Monday 28 November 2011

Santiago, Saturday

16:20 Been at apartment for last hour or two having the classic 3Ss. Come down to cafe/bar place just round the corner for bife a lo pobre and a diet coke (maybe a beer to follow).

Apart from having to borrow a pen from some airport employee to fill in the immigration forms, everything went smoothly. Landed more or less on time, withdrew cash at airport, got the bus over to Pajaritos metro station and then metro over to Pedro Valdivia (both on line 1). Simples.

Did have a small bit of trouble finding the building but I asked some people loitering on the corner nearby and they sorted me out.

Apartment is not bad though no key for room safe and no balcony, which is a shame as I am on the 14th floor so view probably good, plus I am a sucker for balconies anyway. They start the numbering at 1 here, so that would be 13th floor in the UK. (They do have a floor 13, they didn't skip it.) Definitely not as nice in itself as the Inmoba ones I've stayed in, but it is a bit cheaper and it's a slightly different location which adds variety.

This place might be called Kika but not sure.

It's hot and I'm sat outside. Sun is a little in my eyes but not too bad. Whinge whinge. :-)

16:47 I need to stop inhaling my food (I'm worse when I'm on my own, I think). Bife a lo pobre was enormous (and probably monstrously unhealthy, though I am trying not to worry about that) and although I sort of finished it, there are lots of little bits kicking around on the plate. Nothing fancy but nice. (Large medium steak, chips (well, fries), fried onions (not very crisp; I left most of them) and two fried eggs on top.)

Sun gone in which is also good, there's a warm breeze with a slight cool edge to it and the sun is no longer in my eyes. Need to relax a bit. Will get a beer and then maybe go for a wander.

Phone charged up pretty quick back at apartment; I forgot how much better a proper charger is than a USB cable plugged into a PC.

In my quest for compactness of luggage I brought only disposable razors with me. What with one thing and another I never got round to trying them at home. So my attempt back at the flat today lead to several small cuts and one relatively large one (small flap of skin hanging loose sort of thing). I hope the large one doesn't scar, but I'm sure it won't. And maybe if it does no one will dare fuck with me, I will look so hard.

I may buy a 'proper' wet razor somewhere rather than try the disposables again. I mainly didn't bring one because I was worried I'd be made to discard it at security and it would be annoying for something that expensive. I might give the disposables another shot though, now I know they somehow require more care than other wet razors. (Maybe there's no wire mesg guard over the blade?)

Half litre of Escudo is CLP1400 (plus tip of course), which is roughly two quid a pint (it's about CLP800 to the pound). It's 5.5% as well, a bit worryingly.

Forgot to say that the view flying over the Andes from the plane was pretty cool. Might have seen it before but even if so, it was still cool. Half wish I'd had my camera handy but no big deal. (A woman sat to my right did ask me to take some pictures for her with her camera.)

20:07 Well, I just walked a hell of a lot. All the way from that bar near the flat to Baquedano, past Ramon Corvalan, past Bellas Artes metro, round the Plaza de Armas and back via a different route. Quite cool, saw lots of familiar stuff, and also surprised to suddenly catch sight of the statue of the Virgin on the top of that big hill. Now in a small bar vaguely near Bellas Artes which is deserted but has a sort of 1940s vibe with the English language Sinatra-esque music.

20:45 Having one more here, then might go for a wander or might get Metro back to flat and come out later. But I will probably incline to the former. Just been and washed my hands and I feel amazingly better. I don't know if it's just been a bit warm (I saw 27C on a sign) or what, but they were starting to annoy me. Face still feels a bit raw from the shave earlier but you can't have everything. Actually a few people in here now, which is nice as I feel less conspicuous. CLP1300 for 355ml Tecate, really 1400 or 1500 with tip (I am paying as I go, partly cos I only intended to stay for one) but not insane. There is a weird appeal in the old-fashionedness of the place.

22:10 At Kiko Schopp (a fairly random choice) on Pio Nono. CLP1000 for half litre of Escudo, table service but I had to pay at the time so not sure how to tip. Feeling a bit of a lemon and also a little nervous - though not really sure why. Play it by ear I guess, the night is yet young and I'm pretty sober. Not going to force things though, if I've had enough in a couple of hours will go home.

The waiter couldn't understand me, even just ordering a beer. It's not that noisy (I am sat on street, like most people). He opened the menu and I had to point. Oh well.

I saw a poster earlier advertising a free festival of Chilean music in Parque O'Higgins tomorrow from 11 to 8. I might go, although I do need to do some planning and hostel booking tomorrow. That shouldn't take the whole day, of course, depending on when I get up. It doesn't sound massively fascinating but you never know and it would be a bit of a novelty.

Crossing the roads to get here at Baquedano Metro is the devil's own job. I was forced to retrace my steps at least once and it involves waiting for about half a dozen sets of traffic lights. At one point I was crossing on a green man and a taxi squealed to a halt as I was going across. As I observed before, it appears accepted for cars to turn into roads even with a green man. I just followed the crowds, unless they cut across on red. I'm sober but not in a rush and it just seemed a pointless risk as a tourist with 'drive on the left' no doubt deep in my subconscious.

There was a street dog sleeping in the road at one corner. I have to assume it's rare for cars to clip that corner but I was glad when that crossing turned green and I could get away before I witnessed the poor bugger getting run over.

Quite a few street dogs around but, as before, they generally seem inoffensive. A few have been barking tonight but usually with tails wagging, and there are plenty of people around so not too bothered.

Vaguely toyed with walking home at the end of tonight when I did the route in reverse earlier, but it's at least half an hour and while I suspect it would be perfectly safe, unless I am in a very specific state of mind where it seems desirable, I guess I want to get a taxi either because I'll be a bit drunk or I'll be calling it a night early and should get to bed ASAP to slightly improve my chances of getting up at a reasonable hour tomorrow.

Bar opposite does seem to have a drum kit set up on a small stage by its open window, which may offer the prospect of live music later.

22:55 Hmm, yes, some guys appear to be milling round the drum kit. I will probably have one more here anyway - I will be able to hear the music anyway, and it may not start for hours yet anyway, then perhaps wander over.

2305 I suppose I should also give myself some slack because, while jet lag isn't really an issue with a three hour time difference, it is still 2am already by my biological clock and I didn't sleep brilliantly last night (being on the plane and all). I may well be a night person but still.

Saw a poster for Roger Waters performing The Wall live here in March 2012 while on that road crossing epic earlier BTW.

Some guy has just sat down at the table right next to me, far too close for comfort, yet has said nothing. I am still inclined to have another drink here but it feels weird.

2322 Felt weird. Possibly a Douglas Adams biscuit story-esque situation as he said one word to me, maybe. Anyway, come across to - as it turns out - Crazy Bar - where the live music is. Nice table inside, bit loud and close to band who are doing a half decent cover of With Or Without You. Pricey - CLP2000 for small bottle of anything, I went for Austral - but WTF. Live music is good.

0025 Band taking a break. I'm no connosieur (nor can I spell it) but they seem pretty good. Mostly Spanish language rock I don't know but that's cool. Will definitely hang on for a bit. My table is in a corner so can only seat 1 which is good as I don't feel in the way. Just hope I don't lose it if I need to go for a slash... (And how does that work given I'm running a tab?)

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