Buenos Aires, Friday

this is a test

ok so i'm gonna try doing this this is really crap but let's just have a go no it doesn't seem to matter for stop new paragraph paragraph new paragraph new line new line return para full stop new line ok so i need to try this is a bit weird and fruit not working annoying as hell bus services give it a go and also it just turn into a half the voice typing is essentially useless what phase surprise visit seem to be a way to do a new line any word also ebitda . it is footwear spaces round it i just thought it might be a convenient to see me symbol of into the microphone on my headphones the and see what happens but would do not getting much workable stuff is services not and she google voice thing is is it offline blackberry voice typing but i don't know those connection and ok new line know that doesn't do anything so i really annoyed at it lost my thing but i got i might be able to just pick here and the sun nightshade you are the and lab our replacement for no there the accuracy is so poor that without me sitting here in correcting it it's not going to be the remote available nevermind this actually stream of consciousness so you know

1505 So the above was an attempt to start rewriting the lost post by voice typing in Lezama park, which evidently didn't work.

I'm at Lo De Carlitos (a chain, I think) at 338 Chile. If anyone ever comes to take my order going to get a "pinta" (500ml) of Quilmes at ARS80 and then follow that up with an americano at ARS45. Will have to tip 10% ish but tis OK.

May well recap the flight etc later but let's skip it for now.

After spending half an hour to an hour wandering round near airbnb trying to get free wifi, I went and had a coffee in a nearby cafe to get access to their wifi, only to find I had an e-mail from host (since I'd left home) giving me the all-important exact flat number so I knew which bell to ring - I turned up to find there were 5 possibles and of course had no mobile data.

Anyway, I got "checked in" OK - haven't seen room yet as host's daughter was sleeping in it but had a shower and changed and cleaned teeth (without water, as not chancing tap water and didn't have a bottle) and came out.

Wandered towards Lezama park - accidentally coming across the pseudo-museum/memorial under a motorway bridge where torture/execution centre "Club Atletico" used to be. Sobering.

Sat in Lezama park for maybe couple of hours, sort of zoned out and/or musing on past visit (when I was here in prob April 2014 about to return to UK and work). Was nice. Saw some green birds and also a reddy-brown headed white-ish one with a crest (have photo of that one). I then - having seen lots of other ppl with phones out and feeling safe, lots of families about etc - had my phone out and was browsing travel guide on phone. A woman - who struck me as a little odd - came over and advised me I could get robbed. I didn't take her that seriously but a minute later stood up and put phone in pocket, just before four or five teenage scrotes came up to me. One said something, probably rude and/or threatening, but I was a bit zoned out (scared? not sure) and said "no, gracias" without having a clue what he was saying and started to walk away. One of them impacted on my right shin somehow - I don't think it was a kick as it didn't really hurt, I think he was trying to trip me up and wasn't very good at it. I was a bit worried they'd follow me but they didn't seem to and I made sure to walk out of park paying attention and in a different direction from them.

On the way out the helpful but possibly odd woman spoke to about four women in uniform with something about "park defence" on the back (in Spanish) and told them about the scrotes but they didn't seem to care. I kept schtum; I toyed with mentioning they'd kicked me but it didn't seem worth it and I didn't want to get dragged into anything.

Feel mildly edgy as a result but meh. I was definitely a bit zoned out (eg when the woman warned me I thanked her and said "buenas noches" ) - nothing to do with alcohol, this pint is first since plane last night. 

Undeniable this taints Lezama park a bit but will prob go back - just won't have phone out. This was broad daylight and quite a lot of people around.

Near miss anyway, could well imagine they would have done a snatch and grab on phone. I don't think they were up to actually demanding with menaces, but maybe I'm wrong.

Writing this in Dropbox text editor now I've learned the hard way I can't trust GMail app. Web suggests there may have been a 10 second or so window when an undo pop up would have appeared at bottom of screen, but if you miss that that's it, and I don't remember even seeing that, maybe due to panic (but then what do they fucking expect?). I suspect they don't care and like this current design (pop-up confirmations are probably not cool enough, and putting discarded drafts in the trash would probably not be cool either) but I may have a quick poke on web at some point and see if I can submit a feature request if this *hasn't* already been reported and marked wontfix-fuckyou.

