Buenos Aires, Monday

1458 At Clasico Cafe Bar in Bolivar. While had no real plans beyond walking round a bit, been wandering getting slightly desperate for lunch and rejecting everywhere. Food not too pricey here (getting bife de chorizo and chips)p, also getting litre bottle of Quilmes at 38. Feeling a bit tight as want to avoid withdrawing more cash but I think in reality the hotel will change USD for me at half-decent rate of USD1 to ARS9.5 (not sure street guys will do an amount like USD10 or 20) and so a) I'm fine b) I'm not spending an inordinate amount. If push really comes to shove I can withdraw some more cash.

Walked nearly an hour before finding net cafe despite guide book saying there's one every couple of blocks. They only had IE and also I had to get them to stop their porn blocker blocking Air Europa's website (!?). Either because of something shity about the filtering or IE or because Air Europa's site sucks I wasn't able to check in online, website gave usual super unhelpful errors. However, the checkin process starts by saying you have to go to checkin desk for 'security' reasons (iirc) even if you check in online, so I've printed the expedia confirmation and in reality I am not worse off for not having checked in since I would have to go to desk anyway.

Woke up 10-11ish feeling OKish if bit sort of pleasantly tired, think left hotel about 12. Not great on last day but as I say I don't really have plans, will probably just wander down to that park in San Telmo after.

Beer is welcome, it's pleasantly warm not boiling but been walking round more or less continuously since 12 so refreshment good.

1526 Cure "Yesterday I felt so old..." playing v quietly. Heard "Si No Te Hubieras Ido" playing from shop as looking for net cafe earlier, raised a smile.

1528 Phil Collins, "You got a piece of me" (that song about televangelists) playing. Not heard this in years. Oh, and Alan Parsons Project "Eye In The Sky" played in the (bit shit, v busy, poor service) net cafe.

(It's radio, not CD, DJ just said song was "Jesus He Knows Me".)

1551 That was pretty good. Finishing beer up then go. Will go round Parque Lezama, maybe have beer nearby then go back to hotel. Perhaps depending on finances and stomach pop out for food later but not going out tonight; it's Monday and I need to be up about 7am to get to Terminal Madero for 8 (it's not far but not sure about getting taxi; I may walk it in daylight actually). Not *too* bad an early start but given I don't expect to find any life (I always struggle anyway in BA, sooner or later will crack it) on a Monday night and given this is *the* flight I really really don't want to miss definitely not chancing anything.

1607 Cool. Bill 105, made it 115 with tip, I asked and they take dollars at ARS10, so I paid USD10 and ARS15, using up a few coins too. This is better than hotel rate of 9.5 and leaves me my ARS100 note (plus I think about 80ish in misc notes) for bus. Not to say I won't need to change something else and I now have nothing smaller than a USD20 so need to be careful but still.

Just counted up and I think I have ARS205 including my 100 note left. Bus to airport is probably 100 but if I don't walk I need a cheapish (it's maybe a kilometre) taxi there. I really don't want to have to change a USD20 if I can help it whatever the rate, as I will get more more cash than I need for the time left and I don't want to be sitting on a lot of ARS when it might be two or three years at least before I come back to Argentina (I hope to be back in Latin America within three, but I imagine northern South America, Central America and Mexico - though Chile always tempting - would be most likely destinations, so unless flight prices encourage a stopover in BA it could really be five years plus before I return to Argentina - but life is strange and who knows what will happen?) and inflation is bad enough even now that people want USD. It's OK. I could *maybe* ask the hotel to change USD20 for USD10+some ARS, I dunno. Let's not get too hung up on this. Worst case we're looking at burning USD20 which is not a fortune (and though it has long term value, in the short term it's a kind of sunk cost since I already withdrew it and will just sit on it back home instead of converting it back to GBP.)

1617 Finished beer, let's go.

(Incidentally, to put the exchange rates into perspective, unless I got confused the official rate is ARS8 to the pound; I think that is therefore what I'd get withdrawing from a UK account at a cash machine ignoring the punitive fees. A pound is about USD1.6. Yet the hotel is offering ARS9.5 to the dollar, that restaurant 10 and in larger-but-still-modest quantities I think - based on some website - the street money changers are maybe offering 11ish.)

