Buenos Aires, Saturday

1537 At El Federal (Peru y Carlos Calvo), having pint of their cerveza rubia (ARS90). Think have been here before.

Woke up about 3am with that trapped pseudo-homesick feeling, but went back to bed (not using bog despite minor temptation) and fell asleep OK. Woke about 1015, got up maybe 1045. Host had slipped note under door, she'd gone to work, had a bit of struggle with note's Spanish but think got it sorted (with some help from Z via whatsapp) and left flat about 1220 after shower, shave, etc. Put sunscreen on and come out in just a T-shirt.

Went over to Retiro. Noticed some long distance ticket windows, was tempted to speak to the staff here (if there were any, didn't look too closely and the windows were a bit cell-like) but then noticed a big 40" odd monitor was advertising train info and was touch sensitive. I took screenshots of the three routes available, to Rosario (leave/depart in middle of night so bit stressful, IIRC without checking screenshots), Cordoba and Tucuman. Prices seem vaguely sane. Cordoba and maybe Tucuman vaguely tempting but no departures Tuesday, Rosario every day but don't like times. Need to mull this over. Wondering about maybe coming *into* BA by train (from Cordoba perhaps) later in trip, either right at end prior to flying home or if I come back here as an intermediate point for some reason.

Toying with maybe taking day trip by train to Tigre tomorrow or Monday but not worrying about that now.

Also went to bus terminal. Spoke to four companies, bit of a welter of numbers but it's all Spanish practice. Anyway, it looks like a cama ticket to Mendoza is going to be 2600-2800 with semi-cama from (maybe) 1800 to 2300. This is a hell of a lot more than I expected, perhaps naively.

I had a quick look on booking.com before leaving flat and while there's a lot of "high demand" bollocks, I can probably get a private room and definitely a dorm bed in Mendoza or Cordoba for around ten quid a night from Wednesday on.

Wandered extensively (though phone can't get GPS easily, presumably due to tall buildings, so GPS track may not show it). Ended up buying 1.5 litre bottle sparkling refrigerated water for 30 in a small supermarket, drank most of it sitting out in street. Tried to buy some apples in small shop but got confused over price and handed apples back and left as couldn't understand. Bought 5 bananas in another shop for 39 (would have liked fewer but didn't like to split bunch) and ate the lot standing outside shop - there was a public bin outside so handy for peel disposal and because I don't have a daypack or carrier bag with me couldn't conveniently carry some of them around to eat later.

Need to mull over ongoing transport plans. Sitting inside here BTW, I figured it's more private/less beggars interrupting and while it's nice-ish out (very hot out of shade) it's not a location I think is super nice for sitting outside in, only a few tables out there and not so clear if staff pay much attention to them.

1729 Had coffee, bill 145, leaving additional 20 tip - web suggests 10-15% is fine so going with gut on this. Second slash and let's see if that cheap steak place saw yday is open.

1842 Back at flat. Youngish (mid teens?) girl who I assume is daughter let me in as I was fumbling with the door, though I did manage to get it open myself this morning when I shut it after leaving. Bit awkward, neither of us introduced ourselves but whatevs. Topping up phone with iffy plug adapter prior to heading back out.

The place right at east (?) end of Carlos Calvo was shut, but I took a punt on a grill place I didn't get the name of just half a block west of there. There was a menu outside but basically when I asked if kitchen was open they asked what I wanted to eat, suggested "carne" and I said "con papas fritas?" and that was it. I didn't ask for a drink and they didn't offer one, all very informal. Minor fears I'd get an insane bill but price was in line with menu del dia outside - ARS195 for a big and pretty decent steak and chips, I gave ARS20 tip but not idea if that's OK. Has occurred to me these are very small absolute amounts but then again it is 10% of a non-trivial consumption so is it really "small" ? Fuck knows. Might well go back there, it's just near the big mural which has a woman playing bongo-ish drums.

Plan for tonight is I think to get phone topped up then go out for a few pints (probably 3) and be back here about 10-11pm and go to bed. Quick poke on web suggests the thing to do in Tigre is some kind of tour of the delta and swimming is kind of a thing. *One* comment also said the station was famous for its pickpockets, though of course that may be an internet know-it-all. Not sure if will go or not, see how I feel, maybe will go to Dorrego market instead/as well. Given swimming angle may save it for another time after I learn to swim.

