Agra, Saturday

1023 Back at hotel. Alarm at 6, dragged myself out of bed for 605, left hotel about 635?, was entering Taj Mahal about 7 and left about 1015. Tuktuk driver outside hotel said he was waiting for me, I hope not, I didn't make any promises. I want to get food. Had 3x18g packets peanuts before leaving hotel but still.

1040 Back at place dined last night for lunch. Is indeed a nice view of Taj. I have arranged with the chap outside who the hotel recommended to ferry me round this afternoon, he said 550, frankly unless he really pisses me off I will play him 1k and I have a feeling he probably expects that. I said I wanted to get something to eat so am meeting him at 1145 outside hotel

Taj was very good. It did lack that 'OMFG WOW' factor, but otherwise absolutely lived up to the hype. Very cool to see it, cool to have been there early morning (it got *much* busier as time went on), very impressive building, grounds, everything. I was quite impressed by the restraint on the decoration - it is incredibly thorough etc, but the basic designs are repeated over and over again rather than shoving all sort of different complex beauty in your face all the time. Went through the mausoleum five times; first time a chap semi-accosted me and gave me a mini tour for few minutes, for which he accepted 100 without fuss. That was OK, he showed me the individual marble elements making up the flower designs with his torch, which was quite a cool effect. (Oh, it was 750 to get in. Sign said to turn mobiles off, so I probably could have taken mine, but no real loss.) It was quite cool verging on chilly earlier - I fortunately had the wit to wear my long-sleeved shirt, but still bit chilly - so in part my subsequent trips round the mausoleum were to enjoy the warmth of it, though also to see stuff without the guide distracting my attention. Was much much busier in there 9ish compared to 7ish.

Took insane amount of photos of course, have swapped to a fresh memory card for this afternoon just in case, though it was probably not more than half full. I did try to appreciate being there and not get too carried away with the photos. Still, I was there over three hours and I think I steeped myself pretty thoroughly in the place, the grounds, the view, the museum, everything.

1535 Tuktuk blew a tire as we were approaching err some little free ruinish place down by river, I have a photo of the name and information plate. Driver is fixing or has fixed but needs a few mins. A few kids hanging about talking to me so I felt just a smidge uncomfortable in there and hence didn't hang about.

1537 OK we're off.

1602 In park on riverbank opposite Taj, waiting for sunset. River very low so probably not great for reflections but still. Mercifully being left alone for now, and there seem to be a couple of armed soldiers just down the bank about 20m so fingers crossed is no risk of any violent crime.

Tuktuk drivers says he will take me to Fathebad Sikri (sp!) tomorrow for 900. Bit hacked off at him taking me to two shops this afternoon, but he does seem basically OK and hotel recommended him so presumably he is basically OK. I do wonder if 30km in a tuktuk is a bad idea, but it would be an experience and I would guess you'd be looking at no more than an hour, maybe an hour and a half if it's further away than I recall (might be 40km) tops, each way. Solves the problem I guess. Short of cash-not-stashed given I felt obliged to buy a slightly naff marble ornament for 430 at one shop he took me to, that plus not wanting to set silly expectations on tomorrow's tip incline me to pay the guy 800ish for today, assuming of course I have the change after all these entrance fees. I probably do.

Bit annoyed also he suggested only an hour at Agra Fort so I was haring round a bit, then we spent time on those shops and then we're still here pretty early, so even allowing for him to try to extract his commission I could easily have had 1.5 hours at AF. Oh well, I think I did see it all, just didn't have time to pay attention to guide book so wasn't sure what I was seeing a lot of time. Did have some v pushy guide try to offer his services as I went in; apart from trying not to give business to overly pushy fuckers, I half wish I had taken him up. OTOH, did I really need to know more than I could read, and he wanted 350 which would naturally have been 500 with tip. I mean, FFS, yes I am wealthy by average Indian standards, but three or four quid here there and everywhere soon adds up. I think Thailand was massively cheaper and less 'grasping', if you're looking for sheer value for money.

As this morning, frequent sounds of what I assume are train horns float through the air. A bit ago there was what I assume was a call to prayer from somewhere behind me.

Can see hordes of people at Taj, they are microscopic in comparison with it. Guide book was right in that it kind of shrugs off the crowds, although it was still better the early bit of this morning when it was quieter.

1614 Sun still rather high in sky. Tuktuk driver said earlier should be here about 1630. Still, I think it tends to go down quicker than you expect, also I have a cold bottle of water and as long as I don't get someone come up and start talking to me (touch wood) it's fairly pleasant here. Driver presumably is used to waiting and I guess that's what he's being paid for, probably comparing notes on today's tourist bounty with his driver mates.

