premium" brand and no point economising here) at only 300 (usually 335 or even 355 elsewhere) and took debit cards, but only Visa. :-( And my Staring is Mastercard. Even popped home to check Monzo card and that"s Mastercard too. Have Visa *credit* cards but he said debit only.

Wandered out again and found an independent-ish supermarket which had litre for 335 and would let me pay by card. I *think* woman at till said debit only but not sure; I didn't care as had Starling debit card ready. During checkout she then told me it was a credit card - I know full well it isn't, but (saying "no me importa" which I can never remember if is rude or not but hope I softened it up enough if it was) I said I didn't mind if it worked but my bank said it was a debit card. Anyway, the transaction went through anyway (half wonder if I could have lied and told the shop which had it for 300 my Visa ccard was debit but prob not have worked and if it had might fuck them over on fees and felt a bit off) and I've now got my duty free. It's annoying to have paid 35 more than I needed, if I had more cash to hand would have happily paid 300 cash (on "large" cash wd the fee is about 5% so a 10% saving wrell worth it), but I don't and I think without seriously crippling myself for remaining time here I can get by without needing to wd more cash so mentally offset that extra 35 against the 200-250ish I would (will) get charged if I have to wd cash.

Definitely feeling a bit edgy re impending departure and especially the fucking online checkin tomorrow morning but it will probably be OK and the realistic worst case is I get a shitty middle seat between two fat bastards and I'm uncomfortable for 12h or so. This sucks but it is not unbearably awful, though I may be inclined to panic a bit all the same.

Starling popup showing purchase when got back to flat confirms amount was 335 and that this is £6.06, which feels pretty good for a litre of "quality" spirits. I quite like these Starling popups though esp when I don't have mobile data out and about their appearance (possibly en masse) on regaining net access if mildly disturbing. It also doesn't help that when you go to cash machine, try to wd and cancel because you don't like the fee (and IIRC sometimes because you put too big an amount in and the cash machine initiated the txn with my bank before cancelling it itself) you get two msgs (wd and cancel) popping up but the notifications get truncated and it can look a bit like the cancels are not cancels but extra wds. Not a huge problem but just waffling.

I will wrap the bottle up in all my clothes when I pack and just have to hope it makes it home intact.

1826 Poking on web to check bus 8 info, it looks like max fare is under 30 and (more importantly) there is a semi-fast service from Congreso (the stop near me) at x05 and x35, first x=7. This is from a web page which has a semi-official Twitter feed embedded in it with some photos of the info so bit dubious but probably be OK.

1844 Just done web search on offchance could see what's on at La Paz Arriba tonight and it seems to be some tarot-reading and the like thing from midnight to 4am. So I'll be going elsewhere I think. OK, their Facebook page says it starts at 9pm but otherwise the same thing. Not a big deal, and at least I found out before I went.

2149 Came out about 2110. Just come into Pool bar at Sarmiento 1548. Having litre of Quilmes Cristal (no card pmt tonight tho wasn't banking on this anyway), 180 and will make it 200 with tip. Then home, I have a 500ml can in fridge. Feeling quite on edge re online checkin; this kicked in as was walking down Corrientes through heaving crowd maybe 20 mins ago, no idea if connected with crowd or not. Edelweiss have been so massively unhelpful and contradictory with everything so far I can so easily see the online checkin tomorrow just flatly denying my booking exists (even before we worry about seat selection) and perhaps not allowing me to check in for Zurich-London leg. It could well be fine, this is pretty fundamental shit when you're operating an airline, but I'm getting really anxious. Also not looking forward to having to get to airport Mon morning and I half wish I was just home already.

Not v busy in here but a few ppl. Tis OK, am not looking for chat.

Plan was just to head along Corrientes and see if anything turned up. As it happens there was some kind of pseudo street party and the street was blocked to traffic with an arch and banners saying "Vivamos la nueva Calle Corrientes" and images were being projected on obelisk and there was a band+singer at one end etc. It was prob really rammed on pavement because of this attraction. I am not really sure what is new about it. It was sort of cool to see this by sheer chance but there wasn't to me anything tremendously exciting to see and I don't like those real dense bovine crowds where it's painfully slow to get along (four or five blocks seemed to take 20-30 mins but maybe imagined it).

OK, that's the writeup done, let's have some beer and read or muse. Sitting inside here FWIW.