Still mulling over general travel plans but gut feeling is I *will* spring for this bus ticket to Mendoza. I would like to use the train but not so fussed I want to change my plans just to use it. Might see if I can do any trekking round Mendoza, after/if not move on to Santiago and Concepcion, see if I can comfortably and profitably pass a few weeks there "settling in" and maybe getting some Spanish lessons (if only paying someone to talk to me by the hour in a cafe or similar). I think I need to see how that goes before I make any other definite plans. I am toying with flying from (say) Santiago to Sao Paulo if I do decide to pass a fair few weeks in that bit of Chile (and therefore don't want to be spending a week stressully making a series of bus trips to get to Brazil), after I spend my little bit of time in Brazil I could then get a bus over to the Brazilian side of Iguazu Falls (which I haven't yet visited), cross over into Argentina (have seen them, but probably worth a re-visit) and then meander vaguely around from there. (Hopefully not taking *too* many buses, if I find somewhere I like to "settle" for a bit - buses are a bit stressful and probably expensive.) Depending on how things go I might then get a train back from Tucuman or Cordoba to BA at the end of the trip.

As I say I need to be flexible, the Brazil side-trip is a bit of a logistical nuisance but I'll make it work, and apart from that I need to be careful not to plan too much as otherwise things will turn into a chore rather than a fun exploration/bummel.

Fair number of maths textbooks on the shelves in airbnb room along with the communist texts.

Have wondered if bus is expensive in part due to it being high season, but who knows? I guess it *is* quite a long trip.

1955 Phone only up to 81% but may head out soon. Getting dingy but not turned light on. Would like to use bog but not sure if daughter is in there.

While looking up tips earlier found that the "cubierto" is a charge the restaurant makes for itself, not waiter, which in theory covers stuff standard on the table like bread. Seems a bit of an iffy practice to me - why not roll this into the price of the food instead of having a small secret extra charge? - but no big deal, IIRC it wasn't very much at all at Delhi Masala, and I have seen several menus saying they don't charge it so it clearly isn't universal (maybe it's a dying tradition, I don't know).

Probably going to go out in just T-shirt, I can probably sit inside if it is too cold out and it shouldn't really be too cold out according to forecast, plus since I don't really plan to be out late if I *do* end up coming home early as a result it's not the end of the world. Probably just try one of those other places on Chile, not really looking for anything special, just a few "pints" at non-insane prices. If anyone does want to talk to me that's great (as long as they're not trying to sell me anything) but not particularly seeking anything tonight. Will want to socialise at some point but thinking I'll see what happens re Mendoza accommodation options and treks and so on.

Didn't sleep too badly, and I may have been slightly OTT saying "this bites" last night, but still a bit dubious about whether I can go into bog overnight without going through room someone is sleeping in and I'm going to wait and see how it goes over next few days before judging properly. I may consider airbnb in Mendoza, I only looked at booking.com earlier to get a quick idea if everything was booked up or not.

2007 OK, could see bog was empty so used it, let's go out. Bit apprehensive but not entirely sure why. Meh.

2026 Sitting outside Indoor Bar on Chile, nearish Lo De Carlitos. Quilmes 50 and Patagonia 80 til 9, then 80 and 120 after ("pints"). Getting Patagonia for hell of it, picked Ambar since not tried any of them. Moderately busy, I have table for two and people sitting near me but it's fine, there's a woman solo at such a table and one such table free.

Host was sitting in dark in living room reading and daughter sleeping on bed in there. I had no idea they were there. Brief exchange with them as I left. I feel a bit shit about this but then again I'm already playing along with their mild lies on airbnb and if they didn't want the money they didn't have to accept guests, and I'm no more responsible for any shitness in their life than I am for the shitness in lots of other people's lives.

They have wifi (not near enough to Caritos to get theirs), as did El Federal earlier. Will get pwd when waitress brings drink - got it, it includes "mafalda" which is a nice touch I guess and I also managed to get it without having it written down. I do worry about my Spanish skills (and sometimes attitude) but it's all practice.

Don't *need* wifi but means Dropbox can back this up to cloud which is nice, and I may surf a bit or something. Battery 83% which should see me through the 2-3h I plan to be out even if screen on continuously. Going to read on phone, I'm not here trying to look like I'm inviting someone to talk to me, if I find I want to muse/stare into space that's fine but not going to not read to appear less "closed off". Do sort of wish I had people to talk to but I am not desperate, and I will maybe check our the couchsurfing non-stay thing once I get a bit more settled somewhere else. Might write myself a profile for it tonight if I feel like it, may not.

