Saturday 8 December 2018

San Pedro La Laguna, Friday night

2010 At La Alegre. Q29 for a (UK) pint of draught Gallo, not exactly cheap. Very quiet, I am in upper of the two floors at window looking at lake. Not really inclined to sit at bar.

Could prob have got a litre bottle cheaper but didn't want to commit to burning a litre of my probably overdrawn alcohol allowance at this point. Gut feeling is unless it gets massively livelier I may leave after this (not necking it) and try somewhere else, though not sure huge range of options available. Maybe Mr Mullet's, which I think is a partyish hostel but bar open to public.

Guy at photo exhibition earlier proudly showed me some photos of him with his family in London, by Tower Bridge and London Eye, which was oddly touching.

2101 Nearly finished pint. Unless lower of the two floors is much livelier will go and try somewhere else. Bit nervy about it TBH. But WTF.

Quite nice view of town across lake (Santa Cruz??) - town is quite away above lake with narrow trace of lights on presumably main street down to lake. Recollections of being at Iguana Perdida suggest the lake shore is rather isolated from the town there, based on what I was told.

2100 At Mr Mullet's. Busier but not insane and frankly a bit odd. Barman seemed to want to ignore me and is polite but oddly distant. I feel a bit old but fuck knows if that is it. Sitting at bar but not at the bit near where they're serving, further down. Got litre of Brahva for Q30 which is OK anyway. Some other places near dock seemed shut or very quiet. See how this goes, I just may go home after this.

2145 Music very 80s; perhaps odd given (not that I've looked round much) 20sish crowd. Not that busy. There's a sort of presumably bouncer chap lurking which seems odd. "La Isla Bonita" playing now, perhaps not a coincidence given the San Pedro reference. We had "Walking on Sunshine" a bit ago. Not feeling too bad, frankly can't imagine striking up conversation but I may stick on for a second litre then go home, it's not too bad an atmosphere if I ignore the slight interloper feeling - real? age? because I am not staying here?

Wearing fleece tonight, think prudent given both on top floor of The Alegre Pub and here I feel comfortable temperature bordering on very slightly cold wearing it.

2151 Mana now, I think. A different 80s.

A sticker on fridge advertises my hostel in Pana tomorrow. Not sure if that's a good or bad sign.

2200 "Mr Brightside"

2219 Just left beer on bar to go for a piss - technically foolish but judge no risk here. Asked bored-looking probably bouncer v politely where bog was. Had a bit of a squizz round bar on return; there's actually only about 7 people here, split into two groupsish. But I'm not too fussed; I prob will have another litre (tho still bit of this one left) and go home, I am not getting the feeling SP is buzzing tonight and in a mixed way if it's same in Pana it may be good for me, as a low key kind of socialisation at new hostel may be possible. Feeling a bit more comfortable anyway.

(Was speaking with photo exhibition guy in Spanish earlier. No idea if he's native Mayan speaker; he said he had moved here from Coban 40 years ago to teach.)

2227 No music now. I don't think they're closing but this almost inclines me to leave. FFS, I didn't necessarily expect or even want to participate, but is this the legendary SP party? To be fair maybe it's off season, I am far from sure but while there are obvious tourists in the street, there are also not hordes of them.

Some guy just turned the fridge off?! And now he's putting bottles of spirits away off the shelf. I guess in a place like this unlike an isolated bar you have to worry about theft from hostel guests overnight.

So fuck it, I've nearly finished this beer and I might leave. If there's nothing else doing I'll just go home. If Alegre shows signs of life might return there but not otherwise. I am willing to take a punt on other beer elsewhere - ah, much overheard talk of "Sublime" as somewhere to go, but not sure I fancy it, I have an idea it might be a club. Well it's not in my guide book, but doesn't appeal even if I could go. Rather find a bar which is lively or go home and bank the alcohol savings for tomorrow.

2234 Almost necking remains of this beer. Couple of swallows left, fuck it, I am off anyway.

2241 Back at hostel. No issues walking home. The Alegre didn't seem heaving. El Rancho and (my) Tacomex seemed fairly quiet, despite (subject to some legal restriction I don't know) serving beer and having nice views which would suggest they could be good drinking venues. Lots of shops/food stalls open on touristy bit between dock and little narrow alley down towards hostel but few people. Mixology Lab near old hotel had chairs on tables. Maybe I just don't know where to look, but I'm getting a real off-season vibe. Still, no harm done. Let's go clean teeth and go to bed. Be interesting to see what it's like in Pana tomorrow, either at hostel or (if I can't stick it or can't get chat on or it's dead) at some venue like Panarock which I would like to try. I'm guessing the low quantity of tourists who are out for the night might be concentrated at this "Sublime" place but not in the mood to try and find it (eg I am checking out at 10am tomorrow). Maybe Pana being a bit bigger will be a bit livelier just for that reason.

Only other people - guests, I mean -  have seen here are a presumed couple who were sunbathing on roof terrace earlier (I beat a retreat; against my socialisation plans but they were sunbathing and hardly a chatty situation, plus little shade up there and had no sunblock on, I had hoped to have it to myself and lurk in shade of stair-containing bit). So this hostel is hardly busy.

2253 Cleaned teeth. Cool but pleasant out on balcony-terracey wak to bathroom other side of floor. Can't think why this would be off-season. But who knows? I guess actual university-ish age students from US and Europe would naturally cluster round Jul-Sep-ish holidays. But what about gap year travellers? And winter sun seekers in their late 20s? Or 30s or 40s for that matter? Xela was no place for such people, notwithstanding the few hours of sun, but here seems lovely. Meh. Clearly low season exists and I don't pretend to have a handle on all the influences.

Still just me in this dorm. Wonder if - despite booking.com's "high demand!" shit - will be similar in Pana hostel. Mixed blessing if it is. Anyway, let's go to bed (na na na na na).


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