2254 Nearly finished this litre. Notwithstanding the half litre can at home and wondering when I'll drink it, I am tempted to get another here. I had budgeted for a bigger spend than 400 on beer tonight from my remaining cash and while I may have a couple out tomorrow night (and more likely tomorrow early evening) I really do have an early start Mon whereas tomorrow while I damn well don't want to be I don't need to be up and doing til 11 at the earliest. It's not super nice here but there's a bit of life and it's a bit more "BA" than squatting in my flat with a can and YT.

Don't know if it's beer or sitting down and having a read of book on phone or what but while still perhaps a tiny bit tense re tomorrow and online checkin, feeling better than I did when the anxiety was borderline disturbing.

2303 Practically finished. Prob will have another litre then home. Am thinking going for a couple at Yrigoyen tomorrow evening is not super smart given 7am-ish start Mon; I will prob have a few at LDC (after checking can pay by card) tomorrow later afternoon and then spend the evening in, with that single can. May feel differently tomorrow night but given the 7am start it makes a lot of sense not to be out in the evening. I can buy another beer (on ccard) from supermarket to have at home if I want too. It's not like BY is a guaranteed feel-good place, had mixed results, I can OD on musing and reflection tomorrow afternoon at Lezama Park if I'm not chasing round like a blue-arsed fly trying to sort out online checkin all day.

Going for slash then prob get another.

Place is quite deep with lot of pool tables at back bogs right at far end, two idiots having chat in the bogs but fuck 'em. Place might be called Bs. As. City, though that seems such a generic name maybe it's a chain (but called what? Pool bar???) and that is just name of this branch. Not that it matters but this is why put address earlier to remove ambiguity.

I will have another litre, then home.

Quick poke at menu to reassure myself re price, bottled beer isn't too bad at I say 180 for litre Quilmes Cristal, but a *335ml* draught Quilmes (not something fancy like Unicorn Tears IPA) is 100!

2323 On a whim checked wifi networks and is one calls BS AS CITY so prob is name of bar. Not really desperate for net access so won't ask for pwd.

2335 Oh, completely irrelevant but while at Restaurant ZT I heard (on the radio, I think) Juanes' "Camisa Negra" , which was oddly cheering.

Feeling a bit more cheerful/comfortable even if also a bit Billy No Mates. But as already waffled, tonight was not the night for trying to get out and socialise. The trip as a whole obviously hasn't lived up to the travel socialisation of everyone else I ever speak to or read about on bed, but it hasn't been so bad.

0005 Not too far off finishing this litre, which has slipped down surprisingly quickly. I don't think a third is on cards tho, both from cash preservation and checkin tomorrow (today now) perspectives.

It would clearly have been better to be flying home mid-week, both from a "can go out Fri/Sat without fear" POV and from a "trying to check in online and failing but it's Sunday and can't get hold of anyone" POV, but I remember booking these flights and I was constrained by a) precise dates which were cheap for flights b) wanting to be home (in Skegness) for Easter given it was "easily" possible - had Easter come 2/3 of way through any plausible 90 day trip I'd prob have accepted being away (Easter is not Christmas!), but since it was so late it seemed too good an opportunity to pass up c) perhaps not wanting to leave UK "too early" due to nerves d) need/imagined need to spend time in Lon flat between returning to UK and going up to Skegness for insurance purposes.

No, even if it turned out they did take cards (I will ask jic, though expect to be told no), a third litre is not savvy given checkin at 11/12. I just might have that can when I get home, but far from sure. Don't get me wrong, I am still sitting here BNM and it's just a bar, but the sense of life and a bit of borderline cheesy music is quite fun, esp when I'm facing the minor shit of returning home (checkin, getting to airport, flights, security screenings, etc) and thus have a mild case of "carpe diem" syndrome.

Sun 2356 Just to finish this off briefly, I went home - you know I'm sure I've already written this somewhere but maybe it got lost - and had that can in fridge (which I didn't exactly want) while watching some YT and then went to bed fairly late. I asked and they wouldn't take cards tonight, but fair enough they had waned on the sign on the door.

Buenos Aires, Friday

Fri 1458 At Bar Polo, finished eating. Food not bad. Fear may have been inadvertently rude to owner (?) chap, who brought a salad over and I thought asked if I had ordered it so I said no, just chips (I already had stake) and I'm a bit worried he was offering it to me as a kind of free extra. It was probably dressed so I couldn't have eaten it anyway but as I say bit concerned was accidentally rude. Cant be helped anyway.

airbnb host gave me refund this morning - about six quid less than I expected but I have no idea why (*possibly* due to me using a "coupon" which was a refund for earlier cancelled booking, tho that should be invisible to them, or maybe they've only refunded 20% of their cut and not airbnb fees or whatever) but I think I'm going to just not worry about it rather than quibble.

