Bogota-Buenos Aires

0757 In hotel reception. Woke up about 5am, irrationally bit panicked, only had bit of water so decided to put a water purifying tablet in bottle of water in case wanted a big drink later when no time. Bottle wouldn't fit in sink so had to fill from shower.

Did get back to sleep despite distubing (because they had a "WTF?" quality) noises from (I infer) adjacent room's bathroom. Woke on alarm 0740 but stupidly deliberately stayed in bed til next and final alarm 0745. Hasty dressing and teeth cleaning and checking round later am down here in reception I believe with everything. Not feeling 100% but I never do in morning and can hopefully rest on flight.

0800 Receptionist just give me bit of paper with number plate and 'clave' (read about this in guide book, tho this is 3 digits not 2) for taxi. Said I can wait here in reception and it will be here in about 5 minutes. I do wonder if she only just called to book it when I got down here, maybe not - don't recall hearing her call but then I was bashing out the above and not paying attention.

Said it would be 20kish or tiny bit more. We'll see I guess. It will be on meter.

0822 At airport. Driver didn't ask for clave and the (non-currency-denominated) meter seemed suspiciously large (300 odd) by midway and was worried was going to get stiffed or end up in a row but he said 23k so no problem. I didn't tip, haven't generally here.

0836 McDonalds, land side. Flight is about 20 mins late. Eating land side as I had water in my bag which would be a Security Threat (TM) (R) airside and so this opened up possibility of saving price of a drink with food. As it happens come to McDonald's and a (not overly filling but still OK) breakfast with orange juice only 12.5k. I do wish they did the regular menu instead of/as well as a breakfast one, but kudos to them for providing tolerably priced food at airports.

0922 At gate. Security OK though they asked me to open the bag of chap in front of me (I didn't, of course, we both explained), then they passed my bag through scanner a second time and I wasn't absolutely sure I was allowed to take it. I guess it's natural to fear a process as arbitrary and potentially freedom-threatening as airport security even when you aren't a terrorist or drug smuggler.

Not sure I have seen anywhere to eat airside but I am not really hungry, there will probably be some food on plane and don't see any point throwing money away on more food now so not questing for a restaurant. I have an 'emergency' packet of peanuts if I get desperate.

1047 Just got called up to counter via PA with a few other people. They just seemed to want to do some stuff with my passport including swiping the magnetic strip; I suspect this is because I checked in online, though even so it's a bit unusual. Still, no harm done. Departure time still showing 1140 as it has since got to airport.

Oh, I was at Hotel San Sebastian here in Bogota (room 501, trivia fans!).

1134 On flight. Woman assigned seat next to me appears to require five minutes discussion with her friends to confirm it is her seat. Still, she's not fat and I have my aisle seat so who cares?

1204 Yay, we have to return to the gate for an additional check.

Before this I was thinking I should have checked prices for eg Bogota-London. Probably not cheaper given sunk cost of London-BA return (which I could only have avoided with much more rigid planning, since insurance shit prohibited leaving UK without a flight home booked) but by the time you factor in a not-very-valuable-as-holiday two nights accommodation in BA and two extra city centre-airport journeys in BA it just might have worked out cheaper. Meh. Too late now of course. Delay obviously super welcome, since this way there's a good chance I won't get to the hotel til 11pmish and that means, it being Sunday, I won't be tempted to indulge in the vice of eating dinner as everywhere will definitely be shut, instead of just probably.

1235 I think we are now at the gate for this check. FFS.

1240 Yay, there's some minor fault which has to be fixed.

1411 We might be taking off shortly. Fantastic!

1540 We weren't. We are in the air now and have been a while. I think we're going to land 3-4h late. This is a real fucker as it may rule out taking the minibus to that terminal round the back of Retiro (can't remember name) and a taxi from there. If so I could end up paying something like 40-50 fucking dollars for a taxi. I now wish I'd paid the 29 dollar pickup fee the hotel was offering, but of course I couldn't know we were going to be massively delayed and 29 is insane too. The fucking hotel room costs 25 dollars a night, less than a fucking taxi, possibly half as much! Fucking taxis, fucking airports built a billion miles out of town with no fucking decent public transport.

