Sat 3rd 1915 At table outside. Warm night.
Not a bad day of touristing but I am vaguely discombobulated. Got beer. Let's crack it open and maybe resume this in a minute.
I still can't understand the guy in the minimarket but I think 355ml cans of Balboa are under USD1.
Slept not too badly although had these very weird pseudo-dreams about being new at uni again and living some vaguely Brideshead revisited (non)fantasy.
Didn't want to get up but made myself. This two night stay is a little "unsettled" but despite feeling vaguely tempted I really don't want to extend, better to push through the unsettledness, not waste time and remember if I want more time in PC I am back here pre-boat. Looks like there is actually free coffee most of the day.
Anyway, had some free black tea and coffee and read guide book a bit. Will summarise this onward plan stuff later.
Left hostel 11, did a serpentineish walk of about 3h (prob 4h out, but guessing 3h walking). Went in a few places and asked about SIMs - I had had a quick look on web earlier but naturally it didn't marry up to reality. Long story short I found one shop where I could actually go inside - there is a Dutch guy talking about smoking over by pool and the accent is just making me thing of Rob V - and not talk to someone through a sheet of perspex. Fairly genuine seeming youngish woman helped me set up a +movil SIM which came in about USD19 and is notionally 30 day validity with unlimited data. Incidentally saw a sign somewhere else saying all mobiles must be registered, which is one reason I really wanted someone to help me do it (eg in case it suddenly demanded a Panamanian ID number partway through) - and although forced registration is AFAICS widely demanded now, I am not at all surprised Panama demands it given the immigration process.
I asked about checking credit via an app or something and she showed me to dial a * (USSD?) code which promptly popped up in Spanish a message about unlimited not being active. I politely queried this and she assured me it was OK and pointed at a text message which (and I did query this too) *did* say expiry in a month of data "to share", but did not saying anything about unlimited or a quantity of data.
I have subsequently played around with some * codes and downloaded the utterly pointless +movil app (which appears to only let you to up not see what your account has already) and I have seen an utterly contradictory expiry date in a few days and I have no idea at all if I really do have unlimited 30 days data or if it may crap out unexpectedly in say 5 days' time.
FWLittleIW, as I say, she seemed honest. But for example there may have been a glitch during setup which would have left the shop out of pocket if she'd fixed it so she just decided to wing it. Or maybe it's fine - mobile tariffs *are* confusing. I am mildly annoyed but while I did keep getting recurring thoughts about it a) it may be OK b) I *did* ask, politely, to clarify this as much as I could short of insisting I was being ripped off and making a fuss, and bear in mind it *may* actually be OK, so I am not beating myself up for being shy/reticent/unwilling to ask questions - the reality is if I did get ripped off it's probably about USD15 worth tops (I clearly have got *something* as mobile data was working) and I did everything reasonably in my power to prevent it, this sort of thing is bound to happen (but may not have happened here) when you're a tourist and just need to take it in stride.
1928 Finger break.
I am in private room 11 BTW, just for reference and to see if I get same room when I am here next. There do seem to be a fair few guests and also more staff than I originally expected.
1930 I ended up over by the coast and went to the mirador al pacifico on map and walked along the coast. Family asked me to take their photo at one point.
Went to Rey supermarket and got sunblock, toothpaste, razors and some water to drink there and then. (The only repellent they had was aerosols - as another chemist I went in only had - or some pathetic 7% DEET.) Intriguing little incident where a presumably local guy looking at the deodorants next to me held a tiny can, said something like (in Spanish) "it's practically empty" and we had a little "would you believe it" laugh as he gave it me to feel just how light it was.
Had half chicken, patacones and a can of coke at Asados Victoria next door. Linguistic difficulties over the drink (and I was billed for 500ml but only got a 330ml can) but at USD6.25 or so it wasn't too big a deal. Food OK though chicken was practically room temp. I ate in in the next door "eat in" area with seriously fierce aircon, which was welcome if a bit OTT and made it feel painfully but pleasantly warm when I left.
Didn't really feel unsafe at any point, was a tiny bit cautious but no big deal. Few homeless around but no one even tried to hassle me.