1624 You do get a better view of the symmetry of the mosque and the visitors-thing-which-looks-like-the-mosque-but-can't-be-because-it-faces-the-wrong-way either side of the central mausoleum from this side.

1758 Back at hotel. Paid him 800 and he didn't seem too upset, I am nominally meeting him at 10 tomorrow to go out to FS. He says an hour each way, recommended two hours there but he said more was OK, so I asked for three. Will pay him 1500 (he quoted 900; I told him, truthfully, hotel said a taxi would be 1200) if no shit happens.

Was pretty cold on way back. Views of Taj at sunset OK but not in themselves spectacular, and they threw us out of the park about 1725 so it wasn't that dark. I suspect it would be more impressive if the river was full.

1923 At Stuff Maker restaurant, attached to my hotel (oooh, security breach there!). Asked, beer is 170 so getting bottle with food and may have a second. Food at other place OK but not amazing, and this morning's curry was not particularly warm (temperature). Can indeed see Taj silhouetted from here. Food here may not be any better but probably no worse, and the beer is cheaper. They wanted my room number for some unclear reason but I will try to get a receipt when I pay so there's no risk of it going on my bill as well.

Left camera battery charging, it was freshly charged a few days ago I think but today's photo orgy had it flashing down to low intermittently by time I came home. The master switch in the corridor turns off the electric socket as well - I checked - so I had to turn all the lights off manually and hope no one flicks the switch. (Also, the one socket anywhere near the bed seems shagged, so it's very awkward to charge my phone overnight.)

Should probably write a bit about today but maybe after food.

Wearing long-sleeved shirt over white T-shirt so hopefully won't be too cold. It's open air with the rooftop nature, and given guide book (plus my own instincts) about slightly unhygienic conditions in some restaurants here in Taj Ganj I don't want to go into some place not even mentioned in guide book just to be indoors. Feel OK at the moment.

I am the only person here.

1957 Food just about OK. Menu surprisingly sparse on curries. My chicken masala had the chicken on the bone, sigh, and admittedly partly  my fault for sitting here, since my plate is very poorly illuminated coaxing the meat off the bone was a bit dodgy. I think I prefer the other place to this, considering just the food and admittedly on the basis of one meal. Still, portion was OK and I do feel moderately full.

A few more people here now.

Oh, as we were all leaving that park at sunset I passed a group speaking in Spanish. Chuffed to understand what they said, but oddly none of them sounded like native Spanish speakers. I think there was an Indian and a woman who sounded like she might have been English. Maybe her boyfriend was Spanish and didn't speak English; I didn't hear him speak.

Oh 2, the Taj is not artificially iilluminated - as right now shows, guidebook also says so. Apparently near the full moon it is 'visible' at night.

2036 Here as at other place (name escapes me, hence the appellation) they seem to keep the beer in the cellar or something. It takes a million years to appear after you order it. (The guy also thought I said bill instead of beer the first time, but unanticipated arrival of bill cleared that up.) I half wonder if they pop out to a shop for it, given neither of the establishments lists it on the menu. Perhaps there is some minor illegality, on the lines of them not being licensed (to use UK terminology by analogy).

Feeling just the teeny tiniest bit cold. It's OK. Beer will warm me up and definitely not having more than this next one.

Can see quite a few stars overhead, it's clear, but too much light here to really get a good view.

2054 Orion is right in front of me not far off horizon, the belt nearly vertical. So I can now identify Aldebaran, Sirius must be below my horizon or drowned in its glare.

2109 The haunting strains of 'Gangnam Style' float on the air from some adjacent bar. Ah, the romance of India! :-)

2128 Got bill. 580, making it 750 and getting change from 2x500. Not really feeling like 3rd, given it's a bit chilly and no music here makes it a bit dead, not to mention being a bit restrained and wanting to be up if possible for breakfast before hopefully meeting that tuktuk driver at 10. (I don't know his name, and he doesn't know mine. I could ask, but I wouldn't back in the UK, so why would I here?)

2319 Can't remember what wrote earlier and not going back over it. FWIW, as memory has it, this afternoon the itinerary was:
- Agra Fort
- marble workshop (moderately interesting but felt compelled to purchase somewhat naff marble elephant for 430)
- some 'showroom' (which is mentioned in guide book as well presented but overpriced) where I pretended I might buy a carpet for the sake of an easy life
- the 'baby Taj'
- the free little ruin thing whose name I have on a photo
- the park to see sunset looking at Taj from other side of river