Tuesday 23 January 2024

Tunja-San Gil

Mon 22nd 1416 At some stop on bus. I did get off (taking my bag) for a piss. I am getting a vague impression this is actually a full on meal stop, although I only know this because there's a sort of interesting oldish woamn discussing this with herself (?). I did ask about buying some kind of bread snacks but they were like 14k and I wasn't desperate and the guy said he had nothing smaller. I didn't plan on eating until this afternoon/evening anyway, and I have fruit/nuts from home in case of dire need.

A few other people are getting back on anyway, not a huge deal.

There was no one at the Autoboy desk when I got to terminal but the guy at the next booth asked me "San Gil?" and I paid 50k for what turned out to be a seat on a more or less "cama" bus (though it's described as superconfort). The roads are not bad but extremely windy and progress feels very slow.

I woke up about 0530 with a weird

1821 OK, got interrupted by that oldish woman starting to talk to me. More on that later.

On - very very noisy, traffic and plenty of motorbikes in with it - terrace of new hostel. Everything is more or less OK. I am a bit discombobulated though, things are fine but I am trying to avoid forming opinions until tomorrow.

The walk from the San Gil long distance terminal to hostel was exciting. I didn't feel in danger of being robbed, but it is traffic central and cars and bikes are continually peeling off into the dozens of motor-related businesses along the way. IIRC I got off the bus about 1630 but I am far from confident.

After a false start because it has no name shown just number got into rather empty seeming hostel OK. The pool is about twice the size of my bathtub at home. :-) The guy - Nicolas - who checked me in seemed nice enough and surprisingly reluctant to take my money, I had to ask to pay before he took me off on a mini tour. Rather hopefully I felt, he pointed out a covered over hot tub which you have to book in advance, minimum four hours and you have to buy a drink from the bar. (I may visit it in a bit, though the cheapest beer is a Club Colombia at an astouding 6k. There are signs forbidding bringing alcohol in, not that I'm too fussed.)

I got a lower bunk, there are no lockers which makes me vaguely edgy but semi-normal and prob OK. There does indeed appear to be about one bathroom (inc toilet) for the entire hostel. I think there might be half a dozen guests though, a woman who was half sleeping on bunk in my dorm at 1830ish when I got back from my foray out and made it hard for me to decant part of my new 5l water into a bottle as I was doing it by phone torch, and I heard a handful of I think Germans come in together as I was in kitchen and there was also a Colombian guy who may or may not be a guest in kitchen (not stressful but we scarcely spoke).

Anyway, after hasty toilet visit and locking passport and K1 in bag in at-that-time empty dorm, I dashed out with a view to getting food before dark.

Frankly the area just over the bridge feels *slightly* seedy and the town feels quite gritty, not dangerous as such but who knows. OTOH some of the scenery on the way in on bus was amazing and the Fonce (sp) river looks like. I am trying to avoid making snap judgements.

I had seen an Ara on the walk in and after walking round the busyish area over bridge and not fancying any restaurants or the hassle of checking out prices or avoiding sauce or worrying about getting back after dark I darted over another bridge and despite the (seemingly polite for all that) locals' apparent talent for blocking the aisles, I got a loaf of bread and some mortadela and a 5l bottle of water and some lime crisps and came back to hostel. As mentioned struggled to decant some water into a 1l bottle I'd brough with me and may have to go back for more later. I brought K1 and power bank and cable and am topping up O6 on table on deserted but traffictastic balcony. (Two guests just came out, I offered to move but think it's fine. Think they are German, at least German speaking, and about to play cards.)

I ate all the smallish (but cheap) pack of mortadela and about 2/3 of the bread and have shoved remaining bread and lime crisps in a cupboard Nicolas (who happened to be in kitchen) showed me. I almost don't want or need them now so if someone does nick them not massively fussed, though would be peeved.

So I think that's mostly it except for this morning and the bus.

It looks like there is a socket by my bed, though halfway along not more conveniently at head.

As I was saying earlier, I woke up about 0530 from a weird unpleasant dream with a bout of pseudo-homesickness (but not quite), but leaped out of bed and dispelled it. I woke up before 0830 alarm and snoozed in bed til 9.

Had fairly big dump at this point which was vaguely reassuring given pizza and a day on the bus. (The bus looked like it had a toilet at back but I am far from convinced it worked. I never tried it.)

Packed everything up, think I left about 10. Dog was there but I called out and no one else seemed to be.

Walked over to av universitaria and waited ages for a bus to terminal, at least had approx right change this time as knew fare.