(Since I pretty much have to get a taxi to airport to fly home - time too tight to risk the public bus - and (although it's not particularly dangerous in BA) I never like to get a cab off the street to go long distance I will have to ask the hotel for a cab to airport and that pretty much puts me in the position of them sticking me for USD29. I was 'expecting' this outbound but inbound I expected to be able to trade time and convenience for money, but thanks to this delayed flight I'm probably fucked. Bunch of cunts. They should fucking be obligated to compensate me; we're not looking at a 15 minute delays here.)

It is fractionally tempting to camp out at the airport and get the first public bus into town, but the risk of then oversleeping tomorrow night is too high, even were it not otherwise an unpleasant prospect.

1552 My (outdated) guide book suggests the minibus runs up to midnight. Just have to wait and see I guess. They said lunch would be served once we reached cruising altitude but no sign of it yet. I expect it to be inedible just because I'm keener than usual - if not desperate, breakfast was 725kcal (it happened to be printed on the display board), I probably have 500-1000kcal of peanuts and a packet of extra strong mints so I'm not going to starve, and as I recall there are lots of 24h shops near hotel so may be able to get some crisps or something on arrival at hotel - but you never know and at least a drink would be nice.

1649 Food actually OK. Not enormous quantity of course but OK.

1920 Finally finished Atlas Shrugged, which I have been reading on and off possibly since I started this holiday back in October. I can't help but feel it's about twice as long as it ought to be.

2312 (Argentina) Yay. I'm at the Manuel Tienda Leon stand out where the bus arrives (couldn't fucking understand instructions after buying ticket inside terminal and like a fuckwit I just said OK and walked off through the one-way door, but someone pointed me over here without even asking exactly what I was lucking for. Next bus is midnight. Thanks once again, Aerolineas Argentinas, for that three hour delay. They go half hourly earlier I believe. Still, it "only" cost ARS110 vs ARS380 I was quoted for a remise direct to hotel, so as long as I can get a taxi I should save money. I put "only" in quotes because at the official exchange rate that's still nearly fourteen quid. For a bus. Fucking hell, it doesn't cost that much to get a fucking train from Gatwick (IIRC) or the tube from Heathrow. Still, I'm going to be getting to the hotel about 1am if I'm lucky, more like 1:30am if I had to make a bet on it. I hope they haven't decided to give my room away or anything, I understand a booking isn't generally considered binding in the hotel trade. If I want to go out for a bottle of water or some food - and frankly I might not, I can purify some tap water and maybe skip cleaning my teeth rather than wait the hour (or is it 30 mins?) it takes to purify. On the other hand, my body clock is two hours earlier than local time and I'm a night person, so if I don't get to bed til 2am local time that's only midnight body clock. I am feeling a bit tired though. We'll see I guess. I might be fighting to find a taxi at 2am for all I know.

Guy at booth here told me very explicitly 'here at midnight, or 10-15 mins before'. Cos I guess I might decide to pop back into terminal for a quick meal or something. As if, when I can enjoy standing around aimlessly? At least the weather is OK; they said 15C as we came in to land and with jacket on it feels very pleasant.

2324 Trying to look on the bright side - and while decidedly not chuffed I'm not at the "swearing out loud in English" point - I had ARS300 left from January and I have to assume it will turn into bum fodder by the next time I'm here given the state of the Argentinian economy. I still need to "live" for the next day and a bit but the hotel is going to be paid in USD and the taxi to the airport might be so in some very narrow sense this is "free" (or rather, allows me to claw back some of my excessive withdrawal back in January - not that I can blame myself, what with insane per-withdrawal fees - iirc four quid a pop, I am sure I bitched about it on blog at time tho - in this broken economy it wasn't easy to be too precise, it never is - anyway, perhaps I should say the marginal cost of this bus/taxi is close to zero instead). I also have sufficient USD that if necessary - and they'll deal with the tiny amounts, which is less clear - I can go to a street money changer for the unofficial rate instead of having to withdraw any cash. This is not an accident, I was v careful to ensure adequate USD supplies when I left Ecuador.

2335 The ticket does actually say 'Lavalle y Maipu' which is where I told the chap my hotel was; guide book does say bus will drop you at some central hotels, so I just possibly - not to get my hopes up - might actually get dropped right there.

2347 On bus.

2349 We're off.

2351 Asked ticket checking chap if could get down at corner Lavalle (no idea if that's a Spanishy ll or not) and Maipu and he said yes. So fingers crossed.

2354 We've stopped somewhere on the airport complex. Isn't this exciting? Best blog evar.

(I deliberately have my bag with me instead of in the boot to faciliate getting off.)