Came back to hostel, was looking at accom and guide book on phone and getting a bit worked up (not visibly). Guy came and sat at table and didn't speak and I felt a bit awkward, but some time later he said hi (and yes I could have done this earlier myself etc etc) and we had quite a long chat - he did most of the talking but that was fine. He is a German guy (Munich?) just finishing up a 7 week trip through Jamaica/Miami/Guatemala/CR/Panama City and had some cool stories to tell me. He got "rush robbed" (my phrase) in Tamarindo at 6pm in busy street by a gang of four (no weapons, tho one big guy) but luckily they didn't get his phone as it was deep in his pocket, just a disposable lighter. Travelling light, sub 40 litre bag - though he got it for like USD15 on ebay and it is apparently falling apart by now after 7 weeks. Still, it is completely flexible so he has the advantage of me there with my internal frame.
I then went back to room and booked accom (some stress/confusion here) and had shower/shave/cleaned teeth, popped out to minimarket for 3 beers and some more water and then back to sit out here.
1937 Finger break and then let's write up onward plans/concerns.
Oh, I turned aircon up to 24 then 26 soon after going to bed. Obviously at home I'd be very happy sleeping in say 18-20C but I suppose I would have quilt not sheet. Also maybe just cos I'm not used to sleeping with aircon, even when the temperature is nice because of it there's something "odd" about the airflow (I think) which makes me not want it too cool at night.
I water-only washed today's top in shower. Uw actually more pressing but there is no way a wash of uw tonight would be dry to pack tomorrow. This is part of the problem with brief 2 night stops but just have to do the best I can.
Oh, and it did feel good to shave with a new razor. It's not the best shave ever (not that I ever feel I've shaved brilliantly however I do it, including electric at home) but definitely an improvement. I got a 3 pack for USD2-3 BTW, but my natural parsimony is likely to mean I continue mildly over-using each one.
The sunblock I got was about USD12 - FFS, it's raining (lightly) - for 180ml, it's kids' but who cares, SPF50 and it's reef safe and supposedly waterproof, so if it lasts long enough it should be usable on boat trip without anyone having a fit.
1947 OK, I've moved under cover. Incidentally going out to minimarket last night and tonight after dark may (not sure) be first times I have been out after dark on trip.
Looking at guide book earlier I was vaguely thinking (not looking up names now) of heading down onto the square-ish peninsula south-ish of Santiago, poss the west side (Sunset Coast IIRC). This all felt like a plan. The problem is that looking on booking.com there is very little accommodation at all and most of it (some towns do have cheap options) is eye wateringly expensive - thirty or forty quid a night dorm beds or worse. Even the guide book seems to list very few accom places in these areas in general and the prices seem high.
Long story short, I have booked a (cancel til 6pm on day of arrival for free) dorm bed for next 2 nights in Santiago. I would have booked 4 - given shortage of options chances of wanting to swap are slim, and there are prob decent day trips (San Francisco?) from there - but for whatever reason (and this confused me when trying to book, as this hostel I'd seen earlier disappeared, and it's the only cheap option in town really) there is availability every day this month except Tuesday night. This may be a random glitch ("oh, looks like we forgot to put that night on booking.com") or real. As it is I figured I'd better book the two nights and see what happens when I get there - worst case is I have to move on after two nights, which sucks but isn't terrible.
Santiago is a reasonable place to head down into that peninsula (esp west side) if I want to brave the prices or can find stuff when I'm less harried, and given probably most places are a two bus hop from Santiago given its somewhat off beaten track quality it feels better (esp when I'm new in country) not to be trying to get to tiny town X direct from Panama City. Santiago is also en route to the (I gather) more backpacker-friendly David/Boquete/Bocas del Toro region - I hadn't necessarily intended to go there but needs must etc and we'll see how it goes.
One of (10/10) reviews for Santiago hostel is possibly from Rosemary who I met in Uvita last year - the date is about right (she was going to David when I met her) and the photo (while small and with sunglasses on) is possibly her. So I just may drop her a WA tomorrow and see if it was her and ask if she has any recommendations. It's also vaguely possible I'll meet someone or there will be posters/ads for things at Santiago hostel. (The German guy - we didn't swap names BTW - had only been to PC in Panama so I wasn't able to pump him for info.)
For all I know it's possible there is non-booking.com accom (I did check hostelworld briefly and it'd even worse), maybe word of mouth stuff or maybe I will just eg see somewhere in Santiago.
I should at least be easily able to get metro down to Albrook tomorrow (fingers crossed Sun doesn't make a difference) and I understand basically all buses leave from there, so fingers crossed bus will be a non-issue. Apparently v frequent service to Santiago too.