I did misinterpret (doing a proper translation of msg re discount few days ago it was kind of obvious) their original msg and I think I should have guessed it would be via airbnb not cash, so I shouldn't have started spending my cash reserve instead of ccard in anticipation of getting more cash from them. I do prefer airbnb refund direct to ccard in general, except for my misinterpeting their intentions and thus as I say spending cash when I could have been using ccard. So I may well be forced to wd more cash and thus incur a four or five quid cash machine fee, which is galling, but I need to be careful not to let a desire to minimise cash spend in order to maybe avoid having to do this control how I spend these last few days.

They also raised via airbnb possibility the street door would be locked with key when I leave 7-8am Mon and I might not be out and suggested I speak to concierge; I did as I came out and she said encargadora (cleaner??) would be around from 7 so it should be fine. I just hope I don't come a cropper here. Tho while not planned in detail yet I may be leaving 8 or even past 8 in which case concierge herself would prob be on duty.

Felt bit tired-not-quite-hungover this morning and drowsed rather fitfully in bed for ages. It's OK, I don't have huge plans to run round cramming tourist stuff in every day because I'm about to go home and I just want to enjoy myself quietly, so to speak.

2221 Just got to Bar Yrigoyen (incidentally noticed another bar called that on walk over to BP earlier). Left flat maybe 2130, had got bit edgy about coming out, ended up circling vaguely north past (as it happened) Palacio de Aguas Corrientes in vague quest of possible live music at La Porteña but I either walked right past it or it wasn't open. Didn't really see anywhere massively appealing to me so figured come back here. Could maybe have sought out a lang exch or similar socialisation opportunity but I sort of didn't want to; if it wasn't my last few days I might even have stayed in, nagging feeling of concern at drinking so much even tho it's really in control - also if not last few days would prob go to lang exch thing Sat night but as it is prob won't given it's in Palermo and need to be up and sober for online checkin and don't want to be tempted to stay out all night or feel crap at having to walk away early, and if I were planning on doing that Sat and had been out last night I prob would feel "better" about not coming out tonight. But as it is this is the last night I mostly don't have to worry about getting up to do something critical in trip.

Feel mildly sad to be coming to end of trip and to be leaving BA but as usual better to feel that than to be glad, and it will also be nice to be able to move onto a new phase of life back in UK I am also probably not going to be 3-4 years without going abroad this time.

2245 Do feel a bit on edge. Not stressed out, just a bit uncomfortable. There's a mildly cold breeze blowing intermittently, tho I have fleece on and it's not really uncomfortable and lots of other ppl outside too.

2340 Nearly finished this litre. Feeling better if not exactly chilled out. Don't intend to try to record every detail of conversation last night, but suddenly remember for some reason that apparently the water temperature at Argentinian seaside resorts (bearing in mind the northern part of the country has no coast) is Skegness-ish - it can be 30C on the beach but 15Cish (which I have a vague recollection is max temp off Skegnesss) in the water.

Will prob have a second litre and then go home unless feel massively different. I assume I can only pay cash here but I am resigned to wd some more tomorrow (I tried getting cashback at a shop earlier but was told by quite helpful staff they can't do it on foreign and/or chip+pin cards - I thought I'd nicely outmaneouvered the Argentinian banks with their swingeing wd fees and insanely low wd caps, but I hadn't) and as said earlier not going to let avoiding one wd fee spoil last few nights. I am drinking a bit too much lately but nothing crazy, it's "understandable" and I will probablty have a quiet low-alcohol period back in UK.

(I have enough cash not to have had to wd this afternoon; I am resigned to doing it but esp as inflation is running about 5% pa here I don't want to be stuck with lots of cash when I leave either, so the later I do leave the wd the better I can judge how much I need without underdoing it and having to pay another wd fee or massively overdoing it - tho will err on high side I think.)