2355 "Englishman in New York" playing very softly on crackly radio.

0013 "Got a feeling I could be someone... remember when you're driving in your car"

0038 At Terminal Madero. I asked, this is 'Lavalle y Maipu'. So why the fuck do they

0044 OK, it looks like the ticket includes (?) an onward connection in a shared cab. Milling around terminal on sheep grounds has revealed this. I might get a cab over here and bus out to airport on Monday morning. Guide book undersold the service if is included connection.

0112 Yes, so bus+cab not too bad value. Checked in. VAT of 21% on top - I just *luuurve* the way booking.com doesn't include this in the headline price and then sometimes you do get charged it and sometimes you don't - so USD62 for two nights but still could be worse, can't remember if charged VAT last time. In room 2, different from last time but OK. Went out for food. 24h restaurant opposite but rather pricey (if understandable). 'Abierto 25 horas' on corner but drunk fuckwit occupying the tiny pigeonhole through the grille with his two slimy sauce-covered hot dogs and not moving away after being served but instead chatting with guy on duty so fucked off to opposite corner. Another A25H there with lights on and guy inside but no hole in grille. WTF? Fortunately had spoted an open shop with no grille (not a chain) when had to walk a block after dropped off by taxi as road closed (not their fault) so went there. ARS44 or £5.50 for bottle of water, largish packet of biscuits and tiny packet of ham flavour crackers but a) this is in part the shitty official exchange rate b) it is 1am so I expect to pay a premium c) I paid less than expected to get here d) will probably go back to airport Tue via cab+MTL bus from terminal Madero so saving there e) therefore not that pissed off and it is also way cheaper than eating at that 24h restaurant f) but a bit pricey all the same g) I should eat - not that hungry but decided best get something - and clean my teeth and go to fucking bed and stop writing this. ;-) Will send now.

Bogota, Saturday

1433 On Cerro de Monserrate, waiting for cable car down. I came up on the funicular (as it was due to stop at 2-3pm so I figured better get that up, as I wanted to use both). Views pretty cool though lot of haze.

Woke up 10-1030ish actually feeling OK but rather weakly stayed in bed til about 1130 despite being desperate for a piss. Left hotel about 12 and there were quite a few people about and actually at the lower terminal a huge contingent of soldiers. Didn't really think about doing the walk up the hill; would be sort of cool but guidebook implies it's more a morning thing for safety and is also a bit vague as to if it's reopened and I didn't check on web etc. Besides I did want to try the funicular and cable car. Maybe next time I will walk up. (Didn't seek out the path, dunno if would have been hard to find.)

Had a small empanada

1506 Fucking hell. Internet cafe shut. Asked if another one nearby, guy said something surly and incomprehensible with a negative quality.

1508 It's OK, in another one across street. If it ever lets me start using it.

1559 Well that was pretty cool. Went looking for restaurant, found one but thirsty so went round block to find a shop where could buy cold diet coke. Found one and a bunch of guys were playing jazz/samba (? - they did "oye como va" (sp) at one point) in the middle of the road. Stayed to watch, now in restaurant "Los Autenticos Del Pacifico" for paella and a colombiana ligera. Waitress just asked me something incomprehensible about 'san chichita' (already forgotten) so I said yes when she repeated it a second time.

Had an empanada (tiny) and a rather pricey 4k grilled-corn-on-cob up on Monserrate (been spelling that wrong I think) and a quick apple in room before left. Will probably go for walk (may see if music still/back on, they were taking a break or maybe stopping when I left) and then lard out on a pizza before night in.

Been given a bowl of soup, this is an included extra, I just asked. Prob what the incomprehensible q was about.

1611 Some sort of seafoody soup, quite a few bones so not gone down to bottom but OK if not exactly a delight.

Incidentally yday morning went and asked for my passport so I could take the credit card out on false pretext I needed it; I wanted reassurance they hadn't lost it. I need to collect passport this evening but should be OK. I asked at same time about taxi and they said they could organise it (one comment on web said they wouldn't) and it would be about 20k and 20-30 mins. Flight is 1125 so allowing 3h at airport I probably want a cab at 8am, which is a bit sucky but could be worse.

I hope I am going to get paella and haven't got confused. It occurs to me I haven't seen any prices but probably OK and if it's 25-30k then not the end of world.

