Quito, Friday

1230 Up rather shocklingly late at 12, will probably head out shortly. Tis OK. Lunch then will see about a ticket for that tourist bus and hopefully do El Panecillo or the Teleferiqo or ideally both.

1255 At Palacio De La Trucha. Mmm. I even asked them to leave the salad undressed (badly; I need to get the vocabulary for that). Hope this doesn't disappoint...

1316 Feh, salad is dressed, oh well, maybe just an oversight or maybe the poor vocabulary didn't help.

1329 Was still pretty good though.

1459 On Quito Bus Tour. Been told Teleferiqo takes 2.5-3h so best to do it earlier in day. Have splurged USD12 on tour anyway, hopefully will at least visit El Panecillo. We passed the Teleferiqo, announcement said you have to walk 200m up road to connect to free shuttle bus to main entrance. Frankly given the bus only runs once an hour so afterwards you'd have to wait ages for it then wait while it trundles round rest of circuit before you can get off in centre I rather incline to not using the tour bus tomorrow but risking taxis to/from Teleferiqo. If I'd managed to be up at 9 to do the tour I could prob have got better value and waiting up to an hour for the next bus after Teleferiqo would have been borderline tolerable but I didn't want to leave everything til tomorrow, it being my last day, so decided to get tour bus today even though a smidge late in day.

The tour commentary (recorded) is a bit vapid and also hard to follow but meh.

1732 At Texas Chicken, struggled bit to find restaurant. Fucking numb after sitting on open topped bus all that time. Quito in general seems a bit cold, I tend to wear my jacket in hotel room for eg. Fingers stiff, hope nothing serious, prob just cold. It's warm in here for a change!

1839 Woo. Netbook absolutely refuses to connect to hotel wifi even though it's working on my phone. Fuck knows.

2115 Feeling pretty shitty. Had argument with Mum earlier, can't fucking book hotel in Bogota with no wifi on laptop, read guide book for Bogota and you absolutely cannot take taxi in street, turns out Bogota has similar climate to here which is a bit grim, probably just cos I am feeling down the guide book is giving me a nasty "everyone else is going to have a great time but you can't" vibe.

Views from El Panecillo were v good tho we only had 20 mins there (naturally more like 25 or 30 by time the laggards turned up) and I wasn't in the mood to wait for the next bus in an hour so it was a bit rushed but OK. I didn't go up to the balcony round the statue as it looked like you had to pay and I didn't want to waste the time.

I need to go to an internet cafe tomorrow to do online check in and print off boarding pass. Bit worried I am going to be too short of time to do Teleferiqo and not super happy about transport to/from it, though not looked that up in guide book yet. If I can get up by 9 or 10 it's probably OK but still not great.

Not going out tonight, had pretty much decided that this morning but definitely not. Not in mood and also as per above need to be up early and I also intended to use tonight to sort out Bogota, though thanks to wifi problem that hasn't happened yet. Do wonder if netbook might be developing age-related unreliability, but can't really draw that conclusion yet.

2238 Took netbook out into 'wifi zone', made no difference. Used dog slow shared computer to book a hotel in Bogota; seems a bit pricey but I got something in Candelaria which I think is right in the middle of a nightlifey kind of area so that may help alleviate taxi shit at night - even if I buy a local SIM it's still an enormously faffy challenge trying to call a taxi.

2257 Woohoo. I didn't realise I was in Bogota 7 nights so I had to go back out and book an extra night. Could have been worse, I thought it was 6 nights but I'd got the dates offset (I had, but the other mistake turned it into a subset error) which could have been harder to resolve. Fortunately they had a room free the extra night, which was Sunday coming, ie the nearest.

Oh, and my flight leaves Quito 1118. You have to be there three hours early for an international flight. It's up to two hours travel to the airport. So I need to be getting a fucking taxi at 0618 on Sunday morning. Yay! The new airport here is fucking ridiculous. Bloody hell, Heathrow isn't that fucking hard to get to.