I checked Sube card balance earlier, I have 30. Official info on web re bus fares hard to come by, I think 30 is enough for bus to airport but (tho maybe complicated by inflation) also be good to have enough to get bus from airport on next visit wo having to top up at airport and of course I *really* don't want to find my balance is too low at 8am on Mon. I think you can go overdrawn on Sube as on Oyster so prob no risk of this but not worth taking risk, so will put 50ish on it at some point in next day or two.

Not busting for slash but will have one when finish first litre and thus no beer to be stolen or tampered with in my absence (tho neither feels likely).

2352 Inside small but fairly busy, tho also lot of ppl outside. I was given an ashtray I didn't ask for or need tonight, which I wasn't last time - possibly this is just chance, but maybe it's just cold enough (though it's bothering me less, tho have zipped up fleece) that the waitress figured if I was sitting outside I wanted to smoke.

"Mr Postman" 60s song playing from inside...

I am yawning a bit FWIW, tho hardly got up early unless you count the slightly broken sleep.

0004 I'm not sitting here waving like a drowning man but really struggling to get any attention from the waitress.

0005 Ordered another. This isn't unwelcome or unpleasant but I don't have the feeling of mild joy or whatever I had the last two nights, it feels like I'm out for the sake of it, and I feel a little bit uncomfortably hemmed in by groups which inhibit me staring out at street if I wanted to; I'd end up with eye contact I didn't want. Meh. End of trip stuff I guess.

0034 Ah, adjacent table group leaving. I don't really feel exactly meditative, but should prob do a bit of examining the view instead of reading (re-reading Watership Down ATM as it happens!) on phone.

0123 Last not-tiny glass of this litre. Outside decidedly quieter, music from inside and far from dead but this evidently is not a super-lively place on Fri nights. Have done a bit of meditative staring and it wasn't totally forced but it's an awkward-feeling night all round.

0129 Can't hear well but a Spanish-language version of Achy Breaky Heart (I know two, "thanks" to Valeria) seems to be coming from inside.

Despite slash after first litre feel bit busting. Will go for slash when finish this and see if I can pay inside and ask on offchance about paying by card. Can't help feeling for a tourist the worst of Argentina is this shit with withdrawing cash.

0151 Home. No way is it 20 mins walk. I had slash and loitered at bar and finished that last glass before getting here. As it turned out I could pay by card - debit only. So fished Starling out of hidden belt. Bill 340 - not cheap but expected and not bad - and I said (no idea if is valid Spanish or not) "digamos 380" after had asked and bloke said could put tip on card (in Corrientes was told could not do this). Originally saw bloke type 340 into terminal and wondered if had been lang issue and was fiddling with cash on hand to tip, but then he did a second go at terminal for tip. No idea why, maybe some odd legal issue. Argentinian PIN terminals have the disturbing habit of not showing the amount you're "signing" for and I had a momentary horror he'd have entered something insane (like a hundred quid; at least on Starling card anything over my £240ish balance should fail unlike credit card) but he had done 40. And you nearly always have to sign and write passport no on receipt too, tho I have no idea what happens if you enter correct PIN and then refuse to sign. And incidentally the Carrefour Express just down the road often takes my (Halifax Clarity) ccard for smallish purchases without asking me to enter PIN *or* sign, which seems deeply odd but I figure it's their business - if there is dirty work afoot I will notice when I check my statement and if they have neither PIN nor signature they hopefully won't have a leg to stand on.

Given this if I only hadn't burned 800ish of easily credit cardable spend on cash due to laziness in getting "gist" of an WA msg from host re refund instead of translating properly maybe I'd have avoided need for another wd. As it is I won't rush to wd (I could only chance this tonigh cos I had cash on hand if they said no) but I suspect I won't make it the rest of time here without wd cash.

Had been trying to sketch out last few days yday in my head. I am going to eat at Bar Polo Sunday after checkin online (if dont spend hours on phone due to shit), may then go sit in PL and perhaps a pizza and couple of beers at Lo De Carlitos after, then pack and stay home for night. I may go to La Paz Arriba tomorrow night and see if they have live music. And just poss as well as/instead of LDC on Sun I will go to Bar Yrigoyen for a couple that evening, esp now I know can pay by card.

Seemed a bit quiet inside as left but what do I know? GM could be wrong anyway but I think it was that BY not the other one which was open 24h.

Not really pissed but slightly tired and will move towards bed, I think.

0242 Been topping up phone (as want to read myself to sleep and not charging in bed even if had cable capable of it) and having bit of water. Incidentally asked at BP earlier if could pay by card and said no; bit dubious as they seemed to have an aging photocopy displayed which half implied contrary but whatever.

