Santa Elena, Saturday

Sat 4th 1910 Feels much later than this. Got back to hostel about 5ish but had (cold - not through choice, but tried to make a virtue of a necessity) shower, washed bulk of mud off trousers and shoes in the shower and then did three separate "loads" of laundry (trousers, today's top - the blue merino one, today's underwear). It really isn't ideal to have so much damp stuff (clothes, laundry soap, viscose towel - which I used to roll up each set of laundry at least three times and squeeze as much water out of clothes into towel as I could) when I'm packing tomorrow and if I had a private room I probably wouldn't have, but the big practical downside to a dorm is there's nowhere to secretly dry laundry even if you do wash it in shared bathroom, so I wanted to head out tomorrow with a full complement of clean stuff.

Felt groggy getting up but made it to breakfast as usual, slightly awkward but OK chat with Argentinean couple who were going to La Fortuna today at 8am just as I am tomorrow.

Then went out, waited at tourist office for bus to SE cloud forest reserve, got it and spent the day wandering round there. Did encantado trail (which I think I had partly not walked before), caño negro, del bajo and went up the metal observation tower a couple of times. Took it fairly easily but did walk a fair amount. As always vague "got to make sure I don't miss last bus at 4pm" issues but on the whole a quietly enjoyable day, was nice to feel I didn't have to rush round to see everything. Weather like the visit to Monteverde and not like first time at SE, probably a good thing, cloudy and mildly damp (but fine with fleece, didn't get waterproofs out) - not so good for views from caño negro lookout point or the tower, but quite cool to see clouds rolling across and I did also get to see Arenal volcano albeit with some clouds today on second visit to tower (within 45 mins of park closing at 4, I think) - I was kind of lucky to get good weather on first visit, even if today's weather felt more "cloud foresty" .

Went to Raulito's for last time when got back into town then came back here. Will be vaguely sad to leave SE, which is perhaps surprising. Mildly edgy re La Fortuna, both the hostel/dorm business and it being even more touristy and perhaps expensive than here, but we'll see. Play it by ear and if there's nothing astounding to do maybe move on relatively quickly.

Haven't packed yet and although it's not like I have tons of stuff, given the damp clothes I may have to pack tomorrow morning, which isn't ideal as I already need to be up earlyish to get breakfast at 7 so I'm not too pushed for the 8am pickup.

I paid in USD at the park and (copying someone else I overheard, there or elsewhere? not sure) asked if they had change in USD, which they did. Probably worth *asking* this when price is in USD and paying in USD, worst they can say is no.

1936 FFS, just realised I washed a clean set of uw and had to do the dirty set.

Guide last night had 16-17 years of experience BTW. And we also saw (no photo; it was a naked eye spot) a big carnivorous cricket with a horn a bit like a rhino, and its proper name may include the word rhino but not sure.

FWIW I've used up a 15ml "sample size" tube of toothpaste since the trip started. I have another such tube with me and can obviously buy more here, but on the offchance I ever want to know how much toothpaste I use, here's a data point.

2124 Cleaned teeth so practically ready for bed in that sense. Been trying to pack, just had moderately sized chunky spider appear in middle of floor out of nowhere. I'm probably just going to let it be, I don't fancy trying to catch it under a cup from kitchen or whatever. Nothing like the one saw that night I was talking with Andy though.

2133 Bed. Not packed but stuff is (except all the damp stuff) kind of ready for packing so fingers crossed shouldn't be too bad in the morning. I am vaguely tired (lot of walking today, plus was up early-ish) so with luck will go to sleep fairly early and it won't be too awful getting up at 6:50, which if (I shouldn't) I don't let myself snooze will give me time to assess how dry things are, decide if I can wear the slightly damp stuff etc and still be out for breakfast ASAP.