1626 Bill been put on table, 30500. FFS. Still, paella is pretty good. Am a bit annoyed with myself though.

1645 Can't quite finish it, am absolutely stuffed. Some of the seafood a bit rubbery but OK. Paranoia says not smart to eat seafood day before long flight but probably no more risky than anything else.

Don't really feel that was worth the money but not the end of world, not insanely expensive.

1812 At reception, collecting passport and arranging taxi for 8am. Street musicians were there, watched them til 6 when they stopped, probably for the day, but in any case was a handy opportunity to break off to come back to hotel.

2055 Oh, FWIW been quite sunny and hot today, whereas up til now been OK (iirc better than Quito) but a bit overcast and pleasant but not overly warm.

0111 Bed. Bit weak but not really tired and it's not like I've been drinking. Some noise from street but no worse than flat in Elephant & Castle, in fact not as bad. Dunno if was like this last night but didn't know cos was out myself. Didn't go out for pizza, as was stuffed after paella and also I had quite a bit of fruit in hotel fridge to get through. Am sure not perfect but overindulgence in fruit today will offset tomorrow when probably won't eat any.

Bogota, Friday night

2145 In 360. REM's "Losing My Religion" playing, the video has Spanish subtitles...

2156 Toto, "Africa". Daniel is on tonight, spoken a bit but he is working - he apologised for not being here, said he had sent me msg on facebook, told him I had been late anyway and no worries. Sitting at bar, feel a bit awkward but think beer is kicking in.. ;-)

V busy, no free tables.

2231 Los Prisioneros, "We Are Sudamerican Rockers". Not a song I yet know well but the English lyrics are obviously a giveway.

2315 Is someone setting up for live music? Someone fiddling on stage. Barman just brought his sax out and stashed it behind bar. Could be. Current inclination is to stay out as late as seems advisable and do my best to be up at 10. Montserrat station is about 1.5km from hotel so walkable and am trusting it to be safe on a Saturday morning.

0009 Live music indeed. (Different) acoustic guitarist and box percussion player on stage, electric bass player stood off to one side. Stopped, probably on a break (tho didn't catch what they said) given sax not come out yet. ;-) Not bad tho not raving, but live music always welcome.

0011 "Rape Me" on during absence. I only know the Richard Cheese version. Or am I

0020 ..confused Depeche Mode, "Enjoy the silence".

0259 Well that was cool. Daniel (who had been working heavily til about midnight so not much chance to talk) introduced me to a friend (Yamian if his email address is to be believed) and we were talking (live music came back on for a bit). Bar shut at 3 otherwise could have imagined it going on longer. Need to try to be up by 10ish but meh, if I do fuck up - tho need to be firm with myself - worth it.

Bogota, Friday

1247 Woo. Got up about 1130. Need to Skype parents and want to be at some tower block for viewing 6pm ish so don't want to be Skyping then. And we've got a power cut; netbook works while battery lasts but of course the wifi is out. FFS.

1345 In some small place for arepa with ham and cheese. Wifi/power didn't come back so came out on epic quest to locate shop bought postcards in other day as it had a postbox and not seen one elsewhere. Finally located it by retracing steps must have taken on way up there from Plaza Chorro Quewhatsit. They have diet soft drinks of local variety here, having 'Colombiana ligera' which is slightly weird (it's a dark orange) and hard to describe but OK.

Think place is 'Arepas Rellenas Donde Fercho'. Arepa nice if not immensely substantial but for about 4k with the drink can't complain.

1433 Back at hotel via supermarket for fruit/veg/water and to break a 50k. Still no power and they seemed to be fiddling with a petrol generator just outside front entrance. Yay. The one day I'm under orders to Skype *and* had plans for 6pmish.

Will do some laundry then go out for a proper meal (once arepa had a bit of time to digest) if power remains off.

1523 Wandered, bit of struggle to find decent restaurant, went in one ok-but-cheap looking place but most dishes 20-25k, so left after saw menu. In this other place getting churrasco; no diet soft drinks so having a guava (I think) juice (with no sugar; dunno if that's normal or cos I asked about sugar-free drinks).

1558 Place Molina-Sazon. Not amzing - steak rather gristly - but OK. Didn't seem to get charged for the juice, bill 13k. Not worrying about that, maybe it's included.

