Wednesday 6 March 2024

Capurgana, Tuesday

Tue 5th 0254 Just got back to (actually rather nice) ho(s)tel room after night out. Could have gone on with some locals and a few other SBA guys to another place but a) it was feeling *mildly* exploitative (a few local guys and some local hot-sh girls) b) the only other guy who was going home my way (v cool 41yo Scot who was talking to in PC in pre trip) is leaving tomorrow for Cartagena and while it would in reality have been fine apart from anything else it was good to be able to walk home with him and he wasn't (reasonably) up for the extra night out (despite being massively up for stuff generally) given his departure tomorrow.

I need to write up last n days but obviously heading towards bed now.

To be clear, if I'd *really* wanted to go on I would have, but altho definitely nowhere near drunk I'd been out quite late and wasn't feeling a massive connection with anyone (local or from tour) except poss Lloyds (really not slagging the other guys off, they are cool) and it wasn't even hard to avoid temptation. If Lloyd had stayed out so would I as the calculation would have swung other way (not drunk, maybe fun, worst case limited) but as it was you know no big deal. And since I didn't *really* want to go on I picked the easier option and came home.

I still have maybe 1/4 bottle beer which walked home with and I will drink it. Gut feeling is tomorrow I may try to get hair cut, see about sorting out remaining accom signin quirks (not sure who is at fault - but it ain't me - but accom wanted to add commission to booking.com price), *maybe* add an extra day, perhaps get hair cut and maybe have quietish day resting and writing trip up and there's a fair prospect of the people from the trip who haven't moved on meeting up tomorrow night.

0336 OK, been finishing beer in bed and with yellow lighting (Cap has apparently only 7h electric a day, the hotel has solar power for rest so fingers crossed) and the mosquito net (with holes I prob mostly tied up this afternoon) there was a weridly charming cathedral effect lying on bed. I may even have a gratuitous rum (I have loads left after trip, and I just noticed a giant cockroach on floor), I dunno. Lots to write up, I feel broadly good but sort of with vague issues. I would kind of like to extend here but it depends on a) how I sleep b) what price I might be offered when I ask c) how the original booking price problem is resolved. And d) the vague malaria/dengue issue here which makes it a smidge edgier than necessary.

I did ask for a prisioneros song at the club and after a while they did play El Baile de Los Que Sobran (a remix, maybe) and my slightly spongy Peruivan mate who worked at Dock which we had had the meal at tonight seemed pleased.

Jeez, how many fucking cockroaches are scurrying around? Considering I'm barefoot I really am being surprisingly cool about it. The room is super clean and I just put this down to tropicality. It may just be the one cockroach.

Anyway, gonna clean teeth and if I want rum I will have it post tooth cleanse.

0347 FWIW when approaching an unexpected mirror at bog at bar this evening I did think I reallt need to pay attention to good body language; I think I looked a bit apologetic and hunched etc.

Cockroach(es) pissing me off a tiny touch. FFS, it's not as if eg I haven't just spent four days in San Blas islands without seeing one. OTOH did meet English expat now living in Australia who spoke of cockroaches being super common. Not freaking out. But feels a tiny bit OTT all the same.

Just had close look at it. I suspect it's just one scared big bugger not lots. To give myself credit, I'm not feeling skin crawling at looking at it etc.

Tue 5th 1655 Right. Woke up 9ish but stayed in room til gone midday. Went out, bumped into Garry and Joani on dock, quick chat, apparently the Swiss guys etc from last night ended up dancing on the dock til 5am. Would have been kind of cool but esp as I had no specific "friend" there I don't really regret not going.

Everything a tiny bit chaotic, partly due to need to book the boat a day ahead. Went to recept (my suspicions rising, not sure if justly or not) to chase up the free cancellation for this booking (may write more later) and the guy (not same one as yday did it there and then so this is prob OK tho I suspect I could still get stiffed.

Went for brief walk round town and then had a pizza at La Luz del Oriente. While waiting Shane and wife/gf Emi (??) came in and while I genuinely like them - they were the ones I sat next to on boat Sap-Cap BTW, tho not written that up yet - I also didn't want to "force" them to sit with me by inviting them to join me at my table and TBH I also feared awkward conv and I was trying to mull over onward plans and they sat at an adjacent table and we had a bit of chat across tables then we sort of stopped talking and I think this was by mutual consent and they said bye nicely when they left and we exchanged pip-pips etc but not sure if I "should" have invited them to join me. Anyway.