Still no fucking joy on netbook wifi. Seriously not happy about just about everything.

2357 Had shower, towel getting a bit manky, they haven't changed it or the bedclothes since I arrived. Anyway. Bed, fingers crossed can drag myself out of bed tomorrow. Frankly it's almost at the point now where I just want to be in the hotel in Bogota with tomorrow's double taxi trip to the Teleferiqo and early start and needing to get to internet cafe and then the day after's joyous trip to the airport out of the way. Uncertainty regarding my future back in UK also starting to jar. Feh.

Quito, Thursday night

2025 At Quito Pub Beer on Foch. Getting somewhat pricey half litre (3.75) of the artesanal 'beer rubia'. Got trolleybus, it did a U-turn three quarters of the way here, fortunately I had already decided showing off my phone was a lesser evil than missing my stop through not using GPS. The signage is truly abysmal. Got off, managed to get another bus the one stop further I needed.

Walked along Foch, quite busy and some cops and some acceptablish taxis and it's not too intimidating, if I hadn't been scared shitless I'd feel fine. There are some hostels on this road and I honestly think walking one block along this road would be OK, though of course I have no way to judge really. Not looking forward to getting taxi back. Woman on desk half implied I have to be back before 1 even tho it's 24h reception but in reality I doubt I am going to push it any further than midnight or so anyway.

This place not amazing but nowhere super appealing and given I'm on edge and also don't want to find myself drinking 330ml bottles I thought this place would do, there was a menu outside so I could check the prices (some officious waiter/bouncer 'helped' me but meh). I'm sat outside and there are a few people here and borderline OK pop-ish music playing.

2034 Oh, altho I am not sure it would have been great, I couldn't find the karaoke bar was in yday afternoon. I thought it was on Foch but if it was the road seemed to become v dead before I got there and I just wasn't desperate enough to seek it out if it meant leaving the relatively bustling centre bit.

2047 Bastille's song whose name escapes me ("And the wals kept tumbling down") playing. Is it "Pompeii"? Still, nice to hear it.

2058 That went down almost worryingly easily. Trying the 'beer roja' (the menu is in Spanish, but it says 'beer') now. No percentages given but am assuming 5% and not drinking so much if it's 6% will be a disaster.

2108 Some sort of remix/cover of "Safety Dance". Weird. Were "Men Without Hats" Australian or am I getting confused?

2110 Toto's "Africa". The music has definitely been drifting back in time, but meh, sort of cool.

2113 Remix of "Another Brick In The Wall Part 2". Cab driver was playing the original on the drive back from Pululhau or whatever it's called.

2123 Midnight Oil, err, "Beds are burning"? Am enjoying the music tho. It's a bit odd my affinity for 80s pop given I don't have massive personal associations with it.

2134 Err "I just can't seem to get enough of you" OMD??? Oh no, it's the Human League isn't it?

2145 Third beer, trying the negra. On bus to MdM earlier was an obviously tourist couple. Followed them from trolley to bus to MdM at Owhatsit. I hope, but probably incorrectly, I am not so obviously touristy. When they spoke at Owhatsit realised they were Brits. They stayed on bus too long as well and were with me at terminal; I possibly regarded their presence as sign all was well, foolishly, but I thought I had read to stay on to end too. They spoke some Spanish as evidenced by them speaking to driver at terminal when we stayed on too long. Wonder if it's necessary here? Didn't try to scrape aquaintance with them, not in mood.

Slade "Cum On Feel The Noize".

2148 Stones, "Satisfaction". Getting busier here. Most tables outside occupied. Few people inside when went for a slash but not many. Smidge nippy out here but with heat lamps and jacket on tis OK.

2152 Black beer is v flavoursome, perhaps not quite to my taste but still. Other two OK but bit nondescript. It is amazing how small the 500ml glass looks. (They may be fiddling me but I don't think so.)