Got caught in very brief heavy downpour earlier but hid behind a tree, this was just as leaving park after scrote incident. Raining now but I'm under cover outside this cafe/bar. Feel OK using phone here as there's a screen between me and street so random person couldn't easily snatch and run.

There's an Indian restaurant on Defensa with menu of the day at ARS280ish including drink etc, and also saw a place doing steak+chips at ARS180ish at end of Carlos Calvos (sp). Not sure if I can stay out late tonight (I wonder if daughter is being evicted onto what looks like a bed in the living room, so getting home late might not work as would disturb anyone sleeping here) and may not even try; vague plan is to loiter here a bit, go back to airbnb in couple of hours and get into room etc then come out for food+a couple of pints before going back for an earlyish night.

Weather was sunny as went over to park (and didn't have sunscreen so may have got a bit burned on head) but overcast after but quite pleasant wearing fleece even so.

Bloke just came up selling what I assume is Big Issue equivalent. Didn't understand him but perhaps that worked out for best. He was moderately over persistent but not too bad. Really pissing it down now.

My foolish browsing of guide books on phone in park has me forming a rough plan of taking an overnight bus to Mendoza (Barrera? sp, but nearby anyway) when I leave here - guide book says it's about 13h (but Santiago is 22h??). You can apparently do some hiking/trekking stuff round there which might be worth checking out (didn't do anything like this on previous visit to Mendoza), and if it's not attractive when I get there I can just push straight on to Santiago from there. I need to sketch out more of an itinerary in order to accommodate my need/desire to visit Brazil mid-trip (which is undeniably a nuisance on timing; too early to be end-of-trip stuff but too late to be start-of-trip stuff, given I want to be away for UK winter) but gut feeling is I'll get over to Santiago/Concepcion relatively quickly, then I can visit some hopefully new-to-me places in Argentina as I head over to Brazil from Santiago/Concepcion.

Feeling a bit uneasy with the scrotes and the Big Issue seller but meh, tis OK. I'm fresh off the boat and my Spanish isn't fully unlimbered and I didn't sleep that well last night so bound to be a bit disoriented.

1545 I may well be over-imagining here (this is just ramblings, I'm sipping-ish my beer and just phoned parents via cafe wifi etc) but airbnb host seems perfectly pleasant but I'm forming this mental picture of a woman a bit beaten down by life struggling to make ends meet and having to take in guests to help. Not having a go or anything and fair play to her for making an effort etc, but it's mildly dispiriting. As I say, this may be a ridiculous first impression with no basis in reality.

I may - only about half way down this one - have a second pint, but we'll see.

Walked through Plaza Dorrego by chance on way here from park. Remembered it from previous visits, hadn't realised that was where the famed market is. Don't think I've ever been to the market, have drunk there in evening and IIRC it's pretty pricey and not super fun by my standards.

Did see the bench (corner Chile and Defensa?) with Mafalda statue on; I wanted to see that as remembered it along with Lezama park from hanging around in the autumn-y April weather back in 2014. Hard to say if I found it by chance or memory, maybe a bit of both.

1556 Head definitely feeling a bit sunburned. Not ideal but pretty sure it's not major, I did my best to stay in shade when could and it wasn't a huge amount of exposure, plus this *may* contribute to giving me a mild tan which I presumably need to aquire anyway.

Dunno if scrotes were capable pickpockets - I doubt it - but they didn't get anything, maybe zips on pockets helped. Might also have helped had I been tripped up.

In some sense I was perhaps being foolish but I had seen lots of other people using phones and it seemed a very family-ish place. I guess maybe being alone made the difference, maybe my clothes (probably not my skin colour for once) marked me out as a tourist, also worth bearing in mind these are probably wannabe-tough-guy teenage twats not real thugs or professional thieves.

1602 Another begging-ish chap just came up, put phone away as he did but wondering (prob ridiculous) if it's safe to use even here. Told him didn't understand him. We did worst fist bump in history as he left me (beating my own previous world record). Not really threatening but this is a bit disappointing here in this semi-closed-off outside area.

Obviously sitting around looking at phone is not great travel experience generally as well as provoking problems where I might otherwise be a tiny bit more open/relaxed but at same time I'm not trying to be social right now and it doesn't seem there's much opportunity even if I wanted to; I didn't come here for this, I came to sit down and have affordable beer/coffee and kill a little time. Meh.