May or may not write more about flight but nothing major, FWIW:

- flight out of Heathrow delayed due to bad weather at Frankfurt delaying the plane earlier, but we did make connecting flight and though I was legging it round the terminal (in part following example of a youngish woman I spoke to briefly on train across to terminal C who was also getting my flight) it was fine. I did have to go through security at Frankfurt so my dash into bog to wring out a kidney and tip all the water from Heathrow down toilet wasn't wasted. Couldn't see water fountain after security in Frankfurt, did go into one bog at gate with no joy.

- got a seat free between my aisle seat and window seat passenger on both flights. Both were fairly busy flights.

- watched War Dogs on flight to BA. Thought it might be preachy when it started but was quite good overall.

- got no 8 bus OK from airport, young woman who had never been to BA before but who had read her presumably up to date guidebook haf bought a SUBE card at airport (I didn't know you could do that; in fact I had read you couldn't) paid the ARS30ish fair for me (and one other guy) and I gave her 50 cash. Will look into getting my own card, toyed with it today but decided would check on web to see how much card costs before getting ripped off by a shopkeeper overcharging me (paranoia). Will definitely need one for either bus to airport at end of trip (won't use private shuttle unless my flight leaves really early, and I don't think it does) and probably if nothing else for getting from current airbnb to Retiro with bag when I get bus out of here.

2159 Nearly finished second pint (this Quilmes); will prob have a third. Fear I'm rushing a bit but meh. At this rate may get back 11ish which is not ideal but hardly debauched. I am in some sense doing them a favour by being away, and it occurs to me I am also not consuming any food despite (if I understand Spanish correctly) host saying she offers four meals a day, which is a further smallish benefit to them. Feh.

2204 Been in to bog. Virtually no one inside. It's a hair on the too cool side outside in short-sleeved T-shirt but pretty comfortable all the same. Busy but not rammed outside. I guess this is early by local standards. Will get one more then back. See how I feel tomorrow but gut feel is I'm not going to Tigre. May well not go but if I go Monday it may be a bit less busy (though doubtless also less "lively") and I can perhaps just potter around for a few hours before coming home, don't think train is expensive - though having a SUBE will help and may be necessary, so I think will buy one tomorrow. May need fucking ID but will chance my arm with credit card sized passport copy first. Official website was down but I think it may be ARS25 to buy one, you can get one at Subte stations so may try that as will prob be less likely I get overcharged. Doobie Brothers' " Long Train Running" coming from inside, not really any music outside here.

2237 Nearly (not quite) finished third "pint" (gonna stop quoting that). Definitely rushing a bit, maybe I would be drinking fast anyway, but do feel a tiny pressure to get back. Meh. Will take bit of time to get bill I suspect too but should be back round 11. Not that I said a time to host, this is just my personal goal wrt not causing over-much shit while not going to bed at 9pm just in hope of avoiding disturbing host. Tomorrow night I may have an early night though, or at least say I do then loiter in room on web or reading but not asleep. We'll see. This isn't terrible and I'm not writing airbnb off yet.

Bill v quick actually, is 250 which seems rightish, will make it 300, a bit nominally generous but feeling my way here. Let's neck last of beer and home.

2257 Home. Everyone up, not sure if waiting for me or not. Host is in bathroom but will clean teeth when she's finished then to bed. No problems walking home, as last night streets prob busier than during day - certainly busier than they were when hanging around that 30-60 mins before getting in to flat Fri morning.

FWIW the "pint" glasses do have a line at 500ml and are filled with beer to that point but come with a big head above it which seems to rapidly collapse. So it may well be they are actually UK pint 568ml glasses, just served with half litre of beer plus big head, which would semi-justify the name.

Phone down to 43% which is mildly disappointing but since I used it virtually non-stop at bar for approx 2.5h is really not bad at all.

Host's daughter showed me how to use the key, to be fair I had got it working that one time earlier, it's just that someone usually comes to door before I can get it right. However I have now hopefully spotted which direction to turn it and may be able to do the trick a bit easier next time.

2323 Bed. Host and daughter having a chat when went to bed, hard to say what they'd have been doing re bedtime were I not here. Feh. Not tired but not not tired, will read but let's send this now.