1806 At Mirador Torre Colpatria, in queue to get in. Not ideal but meh. Went to net cafe after eating, online checkin gave reassuring message about 'your flight details have changed, please call us' but since it implied you can't check in more than 36h in advance not too worried yet. Shit timing that tomorrow is the only 'safe' day to go up Montserrate and the day I need to check in for flight and deal with any fallout if there is a problem, esp as Montserrate has to be earlyish. (Stuck between two couples in queue. The one in front is OK but I keep getting kissing noises from the one behind.)

Skyped parents v briefly from net cafe w zero privacy but power back on when got to hotel so called again, surfed til came out to walk over here.

In hindsight might have been better to have less time in BA at start of trip and more now, since as-is tonight is really (and even then tomorrow morning squashes it a bit) the last fully open night of the holiday. After tomorrow it's really just a slow, drawn out return to the UK. OK I might visit one museum and have a coffee or something in BA on Monday but it's hardly going to be fun. But then again I had perfectly good reasons for not absolutely dashing out of BA at start of holiday. I think it doesn't help that while I will doubtless want to return BA, I do like it and I would like to have a fun night out there, still haven't cracked that, it isn't that novel to me any more so I didn't want to invest say four days at start *and* four days at end out of my limited time. (If I had 'unlimited' time then that would have been the easy solution of course, though in reality even were I comfortably-well-off-but-not-insanely-rich [FFS, couple in front starting to get kittenish] retiree with no time constraints, travel insurance considerations might have mandated booking a return flight before leaving home and then I'd still be torn between getting as much time in as possible in new places vs not having a somewhat shitty brief stopover in BA with attendant airport hassles, just as I am now.)

Might have been better to do asymmetrical flights but when I booked my plans were fuzzy and financially it might have made sense to have flown via BA both ways. But from a pure convenience point of view would doubtless be better if I were returning to UK direct from Bogotá (put the accent on for once to show I know it's there).

Queue is shuffling forward but could be a while before I get in. Tis OK, I don't have any plans for tonight beyond "because it's the last night" trip to 360 between say 9 and 12 - have to be up early of course, unless I say fuck it to Montserrate on this trip - will highly likely be revisiting Colombia and thus almost inevitably Bogota, barring major life changes, and I don't think missing it would be a deathbed regret, and the walk back is sufficiently short and busy that I don't have major security concerns. Not to say I *am* going to say fuck it to Montserrate tomorrow but you never know. Assuming I get up here tonight I will have had a good view over the city.

I still need to finish writing up yday but tis OK.

OTOH I have to do something to take my mind off the queue. Let's write a bit more. I got to the entrance and since I was willing to have it in Spanish got taken in on a solo guided tour almost immediately. Would have preferred a bigger group so didn't feel compelled to 'play social games' with the guide - I'd rather walk round and listen and observe - but still. Then left to own devices tho not clear exactly how free I was to wander anywhere. Loads of souvenir stalls and concessions and shit down there, tho not v busy.

It is pretty impressive and quite cool if not OMFG WOW! Bit eerie when you get on your own down there. 3D film about the site a bit naff but OK - and 3D is still a bit of a novelty to me - and sound & light show on ceiling of big cavern OK if not amazing. Oddly single coolest thing I nearly missed as not on guided tour and tucked behind a concession - a huge rectangular pool of water billed as a water mirror. It was so still it was very reflective and with the unusual surroundings and lighting etc it took me a while to convince myself it wasn't just a pit/hole in ceiling of lower floor with no water in (since ceiling was rock and hence could equally pass as floor of a pit).

I already said I walked back through town and v nice and wished I'd had more time there and I opened yday on bus and if I didn't say yday it took ages again on TransMilenio back then it did (but I got a seat, when a Jnn finally turned up after loads of D10s which went from same part on platform at Portal Norte) and I think that's about it.

1843 Still queuing the middle of this U-rated orgy (OK, it's not that bad). I hate queueing. However, I have nothing else pressing to do and doing this may free me up from doing Montserrate this time round if I want. Incidentally, it is only open 6-9pm Fri and something similar Sat/Sun, so I couldn't have come here 'off-peak'.

Need to be careful not to talk myself out of doing Montserrate for nothing. I am not sure I want any socialising at 360; however if I do socialise I might risk staying out late even if it jeopardises the trip to M. If it's just a quiet solo beer then I need to avoid staying up all night for no really good reason.

2013 Back at hotel. That was pretty cool, though the bars a bit obtrusive; even with face right up to them they're too narrowly spaced to become invisible.