Came back to hotel and asked about extending and young guy who checked me in yday seemed a bit standoffish and told me 90k to stay an extra night, bearing in mind my other booking was around 53k night and guy who did free cancellation conf for me earlier said wasn' sure but prob 65k. So I said I'd think about it and went out and bought boat+bus tickets to Monteria via Necocli at 10 tomorrow - various people incl I think Garry, Joanie, Shane and Emi will be on it on the way to Cartagena - and after a bit of dithering (I could have had fan for 67k) I booked two nights with aircon for 97k.

Gut feeling is it might be nice to do casual wondering in M on second day, I can do laundry first night and as it's a hotel not a hostel (there aren't any afaics) I can have a quiet night in, there may be a fridge, with coke and maybe rum and maybe milk and write up all the pending stuff etc.

Power is out so no fans and no hotel wifi, good job have local sim for booking. Fingers hurting.

Have mostly kinda sorta packed. I have plastic bags of all shapes and sizes coming out of my ears. There is some water risk on Necocli boat so have to be careful. I am prob gonna have to fight my pack rat instincts and throw a good quantity of plastic bags out either now or in Monteria.

1712 Apparently and annoyingly I have to pay a separate 4k port tax tomorrow at the dock.

It is possible to walk along coast (I think) from Cap to Sap and I *might* have done that tomorrow had I stayed, but not a huge loss. There is other hiking round here but given malaria/dengue risk my desire to go trogging round in "countryside" is limited.

And I *may* be back here - I blew hot and cold on this during the trip but while I doubt I'd do it "soon" the idea of coming here and doing the SBA trip in reverse is not unappealing.

1717 OK, prob meeting people for (my second) pizza at 1930. This is fine. Anyway, Shane's gf may be Eim(s) FWIW, based on WA people posting. (They are Irish so this looks like a plausibly Irish name I wasn't familiar with and hence it never quite sticking right in my head.)

1725 Just to waffle, torn about "wasting" time vs quietly wandering round earlier, both wrt extra day here and going to Monteria instead of zooming on to Medellin for example. Guide book doesn't have anything on Monteria but Bruce (and Eim when I mentioned it at lunch during our brief chat) said it's supposed to be nice.

I was going to stay here an extra night - this hostel is quite comfortable in its way and chilling here might have been nice, but all this booking price shit gives me a bad vibe and I'm not too sorry to be leaving - once it turned out price was 90k the decision made itself. I was also gonna do two nights M but sleep on it if I was staying here tomorrow, so again that kind of made itself in the end.

I can see why people would want to get on to Cartagena or Medellin but I am not in that kind of rush, I want to find random cool or interesting places "most" tourists wouldn't go to (perhaps for good reason) and so I think it's cool to spend a couple of nights in M and then maybe see if I can find somewhere between it and Medellin too.

Paid 5k for a 400ml bottle lukewarm (tho in hindsight power off most of day, so not exactly their fault) bottle coke earlier (and had a bit with rum back on terrace outside room - I did sit in my hammock out here yday on arrival btw). Can't see a proper "shop'" , just kiosks where you can't see price and they only sell tiny bottles of coke or cans or giant non chilled ones, fwiw.

I didn't catch a word properly but in hindsight I think the reason I couldn't get a second juice after pizza is because the power was out (and presumably they use an electric blender gadget). Hostel presumably only turn on their solar power after dark to save batteries.

Will have shower in 30ish mins to get ready for tonight. I am struggling to tell which of my two RS blue tops is the dirty one I wore every night of boat trip and which is clean. My nose has been a bit bunged up today and I never have a great sense of smell, though I can smell some dirty sewage-ish smell from water being slopped around on hostel+bus booking place next door.

1737 Out of paranoia just been and taken some bad selfies of myself in front of the hostel with the name (if you know where to look) shown. Right now I can't see how they're gonna accuse me of being a no show given my booking has supposedly been cancelled for free, so if anything I don't want to share these photos (they of course only "hint" I was here, but still), but at least I have them just in case.

1742 FFS. Got email from M hotel saying to guarantee reservation I need to pay via some Colombian bank account. The fucking booking.com email says I will pay cash on arrival so WTFuckingF? I will email them back politely despite resenting this fucking jerking me around, I booked and I don't want to be farting about sending bloody messages to them via booking.com about this.

I might mention this to booking.com but of course it's virtually impossible to get in touch with them except maybe by an actual phone call.

