Friday 12 January 2024

London-Bogota, flight and arrival

Thu 11th 2115 New file, just tried to send blog so far but no wifi and not faffing hooking up to O6 wifi.

2125 OK, so I did faff and it just won't go via hotspot to O6. Bit irritating but not end of world.

Looks like internet is not working at least via hotspot, nothing to do with mail client. Giving up now, not a big deal.

2215 Announcement saying we will land 0230 Bogota time. Bit of a pisser if we do get in early but I guess hanging around at the airport is slightly more comfortable than being on the plane. (I can't move until daylight and also until TM starts running.)

Watching "The Mask" in desperation. Guy in front has reclined his seat and as far as I can tell the screen doesn't pivot, so the viewing angle is a bit crap.

Topping up O6 from powerbank, my short USB cable is mega stiff (this may or may not indicate quality) and it is really poorly suited to eg charging in my pocket. So first minor problem with the current travel gear.

2246 If I just heard the barely audible announcement correctly, food and drink is a paid option. If so, I'm not paying. First long haul flight I think I've been on without basic food/drink included, and frankly it's not as if it's a massively cheap flight. I'm not going to say I won't fly with Avianca again, because it *is* direct flight from London, but with this and the non-tiltable screen I'm just getting a bit of a shit feeling.

Just been to bog and the toilet paper seemed to be some weird damp cloth dispenser. Meh.

OK, it looks like there might be free food, just based on some staff wheeling a cart past. Fuck knows.

2339 Had food, I picked beef (over pasta) but sadly it was in some kind of sauce. Disappointing but not critical (always assume won't be able to eat) and it did come with some kind of seemingly undressed salami-rice (?) salad and a bread roll and butter and a fairly nice little piece of cake. Got a glass of white wine too, I didn't ask but don't think beer was an option.

I can't really complain at this; shame I couldn't eat the main part but not really their fault.

I don't know exactly why but I'm obviously in a mildly bad mood. Maybe even the possibly early arrival doesn't help - while there's legroom and (I suspect) purchasable coffee at the airport, it just means more time hanging around. No idea if I am going to manage to sleep but I guess I probably will somewhat.

The selection of films isn't small but very little appeals to me even in a "kill time on flight" way, hence watching The Mask (I'm 30m from end and it is OK but vaguely "ffs" ). Don't think I've seen it before, though I remember it coming out.

While we were on tarmac woman in row behind was talking to some guy and she is spending a month in Colombia (less than me) and she seemed to speak Spanish (but I kind of do too) and yet I was somehow jealous of her. Meh meh meh.

Right now I just feel, well it's tempting to say old and left out, but that wouldn't really be right. It's not like my age feels massively relevant. I haven't even arrived yet so hardly left out. I guess it's just one of those little emotional holes or something, right now it just feels super unlikely I'm going to enjoy the trip, relax, do anything fun or chat with anyone. But I also intellectually know that this is just me feeling unexpectedly (no major obvious cause) down.

They just turned cabin lights off. I will mostly ignore that and keep watching etc and if I fall asleep I fall asleep. I know from experience I might feel zonked but it's not like a (not doing the calculations) 36h awake period is going to kill me, and I'm deliberately (and correctly, I think) avoiding pressuring myself with lots of "must do" stuff as soon as I land. And I am open to staying an extra night or two in Bogota if it takes the pressure off to sort stuff out. As long as I'm not blatantly slacking off constantly and doing nothing, doing anything (eg wandering to bus terminal or buying a SIM or sitting on a bus to some currently undetermined town between Bogota and Cartagena) is "an experience" and a chance for serendipity etc. And although there are a handful of "strong likes" such as a boat trip, there is nothing I absolutely must do so I just need to chill etc etc etc. My current mood after hanging around mildly waiting to leave at home and trogging to the airport and sitting on a plane is not predictive of the success (by my own standards, and in fact by anyone else's really) of the trip.

Incidentally not that I take it that seriously anyway, I am *not* switching to Bogota time and trying to live that now to minimise jet lag (which I think I suffer from but not to a bothersome extent, given my not overly rushed trip) - after all, if I did that i'd be forcing myself to stay away until a few hours before we land. I might as well let my London body clock work in my favour and maybe get me a half decent amount of sleep, even if it's not on Bogota schedule.

I do need to try to adopt a positive attitude, especially in the hostel, and also during the day and even now. But to give myself credit, it's not like I'm flying off the deep end now - I just do feel a bit quietly down and I'm recognising that but not believing it means anything more.

0001 My entertainment unit seems to have glitched out, video stopped and I paused it and restarted it and now I'm getting no sound. Headphones work fine on my phone. This is a bit of a pisser as I've now seen two third off a meh-but-not-utterly-awful film. Perhaps I will get a chance to watch it on the return flight. I was at about 1h20 in to this version, Jim Carrey was just about to escape from jail with the help of his dog.

If I can't get this back on I'll just start listening to some music on phone. I did top O6 up and K1 battery is probably better, so I will use K1.