2154 "Everything counts in large amounts", no idea who is by.

2157 Depeche Mode, "Enjoy The Silence". I realise normally these litanies of song are interrupted by a chance social encounter. I don't think that probable here. It's OK. It's only a week since the last one. Maybe it's the sweet brown-ish liquor but I am feeling fairly good. Still not super happy at prospect of return trip but still.

2211 It is quite cool being here in this 'happening' area. I do appreciate my caution with taxis etc and general security worries erode whatever 'cool traveller' status one can acquire in this modern 'everyone travels' era, but for all that I feel quite cool being here and I'm glad I came. I just hope I don't regret it later!

2222 "You shook me all night long" AC/DC?

2229 Fourth beer, another negra. Am thinking maybe five and leave midnight. If I do get mugged want to be mellow. ;-)

2249 Meant to observe earlier, chuffed didn't spunk USD35ish on tour. Had it been possible, would only have done Inti whatsit musem extra, and had I got up a couple of hours earlier could have done that today too (not that bothered, next time, will be returning for view of that crater sans fog)

2256 Some Hombres G song don't remember name of playing. Allows me to bask in my albeit weak knowledge of Spanish language pop.

2300 Survivor, "Eye Of The Tiger".

2312 Getting a fifth. May push it to a sixth but no more. Modulo mugging etc on way home will prob come out tomorrow.

2318 La Union, "Lobo hombre en Paris". Good song and always also reminds me of my first visit to Mexico, it being played on the stereo in the car I was being given a lift in from Leon airport to my family in Guanajuato when I spoke little Spanish beyond 'callate'. ;-) I already knew the song thanks to Z being of a certain age and it made me feel a little more at home.

2331 Hombres G, Venezia. Not heard this much Hombres G in a while.

2335 Hombres G fest continues. "Te quiero"

2338 Will get one more beer - and the bill - and hope I don't regret it.

2340 Got beer after visit to bog - been after every beer, partly as learned from bitter experience not to get caught short and partly cos it provides feedback on being drunk - but no bill. Does occur to me that notwithstanding the inconvenience of losing my so-odd-I-had-to-import-it-from-US phone and any psychological issues (which might be minor or huge), if I do get mugged I'd lose about eighty dollars and an approximately seventy quid phone, which while non-negligible is not much less than I probably spend on some (rare) nights out in the UK and c [got bill, 22.50 but seems to include service so no tip] modulo the hassle and psychological issues seems a ridiculously small potential loss to get worked up over. I've lost more lending money to "friends". But the psychological factors are hard to balance, and even were I an emotionless robot (as I am sure some of my friends suspect) the hassle of losing my phone has some monetary value. But still, unless I get express kidnapped - and the woman at reception seemed to say that only happens in Guayaquil, pace F&CO, and I genuinely have no cards on me tho I wouldn't enjoy the prospect of express kidnappers discovering that - it is almost rationally ridiculous to worry about it.

0004 Did feel waiter bit disappointed at lack of explicit tip, maybe my imagination but it was there on bill which was certainly more than 3x3.75 for all it tax-mangled complexity. Nearly finished this beer so fingers crossed. I draw hope from fact the whole area is as lively if not more so than earlier.

0030 Back at hotel. Got taxi and felt totally safe. Driver engaged me in minor chat, I was perhaps overly honest saying things like Quito was beautiful but I was scared about taxis. Meh, if he doesn't like honesty fuck him.

Quito, Thursday

1411 I'm in the northern hemisphere. Got up 11ish, left hotel 12ish, public transport to Mitad del Mundo and managed to miss stop despite something I read saying to stay on to terminal. On bus back now. GPS shows I am north of equator here.

1446 At lookout, there is nothing but fog. Woman at tourist office at MdM did say 'but it's cloudy' but I didn't realise it would just be a wall of fog. I asked about half an hour wait instead of 20 mins when getting taxi and I thought we agreed to leave it open (10 vs 12 dollars) but I think the cunt has driven off instead of waiting so what's the betting he comes back after half an hour.