Hanging around nervously waiting for bus as it was late and there are no announcements and when the bus did come up on screen (which mostly shows bloody videos about the terminal instead of actual info) it showed at gate 1, even though I'd been told when buying and when speaking to local guy hanging around who said he was on it too that it would be gate 6, so I dashed down to 1 and back only to find it there at 6 after all.

Bus as I say cama/semi-cama but maybe something about the low passenger count or a slight sprawly quality made it seem a smidge less luxurious. Was at-seat entertainment (with tilting screens - take note, Avianca!) though no one including me seemed to use it.

Anyway that woman was apparently on phone and I was earwigging on her as well pulled out. Oh, I got to terminal 11, notional departure 1130 and more like 1150 when we left. Didn't get worked up but still. She was repeating herself a bit but talking about her daughter having a row with her husband but how good he was and it was just when he had 7 relatives visiting she didn't ought to have to cook for all of them. And saying how nice it was in Tunja with no thieves.

I kept drowsing on the bus. I prob unnec put seatbelt on and my bag did fit above (except not above my seat, where there was hardly any depth) but I put it above that woman for a bit then realising bus wasn't going to fill I got up and put it on seat next to me where I could keep an eye on it.

So at the rest stop - which doubtless helped drag trip out, I do wonder if minibus would have done that, I do also wonder if minibus would have been generally faster but who knows and maybe less comfortable and couldn't be helped (best to just go with it when turning up and that guy "stole" my business from Autoboy) - the woman didn't want to eat and she started talking to me and offered me crackers (which I declined - at that point I wish I'd bought the 14k cake things as could have shared them round, but obviously no way to know at the time) and I could mostly understand her and it was sort of cool and a tiny bit stressful.

I maybe misunderstood or maybe she is a bit delusional or both. She said she has an enormous six floor house in Bogota - and she has seven sewing machines - and then later on when she mentioned Barichara she said her daughter has a big house there (I may be misremembering the details). And she invited me to stay if I was in Bogota and suggested she give me her sister's number to stay with here in Barichara. And she (this bit I do kind of believe) she was going to visit family in Bucaramanga. A youngish guy sitting in front of us joined in after a bit and I think he was keen to practice his English, so we spoke a bit in English. To be clear, they were both very nice and I was grateful for the chat in either language, I just found some of the stuff the woman was saying a bit strange.

I sort of half drifted out of the conversation (which had continued after we were going) but was vaguely on the fringes when suddenly the ceiling vent over my head (a big long pseudo-rectangular thing with a dust filter in) came loose and smacked me on top of my head. Luckily I was wearing my cap so it didn't do any major harm. My companions made a bit of a fuss and some guy came along and fixed it back up while we were going, although I moved into the window seat just to be safe. I don't think anyone apologised but not a huge deal, I asked the woman to look at my head and she said it was red from the impact but not cut or anything.

I made a point of saying goodbye to both of them when I got off, maybe awkwardly but felt like right thing to do.

Is that about it? I think it kind of is. I feel a bit bad occupying this scarce space out here on the balcony - more to the point if I disappear to use toilet or to faff topping up my nearly empty water bottle I may lose my seat. OTOH there are seats inside and it's not so super-duper luxurious out here I am mega fussed.

I feel a bit sweaty, it is almost certainly warmer here and may be a bit close in dorm, but will be OK and acclimatisation and all that. I haven't had a shower yet, I suppose I could maybe do that now anyway.

I am not so sure about getting a beer, but we'll see.

I have no idea what I am supposed to do here in SG - I wonder if half the attraction is getting out into the surrounding countryside and by not "rushing" I may kind of waste tomorrow just puttering round town, but it's fine. Guy on bus said there's a nice park type thing with a cable car a short bus ride out of town. Various extreme-ish activities advertised in hostel too, though TBH not sure I have much interest in these.

I am not looking into the boat tonight, I expect to feel slightly less discombobulated tomorrow. I do want to do it but I'm *almost* feeling as though if it is booked up I am going to be disappointed but not absolutely gutted. But I do want to do it, at least enough to risk a USD60ish deposit. But as I say, I am not looking at it now, against all rationality I actually do feel tired as I write this, while not exactly "hard work" today has been the usual peculiar travel day stressful in its way and it doesn't feel like the right circumstances to be making decisions.

I'm gonna cling on here with my tiny bit of water a bit longer and read on phone. I probably will have a shower in near future though.

I should say the hostel appears to be clean and well-maintained and quite large, although probably not having huge numbers of rooms and distinctly lacking in shared bathrooms.

1904 Against all probability the hot tub is being uncovered and turned on.

Oh, and I did learn the Colombian word for loan shark today from the guy on the bus, but I've half-forgotten it - it was gsomething repeated, something like gito-gito, but not that.

