Jodhpur, Sunday

1128 Finally getting up. Been drowsing in a weird half-dream state for last couple of hours. FFS. Not an unpleasant dream as such but still uncomfortable. Will have my huge packet of crisps for breakfast then see about going down to the station.

1329 At station. Had trouble finding reservation office and cos it's Sun they shut at 1400 or actually 1345. Have got a ticket. Best class available was 'normal sleeper'; bit apprehensive but it is at least reserved seating which I gather is the most important thing. Only cost 170 which is way too cheap. Oh well. Probably be OK and if not will be an experience. I dunno if there is a better class but it's full; this is a 'mail express' and I don't think I've been on one of those before.

1452 At Jwhatsit (menu just gone) again. Having hugely lardy lunch. Lemon lassi (checked no tap water ice), beer, hot & sour soup, dal makhani, plain naan, veg rice. Wd some cash earlier, Lloyds PIN clearly gone for good. If I only had a working wifi connection I'd call to get a new one sent out so can get it at Xmas. Went to park but gates seemed shut, tho some people in there. Was going to go to govt museum but since couldn't get into park and guide book makes it sound shit anyway didn't bother. This would be a perfect opportunity to have a lazy day in my room, except the wifi doesn't work properly.

1643 Got bill, 584, not too bad when you consider I had a lemon tea as well. Bit bloated but going back to hotel now anyway. Will probably make it 700 with tip depending on how change comes back.

1919 Feeling a bit warm like I might be sick. Anyway, figured I go ask at desk about airconditioner not working. Chap came up and - I was watching - had to flick some kind of switch, presumably a fusey type arrangement, outside my room door to make it work. He then proceeded to show me how to use the TV, which I knew, hadn't asked and didn't care about. Whole thing felt a bit dismissive.

Hope I'm not ill. Could that lassi have been a bad idea? I'm probably just a bit stuffed after my large lunch or whatever. Not managed to persuade wifi to work long enough to book a hotel in Bikaner yet, though am managing some light surfing (static pages which load once are just about manageable). Have attempted to chart out a route from Bikaner to Amritsar but the maps in the guide book of the country as a whole are unreadable, Google Maps etc is out with the shitty wifi and ditto for the Indian Railways website. Anyway, booking Bikaner hotel is main thing. If I do book and them am sick and need to stick on here that will be a pisser but can't be helped.

Oh, I didn't tip the chap who came up for the aircon. He didn't blatantly expect it either. Had it not been for that breaker outside the room which I couldn't be expected to know about I might have done, but since it wasn't my fault...

2112 At hotel restaurant. Wasn't going to come but feeling healthy-ish and worried about train tomorrow a bit so probably best to have some food. Had to go sit on stairs with netbook to get hotel booked, yay. Will cache Bikaner map on phone while sat here if remember. Also need to just jot down brief notes on yesterday.

2118 Ordered aloo palak, on waiter's recommendation having a butter naan with it but not ordered any rice.

Anyway, yesterday. Went to fort, was going to walk but especially given lack of compass on phone and narrow winding streets got a tuktuk, which was about 100 and fine. Bit pricey to get in, worked out at 500 by the time you pay for a camera permit (and not that it actually matters, you are not allowed to make commercial use of your photos, which grates on my political preferences but wtf). That does include a free audio guide (I took my less valuable Lloyds debit card to hand in as a deposit, being forewarned by guide book - tho at Jantar Mantar other day in Jaipur they took a credit card sized laminated scan of my passport as 'deposit'... didn't try that here) which was very good, the fort is very impressive and it was a good tour, also nice views. If anything main non-price criticism would be once the audio tour ends and you wander through the shops strategically placed there it feels a bit like you're left to your own devices to find where to go - you can go up to the wall for nice views, I don't think I missed anything but not super clear.

Don't have guide book handy due to single app on screen at once so excuse not naming stuff properly. Left about 2-3pm. Was going to try to find the Jsomething monument nearby, en route saw signs to Rao Jodha (correct sp) rock garden which someone have me a leaflet for as entered fort too and decided to go there. Nearly didn't go in as looked a bit unclear if open, but someone waved me in. That was very good. 30 to go in, a chap called (sp) Denzel gave me a personal guided tour for maybe an hour. His enthusiasm made the strictly botanical stuff interesting and there were great views of the 'back side' of the fort and the attached reservoir. Tipped him 500, he was worth it and he didn't even push for a tip though obviously something was expected. He told me all sorts of stuff about the park and things. I was the first visitor that day.

Left about 430-5 and walked down into town. I did find the jwhatsit monument but it closed at 5 so couldn't go in, but went up onto a viewing platform nearby. Did then walk back down into town afterwards.

OK, perhaps a bit dry as a blog entry but at least now I've noted down what I did.

2145 Not sure that was meant to be a main dish, though it seemed priced like one, but anyway, I wasn't starving. Got a pair of spoons again but managed, spooned most of it onto naan. Was very good, though maybe I just missed potato. Anyway. Chap came over and started a slightly awkward conversation, turned out he was the cook.

2205 Bit weird, an (as it turned out) Thai chap wandering past table just had a bit of a chat with me. Wasn't sure if I should invite him to sit down but I think in part the last night thing put me off and the waiter arriving with the bill sort of broke off the conversation. He then came back to ask if I lived in London and if he could have my e-mail address as he might be going to London next year and might have some questions. Did find this slightly odd but I complied, it's not like my e-mail address is a major secret or as if I have to agree to meet him or anything. Seemed a nice enough chap, I just hope he didn't think I was too stand-offish, as I say I think mainly the fact I am leaving tomorrow made me reluctant. It's not as if I am exactly dashing back to the room to pack but still.

He did ask if I was scared to be here on my own. He said it was his fourth time here but he was a bit scared the first time. He said he was here on his own; kudos to him for speaking to me if nothing else.

Bill was 275 but made it 400, was a little bit hassled with this simultaneous conversation but that's OK.

In hindsight I probably was a bit stand-offish but I guess it came from having come here for very utilitarian 'I should eat because I have the train tomorrow' reasons rather than being open to conversational opportunities. Oh well, no real harm done. Next time I'll know better. Was a bit jealous at couple of traveller chaps managing to start a conversation while at that other restaurant at lunch, so you'd think I'd have the wit to take stuff chucked in my lap like that. As I keep saying, definitely was that 'got to go tomorrow' mood which is largely responsible.

As on previous nights there sound like distant train horns every now and then, though maybe it's just particularly insistent traffic horns and I'm getting confused.

0040 OK, finally going to bed.