I may end up popping down to eg Sunset coast for just a few nights in a single place, either becaue somewhere is cheap and doing some 2-3 bus (but not that long) hops to get there, or forcing myself to stomach a mildly insane price just for a few nights. We'll have to see how it goes. It is a shame I don't have a solid 3-4 nights locked in but can't be helped. As I said earlier, it feels a shame and annoyingly transitory to have been here for only one full day/two nights and to be having to leave tomorrow, but it probably is for the best in terms of making the most of my time, given I have been to PC before and can come here extra time pre boat if I want.
It was quite nice to be fairly leisurely and unpressuredly just wandering the streets earlier.
Jesus, I am feeling surprisingly sweaty and it feels surprisingly muggy. Maybe it will ease off later, bearing in mind it was 10pm-ish when I was out here last night.
Checkout is 11am but as long as you're out of your room it seems pretty relaxed. I do vaguely plan to be up 9ish, have free coffee (maybe not too much), pack and try to be off by 10-1030, maybe be at Albrook a bit after 11 and if the bus is about 4h will then prob arrive 3-4pmish and checkin is at 3 so that works out nicely.
Just finished beer. Maybe some water now.
It was hot and a bit sweaty walking round today but in a kind of "put up with it, it's fine" way not "omfg i am dying" way. And occasionally there would be a very welcome cool breeze etc.
I did see a couple of (not very heavily painted, mostly white but with IIRC a splash of colour/art) ex-US-schoolbus type buses on the roads today. But it does at least look as though the red devils have indeed been mostly retired. (Of course maybe this is in part due to me being in a part of the city I might not have been in in 2010. But I have also read about this being the case. I have a vague idea the phasing out of rds was on the cards even in 2010.)
FWIW there's a shop near hostel by minimarket which advertises photocopies, so if I don't get my passport stamp photocopied (as I intend to do) elsewhere in Panama I can prob get it done there last minute before trip. And of course there are loads of other places offering this kind of service.
I do intend to acquire boat trip supplies as I wander round. FWIW Rey did seem to be selling cheap (USD3ish) flip flop type things, I didn't look closely as I'd rather not be lugging some round for the next month (whether I need any for boat trip is borderline but maybe they would be good to have) but worth bearing in mind if I get desperate.
2016 Reading on phone. Prob go have piss and get second beer in a minute. A few people wandering round and some talking down by pool. I do feel slightly BNM but esp compared to how I'd probably have felt a few years ago also relatively relaxed sitting here in public part of hostel on my own.
2029 Got second beer. It is spitting v lightly but have come to sit out in fully open air again, it is maybe a smidge cooler here.
Group at bottom of garden by pool speaking German FWIW. Would not try and horn in even if they were speaking English tho.
2058 Conv at bottom has switched to English and I'm vaguely jealous but it's fine, no big deal. I feel slightly heavily but not unpleasantly drunk. Still drinking second beer. Take it easy and prob have third later then move towards bed.
Conv just stopped, dunno why, maybe they're going out or to bed. Reading "Grail Quest" (Bernard Cornwell) and while a tiny bit (hard to descibe) "bestsellerish" it is pretty good as a story and I am intrigued by Thomas finally meeting Sir Guillame after his daughter saves Thomas's life.
No, conv has resumed. Not sure about language now.
It is still warm and a bit muggy out. Not hugely so and it is vaguely tropically pleasant, but not exactly idyllic.
It's not absolutely ideal to be having beers tonight but it's fine.
2130 Third beer.
2134 Does annoy me that other people seem to just be able to chat to strangers. But meh, can't be helped and it is also the case that most places I have been so far there don't even appear to have been large groups of people meeting each other when I couldn't.
I should probably make more of an effort to speak to individuals. (Though again, it's not as if I've routinely been seeing individuals around in hostels - things have been very quiet, as I've observed before.) The group thing just eludes me; the idea that it's theoretically socially acceptable (and maybe it isn't) for me to somehow wander up to eg this group and join in feels insane.
2154 Yawning. About halfway through third beer. Feeling very slightly sorry for myself/lonely. Nothing major. Also feeling very slightly heavily drunk. Which is odd given I did eat quite a lot today and it's not like I didn't have a couple of beers yday without major noticeable effect and I started to feel slightly drunk before finishing second beer tonight. Meh, just like that sometimes I guess.
Don't feel terrible, just to be clear.