At least I tried.

1455 In cab on way back. Driver has stopped for a minute to go get something at a shop. Fingers crossed 10 dollars will do it, was there for more like 10 mins.

1530 At Yaravi restaurant in Mitad del Mundo park. Bit pricey but meh. Walked round monument on 'equator', straddled the line but no photo taken. Planetarium (which costs extra) shut, insectarium (free) shut, meh. If I'd read guide book I would have seen there is a company doing hikes from here round the crater rim; as it happens of course nothing to see, so at worst I wasted ten dollars on the cab when they might have told me there'd be no view. Next time maybe. Went round a little exhibit of photos of mountains which was OK. Not v busy here and of course v overcast. Frankly whole thing seems a bit pointless but I guess I've kind of ticked it off and I'm not really actively annoyed, at least I made the effort to come and succeeded in that sense.

I didn't go in the ethnographic museum inside the monument; I wasn't that fussed and the idea of paying a further USD3 on top of the 3 I already paid to get in didn't appeal.

1604 I had the churrasco, which is basically lomo a lo pobre. Not v good really, least appetising fried eggs I have seen in a while, meat a bit tough but OKish, at least french fries were nice. Bill 13, I need to break a 20 but will probably make it 14.50 then wander round any free little buildings missed and try to get bus back. Will probably be dark when I arrive but prob be OK, if I consult GPS I prob don't have too far to walk when get off bus, and this has at least given me a chance to ride on the trolleybuses.

1941 Terrible time at La Ofelia, thought it would be easy since it's the trolleybus terminal but nooooo... After basically losing it I got a diesel bus back OK, had to fight to get off too. I travelled for free however as I am still not sure when I am supposed to have paid.

Spoke to oldish woman on reception when got back and going to get trolleybus up to Mariscal and cab with plaques and shit on the way back. Not thinking this is going to be great but I guess it has to be done. Not quite ready to leave yet but will send this now anyway.

Quito, Wednesday

1120 Got up about 11 which is bit weak but could be worse. Sufficiently cold and damp here clothes I washed night before last still damp despite being hung on washing line. Phone keeps freezing as I write this. Topping up charge as while is socket behind bed it's a bit awkward to use so I haven't been trying.

Blog entries perhaps been bit short lately but mainly because not even been trying to do anything outside in evening. Maybe Thu night onward I will.

1219 At Post Office (tiny one) in Pasaje Arzobispal, *not* where half a dozen websites said it was at Espejo 900something, had to ask a cop then a mall security guard to find it. Twelve fucking dollars to send four postcards!

Went in tour office next to hotel, I can buy tickets for the hop on hop off city bus tour outside Compania de Jesus, which is handy as prob go there anyway. Not sure if will do that today as already lost half day but prob will. I somehow doubt it is sunny and clear for views at 10am but not at 11 and am I really going to drag myself out of bed? Anyway, they do a tour to La Mitad del Muno (yay, fascinating) and Pwhatsit crater but it's USD70 solo and they were a bit fuzzy and shit about hooking me up with a group. Left email address and will try another tour operator after lunch.

1232 At El Palacio de las Truchas, getting trucha a la plancha with chips and (no diet soft drinks) a bottle of sparkling water, the latter being something of a rarity lately.

1309 OK, that was very good, whole trout so some bones but still. I ate some of the skin since it was grilled, never sure if that's OK but meh.

Place is in Flores. USD7.25, didn't tip as you pay at cash desk as often seems case here. Excellent value.