1726 Walked round Parque Lezama, then wandered hoping to find beer in late-afternoon sun, but the square just north wanted like 59 for a litre and some shitty little bar on a street which happened to be on the right corner to have sun outside wanted 40 for an artesanal half litre. Needed piss and sun going so at some bar with a Mafalda model sat on bench outside (I remember seeing this in Jan, but didn't drink here) corner Chile and Defensa getting a litre for 40, I hope. No sun - wrong corner and too low now really for sun even on 'right' corner - but weather still pleasant (not wearing jacket today, just T shirt) though slight breeze is just a smidge cooler than I could wish.

This is opposite El Gol de San Telmo and the adjacent places, all of which seem shut (no huge loss really).

1748 Were some (old) men playing chess in Parque Lezama. That and the sun and doubtless also my mental state brought "McArthur Park" into my head (yes, yes, that's checkers). I also have Sydney Meat's (sp) "We're not bothered, we're down the pub" in my head now for some reason. :-)

1826 I had two people ask me for directions today. Helps [just taken photo of people with Mafalda] my delusion I don't look too much like a tourist.

Saying to myself a) modulo job shit be good to be back home where I have friends and family b) if I can get even a half decent contract I need to regard that as part of my lifestyle where I take time out to travel every couple of years, not as a horrific phase c) I now kind of have a plan for my future (life permitting, all sorts of good or bad things could happen of course) and I will be working with a goal in mind.

Just about finished this beer, will pay up then back to hotel. Feeling fairly good, especially considering this is end of trip. Not been a bad day, the last day in Bogota was cool what with the street music, and being back home won't be bad either.

1859 Back at hotel. Incidentally when was in Parque Lezama did remember being bit nervous when there in Jan, today both because been there before and because I feel BA is generally much safer than places been recently wasn't worried at all.

Only a very slight voice at back of mind suggests leaving here before tomorrow morning. Frankly it's been a fairly good day, local currency finances are tight and I don't want to loosen them, I have lots I can occupy myself with in hotel room and why ruin everything with a shitty beer locally even if I knew somewhere nice local to go, which I don't?

2122 At Breoghan's (sp, prob right, where I came in Jan). Didn't have fucking clue when engaged barman in conversation re happy hour. Paid 30 for a pint of Golden Ale, happy hour is 2 for 60 I think, not a clue. (Pricey compared to earlier but feh, it is OK.) He stared heavily at the 100 I paid with, holding it up to light several times. Was nervous as got it from a money changer on Florida about half hour ago. Hotel couldn't change just 10 of my USD20 as had no change. He suggested I try a money changer. I dithered but did as reluctant to spend any of my ARS160 approx on beer etc when not sure about exact cost tomorrow for bus to airport. Went on Florida, where most of them are. The guy wasn't ultra keen at first but pretty promptly (a few seconds later, as I was saying 'OK, thanks' (in Spanish)) said he'd do it for ARS10 to USD1 (implying as I thought street rate for more is higher) and since that's better than hotel would have done anyway I agreed. (I have no objection to getting worse rate for small deal, that's business, still worth doing.) He took me to some nearby newspaper kiosk in street where chap showed me into back (just narrow bit, there was street on both sides) and did the exchange, ie gave me ARS100 and USD10 back. I looked at the bills and both they looked OK AFAICT so was bit taken aback when barman really scrutinised that 100; I made sure paid with that not the one I already had as didn't want to risk a fake causing me problems tomorrow when no time to rectify by going to cash machine.

Wish I could have understood what barman said as I quizzed him re happy hour, beyond fact it stops at 10 am stumpted. Maybe I will get secnd beer for 30 but no idea. I understood maybe 50% but that wasn't enough.

Not great here but I was walking down this way and came across it and it seemed fitting. Was vaguely heading for places went this afternoon; toyed with those bars on Reconquista but as per earlier have no great memories of them at best of times.