Nearly finished this 'pint', probably will have another then coffee, the view's not as cool (but it is Buenos Aires and feels a bit exotic all the same) but maybe the litre of beer then coffee thing which worked nicely for me while staring meditatively at Lake Atitlan will work here.

I'm not pressuring myself to "do shit" today, and ideally not too much in general (my early meditations in Lezama park were partly on this theme). Obviously don't want every day to be hanging around in cafes/bars, but a few quiet beers and/or coffees is fine today when I'm kind of just getting settled in and recovering from the flight (which was fine, lots of rough road mild turbulence but nothing really bad, but I didn't sleep that well as usual on flights and I do feel flying takes it out of me, rationally or not).

1715 I did/do recognise Aqui Me Quedo next door; I sheltered there from a downpour and my phone still has the wifi password on (tho not sure if it works), but I have a feeling it's expensive and I only went there that one time so that's why I didn't go there this time; I only came in here (well, I'm sitting out front, but whatever) because I saw from one of the blackboards there was an at least tolerably priced offer on coffee, it was a bit unplanned, I was just wandering but half looking for somewhere to sit.

Had two pints, been for a slash, when staff next appear will order an americano. Not feeling bad but not feeling good either. Just yawned too, FWIW.

1743 "Vasos vacios" playing quietly from a neighbouring bar in break in (English language vaguely RnB) music from this bar. The other bar's music sounds better, but meh.

Americano not bad, though smaller than I'd have expected. Will have another before I go. Sunset is 8ish FWIW.

1929 Loitered coffeeless for ages, feeling awkward about going "home" but meh. Bill only 170 which seemed wrong (low) but didn't argue, made it 200 with tip which is still too low but fuck it. Broke a 500 note. Let's head home briefly and try to get some water on way.

2035 At Delhi Masala. Went to steak+chips place but was shut. Felt a bit disoriented, maybe hungry. Met car window cleaning guy while stuck crossing street but already forgotten his name. Looked at many bars along Chile re food but most seemed v pricey. Was back at flat briefly, was OK if not amazingly comfortable (totally unable to open door, host looked at me like I was a stranger when she opened the door and was v awkward). Wonder if I'm a bit drunk, tho the two pints were ages ago and didn't feel drunk at time. Maybe it's a slight drunk+coffee feeling. Maybe it's hunger without me realising. Maybe lack of sleep. Fk knows.

Hoping to get lamb jalfrezi with basmati rice and a diet coke. Hardly anyone here but that's fine with me. These are a la carte dishes, the menu del dia is still outside but decided to go a la carte. I am now getting karahi chicken, a different woman came back and tried to explain to me that the lamb jalfrezi was with vegetables or I could have karahi chicken (which is not on the menu and which I had never mentioned myself). I don't have a clue what she was trying to tell me so I gave up in the end and just said karahi chicken. Getting it medium spicy, however that is.

I think I just need to eat and see how I feel. Asked host when she was going to bed, it may be early, she said I could let myself in but I'll probably make a godawful racket trying to get the door open, you have to do some massively counterintuitive things. My intention if I feel OK after eating is to go have a pint or two on Defensa and be home not too late at all. I may just go home.

2103 Well that was pretty good, though it seemed to be lamb after all and could have been spicier. Pretty big portion, came with some naan too, feeling a bit stuffed - I did perhaps inhale it a bit. Not entirely sure if I feel better or not but maybe.

I got a bottle (over a litre) of water earlier for ARS40. Not too bad.

Bill is 425 including a 10 cubierto (cover??) charge. Not too bad. Not sure if supposed to tip given this cubierto, I'm breaking a 500 (naturally) and I may make it 460 if I can - I have loads of 10 notes from buying the water. I'll look into this cubierto business later. OK, I've left exactly 40 as a tip, assuming the change they gave me was right which I think it was.

2114 Back at Lo De Carlitos. No idea what price is at other bars whereas here am pretty sure it will be ARS80 a half litre and if it's more I can offset it against the probably under-billing earlier. Will maybe check out some of the other bar/cafe places along here another night if I'm out here but this is just a quiet pint or two so not too fussed. Got same table as earlier, not that busy compared to some of other places but although I think I do feel better I am *not* looking for conversation tonight. I'm hoping I'll feel a lot better all round tomorrow.

Wikipedia does sort of imply there are trains to Cordoba but may not be up to date; I'm gonna go see what I can see at Retiro tomorrow, and take it from there.

