Friday 15 March 2024

Jardin, Thursday and Panama City-Capurgana (part 4)

Thu 14th 1535 On balcony at flat (which I still have to myself judging from keys), having last can of Pilsen.

Didn't sleep great again. Got up OK, went over to tour place and waited to start. About 9 of us on tour, the others in pairs (but not nec relationship couples) - think there were a German speaking couple and the rest were Colombians. All in Spanish. Guide spoke a bit "confusingly" (probably quite colloquial) but I got the gist of everything.

Ride there and back in back of jeep with benches down side - I got a spot at the back so could see right out, except briefly on way back when we gave three people a lift and they stood on board at rear - was perhaps actually coolest part.

We were given a bottle of water and an energy bar and (as it turned out) a small fruit pate type sweet at start. When we got off jeep (incidentally it rained heavily but briefly towards end of this, luckily as I hadn't brought fleece or rain jacket it stopped and I got away with it) we walked 5ish mins to a cafe/hut type place where they gave us a cup of (poss) hot sugar cane drink, a small empanada (German woman gave me hers, which was nice of her) and a possibly arepa with a big chunk of possibly panela on top, which was quite nice. We then walked maybe 30 mins down a trail (rough-ish but well maintained and with wire or hose-over-wire hand rails most of the way) to the cave.

To be frank my initial reaction to the water gushing through the ceiling hole was "is that it?" I had half expected to wander several minutes into a cave to get to it for a start. To be fair it was quite cool and I did enjoy it, I just don't feel it was quite worth the faff of getting to and the cost etc. If I'd hiked 3-4h to get there (which you can do, modulo dogs etc, and pay 20k to enter iirc - no obvious sign of "only 40 people" stuff in guide book) it might have felt a bit more "what a nice end point" .

Four or five people went into the water - spoke to some afterwards, mild teasing about me not going in. Apparently it was cold but not freezing, prob up to about breast height except maybe right under fall but you can't go there as it might be dangerous and/or you get pelted with small pebbles in the water. Half wish I had done it but not a massive regret. I did put hand in water near edge and I'd say cold but not freezing was fair.

We were there ages (I ate the snacks for something to do) then trekked back up - I had a bit of chat (all in Spanish) with a Colombian tour guide (not our guide) - and we were given a fruit juice and a small piece of cake and then got jeep back to town. Other people were tipping guide as we got out of jeep (he was in my jeep, we had two though) and I felt obliged to give 5k but wasn't super happy. It's not that I didn't like him or think he did a bad job or anything, it's just the tour as a whole was expensive-ish for what it was and this felt a bit OTT for not a huge amount of work, but whatever.

Finger break.

Just figured out the "43% mas pola" on beer can - web searching had failed to turn up "pola" . But I thought about the "cola y pola" and thought maybe pola is a Colombian (?) word for beer and on inspecting the asterisk on the 43% bit it says compared to 330ml size, so yes, I think pola=beer (maybe a specific type of beer for all I know, but prob not).

1550 When we got back I walked down to the bus "terminal" (more a garage) and spotted a manizales sign in "el fin del afan" restaurant doorway (it looks a somewhat nice down to earth place but unlikely to eat there) and paid 28k for a bus to Riosucio at 8am tomorrow. Apparently it takes 4h!? (Guidebook says 3, and is otherwise accurate about times.) There is a direct Manizales bus at 645 taking 4h30m (! way faster) but 645 is arse o'clock, it was 68k-ish and I'd just rather go via Riosucio. I asked and also did some web searching yesterday and I suspect there are plenty of buses R-M.

I have WAed accom to say I need to leave 715 and ask if I can just leave key in door.

I then wandered down to the teleferico Gwhatsit (OM is on other phone) on the offchance it exists and it does! It looks a little scary - the single car appears to ride on one cable either side with some plastic wheels just riding on the cable without being captive, maybe I missed something - but I figured it's prob OK. 5k each way, I asked for a return but was luckily told had to buy return ticket at other end. Short but vaguely cool ride. Two oldish women from this morning's tour were there, one jokingly accused me of following her.

When we got off they said they were walking back and I looked at map and ended up following/joining another middle-aged-plus-ish Colombian couple (having one eye to dogs; some barked in gardens but nothing in street) to walk the shortish hike down and back round to the suspension bridge just south of the "nice sunset" place I went to on first night. Wasn't exactly scared to do cable car a second time but the variety was nice. Chatted with them a bit in Spanish, couldn't get everything but did OK - they were from Envigado.

