Jodhpur-Bikaner

0919 On station. Had trouble getting to sleep last night, guts a tiny bit heavy, throat bit sore, coughing. Woke up feeling a bit better though not 100%. Alarm 8, snoozed til 820, checked out OK (paid this morning), got tuktuk outside (100), been here about 10-20 mins. Train may be running 10 mins late but not a huge deal.

Was at Hotel Haveli.

Hotel in Bikaner is right by the station, I hope I can find it without having to get a tuktuk. Still, at least barring massive delays on train it should be daylight when I get there.

0955 Train now due in 1010. Had a small (75g) packet of bourbons earlier.

1020 On train. It got put back to 1015 and then did turn up then. Coach is half empty, I sat on a bench 'near' my official seat and chap (non staff) waved me down, so I have a seat on one of the 'head' benches as I did on way into Jodhpur, at least until more people get on or staff cut up rough (which they probably won't).

This is very like A/C 2-tier, except it's not A/C - specifically it is two tier, whereas given existence of A/C 3-tier I had assumed it would be 3-tier. The seat numbers painted on walls imply it is 3-tier, but I see no way there could be bunks folded away. This is OK, as long as I can keep this seat. The lack of a/c is not a huge deal, there are fans, the windows open and it just isn't that hot (qv my lack of whinging about heat when out during the day); obviously at other times of year it might be more of an issue. It feels quite pleasant right now. It is just slightly tattier and dirtier than A/C 2-tier was but not massively so.

1028 Loads of people getting on now. Feel a bit awkward here but the carriage is still fairly empty. Fuck knows. As long as I have a seat - and since it's reserved I should - I don't care too much. I would be happier if we could pull out, though I assume we will stop in loads of places on the way where people might get in. Though probably most of them will be minorish places with relatively few passengers.

1031 Pulling out. A chap has sat opposite me (he is on his mobile) despite a whole bench being free, I hope he is just doing it for window access. Still, if he does want to talk to me no worries.

1058 Legs feeling oddly cramped, wish this bloke wasn't sat opposite me. Half tempted to move to another seat. It is 3-tier, the middle bunk turns into the back of the lower level bunk-cum-bench during the day. Though maybe at the head of each little group it is 2-tier, I can't see how there could be a middle bunk here. But I am keeping my eyes down/shut due to this bloke sitting opposite me.

Oh, he's just got up, probably only temporary.

1135 No, he's gone as have brief relay of other sitter-oppositers. Got a small cup of (white) tea from itinerant vendor; 10 rupees. Very strong and sweet with a slightly TCPish taste. OK though.

1323 Just had my first deformed beggar. Poor chap but I'm not giving him any money, I couldn't quite say why.

1406 How odd. I just had a couple of rather old ugly transvestites demand money, one even pulled my headphones out. Seemed to offer a hand, not sure if this was an invitation to dance. Anyway, they left me alone in the end.

1601 Wow, at hotel. We got in about 15 mins late. A chap met me on the footbridge (I hadn't asked for this) and gave me a lift on his motorbike to hotel, he also showed me to my room and refused a tip. Naturally was a bit surprised about all this but fortunately I didn't wave the chap away at the station and add rudeness. Restaurant opens at 6, he is bringing me a cup of tea. All seems a bit excessive but in a good way I guess.

A couple of youngish men seemed to be sitting unnecessarily 'around' me (given lots of space free) on the train but nothing happened; did wonder if they were either hoping to talk to me or mug me ;-), but neither seemed right.

Wifi even works, amazing.