Buenos Aires, Thursday

Fri 0031 Not sure if going home or not and will prob write bulk of Thu up tomorrow but at La Paz Arriba just round corner from flat, been listening to some pretty decent solo piano+singing since lang exchange petered out. Outside the big window behind piano is a vibrant exciting green neon sign 1920s Hollywood detective film style which I finally noticed an hour or so ago (the top of the word is not visible, it is vertical lettering one letter wide) merely says "PAPAFRITA" and I can indeed see a less dramatic cinema-esque sign says "El Palacio de La Papa Frita" below it. The nominally more dramatic "Teatro Porteno" has a duller sign at right edge of window.

Not sure if pianist going to come back on, tho has if anything been getting busier over last hour altho I think I am the last remnant of lang exch, while held out until an early-Zuhamy-esque Argentinian woman whose name I have sadly forgotten and who had been speaking to me in English for maybe an hour as most lang exchers disappeared left maybe 11ish.

This bar actually feels comfortable except the initial impression was of a pseudo-student-union wanky political activism hangout. I noticed this as was queueing to pay for lang exch at 1830. There's a big banner in Portuguese on wall saying "Les bi as bichas as/os sapatão contra el golpe con marielle" which I don't understand but get broad sentiment of , the bog doors seem to be sex-segregated  but are confusingly labelled and have a nearby sign saying macho or racist behaviour won't be tolerated, there's a small painting of two nuns kissing above the bar (though this is just art and not really in same category as other stuff I'm mentioining) and I think I saw a pro-abortion slogan somewhere near bar and various posters for debates or rallies which I didn't examine closely. The paradox here is I'm really a very live and let live guy by inclination and have no real objection to any of the lifestyles or issues involved, I'm broadly nominally on the same side, but I also really fucking despise the social engineering culture-shaping campaigning "you must think like this" attitude I perceive behind all this shit, rightly or wrongly.

Pianist seems to be packing up his music and tho no pissed and it's moderately busy I have spent enough and not that anxious to stay out if no more music. Realised earlier (tho have sent msg with no reply yet asking for clarity) 20% discount is prob going to be airbnb+credit card which means I shouldn't have burned ARS800 odd on cash spend I could have put on card. Not a big deal. All but first of my five beers tonight cost 100 (first 75) and tho it wasn't clear from meetup.com description I was told when confirmed by email had to pay 200 for lang exch, tho this did include mate (the meetup I prob was dubious about week or two back prob meant yerba mate not mate as in sex) - custom seemed to be for table of four/five to pass one cup round, but I'm not too fastidious and tho first sip was bit weird I actually rather enjoyed it and drank my share, good to finally try it too - and tostadas tho I didn't see anyone eat any. Not exactly terrible price but felt a bit deceptive not being in meetup.com listing.

May be another meeting of same group but in Palermo (an hourish walk away? tho woman speaking to last told me I could safely get cab on street there) on Sat night. See how I feel.

Do need to write up night and indeed day properly tomorrow but just bashing this out as linger before leaving. Will say this morning (well midday ish) as was cutting nails I found the "lost" 32GB SD card in my cube tube as dug scissors out. In hindsight I *don't* remember that being open on my bunk when I lost the card, as surely I would have dug through it, but FWIW the card was there, which was a very nice little surprise. It's prob not worth much and I had other copies of its contents but still nice to discover I hadn't lost it.

Couldn't help feeling as sat here alone after chat and listening to music and looking out at central-ish BA that when I was (say) 15 I'd never have imagined I'd be here like this. That's not to say my life is great, but still, things don't always work our better or worse or the same as you might predict, if you had been bothered to predict. I am actually not sure how I might have imagined my life at 42 when I was 15, whether positively or negatively.

Oh, last-spoken-to woman (I guessed she was 27, she was 30 - easily margin of error, kudos, and I erred on right side) said I looked 37ish when told her I was 42. Perhaps she was trying to flatter me but WTF, I'll take it. (She guessed before me, FWIW.)

It's now 0048, nearly finished this pint, clearly no more music tho is quite busy but while I *could* comfortably drink another pint or two, I am not desperate and it doesn't really feel right.

Peruvian chap spoke to earlier during lang exch told me Centro Cultural near here has free jazz every Tue night. Sadly no good to learn that now but will try to remember it for next time am here.