I wandered down to rock garden from N side of bridge - saw it in OM but in hindsight, though I misunderstood at time - the guy from the couple had told me about it as we drifted apart on bridge (I was taking photos) - but it was closed. No big deal. Niceish little walk down there and there was a horse sticking its head out of a stable high over the steep path.

I then went to El Ganadero and had a beer (wasn't going to, but it was hot and I figured I'd kind of earned it with my dynamic morning of modest chat and the bonus teleferico+walk circuit) and a white coffee and booked dorm in hostel in Manizales for two nights (judging from "only x left" stuff on booking.com, at that point I was the *only* guest, we'll see - I suppose if I do get dorm to self at least I'm not really worse off than if I'd got a similarly priced private elsewhere). Came back to accom to do overdue exercises (not a euphemism, btw!) which I won't be able to do in dorm even tho really didn't feel like it and then came out onto terrace for this beer from fridge as "reward" .

Been drinking too much lately - not massively but most days. Prob fine-ish healthwise but it's becoming less special, I need a break but it's difficult with eg having been lugging that rum round and "oh, it's my last day here" etc. It's fine.

I think from Manizales I will see if I can do *some kind* of trek - doesn't have to be Lago del Otun. Colombian tour guide woman is doing some single day trek to top of a 5km mountain, she says she is acclimatised to altitutde etc, but I suspect (despite what I thought at time) this isn't the one I thought it was, as guide book says even experience people prob don't do this in a single day. Still, as i say, I have vague hopes of finding some multi-day trek in Manizales (tour guide woman said there are lots of companies, but also said to search on web, so dunno if there will be shops, we'll see) and that would be a good "big ticket" ish item to finish the trip. I am open to liking Manizales and spending a week there (tho some of that might be off on treks) if it feels appropriate.

Fingers hurting. OK, thumbs mostly to be pedantic.

1603 Just seen on WA chat from San Blas group that G/J are here in Jardin! Given they were going to Cartagena and had plans to go to the northernmost point of South America (which does sound cool, maybe something to combine with lost city hike on a future trip) I am surprised to find they've already been through Medellin and are here. (First night here I did see people sitting outside the bars round the square and really felt like I *ought* to just bump into them, given they always seemed to be sitting outside with a beer when i bumped into them. But I suspect they only got here today.) Sent them a message on offchance they fancy a beer. This would work well, beyond needing to be up earlyish I don't have major commitments tonight. Wrt food I am toying with getting a bigger-than-personal (as the personal is small and proportionately cheap) pizza at the place I went to on first night.

2107 Back at flat finishing coke bought first night (finished rum yday as prob said).

G/J were having beer on square so I hastily went to join them and had one before joining them to go see the cock of the rock birds down by (as it turned out) the "beautiful sunset" place/yellow suspension bridge - I saw one from a distance (they had some binoculars so I could take a closer look) - then someone mentioned the rock garden and we went down there and it was open (15k) and you could see the birds right up close (I did have a quick look with binoculars but you hardly needed them). We didn't wander the gardens as I might have done on own to get value but still pretty cool and I wouldn't have seen this if hadn't met them.

They then went off for dinner and I suggested we meet at El Ganadero after. I went and had a one-size-up-from-personal pizza (carne this time) for 28k plus 6k for jugo de lulo en leche and 3k (lack of change) tip (prob not expected to tip, no jar, but who knows), came back and had a shower. I then went and got myself a raw carrot (bought yday), rinsed it in sink in my bathroom, and slipped over barefoot on the slippery tiles before I could get back to the bed and sit down. Horrified. I have a nastyish long scrape down my left arm and also a separate skinned patch nearer elbow, I think the impact may have resulted in some bruising as it was hurting quite badly for at least half an hour and tho much better I can still feel it now when i think about it. I was obviously worried I'd broken it and was testing it to reassure myself. In hindsight a mildly stupid thing to do but otoh I was hardly off my face (two beers and I hadn't drunk for at least half an hour) and I was only walking around, maybe I just let my guard down, or maybe having something (even if just a carrot - which I did drop, but re-rinsed and ate anyway) in my hand made me less able to recover my balance. Time seemed to slow as I feel and I think I was thinking "oh shit" .