1356 OK, just been to the only other tour agent in old town listed in guide book (one went this morning is other). They have no organised tour either, but I can get a taxi out and back for USD35 or I can do it myself on public transport to Mitad del Mundo then get a taxi from there. Taxi would be 6 or 7 with waiting time, two buses (so four all in) about a dollar or two. I dunno. Might be cool but might be a stress. Also am I going to end up getting lost at the site Pwhatsit, which I can't pronounce. I am torn. I might see if walking over to Mariscal is an option (I am assuming it's safe during day) and talking to some tour agencies there would help. If I can get a tour for USD35ish plus 7ish entrances fees (per person fee at place this morning with 2 or more people) then it's a lot less stress plus I'd get to tick off Mitad del Mundo/Inti whatsit as a side bonus. On the other hand it would be pretty cool to do it myself. Guy said I can trust a taxi which has the video cameras etc, dunno if he meant here in Quito too, I didn't probe. All this is English BTW.

Guide book said Quito is easiest place in Ecuador to arrange tours. What a crock of shit. Basically the whole of today is going to be wasted trying to sort out a tour at this rate. Maybe I should just do it myself. I honestly don't give a shit about Mitad del Mundo (tho actually I could probably see that before getting bus back), it's not even on the fucking equator according to guide book, the experiments are bullshit (I already knew that, and if it's not really on the equator how could they work even if genuine?).

1506 In small deserted Quito Antiguo karaoke bar in Mariscal. Bars here but not the Banghlamphu-esque quality to the area I expected. Fairly quiet. (Guide book says not to walk round here at weekend when it's quiet IIRC. WTF, it's the main tourist area but it's dead at the weekend?) One tour agency closed, another only private tours. I think I'm going to chance it solo tomorrow. Come in here for beer. I do see from map and conversation had in tour agency hour or two ago the trolleybus runs up here from near my hotel. Dunno if that would be safe or useful to come back after night out. May chance street taxi with video cameras tomorrow night, I suppose in part doing it rarely is safer than doing it every night. Also frankly impossible to get true idea of risk from F&CO site. It mentions three specific cases over the last couple of years. I think it says 50k brits visit a year, in which case are the odds that low? And did they just get into unmarked cars? Without context it becomes meaningless. Like so much else it seems to be well-meaning but leave the risk dangling like a dangerous anti-carrot without really quantifying it properly. How likely is this risk compared to eg getting run over?

Walked over here. Not that far really, tho a street handily shut en route. Walked through some parks, fine during day. In other cities I just might walk it at night but here probably imprudent.

Got some sunburn on head.

1558 I think I might have another. The sun has actually come out outside. I'm oddly fed up, perhaps the tour shit or looming doubt re return to UK or nagging safety concerns, it's a bit late to do any museum/church tourism today and fuck it. The beer wasn't orgasmically satisfying, which is a mild surprise (if not an entirely unpleasant one) since I've not had a drop since Sunday and that was a microscopic 330ml (on the Henry Morgan) and it was Friday before that. I guess the fact it's not hot here is a contributing factor. I'll have another, just possibly a third, then walk back. I saw a shop with fruit nearby, I will get a couple of bananas at least.

A low droning reveals the karaoke is in the next room over. Definitely not my scene under these circumstances.

1616 Got second. A trip to bog reveals the other room is occupied exclusively by a couple sat at one of the tables singing. Feel oddly guilty about this second beer but fuck it, just fuck it.

1631 Rereading Bill Bryson's "Notes from a Sunburned Country" and the little details remind me I should maybe make more entries about such stuff. When I got this beer I went and paid at the bar, but the barmaid disappeared while I was sorting out my change to try to dispose of some shrapnel. When she reappeared she took my money but gave me no beer. Thinking she thoght I was paying for the last one I started to protest but she said it was already on the table. Odd. I'm pretty sure going to the bar was the expected thing to do.

1719 Third. Beer again carried to table for me, this time by a second barmaid. Taking my influence from both Bryson and the beer I am trying to find it charming that the bar struggles to find change for a 2.50 beer when paid for with a 5 note.