Walk back quite good too, v busy, nice urban sort of vibe. Heard Shakira "Whatever, Wherever" or whatever it's called (in Spanish) and "Eye Of The Tiger" at couple of points on walk back.

2052 OK, heading out so will send this now.

Bogota, Thursday

1730 Score. Just walked back through centre of Zapaquira to Avenida 15 and got bus to Portal Norte immediately. Need to write up today of course but probably hold off for now.

OK, let's start anyway. Woke up 10-11ish not feeling that bad but didn't want to get up. Did a bit of web research re this trip when got up 1130ish and actually left hotel just before 1.

Managed to find Las Aguas TransMilenio stn and after some weird problems with my newly issue smart card got through barriers. Enormous wait for B74 to Portal Norte and rammed when on it (very glad I didn't bring my daypack) but survived the hour approx trip to PN.

1748 As had read but also was quite obvious because I was lucky enough to have a bus to Zipaquira waiting when I got to PN it ws just other side of ticket barriers. Bus was full so I ended up sitting on a big weird cushion up by the driver; later a woman sat in a microscopic seat next to this big weird cushion got off and after managing to let her off I took that seat. Ultra narrow but a different form of (only) mild discomfort so worth the change.

1950 At Ricasole for pizza, not been back to hotel yet. Too late to Skype parents. Probably be late at 360 but meh, bit dubious about going but should be ok. Some stuff about did I want the pizza half and half. I think I squashed that but fk knows. Had ice cream sandwich on walk to Catedral de Sal and 2 pears this morning but otherwise not eaten all day.

2140 Just arrived at 360, few people sat at bar, otherwise empty and no one I recognise. I am admittedly 1h10 late, I have a good reason but still, couldn't blame Daniel if he's fucked off. Bit unsure if I want to meet people but meh, couple of beers and can always go home. Trying to work on basis of question "what if this was a good way for things to happen?".

May write up more of earlier, not sure. Forgot to send the little I had before coming out so no point splitting into day and night entries.

I've been given a glass without asking; think is barmaid from last night but she wasn't very chatty with me last night so not pushing it. It's a pint glass tonight! Not sat at bar as the guys sat there kind of render it awkward so have a table.

Let's continue today's story, better than nothing. I got off in Zapaquira, had been following on GPS and I asked as got off too. No signs and the otherwise super detailed instructions I had read on web were vague, but fortunately I had marked it on OSM this morning and short of a surplus of dogs in the streets (perhaps the city effect but since and including Guayaquil dogs been fairly scarce) causing a detour I found it OK. Was about 315 or 330 by this time. Place shuts at 530 iirc but more importantly wanted to be on bus home before dark, I had kind of accepted the walk from Museo de Oro stn to hotel in early evening darkness without worrying about it too much (it's not far and v busy).

Bit of trouble finding ticket office but some woman ran through all the different ticket options then I waited a few mins for someone to turn up at ticket window. I went for the basic 23k package. Could have paid 3k extra for brine museum and 3k extra for a tourist train (fake road vehicle train; I'd seen it in town on my walk over) and had I been there earlier I might have, but she said 1.5h for basic stuff and I didn't want to push it. Not going to regret the absence of train or brine museum on my deathbed and just possibly I will go back in the future. There was also scope for a walk round the grounds or something and (to anticipate) the town centre when I passed through it on way home (I was down side streets on way there) was very pleasant with lots of cafes etc round plaza independencia and it would be nice (would have been nice) to spend time there. You could also pay extra to do some 'be a miner for 40 minutes' thing but had read it was super cheesy on web so although I didn't have the time I don't remotely regret not doing that.

OK, typing on phone - nails a smidge long doesn't help - winding me up so take a break.

2219 Power cut. Not clear if just this bar or adjacent. It isn't pitch black out but it could be from car lights.

2233 Power restored a few mins ago, tho still seems v dark, maybe lights weren't on before, can't remember.

2256 Looks like someone is setting up for live music. I have a vague idea that was mentioned last night actually.

Yep, two guys squashed onto a tiny stage in corner of what is a small place. One with acoustic guitar, presumably other is going to sing.

2337 Stopped. Oasis "Sing me something new" come on. Quite good really, bloke without the guitar did percussion on a wooden box, the barman joined them on saxophone. Not 100% in mood but good to get some proper small bar live music in before trip ends. It's been relatively thin on the ground. Think this song is "Stand by me".