2201 I do (don't think this is *just* conv-related mood, but who knows) have mixed feelings about ongoing trip. I fear Panama - or at least the bits I am sort of intending to try, and I'm not too sure about David/Boquete/Bocas del Toro - is going to be expensive and/or lacking in accom and turn into a bit of a joyless expensive slog round over-fancy accom. But this is taking a negative view and things may well be fine. It would - notwithstanding dorm, but that's hardly terrible - be nice to feel I had a solid four nights booked in Santiago rather than remaining in rather vague pseudo-homelessness (not intending to be dramatic, just bad phrasing to capture the emotional discomfort of constantly moving round) but it maybe can't be helped and it may well be once I'm actually there it turns out there is no real impediment to staying four nights total, or (of course) it may actually work out for the best that I can only stay two nights.
And just FTR, while it's tempting to use my age as an excuse for social annoyances tonight, and I can't rule it out as a genuine factor, it's important to remember the larger issues (whatever precisely they are) would be present even if I were magically 25yo right now.
And trying to be optimistic, I do need to try to stretch my comfort zone playing to my relative strength, which is one-on-one conversation. And at least I am not hiding away as I would have been at one point - while I'd rather not be the passive recipient of social charity, this is still an improvement as I am at least present.
I am - and this is where the comfort-zone stretching comes in - hampered by a feeling I ought to avoid speaking to strangers in case they resent it, merely because they happened to come sit in a common area near me. I think I just have to experiment and fuck it. If I feel I'm not doing anything wrong, I can probably easily shrug off any "rejections" , but if I feel I'm being an intrusive arse any "rejections" are going to make me feel like an annoying arse.
There is and has been a faint tinge of what I think is dog urine in the air for the last hour or so - I suspect one of the (nice, quiet, likeable tho I haven't stroked them and they're not overtly affection seeking) hostel dogs pissed on the gravel near me earlier. But I stayed here as it's not *that* bad and it is - while still rather muggy, albeit with a background of crickets - nicer sitting out here than under the covered semi-outdoor area I briefly moved under during the rain. (Which disappeared almost as soon as I noted it being v light when I came out here.)
It is still a bit annoying to be moving on so soon, but whether or not I actually get to "settle" in Santiago for four nights or have to move on after two, really the sooner I move on the sooner I will get to somewhere I *do* get to settle, wherever and whenever that may be.
I don't know if it's "meant" to be there (and quite possibly it is) but I can't help observing a massive moral greyness over Grail Quest so far. Sir Simon isn't all that likeable, but if he'd only raped an uglier woman who didn't happen to attract the attention of the Prince he'd have been in clover and probably (given his newly aquired riches from plunder) ultimately held in high regard. Everyone's killing everyone else. Jeanette is a vaguely sympathetic character but her loyalties fluctuate with her own self interest and while I would probably do (analogous) things myself, that doesn't mean I consider her tremendously admirable. Everyone is (albeit broadly within the norms of their own society) happy to fuck over and exploit others insofar as they can - and again I'd probably do the same myself in the circumstances - and it's all very "realistic" (without getting into Tropic of Cancer levels of gritty grimness). The tone of the narrative is not overly preachy and this is what makes me think maybe this moral greyness is not just in my head - I think we're supposed to like Jeanette and dislike Sir Simon and I kind of do, but I don't think we're supposed to regard them as virtuous or evil characters who embody good or evil. Thomas does possibly appear to be intended as a "truly good" character, although I suppose he did kill that squire which is a dubious act even within the morality of the story.
2226 Finished beer. Let's at least go back to room, enjoy a bit of AC, then maybe move towards bed eventually.
FWIW if not already clear needing to move on after only two nights is sucky in part because it robs me of that vaguely chilled, relaxed "on holiday" feeling.
2231 Oooook. Just seen an e-mail from Santiago hostel asking me to complete a pre-check-in form. Err, I fucking booked via booking.com, why the fuck do I need to do this? It says it can be competed any time up to check in, so I think I am not going to comply and do it now. Push comes to shove I can do it in the hostel lobby before checking in, and if the threatened "delay" to my check in occurs, who gives a flying fuck? And I think there's at least a 50% chance they just look at my ID when I check in and I don't have to dick around filling this stupid web form in.
There isn't much cheap accom there but since the threatened worst case still allows me to fill it in just before check in and merely suffer delays I don't think this is worth worrying about. If asked I will just say I didn't see the e-mail as I had no internet.
But this leaves a bad taste in my mouth.
Sun 4th 0256 Stayed up too damn late in room. Bed.
