Agra-Jaipur

1523 Oh, bought some biscuits at station. INR20 for a moderately sized packet. I even thought the guy said 40, what a super honest chap not to charge me more. They had some Nice on display but none accessible to purchase, so I got some butter cookies. I might get food given to me on train, but not counting on it or it being edible.

1608 On train. There was a platform change from 1-3. There are monkeys on the station, which seems a bit odd when there are only a few around town.

This train is quite nice, if not super plush, as expected for at Shatabdi (sp) train if remember guide book correctly. Big slightly sprawly Indian bloke next to me but tis OK. This is regular UK-style seating (I picked the cheaper CC class) not the sleeper accommodation of the train in. That was two tier a/c second class reserved; the carriage consisted to repeated groups each consisting of two parallel bunks and a bunk parallel to direction of travel at the 'foot' of the two parallel bunks, but set away to create an aisle, with the same pattern at around head-height for the upper bunks.

Fat bloke shows no sign of wanting to start a conversation so I will stick headphones in.

Oh, there were a few fair-sized rats on the tracks, but not that many and they didn't come on the platform. Not unattractive animals, viewed dispassionately. Loads of parks here have chipmunks, including Taj grounds. Lucky for them they have fluffy tails, I think.

I was listening a bit after writing down the observation and at least one of the Spanish-in-Hindi things sounds like 'por aca', to me. Only two (three?) syllables so hardly an amazing coincidence, but still.

1933 FFS. We pulled up at a huge deserted no sign board station 10-15 mins ago. Since then - unless it's all in my head - everyone seems to be in 'get off the train' mode even tho we're not due in til 1950 and it's making me feel jumpy.

2010 At hotel. Bit low budget but it's OK. Got prepay tuktuk - Jaipir Junction moderately toutfree, drivier accosted me politely outside and when I said I wanted prepay he escorted me to the (presumably not fake) booth. Paid 75 and gave him 20-30 tip. He wanted to offer me his services for local tourism, I took his card but though I didn't say anything he said 'you pay what you feel it's worth'; I suppose I might have called him (via Skype) but frankly I want a baseline figure to avoid any awkwardness, so I probably won't. He showed me a text from a UK number (which he was driving, of course) starting 'Mr Hisname, it's Mr Jon here. Thanks blah blah.' Would Mr Jon really refer to himself like that? I suppose he might as a joke, but I presume it's fake.

Had someone carry my bag up and a young kid tagged along. Gave the guy who carried bag a random selection of bills from my small note pocket, he can share with the kid if he wants. They came back to turn the TV on and give me a remote control, I didn't tip then. I hope this is just a 'see if we can get a second tip' thing, not that they are going to try and bill me for use of TV (why not just leave the remote control in the room?). Waiter chappy turned up with room service menu (which he *swapped* with the one already in the room? two-tier pricing or just stage business?) and asked if I wanted anything, I said no and didn't tip him. Different guy just brought my passport back, I tipped him - he drew a 50 by the looks of the note, if I have the colours right (I didn't get a good look), that is the largest I keep in there. This was all a bit cheeky but I don't want to get off on the wrong foot. I didn't tip (at all) at the hotel in Agra and having tipped for these 'services' of having my bag carried and my passport returned, I probably won't tip again here. If they clean the room (it's a padlock-on-the-door job, as was the Agra hotel, though it was just a bit more swish, so they may not unless I ask and if I am here three days I doubt I will) I may leave 100-200 for cleaner.

The area round hotel looks a tiny bit grotty but I did expect that from tripadvisor, also it doesn't look too bad. However, I am not going out tonight - I got a samosa and a cup of tea and a bottle of water and some snack biscuity things which I shoved in bag on train (chap came round for tips later, suspect he only did the tourists, I couldn't find a 50 so gave him 100, oh well) so I have those and I ate a bit on train and I have plenty of water and I had those biscuits at Agra and I had a full meal about 10am so as I say I'm going to stay in tonight, that will make two alcohol free days and I can maybe get an early night and check out the area tomorrow in daylight and see if I can find anywhere to eat etc.

Basically I am not putting myself under any pressure tomorrow. My time budget is not very precise yet, though I expect to firm it up over next day or two, but if it's not too foul here (guy at Agra hotel said it's very touty or words to that effect) I am happy to hang on for a fourth or even fifth night if tourism stuff warrants it, so I am not rushing myself tomorrow, relax, take it easy, try not to get up too late but equally don't have to be up and out by 10am, see if I can wander over to pink city on foot and maybe read the guidebook a bit over lunch or a beer in the evening or whatever.

Oh, I see - I think the kid carried it up, half wish I'd tipped him directly but fuck it - they've brought me a sort of plastic dispenser of cool (not that cold) water. I am slightly tempted in lieu of the warm water I have in my bag, but I'm not going to risk it. I assume it is potable but this is a fairly cheap hotel (2256ish for three nights including tax) even if it gets good reviews on tripadvisor and I'm not chancing it - I think bad water, not food, is the no 1 problem I've had in the past.