1904 Back at hotel. Walked. Starting to get dark as left and bars starting to show life, bit annoyed I couldn't stay but meh. Walked back, getting dark, bit nervous but in reality felt OK despite couple of detours down side streets due to that blocked off road. Wish I could get solid risk data on everything I worry about then I could tell myself not to be irrational when minor fears crop up. I mean, getting mugged not likely, chances of dying slimmer still and would my life really be more ruined having been mugged than being fearful in anticipation? Hard questions esp with no solid data.

1913 For record F&CO site says around 22.8k Brits visited Ecuador last year (most trouble free) not 50k, but earlier musings still stand.

Quito, Tuesday

1329 At some Chinese restaurant off Plaza del Teatro (I think that's what it's called), just went in small place on corner, sat at only free table, told I had to pay at counter, then by the time I did my table had gone so I just had to leave. It was only USD2 but still annoying. Good job I forgot to order a drink.

Little girl came up I thought she was selling crap so I ignored her. A woman then gave me the menu and I realised that was what the girl was offering. Oh well. She didn't say anything and so I assumed it was a portfolio of tat she was offering.

Went to Basilica del Voto Nacional this morning (oh, I left hotel about 1130, not great but could be worse), that was OK inside but going up the clock tower (one of them) and the other tower v cool, some v steep ladders up to the non-clock tower so moderately chuffed with myself. Good views though been v overcast all morning and spitting rain. The non-clock-tower access is via gift shop so if I hadn't been looking for it I'd have perhaps missed it.

1337 Tremendous difficulty with the order. Singapore noodles no problem but trying to get a diet/zero coke to go with it a bit fraught. Fingers crossed.

Found smal shop selling fruit on way over here from basilica, due to the usual washing problems I just got a couple of bananas, it's a start and may get chance to buy some fruit when I am on way back to hotel later.

I am kind of following the walking tour in the guide book in reverse, I did look at it last night and have a list of things I want to do but basilica was one of them and for first day didn't fancy dicking around with tours, also the opportunity to walk round a bit will help me get my bearings and see what's nearby.

Got diet coke, woohoo. Hope didn't come across as rude to waitress, I am possibly a bit surly after what happened at previous restaurant and the linguistic difficulty was annoying.

1402 Food OK if not great but absolutely nothing like I expected, and drenched in an excessive quantity of OK-but-not-in-these-volumes sauce. Feh.

1437 Lingered far too long reading on phone, let's pay up and go.

1655 At Bar Restaurant y Cafeteria El Cisne just off Plaza San Francisco. Been to Museo de la Ciudad which was OK but bit of a maze leading to much 'have I missed anything?', saw nearby steps up to El Panecillo which are too dangerous to use, Plaza Grande and Plaza San Francisco. Getting chicken and chips here, no diet soft drinks so having water, I see they do juices as well so if they have grapefruit juice as advertised I may get one of those as well. Back to hotel hopefully via fruit shop after this.

Quito, Monday

1626 Wifi doesn't work on my phone in the 'wifi zone' on the landing outside my room or down in reception. I asked the receptionist and she says it's working. I've rebooted my phone. Fuck knows. At least unlike my confusion in Tacna I am virtually certain this isn't wrong password. I asked the receptionist for it again for the third (ground floor) network.

Oh, and my Peruvian Claro SIM never gives me anything but 'emergency calls only' since I've been in Ecuador, so I can't use the otherwise useless credit on that to eke a text out to parents. Fucking shitty hotel wifi. Fucking rip off mobile companies ane their fucking global roaming scam.

1751 Been out for food and brief walk. Didn't go v far as bit edgy and it's not that far off dark and it's cold - I knew it was up in Andes so coolish and think guidebook even has a chart showing daily temp range 10-20C all year round but didn't expect it to be this cold (I exaggerate a little; it does seem cold even with jacket on but it's not freezing). It's also thoroughly overcast which adds to the cold feeling. Wifi still not working on phone anywhere, may lug laptop out to public area in a bit. At least tonight I can sketch out a rough itinerary, as is a lot to see both in and around Quito.