Not a bad day of touristing but I am vaguely discombobulated. Got beer. Let's crack it open and maybe resume this in a minute.
I still can't understand the guy in the minimarket but I think 355ml cans of Balboa are under USD1.
Slept not too badly although had these very weird pseudo-dreams about being new at uni again and living some vaguely Brideshead revisited (non)fantasy.
Didn't want to get up but made myself. This two night stay is a little "unsettled" but despite feeling vaguely tempted I really don't want to extend, better to push through the unsettledness, not waste time and remember if I want more time in PC I am back here pre-boat. Looks like there is actually free coffee most of the day.
Anyway, had some free black tea and coffee and read guide book a bit. Will summarise this onward plan stuff later.
Left hostel 11, did a serpentineish walk of about 3h (prob 4h out, but guessing 3h walking). Went in a few places and asked about SIMs - I had had a quick look on web earlier but naturally it didn't marry up to reality. Long story short I found one shop where I could actually go inside - there is a Dutch guy talking about smoking over by pool and the accent is just making me thing of Rob V - and not talk to someone through a sheet of perspex. Fairly genuine seeming youngish woman helped me set up a +movil SIM which came in about USD19 and is notionally 30 day validity with unlimited data. Incidentally saw a sign somewhere else saying all mobiles must be registered, which is one reason I really wanted someone to help me do it (eg in case it suddenly demanded a Panamanian ID number partway through) - and although forced registration is AFAICS widely demanded now, I am not at all surprised Panama demands it given the immigration process.
I asked about checking credit via an app or something and she showed me to dial a * (USSD?) code which promptly popped up in Spanish a message about unlimited not being active. I politely queried this and she assured me it was OK and pointed at a text message which (and I did query this too) *did* say expiry in a month of data "to share", but did not saying anything about unlimited or a quantity of data.
I have subsequently played around with some * codes and downloaded the utterly pointless +movil app (which appears to only let you to up not see what your account has already) and I have seen an utterly contradictory expiry date in a few days and I have no idea at all if I really do have unlimited 30 days data or if it may crap out unexpectedly in say 5 days' time.
FWLittleIW, as I say, she seemed honest. But for example there may have been a glitch during setup which would have left the shop out of pocket if she'd fixed it so she just decided to wing it. Or maybe it's fine - mobile tariffs *are* confusing. I am mildly annoyed but while I did keep getting recurring thoughts about it a) it may be OK b) I *did* ask, politely, to clarify this as much as I could short of insisting I was being ripped off and making a fuss, and bear in mind it *may* actually be OK, so I am not beating myself up for being shy/reticent/unwilling to ask questions - the reality is if I did get ripped off it's probably about USD15 worth tops (I clearly have got *something* as mobile data was working) and I did everything reasonably in my power to prevent it, this sort of thing is bound to happen (but may not have happened here) when you're a tourist and just need to take it in stride.
1928 Finger break.
I am in private room 11 BTW, just for reference and to see if I get same room when I am here next. There do seem to be a fair few guests and also more staff than I originally expected.
1930 I ended up over by the coast and went to the mirador al pacifico on map and walked along the coast. Family asked me to take their photo at one point.
Went to Rey supermarket and got sunblock, toothpaste, razors and some water to drink there and then. (The only repellent they had was aerosols - as another chemist I went in only had - or some pathetic 7% DEET.) Intriguing little incident where a presumably local guy looking at the deodorants next to me held a tiny can, said something like (in Spanish) "it's practically empty" and we had a little "would you believe it" laugh as he gave it me to feel just how light it was.
Had half chicken, patacones and a can of coke at Asados Victoria next door. Linguistic difficulties over the drink (and I was billed for 500ml but only got a 330ml can) but at USD6.25 or so it wasn't too big a deal. Food OK though chicken was practically room temp. I ate in in the next door "eat in" area with seriously fierce aircon, which was welcome if a bit OTT and made it feel painfully but pleasantly warm when I left.
Didn't really feel unsafe at any point, was a tiny bit cautious but no big deal. Few homeless around but no one even tried to hassle me.