1930 Do feel vaguely awkward here but it's also kind of OK. I suspect my chances of getting into a quiet chat during my stay here are slim, but OTOH this is at least vaguely lively and there is no reason I should know anyone here after all.

I have run out of water thanks to only half topping it up in darkness of dorm. A beer is vaguely tempting but even putting price aside, I'm not too clear I'd have anywhere to drink it out here if I went and got one.

I can see myself moving to shower and early bed but it is a smidge early. Actually you know I might go get a beer, I am festooned with power banks and phones and water bottles but it's fine. And maybe tomorrow I will bring some soft drink in and stick it in fridge and indulge in that in the evening without paying hostel beer prices. Hmm.

Assuming they don't book up I am reasonably confident the boat trip can be sorted tomorrow. I do have a vague presentiment I am going to struggle to see whatever the best of SG and environs is, but this may just be the long day and strange surroundings talking.

1937 OK, got a beer. The guy insisted on putting it on my tab, but probably be OK.

It's too small but I must admit it is going down a treat. And looking up there is a near full moon through the clouds.

2001 Beer long finished. FWIW and completely unsurprisingly, the rather stuffy bar down on the street level (which may be open to public and has windows through which the vaguely disco lights could be seen) was empty, including of staff, and Nicolas - whose ability or desire to speak English seems to fluctuate - came down after me to serve me.

2013 OK. Popped back to dorm, presumed (didn't look this time) woman lying on bed listening to something in French (on speaker, but she's in there on her own and it's early). Neither of us spoke but I hoiked a few things out of bag, put power bank to charge on bed and (taking it out into hallway to do it) topped up my litre bottle which I have with me now. Cold would be nice but it's not on the board on the timescales of tonight.

I am feeling a bit more settled. The Germans have gone in and another group has gone into the hot tub. I also seem to see Nicolas and another guy carrying plates of food downstairs. Maybe this place really does have more business than I expected.

The pool is a tiny shame - I do "need" to swim a bit to keep in practice - but I didn't expect much (a dozen things could have prevented me using it anyway, from vague shame to sunburn concerns to it just being super busy all the time) and I didn't pay more for it etc etc.

I still have a vague feeling I am not going to get full value out of my time here and - definitely in part caused by the boat trip and splitting time between here and Panama - I am feeling a bit pushed and reluctant (but I may argue with myself) to extend my stay if "necessary" . Still, notwithstanding vague BNM feelings and residuals of the day's stresses (none of them horrific, of course) and concerns about this "tab" business, I do feel relatively OK and I suspect a night's sleep without much pressure to get up (though I will aim for 9ish, bearing in mind I could well be in bed by 10 or earlier) will improve matters further.

I think I might go down and get another beer, then I will have water to drink and shower etc after that then bed. Tomorrow night I will probably try to provide myself with a nice big bottle of something cold and non-alcoholic.

2021 OK, got second beer. The slightly younger and thinner Colombian guy I "met" in kichen earlier was at the bar and served me. A Colombian-looking family eating in the corner of otherwise deserted bar.

The beer is going down well and tastes OK. I think it could be a smidge cooler TBH. But let's not cavil. Considering the vague apprehension I've felt at various points during the day, to be sitting here with a beer in the warm evening is something, even if I do have to close my eyes and squint to make it seem perfect. :-)

I do wonder if CC tastes better than Aguila or whatever. It may do, but I suspect in part I am appreciating a beer tonight more with feeling relatively hot and not having had one for a few days.

As I suspected, a quick poke at r2r suggests Barichara is a 40 min bus ride away. So if, as seems likely, I do go there next, it is not an epic journey.

2049 Finished beer. Hot tub shut off again. Nicolas (I think) swept round a bit. I am the only one out here. I don't think this is an issue, but given I want/need to have a shower I will probably hang on for another 5-10 mins then get some clean clothes and my (rather ratty) bathroom bag (I really do need to sort something better out for a subsequent trip, maybe as I intended this time some kind of zip mesh bag - the more "leaky" items like soap and shaving oil can always go in small plastic bags inside) and see if bathroom is free.

I perhaps "ought" to be reading guide book for SG tonight but I'm not. Contrary to certain residual impulses I am *not* in a rush, there's no harm in puttering round tomorrow and I want to have a quiet-ish night with no "gotta get up and do X" stress tomorrow morning.

I did drape mildly damp uw from washing in Tunja on end of my bunk when I got here, BTW.

2054 OK, I may move towards shower/bed in a minute. Given don't want to be making disturbance in dorm will send this now.

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