OK, got sound back somehow.

0024 Finished. The "sidekick" cop (Doyle??) reminded me of Ray Gardner from the Blackcurrant Tango ad, but credits suggest it's not (not too surprisingly - but having seen an award-prefixed version of the BT ad, I think that is the actor's actual name not just in the ad)

Will have tablet and listen to music on phone now.

0610 Slept badly but not terribly. Some turbulence but of the "bumpy road" not "sink like a stone" kind so not too big a deal. Just had ghasty piss and tiny leg stretch in open area by bog, looks like breakfast might be being served.

Vague womb feeling of not wanting to arrive/wake up but I feel a bit more alert after getting up. While not exactly excited to arrive and deal with everything, I don't feel too worried.

0638 Omlette, fruit salad, roll with butter, coffee with powdered cream and a water. Not too bad.

Vague "what am I going to do all day?" feeling, mainly about today (both pre and post check in - I can't/shouldn't go straight to bed etc) but I'm sure I'll manage to fill the time somehow.

I had quick look at guide book and map and am probably clued up, though it says I need to be tarjeta tullave from uniformed guys and I wonder how top up works...

0916 (London)/0416 (Bogota) At Juan Valdez landside, paid 9.5k on credit card for large coffee, not terrible. Saw sign at customs (which was an absolute formality - no forms, not at immigration either btw - "where are you coming from?" "London" "pass through" ) about asking for factura electronica to reclaim 19% VAT when you leave. I think there's a QR code to scan on the receipt but not sure. I may or may not do this, 19% isn't nothing but I suspect a lot of my purchases will be cash and they may not want (legality aside) to give me one, and it may be the claim process is an utter faff or it requires so app, but I figured I'd at least ask here as it was a chance to experiment.

We did land about an hour earlier. Bit of a queue at immigration but no problem, I spoke Spanish with agent which was something. Had half hour call with Mum using free 30 mins wifi before getting this coffee. Receipt shows free wifi here with a code but I can't even see their network name, not a huge deal.

Feels vaguely like I ought to be pushing on (esp w early arrival) but that is counterproductive, I need to wait for daylight/bus to start running and even then am in no rush due to check in time (tho do hope to drop bag) plus within reason it is easy/safe to hang around at airport whereas once in town I have to payu to be in a cafe when not walking streets. Prob won't stick here all day but will try not to rush off before 6am.

Feeling OK, not amazing but OK. Seeing all the flights here makes me feel the continent is open to me. I probably *am* heading towards Panama but we will see. Also very much need not to treat colombia as "somewhere to hustle through to get to Panama asap" - that would be a waste of my time, not taking advantage.

0516 Left JV to drink some water a few metres away (but not hogging table). I think plan is to drink this water, top up from refill near toilets I saw earlier (I think tap water is potable here, but presumably this is fine anyway), then maybe have another JV coffee before getting bus. Still dark out.

I am feeling a vague temptation to rush off but trying to hold it back. I am also feeling - maybe it was the coffee or the sitting in there with it or just "not having any pressing deadline" - kind of intermittently happy, a sort of "wow, I am actually in Colombia" feeling, with the odd burst of that vague squiggly happiness coming through.

Definitely feeling I need to not absolutely rush through Colombia, the trip may be >50% Panama if it goes roughly to plan but it could well be 30-40% Colombia even then. I need to find some nice bus hops up towards the north coast (Barranquilla or Santa Marta would be fine, albeit retracing steps, as I know I can bus it from there to Cartagena easily).

Also thinking earlier that since the actual travel travel (bus, plane, whatever) is disruptive (and I am repeating myself here of course) I really do need to not be constantly on the move. Having a secure base (for my body and for my bag) is a big comfort boost.

0528 Got on free wifi on K1, managed to send pre-flight blog. Still dark out, easy to forget - reasonably busy here. Pleasing symmetry going to JV as was there killing time leaving in 2020.

Feeling a smidge edgy but not too bad. No need to rush! I hope I don't have problems with TM (buying and topping up a card) but should be fine and if I do there is plenty of time to faff and worst case i can get a taxi.

I think despite liking cash, I will probably prefer to pay by card when I can, so as to minimise the hassles of withdrawal and cash machine fees. But I will almost certainly be paying quite a bit with cash too.

I think within 4-5 days I want to have sketched out a rough itinerary for first few weeks and be looking at making a booking for a boat to Panama, be it motor or sail, if I am going to do this. But otherwise don't need to get too worked up.

Oh, recording of woman doing English language covers of various songs playing at JV, the "Forever Young" (Alphaville) cover made me smile.

I could call Mum again - I am slightly bored, though it is sort of cool looking around and except for writing this I am trying not to stare at phone - but I need to try not to overdo contact with home, it is "bad enough" from an immersion POV to be calling most days.

I topped up O6 from powerbank at JV, holding my hand over the pair on table. The over-stiff cable combined with the slightly loose (it is fine when stationary on a desk, but I suspect the case gets in the way a bit) makes it hard to charge in pocket or bag, which is mildly annoying but not a killer - I don't routinely expect to be charging from powerbank out and about, it's just this is a long day.