Feels a bit of a shame to leave now but also no reason not to. Tonight has been more social and more musical than I had hoped, I had mentally pencilled in Fri night to try to find some live music/go out late (Sat night I have checkin shit Sun morning and Sun night I have early departure for flight) and I will prob still do that, but it's still super cool to have stumbled on some live music here post lang exchange and not that I was feeling super pressured that takes pressure off even more for Fri night.

Rpeating myself but while feels a shame to leave when it's moderately busy (busier than most of night TBH), there is no music, I've had quite a few beers and it just isn't worth pushing it, I've had a lot of conversation too and not desperate for or optimistic of finding someone to chat to so let's just go.

Will write up more details tomorrow, unless I feel super energetic about writing when get home which I doubt.

0058 Home. Just opened windows for first time and peering out (and also paying attention to orientation as walked up stairs for first time) I can see the flat does in fact look out over the street the entrance is on, I can see (tho not read name of) New Fama just down street and see the paintings on the wall of the building immediately opposite.

Fri 1430 At Bar Polo but let's just bash out bit more to finish Thu entry.

Didn't go out much pre lang exch, just to scope out prices for fernet/alfajores to take home and get bit of food to cook in flat.

Lang exch was quite good, as think already said got to try maté. Everyone moved to new table halfway through so got to talk with few people and I think my Spanish was OK and people seemed to mostly understand my English. Apparently a lot of English language teaching in Argentina favours British English and pronunciation. Lot of US students on exchange (at Belgrano univ) for six months and had one of them in one of my groups but didn't meet any other Brits, not to say there weren't any there.

People seemed to stay on after unlike a lot of other ones been to and had five pints total. A lot of people had left by maybe 10pm but a woman came up and started talking to me (just in English) as already mentioned and we were prob last two. She left - she lived about an hour and a half away - maybe 11-1130 and I stayed on my own as pianist had come back on (she was there during his first half) and I was only a block or two from home and wanted to enjoy the live music.

Prob repeating myself as not re-read older part of this entry but this is a bit of a bashing out of what I did etc not anything really urgent or specially interesting I want to note down.

Buenos Aires, Wednesday

Wed 2237 At flat. Just sent e-mail asking if can attend a language exchange just round corner tomorrow; the one I originally picked out is an hour's walk away and runs from 9-11pm and charges ARS250 (though you get a free drink), I will go to that one if I must but prefer this other one - it's local, prob free and it's 630-8ish so I can feel freer to hang around after if want and if not can go out on own after if want.

Didn't sleep super well, woke up feeling a bit un-rested and uneasy, not really hungover but weird. Hot water wouldn't work when turned gas on and relit pilot light; sent message to host and got home late-ish tonight to some instructions on knob twiddling, which is fair enough and no one's had a go but not sure how I was supposed to know this. No sign of my 20% discount yet, given time is running out to spend any cash I may politely ask about this tomorrow morning but tho far from drunk won't do it tonight as it's late-ish and I have had a few beers and may be accidentally rude.

Walked down to Bar Polo leaving flat maybe 12-1ish, had decent steak and chips and then went to nearby modern art museum. (Incidentally when I went on Sun the beef was a bit rarer and possibly related was slightly tougher; Fri and today it was fairly well done though slightly pinkish and seemed tender.) No sign of ABTE (maybe it was never there, not checked old blog - may web search for it tomorrow tho not *that* bothered). Wasn't initially sure if taking photos allowed tho inferred it was after a while and seeing other ppl do it without staff objecting. However, partly due to being unsure and partly to avoid getting caught up photographing I mostly resisted temptation except in rather good exhibition in basement of quirky stuff by Max Gómez Canle. Rest of exhibits had some good stuff too though a lot of the accompanying text by the curator(s) (I mostly read the English versions out of laziness/speed) had a really wanky political pseudo-left-wing redefining-reality-with-words quality which reminded me of a bad Twitter binge. But I did enjoy some of the art, on my plebeian "I like looking at this" kind of level.