I turned down some (probably) free peanuts offered when I asked for the beer - didn't want to risk paying, but also I am stuffed and really don't need any, even if I'd doubtless eat them.

Gonna read on phone (holding it tightly jic!) since as I said not remotely trying to get into a conversation tonight.

2156 Getting a second pint, feels a bit silly mainly wrt getting back "late" and given I feel OK but a bit tense, but meh.

2207 Still feel a bit antsy but much better than earlier, quite lively in general, lots of people about (not all super young) though several free tables here (good as I have a four seater to myself and would otherwise feel awkward). Not seriously worried about walking home, that's completely different from a few twats in the park, and can't live in fear anyway. Expect to have lots of people on street this relatively early as I go home. Still have most of second pint but that's OK, not overly nursing it but not necking it either.

No sign of host's daughter earlier on my brief return. For all I know she is 25 and stays over occasionally or is 7 and is now staying with the host's divorced husband - I don't have a clue. Lots of Communist literature on the bookshelf in my room FWIW.

2221 "Tren Al Sur" playing, can't help smiling. :-)

2229 Not quite finished pint and other tables free but staff v proactively asking if I want anything else. Not sure why. Asked for bill anyway. 160 as expected, will make it 190 and that will go most of way towards earlier underpayment and might over-tip a bit another time if come back. Address is Chile 342 BTW.

Strangely mangled song playing which sounds a bit like "How Soon Is Now". I doubt it is, it sounds weird, almost like there's some bizarre playback problem.

WTF? Waitress came back with change, I stretched out my hand and said "gracias" and she said "gracias" and pocketed it. Not super happy. It's OK as I suspect I morally owed them this much after earlier under-billing but feels extremely shitty to be "tricked" like this. She also asked if she could take my not quite empty glass. What is the fucking hurry to get me out of here? There are two tables free next to me, I've had two pints tonight and four in total today, I'm sure as fuck not drunk or obnoxious. Meh. Anyway, I'll drink up and go.

2310 In bed. I'm gonna be honest, this pretty much bites. Forget the waitress, I'm not happy about that but except for being so desperate to shove me out I'm not too fussed. I maybe have local tipping etiquette wrong and she's peed off about my 200 on a 170 bill pmt earlier. To my mind that's well over 10% and it's rounded up nicely but *maybe* it's out of order and that's why. Or maybe she's an arse. And I'm still figuring out the currency and 10 is about 20p so it was a bit silly to faff with that amount, but even so I still feel it's a bit off for her to pre-empt the possibility of me keeping all the change. But meh.

The bed is saggy. There's no power socket near it so got to take power bank to bed with me so can use phone in bed and still charge it (this is minor, I admit). Not the host's fault, but my US-and-AUS style plug adapter (which I had to bring instead of new reliable US-only one used in Guatemala, due to varying standards over here) is - as I half remembered, but of course couldn't test in UK - ropy as fuck and my Euro adapter doesn't fit the sockets in the extension strip which is tri-standard as the holes are too small. Anyway. I may be wrong but I reckon this is a one bed flat and host is sleeping on bed in living room and I have the one bedroom. Which not only fucks me up if I ever want to come home late, but also means I have to go through her "bedroom" to get to the bathroom in the night.

She has given me a fan etc which is nice. She's a decent enough person.

But there's a difference between "staying in a spare room in someone's home" and "staying in the one bedroom while they sleep in the central lounge area between you and a) the entry/exit door and b) the bathroom". And yet I'm going to feel compelled to give an "it was great" review on airbnb, like everyone else, so you cannot rely in the least on the reviews to tell you what it's like. (I suspect wanky philosophy/moralising types who don't live in the real world would disagree, but if I *did* give an honest review ("she is a good host but you will feel massively restricted/in the way because she sleeps in the lounge when you're there") it won't stop other people lying to be nice in their reviews, so why rock the boat and upset her for no reason and maybe have her strop out on me?)

I couldn't get the door open, she tried to give me instructions through the door so I could learn but didn't understand, TBH suspect this is her problem as much as a fault with my Spanish. Not a big deal in itself.

Feh. Not walking out, I've pre-paid, I don't need to be out late and blah blah, but still, not super happy. Maybe she *isn't* sleeping in the lounge (but she asked me to help move a big fan right next to the bed-looking thing in the lounge). If I'm busting for a slash at 3am we might find out. Anyway, let's send this and try to sleep.