Why am I out when said not? In part perhaps cos am a bit weak, in part cos Skyped parents and I've had a letter from HMRC re my 2011-12 tax return. Nothing ultra serious but fortunately I was able to get the relevant documents off my online backup (which is pretty cool/handy, I guess, kudos to CrashPlan) and it appears my accountants have fucked up, though who knows how it will turn out. (This way I don't have it hanging over me to deal with back in UK, or at least I will be dealing with my accountants response and it will be further along.) Anyway, I emailed them and we'll see what they say, but the fact that my last night of the holiday would have been 'oh yes, I remember, I had to look into that HMRC letter' made me think fuck it I would come out. Two pints won't be a killer, only sixish in total today and most importantly been a few hours since last drink. Don't think total weekly consumption too bad and in any case would be stupid to suddenly get hung up on that tonight of all nights.

I washed a single shirt and set of underwear before coming out and left laptop on bed uploading photos (tho probably die after a few due to network glitch, postr not ultra reliable in face of even slightly dodgy networks).

Pretty dead here but it's OK, not seeking chat tonight and it's kind of fitting as it was like this when I was here in Jan, probably was midweek then too (it's in blog of course).

Could regard this as waste but not really, if it is 60 for two tonight that gives me 200ish total and probably have 70-90 left to buy some food at airport with if I want.

I am sat at the exact same table I was at in Jan, BTW.

Will say now that - tho I think I already said was same hotel as in Jan - I am at Hotel O'Rei here.

Well behind with my tripadvisor reviews - not obliged of course but I like to do it - need to do Lima hotel and all since, tho have draft reviews on netbook of the two Ecuador hotels. It's OK, I will do them this weekend. Had intended to bash a couple out tonight but since I decided to come out instead not happened. Not a big deal.

Beer is expensive compared to litre of Quilmes at 38 but it is sort of UK bitter-ish (not that I couldn't hold out another two days...) and feh, worth it really for the sense of symmetry and fitness of things and bowing to serendipity.

Obviously the USD10 note I got from money changer('s mate) might be dodgy but probably not. Also fuck it, it's like six or seven quid, which is (obviously) what tonight's extravagance (plus maybe some food at airport) has cost. As a one off cost, chicken feed. As a habit maybe not but feh, it's not as if it's particularly extravagant.

2200 Got second pint before 10 anyway, dunno if it mattered but still. Golden Ale 5.5% first pint, San Telmo Fire IPA (pronounced eepa by barman) 6.6% this. Oh, I think Lavalle is pronounced by locals in Spanish way but with Argentinian ll=sh pronunciation. Still looks French to me but anyway, that's what I heard when getting bus+taxi to hotel other night.

Seeing the Spanish-English exchange poster outside I am reminded I should consider seeking something like that out in London. Pretty sure made this observation in Jan but it had slipped my mind. Would be good for my Spanish and also a social thing.

2206 Fire IPA is OK but does taste a bit 'strong'.

I went to the bar both times but there is a waitress here, she is serving another table now.

2209 Fighting slight tendency to neck "my last beer" and go home so waffle as things occur. Have sometimes felt as if I should write about some minor little thing on blog, and have always had to remind myself a) that just isn't practical b) it's not a case of "blog entry or it didn't happen". This blog is a memory jogger for Future Steve (I don't think even my friends are reading it, that's cool and perhaps even good), it's not that if I have random memories of the trip in the future they are "disproven" or "invalid" if they're not on the blog.

"Jeremy Spoke"

Why do it as a blog if no one is reading it? My friends *might* check in occasionally. I keep anything super personal to other channels but I quite like the idea of drivelling this out to the world at large. Maybe some random bod will stumble on an entry via Google and read more. I hope it's occasionally entertaining. I know I've sometimes found random shit on the web and deeply enjoyed it, in a small way this is my potential return. Ultimately given I am careful to keep anything deeply personal off here (while doubtless revealing some moderately personal stuff) it does no harm to be sending this to a blog instead of say a private "email to myself" folder.

Stones, "Under My Thumb". All music so far been English language.

2222 Queen, "Under Pressure". Saw ad for Guns 'n' Roses South American tour on way over here, incidentally. Also earlier for some symphonic Queen tribute thing.