2349 Los Prisioneros, "Porque no se van?" :-)

2353 Pink Floyd, "Money"

0023 "Love me two times and walk away"

0044 Stones, "Paint it black". Having fifth beer and then might go back to hotel. Will probably come in here tomorrow night and don't want to go nuts tonight. Probably wouldn't have come out had it not been for the arrangement to meet here thought it might have been a good thing anyway under circumstances.

Oh, when I paid for pizza earlier they got my order mixed up and gave me way too much change. Being a basically decent person with no grudge against them I went back and sorted it out. They might have shortchanged me by 500 in the process but I'm not totally clear and wasn't going to argue over about 15p.

0053 "Breaking The Law"

0101 Yeah, let's go.

Bogota, Wednesday night

2045 OK, I'm in small and slightly intimidating bar poss called 360 next to Bogota Beer Company. Stones' "Satisfaction" playing. Drinking Poker at IIRC 2300 a bottle. Sat at bar, feeling v conspicuous but f it. Lot of people on street btw. Pub under hotel was open earlier but is shut now, wtf? V dark in here and lots of people (though not heaving) lounging about on cushions behind me. I don't think it's dangerous but you never know, my paranoia has been stirred up. Feh. I have never been attacked etc in a bar, and I'm about twenty seconds walk from hotel. There are no certainties but I don't think the risk is worth worrying about. FFS, even given a 100% safe taxi I'd spend more time in the street getting in and out than I expect to on walk home.

2101 "Hit the road Jack". Always reminds me of C4 "Remote Control". Feeling smidge less awkward. Frankly the whole business about drugged beer etc almost makes me *nervous* that someone might speak to me.

2104 Second beer. Fuck knows how much it cost. Handed 3k in notes over. She didn't like that. Offered 4k even though I knew that was too much, that was waved back. Said something about coins so I proferred a handful and she took some. Probably had no change but my Spanish skills are evidently as a low ebb, waning with the outgoing of the holiday.

Apropos of nothing, Wikitravel says tap water is potable (tho can be chlorine-tasting) here. Quite possibly but not risking it. Touch wood I have avoided any serious episodes of diarrhea (good job as I can't spell it) with my 'bottled or purified water at all times, even for cleaning teeth' rule and I'm not changing now.

2127 Have had look at guide book on phone re getting to Zipaquia (sp). Apart from being possibly over 3h each way doesn't sound too bad. Will see what Wikitravel and maybe web in general say. Guide book says you can do it and Laguna de Guatita in a cab for 180kish but how the fuck do you arrange that? Call a cab firm and ask? Sounds more of a personal negotiation thing. But you're not supposed to take a taxi in the street. As always the guide book frankly sucks but it's better than nothing. I have some idea from this morning wikitravel mentions a 20 min walk or taxi ride in Zipaquira to get to the salt cathedral, if so the guide book says nothing about that. Maybe I misremembered. We'll see back at hotel. Inclining not to do that city tour if it has to be tomorrow, rather get Zipaquira attempted while I have a spare day in hand. Also be good practice with the TransMilenio which may be important to visit the hill safely.

2133 Some people have left and now I look round no one is on the beanbags behind me. Is at least one couple here beside me and it's sufficiently early I am not too worried. Don't want to be out mega late anyway.

Oh, place is '360(degree symbol) cafe bar'.

2143 Judas Priest, "Breaking the law". A song I first learned from Dick 'n Dom...

2155 Beer 4. "Riders on the storm". Made a point of breaking a 20k (but gave the odd 300 exactly in change) since if I am chancing that epic journey tomorrow I don't want to be short of small bills for the four buses (two each way).

0304 Well that paid off in spades. I just spent the night talking with two bar staff and a friend of theirs, and I guess the fact they were bar staff not random people adds confidence. I still hope to be up early, I don't feel drunk despite one of them (not bar staff) sharing aguadiente freely. Meeting them tomorrow 830. Do want to try and be up for Zwhatsit tomorrow, got some advice but basically think is safe and incidentally told that in Colombia it's totally OK to ask owner of random business (probably one you are a customer of) to call you a cab. While would feel wussy to not do the Zwhatsit trip frankly that kind of socialising with locals and Spanish practice is worth missing it for.

Maybe I'm drunk but frankly tonight alone justifies coming to Colombia. That sort of shit is a big reason I travel, and travel to countries where I can more-or-less speak the language.