Found a Movistar shop and super helpful chap activated my SIM in another phone. I have received an activation SMS but attempt to SMS parents failed. Not fiddled too heavily, may do that tonight, I think bloke today said the SIM would come with credit but not sure, may look on web how to check balance.

Went for really quite pricey at USD8.25 'parrilla individual' at a fast-food style outlook Menestras del Negro in mini food court next to a KFC. Not bad though. Got to try what I think are menestras, fortunately served (unusually) in a bowl, they are a bit like spicy frijoles served in ultra-watery liquid. They are quite nice but they should be drained IMO, the liquid ruins the convenience and given they were in a bowl and I had no spoon I am not sure how you're supposed to consume the liquid.

Quito seems v attractive in parts esp with the multi-level construction (saw quite a bit from taxi) but right now it seems cold and a bit scary with the personal safety concerns.

1755 Fuck, forgot to buy any water. Do have maybe 300ml which I smuggled with me from Guayaquil and prob be enough but let's go out and see if there's a shop handy, I think there is.

1803 Yes, prob several options but there was a small bakery round the corner which had water. Was tempted to buy a croissant or bun or something but I'm not really hungry and I've been gorging a little bit the last few days anyway so didn't. Wasn't an enormous temptation. (Not to sound too self-denying virtuous, reluctantly or otherwise. If I'd really wanted one I think I would have. I mean, I've hardly been drinking anything and generally been fairly good with fruit and veg and (it does count for something) I am on holiday.)

1816 Guidebook says typically sunny in morning and rainy in afternoon here. March is also second wettest month. I maybe need to try to get up earlier then.

1833 Incidentally I am aware it's St Patrick's Day but not in the least interested in trying to go out on that account. Quite apart from the logistical difficulties, it's not as if I tend to go out for it in London. Not really in the mood to desperately try to scrape aquaintance with fellow travellers even if this is an excuse for a party. Not *seen* anything about it, BTW, but it's on my phone calendar and I just scrolled past an Irish bar in guide book which prompted me to make this observation.

1852 Sat down in reception with laptop, wifi doesn't work here either. It must be both of my pieces of equipment which are faulty.

ISTR (when I had Desire Z) having this at one place in Thailand - people were sat using it in the cafe and I couldn't - but it either worked intermittently or some hack made it work on the phone. I can't remember, not sure it would help anyway. Here I haven't seen anyone else obviously using the wifi.

There is one shared PC on the landing outside my room but it's always in use, not that it's a good solution anyway. What a fucking crock of shit.

1903 Given up. Just maybe it will work later or the internet PC will be free. I can't believe both of my pieces of equipment are incapable of connecting when I sit right in the common areas. Maybe they are. But I don't think I've ever had permanent connection failure like that; in my room, yes, in public areas, no. I am not entirely convinced the router isn't hosed; OTOH the fact there are three networks and none work suggests otherwise. OT3H, I have not observed such use of a shared network PC for a while, which carries some slight suggestion of wifi fuckery to me, but then OT4H surely in that case receptionist would know. Fuck a doodle do.

1937 Mirabile dictu, both my phone and laptop just connected within thirty seconds of each other sat in my room. First thought was of course to shepherd out the emails from my outbox, then I am no longer desperate to use the internet PC (a faff requiring use of a printed backup GMail code or putting my UK SIM back in to receive the security code). So perhaps there was a glitch and it's now resolved. Still, make the most of it while I can.

Guayaquil-Quito

1037 In reception, they have called a taxi, coming in 5 mins. Bit tired and didn't want to get up, not too bad. Am a bit later than I'd like and cos I gorged on my 'travel peanuts' night before last and supermarket shut yday have no food, might get chance to eat at airport. Bit worried am running bit late but I don't think airport is that far away. Meh.

1044 Just hastily located hotel on OSM while sitting in reception, completely forgot to do it last night or immediately after booking.