Didn't go to Lezama park; a smidge worried about getting mugged/phone stolen (super unlikely but did cross my mind) and also by time I left art museum (in there from maybe 3pm-5pm; oh, by sheer chance/good luck I went on the day of the week it's free, tho only ARS50 normally) I didn't really feel like going. So went to Bar Federal and tho originally only planned to have two beers I had three, fairly slowly, and finished off with a (not huge, as seems usual in Argentina - maybe 2-3 times volume of an espresso) black americano. I got given 2 free chicken wings with last two beers and also free peanuts in shell with first two beers. Expected to pay 100/110 for the beers as shown outside/on menu but figured I'd splurge a bit (it's not a huge splurge) as sort of like place and was there in Jan etc, but when got bill beers were only 80 each, maybe it was happy hour. Bill 305 all in, made it 360 with tip and made sure waiter took money and seemed happy before I left (tho was sitting inside so less risk of theft, but still). Did read on phone in there quite a bit plus write up the phoneless period over weekend but did a bit of meditative staring, quite a nice bar and strange to think I'd been there three months ago which sort of feels like forever. Prob got in there bit after 5pm and left maybe 8-830, was dark as left but obviously loads of ppl on street and not really drunk and walk home quite pleasant. Got some water and crackers at supermarket on way back and had some crackers while watching bit of YT.

Oh, there's an insect-control company roughly opposite modern art museum and a) I read the cockroach information sheet shown in window b) I have quite vivid (though possibly illusory) recollection of their window on my prev visit to modern art museum, maybe in 2014.

I also (think I) remember the huge wooden helix in the art museum from before.

After feeling a bit rough on waking up I had pretty much decided not to go out tonight, and of course I haven't. I don't regret this. Drinking late-afternoon as I did isn't ideal but it actually seems to have worked out quite well today, by time I got home it was 9ish and it's not like I'm pissed or have hours to sit around drunkenly until it's time for bed. A few other people in BF but not very busy, but it was quite nice really.

*Quick* Google for ABTE (spelled out in full) shows article about exhibition at modern art museum in 2014 which is presumably what I saw and a Facebook page which seems to have recent activity but it's not immediately obvious there is any kind of permanent exhibition associated with this. Haven't really tried to look into this in any detail.

Looking over photos for today, am reminded the art museum has a staircase which is labelled "this does not go to the second level sub-basement" . Given a woman who might have been a staff member (but prob wasn't) was initially stood halfway up it as I read this on ground floor, I found myself wondering a) if I was allowed to use it at all b) if it was in fact some Terry Pratchett anti-auditor trick/"this is not a pipe" kind of modern arty philosophical joke (like, don't tell me where it *doesn't* go, tell me where it *does* go - and it *also* doesn't go to London/hell/the end of the rainbow, among an infinity of non-destinations). I *did* use it once the woman went away and in hindsight a) this labelling appears on all three "public" floors above ground (0, 1, 2) and the warning makes a bit more sense on floors 1 and 2 where the stairs go up+down on floor 1 and down on floor 2 and you might think "aha, stairs with a down direction, if I take these I can get to second sub-basement (where there is also an exhibit - the Canle one mentioned above - floor -1 seems to be private and off limits)" and be disappointed on stopping at ground floor, but on the ground floor where the stairs head only up the warning is almost confusingly superfluous, because the stairs *clearly* only go up, and why would anyone expect them to access the sub-basement, and therefore (to me anyway, remembering I hadn't seen the higher floors yet) the warning seems instead to be hinting at something strange. I did photograph the stairs because of this whole business.

Just to be clear all this was *before* I went and had those beers. :-)

Thu 0049 Minor detail, but did observe a veritable stream of #126 buses go past El Federal; three in a row at one point, then a couple more a minute or two later. I assume that's not the normal frequency and they'd got bunched up, but it was a bit freaky.

0101 Bed soonish. Forgot to say earlier that the lift (or one of them; building seems to have a slightly confusingly large assortment of lifts and stairs) down from ground floor to -2 in modern art museum was super slow and super smooth and I actually felt a tiny shudder of panic after having got in (alone), pressed -2, had door shut and *nothing* seemed to have happened for what felt like ages - no movement, no doors opening. Then eventually I felt a barely perceptible shudder and the doors opened. I don't think this was entirely my imagination but hard to be sure of course.

0111 Sudden surge of slightly raucous crowd from street outside (I am on 5th floor and the way windows set back from edge of building and no balcony means I hadn't actually realised there was a street down there, I thought it was an enclosed yard or something, but I now infer the presence of a street) which seems a bit odd - has some sporting event or the like just finished? It seems an odd time for so many people to suddenly be leaving a bar or whatever. Not a problem, just curious.

A few car horns going too. Best guess is something sport-related. Presumably involving a local/national team, but not taking place here given the time.