Came back to hostel, was looking at accom and guide book on phone and getting a bit worked up (not visibly). Guy came and sat at table and didn't speak and I felt a bit awkward, but some time later he said hi (and yes I could have done this earlier myself etc etc) and we had quite a long chat - he did most of the talking but that was fine. He is a German guy (Munich?) just finishing up a 7 week trip through Jamaica/Miami/Guatemala/CR/Panama City and had some cool stories to tell me. He got "rush robbed" (my phrase) in Tamarindo at 6pm in busy street by a gang of four (no weapons, tho one big guy) but luckily they didn't get his phone as it was deep in his pocket, just a disposable lighter. Travelling light, sub 40 litre bag - though he got it for like USD15 on ebay and it is apparently falling apart by now after 7 weeks. Still, it is completely flexible so he has the advantage of me there with my internal frame.
I then went back to room and booked accom (some stress/confusion here) and had shower/shave/cleaned teeth, popped out to minimarket for 3 beers and some more water and then back to sit out here.
1937 Finger break and then let's write up onward plans/concerns.
Oh, I turned aircon up to 24 then 26 soon after going to bed. Obviously at home I'd be very happy sleeping in say 18-20C but I suppose I would have quilt not sheet. Also maybe just cos I'm not used to sleeping with aircon, even when the temperature is nice because of it there's something "odd" about the airflow (I think) which makes me not want it too cool at night.
I water-only washed today's top in shower. Uw actually more pressing but there is no way a wash of uw tonight would be dry to pack tomorrow. This is part of the problem with brief 2 night stops but just have to do the best I can.
Oh, and it did feel good to shave with a new razor. It's not the best shave ever (not that I ever feel I've shaved brilliantly however I do it, including electric at home) but definitely an improvement. I got a 3 pack for USD2-3 BTW, but my natural parsimony is likely to mean I continue mildly over-using each one.
The sunblock I got was about USD12 - FFS, it's raining (lightly) - for 180ml, it's kids' but who cares, SPF50 and it's reef safe and supposedly waterproof, so if it lasts long enough it should be usable on boat trip without anyone having a fit.
1947 OK, I've moved under cover. Incidentally going out to minimarket last night and tonight after dark may (not sure) be first times I have been out after dark on trip.
Looking at guide book earlier I was vaguely thinking (not looking up names now) of heading down onto the square-ish peninsula south-ish of Santiago, poss the west side (Sunset Coast IIRC). This all felt like a plan. The problem is that looking on booking.com there is very little accommodation at all and most of it (some towns do have cheap options) is eye wateringly expensive - thirty or forty quid a night dorm beds or worse. Even the guide book seems to list very few accom places in these areas in general and the prices seem high.
Long story short, I have booked a (cancel til 6pm on day of arrival for free) dorm bed for next 2 nights in Santiago. I would have booked 4 - given shortage of options chances of wanting to swap are slim, and there are prob decent day trips (San Francisco?) from there - but for whatever reason (and this confused me when trying to book, as this hostel I'd seen earlier disappeared, and it's the only cheap option in town really) there is availability every day this month except Tuesday night. This may be a random glitch ("oh, looks like we forgot to put that night on booking.com") or real. As it is I figured I'd better book the two nights and see what happens when I get there - worst case is I have to move on after two nights, which sucks but isn't terrible.
Santiago is a reasonable place to head down into that peninsula (esp west side) if I want to brave the prices or can find stuff when I'm less harried, and given probably most places are a two bus hop from Santiago given its somewhat off beaten track quality it feels better (esp when I'm new in country) not to be trying to get to tiny town X direct from Panama City. Santiago is also en route to the (I gather) more backpacker-friendly David/Boquete/Bocas del Toro region - I hadn't necessarily intended to go there but needs must etc and we'll see how it goes.
One of (10/10) reviews for Santiago hostel is possibly from Rosemary who I met in Uvita last year - the date is about right (she was going to David when I met her) and the photo (while small and with sunglasses on) is possibly her. So I just may drop her a WA tomorrow and see if it was her and ask if she has any recommendations. It's also vaguely possible I'll meet someone or there will be posters/ads for things at Santiago hostel. (The German guy - we didn't swap names BTW - had only been to PC in Panama so I wasn't able to pump him for info.)
For all I know it's possible there is non-booking.com accom (I did check hostelworld briefly and it'd even worse), maybe word of mouth stuff or maybe I will just eg see somewhere in Santiago.
I should at least be easily able to get metro down to Albrook tomorrow (fingers crossed Sun doesn't make a difference) and I understand basically all buses leave from there, so fingers crossed bus will be a non-issue. Apparently v frequent service to Santiago too.