1109 At airport (didn't leave hotel til some time after previous entry) in slightly pricey restaurant called Cajun; I expect food and an juice will weigh in about USD10 but that's not too insane. Taxi was 5, not sure I should have tipped but I made it 6. Still landside, but boarding pass says not due to present myself at airport til 12, it is v close to town so here v early, and I didn't want to make assumptions about food availability airside especially here in the domestic (part of the?) terminal.

1134 Bill 8.25, will make it 9 with tip. Food nothing stunning but not too pad and moderately healthy I think.

1145 Airside. Pretty unintrusive security, no need to take laptop or liquids out of bag (I am flying hand luggage only). Way early but better than being rushed. There is a small bar/cafe here but don't think I will indulge.

Guide book not super helpful re arrival in Quito as it predates the opening of the new airport in 2013. I don't remember any specific warnings about taxi scams at the airport so I guess I will just have to take a taxi from the airport rank and hope; it's one of those unavoidable risks. Given both lack of travel guide info and general other security concerns public transport is probably not prudent. I am at least arriving during daylight (deliberate, of course) and it will probably be OK.

Incidentally, the BA hotel emailed me offering an airport pickup for USD29. This seems insane but I need to check what it will cost to get my own. Since I am landing 8pm I am not inclined to faff with the no 8 bus as I have done (and would do again) if I were arriving in the morning. I also need to get to the airport to fly home of course. I suspect - based solely on not flipping out at the price when I flew back after my trip in 2012 - it's not mega expensive to get a cab and the hotel are milking it. On the other hand, since I am (probably) not hailing a cab on the street if the hotel want to do the same milking on the trip to the airport after I check out not much I can do. Definitely need to read up on this; no *immediate* rush but best not to leave it to last minute.

FWIW airport all very slick and modern and not crowded; there were two parallel scanning lines at security and I didn't have to queue at all. Nearly every flight is to Quito, a couple to San Cristobal and Cuenca.

1316 On plane.

I accidentally brought a bottle of water on with me. The horror! No one stopped me. I'm sitting here shaking now in case someone blows the plane up.

1420 Landed. Seems a bit silly to have taken such a short flight. But let's see how I feel when I get to hotel. At risk of jinxing things I am also tempted to say 'wow, that was all so easy'.

1551 At the hotel. That was easy but expensive. Took a while to get off plane. Went to shuttle desk but no shuttle, so I had to get a prepay taxi for USD26. To be fair it is fucking miles (some quite nice views). Taxi driver spoke to me a tiny bit, he said something about a volcano which is erupting two hours from here which you can visit.

On up side this hotel (unlike one in Guayaquil) said if I didn't want a receipt I didn't have to pay the 10% and 12% surcharges on the booking.com price, so I've 'saved' USD40 compared to what I expected to pay.

Woman on desk essentially refused to accept my passport for safe keeping, she said it would be safe in my room. I didn't insist but not super happy.

1558 Yay. Both wifi networks at the hotel show super strong signal and then don't work. It's not the password as I just deliberately got it wrong and it outright fails instead of hanging on getting an IP address. The netbook doesn't work either - at Guayaquil hotel (Re Bed & Breakfast, BTW) the phone was super unreliable but the netbook connected well.

Not very happy. Even if it were medically advisable I can't go out at night much if at all here because of the fucking safety concerns, and it's not going to be much fun staying in without a fucking internet connection. Really sick of cunts lying about this on booking.com property details.

As read on tripadvisor rooms open onto central stairwell and I can hear two Dutch SYTs (they are speaking in English, maybe I am wrong or they are not both Dutch, still, not impossible I guess) chatting on the ground floor. Not an enormous problem and I haven't tried shutting the windows.

The room is fairly nice if slightly dingy, but I can forgive a lot if the wifi works and on the flip side the fact the wifi doesn't work takes a lot of the gloss off. Yes, I can presumably go sit out in the corridor, wow. Great for Skype! It is fairly cheap all the same.