0657 Nearly finished second coffee. Bit jittery, prob caffeine but also (not that I'm shitting myself) nerves about venturing into the unknown from this place of safety. Definite "I need to get a move on" urges which are utterly ridiculous given timescales. I am probably going to drink some water after I leave the table here, then go for piss and refill bottles (piss a bit yellow earlier), and then head out. Probably all be fine.

It is obviously daylight out, very grey light but that's fine, I half expected this and in a way it's nice not to be straight into broiling temps, I can wear my fleece to spread valuables around over more pockets.

Walking up stairs to the departure area when I exited arrivals I did feel slightly winded, which I guess is the altitude. I am not likely to get to acclimatise massively on this trip but we'll see.

Home-made zips on pockets not as "smooth" (due to alignment etc I guess) as prefab ones would be, but as long as I don't force them and take my time I think they'll be OK. Definitely would not want pockets with no zips or other fastenings, on general tourist pickpocket concerns (not specific to Bogota or Colombia).

0932 In room at hostel! I think I've been shortchanged about 2k - should be 122400, I handed over 150000 - they said surcharge, I think 5%, for card so I paid cash, also confirmed in rather bad Spanish that my card has not been charged for first night - and got 26k notes and 1500 coins back - oh no, my last minute mental arithmetic rounded wrong and I am shortchanged but only by 100. Anyway, I wasn't going to make a fuss as they have let me in early.

Room is small but clean, right behind reception. There is free coffee. Also a kitchen (which I don't intend to use - I will probably cook sometimes during trip but not now). And one of those "free, but give a tip" walking tour type things advertised behind reception which does Monserrate weekends and Mon and says it takes 3h, I just *may* book for this.

But I saw Monserrate from TM and it looks both impressive and damned high! Also distinct "I remember that church thing at top and visiting it and looking over Bogota" (I think it was right near end of a trip, prob 2010)

I was yawning a bit at airport - I finally left about 810 - which is odd given it isn't that late body clock time and I did sleep a bit on plane. I was also micro-sleeping on TM, I do tend to do this sometimes on public transport but not great.

Managed to find Tullave (which I only realised in queue is tu-llave not tull-ave, makes more sense now) kiosk and there was a helpful assistance type woman who probably spoke English but I spoke to her twice in Spanish. Paid 7k for card+13k for credit (cash only) (to a cashier in a booth, not assistance type woman who was standing nearby), got instructions from assistance woman (touch in only on first bus - it is actually kind of obvious because of how the TM stations are segregated once you see them), tried to find K86, asked random old woman, went back and asked assistance woman at kiosk for a second time and found it no trouble. Apart from micro-sleeping it was all fine, easy to change at Portal El Dorado.

Everything is oddly half familiar. IIRC I last visited central Bogota in 2010 but maybe I did use the TM.

I took the tunnel to Las Aguas from Universidades as it seemed a shorter walk to hostel, and it also clued me in on which was was north (as going for U to LA I knew was heading south). I walked without pulling phone out. It felt a little bit sketchy, a few people hanging around although no shortage of normal people - just felt a *little* quiet and a little sketchy. Some of the bars/landmarks looked vaguely familiar.

I tried to walk confidently and hope I was going in right direction, despite relatively small and I hope inconspicuous pack and I hope not looking like a lost tourist even if I probably looked like a tourist, I did feel a bit vulnerable, but no one really tried to hassle me. Very few street signs, although there sort of were ('Av n-KR m') which I thought I understood but wasn't confident about.

I am not sitting on the bed, I am standing to write this, as I fear if I touch the bed I will want to sleep. I am vaguely tempted to have a shower but also a bit reluctant. I might at least clean teeth and shave.

I think I might then go out into lobby type bit and get some free coffee, then head out for a walk (checking map first) and see if I can spot somewhere for lunch-ish and visit some mobile shops to at least aks about prices.

The *apparent* sketchiness of the area disturbs me slightly but I suspect it's mostly fresh-off-the-boat nerves, and I don't feel the particular street the hostel - the hostel is very nice and clean really, btw - is on is extra-sketchy.

It is sunny now and moderately warm. I may or may not wear the fleece out. I feel some need to rush to shower and head out (or at least get some free coffee) but as I keep telling myself, there is absolutely no need to rush.

I am going to send this now and continue in another blog entry, which - both on principle and as I won't have the K1 with me while out and about - will probably be written up later tonight.

I do not want to get mugged but (touch wood) it is not likely, and at least now I've got here to drop my bag off the damage would be limited somewhat.

Also need to remind myself while this is probably my third trip to Colombia, I am nowhere near having seen the country - I've visited Bogota, Medellin and a few towns on the north coast and that's it, and I've probably spent about six weeks in total in the entire country over the last 13ish years. (I do wonder if there's a visit I am forgetting, but I suspect not.) So "third visit" doesn't mean much and I need to keep reminding myself.

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