I may end up popping down to eg Sunset coast for just a few nights in a single place, either becaue somewhere is cheap and doing some 2-3 bus (but not that long) hops to get there, or forcing myself to stomach a mildly insane price just for a few nights. We'll have to see how it goes. It is a shame I don't have a solid 3-4 nights locked in but can't be helped. As I said earlier, it feels a shame and annoyingly transitory to have been here for only one full day/two nights and to be having to leave tomorrow, but it probably is for the best in terms of making the most of my time, given I have been to PC before and can come here extra time pre boat if I want.
It was quite nice to be fairly leisurely and unpressuredly just wandering the streets earlier.
Jesus, I am feeling surprisingly sweaty and it feels surprisingly muggy. Maybe it will ease off later, bearing in mind it was 10pm-ish when I was out here last night.
Checkout is 11am but as long as you're out of your room it seems pretty relaxed. I do vaguely plan to be up 9ish, have free coffee (maybe not too much), pack and try to be off by 10-1030, maybe be at Albrook a bit after 11 and if the bus is about 4h will then prob arrive 3-4pmish and checkin is at 3 so that works out nicely.
Just finished beer. Maybe some water now.
It was hot and a bit sweaty walking round today but in a kind of "put up with it, it's fine" way not "omfg i am dying" way. And occasionally there would be a very welcome cool breeze etc.
I did see a couple of (not very heavily painted, mostly white but with IIRC a splash of colour/art) ex-US-schoolbus type buses on the roads today. But it does at least look as though the red devils have indeed been mostly retired. (Of course maybe this is in part due to me being in a part of the city I might not have been in in 2010. But I have also read about this being the case. I have a vague idea the phasing out of rds was on the cards even in 2010.)
FWIW there's a shop near hostel by minimarket which advertises photocopies, so if I don't get my passport stamp photocopied (as I intend to do) elsewhere in Panama I can prob get it done there last minute before trip. And of course there are loads of other places offering this kind of service.
I do intend to acquire boat trip supplies as I wander round. FWIW Rey did seem to be selling cheap (USD3ish) flip flop type things, I didn't look closely as I'd rather not be lugging some round for the next month (whether I need any for boat trip is borderline but maybe they would be good to have) but worth bearing in mind if I get desperate.
2016 Reading on phone. Prob go have piss and get second beer in a minute. A few people wandering round and some talking down by pool. I do feel slightly BNM but esp compared to how I'd probably have felt a few years ago also relatively relaxed sitting here in public part of hostel on my own.
2029 Got second beer. It is spitting v lightly but have come to sit out in fully open air again, it is maybe a smidge cooler here.
Group at bottom of garden by pool speaking German FWIW. Would not try and horn in even if they were speaking English tho.
2058 Conv at bottom has switched to English and I'm vaguely jealous but it's fine, no big deal. I feel slightly heavily but not unpleasantly drunk. Still drinking second beer. Take it easy and prob have third later then move towards bed.
Conv just stopped, dunno why, maybe they're going out or to bed. Reading "Grail Quest" (Bernard Cornwell) and while a tiny bit (hard to descibe) "bestsellerish" it is pretty good as a story and I am intrigued by Thomas finally meeting Sir Guillame after his daughter saves Thomas's life.
No, conv has resumed. Not sure about language now.
It is still warm and a bit muggy out. Not hugely so and it is vaguely tropically pleasant, but not exactly idyllic.
It's not absolutely ideal to be having beers tonight but it's fine.
2130 Third beer.
2134 Does annoy me that other people seem to just be able to chat to strangers. But meh, can't be helped and it is also the case that most places I have been so far there don't even appear to have been large groups of people meeting each other when I couldn't.
I should probably make more of an effort to speak to individuals. (Though again, it's not as if I've routinely been seeing individuals around in hostels - things have been very quiet, as I've observed before.) The group thing just eludes me; the idea that it's theoretically socially acceptable (and maybe it isn't) for me to somehow wander up to eg this group and join in feels insane.
2154 Yawning. About halfway through third beer. Feeling very slightly sorry for myself/lonely. Nothing major. Also feeling very slightly heavily drunk. Which is odd given I did eat quite a lot today and it's not like I didn't have a couple of beers yday without major noticeable effect and I started to feel slightly drunk before finishing second beer tonight. Meh, just like that sometimes I guess.
Don't feel terrible, just to be clear.