1752 Jeez, I'm being a whiny fuck but trying to write the fucking response while the apparently mandatory auto correct suggestions are correcting my spanish into english drives me up the fucking wall. I said semi-assertively booking.com says I'm paying cash and I'm paying cash. FFS, booking.com are gonna charge my credit card if I'm a no show - I didn't mention this - so why the fuckdustering fuck does the hotel feel entitled to demand payment via bank transfer up front? There is no way they can end up out of pocket and why the fuck are they casting doubt on the validity of my reservation and just making themselves look like untrustworthy fuckwits demanding special treatment? I was (and still kind of am) looking forward to this nice aircon room but they've now gone and set themselves back by jerking me around like this. Even if - as I hope - there is no actual issue they still forced me to waste time dicking around replying to their fucking stupid message.

I am tending not to write reviews in general this trip, but now instead of maybe getting a nice review if I particularly like it, they are getting no review if everything is otherwise fine and a review mentioning this payment wankery if they do dick me around. (And no, I don't think this is a dick move on my part. I'm not complaining about the receptionist being a bit busy or slow to check me in. It's an objective fact they sent this extra payment demand ahead of my arrival and so how can it be "wrong" for me to mention it in a review? Either they're not ashamed of it and they won't mind, or they are ashamed in which case why the fuck are they doing it?) This assumes of course they don't play arseholey games as (maybe) this accom did in order to effectively remove my booking.com booking.

I fucking hope the check in goes OK and they don't try to screw me by claiming it's invalid or dicking with the price. I do vaguely hope to not be mega tired or in a "rush" tomorrow - I really wasn't gonna start accom hopping when I got here after the trip - and I have a local SIM so if there is a problem I may (politely) eg call the booking.com helpline or something and see what happens, or of course I can - if it helps - go find some other accom instead, as I expect to be there 2pmish.

I just realised I wrote back to them in Spanish when they wrote to me in English. But as they're stupid idiots I suspect this is an automated pre-translated message and they may not actually speak English. Anyway, it is what it is.

1832 Lights just came on a minute or two ago. I wonder if they're on a timer at 1830? Anyway, while still dingy in here we now have light and fans. I had a shower in the dying light (bright enough out but not much in bathroom) earlier.

I was gonna shave but I already put deet spray on neck-ish regions so I won't. It's fine. Not that it matters anyway and I don't look *terrible* with a day's stubble, but all these people saw me not shave for four days on the trip anyway.

I have not gone through the big pile o' empty bags yet to decide what to keep etc. Worst case I can do it tomorrow morning, I may have a quick look now. May be out late-ish but do not expect to be out significantly late.

1844 If I didn't already say room here is quite nice, albeit no air con and holes in mosquito net etc. There's a balcony outside with two chairs and a hammock just for my room and it's shared with just the room next to me - I am on first floor - which has its own chairs+hammock. It would be pretty nice to sit/lie out with drink at night and write blog or mull or whatever, and you can see the sea when you stand. But what with one thing and another - being busy (in a good way, but just saying) w people from trip plus not staying that long - this just hasn't happened.

2220 Just got back from pizza. Not a bad night overall. Some farewells which always feels a mix of sad and wanky but not too bad really. Need to finish packing. Apparently I need to be at the boat place next door 9-930ish which I wasn't told but anyway.

I think I will send this tonight when I'm done. I will post the writeups of the previous days out of order or something but it seems best to get back in the habit of posting daily.

2236 Mostly squashed stuff in. I haven't thrown most plastic bags away yet, I still have the deet spray and there is the litre bottle of rum and (not that new a purchase) the flip flops. Bag a bit bigger than I'd like but not too bad. Feel sweaty as fuck but guess will go to bed like this as I am covered in deet and it may help and I just *may* have a shower in morning.

Talked to Poz tonight who had heard from Martin about the boat, you don't really get wet. I am going to wear trousers etc but I will wear my bandanna instead of cap as I don't want to have to worry about it blowing off and it is an hour or hour and a half or so so a long time to hold on to cap.

Will clean teeth etc and move towards bed. Probably aim to be up 8ish.

If didn't say was massively confuddled in bed this morning about if I'd been here two nights and had to leave. I was fairly sure I knew I didn't need to leave but it did (and still does a bit) feel vaguely wrong to think that we only arrived yesterday afternoon at fourish, it's like an extra day has been squeezed in somehow in terms of how it feels.

Although I did have vague thoughts that staying here another night would mean I travelled to Necocli and onwards solo and that felt kind of good, it is also kind of nice to feel I'll be with a fair few people I know tomorrow morning.

FTR been having solid shits for a day or two now, fingers crossed that episode is all behind me.

2250 Also fwiw did speak to Eim (sp) and Shane (less, just due to seating, but a bit) tonight and we talked about general stuff and the music in that restaurant and unless they were just being super nice about it they didn't obviously seem to feel I'd been rude or whatever.

Wifi down but will send this via o6 hotspot with local sim then bed.

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