Anyway, wrt tomorrow morning - not that I feel that drunk - I need to take a lesson from Colin in Bariloche, who got up at 6am to go biking the night after we stayed up til gone 3, and then met me the following night.

(PS Bars shut by law at 3am here, apparently.)

Bogota, Wednesday

1325 At Parilla y Tizon, Carrera 9. Getting carne con arepa and possibly a lemonade.

Didn't get up til 12 as was snoozing 'pleasantly' from 11. Meh, sort of an improvement.

Didn't leave hotel til nearly 1 as looking about tours etc. Basically no. Guide book lists one agency fucking miles away and says most tours are min 2 or 4 people, not going there on offchance. Another is half-listed right by hotel but can't find it.

I asked at reception. I am sure they advertise a tour desk. The response was 'well... it's complicated... you could look on the internet'. FFS.

I am taking it easy today, probably go to Museo Botero after this (in same complex went to first day but didn't make it there). Tomorrow probably have to risk the public transport approach to Zapaquira and probably have to forget about Laguna de Guatita.

Oh, guide book says you shouldn't walk around alone after dark in La Candelaria. Yay, perfect for the solo traveller. I will probably continue to risk the three or four immediately adjacent bars.

Half wonder if I should have booked in at a hostel for 2-3 nights even if it meant a dormitory in order to take advantage of their probably better tour offers. Might - though prob wouldn't - also offer socialising options. Not really in mood at end of trip TBH. Maybe something to bear in mind in future. Suppose I could maybe drop into hostel nearby hotel and ask about tour on offchance.

1506 At Cafe Para Dos not far from - but not in, disappointed at lack of cafes, mind you it is titchy  - Plazoleta de Chorro de Quevedo. Getting an americano (COP2k), slightly tempted by Irish coffee at 8k but no. PdCdQ quite nice in a somewhat run down way.

Went to Museo Botero. Something oddly cheering about his work (chubby just-about-anythings, men, women, buildings, animals, fruit, etc), he also seems to have been amazingly prolific and done most of it in his 60s. I had a strange but pleasant surprise on walking into a roomful of his sculptures to be confronted with a familiar looking chubby cat (the sculpture is called Gato or El Gato). I am 95% sure it, or something remarkably similar, is used in an amateur video accompanying the Youtube version of El Cantor Del Fonseca I normally look at (in lieu of buying a copy of the song).

Then went to PdCdQ and here. Oh, before getting to PdCdQ I stumbled on a tour agency. They don't have any groups going to Zwhatsit in next three days but I left my email address - which hasn't ever worked before but what the hell... They do a 3h city tour at 10am, it is not every day but they have one tomorrow. Bit torn, might do it - I think I can turn up at the office before 10 to buy ticket - as on one hand was hoping to try Zwhatsit via public transport tomorrow and leaving that til Fri is pushing it esp when I hope to go up the hill on Sat when it's safer. On the other hand it would be a way to see more of city. Would be finished by 1 so in a way it would be 'free' wrt time since would force me to get up, but OTOH if I am going to Zwhatsit I would need to force myself to get up, I think 1 would be too late.

Oh, I did step just inside Templo de la Candelaria after leaving the museum.

1639 At Que Como... nr hotel, lard on. Bought some postcards and stamps nr Museo de Oro  (will write tonight and hope I can find place again in next day or two to use postbox), went to cathedral on Plaza de Bolivar (what I have been calling main plaza), also nearby Templo de San Francisco (no photos allowed in latter). Getting carne a la parilla (comes with arepa and chips, I believe) and a diet coke. Dithering but will probably go to a bar nr hotel tonight for quiet drink. Not being too excessive and it is coming to end of holiday. Will go back to hotel after this.

1714 Back at hotel. Food pretty good. 12900 plus slightly stingy (tho not usually tipping at all what with the 'go to till to pay' system in use here, so...) 500 tip.

Good (if long; I've chopped it short as is) quote from Following The Equator:

I find that, as a rule, when a thing is a wonder to us it is not because of what we see in it, but because of what others have seen in it. We get almost all our wonders at second hand. We are eager to see any celebrated thing—and we never fail of our reward; just the deep privilege of gazing upon an object which has stirred the enthusiasm or evoked the reverence or affection or admiration of multitudes of our race is a thing which we value; we are profoundly glad that we have seen it, we are permanently enriched from having seen it, we would not part with the memory of that experience for a great price.

2038 OK, I'm not entirely sure why but going to pop out for a couple of beers.