Anyway, did go and meet them at EG, they only had one beer, I had two. Amicable enough. Slim chance I will see them in Manizales (it may be too soon even if they do go there, and they may just pass through - they are heading somewhere south of Salento for some archaelogical ruins, having decided to ditch beach-y stuff when they were in Santa Marta, they flew to Medellin, booked without realising it a hotel in Parque Berrio - bad part of town at least at night - and only stayed one night and got the bus here today and are here for 2 prob extending to 3 nights) or some possibility in Bogota. Cool to see them again anyway and I wouldn't have seen the cocks of the rock (which are - not all over - an amazingly vibrant red) if I hadn't met them like this.

2156 I also have a scrape on right arm, tho this is less noticeable wrt pain.

Have 95% packed. Fingers crossed don't get up late and can check round unhurriedly. Accom said on WA I can just leave key in room door, so barring problems locking electronic street door I should be OK to leave when I want.

Let's bash out a bit more of the boat trip. After showering and not staying to play with the kids, we went out into the town again and a local dance school put on a display of dancing for us - someone has a video of this, but I didn't bother and I may try to download it but not done any of the other people's stuff yet - which was actually more enjoyable than I'd expected.

We then went to a local restaurant (and could buy drinks on a tab - I had a mojito 8%ish at iirc usd3) where we'd pre-ordered food at lunch, I had the fried chicken, which was OK if not amazing. There was a very nice bold little cat which kept coming up on the table, I had basically finished eating but it did come up on my knee and onto the table at one point and got the remains of my chicken in its mouth. Quite a few photos/videos of this, albeit prob poor.

We then went back to tourist accom and altho we'd been warned it was a 10pm curfew it turned out today was one of the days this just didn't apply after all. We had a "pub quiz" (three rounds, one on each of Panama, Colombia and San Blas islands) which went on til past 10pm. After that we were drinking including some of the Kuna guys and this is when I had that chat with the guy about smoking (in Spanish) and he was also telling us a different story of the three times chicha fuerte is made/drunk compared to earlier guide (first guy said birth, first period and then first period again but a bit later, this guy said iirc birth, first period and gah I've forgotten but maybe it was before fp and maybe after but it was "distinct" ) - I could understand his Spanish but Lane was with our small group at this point and translated for the others.

There was some "horse racing" (with cards) and people playing music on Spotify and esp as I'd been in bed prev night I made most of it while not getting insanely drunk - the beer ran out and I switched to water rather than rum - and altho people drifted off and I wasn't absolute last to bed I did go to bed iirc 130ish. Towards end of evening someone suggested jumping off the dock and we went out and someone was saying it was a bad idea and they were wasted and it was dangerous and I agreed but it did also seem kind of cool, and Lloyd, Michael (who was pretty drunk in a good way and was perhaps heart of party) and *maybe* Rob (Martin's friend) but far from sure right now of third guy did jump in. I was very slightly tempted, not exactly peer pressure, but it's not like I'm a great swimmer, I was wearing "normal" clothes not my daytime swimming gear and had phone in pocket and even if I'd undressed I could see my stuff falling off the dock and the moment passed - don't really regret this, though it might have been nice and sort of fear-facing if I had done it. We were nicely asked by Lane to turn the music down at maybe 1ish but not a big deal.

I didn't feel too bad the next morning. I happened to wake up iirc 645ish when we were supposed to get up at 7 - something like that - so I went and had a shower (ie poured water over myself using a bowl floating in the water bucket in toilet) to freshen up and then maybe went back to bed for 30 mins or however the timing worked.

Breakfast on day 4 was OK, fruit and muesli with greek yoghurt - something I eat rarely enough I *always* think it feels weird and vaguely disgusting (vs using milk) when I encounter it but I try it anyway and realise it's nice (and in this case at least wish I'd added more yoghurt). I could go on but that's us on to day 4 at least so I will stop here and move towards bed. I suspect I'm not going to sleep that well but fingers crossed. Not exactly looking forward to two buses etc tomorrow but fingers crossed will all be fine and it is also not exactly a "hard" day.

Bit sad to be leaving here and that trip is coming towards an end but a) it will also be nice to get back home and try to get on with my "normal" life and my ongoing goals and eat semi-sensibly and enjoy luxuries like practically free coffee ad lib just from walking into the kitchen etc etc b) I still have enough time I'm not actively thinking about getting back to Bogota/getting to the airport.

Oh, if I forget, Garry turned 65 last month and Joanie will be 60 this month.

I do still have the flat to myself btw.

FWIW the floss I brought out (99% sure it was new for the trip) from home ran out probably not last night but the night before - iirc I just had enough at the end of the reel to do my teeth the first night here. I have probably flossed pretty consistently once a day, not saying I've never missed but generally fairly good about this.

2239 Been idly skimming photos. Bed.

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