Not packed yet but a) for all I sometimes regard it as a chore, since I am travelling light even a fairly anal pack takes maybe ten minutes b) even easier tonight as I don't need to bundle wrap any clean clothes, since this is last night before home.

Not exactly looking forward to flight home but in a way it will be super cool to sit on that flight home (well, to Madrid) and just relax and listen to music or whatever. I won't say every single possible wish for the trip happened, but looking back it's been a pretty good time. Just not working alone is super cool. Maybe on flight will bash out a list of the highlights, will resist temptation to do so now. And it will [ooh, Blur, "she needs a little... we all say we want to be alone" ah "End Of The Century"] be nice to be back home with friends and family. I really do have a lot of friends (esp compared with say 10 years ago) and while I'm pretty happy with the social aspect of the trip it does make me appreciate the ease of going for a drink with a friend. (I still haven't cracked "hostel socialisation" but frankly I didn't really try, and also frankly I'd rather meet locals and I have, also was cool to meet Tony, Kirsty (localish) and Colin and that was through bus/bar not hostels.)

David Bowie, "Heroes" (I think: "we can meet them forever and ever" yes, it is "Heroes")

Did wonder about safety of walk home but I think BA is pretty safe and unless the universe feels it needs to load up my semi-irony quota I am not too worried about walk home.

It would obviously bite to miss the flight tomorrow but a) it wouldn't be the end of the world b) no reason to expect it, I am not remotely drunk due to spaced out drinking today. Not like Buenos Aires in 2012 when I came close. :-) And then it was more pressing as I had to be back at work. Now it would suck but it would "just" be seven or eight hundred quid's worth of suckiness. Freedom baby. :-)

Hope London's not too cold but think will be sweet, I missed the winter, BST kicked in yesterday, perfect.

It seems trite to say it but my life is actually pretty good. I wish I was more confident about getting a new contract but especially since I don't absolutely need to earn an amazing rate I am reasonably confident I can get something which will a) pay the bills b) allow me to save a bit of money to replace what I've spent on trip. There are no certainties in life (triteness meter redlining here) but I have a reasonable safety net and no point worrying about what I can't control, and since doing that exercise in Quito I must admit I haven't been too worried. Thoughts have crossed my mind but not in too disturbingly intense a way.

Slightly tempted to get a third pint but I won't. Definitely not worth it. Anyway, I view it as saving alcohol allowance for beers with friends in next couple of weeks. :-)

2310 How cool was that? My walk back took my across the plaza in front of Casa Colorada (as it did back in Jan). I either didn't notice on way out or, more likely, took a slightly different route. A few people on street, not many (except nearer hotel where bit busier) and it felt very much like walking through the City (of London) at 2am. V safe, v cool. A decent end to the trip, despite HMRC's best efforts. :-)

2313 Or do I mean Casa Rosada? No matter, the experience is the thing, the words are something for the guide book.

2316 Bit silly but I'm lying on the bed here in my slightly tatty hotel room and I remind myself how well I'm doing. In large part *because* I'm in this slightly tatty (but perfectly acceptable) hotel room instead of spunking hard-earned cash on some luxury suite. Nothing wrong with a bit of luxury occasionally but if I was perpetually addicted to it this trip would have been unaffordable.

2320 Yay, the GPS tracking app silently died 45 or so mins ago. Not a huge deal, I didn't have my camera with me, but still, bit sucky as I like the track to follow me everywhere.

2321 Lemons->lemonade. As I stepped to the edge of the room to get a GPS fix I realised the room has a balcony. Street view tastic.

2340 Re earlier point, I don't claim to be an ascetic. But on that spectrum I'm towards the left, and thank fuck my tastes for luxury are so easily satisfied. To my left is someone kipping in a dormitory every night, but off in the distance to the right is someone in a luxury suite. Low standards for, in every sense, the win.

0020 Balconying it up with some music, but while I remember: the secret to drying washed clothes, *especially* underwear, is to wring it out in a towel without too much other stuff. And back to our balcony party, though need to go to bed about 1ish.

0104 Bed.