2201 I do (don't think this is *just* conv-related mood, but who knows) have mixed feelings about ongoing trip. I fear Panama - or at least the bits I am sort of intending to try, and I'm not too sure about David/Boquete/Bocas del Toro - is going to be expensive and/or lacking in accom and turn into a bit of a joyless expensive slog round over-fancy accom. But this is taking a negative view and things may well be fine. It would - notwithstanding dorm, but that's hardly terrible - be nice to feel I had a solid four nights booked in Santiago rather than remaining in rather vague pseudo-homelessness (not intending to be dramatic, just bad phrasing to capture the emotional discomfort of constantly moving round) but it maybe can't be helped and it may well be once I'm actually there it turns out there is no real impediment to staying four nights total, or (of course) it may actually work out for the best that I can only stay two nights.
And just FTR, while it's tempting to use my age as an excuse for social annoyances tonight, and I can't rule it out as a genuine factor, it's important to remember the larger issues (whatever precisely they are) would be present even if I were magically 25yo right now.
And trying to be optimistic, I do need to try to stretch my comfort zone playing to my relative strength, which is one-on-one conversation. And at least I am not hiding away as I would have been at one point - while I'd rather not be the passive recipient of social charity, this is still an improvement as I am at least present.
I am - and this is where the comfort-zone stretching comes in - hampered by a feeling I ought to avoid speaking to strangers in case they resent it, merely because they happened to come sit in a common area near me. I think I just have to experiment and fuck it. If I feel I'm not doing anything wrong, I can probably easily shrug off any "rejections" , but if I feel I'm being an intrusive arse any "rejections" are going to make me feel like an annoying arse.
There is and has been a faint tinge of what I think is dog urine in the air for the last hour or so - I suspect one of the (nice, quiet, likeable tho I haven't stroked them and they're not overtly affection seeking) hostel dogs pissed on the gravel near me earlier. But I stayed here as it's not *that* bad and it is - while still rather muggy, albeit with a background of crickets - nicer sitting out here than under the covered semi-outdoor area I briefly moved under during the rain. (Which disappeared almost as soon as I noted it being v light when I came out here.)
It is still a bit annoying to be moving on so soon, but whether or not I actually get to "settle" in Santiago for four nights or have to move on after two, really the sooner I move on the sooner I will get to somewhere I *do* get to settle, wherever and whenever that may be.
I don't know if it's "meant" to be there (and quite possibly it is) but I can't help observing a massive moral greyness over Grail Quest so far. Sir Simon isn't all that likeable, but if he'd only raped an uglier woman who didn't happen to attract the attention of the Prince he'd have been in clover and probably (given his newly aquired riches from plunder) ultimately held in high regard. Everyone's killing everyone else. Jeanette is a vaguely sympathetic character but her loyalties fluctuate with her own self interest and while I would probably do (analogous) things myself, that doesn't mean I consider her tremendously admirable. Everyone is (albeit broadly within the norms of their own society) happy to fuck over and exploit others insofar as they can - and again I'd probably do the same myself in the circumstances - and it's all very "realistic" (without getting into Tropic of Cancer levels of gritty grimness). The tone of the narrative is not overly preachy and this is what makes me think maybe this moral greyness is not just in my head - I think we're supposed to like Jeanette and dislike Sir Simon and I kind of do, but I don't think we're supposed to regard them as virtuous or evil characters who embody good or evil. Thomas does possibly appear to be intended as a "truly good" character, although I suppose he did kill that squire which is a dubious act even within the morality of the story.
2226 Finished beer. Let's at least go back to room, enjoy a bit of AC, then maybe move towards bed eventually.
FWIW if not already clear needing to move on after only two nights is sucky in part because it robs me of that vaguely chilled, relaxed "on holiday" feeling.
2231 Oooook. Just seen an e-mail from Santiago hostel asking me to complete a pre-check-in form. Err, I fucking booked via booking.com, why the fuck do I need to do this? It says it can be competed any time up to check in, so I think I am not going to comply and do it now. Push comes to shove I can do it in the hostel lobby before checking in, and if the threatened "delay" to my check in occurs, who gives a flying fuck? And I think there's at least a 50% chance they just look at my ID when I check in and I don't have to dick around filling this stupid web form in.
There isn't much cheap accom there but since the threatened worst case still allows me to fill it in just before check in and merely suffer delays I don't think this is worth worrying about. If asked I will just say I didn't see the e-mail as I had no internet.
But this leaves a bad taste in my mouth.
Sun 4th 0256 Stayed up too damn late in room. Bed.
No comments:
Post a Comment